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Harpers  Stereotype  Edition. 

THE 

COOK'S    ORACLE; 

AND 

HOUSEKEEPER'S   MANUAL. 


for  (EooUerg, 


DIRECTIONS    FOR  CARVING. 

ALSO, 

THE    ART     OF    COMPOSir       THE    MOST    SIMPLE    AND    MOST    HIGHLIT    FINISHED 

BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  SOUPS,   SAUCES,   STORE   SAUCES,  AND  FLAVOURIN3 

ESSENCES  J  PASTRY,  PRESERVES,  PUDDINGS,  PICKLES,  &C. 

WITH 

1   COMPLETE    SYSTEM    OF    COOKERY 
FOR    CATHOLIC    FAMILIES. 

THE   QUANTITY  OF  EACH  ARTICLE  IS  ACCURATELY  STATED  BY   WEIGHT  AND 

MEASURE  J    BEING  THE   RESULT   OF   ACTUAL   EXPERIMENTS 

INSTITUTED   IN    THE    KITCHEN   OK 

WILLIAM   KITCHINER,  M.D. 
II 


ADAPTED    TO   TITE    AMERICAN    PUBLIC 
BY  A    MEDICAL    GENTLEMAN. 


*ROM   THE    L.VST   LONDON    EDITION'. 


rRLVTEJ}  BY  J.  b  J.  HARPER,  82  CLWF-ST. 

SOLD  BY  COLLINS  AND  HANNAY,  COLLINS  AND  CO.,  G.  AND  C.  AND  H.  CARVILL, 
WILLIAM  B.  GILLEY,  E.  BLISS,  O.  A.  ROORBACK,  WHITE,  GALLAHER,  AND  WHITE, 
.C.  S.  FRANCIS,  WILLIAM  BURGESS,  JR.,  AND  N.  B.  HOLMES  ; — PHILADELPHIA,  E.  L^ 
CAREY  AND  A.  HART,  AND  JOHN  GRIGG : — ALBANY,  0.  STEELE,  AND  W.  <;.  LITTLE. 

1830. 


SOUTHERN  DISTRICT  OF  NEW-YORK,  a. 

X»E  IT  REMEMBERED,  That  on  the  20th  day  of  November,  A.  D.  1829,  in  the  fifty-fourth  year  of 
t»  the  independence  of  the  United  States  of  America,  J.  &  J.  HARPER,  of  the  said  district,  have  depo- 
sited in  this  office  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right  whereof  they  claim  as  Proprietors,  in  the  words  fol- 
lowing, to  wit : 

"  The  Cook's  Oracle,  and  Housekeeper's  Manual.  Containing  Receipts  for  Cookery,  and  Directions  for 
Carving :  also  the  Art  of  Composing  the  most  simple  and  most  highly  finished  Broths,  Gravies,  Soups, 
Sauces.  Store  Sauces,  and  Flavouring  Essences ;  Pastry,  Preserves,  Puddings,  Pickles,  &c.  With  a  Com- 
plete System  of  Cookery  for  Catholic  Families.  The  Quantity  of  each  Article  is  accurately  stated  by 
Weight  and  Measure ;  being  the  Result  of  Actual  Experiments  instituted  in  the  Kitchen  of  William 
Kitchiner,  M.D.  Adapted  to  the  American  Public  by  a  Medical  Gentleman." 

In  conformity  to  the  Act  of  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled  "  An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of 
Learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies, 
during  the  time  therein  mentioned."  And  also  to  an  Act,  entitled  "  An  Act,  supplementary  to  an  Act. 
unfilled  an  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  Learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books, 
to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein  mentioned,  and  extending  the 
benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing,  engraving,  and  etching  historical  and  other  prints." 

FREDERICK  I.  BETTS, 
Clerk  of  the  Southern  District  of  Nav-York. 


TX7/7 
K 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


THE  publishers  have  now  the  pleasure  of  presenting 
to  the  American  public,  Dr.  Kitchiner's  justly  cele- 
brated work,  entitled  "  The  Cook's  Oracle,  and  House- 
keeper's Manual,"  with  numerous  and  valuable  im- 
provements, by  a  medical  gentleman  of  this  city. 

The  work  contains  a  store  of  valuable  information* 
which,  it  is  confidently  believed,  will  not  only  prove 
highly  advantageous  to  young  and  inexperienced  house- 
keepers, but  also  to  more  experienced  matrons — to  all, 
indeed,  who  are  desirous  of  enjoying,  in  the  highest 
degree,  the  good  things  which  Nature  has  so  abun- 
dantly bestowed  upon  us. 

The  "  Cook's  Oracle"  has  been  adjudged,  by  con- 
noisseurs in  this  country  and  in  Great  Britain,  to  con- 
tain the  best  possible  instructions  on  the  subject  of 
serving  up,  beautifully  and  economically,  the  produc- 
tions of  the  water,  land,  and  air,  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  render  them  most  pleasant  to  the  eye.  and  agreeable 
to  the  palate. 

Numerous  notices,  in  commendation  of  the  work, 
might  be  selected  from  respectable  European  journals : 
but  the  mere  fact,  that  within  twelve  years,  seventy 
thousand  copies  of  it  have  been  purchased  by  the  Eng- 
lish public,  is  sufficient  evidence  of  its  reception  and 
merits. 

NEW- YORK,  December.  1829. 


PREFACE 

TO 

THE    SEVENTH    EDITION. 


THE  whole  of  this  Work  has,  a  seventh  timet  been  care* 
fully  revised ;  but  this  last  time  I  have  found  little  to  add, 
and  little  to  alter. 

I  have  bestowed  as  much  attention  on  each  of  the  500 
receipts  as  if  the  whole  merit  of  the  book  was  to  be  esti- 
mated entirely  by  the  accuracy  of  my  detail  of  one  par- 
ticular process. 

The  increasing  demand  for  "  The  Cook's  Oracle,' '  amount- 
ing in  1824  to  the  extraordinary  number  of  upwards  of 
45,000,  has  been  stimulus  enough  to  excite  any  man  to 
submit  to  the  most  unremitting  study ;  and  the  Editor  has 
felt  it  as  an  imperative  duty  to  exert  himself  to  the  utmost 
to  render  "  The  Cook's  Oracle"  a  faithful  narrative  of -all 
that  is  known  of  the  various  subjects  it  professes  to  treat. 


PREFACE. 


AMONG  the  multitudes  of  causes  which  concur  to  impair 
health  and  produce  disease,  the  most  general  is  the 
improper  quality  of  our  food :  this  most  frequently  arises 
from  the  injudicious  manner  in  which  it  is  prepared :  yet 
strange,  "  passing  strange,"  this  is  the  only  one  for  which 
a  remedy  has  not  been  sought ;  few  persons  bestow  half  so 
much  attention  on  the  preservation  of  their  own  health,  as 
they  daily  devote  to  that  of  their  dogs  and  horses. 

The  observations  of  the  Guardians  of  Health  respecting 
regimen,  &c.  have  formed  no  more  than  a  catalogue  of 
those  articles  of  food,  which  they  have  considered  most 
proper  for  particular  constitutions. 

Some  medical  writers  have,  "  in  good  set  terms,"  warned 
us  against  the  pernicious  effects  of  improper  diet ;  but  not 
one  has  been  so  kind  as  to  take  the  trouble  to  direct  us  how 
to  prepare  food  properly ;  excepting  only  the  contributions 
of  Count  Rumford,  who  says,  in  pages  16  and  70  of  his 
tenth  Essay,  "however  low  and  vulgar  this  subject  has 
hitherto  generally  been  thought  to  be — in  what  Art  or 
Science  could  improvements  be  made  that  would  more  pow- 
erfully contribute  to  increase  the  comforts  and  enjoyments 
of  mankind?  Would  to  God !  that  I  could  fix  the  public- 
attention  to  this  subject!" 

The  Editor  has  endeavoured  to  write  the  following 
AS 


VI  PREFACE. 

receipts  so  plainly,  that  they  may  be  as  easily  understood 
in  the  kitchen  as  he  trusts  they  will  be  relished  in  the 
dining-room ;  and  has  been  more  ambitious  to  present  to 
the  Public  a  Work  which  will  contribute  to  the  daily  com- 
fort of  all,  than  to  seem  elaborately  scientific. 

The  practical  part  of  the  philosophy  of  the  kitchen  is  cer- 
tainly not  the  most  agreeable ;  gastrology  has  to  contend 
with  its  full  share  of  those  great  impediments  to  all  great 
improvements  in  scientific  pursuits ;  the  prejudices  of  the 
ignorant,  and  the  misrepresentations  of  the  envious. 

The  sagacity  to  comprehend  and  estimate  the  import- 
ance of  any  uncontemplated  improvement,  is  confined  to 
the  very  few  on  whom  nature  has  bestowed  a  sufficient 
degree  of  perfection  of  the  sense  which  is  to  measure  it ; — 
the  candour  to  make  a  fair  report  of  it,  is  still  more 
uncommon ;  and  the  kindness  to  encourage  it  cannot  often 
be  expected  from  those  whose  most  vital  interest  it  is  to 
prevent  the  developement  of  that  by  which  their  own 
importance,  perhaps  their  only  means  of  existence,  may  be 
for  ever  eclipsed :  so,  as  Pope  says,  how  many  are 

"  Condemn'd  in  business  or  in  arts  to  drudge, 
Without  a  rival,  or  without  a  judge : 
All  fear,  none  aid  you,  and  few  understand." 

Improvements  in  Agriculture  and  the  Breed  of  Cattle 
iiave  been  encouraged  by  premiums.  Those  who  have 
obtained  them,  have  been  hailed  as  benefactors  to  society ! 
but  the  Art  of  making  use  of  these  means  of  ameliorating 
Life  and  supporting  a  healthful  Existence — COOKERY — has 
been  neglected ! ! 

While  the  cultivators  of  the  raw  materials  are  distin 
guished  and  rewarded,  the  attempt  to  improve  the  pro- 


PREFACE.  VU 

cesses,  without  which  neither  vegetable  nor  animal  sub- 
stances are  fit  for  the  food  of  man  (astonishing  to  say),  has 
been  ridiculed,  as  unworthy  the  attention  of  a  rational 
being ! ! 

The  most  useful*  art — which  the  Editor  has  chosen  to 
endeavour  to  illustrate,  because  nobody  else  has,  and  be- 
cause he  knew  not  how  he  could  employ  some  leisure  hours 
more  beneficially  for  mankind,  than  to  teach  them  to  com- 
bine the  "utile"  with  the  "  dulce"  and  to  increase  their 
pleasures,  without  impairing  their  health,  or  impoverishing 
their  fortune,  has  been  for  many  years  his  favourite 
employment ;  and  "  THE  ART  OF  INVIGORATING  AND  PRO- 
LONGING LIFE  BY  FOOD,  &c.  &c."  and  this  Work,  have 
insensibly  become  repositories  for  whatever  observations  he 
has  made  which  he  thought  would  make  us  "  LIVE  HAPPY, 
AND  LIVE  LONG  ! ! !" 

The  Editor  has  considered  the  ART  of  COOKERY,  "not 
merely  as  a  mechanical  operation,  fit  only  for  working 
cooks,  but  as  the  Analeptic  part  of  the  Art  of  Physic. 

"  How  best  the  fickle  fabric  to  support 
Of  mortal  man ;  in  healthful  body  how 
A  healthful  mind  the  longest  to  maintain," 

(ARMSTRONG,) 

is  an  occupation  neither  unbecoming  nor  unworthy  philo- 
sophers of  the  highest  class :  such  only  can  comprehend  its 
importance  ;  which  amounts  to  no  less,  than  not  only  the 
enjoyment  of  the  present  moment,  but  the  more  precious 
advantage  of  improving  and  preserving  health,  and  pro- 
longing life,  which  depend  on  duly  replenishing  the  daily 

*  "The  only  test  of  the  utility  of  knowledge,  is  its  promoting  the  happiness  of 
mankind."— Dr.  Stark  on  Diet,  p.  90. 


VIII  PREFACE . 

waste  of  the  human  frame  with  materials  pregnant  with 
nutriment  and  easy  of  digestion. 

If  medicine  be  ranked  among  those  arts  which  dignify 
their  professors,  cookery  may  lay  claim  to  an  equal,  if  not 
a  superior,  distinction ;  to  prevent  diseases  is  surely  a  more 
advantageous  art  to  mankind  than  to  cure  them.  "  Phy- 
sicians should  be  good  cooks,  at  least  in  theory." — DB. 
MANDEVILLE  on  Hypochondriasis,  p.  316. 

The  learned  Dr.  ARBTJTHNOT  observes,  in  page  3  of  the 
preface  to  his  Essay  on  Aliment,  that  "the  choice  and 
measure  of  the  materials  of  which  our  body  is  composed, 
what  we  take  daily  by  pounds,  is  at  least  of  as  much 
importance  as  what  we  take  seldom,  and  only  by  grains 
and  spoonfuls." 

Those  in  whom  the  organ  of  taste  is  obtuse,  or  who  have 
been  brought  up  in  the  happy  habit  of  being  content  with 
humble  fare,  whose  health  is  so  firm,  that  it  needs  no  arti- 
ficial adjustment ;  who,  with  the  appetite  of  a  cormorant, 
have  the  digestion  of  an  ostrich,  and  eagerly  devour  what- 
ever is  set  before  them  without  asking  any  questions  about 
what  it  is,  or  how  it  has  been  prepared — may  perhaps 
imagine  that  the  Editor  has  sometimes  been  rather  over- 
much  refining  the  business  of  the  kitchen. 

"  Where  ignorance  is  bliss,  'tis  folly  to  be  wise." 

But  as  few  are  so  fortunate  as  to  be  trained  up  to  under- 
stand how  well  it  is  worth  their  while  to  cultivate  such 
habits  of  Spartan  forbearance,  we  cannot  perform  our  duty 
in  registering  wholesome  precepts,  in  a  higher  degree,  than 
by  disarming  luxury  of  its  sting,  and  making  the  refine- 
ments of  Modern  Cookery  minister  not  merely  to  sensual 


PREFACE.  IX 

gratification,  but  at  the  same  time  support  the  substantial 
excitement  of  "  mens  sana  in  corpore  sano." 

Delicate  and  nervous  invalids,  who  have  unfortunately 
a  sensitive  palate,  and  have  been  accustomed  to  a  luxurious 
variety  of  savoury  sauces,  and  highly  seasoned  viands ; 
those  who,  from  the  infirmity  of  age,  are  become  incapable 
of  correcting  habits  created  by  absurd  indulgence  in  youth, 
are  entitled  to  some  consideration ;  and,  for  their  sake,  the 
Elements  of  Opsology  are  explained  in  the  most  intelligent 
manner ;  and  I  have  assisted  the  memory  of  young  cooks, 
by  annexing  to  each  dish  the  various  sauces  which  usually 
accompany  it,  referring  to  their  numbers  in  the  work. 

Some  idle  idiots  have  remarked  to  the  Author,  that 
"  there  were  really  so  many  references  from  one  receipt  to 
another,  that  it  is  exceedingly  troublesome  indeed ;  they 
are  directed  sometimes  to  turn  to  half  a  dozen  numbers  :" 
this  is  quite  true.  If  the  Author  had  not  adopted  this  plan 
of  reference,  his  book,  to  be  equally  explicit,  must  have 
been  ten  times  as  big  ;  his  object  has  been  to  give  as  much 
information  as  possible  in  as  few  pages,  and  for  as  few 
pence,  as  possible. 

By  reducing  culinary  operations  to  something  like  a 
certainty,  invalids  will  no  longer  be  entirely  indebted  to 
chance,  whether  they  shall  recover  and  live  long,  and  com- 
fortably, or  speedily  die  of  starvation  in  the  midst  of  plenty. 

These  rules  and  orders  for  the  regulation  of  the  business 
of  the  kitchen  have  been  extremely  beneficial  to  the  Edi- 
tor's own  health  and  comfort.  He  hopes  they  will  be 
equally  so  to  others  :  they  will  help  those  who  enjoy  health 
to  preserve  it ;  teach  those  who  have  delicate  and  irritable 
stomachs  how  to  keep  them  in  good  temper ;  and,  with  a 


S.  PREFACE. 

little  discretion,  enable  them  to  indulge  occasionally,  not 
only  with  impunity,  but  with  advantage,  in  all  those  alimen- 
tary pleasures  which  a  rational  epicure  can  desire- 
There  is  no  question  more  frequently  asked,  or  which  a 
medical  man  finds  more  difficulty  in  answering,  to  the 
satisfaction  of  himself  and  his  patient,  than — What  do  you 
wish  me  to  eat  ? 

The  most  judicious  choice  of  aliment  will  avail  nothing, 
unless  the  culinary  preparation  of  it  be  equally  judicious. 
How  often  is  the  skill  of  a  pains-taking  physician  coun- 
teracted by  want  of  corresponding  attention  to  the  prepa- 
ration of  food  ;  and  the  poor  patient,  instead  of  deriving 
nourishment,  is  distressed  by  indigestion  ! 

PARMENTIER,  in  his  Code  Pharmaceutique,  has  given  a 
chapter  on  the  preparation  of  food  :  some  of  the  following 
receipts  are  offered  as  an  humble  attempt  to  form  a  sort 
of  Appendix  to  the  Pharmacopoeia,  and  like  pharmaceutio 
prescriptions,  they  are  precisely  adjusted  by  weight  and 
measure.  The  author  of  a  cookery  book,  first  published 
in  1824,  has  claimed  this  act  of  industry  of  mine  as  his 
own  original  invention  ;  the  only  notice  I  shall  take  of  his 
pretensions  is  to  say,  that  the  first  edition  of  "  The  Cook's 
Oracle'1''  appeared  in  1817. 

By  ordering  such  receipts  of  the  Cook's  Oracle  as 
appear  adapted  to  the  case,  the  recovery  of  the  patient  and 
the  credit  of  the  physician,  as  far  as  relates  to  the  adminis 
tration  of  aliment,  need  no  longer  depend  on  the  discretion 
of  the  cook.  For  instance:  Mutton  Broth,  No.  490,  or 
No.  564  ;  Toast  and  Water,  No.  463  ;  Water  Gruel,  No. 
572 ;  Beef  Tea,  No.  563 ;  and  Portable  Soup,  No.  252. 
This  concentrated  Essence  of  Meat  will  be  found  a  greai 


PREFACE.  XI 

acquisition  to  the  comfort  of  the  army,  the  navy,  the  tra- 
veller, and  the  invalid.  By  dissolving  half  an  ounce  of  it 
in  half  a  pint  of  hot  water,  you  have  in  a  few  minutes  half 
a  pint  of  good  Broth  for  three  halfpence.  The  utility  of 
such  accurate  and  precise  directions  for  preparing  food,  is 
to  travellers  incalculable  ;  for,  by  translating  the  receipt, 
any  person  may  prepare  what  is  desired  as  perfectly  as  a 
good  English  cook. 

He  has  also  circumstantially  detailed  the  easiest,  least 
expensive,  and  most  salubrious  methods  of  preparing  those 
highly  finished  soups,  sauces,  ragouts,  and  piquante  relishes, 
which  the  most  ingenious  "  officers  of  the  mouth"  have 
invented  for  the  amusement  of  thorough-bred  "grands 


It  has  been  his  aim  to  render  food  acceptable  to  the 
palate,  without  being  expensive  to  the  purse,  or  offensive 
to  the  stomach ;  nourishing  without  being  inflammatory, 
and  savoury  without  being  surfeiting;  constantly  endea- 
vouring to  hold  the  balance  equal,  between  the  agreeable 
and  the  wholesome,  the  epicure  and  the  economist. 

He  has  not  presumed  to  recommend  one  receipt  that  has 
not  been  previously  and  repeatedly  proved  in  his  own 
kitchen,  which  has  not  been  approved  by  the  most  accom- 
plished cooks  ;  and  has,  moreover,  been  eaten  with  unani- 
mous applause  by  a  Committee  of  Taste,  composed  of  some 
of  the  most  illustrious  gastropholists  of  this  luxurious 
metropolis. 

The  Editor  has  been  materially  assisted  by  Mr.  Henry 
Osborne,  the  excellent  cook  to  the  late  Sir  Joseph  Banks ; 
that  worthy  President  of  the  Royal  Society  was  so  sensible 
of  the  importance  of  the  subject  the  Editor  was  investi- 


Xii  PREFACE. 

gating,  that  he  sent  his  cook  to  assist  him  in  his  arduous 
task ;  and  many  of  the  receipts  in  this  edition  are  much 
improved  by  his  suggestions  and  corrections.  See  No.  560. 

This  is  the  only  English  Cookery  Book  which  has  been 
written  from  the  real  experiments  of  a  housekeeper  for  the 
benefit  of  housekeepers;  which  the  reader  will  soon  per- 
ceive by  the  minute  attention  that  has  been  employed  to 
elucidate  and  improve  the  Art  of  Plain  Cookery;  detailing 
many  particulars  and  precautions,  which  may  at  first  appear 
frivolous,  but  which  experience  will  prove  to  be  essential : 
to  teach  a  common  cook  how  to  provide,  and  to  prepare, 
common  food  so  frugally,  and  so  perfectly,  that  the  plain 
every-day  family  fare  of  the  most  economical  housekeeper, 
may,  with  scarcely  additional  expense,  or  any  additional 
trouble,  be  a  satisfactory  entertainment  for  an  epicure  or 
an  invalid. 

By  an  attentive  consideration  of  "the  Rudiments  of 
Cookery,"  and  the  respective  receipts,  the  most  ignorant 
novice  in  the  business  of  the  kitchen,  may  work  with  the 
utmost  facility  and  certainty  of  success,  and  soon  become 
a  good  cook. 

Will  all  the  other  books  of  cookery  that  ever  were 
printed  do  this  ?  To  give  his  readers  an  idea  of  the 
immense  labour  attendant  upon  this  Work,  it  may  be  only 
necessary  for  the  Author  to  state,  that  he  has  patiently 
pioneered  through  more  than  two  hundred  cookery  book* 
before  he  set  about  recording  these  results  of  his  own 
experiments  !  The  table  of  the  most  economical  family 
may,  by  the  help  of  this  book,  be  entertained  with  as  much 
elegance  as  that  of  a  sovereign  prince. 

LONDON,  1829. 


CONTENTS. 


PREFACE v 

to  Seventh  Edition iv 

INTRODUCTION  .    .    .    ; ;  15 

Culinary  Curiosities 32 

Invitations  to  Dinner 36 

Carving 43 

Friendly  Advice  to  Cooks 46 

Table  of  Weights,  &c. r    .    .  65 


RUDIMENTS   OP   COOKERY. 

CHAPTER  1.  Boiling 66 

Baking 72 

2.  Roasting 74 

3.  Frying .......  80 

4.  Broiling 82 

5.  Vegetables 83 

6.  Fish 86 

Fish  Sauces 88 

7.  Broths  and  Soups ?    .    .    89 

8.  Gravies  and  Sauces j 100 

9.  Made  Dishes  .    , T    .  106 

Receipts 108 

Marketing  Tables  .    .    .    .    » 355 


APPENDIX. 

Pastry,  Confectionary,  Preserves,  &c -..-..        .360 

Bread,  &c .    ,    .  390 

Observations  on  Puddings  and  Pies  ..;....  .    .  392 

Picklea 398 

Various  useful  Family  Receipts  .    .    * 405 

Observations  on  Carving 409 

Ihdex    ..........  421 


INTRODUCTION. 


THE  following  receipts  are  not  a  mere  marrowless  collec- 
tion of  shreds  and  patches,  and  cuttings  and  pastings,  but  a 
bona  fide  register  of  practical  facts, — accumulated  by  a  per- 
severance not  to  be  subdued  or  evaporated  by  the  igniferous 
terrors  of  a  roasting  fire  in  the  dog-days, — in  defiance  of  the 
odoriferous  and  calefacient  repellents  of  roasting,  boiling,  fry- 
ing, and  broiling; — moreover,  the  author  has  submitted  to 
a  labour  no  preceding'  cookery-book-maker,  perhaps,  ever 
attempted  to  encounter,— having  eaten  each  receipt  before 
he  set  it  down  in  his  book. 

They  have  all  been  heartily  welcomed  by  a  sufficiently 
well-educated  palate,  and  a  rather  fastidious  stomacli : — per- 
haps this  certificate  of  the  reception  of  the  respective  prepa- 
rations, will  partly  apologize  for  the  book  containing  a  smaller 
number  of  them  than  preceding  writers  on  this  gratifying 
subject  have  transcribed — for  the  amusement  of  "  every  man's 
master,"  the  STOMACH.* 

Numerous  as  are  the  receipts  in  former  books,  they  vary 
little  from  each  other,  except  in  the  name  given  to  them ;  the 
processes  of  cookery  are  very  few :  I  have  endeavoured  to 
describe  each,  in  so  plain  and  circumstantial  a  manner,  as  I 
hope  will  be  easily  understood,  even  by  the  amateur,  who  i* 
unacquainted  with  the  practical  part  of  culinary  concerns. 

OLD  HOUSEKEEPERS  may  think  I  have  been  tedioush 
minute  on  many  points  which  may  appear  trifling :  my  pre- 
decessors seem  to  have  considered  the  RUDIMENTS  of  COOKERY 
quite  unworthy  of  attention.  These  little  delicate  distinc- 
tions constitute  all  the  difference  between  a  common  and  an 
elegant  table,  and  are  not  trifles  to  the  YOUNG  HOUSEKEEPERS 
who  must  learn  them  either  from  the  communication  of  others 
or  blunder  on  till  their  own  slowly  accumulating  and  dear- 
bought  experience  teaches  them. 

*"The  STOMACH  is  the  grand  organ  of  the  human  system,  upon  the  state  of 
which  all  the  powers  and  feelings  of  the  individual  depend." — See  HUNTER'S  Ctt- 
lina,  p.  13. 

"  The  faculty  the  stomach  has  of  communicating  the  impressions  made  by  the 
various  substances  that  are  put  into  it,  is  such,  that  it  seems  more  like  a  nervous 
expansion  of  the  brain,  than  a  mere  receptacle  for  food."~Dr.  WA.TERHOUSE* 
J^clure  on  Health,  p.  4. 


16         *t  V  .V 

A- wish  iq  tetye-  tim$,  trouble;  and  money  to  inexperienced 
housekeepers:  and  cool^and,  to_ faring  the  enjoyments  and 
indulgences  of  the  opulent  within  reach  of  the  middle  ranks 
of  society,  were  my  motives  for  publishing  this  book.  I 
could  accomplish  it  only  by  supposing  the  reader  (when  he 
first  opens  it)  to  be  as  ignorant  of  cookery  as  I  was,  when 
I  first  thought  of  writing  on  the  subject. 

I  have  done  my  best  to  contribute  to  the  comfort  of  my 
fellow-creatures:  by  a  careful  attention  to  the  directions 
herein  given,  the  most  ignorant  may  easily  learn  to  prepare 
food,  not  only  in  an  agreeable  and  wholesome,  but  in  an  ele- 
gant and  economical  manner. 

This  task  seems  to  have  been  left  for  me ;  and  I  have  endea- 
voured to  collect  and  communicate,  in  the  clearest  and  most 
intelligible  manner,  the  whole  of  the  heretofore  abstruse 
mysteries  of  the  culinary  art,  which  are  herein,  I  hope,  so 
plainly  developed,  that  the  most  inexperienced  student  in  the 
occult  art  of  cookery,  may  work  from  my  receipts  with  the 
utmost  facility. 

I  was  perfectly  aware  of  the  extreme  difficulty  of  teaching 
those  who  are  entirely  unacquainted  with  the  subject,  and  of 
explaining  my  ideas  effectually,  by  mere  receipts,  to  those 
who  never  shook  hands  with  a  stewpan. 

In  my  anxiety  to  be  readily  understood,  I  have  been  under 
the  necessity  of  occasionally  repeating  the  same  directions 
in  different  parts  of  the  book ;  but  I  would  rather  be  censured 
for  repetition  than  for  obscurity,  and  hope  not  to  be  accused 
of  affectation,  while  my  intention  is  perspicuity. 

Our  neighbours  of  France  are  so  justly  famous  for  their 
skill  in  the  affairs  of  the  kitchen,  that  the  adage  says,  "  As 
many  Frenchmen  as  many  cooks :"  surrounded  as  they  are 
by  a  profusion  of  the  most  delicious  wines,  and  seducing- 
liqueurs  offering  every  temptation  to  render  drunkenness  de- 
lightful, yet  a  tippling  Frenchman  is  a  "  rara  avis." 

They  know  how  so  easily  to  keep  life  in  sufficient  repair 
by  good  eating,  that  they  require  little  or  no  screwing  up 
with  liquid  stimuli.  This  accounts  for  that  "  toujours  gaij* 
and  happy  equilibrium  of  the  animal  spirits  which  they  enjoy 
with  more  regularity  than  any  people :  their  elastic  stomachs, 
unimpaired  by  spirituous  liquors,  digest  vigorously  the  food 
they  sagaciously  prepare  and  render  easily  assimilable,  by 
cooking  it  sufficiently,— wisely  contriving  to  get  half  the 
$*ork  of  the  stomach  done  by  fire  and  water,  till 

"The  tender  morsels  on  the  palate  melt, 
And  all  the  force  of  cookery  is  felt 


INTRODUCTION.  17 

See  Nos.  5  and  238,  &c. 

The  cardinal  virtues  of  cookery,  "CLEANLINESS,  FRUGALITY, 
NOURISHMENT,  AND  PALATEABLENESS,"  preside  over  each  pre- 
paration ;  for  I  have  not  presumed  to  insert  a  single  compo- 
sition, without  previously  obtaining  the  "  imprimatur1''  of  an 
enlightened  and  indefatigable  "  COMMITTEE  OF  TASTE,"  (com- 
posed of  thorough-bred  GRANDS  GOURMANDS  of  the  first  mag- 
nitude,) whose  cordial  co-operation  I  cannot  too  highly 
praise ;  and  here  do  I  most  gratefully  record  the  unremitting 
zeal  they  manifested  during  their  arduous  progress  of  proving 
the  respective  recipes:  they  were  so  truly  philosophically 
and  disinterestedly  regardless  of  the  wear  and  tear  of  teeth 
and  stomach,  that  their  labour  appeared  a  pleasure  to  them. 
Their  laudable  perseverance  has  enabled  me  to  give  the  in- 
experienced amateur  an  unerring  guide  how  to  excite  as 
much  pleasure  as  possible  on  the  palate,  and  occasion  as 
little  trouble  as  possible  to  the  principal  viscera,  and  has 
hardly  been  exceeded  by  those  determined  spirits  who  lately 
in  the  Polar  expedition  braved  the  other  extreme  of  tempe- 
rature, &c.  in  spite  of  whales,  bears,  icebergs,  and  starvation. 

Every  attention  has  been  paid  in  directing  the  proportions 
of  the  following  compositions ;  not  merely  to  make  them  in- 
viting to  the  appetite,  but  agreeable  and  useful  to  the  stomach 
— nourishing  without  being  inflammatory,  and  savoury  with- 
out being  surfeiting. 

I  have  written  for  those  who  make  nourishment  the  chief 
end  of  eating,*  and  do  not  desire  to  provoke  appetite  beyond 

*  I  wish  most  heartily  that  the  restorative  process  was  performed  by  us  poor  mor- 
tals in  as  easy  and  simple  a  manner  as  it  is  in  "  the  cooking  animals  in  the  moon" 
who  "lose  no  time  at  their  meals;  but  open  their  left  side,  and  place  the  whole 
quantity  at  once  in  their  stomachs,  then  shut  it,  till  the  same  day  in  the  next  month, 
for  they  never  indulge  themselves  with  food  more  than  twelve  times  in  a  year."— 
See  BARON  MUNCHAUSEN'S  Travels,  p.  188. 

Pleasing  the  palate  is  the  main  end  in  most  books  of  cookery,  but  it  is  my  aim  to 
llend  the  toothsame  with  the  wholesome ;  but,  after  all,  however  the  hale  gourmand 
may  at  first  differ  from  me  in  opinion,  the  latter  is  the  chief  concern ;  since  if  he  be 
even  so  entirely  devoted  to  the  pleasure  of  eating  as  to  think  of  no  other,  still  the 
care  of  his  health  becomes  part  of  that ;  if  he  is  sick  he  cannot  relish  his  food. 

"The  term  gourmand,  or  EPICURE,  has  been  strangely  perverted ;  it  has  been  con- 
ceived synonymous  with  a  glutton, '  ut  pour  la  digestion,'  who  will  eat  as  long  a? 
lie  can  sit,  and  drink  longer  than  he  can  stand,  nor  leave  his  cup  while  he  cari  lift 
it;  or  like  the  great  eater  of  Kent  whom  FULLER  places  among  his  worthies,  and 
tells  us  that  he  did  eat  with  ease  thirty  dozens  of  pigeons  at  one  meal ;  at  another, 
fourscore  rabbits  and  eighteen  yards  of  black  pudding,  London  measure !— or  a 
fastidious  appetite,  only  to  be  excited  by  fantastic  dainties,  as  the  brains  of  peacocks 
or  parrots,  the  tongues  of  thrushes  or  nightingales,  or  the  teats  of  a  lactiferous  sous, 

"  In  the  acceptation  which  T  give  to  the  lerm  EPICURE,  it  means  only  the  person 
who  has  good  sense  and  good  taste  enough  to  wish  to  have  his  food  cooked  accord- 
ing to  scientific  principles ;  that  is  to  say,  so  prepared  that  the  palate  be  not  offended 
—that  it  be  rendered  easy  of  solution  in  the  stomach,  and  ultimately  contribute  tr> 
health ;  exciting  him  as  an  animal  to  the  vigorous  enjoyment  of  those  recreations 
and  duties,  physical  and  intellectual,  which  constitute  the  happiness  and  dignity  ol 


18  INTRODUCTION. 

the  powers  and  necessities  of  nature ;  proceeding,  however, 
on  the  purest  epicurean  principles  of  indulging  the  palate  as 
far  as  it  can  be  done  without  injury  or  offence  to  the  stomach, 
and  forbidding*  nothing  but  what  is  absolutely  unfriendly  to 
health. 

"  That  which  is  not  good,  is  not  delicious 

To  a  well-govern'd  and  wise  appetite." — MILTON 

This  is  by  no  means  so  difficult  a  task  as  some  gloomy 
philosophers  (uninitiated  in  culinary  science)  have  tried  to 
make  the  world  believe ;  who  seem  to  have  delighted  in  per- 
suading you,  that  every  thing  that  is  nice  must  be  noxious, 
it  every  thing  that  is  nasty  is  wholesome. 

"  How  charming  is  divine  philosophy ! 
Not  harsh,  and  crabbed,  as  dull  fools  suppose, 
But  musical  as  is  Apollo's  lute, 
And  a  perpetual  feast  of  nectar'd  sweets, 
Where  no  crude  surfeit  reigns."— MILTON. 

Worthy  William  Shakspeare  declared  he  never  found  a 
philosopher  who  could  endure  the  toothache  patiently : — the 
Editor  protests  that  he  has  not  yet  overtaken  one  who  did 
not  love  a  feast. 

Those  cynical  slaves  who  are  so  silly  as  to  suppose  it  un- 
becoming a  wise  man  to  indulge  in  the  common  comforts  of 
life,  should  be  answered  in  the  words  of  the  French  philoso- 
pher. "Hey— what,  do  you  philosophers  eat  dainties?" 

his  nature."  For  this  illustration  I  am  indebted  to  my  scientific  friend  Apicius 
Gelius,  Jun.,  with  whose  erudite  observations  several  pages  of  this  work  are 
enriched,  to  which  I  have  affixed  the  signature  A.  C.,  Jun. 

*  "Although  AIR  is  more  immediately  necessary  to  life  than  FOOD,  the  knowledge 
of  the  latter  seems  of  more  importance  ;  it  admits  certainly  of  great  variety,  and  a 
choice  is  more  frequently  in  our  power.  A  very  spare  and  simple  diet  has  commonly 
been  recommended  as  most  conducive  to  health;  but  it  would  be  more  beneficial  to 
mankind  if  we  could  show  them  that  a  pleasant  and  varied  diet  was  equally  con- 
sistent with  health,  as  the  very  strict  regitnen  of  Arnard,  or  the  miller  of  Essex. 
These,  and  other  abstemious  people,  who,  having  experienced  the  greatest  extremi 
ties  of  bad  health,  were  driven  to  temperance  as  their  last  resource,  may  run  out  in 
praises  of  a  simple  diet ;  but  the  probability  is,  that  nothing  but  the  dread  of  former 
sufferings  could  have  given  them  the  resolution  to  persevere  in  so  strict  a  course  oi' 
abstinence,  which  persons  who  are  in  health  and  have  no  such  apprehension  could 
not  be  induced  to  undertake,  or,  if  they  did,  would  not  long  continue. 

"  In  all  cases,  great  allowance  must  be  made  for  the  weakness  of  human  nature : 
the  desires  and  appetites  of  mankind  must,  to  a  certain  degree,  be  gratified ;  and  th^ 
man  who  wishes  to  be  most  useful  will  imitate  the  indulgent  parent,  who,  while  he 
endeavours  to  promote  the  true  interests  of  his  children,  allows  them  the  full  enjoy- 
ment of  all  those  innocent  pleasures  which  they  take  delight  in.  If  it  could  be: 
pointed  out  to  mankind  that  some  articles  used  as  food  were  hurtful,  while  others 
were  in  their  nature  innocent,  and  that  the  latter  were  numerous,  various,  ami 
pleasant,  they  might,  perhaps,  be  induced  to  forego  those  which  were  hurtful,  and 
.onfine  themselves  to  those  which  were  innocent."— See  Dr.  STARE'S  Experiment? 
en  Diet,  pp.  89  and 90, 


INTRODUCTION.  19 

said  a  gay  Marquess.  "  Do  you  think,"  replied  DESCARTES, 
"  that  God  made  good  things  only  for  fools  ?" 

Every  individual,  who  is  not  perfectly  imbecile  and  void 
of  understanding,  is  an  epicure  in  his  own  way.  The  epicures 
in  boiling  of  potatoes  are  innumerable.  The  perfection  of  all 
enjoyment  depends  on  the  perfection  of  the  faculties  of  the 
mind  and  body ;  therefore,  the  temperate  man  is  the  greatest 
epicure,  and  the  only  true  voluptuary. 

THE  PLEASURES  OF  THE  TABLE  have  been  highly  appre- 
ciated and  carefully  cultivated  in  all  countries  and  in  all 
ages  ;*  and  in  spite  of  all  the  stoics,  every  one  will  allow 
they  are  the  first  and  the  last  we  enjoy,  and  those  we  taste 
the  oftenest, — above  a  thousand  times  in  a  year,  every  year 
of  our  lives ! 

THE  STOMACH  is  the  mainspring  of  our  system.  If  it  be 
not  sufficiently  wound  up  to  warm  the  heart  and  support  the 
circulation,  the  whole  business  of  life  will,  in  proportion, 
oe  ineffectively  performed :  we  can  neither  think  with  pre- 
cision, walk  with  vigour,  sit  down  with  comfort,  nor  sleep  with 
tranquillity. 

There  would  be  no  difficulty  in  proving  that  it  influences 
(much  more  than  people  in  general  imagine)  all  our  actions : 
the  destiny  of  nations  has  often  depended  upon  the  more 
or  less  laborious  digestion  of  a  prime  minister.!  See  a  very 
curious  anecdote  in  the  memoirs  of  COUNT  ZINZENDORFF 
in  Dodsley's  Annual  Register  for  1762.  3d  edition,  p.  32. 

The  philosopher  Pythagoras  seems  to  have  been  extremely 
nice  in  eating ;  among  his  absolute  injunctions  to  his  dis- 
ciples, he  commands  them  to  "  abstain  from  beans." 

This  ancient  sage  has  been  imitated  by  the  learned  who 
have  discoursed  on  this  subject  since,  who  are  liberal  of 
their  negative,  and  niggardly  of  their  positive  precepts — in 
the  ratio,  that  it  is  easier  to  tell  you  not  to  do  this,  than  to 
teach  you  how  to  do  that. 

Our  great  English  moralist  Dr.  S.  JOHNSON,  his  biographer 
Boswell  tells  us,  "  was  a  man  of  very  nice  discernment  in 
the  science  of  cookery,"  and  talked  of  good  eating  with  un- 
common satisfaction.  "  Some  people,"  said  he,  "  have  a 
foolish  way  of  not  minding,  or  pretending  not  to  mind,  what 
they  eat ;  for  my  part,  I  mind  my  belly  very  studiously  and 
very  carefully,  and  I  look  upon  it  that  he  who  does  not  mind 
his  belly,  will  hardly  mind  any  thing  else." 

*  See  a  curious  account  in  COURS  CASTRONOM.IQCE,  p.  145,  and  in  Anacharsis" 
Travels,  Robinson,  1796,  vol.  ii.  p.  58,  and  Obs.  and  note  under  No.  493. 

t  See  the  2d,  3d,  and  4tn  pages  of  Sir  WM.  TEMPLE'S  Essay  on  the  Cure  of  tht 
Gout  by  Moxa, 


20  INTRODUCTION. 

The  Dr.  might  have  said,  cannot  mind  any  thing  else.  The 
energy  of  our  BRAINS  is  sadly  dependent  on  the  behaviour  of 
our  BOWELS.*  Those  who  say,  'Tis  no  matter  what  we  eat  or 
what  we  drink,  may  as  well  say,  'Tis  no  matter  whether  we 
eat,  or  whether  we  drink. 

The  following  anecdotes  I  copy  from  BoswelPs  life  of 
Johnson. 

Johnson. — "I  could  write  a  better  book. of  cookery  than 
has  ever  yet  been  written ;  it  should  be  a  book  on  philosophi- 
cal principles.  I  would  tell  what  is  the  best  butcher's  meat, 
the  proper  seasons  of  different  vegetables,  and  then,  how  to 
roast,  and  boil,  and  to  compound." 

Ditty. — "Mrs.  Glasses  cookery,  which  is  the  best,  was 
written  by  Dr.  Hill." 

Johnson. — "Well,  Sir — this  shows  how  much  better  the 
subject  of  cookeryf  may  be  treated  by  a  philosopher  ;J  but 

*  "  He  that  would  have  a  clear  head,  must  have  a  clean  stomach." — Da.  CHBYNK 
on  Health,  8vo.  1724,  p.  34. 

"  It  is  sufficiently  manifest  how  much  uncomfortable  feelings  of  the  bowels  affect 
the  nervous  system,  and  how  immediately  and  completely  the  general  disorder  is 
relieved  by  an  alvine  evacuation."— p.  53. 

"  We  cannot  reasonably  expect  tranquillity  of  the  nervous  system,  while  there  is 
disorder  of  the  digestive  organs.  As  we  can  perceive  no  permanent  source  of 
strength  but  from  the  digestion  of  pur  food,  it  becomes  important  on  this  account 
that  we  should  attend  to  its  quantity,  quality,  arid  the  periods  of  taking  it,  with  a 
view  to  ensure  its  proper  digestion." — ABERNETHY'S  Sur.  Obs.  8vo.  1817,  p.  65. 

f  "  If  science  can  really  contribute  to  the  happiness  of  mankind,  it  must  be  in 
this  department ;  the  real  comfort  of  the  majority  of  men  in  this  country  is  sought 
for  at  their  own  fireside ;  how  desirable  does  it  then  become  to  give  every  induce- 
ment to  be  at  home,  by  directing  all  the  means  of  philosophy  to  increase  domestic 
happiness !" — SYLVESTER'S  Philosophy  of  Domestic  Economy,  4to.  1819,  p.  17. 

|  The  best  books  of  cookery  have  been  written  by  physicians. — Sir  KENELMK 
DIGBY— Sir  THEODORE  MAYERNE.— See  the  last  quarter  of  page  304  of  vol.  x.  of 
the  Phil.  Trans,  for  1675.— Professor  BRADLEY— Dr.  HILL— Dr.  LE  COINTE— Dr. 
HUNTER,  &c. 

"  To  understand  the  THEORY  OF  COOKERY,  we  must  attend  to  the  action  of  heat 
upon  the  various  constituents  of  alimentary  substances  as  applied  directly  and 
indirectly  through  the  medium  of  some  fluid,  in  the  former  way  as  exemplified." 
In  the  processes  of  ROASTING  and  BOILING,  the  chief  constituents  of  animal  substances 
undergo  the  following  changes — the  fibrine  is  corrugated,  the  albumen  coagulated, 
the  gelatine  and  osmazome  rendered  more  soluble  in  water,  the  fat  liquefied,  and 
the  water  evaporated. 

"  If  the  heat  exceed  a  certain  degree,  the  surface  becomes  first  brown,  and  then 
scorched.  In  consequence  of  these  changes,  the  muscular  fibre  becomes  opaque, 
shorter,  firmer,  and  drier ;  the  tendons  less  opaque,  softer,  and  gluey;  the  fat  is  either 
melted  out,  or  rendered  semi-transparent.  Animal  fluids  become  more  transparent : 
the  albumen  is  coagulated  and  separated,  and  they  dissolve  gelatine  and  osmazome. 

"  Lastly,  and  what  is  the  most,  important  change,  and  the  immediate  object  of  all 
cookery,  the  meat  loses  the  vapid  nauseous  smell  and  taste  peculiar  to  its  raw  state, 
and  it  becomes  savoury  and  grateful. 

"  Heat  applied  through  the  intervention  of  boiling  oil,  or  melted  fat,  as  in  FRYING. 
produces  nearly  the  same  changes ;  as  the  heat  is  sufficient  to  evaporate  the  water, 
and  to  induce  a  degree  of  scorching. 

"  But  when  water  is  the  medium  through  which  heat  is  applied— as  in  BOILING, 
STEWING,  and  BAKING,  the  effects  are  somewhat  different,  as  the  h*at  never  exceeds 
812°,  which  is  not  sufficient  to  commence  the  process  of  browning  or  decomposition. 
»nd  the  soluble  constituents  are  removed  by  being  dissolved  in  the  water,  forming 


INTRODUCTION.  21 

you  shall  see  what  a  book  of  cookery  I  shall  make,  and  shall 
agree  with  Mr.  Dilly  for  the  copyright." 

Miss  Seward.—"  That  would  be  Hercules  with  the  distaff 
indeed!" 

Johnson. — "  No,  madam ;  women  can  spin  very  well,  but 
they  cannot  make  a  good  book  of  cookery."  See  vol.  iii.  p.  3 1 1 . 

Mr.  B.  adds,  "  I  never  knew  a  man  who  relished  good- 
eating  more  than  he  did :  when  at  table,  he  was  totally  ab- 
sorbed in  the  business  of  the  moment :  nor  would  he,  unless 
in  very  high  company,  say  one  word,  or  even  pay  the  least 
attention  to  what  was  said  by  others,  until  he  had  satisfied 
his  appetite." 

The  peculiarities  of  his  constitution  were  as  great  as  those 
of  his  character:  luxury  and  intemperance  are  relative 
terms,  depending  on  other  circumstances  than  mere  quantity 
and  quality.  Nature  gave  him  an  excellent  palate,  and  a 
craving  appetite,  and  his  intense  application  rendered  large 
supplies  of  nourishment  absolutely  necessary  to  recruit  his 
exhausted  spirits. 

The  fact  is,  this  great  man  had  found  out  that  animal  and 
intellectual  vigour,*  are  much  more  entirely  dependent  upon 
each  other  than  is  commonly  understood;  especially  in  those 
constitutions  whose  digestive  and  chylopoietic  organs  are 
capricious  and  easily  put  out  of  tune,  or  absorb  the  "pabu- 
lum vita"  indolently  and  imperfectly :  with  such,  it  is  only 
now  and  then  that  the  "  sensorium  commune"  vibrates  with 
the  full  tone  of  accurately  considerative,  or  creative  energy. 
"  His  favourite  dainties  were,  a  leg  of  pork  boiled  till  it 
dropped  from  the  bone,  a  veal-pie,  with  plums  and  sugar,  or 
the  outside  cut  of  a  salt  buttock  of  beef.  With  regard  to 
drink,  his  liking  was  for  the  strongest,  as  it  was  not  the 
flavour,  but  the  effect  that  he  desired."  Mr.  Smale's  Account 
of  Dr.  Johnson's  Journey  into  Wales,  1816,  p.  174. 

Thus  does  the  HEALTH  always,  and  very  often  the  LIFE  of 
invalids,  and  those  who  have  weak  and  infirm  STOMACHS, 
depend  upon  the  care  and  skill  of  the  COOK.  Our  forefathers 
were  so  sensible  of  this,  that  in  days  of  yore  no  man  of 
consequence  thought  of  making  a  day's  journey  without 
taking  his  "  MAGISTER  COQUORUM"  with  him. 

soup  or  broth ;  or,  if  the  direct  contact  of  the  water  be  prevented,  they  are  dissolved 
in  the  juices  of  the  meat,  and  separate  in  the  form  of  gravy." 

Vide  Supplement  to  Encyclop.  Brit.  Edin.  vol.  iv.  p.  344,  the  article  "  FOOD,"  to 
which  we  refer  our  reader  as  the  most  scientific  paper  on  the  subject  we  have  seen. 

*  "  Health,  beauty,  strength,  and  spirits,  and  I  might  add  all  the  faculties  of  the 
mind,  depend  upon  the  organs  of  the  body ;  when  these  are  in  good  order,  the  thinking 
part  is  most  alert  and  active,  the  contrary  when  they  are  disturbed  or  diseased."— 
Dr.  CADOGAN  on  Nursing  Children,  8vo.  1757,  p.  5. 


22  INTRODUCTION. 

The  rarity  of  this  talent  in  a  high  degree  is  so  well  under- 
stood, that  besides  very  considerable  pecuniary  compensa- 
tion, his  majesty's  first  and  second  cooks*  are  now  esquires 
by  their  office.  We  have  every  reason  to  suppose  they  were 
persons  of  equal  dignity  heretofore. 

In  Dr.  Pegge's  "  Forme  of  Cury,"  8vo.  London,  1780,  we 
read,  that  when  Cardinal  Otto,  the  Pope's  legate,  was  at 
Oxford,  A.  D.  1248,  his  brother  officiated  as  "MAGISTER 


This  important  post  has  always  been  held  as  a  situation  of 
high  trust  and  confidence;  and  the  "MAGNUS  COQ,UUS,"  Ang- 
lice,  the  Master  Kitchener,  has,  time  immemorial,  been  an 
officer  of  considerable  dignity  in  the  palaces  of  princes. 

The  cook  in  PLAUTUS  (pseudol)  is  called  "  Hominum  ser- 
•vatorem"  the  preserver  of  mankind  ;  and  by  MERCIER  "  un 
mddecin  qui  gvdrit  radicalement  deux  maladies  mortelles,  la 
faim  et  la  soif." 

The  Norman  conqueror  WILLIAM  bestowed  several  por- 
tions of  land  on  these  highly-favoured  domestics,  the 
"  COQUORUM  PRJEPOSITUS,"  and  "  COQUUS  REGIUS  ;"  a  manor 
was  bestowed  on  Robert  Argyllon  the  "  GRAND  QUEUX,"  to 
be  held  by  the  following  service.  See  that  venerable  record. 
the  doomsday  book. 

"  Robert  Argyllon  holdeth  one  carucate  of  land  in  Adding- 
ton  in  the  county  of  Surrey,  by  the  service  of  making  one 
mess  in  an  earthen  pot  in  the  kitchen  of  our  Lord  the  KING, 
on  the  day  of  his  coronation,  called  De  la  Groute"  i.  e.  a  kind 
of  plum-porridge,  or  water-gruel  with  plums  in  it.  This  dish 
is  still  served  up  at  the  royal  table  at  coronations,  by  the 
Lord  of  the  said  manor  of  Addington. 

At  the  coronation  of  King  George  IV.,  Court  of  Claims. 
July  12,  1820: 

"  The  petition  of  the  Archbishop  of  CANTERBURY,  which 
was  presented  by  Sir  G.  Nayler,  claiming  to  perform  the 
service  of  presenting  a  dish  of  De  la  Groute  to  the  King  at 
the  banquet,  was  considered  by  the  Court,  and  decided  to  be 
allowed." 

A  good  dinner  is  one  of  the  greatest  enjoyments  of  human 
life  ;  and  as  the  practice  of  cookery  is  attended  with  so  many 
discouraging  difficulties,!  so  many  disgusting  and  disagree- 

*  "  We  have  some  good  families  in  England  of  the  name  of  Cook  or  Coke.  1 
kno\v  not  what  they  may  think  ;  but  they  may  depend  upon  it,  they  all  originally 
sprang  from  real  and  professional  cooks  ;  and  they  need  not  be  ashamed  of  their 
extraction,  any  more  than  the  Parkers,  Butlers,  «$•<;."  —  Dr.  PKGSK'S  Forme  of  Cury. 
j>.  162. 

t  It  is  said,  there  are  SEVEN  chances  against  even  the  most  simple  disk  being  pre 
sented  to  the  mouth  in  absolute  perfection  ;  for  instance,  A  LEG  OF  MUTTON. 


INTRODUCTION.  23 

•able  circumstances,  and  even  dangers,  we  ought  to  have  some 
regard  for  those  who  encounter  them  to  procure  us  pleasure, 
and  to  reward  their  attention  by  rendering  their  situation 
every  way  as  comfortable  and  agreeable  as  we  can.  He 
who  preaches  integrity  to  those  in  the  kitchen,  (see  "  Advice 
to  Cooks")  may  be  permitted  to  recommend  liberality  to  those 
in  the  parlour ;  they  are  indeed  the  sources  of  each  other. 
Depend  upon  it,  "  True  self-love  and  social  are  the  same ;" 
"  Do  as  you  would  be  done  by :"  give  those  you  are  obliged 
to  trust  every  inducement  to  be  honest,  and  no  temptation  to 
play  tricks. 

When  you  consider  that  a  good  servant  eats*  no  more  than 
a  bad  one,  how  much  waste  is  occasioned  by  provisions 
being  dressed  in  a  slovenly  and  unskilful  manner,  and  how 
much  a  good  cook  (to  whom  the  conduct  of  the  kitchen  is 
confided)  can  save  you  by  careful  management,  no  house- 
keeper will  hardly  deem  it  an  unwise  speculation  (it  is  cer- 
tainly an  amiable  experiment),  to  invite  the  honesty  and  in- 
dustry of  domestics,  by  setting  them  an  example  of  liberality 
~— at  least,  show  them,  that  "  According  to  their  pains  will 
ne  their  gains." 

Avoid  all  approaches  to  wards  familiarity ;  which,  to  a  pro- 
verb, is  accompanied  by  contempt,  and  soon  breaks  the  neck 
of  obedience. 

A  lady  gave  us  the  following  account  of  the  progress  of  a 
favourite. 

"  The  first  year,  she  was  an  excellent  servant ;  the  second, 
a  kind  mistress ;  the  third,  an  intolerable  tyrant ;  at  whose 
dismissal,  every  creature  about  my  house  rejoiced  heartily." 

However,  servants  are  more  likely  to  be  praised  into  good 
conduct,  than  scolded  out  of  bad.  Always  commend  them 
when  they  do  right.  To  cherish  the  desire  of  pleasing  in  them, 
you  must  show  them  that  you  are  pleased : — 

1st.— The  mutton  must  be  good.  2d.— Must  have  been  kept  a  good  time.  3d.— 
Must  be  roasted  at  a  good  fire.  4th. — By  a  good  cook.  5th. — Who  must  be  in  good 
romper.  6th. — With  all  this  felicitous  combination  you  must  have  good  luck ;  and, 
7th. — Good  appetite. — The  meat,  and  the  mouths  which  are  to  eat  it,  must  be  ready 
tor  action  at  the  same  moment. 

*  To  guard  against  "  la  gourmandise"  of  the  second  table,  "  provide  each  of  your 
servants  with  a  large  pair  of  spectacles  of  the  highest  magnifying  power,  and  never 
permit  them  to  sit  down  to  any  meal  without  wearing  them ;  they  are  as  necessary, 
and  as  useful  in  a  kitchen  as  pots  and  kettles :  they  will  make  a  lark  look  as  largo 
as  a  FOWL,  a  goose  as  big  as  a  SWAN,  a  leg  of  mutton  as  large  as  a  hind  quarter  of 
beef;  a  twopenny  loaf  as  large  as  a  quartern ;"  and  as  philosophers  assure  you  that 
pain  even  is  only  imaginary,  we  may  justly  believe  the  same  of  hunger ;  and  if  a 
servant  who  eats  no  more  than  one  pound  of  food,  imagines,  by  the  aid  of  these 
glasses,  that  he  has  eaten  three  pounds,  his  hunger  will  be  as  fully  satisfied — and 
the  addition  to  your  optician's  account,  will  soon  be  overpaid  by  the  subtraction  from 
your  butcher's  and  baker'a. 


24  INTRODUCTION. 

"  Be  to  their  faults  a  little  blind, 
And  to  their  virtues  very  kind." 

By  such  conduct,  ordinary  servants  may  be  converted  into 
good  ones :  few  are  so  hardened,  as  not  to  feel  gratified  when 
they  are  kindly  and  liberally  treated. 

It  is  a  good  maxim  to  select  servants  not  younger  than 
THIRTY: — before  that  age,  however  comfortable  you  may 
endeavour  to  make  them,  their  want  of  experience,  and  the 
hope  of  something  still  letter,  prevents  their  being  satisfied 
with  their  present  state  ;  after,  they  have  had  the  benefit  of 
experience  :  if  they  are  tolerably  comfortable,  they  will 
endeavour  to  deserve  the  smiles  of  even  a  moderately  kind 
master,  for  fear  they  may  change  for  the  worse. 

Life  may  indeed  be  very  fairly  divided  into  the  seasons  of 
HOPE  and  FEAR.  In  YOUTH,  we  hope  every  thing  may  be  right : 
in  AGE,  me  fear  every  thing  will  be  wrong. 

Do  not  discharge  a  good  servant  for  a  slight  offence : — 

"  Bear  and  forbear,  thus  preached  the  stoic  sages, 
Arid  in  two  words,  include  the  sense  of  pages."— POPE. 

HUMAN  NATURE  is  THE  SAME  IN  ALL  STATIONS  :  if  you  can 
convince  your  servants  that  you  have  a  generous  and  consi- 
derate regard  for  their  health  and  comfort,  why  should  you 
imagine  that  they  will  be  insensible  to  the  good  they  receive  ? 

Impose  no  commands  but  what  are  reasonable,  nor  re- 
prove but  with  justice  and  temper :  the  best  way  to  ensure 
which  is,  never  to  lecture  them  till  at  least  one  day  after 
they  have  offended  you. 

If  they  have  any  particular  hardship  to  endure  in  your 
service,  let  them  see  that  you  are  concerned  for  the  neces- 
sity of  imposing  it. 

If  they  are  sick,  remember  you  are  their  patron  as  well  as 
their  master :  remit  their  labour,  and  give  them  all  the  assist- 
ance of  food,  physic,  and  every  comfort  in  your  power. 
Tender  assiduity  about  an  invalid  is  half  a  cure ;  it  is  a  bal- 
sam to  the  mind,  which  has  a  most  powerful  effect  on  the 
oody,  soothes  the  sharpest  pains,  and  strengthens  beyond  the 
richest  cordial. 

Ye  who  think  that  to  protect  and  encourage  virtue  is  the 
best  preventive  from  vice,  reward  your  female  servants  libe- 
rally. 

CHARITY  SHOULD  BEGIN  AT  HOME.  Prevention  is  preferable 
to  cure — but  I  have  no  objection  to  see  your  names  orna- 
menting the  lists  of  subscribers  to  foundling  hospitals  and 


INTRODUCTION.  25 

female  penitentiaries.*  Gentle  reader,  for  a  definition  of 
the  word  "  charity?  let  me  refer  you  to  the  13th  Chapter  of 
St.  Paul's  First  Epistle  to  the  Corinthians. 

"  To  say  nothing  of  the  deleterious  vapours  and  pestilen- 
tial exhalations  of  the  charcoal,  which  soon  undermine  the 
health  of  the  heartiest,  the  glare  of  a  scorching  fire,  and  the 
smoke  so  baneful  to  the  eyes  and  the  complexion,  are  conti- 
nual and  inevitable  dangers :  and  a  cook  must  live  in  the 
midst  of  them,  as  a  soldier  on  the  field  of  battle  surrounded 
by  bullets,  and  bombs,  and  CONGREVE'S  rockets ;  with  this 
only  difference,  that  for  the  first,  every  day  is  a  fighting 
day,  that  her  warfare  is  almost  always  without  glory, 
and  most  praiseworthy  achievements  pass  not  only  without 
reward,  but  frequently  without  thanks :  for  the  most  con- 
summate cook  is,  alas  !  seldom  noticed  by  the  master,  or 
heard  of  by  the  guests ;  who,  while  they  are  eagerly  de- 
vouring his  turtle,  and  drinking  his  wine,  care  very  little 
who  dressed  the  one,  or  sent  the  other." — Almanack  de& 
Gourmands. 

This  observation  applies  especially  to  the  SECOND  COOK,  or 
first  kitchen  maid,  in  large  families,  who  have  by  far  the 
hardest  place  in  the  house,  and  are  worse  paid,  and  truly 
verify  the  old  adage,  "the  more  work,  the  less  wages." 
If  there  is  any  thing  right,  the  cook  has  the  praise — when 
there  is  any  thing  wrong,  as  surely  the  kitchen  maid  has 
the  blame.  Be  it  known,  then,  to  honest  JOHN  BULL, 
that  this  humble  domestic  is  expected  by  the  cook  to  take 
the  entire  management  of  all  ROASTS,  BOILS,  FISH,  and 
VEGETABLES;  i.  e.  the  principal  part  of  an  Englishman's 
dinner. 

The  master,  who  wishes  to  enjoy  the  rare  luxury  of  a 
table  regularly  well  served  in  the  best  style,  must  treat  his 


*  Much  real  reformation  might  be  effected,  and  most  grateful  services  obtained,  if 
families  which  consist  wholly  of  females,  would  take  servants  recommended  from 
the  MAGDALEN — PENITENTIARY — or  GUARDIAN — who  seek  to  be  restored  tovirtuour 
"ociety. 

"  Female  servants  who  pursue  an  honest  course,  have  to  travel,  in  their  peculiar 
orbit,  through  a  more  powerfully  resisting  medium  than  perhaps  any  other  class  ol 
people  in  civilized  life ;  they  should  be  treated  with  something  like  Christian  kind- 
iiess :  for  want  of  this,  a  fault  which  might  at  the  time  have  been  easily  amended> 
has  become  the  source  of  interminable  sorrow." 

"  By  the  clemency  and  benevolent  interference  of  two  mistresses  known  to  the 
writer,  two  servants  have  become  happy  wives,  who,  had  they  been  in  some  situa- 
lions,  would  have  been  literally  outcasts." 

A  most  laudable  SOCIETY  for  the  ENCOURAGEMENT  of  FEMALE  SERVANTS,  by  a 
gratuitous  registry,  and  by  rewards,  was  instituted  in  1813 ;  plans  of  which  may  be 
had  gratis  at  the  Society's  House,  No.  10,  Hatton  Garden.  The  above  is  an  extract 
from  the  REV.  H.  G.  W  ATKINS'S  Hints  to  Heads  of  FrtnMtos.  a  work  well  deserving 
Tlie  attentive  consideration  of  inexperienced  housekeepers. 


26  INTRODUCTION. 

cook  as  his  friend— watch  over  her  health*  with  the  tendercsi 
care,  and  especially  be  sure  her  taste  does  not  suffer  from 
her  stomach  being  deranged  by  bilious  attacks. 

Besides  understanding  the  management  of  the  spit,  the 
stewpan,  and  the  rolling-pin,  a  COMPLETE  COOK  must  know 
how  to  go  to  market,  write  legibly,  and  keep  accounts 
accurately. 

In  well-regulated  private  families  the  most  convenient 
custom  seems  to  be,  that  the  cook  keep  a  house-book,  con- 
taining an  account  of  the  miscellaneous  articles  she  pur- 
chases ;  and  the  butcher's,  baker's,  butterman's,  green-, 
grocer's,  fishmonger's,  milkman's,  and  washing  bills  arc 
brought  in  every  Monday;  these  it  is  the  duty  of  the  cook 
to  examine,  before  she  presents  them  to  her  employer  every 
Tuesday  morning  to  be  discharged. 

*  The  greatest  care  should  be  taken  by  the  man  of  fashion,  that  his  cook's  health 
be  preserved :  one  hundredth  part  of  the  attention  usually  bestowed  on  his  dog,  or 
his  horse,  will  suffice  to  regulate  her  animal  system. 

"Cleanliness,  and  a  proper  ventilation  to  carry  off  smoke  and  steam,  should 
be  particularly  attended  to  in  the  construction  of  a  kitchen ;  the  grand  scene  of 
action,  the  fire-place,  should  be  placed  where  it  may  receive  plenty  of  light;  hitherto 
the  contrary  has  prevailed,  and  the  poor  cook  is  continually  basted  with  her  own 
perspiration." — ^9.C.,  Jun. 

"  The  most  experienced  artists  in  cookery  cannot  be  certain  of  their  work  without 
tasting :  they  must  be  incessantly  tasting.  The  spoon  of  a  good  cook  is  continually 
passing  from  the  stewpan  to  his  tongue ;  nothing  but  frequent  tasting  his  sauces, 
ragouts,  &c.  can  discover  to  him  what  progress  they  have  made,  or  enable  him  to 
season  a  soup  with  any  certainty  of  success ;  his  palate,  therefore,  must  be  in  the 
highest  state  of  excitability,  that  the  least  fault  may  be  perceived  in  an  instant. 

"  But,  alas !  the  constant  empyreumatic  fumes  of  the  stoves,  the  necessity  of 
frequent  drinking,  and  often  of  bad  beer,  to  moisten  a  parched  throat ;  in  short, 
every  thing  around  him  conspires  quickly  to  vitiate  the  organs  of  taste ;  the  palate 
becomes  blunted ;  its  quickness  of  feeling  and  delicacy,  on  which  the  sensibility  of 
the  organs  of  taste  depends,  grows  daily  more  obtuse ;  and  in  a  short  time  the  gus- 
tatory nerve  becomes  quite  unexcitable. 

"  IF  YOU  FIND  YOUR  COOK  NEGLECT  HIS  BUSINESS — that  his  rago&ts  are  too  highly 
spiced  or  salted,  and  his  cookery  has  too  much  of  the  '  fiaut  goutj  you  may  be  suro 
that  his  index  of  taste  wants  regulating ;  his  palate  has  lost  its  sensibility,  and  it  is 
high  time  to  call  in  the  assistance  of  the  apothecary. 

" '  Purger  souvent1  is  the  grand  maxim  in  all.  kitchens  where  le  Mattre  d'H&tel 
has  any  regard  for  the  reputation  of  his  table.  Les  Bans  Hommes  de  Bouche 
submit  to  the  operation  without  a  murmur;  to  bind  others,  it  should  be  made  the 
first  condition  in  hiring  them.  Those  who  refuse,  prove  they  were  not  bom  to 
become  masters  of  their  art;  and  their  indifference  to  fame  will  rank  them,  as  they 
deserve,  among  those  slaves  who  pass  their  lives  in  as  much  obscurity  as  their  own 
stewpans." 

To  the  preceding  observations  from  the  "  Almanack  des  Gourmands,"  we  may 
add,  that  the  Mouthician  will  have  a  still  better  chance  of  success,  if  he  can  prevail 
on  his  master  to  observe  the  same  regime  which  he  orders  for  his  cook ;  or,  instead  of 
endeavouring  to  awaken  an  idle  appetite  toy  reading  the  index  to  a  cookeiy  book,  or 
an  additional  use  of  the  pepper-box  and  salt-cellar,  rather  seek  it.  from  abstinence 
or  exercise ;— the  philosophical  gourmand  will  consider  that  the  edge  of  our  appetite 
is  generally  keen,  in  proportion  to  the  activity  of  our  other  habits;  let  him  atten- 
tively peruse  our  "  PEPTIC  PRKCKPTS,"  &c.  which  briefly  explain  the  art  of  refreshing 
the  gustatory  nerves,  and  of  invigorating  the  whole  system.  See  in  the  following 
chapter  on  INVITATIONS  TO  DINNER — A  recipe  to  make  FORTY  PERISTALTIC  PER 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  advantage  of  paying  such  bills  weekly  is  incalcula- 
ble :  among-  others  the  constant  check  it  affords  against 
any  excess  beyond  the  sum  allotted  for  defraying  them,  and 
the  opportunity  it  gives  of  correcting  increase  of  expense 
in  one  week  by  a  prudent  retrenchment  in  the  next.  "  If 
you  would  live  even  with  the  world,  calculate  your  expenses 
at  half  your  income  —  if  you  would  grow  rich,  at  one-third" 

It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  have  a  table  of  rules  for  regu- 
lating the  ordinary  expenses  of  the  family,  in  order  to  check 
any  innovation  or  excess  which  otherwise  might  be  intro- 
duced unawares,  and  derange  the  proposed  distribution  of 
the  annual  revenue. 

To  understand  the  economy  of  household  affairs  is  not 
only  essential  to  a  woman's  proper  and  pleasant  performance 
of  the  duties  of  a  wife  and  a  mother,  but  is  indispensable  to 
the  comfort,  respectability,  and  general  welfare  of  all  familieSj 
whatever  be  their  circumstances. 

The  editor  has  employed  some  leisure  hours  in  collecting 
practical  hints  for  instructing  inexperienced  housekeepers  in 
the  useful 

Art  of  providing  comfortably  for  a  family; 
which  is  displayed  so  plainly  and  so  particularly,  that  a 
young  lady  may  learn  the  delectable  arcana  of  domestic 
affairs,  in  as  little  time  as  is  usually  devoted  to  directing  the 
position  of  her  hands  on  a  piano-forte,  or  of  her  feet  in  a 
quadrille—  this  will  enable  her  to  make  the  cage  of  matri- 
mony as  comfortable  as  the  net  of  courtship  was  charming. 
For  this  purpose  he  has  contrived  a  Housekeeper's  Leger, 
a  plain  and  easy  plan  of  keeping  accurate  accounts  of  the 
expenses  of  housekeeping,  which,  with  only  one  hour's  atten- 
tion in  a  week,  will  enable  you  to  balance  all  such  accounts 
with  the  utmost  exactness  ;  an  acceptable  acquisition  to  all 
who  admit  that  order  and  economy  are  the  basis  of  comfort 
and  independence. 

It  is  almost  impossible  for  a  cook  in  a  large  family,  to 
attend  to  the  business  of  the  kitchen  with  any  certainty  of 
perfection,  if  employed  in  other  household  concerns.  It  is 
a  service  of  such  importance,  and  so  difficult  to  perform  even 
tolerably  well,  that  it  is  sufficient  to  engross  the  entire  atten- 
tion of  one  person. 

"  If  we  take  a  review  of  the  qualifications  which  are  indis- 
pensable in  that  highly  estimable  domestic,  a  GOOD  COOK,  we 
shall  find  that  very  few  deserve  that  name."* 

*  "  She  must  be  quick  and  strong  of  sight  ;  her  hearing  most  acute,  that  she  may 
5>e  sensible  when  the  contents  of  her  vessels  bubble,  although  they  be  closely  covered, 
and  that  she  may  be  alarmed  before  the  pot  boils  over;  her  auditory  nerve  ough" 


23  INTRODUCTION. 

"  The  majority  of  those  who  set  up  for  professors  of  this 
art  are  of  mean  ability,  selfish,  and  pilfering  every  thing 
they  can;  others  are  indolent  and  insolent.  Those  who 
really  understand  their  business  (which  are  by  far  the 
smallest  number),  are  too  often  either  ridiculously  saucy,  or 
insatiably  thirsty  ;  in  a  word,  a  good  subject  of  this  class  is 
a  rara  avis  indeed !" 

"God  sends  meat," — who  sends  cooks'?*  the  proverb  has 
long  saved  us  the  trouble  of  guessing.  Vide  Almanack  des 
Gourmands,  p.  83. 

Of  what  value  then  is  not  this  book,  which  will  render 
every  person  of  common  sense  a  good  cook  in  as  little  time 
as  it  can  be  read  through  attentively ! 

If  the  masters  and  mistresses  of  families  will  sometimes 
condescend  to  make  an  amusement  of  this  art,  they  will 
escape  numberless  disappointments,  &c.  which  those  who 
xvill  not,  must  occasionally  inevitably  suffer,  to  the  detriment 
of  both  their  health  and  their  fortune. 

I  did  not  presume  to  offer  any  observations  of  my  own, 
till  I  had  read  all  that  I  could  find  written  on  the  subject, 
and  submitted  (with  no  small  pains)  to  a  patient  and  attentive 
consideration  of  every  preceding  work,  relating  to  culinary 
concerns,  that  I  could  meet  with. 

These  books  vary  very  little  from  each  other ;  except  in 
the  preface,  they  are 

"  Like  in  all  else  as  one  egg  to  another." 

"  Ab  uno,  disce  ornnes"  cutting  and  pasting  have  been 
much  oftener  employed  than  the  pen  and  ink :  any  one 
who  has  occasion  to  refer  to  two  or  three  of  them,  will 
find  the  receipts  almost  always  "  verbatim  et  literatim ;" 
equally  unintelligible  to  those  who  are  ignorant,  and  use- 
less to  those  who  are  acquainted  with  the  business  of  the 
kitchen. 

I  have  perused  not  fewer  than  250  of  these  volumes. 

During  the  Herculean  labour  of  my  tedious  progress 

to  discriminate  (when  several  saucepans  are  in  operation  at  the  same  time)  the  sim- 
mering of  one,  the  ebullition  of  another,  and  the  full-toned  wabbling  of  a  third. 

"  It  is  imperiously  requisite  that  her  organ  of  smell  be  highly  susceptible  of  the 
various  effluvia,  that  her  nose  may  distinguish  the  perfection  of  aromatic  ingredients, 
and  that  in  animal  substances  it  shall  evince  a  suspicious  accuracy  between  tender- 
ness and  putrefaction ;  above  all,  her  olfactories  should  be  tremblingly  alive  to 
mustiness  and  empyreuma. 

"  It  is  from  the  exquisite  sensibility  of  her  palate,  that  we  admire  and  judge  of  the 
cook;  from  the  alliance  between  the  olfactory  and  sapid  organs,  it  will  be  seen  that 
their  perfection  is  indispensable." — Jl.  C.,Jun. 

*  A  facetious  gourmand  suggests  that  the  old  story  of  "lighting  a  candle  to  thp 
devil,"  probably  arose  from  this  adage— and  was  an  offering  presented  to  his?  infernal 
majesty  by  some  epicure  who  was  in  want  of  a  cook. 


INTRODUCTION.  29 

through  these  books,  few  of  which  afford  the  germ  of  a 
single  idea,  I  have  often  wished  that  the  authors  of  them 
had  been  satisfied  with  giving  us  the  results  of  their  own 
practice  and  experience,  instead  of  idly  perpetuating  the 
errors,  prejudices,  and  plagiarisms  of  their  predecessors; 
the  strange,  and  unaccountable,  and  uselessly  extravagant 
farragoes  and  heterogeneous  compositions  which  fill  their 
pages,  are  combinations  no  rational  being  would  ever  think 
of  either  dressing  or  eating ;  and  without  ascertaining  the 
practicability  of  preparing  the  receipts,  and  their  fitness 
for  food  when  done,  they  should  never  have  ventured  to 
recommend  them  to  others  :  the  reader  of  them  will  often 
put  the  same  qucere,  as  Jeremy,  in  Congreve's  comedy  oX 
"Love  for  Love,"  when  Valentine  observes,  "  There's  a  page 
doubled  down  in  Epictetus  that  is  a  feast  for  an  emperor. 
— Jer.  Was  Epictetus  a  real  cook,  or  did  he  only  write 
receipts  ?" 

Half  of  the  modern  cookery  books  are  made  up  with 
pages  cut  out  of  obsolete  works,  such  as  the  "  Choice 
Manual  of  Secrets,"  the  "  True  Gentlewoman's  Delight," 
&c.  of  as  much  use,  in  this  age  of  refinement,  as  the  fol- 
lowing curious  passage  from  "The  Accomplished  Lady's 
Rich  Closet  of  Rarities,  or  Ingenious  Gentlewoman's  De- 
lightful Companion,"  12mo.  London,  1653,  chapter  7,  page 
42 ;  which  I  have  inserted  in  a  note,*  to  give  the  reader  a 
notion  of  the  barbarous  manners  of  the  16th  century,  with 
the  addition  of  the  arts  of  the  confectioner,  the  brewer,  the 
baker,  the  distiller,  the  gardener,  the  clear-starcher,  and  the 
perfumer,  and  how  to  make  pickles,  puff  paste,  butter, 
blacking,  &c.  together  with  my  Lady  BountifuPs  sovereign 
remedy  for  an  inward  bruise,  and  other  ever-failing  nostrums. 
— Dr.  Killemquick^s  wonder-working  essence,  and  fallible 
elixir,  which  cures  all  manner  of  incurable  maladies  directly 
minute,  Mrs.  Notable's  instructions  how  to  make  soft  po- 

*  "  A  gentlewoman  being  at  table,  abroad  or  at  home,  must  observe  to  keep  her 
body  straight,  and  lean  not  by  any  means  with  her  elbows,  nor  by  ravenous  gesture 
discover  a  voracious  appetite :  talk  not  when  you  have  meat  in  your  mouth;  and  do 
not  smack  like  a  pig,  nor  venture  to  eat  spoonmeat  so  hot  that  the  tears  stand  in 
your  eyes,  which  is  as  unseemly  as  the  gentlewoman  who  pretended  to  have  as  litUe 
a  stomach,  as  she  had  a  mouth,  and  therefore  would  not  swallow  her  pease  by 
spoonfuls ;  but  took  them  one  by  one,  and  cut  them  in  two  before  she  would  eat 
them.  It  is  very  uncomely  to  drink  so  large  a  draught  that  your  breath  is  almost 
gone — and  are  forced  to  blow  strongly  to  recover  yourself— throwing  down  your 
liquor  as  into  a  funnel  is  an  action  fitter  for  a  juggler  than  a  gentlewoman:  thus 
much  for  your  observations  in  general ;  if  I  am  defective  aa  to  particulars,  your  own 
prudence,  discretion,  and  curious  observations  will  supply." 

"  In  CARVING  at  your  own  table,  distribute  the  best  pieces  first,  and  it  will  appear 
very  comely  and  decent  to  use  a  fork;  so  touch  no  piece  of  meat  without  it." 

"Mem.  The  English  are  indebted  to  TOM  CORYAT  tor  introducing  THK  FORK,  for 
Which  they  called  him  J>'«r«yfer."— See  his  Cruditiea.voLi.  p.  106.— Edit.  177G,8vo. 

CO 


30  IHTBODUCTION. 

matum,  that  will  soon  make  more  hair  grow  upon  thy 
head,  "  than  Dobbin,  thy  thill-horse,  hath  upon  his  tail," 
and  many  others  equally  invaluable ! ! !— the  proper  appella- 
tion for  which  would  be  "  a  dangerous  budget  of  vulgar 
errors,"  concluding  with  a  bundle  of  extracts  from  "  the  Gar- 
dener's Calendar,"  and  "  the  Publican's  Daily  Companion." 

Thomas  Carter,  in  the  preface  to  his  "  City  and  Country 
Cook,"  London,  1738,  says,  "  What  I  have  published  is  almost 
the  only  book,  one  or  two  excepted,  which  of  late  years  has 
come  into  tlie  world,  that  has  been  the  result  of  the  author's 
own  practice  and  experience ;  for  though  very  few  eminent 
practical  cooks  have  ever  cared  to  publish  what  they  knew 
of  the  art,  yet  they  have  been  prevailed  on,  for  a  small  pre- 
mium from  a  bookseller,  to  lend  their  names  to  performances 
in  this  art  unworthy  their  owning." 

Robert  May,  in  the  introduction  to  his  "Accomplished 
Cook,"  1665,  says,  "  To  all  honest  and  well-intending  per- 
sons of  my  profession,  and  others,  this  book  cannot  but  be 
acceptable,  as  it  plainly  and  profitably  discovers  the  mystery 
of  the  whole  art;  for  which,  though  I  may  be  envied  by 
some,  that  only  value  their  private  interests  above  posterity 
and  the  public  good ;  yet  (he  adds),  God  and  my  own  con- 
science would  not  permit  me  to  bury  these,  my  experiences, 
with  my  silver  hairs  in  the  grave." 

Those  high  and  mighty  masters  and  mistresses  of  the  ali- 
mentary art,  who  call  themselves  "profess"  cooks,  are  said 
to  be  very  jealous  and  mysterious  beings ;  and  that  if,  in  a 
long  life  of  laborious  stove-work,  they  have  found  out  a  few 
useful  secrets,  they  seldom  impart  to  the  public  the  fruits  of 
their  experience ;  but  sooner  than  divulge  their  discoveries 
for  the  benefit  and  comfort  of  their  fellow-creatures,  these 
silly,  selfish  beings  will  rather  run  the  risk  of  a  reprimand 
from  their  employers,  and  will  sooner  spoil  a  good  dinner, 
than  suffer  their  fellow-servants  to  see  how  they  dress  it ! !  j 

The  silly  selfishness  of  short-sighted  mortals,  is  never 
more  extremely  absurd  than  in  their  unprofitable  parsimony 
of  what  is  of  no  use  to  them,  but  would  be  of  actual  value- 
to  others,  who,  in  return,  would  willingly  repay  them  ten- 
fold. However,  I  hope  I  may  be  permitted  to  quote,  in  de- 
fence of  these  culinary  professors,  a  couple  of  lines  of  a 
favourite  old  song : 

"  If  you  search  the  world  round,  each  profession,  you'll  find, 
Hath  some  snug  little  secrets,  which  the  Mystery*  they  call." 

*  "  Almost  all  arts  and  sciences  are  more  or  less  encumbered  with  vulgar  error? 
and  prejudices,  which  avarice  and  ignorance  have  unfortunately  sufficient  influence 
ro  preserve,  by  help  (or  hindrance)  of  mysteriouf ,  uirfefmable,  and  not  seldom  un- 


INTRODUCTION.  31 

My  RECEIPTS  are  the  results  of  experiments  carefully  made, 
and  accurately  and  circumstantially  related ; 

The  TIME  requisite  for  dressing  being  stated ; 

The  QUANTITIES  of  the  various  articles  contained  in  each 
composition  being  carefully  set  down  in  NUMBER,  WEIGHT. 
and  MEASURE. 

The  WEIGHTS  are  avoirdupois ;  the  MEASURE,  Lyne^s  gra- 
duated glass,  i.  e.  a  wine-pint  divided  into  sixteen  ounces, 
and  the  ounce  into  eight  drachms.  By  a  wine-glass  is  to  be 
understood  two  ounces  liquid  measure ;  by  a  large  or  table- 
spoonful,  half  an  ounce  ;  by  a  small  or  tea-spoonful,  a  drachm, 
or  half  a  quarter  of  an  ounce,  i.  e.  nearly  equal  to  two  drachms 
avoirdupois. 

At  some  glass  warehouses,  you  may  get  measures  divided 
into  tea  and  table-spoons.  No  cook  should  be  without  one, 
who  wishes  to  be  regular  in  her  business. 

This  precision  has  never  before  been  attempted  in  cookery 
books,  but  I  found  it  indispensable  from  the  impossibility  of 
guessing  the  quantities  intended  by  such  obscure  expressions 
as  have  been  usually  employed  for  this  purpose  in  former 
works : — 

"  For  instance :  a  bit  of  this — a  handful  of  that — a  pinch 
of  t'  other — do  'em  over  with  an  egg — and  a  sprinkle  of  salt 
— a  dust  of  flour — a  shake  of  pepper — a  squeeze  of  lemon, — 
or  a  dash  of  vinegar,  &c.  are  the  constant  phrases.  Season 
it  to  your  palate,  (meaning  the  cook's,)  is  another  form  of 
speech :  now,  if  she  has  any,  (it  is  very  unlikely  that  it  is 
in  unison  with  that  of  her  employers,)  by  continually  sip- 
ping piquante  relishes,  it  becomes  blunted  and  insensible, 
and  loses  the  faculty  of  appreciating  delicate  flavours,  so 
that  every  thing  is  done  at  random. 

These  culinary  technicals  are  so  very  differently  under- 
stood by  thg  learned  who  write  themvand  the  unlearned  who 
read  them,  and  their  "  rule  of  thumb"  is  so  extremely  indefi- 

iutelligible,  technical  terms — Anglicd,  nicknames — which,  instead  of  enlightening 
the  subject  it  is  professedly  pretended  they  were  invented  to  illuminate,  serve  but  to 
shroud  it  in  almost  impenetrable  obscurity ;  and,  in  general,  so  extravagantly  fond 
are  the  professors  of  an  art  of  keeping  up  all  the  pomp,  circumstance,  and  mystery 
of  it,  and  of  preserving  the  accumulated  prejudices  of  ages  past  undiminished,  that 
one  might  fairly  suppose  those  who  have  had  the  courage  and  perseverance  to  over- 
come these  obstacles,  and  penetrate  the  veil  of  science,  were  delighted  with  placing 
difficulties  in  the  way  of  those  who  may  attempt  to  follow  them,  on  purpose  to  deter 
them  from  the  pursuit ,  and  that  they  cannot  bear  others  should  climb  the  hill  of 
knowledge  by  a  readier  road  than  they  themselves  did :  and  such  is  V esprit  du  corps, 
that  as  their  predecessors  supported  themselves  by  serving  it  out  gradatim  et  stil- 
tatim,  nnd  retailing  with  a  sparing  hand  the  information  they  so  hardly  obtained. 
they  find  it  convenient  to  follow  their  example :  and,  willing  to  do  as  they  have  been 
done  by,  leave  and  bequeath  the  inheritance  undiminished  to  those  who  may  succeed 
riiem." — See  p.  10  of  Dr.  KITCUINER  on  Telcscopfs,  ISmo.  1825,  printed  for  Whit 
faker  Avc  Maria  Lane. 


32  INTRODUCTION. 

nite,  that  if  the  same  dish  be  dressed  by  different  persons,  it 
will  generally  be  so  different,  that  nobody  would  imagine 
they  had  worked  from  the  same  directions,  which  will  assist 
a  person  who  has  not  served  a  regular  apprenticeship  in  the 
kitchen,  no  more  than  reading  "Robinson  Crusoe"  would 
enable  a  sailor  to  steer  safely  from  England  to  India.* 

It  is  astonishing  how  cheap  cookery  books  are  held  by  prac- 
tical cooks :  when  I  applied  to  an  experienced  artist  to  recom- 
mend me  some  books  that  would  give  me  a  notion  of  the 
rudiments  of  cookery,  he  replied,  with  a  smile,  "  You  may 
read  Don  Quixote,  or  Peregrine  Pickle,  they  are  both  very 
good  books." 

Careless  expressions  in  cookery  are  the  more  surprising, 
as  the  confectioner  is  regularly  attentive,  in  the  description 
of  his  preparations,  to  give  the  exact  quantities,  though  his 
business,  compared  to  cookery,  is  as  unimportant  as  the 
ornamental  is  inferior  to  the  useful. 

The  maker  of  blanc-mange,  custards,  &c.  and  the  endless 
and  useless  collection  of  puerile  playthings  for  the  palate  (of 
first  and  second  childhood,  for  the  vigour  of  manhood  seeketh 
not  to  be  sucking  sugar,  or  sipping  turtle),  is  scrupulously 
exact,  even  to  a  grain,  in  his  ingredients ;  while  cooks  are 
unintelligibly  indefinite,  although  they  are  intrusted  with  the 
administration  of  our  FOOD,  upon  the  proper  quality  and  pre- 
paration of  which,  all  our  powers  of  body  and  mind  depend ; 
their  energy  being  invariably  in  the  ratio  of  the  performance 
of  the  restorative  process,  i.  e.  the  quantity,  quality,  and 
perfect  digestion  of  what  we  eat  and  drink. 

Unless  the  stomach  be  in  good  humour,  every  part  of  the 
machinery  of  life  must  vibrate  with  languor :  can  we  then 
be  too  attentive  to  its  adjustment  ? ! ! 


CULINARY  CURIOSITIES.. 

The  following  specimen  of  the  unaccountably  whimsical  harlequinade  of  foreigu 
kitchens  is  from  "  La  Chapelle"  Nouveau  Cuisinier,  Paris,  1748. 

"  A  turkey,"  in  the  shape  of  "football,"  or  "  a  hedge-hog."  A  shoulder  of  mut 
ton,"  in  the  shape  of  a  "  bee-hive."—"  Entree  of  pigeons,"  in  the  form  of  a  "  spider  J' 
or  sun-fashion,  or  "  in  the  form  of  a  frog,"  or,  in  "  the  form  of  the  moon."— Or, 

*  "  In  the  present  language  of  cookery,  there  has  been  a  woful  departure  from 
the  simplicity  of  our  ancestors, — such  a  farrago  of  unappropriate  and  unmeaning 
terms,  many  corrupted  from  the  French,  others  disguised  from  the  Italian,  some 
misapplied  from  the  German,  while  many  are  a  disgrace  to  the  English.  What  can 
any  person  suppose  to  be  the  meaning  of  a  shoulder  of  lamb  in  epigram,  unless  it 
were  a  poor  dish,  for  a  pennyless  poet  1  Aspect  of  fish,  would  appear  calculates 
for  an  astrologer;  and  shoulder  of  mutton  surprised,  designed  for  a  sheep-stealer* 
-~A.  C,  Jun. 


INTRODUCTION.  S3 

•''  to  make  a  pig  taste  like  a  wild  boar ;"  take  a  living  pig,  and  let  him  swallow  the 
following  drink,  viz.  boil  together  in  vinegar  and  water,  some  rosemary,  thyme, 
sweet  basil,  bay  leaves,  and  sage ;  when  you  have  let  him  swallow  this,  immediately 
whip  him  to  death,,  and  roast  him  forthwith.  How  "  to  still  a  cocke  for  a  weak 
bodie  that  is  consumed, — take  a  red  cocke  that  is  not  too  olde,  and  beat  him  to 
death." — See  THE  BOOKE  OF  »;OOKRYE,  very  necessary  for  all  such  as  delight  therein. 
Gathered  by  A.  W.,  1591,  p.  12.  How  to  ROAST  a  pound  of  BUTTER,  curiously  and 
well ;  and  to  farce  (the  culinary  technical  for  to  stuff)  a  boiled  leg  of  lamb  with  red 
herrings  and  garlic ;  with  many  other  receipts  of  as  high  a  relish,  and  of  as  easy 
digestion  as  the  devil1  s  venison,  i.  e.  a  roasted  tiger  stuffed  with  ten  penny  nails,  or 
the  "  Bonne  Bouche"  the  rareskin  Rowskimowmowsky  offered  to  Baron  Mun- 
Chausen,  "  a  fricassee  of  pistols,  with  gunpowder  and  alcohol  sauce." — See  the  Ad- 
ventures of  Baron  Munchausen,  12mo.  1792,  p.  200 ;  and  the  horrible  but  authentic 
account  of  ARDESOIF,  in  MOUBRAY'S  Treatise  on  Poultry,  8vo.  181G,  p.  18. 

But  the  most  extraordinary  of  all  the  culinary  receipts  that  have  been  under  my 
eye,  is  the  following  diabolically  cruel  directions  of  Mizald,  "  how  to  roast  and  cat  a 
goose  alive."  "Take  a  GOOSE  or  a  DUCK,  or  some  such  lively  creature,  (but  a  goose 
is  best  of  all  for  this  purpose,)  pull  off  all  her  feathers,  only  the  head  and  neck  must 
be  spared  :  then  make  a  fire  round  about  her,  not  too  close  to  ner,  that  the  smoke  do 
not  choke  her,  and  that  the  fire  may  not  burn  her  too  soon ;  nor  too  tar  off,  that  she  may 
not  escape  free :  within  the  circle  of  the  fire  let  there  be  set  small  cups  and  pots  full 
of  water,  wherein  salt  and  honey  are  mingled :  and  let  there  be  set  also  chargers  full 
of  sodden  apples,  cut  into  small  pieces  in  the  dish.  The  goose  must  be  all  larded,  and 
basted  over  with  butter,  to  make  her  the  more  fit  to  be  eaten,  and  may  roast  the 
better:  put  then  fire  about  her,  but  do  not  make  too  much  haste,  when  as  you  see 
her  begin  to  roast;  for  by  walking  about,  and  flying  here  and  there,  being  cooped  in 
by  the  fire  that  stops  her  way  out,  the  unwearied  goose  is  kepi  in ;  she  will  fall  to 
drink  the  water  to  quench  her  thirst  and  cool  her  heart,  and  all  her  body,  and  the 
apple-sauce  will  make  her  dung,  and  cleanse  and  empty  her.  And  when  she  roasteth, 
and  consumes  inwardly,  always  wet  her  head  and  heart  with  a  wet  sponge ;  and 
when  you  see  her  giddy  with  running,  and  begin  to  stumble,  hei  heart  wants  moist- 
ure, and  she  is  roasted  enough.  Take  her  up,  set  her  before  your  guests,  and  she 
will  cry  as  you  cut  off  any  part  from  her,  and  will  be  almost  eaten  up  before  she  be 
dead ;  it  is  mighty  pleasant  to  behold ! !" — See  WECKER'S  Secrets  of  Nature,  in  folio. 
London,  1660,  p.'  148.  309.* 

"  We  suppose  ftlr.  Mizald  stole  this  receipt  from  the  kitchen  of  his  infernal 
majesty :  probably  jt .might  have  been  one  of  the  dishes  the  devil  ordered  when  he 
invited  Nero  and  Caligula  to  a  feast-" — A.  C,  Jun. 

This  is  also  related  in  BAPTISTA  PORTA'S  Natural  Ma.<ricke,  fol.  1658,  p.  321. 
This  very  curious  (but  not  scarce)  book  contains,  among  other  strange  tricks  and 
fancies  of  "the  Olden  Time,''  directions,  "  how  to  ROAST  and  BOIL  a  fowl  at  the 
same  time,  so  that  one-half  shall  be.  ROASTED  and  the  other  BOILED  ;  and  "  if  you 
have  a  lacke  of  cooks,  how  to  persuade  a  goose  to  roast  himself  e !  /" — See  a  second  act 
of  the  above  tragedy  in  page  80  of  the  Gentleman's  Magazine  for  January,  1809. 

Many  articles  were  in  vogue  in  the  14th  century,  which  are  now  obsolete.  We 
add  the  following  specimens  of  the  CULINARY  AFFAIRS  OF  DAYS  OF  YORE. 

Sauce  for  a  goose,  Jl.  D.  1381. 

"  Take  a  faire  panne,  and  set  hit  under  the  goose  whill  she  rostes ;  and  kepe  clene 
the  grese  that  droppes  thereof,  and  put  thereto  a  godele  (good  deal)  of  Wyn,  and  a 
litel  vinegur,  and  verjus,  and  onyons  mynced,  or  garlek ;  then  take  the  gottes  (gut) 
of  the  goose  and  slitte  horn,  and  scrape  horn  clene  in  water  and  salt,  and  so  wash 
horn,  and  hack  horn  small,  then  do  all  this  togedur  in  a  piffenet  (pipkin),  and  do 
thereto  raisinges  of  corance,  and  pouder  of  pepur  and  of  ginger,  and  of  canell  and 
hole  clowes  and  maces,  and  let  hit  boyle  and  serve  hit  forthe." 

"That  unvvietdy  marine  animal  the  PORPUS  wJis  dressed  in  a  variety  of  modes, 
salted,  roasted,  stewed,  &c.  Our  ancestors  were  not  singular  in  their  partiality  to 
it;  I  find,  from  an  ingenious  friend  of  mine,  that  it  is  even  now,  A.  D.  1790,  sold  in 
the  markets  of  most  towns  in  Portugal ;  the  flesh  of  it  is  intolerably  hard  and 
rancid." — WARNER'S  Antiq.  Cul.  4to.  p.  15. 

"  The  SWAN!  was  also  a  dish  of  state,  and  in  high  fashion  when  the  elegance  oi 

*  See  note  to  No.  59  how  to  plump  the  liver  of  a  goose. 

t  "It  is  a  curious  illustration  of  the  dc  gustibus  van  eat  disputandumt  that  the 


34  INTRODUCTION. 

the  feast  was  estimated  by  the  magnitude  of  the  articles  of  which  it  was  composed 
the  number  consumed  at  the  Earl  of  Northumberland's  table,  A.  D.  1512,  amounted 
to  twenty."— Northumberland  Household-book,  p.  108. 

"  The  CRANK  was  a  darling  dainty  in  William  the  Conqueror's  time,  and  so  partial 
was  that  monarch  to  it,  that  when  his  prime  favourite,  William  Firz-Osborne,  the 
steward  of  the  household,  served  him  with  a  crane  scarcely  half  roasted,  the  king 
was  so  highly  exasperated,  that  he  lifted  up  his  fist,  and  would  have  strucken  him, 
had  not  Eudo  (appointed  Dapifer  immediately  after)  warded  off  the  blow."— 
WARNER'S  Antiq.  Cul.  p.  12. 

SEALS,  CURLEWS,  HERONS,  BITTERNS,  and  the  PEACOCK,  that  noble  bird,  "  the 
food  of  lovers  and  the  meat  of  lords,"  were  also  at  this  time  in  high  fashion,  when 
the  baronial  entertainments  were  characterized  by  a  grandeur  and  pompous  cere- 
monial, approaching  nearly  to  the  magnificence  of  royalty ;  there  was  scarcely  any- 
royal  or  noble  feast  without  PECOKKKS,  which  were  stuffed  with  spices  and  sweet 
nerbs,  roasted  and  served  up  whole,  and  covered  after  dressing  with  the  skin  and 
feathers ;  the  beak  and  comb  gilt,  and  the  tail  spread,  and  some,  instead  of  the 
feathers,  covered  it  with  leaf  gold  ;  it  was  a  common  dish  on  grand  occasions,  and 
continued  to  adorn  the  English  table  till  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century. 

In  Massinger'a  play  of  "  The  City  Madam,"  Holdfast,  exclaiming  against  city 
luxury,  says,  "  three  fat  wethers  bruised,  to  make  sauce  for  a  single  peacock." 

This  bird  is  one  of  those  luxuries  which  were  often  sought,  because  they  wer<? 
seldom  found:  its  scarcity  and  external  appearance  are  its  only  recommendation; 
the  meat  of  it  is  tough  and  tasteless. 

Another  favourite  dish  at  the  tables  of  our  forefathers,  was  a  PIE  of  stupendous 
magnitude,  out  of  which,  on  its  being  opened,  a  flock  of  living  birds  flew  fortbj  to 
ilie  no  small  surprise  and  amusement  of  the  guests. 

'•'  Four-and-twenty  blackbirds  baked  in  a  pie ; 
When  the  pie  was  open'd,  the  birds  began  to  sing— 
Oh !  what  a  dainty  dish— 'tis  fit  for  any  king." 

This  was  a  common  joke  at  an  old  English  feast.  These  animated  pies  were  often 
introduced  "  to  set  on,"  as  Hamlet  says,  "  a  quantity  of  barren  spectators  to  laugh ;" 
there  is  an  instance  of  a  dwarf  undergoing  such  an  incrustation.  About  the  year 
1630,  king  Charles  and  his  queen  were  emerfained  by  the  duke  and  dutchess  of 
Buckingham,  at  Burleigh  on  the  Hill,  on  which  occasion  JEFFERY  HUDSON,  the 
dwarf,  was  served  up  in  a  cold  pie.— See  WALPOLE'S  Anecdotes  of  Painting,  vol. 
ii.  p.  14. 

The  BARON  OF  BEEF  was  another  favourite  and  substantial  support  of  old  English 
hospitality. 

Among  the  most  polished  nations  of  the  15th  and  16th  centuries,  the  powdered 
(salted)  horse,  seems  to  have  been  a  dish  in  some  esteem?  Grimalkin  herself  could 
not  escape  the  undistinguishing  fury  of  the  cook.  Don  Anthony  of  Guevera,  the 
chronicler  to  Charles  V.,  gives  the  following  account  of  a  feast  at  which  he  was 
present.  "  I  will  tell  you  no  lye,  I  sawe  such  kindes  of  meates  eaten,  as  are  wont 
<o  be  sene,  but  not  eaten — as  a  HO*SE  roasted — a  CAT  in  gely — LYZARDS  in  hot 
brothe,  FROGGES  fried,"  &c. 

While  we  are  thus  considering  the  curious  dishes  of  olden  limes,  we  will  cursorily 
mention  the  singular  diet  of  two  or  three  nations  of  antiquity,  noticed  by  Herodotus', 
lib.  iv.  "  The  Androphagi  (the  cannibals  of  the  ancient  world)  greedily  devoured 
the  carcasses  of  their  fellow-creatures ;  while  the  inoffensive  Cabri  (a  Scythian 
tribe)  found  both  food  and  drink  in  the  agreeable  nut  of  the  Pontic  tree.  The  Lo- 
lophagi  lived  entirely  on  the  fruit  of  the  l^otus  tree.  The  savage  Troglodyte 
esteemed  a  living  serpent  the  most  delicate  of  all  morsels ;  while  the  capricious* 
palate  of  the  Zijguntini  preferred  the  ape  to  every  thing."— Vide  WARNER'S  Antiq 
Cul.  p.  135. 

u  The  Romans,  in  the  luxurious  period  of  their  empire,  took  five  meals  a  day ;  r; 
breakfast  (jentaculum ;)  a  dinner,  which  was  a  light  meal  without  any  formal  pre- 
paration (prandium) ;  a  kind  of  tea,  as  we  should  call  it,  between  dinner  and  supper 
(mercnda} ;  a  supper  (c<r?ia),  which  was  their  great  meal,  and  commonly  consisted 
of  two  courses ;  the  first  of  meats,  the  second,  what  we  call  a  dessert ;  and  a  posset, 

;incients  considered  the  swan  as  a  high  delicacy,  and  abstained  from  the  flesh  of  thr 
goose  as  impure  and  indigestible." — MOUURAY  on  Poultry,  p,  36. 


INTRODUCTION.  35 

or  something  delicious  after  supper  (commissatio)."— ADAM'S  Rom.Antiq.  2d  edi- 
tion, 8vo.  1792,  p.  434  and  447. 

•'The  Romans  usually  began  their  entertainments  with  eggs,  and  ended  with 
fruits ;  hence,  AB  ovo  USQUE  AD  MALA,  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  supper, 
Horat.  Sat.  i.  3.  6  ;  Cic.  Fam.  ix.  20. 

"  The  dishes  (edulia)  held  in  the  highest  estimation  by  the  Romans,  are  enume- 
rated, Oell.  vii.  16,  Macrob.  Sat.  ii.  9,  Martial,  v.  79,  ix.  48,  xi.  53,  &c.,  a  peacock 
(PAVO),  Horat.  Sat.  ii.  2. 23,  Juvenal,  i.  143,  first  used  by  Hortensius,  the  orator,  at 
a  supper,  which  he  gave  when  admitted  into  the  college  of  priests,  (aditiali  cand 
sacerdotii,')  Plin'.  x.  20,  s.  23;  a  pheasant,  (PHASIANA,  ex  Phasi,  Colckidis  fluvio,} 
Martial,  iii.  58,  xiii.  72,  Senec.  ad  Helv.  9,  Petron.  79,  Manil.  v.  372 :  a  bird  called 
.Ittagen  vel-eno,  from  Ionia  or  Phrygia,  Horat.  Epod.  ii.  54,  Martial,  xiii.  iii.  61,  a 
guinea-hen,  (avis  Jlfra,  Horat.  ib.  Gallina  JVumidica  vel  Jifricana,  Juvenal,  xi. 
142,  Martial,  xiii.  73) ;  a  Melian  crane ;  an  Ambracian  kid ;  nightingales,  luscinie , 
thrushes,  turdi;  ducks,  geese,  &c.  TOMACULUM,  (d  T£nvu),}.vel  ISICIUM,  (ab  inseea;) 
sausages  or  puddings,  Juvenal,  x.  355.  Martial.  42.  9,  Petron.  31."— Vide  ibid. 
p.  447. 

That  the  English  reader  may  be  enabled  to  form  some  idea  of  the  heterogeneous 
messes  with  which  the  Roman  palate  was  delighted,  I  introduce  the  following 
receipt  from  Jlpidus. 

"  THICK  SAUCE  FOR  A  BOILED  CHICKEN. — Put  the  following  ingredients  into  a 
mortar :  aniseed,  dried  mint,  and  lazar-root  (similar  to  assatcetida),  cover  them  with 
vinegar ;  add  dates ;  pour  in  liquamen,  oil,  and  a  small  quantity  of  mustard  seeds ; 
reduce  all  to  a  proper  thickness  with  port  wine  warmed ;  and  then  pour  this  same 
over  your  chicken,  which  should  previously  be  boiled  in  anise-seed  water." 

Liquamen  and  Garum  were  synonymous  terms  for  the  same  thing ;  the  former 
adopted  in  the  room  of  the  latter,  about  the  age  of  Aurelian.  It  was  a  liquid,  and 
thus  prepared :  the  guts  of  large  fish,  and  a  variety  of  small  fish,  were  put  into  a 
vessel  and  well  salted,  and  exposed  to  the  sun  till  they  became  putrid.  A  liquor  was 
produced  in  a  short  time,  which  being  strained  off,  was  the  liquamen.— Vide  LISTER 
in  Apicium,  p.  16,  notes. 

Essence  of  anchovy,  as  it  is  usually  made  for  sale,  when  it  has  been  opened  about 
ten  days,  is  not  much  unlike  the  Roman  liquamen.  See  No.  433.  Some  suppose  it 
was  the  same  thing  as  the  Russian  Caviar,  which  is  prepared  from  the  roe  of  the 
sturgeon. 

The  BLACK  BROTH  of  Laccd(f.mon  will  long  continue  to  excite  the  wonder  of  the 
philosopher,  and  the  disgust  of  the  epicure.  What  the  ingredients  of  this  sable 
composition  were,  we  cannot  exactly  ascertain.  Jul.  Pollux  says,  the  Lacedsemo- 
nian  black  broth  was  blood,  thickened  in  a  certain  way :  Dr.  LISTER  (in  Apicium) 
supposes  it  to  have  been  hog1  s  blood;  if  so,  this  celebrated  Spartan  dish  bore  no 
very  distant  resemblance  to  the  black-puddings  of  our  days.  It  could  not  be  a  very 
alluring  mess,  since  a  citizen  of  Sybaris  having  tasted  it,  declared  it  was  no  longer 
a  matter  of  astonishment  with  him,  why  the  Spartans  were  so  fearless  of  death, 
since  any  one  in  his  senses  would  much  rather  die,  than  exist  on  such  execrable 
food.— Vide  Athen&um,  lib.  iv.  c.  3.  When  Dionysius  the  tyrant  had  tasted  the 
black  broth,  he  exclaimed  against  it  as  miserable  stuff;  the  cook  replied—"  It  wa« 
no  wonder,  for  the  sauce  was  wanting."  "What  sauce  7"  says  Dionysius.  The 
answer  was, — "  Labour  and  exercise,  hunger  and  thirst,  these  are  the  sauces  ice 
Lacedfemonians  iiae"  and  they  make  the  coarsest  fare  agreeable.— CICERO,  3  TuscuL 


INVITATIONS  TO  DINNER 


IN  "  the  affairs  of  the  mouth"  the  strictest  punctuality  is 
indispensable ;  the  GASTRONOMER  ought  to  be  as  accurate  aii 
observer  of  time,  as  the  ASTRONOMER.  The  least  delay  pro- 
duces  fatal  and  irreparable  misfortunes. 

Almost  all  other  ceremonies  and  civil  duties  may  be  put 
off  for  several  hours  without  much  inconvenience,  and  all 
may  be  postponed  without  absolute  danger.  A  little  delay 
may  try  the  patience  of  those  who  are  waiting ;  but  the  act 
itself  will  be  equally  perfect  and  equally  valid.  Procrasti- 
nation sometimes  is  rather  advantageous  than  prejudicial. 
It  gives  time  for  reflection,  and  may  prevent  our  taking  a 
step  which  would  have  made  us  miserable  for  life ;  the  delay 
of  a  courier  has  prevented  the  conclusion  of  a  convention, 
the  signing  of  which  might  have  occasioned  the  ruin  of  a 
nation. 

If,  from  affairs  the  most  important,  we  descend  to  our 
pleasures  and  amusements,  we  shall  find  new  arguments  in 
support  of  our  assertions.  The  putting  off  of  a  rendezvous, 
or  a  ball,  &c.  will  make  them  the  more  delightful.  To  hope 
is  to  enjoy. 

"  Man  never  is,  but  always  to  be  blest." 

The  anticipation  of  pleasure  warms  our  imagination,  and 
keeps  those  feelings  alive,  which  possession  too  often  extin- 
guishes. 

"  'T  is  expectation  only  makes  us  blest ; 
Enjoyment  disappoints  us  at  the  best." 

1  Dr.  Johnson  has  most  sagaciously  said ;  "  Such  is  the  state 
of  life,  that  none  are  happy,  but  by  the  anticipation  of 
change :  the  change  itself  is  nothing :  when  we  have  made 
it,  the  next  wish  is,  immediately  to  change  again." 

However  singular  our  assertions  may  have  at  first  ap- 
peared to  those  who  have  not  considered  the  subject,  we 
hope  by  this  time  we  have  made  converts  of  our  readers, 
and  convinced  the  "  Amateurs  de  Bonne  Chere"  of  the  truth 
and  importance  of  our  remarks ;  and  that  they  will  remem- 
ber, that  DINNER  is  the  only  act  of  the  day  which  cannot  be 
put  off  with  impunity,  for  even  FIVE  MINUTES. 


INVITATIONS   TO   DINNEB.  *>< 

In  a  well-regulated  family,  all  the  clocks  and  watches 
should  agree ;  on  this  depends  the  fate  of  the  dinner ;  what 
would  be  agreeable  to  the  stomach,  and  restorative  to  the 
system,  if  served  at  FIVE  o'clock,  will  be  uneatable  and  in- 
nutritive  and  indigestible  at  A  QUARTER  PAST. 

The  dining-room  should  be  furnished  with  a  good-going 
clock ;  the  space  over  the  kitchen  fire-place  with  another, 
vibrating  in  unison  with  the  former,  so  placed,  that  the  cook 
may  keep  one  eye  on  the  clock,  and  the  other  on  the  spit, 
&c.  She  will  calculate  to  a  minute  the  time  required  to 
roast  a  large  capon  or  a  little  lark,  and  is  equally  attentive 
to  the  degree  of  heat  of  her  stove,  and  the  time  her  sauce 
remains  on  it,  when  to  withdraw  the  bakings  from  the  oven, 
the  roast  from  the  spit,  and  the  stew  from  the  pan. 

With  all  our  love  of  punctuality,  the  first  consideration 
must  still  be,  that  the  dinner  "  be  well  done,  when  't  is  done." 

It  is  a  common  fault  with  cooks  who  are  anxious  about 
time,  to  overdress  every  thing — the  guests  had  better  wait 
than  the  dinner — a  little  delay  will  improve  their  appetite ; 
but  if  the  dinner  waits  for  the  guests,  it  will  be  deteriorated 
every  minute :  the  host  who  wishes  to  entertain  his  friends 
with  food  perfectly  well  dressed,  while  he  most  earnestly 
endeavours  to  impress  on  their  minds  the  importance  of 
oeing  punctual  to  the  appointed  hour,  will  still  allow  his  cook 
a  quarter  of  an  hour's  grace. 

The  old  adage  that  "  the  eye  is  often  bigger  than  the 
belly,"  is  often  verified  by  the  ridiculous  vanity  of  those 
who  wish  to  make  an  appearance  above  their  fortune. 
Nothing  can  be  more  ruinous  to  real  comfort  than  the  too 
common  custom  of  setting  out  a  table,  with  a  parade  and  a 
profusion,  unsuited  not  only  to  the  circumstances  of  the 
hosts,  but  to  the  number  of  the  guests;  or  more  fatal  to 
true  hospitality,  than  the  multiplicity  of  dishes  which  luxury 
has  made  fashionable  at  the  tables  of  the  great,  the  wealthy, 
and  the  ostentatious,  who  are,  often,  neither  great  nor 
wealthy. 

Such  pompous  preparation,  instead  of  being  a  compliment 
to  our  guests,  is  nothing  better  than  an  indirect  offence ;  it  is 
a  tacit  insinuation,  that  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  provide 
such  delicacies  to  bribe  the  depravity  of  their  palates,  when 
we  desire  the  pleasure  of  their  company ;  and  that  society 
now,  must  be  purchased,  at  the  same  price  SWIFT  told 
POPE  he  was  obliged  to  pay  for  it  in  Ireland.  "  I  should 
hardly  prevail  to  find  one  visiter,  if  I  were  not  able  to  hire 
him  with  a  bottle  of  wine."  Vide  Swift's  letters  to  Pope, 
July  10th,  1732. 

D 


38  INVITATIONS   TO   DINNER. 

When  t\vice  as  much  cooking  is  undertaken  as  there  are 
servants,  or  conveniences  in  the  kitchen  to  do  it  properly, 
dishes  must  be  dressed  long  before  the  dinner  hour,  and 
stand  by  spoiling — the  poor  cook  loses  her  credit;  and  the 
poor  guests  get  indigestions.  Why  prepare  for  eight  or  ten 
friends,  more  than  sufficient  for  twenty  or  thirty  visiters  1 
"  Enough  is  as  good  as  a  feast,"  and  a  prudent  provider,  who 
sensibly  takes  measure  of  the  stomachic,  instead  of  the 
SILLY  ocular,  appetite  of  his  guests,  may  entertain  his 
friends,  three  times  as  often,  and  ten  times  as  well. 

It  is  your  SENSELESS  SECOND  COURSES— ridiculous  variety 
of  WINES,  LIQUEURS,  ICES,*  DESSERTS,  &c. — which  are  served 
up  merely  to  feed  the  eye,  or  pamper  palled  appetite,  that 
overcome  the  stomach  and  paralyze  digestion,  and  seduce 
"  children  of  a  larger  growth"  to  sacrifice  the  health  and 
comfort  of  several  days,  for  the  baby-pleasure  of  tickling 
their  tongue  for  a  few  minutes,  with  trifles  and  custards ! ! ! 
&c.  &c. 

"  INDIGESTION  will  sometimes  overtake  the  most  experi- 
enced epicure;  when  the  gustatory  nerves  are  in  good 
humour,  hunger  and  savoury  viands  will  sometimes  seduce 
the  tongue  of  a  '  grand  gourmand?  to  betray  the  interests  of 
his  stomach  in  spite  of  his  brains. 

"On  such  an  unfortunate  occasion,  when  the  stomach 
sends  forth  eructantt  signals  of  distress,  the  peristaltic  per- 
suaders are  as  agreeable  and  effectual  assistance  as  can  be 
offered ;  and  for  delicate  constitutions,  and  those  that  are 
impaired  by  age  or  intemperance,  are  a  valuable  panacea. 

"  They  derive,  and  deserve  this  name,  from  the  peculiar 
mildness  of  their  operation.  One  or  two  very  gently  in- 
crease the  action  of  the  principal  viscera,  help  them  to  do 
their  work  a  little  faster,  and  enable  the  stomach  to  serve 
with  an  ejectment  whatever  offends  it,  and  move  it  into  the 
bowels. 

'*  Thus  indigestion  is  easily  and  speedily  removed,  appe- 
tite restored,  the  mouths  of  the  absorbing  vessels  being 
cleansed,  nutrition  is  facilitated,  and  strength  of  body,  and 
energy  of  mind,  are  the  happy  results."  See  "PEPTIC 
PRECEPTS,"  from  which  we  extract  the  following  prescrip- 
tion— 

*  Swilling  cold  soda  water  immediately  after  eating  a  hearty  dinner,  is  another 
very  unwholesome  custom— take  good  ginger  beer  if  you  are  thirsty,  and  don't  lik«> 
Sir  John  Barleycorn's  cordial. 

t  Strong  peppermint  or  ginger  lozenges  are  an  excellent  help  for  that  flatulence 
with  which  some  aged  and  dyspeptic  people  are  afflicted  three  or  four  hours  after 
dinner. 


INVITATIONS   TO   DINNEH,  39 

To  make  FORTY  PERISTALTIC  PERSUADERS, 
Take 

Turkey  rhubarb,  finely  pulverized,  two  drachms, 

Syrup  (by  weight),  one  drachm, 

Oil  of  carraway,  ten  drops  (minims), 

Made  into  pills,  each  of  which  will'contain  three  grains  of  rhv&arb, 

"  The  DOSE  OF  THE  PERSUADERS  must  be  adapted  to  tlie 
constitutional  peculiarity  of  the  patient.  When  you  wish  to 
accelerate  or  augment  the  alvine  exoneration,  take  two, 
three,  or  more,  according  to  the  effect  you  desire  to  produce. 
Two  pills  will  do  as  much  for  one  person,  as^e  or  six  will 
for  another :  they  will  generally  very  regularly  perform  what 
you  wish  to-day,  without  interfering  with  what  you  hope 
will  happen  to-morrow ;  and  are  therefore  as  convenient  an 
argument  against  constipation  as  any  we  are  acquainted 
with. 

"  The  most  convenient  opportunity  to  introduce  them  to 
the  stomach,  is  early  in  the  morning,  when  it  is  unoccupied, 
and  has  no  particular  business  of  digestion,  &c.  to  attend 
to — i.  e.  at  least  half  an  hour  before  breakfast.  Physic- 
must  never  interrupt  the  stomach,  when  it  is  busy  in  digest- 
ing  food. 

"  From  two  to  four  persuaders  will  generally  produce  one 
additional  motion,  within  twelve  hours.  They  may  be  taken 
at  any  time  by  the  most  delicate  females,  whose  constitutions 
are  so  often  distressed  by  constipation,  and  destroyed  by  the 
drastic  purgatives  they  take  to  relieve  it." 

The  cloth*  should  be  laid  in  the  parlour,  and  all  the  para- 
phernalia of  the  dinner-table  completely  arranged,  at  least 
half  an  hour  before  dinner-time. 

The  cook's  labour  will  be  lost,  if  the  parlour-table  be  not 
ready  for  action,  and  the  eaters  ready  for  the  eatables,  which 
the  least  delay  will  irreparably  injure  :  therefore,  the  GOUR- 
MAND will  be  punctual  for  the  sake  of  gratifying  his  ruling- 
passion  ;  the  INVALID,  to  avoid  the  danger  of  encountering 
an  indigestion  from  eating  ill-dressed  food;  and  the  RATIONAL 
EPICURE,  who  happily  attends  the  banquet  with  "  mens  sana 
in  corpore  scmo,"  will  keep  the  time  not  only  for  these  strong 
reasons,  but  that  he  may  not  lose  the  advantage  of  being 


*  Le  Grand  Somrbelier,  or  CHIEF  BUTLER,  in  former  times  was  expected  to  be 
especially  accomplished  in  the  art  of  folding  table  linen,  so  as  to  lay  his  napkins  iu 
different  forms  every  day :  these  transformations  are  particularly  described  in  ROSE'S 
Instructions  for  the  Officers  of  the  Mouth,  1682,  p.  Ill,  &c.  "To  pleat  a  napkin  in 
the  form  of  a  cockle-shell  double" — "  in  the  form  of  hen  and  chickens" — "  shape 
of  two  capons  in  a  pye"^or  "like  a  dog  with  a  collar  about  his  neck"— and  many 
ethers  equally  whimsical. 


49  INVITATIONS   TO  DINNER, 

introduced  to  the  other  guests.  He  considers  not  only  what 
is  on  the  table,  but  who  are  around  it :  his  principal  induce- 
ment to  leave  his  own  fireside,  is  the  charm  of  agreeable 
and  instructive  society,  and  the  opportunity  of  making  con- 
nexions, which  may  augment  the  interest  and  enjoyment  of 
existence. 

It  is  the  most  pleasing  part  of  the  duty  of  the  master  of 
the  feast  (especially  when  the  guests  are  not  very  numerous), 
to  take  advantage  of  these  moments  to  introduce  them  to 
one  another,  naming  them  individually  in  an  audible  voice, 
and  adroitly  laying  hold  of  those  ties  of  acquaintanceship  or 
profession  which  may  exist  between  them. 

This  will  much  augment  the  pleasures  of  the  festive  board, 
to  which  it  is  indeed  as  indispensable  a  prelude,  as  an  over- 
ture is  to  an  opera:  and  the  host  will  thus  acquire  an  addi- 
tional claim  to  the  gratitude  of  his  guests.  We  urge  this 
point  more  strongly,  because,  from  want  of  attention  to  it, 
we  have  seen  more  than  once  persons  whom  many  kindred 
ties  would  have  drawn  closely  together,  pass  an  entire 
day  without  opening  their  lips  to  each  other,  because  they 
were  mutually  ignorant  of  each  other's  names,  professions, 
and  pursuits. 

To  put  an  end  at  once  to  all  ceremony  as  to  the  order  in 
which  the  guests  are  to  sit,  it  will  save  much  time  and 
trouble,  if  the  mistress  of  the  mansion  adopts  the  simple 
and  elegant  method  of  placing  the  name  of  each  guest  in 
the  plate  which  is  intended  for  him.  This  proceeding  will 
be  of  course  the  result  of  consideration,  and  the  host  will 
place  those  together  whom  he  thinks  will  harmonize  best. 

Le  Journal  des  Dames  informs  us,  that  in  several  fashionable 
houses  in  Paris,  a  new  arrangement  has  been  introduced  in 
placing  the  company  at  a  dinner-table. 

"  The  ladies  first  take  their  places,  leaving  intervals  for 
the  gentlemen ;  after  being  seated,  each  is  desired  to  call  on 
a  gentleman  to  sit  beside  her ;  and  thus  the  lady  of  the  house 
is  relieved  from  all  embarrassment  of  etiquette  as  to  rank 
and  pretensions,"  &c. 

But,  without  doubt,  says  the  Journalist,  this  method  has 
its  inconveniences. 

"  It  may  happen  that  a  bashful  beauty  dare  not  name  the 
object  of  her  secret  wishes  ;  and  an  acute  observer  may  de- 
termine, from  a  single  glance,  that  the  elected  is  not  always 
the  chosen.11 

If  the  party  is  large,  the  founders  of  the  feast  may  sit  in 
the  middle  of  the  table,  instead  of  at  each  end,  thus  they 
will  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  attending  equally  to  all  their 


INVITATIONS    TO    DINNER.  41 

friends ;  and  being  in  some  degree  relieved  from  the  occu- 
pation of  carving,  will  have  an  opportunity  of  administering 
all  those  little  attentions  which  contribute  so  much  to  the 
comfort  of  their  guests. 

If  the  GUESTS  have  any  respect  for  their  HOST,  or 
prefer  a  well-dressed  dinner  to  one  that  is  spoiled,  instead 
of  coming  half  an 'hour  after,  they  will  take  care  to  make 
their  appearance  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  the  time 
appointed. 

The  operations  of  the  cook  are  governed  by  the  clock ;  the 
moment  the  roasts,  &c.  are  ready,  they  must  go  to  the  table, 
if  they  are  to  be  eaten  in  perfection. 

An  invitation  to  come  at  FIVE  o'clock  seems  to  be  gene- 
rally understood  to  mean  six  ;  FIVE  PRECISELY,  hay  past  five; 
and  NOT  LATER  THAN  FIVE  (so  that  dinner  may  be  on  the 
table  within  five  minutes  after,  allowing  this  for  the  variation 
of  watches),  FIVE  O'CLOCK  EXACTLY. 

Be  it  known  to  all  loyal  subjects  of  the  empire  of  good- 
living,  that  the  COMMITTEE  OF  TASTE  have  unanimously 
resolved,  that  "  an  invitation  to  ETA.  BETA.  PI.  must  be  in 
writing,  and  sent  at  least  ten  days  before  the  banquet ;  and 
must  be  answered  in  writing  (as  soon  as  possible  after  it 
is  received),  within  twenty-four  hours  at  least,"  espe- 
cially if  it  be  not  accepted :  then,  in  addition  to  the  usual 
complimentary  expressions  of  thanks,  &c.  the  best  possible 
reasons  must  be  assigned  for  the  non-acceptance,  as  a  parti- 
cular pre-engagement,  or  severe  indisposition,  &c.  Before 
the  bearer  of  it  delivers  it,  he  should  ascertain  if  the  person 
it  is  directed  to  is  at  home ;  if  he  is  not,  when  he  will  be ; 
and  if  he  is  not  in  town,  to  bring  the  summons  back. 

Nothing  can  be  more  disobliging  than  a  refusal  which  in 
not  grounded  on  some  very  strong  and  unavoidable  cause, — 
except  not  coming  at  the  appointed  hour; — "  according  to  the 
laws  of  conviviality,  a  certificate  from  a  sheriff's  officer,  a 
doctor,  or  an  undertaker,  are  the  only  pleas  which  are  admis- 
sible. The  duties  which  invitation  imposes  do  not  fall  only 
on  the  persons  invited,  but,  like  all  other  social  duties,  are 
reciprocal. 

"  As  he  who  has  accepted  an  invitation  cannot  disengage 
himself  from  it;  the  master  of  the  feast  cannot  put  off  the 
entertainment  on  any  pretence  whatever.  Urgent  business, 
sickness,  not  even  death  itself,  can  dispense  with  the  obliga- 
tion which  he  is  under  of  giving  the  entertainment  for  which 
he  has  sent  out  invitations,  which  have  been  accepted ;  for 
in  the  extreme  cases  of  compulsory  absence,  or  death,  his 
place  may  be  filled  by  his  friend  or  executor." — Vide  le 

D2 


42  MANNERS. 

Manuel  des  Amphitryans,  8vo.  Pans,  1808 ;  and  Cours  Gastro- 
nomique,  1809;  to  which  the  reader  is  referred  for  farther 
instructions. 

It  is  the  least  punishment  that  a  blundering1,  ill-bred  boob} 
can  receive,  who  comes  half  an  hour  after  the  time  he  was 
bidden,  to  find  the  soup  removed,  and  the  fish  cold :  more- 
over, for  such  an  offence,  let  him  also  be  mulcted  in  a  pecu- 
niary penalty,  to  be  applied  to  the  FUND  FOR  THE  BENEFIT  01 
DECAYED  COOKS.  This  is  the  least  punishment  that  can  bo 
inflicted  on  one  whose  silence,  or  violation  of  an  engagement, 
tends  to  paralyze  an  entertainment,  and  to  draw  his  friend 
into  useless  expense. 

BOILEAU,  the  French  satirist,  has  a  shrewd  observation  on 
this  subject.  "  I  have  always  been  punctual  at  the  hour  of 
dinner,"  says  the  bard ;  "  for  I  knew,  that  all  those  whom  I 
kept  waiting-  at  that  provoking  interval,  would  employ  those 
unpleasant  moments  to  sum  up  all  my  faults. — BOILEAU  is: 
indeed  a  man  of  genius,  a  very  honest  man ;  but  that  dila- 
tory and  procrastinating  way  he  has  got  into,  would  mar  the 
virtues  of  an  angel." 

There  are  some  who  seldom  keep  an  appointment :  we 
can  assure  them  they  as  seldom  "  'scape  without  whipping," 
and  exciting  those  murmurs  which  inevitably  proceed  from 
the  best-regulated  stomachs,  when  they  are  empty,  and  im- 
patient to  be  filled. 

The  most  amiable  animals  when  hungry  become  ill-tem- 
pered :  our  best  friends  employ  the  time  they  are  kept  wait- 
ing, in  recollecting  and  repeating  any  real  faults  we  have, 
and  attributing  to  us  a  thousand  imaginary  ones. 

Ill-bred  beings,  who  indulge  their  own  caprice,  regard- 
less how  they  wound  the  feelings  of  others,  if  they  possess 
brilliant  and  useful  talents,  may  occasionally  be  endured 
as  convenient  tools ;  but  deceive  themselves  sadly,  evert 
though  they  possess  all  the  wisdom,  and  all  the  wit  in 
the  world,  if  they  fancy  they  can  ever  be  esteemed  as 
friends. 

Wait  for  no  one :  as  soon  as  the  clock  strikes,  say  grace, 
and  begin  the  business  of  the  day, 

"  And  good  digestion  wait  on  appetite, 
And  health  on  both." 


MANNERS   MAKE   THE   MAN. 

Good  manners  have  often  made  the  fortune  of  many,  who 
have  had  nothing  else  to  recommend  them : 


CARVING.  43 

111  manners  have  as  often  marred  the  hope  of  those  who 
have  had  every  thing  else  to  advance  them. 

These  regulations  may  appear  a  little  rigorous  to  those 
phlegmatic  philosophers, 

"  Who,  past  all  pleasures,  damn  the  joys  of  sense, 
With  rev'rend  dulness  and  grave  impotence," 

and  are  incapable  of  comprehending  the  importance  (espe- 
cially when  many  are  invited)  of  a  truly  hospitable  entertain- 
ment :  but  genuine  connoisseurs  in  the  science  of  good  cheer 
will  vote  us  thanks  for  our  endeavours  to  initiate  well-dis- 
posed amateurs. 

CARVING. 

Ceremony  does  not,  in  any  thing,  more  commonly  and 
completely  triumph  over  comfort,  than  in  the  administration 
of  "  the  honours  of  the  table." 

Those  who  serve  out  the  loaves  and  fishes  seldom  seem 
to  understand  that  he  is  the  best  carver  who  fills  the  plates 
of  the  greatest  number  of  guests,  in  the  least  portion  of 
time. 

To  effect  this,  fill  the  plates  and  send  them  round,  instead 
of  asking  each  individual  if  they  choose  soup,  fish,  &c.  or 
what  particular  part  they  prefer ;  for,  as  they  cannot  all  be 
choosers,  you  will  thus  escape  making  any  invidious  dis- 
tinctions. 

A  dexterous  CARVER*  (especially  if  he  be  possessed  with 
that  determined  enemy  to  ceremony  and  sauce,  a  keen  appe- 
tite,) will  help  half  a  dozen  people  in  half  the  time  one  of 
your  would-be-thought  polite  folks  wastes  in  making  civil 
faces,  &c.  to  a  single  guest. 

It  would  save  a  great  deal  of  time,  &c.  if  POULTRY,  espe- 
cially large  turkeys  and  geese,  were  sent  to  table  ready  cut 
up.  (No.  530.|) 

FISH  that  is  fried  should  be  previously  divided  into  such 
portions  as  are  fit  to  help  at  table.  (See  No.  145.) 

A  prudent  carver  will  cut  fair,t  observe  an  equitable 

*  In  days  of  yore  "  Le  Grand  Ecuyer  Tranchant,"  or  the  MASTER  CARVER,  was 
the  next  officer  of  the  mouth  in  rank  to  the  "  Maitre  d'H6tel,"  and  the  technical 
terms  of  his  art  were  as  singular  as  any  of  those  which  ornament  "  Grose's  Classical 
Slang  Dictionary,"  or  "The  Gipsies'  Gibberish:"  the  only  one  of  these  old  phrases 
now  in  common  use  is,  "  cut  up  the  TURKEY  :" — we  are  no  longer  desired  to  "  dis- 
figure a  PKACOCK" — "  unbrace  a  DUCK" — "unlace  a  CONEY" — "tame  a  CRAB"— 
11  tire  an  EGG"— and  "spoil  the  HKN,"  &c.— See  Instructions  for  the  Officers  of  the 
Mouth,  by  ROSE,  1682. 

t  Those  in  the  parlour  should  recollect  the  importance  of  setting  a  good  exampJ* 
to  their  friends  at  the  second  table.  If  they  cut  bread,  meat,  cheese,  &c.  FAIRLY,,  it, 


44  CARVING, 

distribution  of  the  dainties  he  is  serving  out,  and  regulate 
his  helps,  by  the  proportion  which  his  dish  bears  to  the  num- 
ber he  has  to  divide  it  among,  taking  into  this  reckoning 
the  quantum  of  appetite  the  several  guests  are  presumed  to 
possess. 

"  Study  their  genius,  caprices,  go&t— 
They,  in  return,  may  hapiy  study  you: 
Some  wish  a  pinion,  some  prefer  a  leg, 
Some  for  a  merry-  thought,  or  sidesbone  beg, 
The  wings  of  fowls,  then  slices  of  the  round 
The  trail  of  woodcock,  of  codfish  the  sound. 
Let  strict  impartiality  preside, 
Nor  freak,  nor  favour,  nor  affection  guide." 

From  the  BANQUET. 

The  guest  who  wishes  to  ensure  a  hearty  welcome,  and 
frequent  invitation  to  the  board  of  hospitality,  may  calcu- 
late that  the  "  easier  he  is  pleased,  the  oftener  he  will  be 
invited."  Instead  of  unblushingly  demanding  of  the  fair 
hostess  that  the  prime  "  tit-bit"  of  every  dish  be  put  on  your 
plate,  receive  (if  not  with  pleasure,  or  even  content)  with 
the  liveliest  expressions  of  thankfulness  whatever  is  pre- 
sented to  you,  and  forget  not  to  praise  the  cook,  and  the 
same  shall  be  reckoned  unto  you  even  as  the  praise  of  the 
mistress. 

The  invalid  or  the  epicure,  when  he  dines  out,  to  save 
trouble  to  his  friends,  may  carry  with  him  a  portable  MAGA- 
ZINE OP  TASTE.  (See  No.  462.) 

"  If  he  does  not  like  his  fare,  he  may  console  himself  with 
the  reflection,  that  he  need  not  expose  his  mouth  to  the  like 
mortification  again :  mercy  to  the  feelings  of  the  mistress 
of  the  mansion  will  forbid  his  then  appearing  otherwise  than 
absolutely  delighted  with  it,  notwithstanding  it  may  be  his 
extreme  antipathy." 

"  If  he  likes  it  ever  so  little,  he  will  find  occasion  to  con- 
gratulate himself  on  the  advantage  his  digestive  organs  will 
derive  from  his  making  a  moderate  dinner,  and  consolation 
from  contemplating  the  double  relish  he  is  creating  for  the 
following  meal,  and  anticipating  the  (to  him)  rare  and  deli- 
cious zest  of  (that  best  sauce)  good  appetite,  and  an  un- 
restrained indulgence  of  his  gormandizing  fancies  at  the 
chop-house  he  frequents." 

"  Never  intrust  a  cook-teaser  with  the  important  office  of 
CARVER,  or  place  him  within  reach  of  a  sauce-boat.  These 
chop-house  cormorants,  who 

will  go  twice  as  far  as  if  they  hack  and  mangle  it,  as  if  they  had  not  half  so  murli 
consideration  fur  those  in  the  kitchen  as  a  good  sportsman  has  for  his  dogs. 


CARVING.  45 

1  Critique  your  wine,  and  analyze  your  meat, 
Yet  on  plain  pudding  deign  at  home  to  eat,' 

are,  generally,  tremendously  officious  in  serving  out  the 
loaves  and  fishes  of  other  people ;  for,  under  the  notion  of 
appearing  exquisitely  amiable,  and  killingly  agreeable  to  the 
guests,  they  are  ever  on  the  watch  to  distribute  themselves 
the  dainties  which  it  is  the  peculiar  part  of  the  master  and 
mistress  to  serve  out,  and  is  to  them  the  most  pleasant  part 
of  the  business  of  the  banquet :  the  pleasure  of  helping  their 
friends  is  the  gratification,  which  is  their  reward  for  the 
trouble  they  have  had  in  preparing  the  feast.  Such  gentry 
are  the  terror  of  all  good  housewives:  to  obtain  their 
favourite  cut  they  will  so  unmercifully  mangle  your  joints, 
that  a  dainty  dog  would  hardly  get  a  meal  from  them  after ; 
which,  managed  by  the  considerative  hands  of  an  old  house- 
keeper, would  furnish  a  decent  dinner  for  a  large  family.". 
— Vide  "  Almanack  des  Gourmands." 

1  once  heard  a  gentle  hint  on  this  subject,  given  to  a  6/we- 
mould  fancier,  who  by  looking  too  long  at  a  Stilton  cheese, 
was  at  last  completely  overcome,  by  his  eye  exciting  his 
appetite,  till  it  became  quite  ungovernable ;  and  unconscious 
of  every  thing  but  the  mity  object  of  his  contemplation,  he 
began  to  pick  out,  in  no  small  portions,  the  primest  parts  his 
eye  could  select  from  the  centre  of  the  cheese. 

The  good-natured  founder  of  the  feast,  highly  amused  at 
the  ecstasies  each  morsel  created  in  its  passage  over  the 
palate  of  the  enraptured  gourmand,  thus  encouraged  the  per- 
severance of  his  guest — "  Cut  away,  my  dear  sir,  cut  away, 
use  no  ceremony,  I  pray :  I  hope  you  will  pick  out  all  the 
best  of  my  cheese.  Don't  you  think  that  THE  RIND  and  the 
ROTTEN  will  do  very  well  for  my  wife  and  family ! .'"  There 
is  another  set  of  terribly  free  and  easy  folks,  who  are  "  fond 
of  taking  possession  of  the  throne  of  domestic  comfort," 
and  then,  with  all  the  impudence  imaginable,  simper  out  to 
the  ousted  master  of  the  family,  "  Dear  me,  I  am  afraid  I 
have  taken  your  place !" 

Half  the  trouble  of  WAITING  AT  TABLE  may  be  saved  by 
giving  each  guest  two  plates,  two  knives  and  forks,  two 
pieces  of  bread,  a  spoon,  a  wine-glass,  and  a  tumbler,  and 
placing  the  wines  and  sauces,  and  the  MAGAZINE  OF  TASTE, 
(No.  462,)  &c.  as  a  dormant,  in  the  centre  of  the  table ;  one 
neighbour  may  then  help  another. 

Dinner-tables  are  seldom  sufficiently  lighted,  or  attended. 
\n  active  waiter  will  have  enough  to  do  to  attend  upon 
half  a  dozen  active  eaters.  There  should  be  about  half  as 
many  can-dies  as  there  are  guests,  and  their  flame  bo  about 


46  FRIENDLY   ADVICE   TO   COOKS. 

eighteen  inches  above  the  table-  Our  foolish  modern  pom* 
pous  candelabras  seem  intended  to  illuminate  the  ceiling, 
rather  than  to  give  light  on  the  plates,  &c. 

Wax  lights  at  dinner  are  much  more  elegant,  and  not  so 
troublesome  and  so  uncertain  as  lamps,  nor  so  expensive ; 
for  to  purchase  a  handsome  lamp  will  cost  you  more  than 
will  furnish  you  with  wax  candles  for  several  years. 


FRIENDLY  ADVICE  TO  COOKS,* 

AND  OTHER 

SERVANTS 


ON  your  first  coming  into  a  family,  lose  no  time  in  imme- 
diately getting  into  the  good  graces  of  your  fellow-servants, 
that  you  may  learn  from  them  the  customs  of  the  kitchen, 
and  the  various  rules  and  orders  of  the  house. 

Take  care  to  be  on  good  terms  with  the  servant  who  wait? 
at  table ;  make  use  of  him  as  your  sentinel,  to  inform  you 
how  your  work  has  pleased  in  the  parlour:  by  his  report  you 
may  be  enabled  in  some  measure  to  rectify  any  mistake ; 
but  request  the  favour  of  an  early  interview  with  your  mas- 
ter or  mistress :  depend  as  little  as  possible  on  second-hand 
opinions.  Judge  of  your  employers  from  YOUR  OWN  ob- 
servations, and  THEIR  behaviour  to  you,  not  from  any  idle 
reports  from  the  other  servants,  who,  if  your  master  or  mis- 
tress inadvertently  drop  a  word  in  your  praise,  will  immedi- 
ately take  alarm,  and  fearing  your  being  more  in  favour  than 
themselves,  will  seldom  stick  at  trifles  to  prevent  it,  by  pre- 
tending to  take  a  prodigious  liking  to  you,  and  poisoning 
your  mind  in  such  a  manner  as  to  destroy  all  your  confi- 
dence, &c.  in  your  employers ;  and  if  they  do  not  immediately 
succeed  in  worrying  you  away,  will  take  care  you  have  no 
comfort  while  you  stay :  be  most  cautious  of  those  who  pro- 
fess most:  not  only  beware  of  believing  such  honey-tongued 

*  A  chapter  of  advice  to  cooks  will,  we  hope,  be  found  as  useful  as  it  is  origin.il 
all  we  have  on  this  subject  in  the  works  of  our  predecessors,  is  the  following ;  "  I 
.shall  strongly  recommend  to  aH  cooks  of  either  sex,  to  keep  their  stomachs  free  from 
strong  liquors  till  after  dinner,  and  their  noses  from  snuff." — Vide  CLKRMONT'S  Pro 
fcsscd  Cook,  p.  30, 8vo.  London,  1776. 


.    •    FRIENDLY  ADVICE   TO   COOKS.  47 

folks,  but  beware  as  much  of  betraying  your  suspicions  of 
them,  for  that  will  set  fire  to  the  train  at  once,  and  of  a 
doubtful  friend  make  a  determined  enemy. 

If  you  are  a  good  cook,  and  strictly  do  your  duty,  you  will 
soon  become  a  favourite  domestic ;  but  never  boast  of  the 
approbation  of  your  employers ;  for,  in  proportion  as  they 
think  you  rise  in  their  estimation,  you  will  excite  all  the 
tricks,  that  envy,  hatred,  malice,  and  all  uncharitableness 
can  suggest  to  your  fellow-servants ;  every  one  of  whom,  if 
less  sober,  honest,  or  industrious,  or  less  favoured  than  your- 
self, will  be  your  enemy. 

While  we  warn  you  against  making  others  your  enemies, 
take  care  that  you  do  not  yourself  become  your  own  and 
greatest  enemy.  "  Favourites  are  never  in  greater  danger 
of  falling,  than  when  in  the  greatest  favour,"  which  often 
begets  a  careless  inattention  to  the  commands  of  their  em- 
ployers, and  insolent  overbearance  to  their  equals,  a  gradual 
neglect  of  duty,  and  a  corresponding  forfeiture  of  that  regard 
which  can  only  be  preserved  by  the  means  which  created  it, 

"Those  arts  by  which  at  first  you  gain  it, 
You  still  must  practise  to  maintain  it." 

If  your  employers  are  so  pleased  with  your  conduct  as  to 
treat  you  as  a  friend  rather  than  a  servant,  do  not  let  their 
kindness  excite  your  self-conceit,  so  as  to  make  you  for  a 
moment  forget  you  are  one.  Condescension,  even  to  a  pro- 
verb, produces  contempt  in  inconsiderate  minds ;  and  to  such, 
the  very  means  which  benevolence  takes  to  cherish  atten- 
tion to  duty,  becomes  the  cause  of  the  evil  it  is  intended  to 
prevent. 

To  be  an  agreeable  companion  in  the  kitchen,  without 
compromising  your  duty  to  your  patrons  in  the  parlour,  re- 
quires no  small  portion  of  good  sense  and  good  nature :  in  a 
word,  you  must  "  do  as  you  would  be  done  by." 

ACT  FOR,  AND  SPEAK  OF,  EVERY  BODY  AS  IF  THEY  WERE 
PRESENT. 

We  hope  the  culinary  student  who  peruses  these  pages 
will  be  above  adopting  the  common,  mean,  and  ever  unsuc- 
cessful way  of  "  holding  with  the  hare,  and  running  with 
the  hounds,"  of  currying  favour  with  fellow-servants  by 
flattering  them,  and  ridiculing  the  mistress  when  in  the 
kitchen,  and  then,  prancing  into  the  patlour  and  purring 
about  her,  and  making  opportunities  to  display  all  the  little 
faults  you  can  find  (or  invent)  that  will  tell  well  agains.t 
those  in  the  kitchen ;  assuring  them,  on  your  return,  that  they 
were  vraised,  for  whatever  you  heard  them  blamed,  and  so 


18  FRIENDLY   ADVICE   TO   COOKS. 

excite  them  to  run  more  extremely  into  any  little  error  which 
you  think  will  be  most  displeasing  to  their  employers; 
watching  an  opportunity  to  pour  your  poisonous  lies  into 
their  unsuspecting  ears,  when  there  is  no  third  person  to 
bear  witness  of  your  iniquity ;  making  your  victims  believe, 
it  is  all  out  of  your  sincere  regard  for  them ;  assuring  them 
(as  Betty  says  in  the  man  of  the  world,)  "  That  indeed  you 
are  no  busybody  that  loves  fending  nor  proving,  but  hate  all 
tittling  and  tattling,  and  gossiping  and  backbiting,"  &c.  &c. 
.  Depend  upon  it,  if  you  hear  your  fellow-servants  speak 
'disrespectfully  of  a  master  or  a  mistress  with  whom  they 
have  lived  some  time,  it  is  a  sure  sign  that  they  have  some 
sinister  scheme  against  yourself;  if  they  have  not  been  well 
treated,  why  have  they  stayed  1 

"There  is  nothing  more  detestable  than  defamation.  I 
have  no  scruple  to  rank  a  slanderer  with  a  murderer  or  an 
assassin.  Those  who  assault  the  reputation  of  their  bene- 
factors, and  '  rob  you  of  that  which  nought  enriches  them,' 
would  destroy  your  life,  if  they  could  do  it  with  equal  im- 
punity." 

"  If  you  hope  to  gain  the  respect  and  esteem  of  others, 
and  the  approbation  of  your  own  heart,  be  respectful  and 
faithful  to  your  superiors,  obliging  and  good-natured  to  your 
fellow-servants,  and  charitable  to  all."  You  cannot  be  too 
careful  to  cultivate  a  meek  and  gentle  disposition ;  you  will 
find  the  benefit  of  it  every  day  of  your  life :  to  promote  peace 
and  harmony  around  you,  will  not  only  render  you  a  general 
favourite  with  your  fellow-servants,  but  will  make  you  happy 
in  yourself. 

"  Let  your  character  be  remarkable  for  industry  and  mode- 
ration ;  your  manners  and  deportment,  for    modesty  and 
humility ;  your  dress  distinguished  for  simplicity,  frugality, 
and  neatness.    A  dressy  servant  is  a  disgrace  to  a  house, 
and  renders  her  employers  as  ridiculous  as  she  does  herself. 
If  you  outshine  your  companions  in  finery,  you  will  inevi- 
tably excite  their  envy,  and  make  them  your  enemies.' 
"  Do  every  thing  at  the  proper  time." 
"  Keep  every  thing  in  its  proper  place." 
"  Use  every  thing  for  its  proper  purpose." 

The  importance  of  these  three  rules  must  be  evident,  to 
all  who  will  consider  how  much  easier  it  is  to  return  any 
thing  when  done  with  to  its  proper  place,  than  it  is  to  find  it 
when  mislaid ;  and  it  is  as  easy  to  put  things  in  one  place  as 
in  another. 

Keep  your  kitchen  and  furniture  as  clean  and  neat  as  pos- 
sible, which  will  then  be  an  ornament  to  it.  a  comfort  to 


FRIENDLY  ADVICE   TO   COOKS  4i> 

your  fellow-servants,  and  a  credit  to  yourself.  Moreover, 
good  housewifery  is  the  best  recommendation  to  a  good 
husband,  and  engages  men  to  honourable  attachment  to 
you;  she  who  is  a  tidy  servant  gives  promise  of  being  a 
careful  wife. 

Giving  away  Victuals. 

GIVING  away  any  thing  without  consent  or  privity  of  your 
master  or  mistress,  is  a  liberty  you  must  not  take ;  charity 
and  compassion  for  the  wants  of  our  fellow-creatures  are 
very  amiable  virtues,  but  they  are  not  to  be  indulged  at  the 
expense  of  your  own  honesty,  and  other  people's  property. 

When  you  find  that  there  is  any  thing  to  spare,  and  that 
it  is  in  danger  of  being  spoiled  by  being  kept  too  long,  it  is 
very  commendable  in  you  to  ask  leave  to  dispose  of  it  while 
it  is  fit  for  Christians  to  eat :  if  such  permission  is  refused, 
the  sin  does  not  lie  at  your  door.  But  you  must  on  no  ac- 
count bestow  the  least  morsel  in  contradiction  to  the  will  of 
those  to  whom  it  belongs. 

"  Never  think  any  part  of  your  business  too  trifling  to  be 
well  done." 

"  Eagerly  embrace  every  opportunity  of  learning  any  thing 
which  may  be  useful  to  yourself,  or  of  doing  any  thing  which 
may  benefit  others." 

Do  not  throw  yourself  out  of  a  good  place  for  a  slight 
affront.  "  Come  when  you  are  called,  and  do  what  you  are 
bid."  Place  yourself  in  your  mistress's  situation,  and  con- 
sider what  you  would  expect  from  her,  if  she  were  in  yours ; 
and  serve,  reverence,  and  obey  her  accordingly. 

Although  there  may  be  "more  places  than  parish-churches," 
it  is  not  very  easy  to  find  many  more  good  ones. 
"  A  rolling  stone  never  gathers  moss." 
"  Honesty  is  the  best  policy." 
"  A  still  tongue  makes  a  wise  head." 

Saucy  answers  are  highly  aggravating,  and  answer  no  good 
purpose. 

Let  your  master  or  mistress  scold  ever  so  much,  or  be 
ever  so  unreasonable;  as  "a  soft  answer  turneth  away 
wrath,"  "  so  will  SILENCE  be  the  best  a  servant  can  mafce."  . 

One  rude  answer,  extorted  perhaps  by  harsh  words,  or  un* 
merited  censure,  has  cost  many  a  servant  the  loss  of  a  good 
place,  or  the  total  forfeiture  of  a  regard  which  had  been 
growing  for  years. 

"  If  your  employers  are  hasty,  and  have  scolded  without 
reason,  bear  it  patiently ;  they  will  soon  see  their  error,  afid 

E 


50  FRIENDLY   ADVICE   TO  COOKS. 

not  be  happy  till  they  make  you  amends.  Muttering  on 
leaving  the  room,  or  slamming  the  door  after  you,  is  as  bad 
as  an  impertinent  reply;  it  is,  in  fact,  showing  that  you 
would  be  impertinent  if  you  dared." 

"  A  faithful  servant  will  not  only  never  speak  disrespect, 
fully  to  her  employers,  but  will  not  hear  disrespectful  words 
said  of  them." 

Apply  direct  to  your  employers,  and  beg  of  them  to  explain 
to  you,  as  fully  as  possible,  how  they  like  their  victuals 
dressed,  whether  much  or  little  done.* 

Of  what  complexion  they  wish  the  ROASTS,  of  a  gold  colour, 
or  well  browned,  and  if  they  like  them  frothed  ? 

Do  they  like  SOUPS  and  SAUCES  thick  or  thin,  or  white  or 
brown,  clean  or  full  in  the  mouth  ]  What  accompaniments 
they  are  partial  to  ? 

What  flavours  they  fancy  ?  especially  of  SPICE  and  HERBS  : 

"  Namque  coquus  domini  debet  habere  gulam."— MARTIAL. 

It  is  impossible  that  the  most  accomplished  cook  can  please 
their  palates,  till  she  has  learned  their  particular  taste  :  this, 
it  will  hardly  be  expected,  she  can  hit  exactly  the  first  time ; 
however,  the  hints  we  have  here  given,  and  in  the  7th  and 
8th  chapters  of  the  Rudiments  of  Cookery,  will  very  much 
facilitate  the  ascertainment  of  this  main  chance  of  getting 
into  their  favour. 

Be  extremely  cautious  of  seasoning  high :  leave  it  to  the 
eaters  to  add  the  piquante  condiments,  according  to  their 
own  palate  and  fancy :  for  this  purpose,  "  THE  MAGAZINE  OF 
TASTE,"  or  " Sauce-box"  (No.  462,)  will  be  found  an  invalua- 
ble acquisition;  its  contents  will  instantaneously  produce 
any  flavour  that  may  be  desired. 

"  De  gustibus  non  est  disputandum." 

Tastes  are  as  different  as  faces;  and  without  a  most 
attentive  observation  of  the  directions  given  by  her  employ- 
ers, the  most  experienced  cook  will  never  be  esteemed  a  pro- 
found palatician. 

It  will  not  go  far  to  pacify  the  rage  of  a  ravenous  gour- 
mand, who  likes  his  chops  broiled  brown,  (and  done  enough, 
so  that  they  can  appear  at  table  decently,  and  not  blush  when 
they  are  cut,)  to  be  told  that  some  of  the  customers  at  Dolly's 
chop-house  choose  to  have  them  only  half-done,  and  that  this 
is  the  best  way  of  eating  them. 

*  Meat  that  is  not  to  be  cut  till  it  is  cold,  must  be  thoroughly  done,  especially  in 
summer. 


x-KtuxutMAY    ADVICE    TO    COUAC.  OJ 

We  all  think  that  is  the  best  way  which  we  relish  best, 
and  which  agrees  best  with  our  stomach:  in  this,  reason 
and  fashion,  all-powerful  as  they  are  on  most  occasions, 
yield  to  the  imperative  caprice  of  the  palate. 

Oiacun  a  son  gout. 

"Tai  IRISHMAN  loves  Usquebaugh,  the  SCOT  loves  ale  eall'd  Blue-cap, 

^The  WKLCHMAN  he  loves  toasted  cheese,  and  makes  his  mouth  like  a  mouse-trap.1' 

Our  ITALIAN  neighbours  regale  themselves  with  macaroni 
and  parmesarij  and  eat  some  things  which  we  call  carrion. — 
Vide  RAY'S  Travels,  p.  362  and  406. 

While  the  ENGLISHMAN  boasts  of  his  roast  beef,  plum  pud- 
ding, and  porter, 

The  FRENCHMAN  feeds  on  his  favourite  frog  and  soupe- 
maigre, 

The  TARTAR  feasts  on  horse-flesh, 

The  CHINAMAN  on  dogs, 

The  GREENLANDER  preys  on  garbage  and  train  oil;  and 
each  "  blesses  his  stars,  and  thinks  it  luxury."  What  at  one 
time  or  place  is  considered  as  beautiful,  fragrant,  and  sa- 
voury, at  another  is  regarded  as  deformed  and  disgustful.* 

"  Ask  a  toad  what  is  beauty,  the  supremely  beautiful,  the 
TO  KAAON  !  He  will  tell  you  it  is  my  wife, — with  two  large 
eyes  projecting  out  of  her  little  head,  a  broad  and  flat  neck, 
yellow  belly,  and  dark  brown  back.  With  a  Guinea  negro, 
it  is  a  greasy  black  skin,  hollow  eyes,  and  a  flat  nose.  Put 
the  question  to  the  devil,  and  he  will  tell  you  that  BEAUTY  is 
a  pair  of  horns,  four  claws,  and  a  tail." — VOLTAIRE'S  Philos. 
Diet.  8vo.  p.  32. 

"Asafcetida  was  called  by  the  ancients  'FOOD  FOR  THE 
GODS.'  The  Persians,  Indians,  and  other  Eastern  people, 
now  eat  it  in  sauces,  and  call  it  by  that  name  :  the  Germans 
call  it  deviVs  dung" — Vide  POMET  on  Drugs. 

Garlic  and  clove,  or  allspice,  combined  in  certain  propor- 
tions, produce  a  flavour  very  similar  to  asafoetida. 

The  organ  of  taste  is  more  rarely  found  in  perfection,  and 
is  sooner  spoiled  by  the  operations  of  time,  excessive  use, 
&c.  than  either  of  our  other  senses. 

There  are  as  various  degrees  of  sensibility  of  palate  as 
there  are  of  gradations  of  perfection  in  the  eyes  and  ears  of 
painters  and  musicians.  After  all  the  pains  which  the  editor 
has  taken  to  explain  the  harmony  of  subtle  relishes,  unless 
nature  has  given  the  organ  of  taste  in  a  due  degree,  this  book 

*  See  chapter  xv. "  Chaqve  Pays,  chaque  Coutwne."—Cours  Gastronomique,  8vo. 


52  .       FRIENDLY  ADVICE   TO  COOKS. 

will,  alas !  no  more  make  an  OSBORNE,*  than  it  can  a  REY- 
NOLDS, or  an  ARNE,  or  a  SHIELD. 

Where  nature  has  been  most  bountiful  of  this  faculty,  its 
sensibility  is  so  easily  blunted  by  a  variety  of  unavoidable 
circumstances,  that  the  tongue  is  veiy  seldom  in  the  highest 
condition  for  appreciating  delicate  flavours,  or  accurately 
estimating  the  relative  force  of  the  various  materials  the 
cook  employs  in  the  composition  of  an  harmonious  relish. 
Cooks  express  this  refinement  of  combination  by  saying,  a 
well-finished  ragout  "tastes  of  every  thing,  and  tastes  of 
nothing :"  (this  is  "  kitchen  gibberish"  for  a  sauce  in  which 
the  component  parts  are  well  proportioned.) 

However  delicately  sensitive  nature  may  have  formed  the 
organs  of  taste,  it  is  only  during  those  few  happy  moments 
that  they  are  perfectly  awake,  and  in  perfect  good  humour, 
(alas !  how  very  seldom  they  are,)  that  the  most  accom- 
plished and  experienced  cook  has  a  chance  of  working  with 
any  degree  of  certainty  without  the  auxiliary  tests  of  the 
balance  and  the  measure:  by  the  help  of  these,  when  you 
are  once  right,  it  is  your  own  fault  if  you  are  ever  otherwise. 

The  sense  of  taste  depends  much  on  the  health  of  the  indi- 
vidual, and  is  hardly  ever  for  a  single  hour  in  the  same  state : 
such  is  the  extremely  intimate  sympathy  between  the  sto- 
mach and  the  tongue,  that  in  proportion  as  the  former  is 
empty,  the  latter  is  acute  and  sensitive.  This  is  the  cause 
that  "  good  appetite  is  the  best  sauce,"  and  that  the  dish  we 
find  savoury  at  luncheon,  is  insipid  at  dinner,  and  at  supper 
quite  tasteless. 

To  taste  any  thing  in  perfection,  the  tongue  must  be 
moistened,  or  the  substance  applied  to  it  contain  moisture  ; 
the  nervous  papillae  which  constitute  this  sense  are  roused 
to  still  more  lively  sensibility  by  salt,  sugar,  aroma- 
tics,  &c. 

If  the  palate  becomes  dull  by  repeated  tasting,  one  of  the 
best  ways  of  refreshing  it,  is  to  masticate  an  apple,  or  to 
wash  your  mouth  well  with  milk. 

The  incessant  exercise  of  tasting,  which  a  cook  is  obliged 
to  submit  to  during  the  education  of  her  tongue,  frequently 
impairs  the  very  faculty  she  is  trying  to  improve.  "  'Tis 
true  'tis  pity  and  pity  'tis,"  (says  a  grand  gourmand) 
"  'tis  true,  her  too  anxious  perseverance  to  penetrate  the 
mysteries  of  palatics  may  diminish  the  tact,  exhaust  the 
power,  and  destroy  the  index,  without  which  all  her  labour 
is  in  vain." 

*  C«ok  to  Sir  JOSEPH  BANKS,  Bart,,  late  president  of  the  Royal  Society. 


FKIENDLY   ADVICE   TO    COOKS.  53 

Therefore,  a  sagacious  cook,  instead  of  idly  and  wantonly 
wasting  the  excitability  of  her  palate,  on  the  sensibility  of 
which  her  reputation  and  fortune  depends,  when  she  has 
ascertained  the  relative  strength  of  the  flavour  of  the  various 
ingredients  she  employs,  will  call  in  the  balance  and  the 
measure  to  do  the  ordinary  business,  and  endeavour  to  pre- 
serve her  organ  of  taste  with  the  utmost  care,  that  it  may 
be  a  faithful  oracle  to  refer  to  on  grand  occasions,  and  new 
compositions.*  Of  these  an  ingenious  cook  may  form  as 
endless  a  variety,  as  a  musician  with  his  seven  notes,  or  a 
painter  with  his  colours :  read  chapters  7  and  8  of  the  Rudi- 
ments of  Cookery. 

Receive  as  the  highest  testimonies  of  your  employers' 
regard  whatever  observations  they  may  make  on  your  work : 
such  admonitions  are  the  most  unequivocal  proofs  of  their 
desire  to  make  you  thoroughly  understand  their  taste,  and 
their  wish  to  retain  you  in  their  service,  or  they  would  not 
take  the  trouble  to  teach  you. 

Enter  into  all  their  plans  of  economy,!  and  endeavour  to 
make  the  most  of  every  thing,  as  well  for  your  own  honour 
as  your  master's  profit,  and  you  will  find  that  whatever  care 
you  take  for  his  profit  will  be  for  your  own :  take  care  that 
the  meat  which  is  to  make  its  appearance  again  in  the  parlour 
is  handsomely  cut  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  put  on  a  clean 
dish :  take  care  of  the  gravy  (see  No.  326)  which  is  left,  it 
will  save  many  pounds  of  meat  in  making  sauce  for  hashes, 
poultry,  and  many  little  dishes. 

MANY  THINGS  MAY  BE  REDRESSED  in  a  different  form 
from  that  in  which  they  were  first  served,  and  improve 
the  appearance  of  the  table  without  increasing  the  expense 
of  it. 

COLD  FISH,  soles,  cod,  whitings,  smelts,  &c.  may  be 
cut  into  bits,  and  put  into  escallop  shells,  with  cold  oys- 
ter, lobster,  or  shrimp  sauce,  and  bread  crumbled,  and  put 
into  a  Dutch  oven,  and  browned  like  scalloped  oysters. 
(No.  182.) 

*  "  The  diversities  of  taste  are  so  many  and  so  considerable,  that  it  seemetb 
strange  to  see  the  matter  treated  of  both  by  philosophers  and  physicians  with  so 
much  scantiness  and  defect:  i or  the  subject  is  not  barren,  but  yieldeth  much  and 
pleasant  variety,  and  doth  also  appear  to  be  of  great  importance."— From  Dr. 
CREW'S  Jlntit.  of  Plants,  fol.  1682,  p.  286.  The  Dr.  enumerates  sixteen  simple 
tastes :  however,  it  is  difficult  to  define  more  than  six. — 1st.  Bitter  as  wormwood. 
2d.  Sweet  as  sugar.  3d.  Sour  as  vinegar.  4th.  Salt  as  brine.  5th.  Cold  as  ice.  6th. 
Hot  as  brandy.  "  Compound  tastes,  innumerable,  may  be  formed  by  the  combination 
of  these  simple  tastes— as  words  are  of  letters." — See  also  Phil.  Trans,  vol.  xv. 
p.  1025.. 

t  "  I  am  persuaded  that  no  servant  ever  saved  her  master  sixpence,  but  she  found 
it  in  the  end  in  her  pocket."— TRUSLER'S  Domestic  Management,  p.  ]1. 

E2 


54  FRIENDLY  ADVICE   TO   COOKS. 

The  best  way  TO  WARM  COLD  MEAT  is  to  sprinkle  the  joint 
over  with  a  little  salt,  and  put  it  in  a  DUTCH  OVEN,  at  some 
distance  before  a  gentle  fire,  that  it  may  warm  gradually ; 
watch  it  carefully,  and  keep  turning  it  till  it  is  quite  hot  and 
brown :  it  will  take  from  twenty  minutes  to  three  quarters 
of  an  hoiir,  according  to  its  thickness ;  serve  it  up  with 
gravy:  this  is  much  better  than  hashing  it,  and  by  doing 
it  nicely  a  cook  will  get  great  credit.  POULTRY  (No. 
530*),  FRIED  FISH  (see  No.  145),  &c.  may  be  redressed  in 
this  way. 

Take  care  of  the  liquor  you  have  boiled  poultry  or  meat 
in ;  in  five  minutes  you  may  make  it  into  EXCELLENT  SOUP. 
See  obs.  to  Nos.  555  and  229,  No.  5,  and  the  7th  chapter  of  the 
Rudiments  of  Cookery. 

No  good  housewife  has  any  pretensions  to  rational  economy 
who  boils  animal  food  without  converting  the  broth  into  some 
sort  of  soup. 

However  highly  the  uninitiated  in  the  mystery  of  soup- 
making  may  elevate  the  external  appendage  of  his  olfactory 
organ  at  the  mention  of  "  POT  LIQUOR,"  if  he  tastes  No.  5, 
or  218,  555,  &c.  he  will  be  as  delighted  with  it  as  a  French- 
man is  with  "potage  a  la  Camarani"  of  which  it  is  said  "  a 
single  spoonful  will  lap  the  palate  in  Elysium ;  and  while  one 
drop  of  it  remains  on  the  tongue,  each  other  sense  is  eclipsed 
by  the  voluptuous  thrilling  of  the  lingual  nerves ! !" 

BROTH  OF  FRAGMENTS. — When  you  dress  a  large  dinner, 
you  may  make  good  broth,  or  portable  soup  (No.  252), 
at  very  small  cost,  by  taking  care  of  all  the  trimmings 
and  parings  of  the  meat,  game,  and  poultry,  you  are  going  to 
use :  wash  them  well,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  as 
much  cold  water  as  will  cover  them ;  set  your  stewpan  on  a 
hot  fire ;  when  it  boils,  take  off  all  the  scum,  and  set  it  on 
again  to  simmer  gently ;  put  in  two  carrots,  two  turnips,  a 
large  onion,  three  blades  of  pounded  mace,  and  a  head  of 
celery ;  some  mushroom  parings  will  be  a  great  addition. 
Let  it  continue  to  simmer  gently  four  or  five  hours ;  strain  it 
through  a  sieve  into  a  clean  basin.  This  will  save  a  great 
deal  of  expense  in  buying  gravy-meat. 

Have  the  DUST,  &c.  removed  regularly  once  in  a  fortnight, 
and  have  your  KITCHEN  CHIMNEY  swept  once  a  month;  many 
good  dinners  have  been  spoiled,  and  many  houses  burned 
down,  by  the  soot  falling :  the  best  security  against  this,  is 
for  the  cook  to  have  a  long  birch-broom,  and  every  morning 
brush  down  all  the  soot  within  reach  of  it.  Give  notice  to 
your  employers  when  the  contents  of  your  COAL-CELLAR  are 
diminished  to  a  chaldron. 


FRIENDLY  ADVICE    TO   COOKS.  65 

It  will  be  to  little  purpose  to  procure  good  provisions, 
unless  you  have  proper  utensils*  to  prepare  them  in:  the 
most  expert  artist  cannot  perform  his  work  in  a  perfect 
manner  without  proper  instruments ;  you  cannot  have  neat 
work  without  nice  tools,  nor  can  you  dress  victuals  well 
without  an  apparatus  appropriate  to  the  work  required.  See 
1st  page  of  chapter  7  of  the  Rudiments  of  Cookery. 

In  those  houses  where  the  cook  enjoys  the  confidence  of 
her  employer  so  much  as  to  be  intrusted  with  the  care  of  the 
store-room,  which  is  not  very  common,  she  will  keep  an 
exact  account  of  every  thing  as  it  comes  in,  and  insist  upon 
the  weight  and  price  being  fixed  to  every  article  she  pur- 
chases, and  occasionally  will  (and  it  may  not  be  amiss  to 
jocosely  drop  a  hint  to  those  who  supply  them  that  she  does) 
reweigh  them,  for  her  own  satisfaction,  as  well  as  that 
of  her  employer,  and  will  not  trust  the  key  of  this  room 
to  any  one ;  she  will  also  keep  an  account  of  every  thing 
she  takes  from  it,  and  manage  with  as  much  consideration 
and  frugality  as  if  it  was  her  own  property  she  was  using, 
endeavouring  to  disprove  the  adage,  that  "PLENTY  makes 
waste"  and  remembering  that  "wilful  waste  makes  woful 
want." 

The  honesty  of  a  cook  must  be  above  all  suspicion :  she 
must  obtain,  and  (in  spite  of  the  numberless  temptations, 
&c.  that  daily  offer  to  bend  her  from  it)  preserve  a  charac- 
ter of  spotless  integrity  and  useful  industry,!  remembering 
that  it  is  the  fair  price  of  INDEPENDENCE,  which  all  wish  for, 
but  none  without  it  can  hope  for ;  only  a  fool  or  a  madman 
will  be  so  silly  or  so  crazy  as  to  expect  to  reap  where  he  has 
been  too  idle  to  sow. 

Very  few  modern-built  town-houses  have  a  proper  place 

*  "  A  surgeon  may  as  well  attempt  to  make  an  incision  with  a  pair  of  shears,  or 
open  a  vein  with  an  oyster-knife,  as  a  cook  pretend  to  dress  a  dinner  without  proper 
tools.— VERRALL'S  Cookery,  8vo.  1759,  p.  6. 

t  Many  COOKS  miss  excellent  opportunities  of  making  themselves  independent, 
by  their  idleness,  in  refusing  any  place,  however  profitable,  &c.  if  there  is  not  a 
kitchen  maid  kept  to  wait  upon  them. 

Tflere  are  many  invalids  who  require  a  good  cook,  and  as  (after  reading  this  book 
they  will  understand  tiow  much)  their  comfort  and  effective  existence  depends  on 
their  food  being  properly  prepared,  will  willingly  pay  handsome  wages,  (who  would 
not  rather  pay  the  cook  than  the  doctor1?)  but  have  so  little  work  in  the  kitchen  that 
one  person  may  do  it  all  with  the  utmost  ease,  without  injury  to  her  health ;  which 
is  not  the  case  in  a  large  family,  where  the  poor  cook  is  roasting  and  stewing  all 
day,  and  is  often  deprived  of  her  rest  at  night.  No  artists  have  greater  need  to 
"  make  hay  while  the  sun  shines"  and  timely  provide  for  the  infirmities  of  age. 
Who  will  hire  a  superannuated  servant  1  If  she  has  saved  nothing  to  support  her- 
self, she  must  crawl  to  the  workhouse. 

It  is  melancholy  to  find,  fhat,  according  to  the  authority  of  a  certain  great  French 
author,  "  cooks,  half  stewed  and  half  roasted,  when  unable  to  work  any  longer, 
aenerally  retire  to  some  unknown  corner,  and  die  in  forlornnesg  and  want."— 
BLACKWOOD'S  Edin.  Mag.  vol.  vii.  p.  668. 


£6  FHIENDLY  ADVICE    TO   COOKS. 

to  preserve  provisions  in.  The  best  substitute  is  a  HANGING 
SAFE,  which  you  may  contrive  to  suspend  in  an  airy  situa« 
tion;  and  when  you  order  meat,  poultry,  or  fish,  tell  the 
tradesman  when  you  intend  to  dress  it :  he  will  then  have  it 
in  his  power  to  serve  you  with  provision  that  will  do  him 
credit,  which  the  finest  meat,  &c.  in  the  world  will  never 
do,  unless  it  has  been  kept  a  proper  time  to  be  ripe  and 
tender. 

If  you  have  a  well-ventilated  larder  in  a  shady,  dry  situa- 
tion, you  may  make  still  surer,  by  ordering  in  your  meat  and 
poultry  such  a  time  before  you  want  it  as  will  render  it 
tender,  which  the  finest  meat  cannot  be,  unless  hung  a  proper 
time  (see  3d  chapter  of  the  Rudiments  of  Cookery),  accord- 
ing to  the  season,  and  nature  of  the  meat,  &c. ;  but  always, 
as  "  les  bons  homines  de  bouche  de  France"  say,  till  it  is  "  asses 
mortifite" 

Permitting  this  process  to  proceed  to  a  certain  degree 
renders  meat  much  more  easy  of  solution  in  the  stomach, 
and  for  those  whose  digestive  faculties  are  delicate,  it  is  of 
the  utmost  importance  that  it  be  attended  to  with  the  greatest 
nicety,  for  the  most  consummate  skill  in  the  culinary  pre- 
paration of  it  will  not  compensate  for  the  want  of  attention 
to  this.  (Read  obs.  to  No.  68.)  Meat  that  is  thoroughly 
roasted,  or  boiled,  eats  much  shorter  and  tenderer,  and  is  in 
proportion  more  digestible,  than  that  which  is  under-done. 

You  will  be  enabled  to  manage  much  better  if  your  em- 
ployers will  make  out  a  BILL  OF  FARE  FOR  THE  WEEK  on  the 
Saturday  before :  for  example,  for  a  family  of  half  a  dozen- 
Sunday Roast  beef  (No.  19),  and  my  pudding  (No.  554). 

Monday. . .  Fowl  (Nos.  16.  58),  what  was  left  of  my  pudding  fried,  and  warmed 
in  the  Dutch  oven. 

Tuesday. ..  Calf  s  head. (No.  10),  apple-pie. 

Wednesday  Leg  of  mutton  (No.  1),  or  (No.  33). 

Thursday  •  Do.  broiled  or  hashed  (No.  487),  or  (No.  484,)  pancakes. 

Friday....  Fish  (No.  145),  pudding  (No. 554). 

Saturday..  Fish,  or  eggs  and  bacon  (No.  545). 

Tt  is  an  excellent  plan  to  have  certain  things  on  certain 
days.  When  your  butcher  or  poulterer  knows  what  you 
will  want,  he  has  a  better  chance  of  doing  his  best  for  you ; 
and  never  think  of  ordering  BEEF  FOR  ROASTING  except  for 
Sunday. 

When  the  weather  or  season*  is  very  unfavourable  for 

*  w  The  season  of  the  year  has  considerable  influence  on  the  quality  of  butcher- 
meat  ;  depending  upon  the  more  or  less  plentiful  supply  of  food,  upon  the  periodical 
change  which  takes  place  in  the  body  of  the  aninfal,  and  upon  temperature.  Tire 
flesh  of  most  full-grown  quadrupeds  is  in  highest  season  during  the  first  months  oi 
winter,  after  having  enjoyed  the  advantage  of  the  abundance  of  fresh  summer  fowl- 


FRIENDLY   ADVICE    TO   COOKS.  67 

keeping  meat,  &c.  give  him  the  choice  of  sending  that  which 
is  in  the  best  order  for  dressing ;  i.  e.  either  ribs  or  sirloin  of 
beef,  or  leg,  loin,  or  neck  of  mutton,  &c. 

Meat  in  which  you  can  detect  the  slightest  trace  of  pu- 
trescency,  has  reached  its  highest  degree  of  tenderness,  and 
should  be  dressed  without  delay;  but  before  this  period, 
which  in  some  kinds  of  meat  is  offensive,  the  due  degree  of 
inteneration  may  be  ascertained,  by  its  yielding  readily  to 
the  pressure  of  the  finger,  and  by  its  opposing  little  resist- 
ance to  an  attempt  to  bind  the  joint. 

Although  we  strongly  recommend  that  animal  food  should 
be  hung  up  in  the  open  air,  till  its  fibres  have  lost  some  de- 
gree of  their  toughness ;  yet,  let  us  be  clearly  understood 
also  to  warn  you,  that  if  kept  till  it  loses  its  natural  sweet- 
ness, it  is  as  detrimental  to  health,  as  it  is  disagreeable  to 
the  smell  and  taste. 

IN  VERY  COLD  WEATHER,  bring  your  meat,  poultry,  &c. 
into  the  kitchen,  early  in  the  morning,  if  you  roast,  boil,  or 
stew  it  ever  so  gently  and  ever  so  long ;  if  it  be  frozen,  it 
will  continue  tough  and  unchewable. 

Without  very  watchful  attention  to  this,  the  most  skilful 
cook  in  the  world  will  get  no  credit,  be  she  ever  so  careful 
in  the  management  of  her  spit  or  her  stewpan. 

The  time  meat  should  hang  to  be  tender,  depends  on  the 
heat  and  humidity  of  the  air.  If  it  is  not  kept  long  enough, 
it  is  hard  and  tough ;  if  too  long,  it  loses  its  flavour.  It 
should  be  hung  where  it  will  have  -  a  thorough  air,  and  be 
dried  with  a  cloth,  night  and  morning,  to  keep  it  from  damp 
and  mustiness. 

Before  you  dress  it,  wash  it  well ;  if  it  is  roasting  beef,  pare 
off  the  outside. 

If  you  fear  meat,*  &c.  will  not  keep  till  the  time  it  is 
wanted,  par-roast  or  par-boil  it ;  it  will  then  keep  a  couple  of 
days  longer,  when  it  may  be  dressed  in  the  usual  way,  only 
it  will  be  done  in  rather  less  time. 

Its  flavour  then  begins  to  be  injured  by  the  turnips,  &c.  given  as  winter  food ;  and 
in  spring,  it  gets  lean  from  deficiency  of  food.  Although  beef  and  mutton  are  never 
absolutely  out  of  season,  or  not  fit  for  the  table,  they  are  best  in  November,  Decem- 
ber, and  January.  Pork  is  absolutely  bad,  except  during  the  winter." — Supplement 
to  the  Edin.  Ency.  Brit.  p.  328. 

*  "  LARDERS,  PANTRIES,  and  SAFES  must  be  sheltered  from  the  sun,  and  other- 
wise removed  from  the  heat ;  be  dry,  and,  if  possible,  have  a  current  of  dry,  cool  air 
continually  passing  through  them. 

"  The  freezing  temperature,  i.  e.  32  degrees  of  Fahrenheit,  is  a  perfect  preservative 
from  putrefaction :  warm,  moist,  muggy  weather  is  the  worst  for  keeping  meat. 
The  south  wind  is  especially  unfavourable,  and  lightning  is  quickly  destructive ; 
but  the  greatest  enemy  you  have  to  encounter  is  the  flesh-fly,  which  becomes  trou 
falesome  about  the  month  of  May,  and  continues  so  till  towards  Michaelmas."— For 
flmher  Obs.  on  this  subject  see  "  The  Experienced  Butcher,"  page  160. 


58  FRIENDLY  ADVICE  TO  COOKS. 

"  In  Germany,  the  method  of  keeping  flesh  in  summer  i* 
to  steep  it  in  Rhenish  wine  with  a  little  sea-salt ;  by  which 
means  it  may  be  preserved  a  whole  season." — BOERHAAVE'S 
Academical  Lectures,  translated  by  J.  Nathan,  8vo.  1763, 
p.  241. 

The  cook  and  the  butcher  as  often  lose  their  credit  by 
meat  being  dressed  too  fresh,  as  the  fishmonger  does  by  fish 
that  has  been  kept  too  long. 

Dr.  Franklin  in  his  philosophical  experiments  tells  us,  that 
if  game  or  poultry  be  killed  by  ELECTRICITY  it  will  become 
tender  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  and  if  it  be  dressed  im- 
mediately, will  be  delicately  tender. 

During  the  sultry  SUMMER  MONTHS,  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  procure  meat  that  is  not  either  tough,  or  tainted.  The 
former  is  as  improper  as  the  latter  for  the  unbraced  stomachs 
of  relaxed  valetudinarians,  for  whom,  at  this  season,  poultry, 
stews,  &c.,  and  vegetable  soups,  are  the  most  suitable  food, 
when  the  digestive  organs  are  debilitated  by  the  extreme 
heat,  and  profuse  perspiration  requires  an  increase  of  liquid 
to  restore  equilibrium  in  the  constitution. 

I  have  taken  much  more  pains  than  any  of  my  prede- 
cessors, to  teach  the  young  cook  how  to  perform,  in  the  best 
manner,  the  common  business  of  her  profession.  Being  well 
grounded  in  the  RUDIMENTS  of  COOKERY,  she  will  be  able  to 
execute  the  orders  that  are  given  her,  with  ease  to  herself, 
and  satisfaction  to  her  employers,  and  send  up  a  delicious 
dinner,  with  half  the  usual  expense  and  trouble. 

I  have  endeavoured  to  lessen  the  labour  of  those  who  wish 
to  be  thoroughly  acquainted  with  their  profession ;  and  an 
attentive  perusal  of  the  following  pages  will  save  them  much 
of  the  irksome  drudgery  attending  an  apprenticeship  at  the 
stove :  an  ordeal  so  severe,  that  few  pass  it  without  irrepa- 
rable injury  to  their  health  ;*  and  many  lose  their  lives  before 
they  learn  their  business. 

To  encourage  the  best  performance  of  the  machinery  of 
mastication,  the  cook  must  take  care  that  her  dinner  is  not 
only  well  cooked,  but  that  each  dish  be  sent  to  table  with 
its  proper  accompaniments,  in  the  neatest  and  most  elegant 
manner. 

Remember,  to  excite  the  good  opinion  of  the  eye  is  the 
iirst  step  towards  awakening  the  appetite. 

*  "  Buy  it  with  health,  strength,  and  resolution, 
And  pay  for  it,  a  robust  constitution." 

Preface  to  the  Cook's  Cookery,  1758. 

See  the  preface  to  "  The  Cook's  Cookery,"  p.  9.  This  work,  which  ts  very  scarce, 
was,  we  believe,  written  to  develope  the  mistakes  in  what  he  calls  "  The  Thousand 
Errors"  i.  e.  "  The  Lady's  Cookery?1  i.  e.  Mrs.  Glasse's,  i.  e.  Sir  John  Hill's. 


FRIENDLT   ADVICE    TO   COOKS.  59 

Decoration  is  much  more  rationally  employed  in  render- 
ing a  wholesome,  nutritious  dish  inviting,  than  in  the  elabo- 
rate embellishments  which  are  crowded  about  trifles  and 
custards. 

Endeavour  to  avoid  o^er-dressing  roasts  and  boils,  &c. 
and  orer-seasoning  soups  and  sauces  with  salt,  pepper,  &c. ; 
it  is  a  fault  which  cannot  be  mended. 

If  your  roasts,  &c.  are  a  little  under-done,  with  the  as- 
sistance of  the  stewpan,  the  gridiron,  or  the  Dutch  oven, 
you  may  soon  rectify  the  mistake  made  with  the  spit  or  the  pot. 

If  <tt>er-done,  the  best  juices  of  the  meat  are  evaporated ; 
it  will  serve  merely  to  distend  the  stomach,  and  if  the 
sensation  of  hunger  be  removed,  it  is  at  the  price  of  an 
indigestion. 

The  chief  business  of  cookery  is  to  render  food  easy  of 
digestion,  and  to  facilitate  nutrition.  This  is  most  com- 
pletely accomplished  by  plain  cookery  in  perfection;  i.  e. 
neither  over  nor  under-done. 

With  all  your  care,  you  will  not  get  much  credit  by 
cooking  to  perfection,  if  more  than  one  dish  goes  to  table  at 
a  time. 

To  be  eaten  in  perfection,  the  interval  between  meat  being 
taken  out  of  the  stewpan  and  its  being  put  into  the  mouth, 
must  be  as  short  as  possible ;  but  ceremony,  that  most  for- 
midable enemy  to  good  cheer,  too  often  decrees  it  other- 
wise, and  the  guests  seldom  get  a  bit  of  an  "  entremets'1''  till 
it  is  half  cold.  (See  No.  485.) 

So  much  time  is  often  lost  in  placing  every  thing  in  apple- 
pie  order,  that  long  before  dinner  is  announced,  all  becomes 
lukewarm ;  and  to  complete  the  mortification  of  the  grand 
gourmand,  his  meat  is  put  on  a  sheet  of  ice  in  the  shape  of 
a  plate,  which  instantly  converts  the  gravy  into  jelly,  and 
the  fat  into  a  something  which  puzzles  his  teeth  and  the  roof 
of  his  mouth  as  much  as  if  he  had  birdlime  to  masticate. 
A  complete  meat-screen  will  answer  the  purpose  of  a  hot 
closet,  plate-warmer,  &c. — See  Index. 

It  will  save  you  infinite  trouble  and  anxiety,  if  you  can 
prevail  on  your  employers  to  use  the  "  SAUCE-BOX,"  No.  462, 
hereinafter  described  in  the  chapter  of  Sauces.  With  the 
help  of  this  "  MAGAZINE  OF  TASTE,"  every  one  in  company 
may  flavour  their  soup  and  sauce,  and  adjust  the  vibrations 
of  their  palate,  exactly  to  their  own  fancy ;  but  if  the  cook 
give  a  decidedly  predominant  and  piquante  gout  to  a  dish,  to 
tickle  the  tongues  of  two  or  three  visiters,  whose  taste  she 
knows,  she  may  thereby  make  the  dinner  disgusting  to  all. 
the  other  guests. 


FBIEHDLY   ADVICE    TO   COOKS. 

Never  undertake  more  work  than  you  are  quite  certain 
you  can  do  well.  If  you  are  ordered  to  prepare  a  larger  din- 
ner than  you  think  you  can  send  up  with  ease  and  neatness, 
or  to  dress  any  dish  that  you  are  not  acquainted  with,  rather 
than  run  any  risk  in  spoiling  any  thing  (by  one  fault  you 
may  perhaps  lose  all  your  credit),  request  your  employers 
to  let  you  have  some  help.  They  may  acquit  you  for  plead- 
ing guilty  of  inability ;  but  if  you  make  an  attempt,  and  fail, 
will  vote  it  a  capita]  offence. 

If  your  mistress  professes  to  understand  cookery,  your 
best  way  will  be  to  follow  her  directions.  If  you  wish  to 
please  her,  let  her  have  the  praise  of  all  that  is  right,  and 
cheerfully  bear  the  blame  of  any  thing  that  is  wrong ;  only 
advise  that  all  NEW  DISHES  may  be  first  tried  when  the  family 
dine  alone.  When  there  is  company,  never  attempt  to  dress 
any  thing  which  you  have  not  ascertained  that  you  can  do 
perfectly  well. 

Do  not  trust  any  part  of  your  work  to  others  without  care* 
fully  overlooking  them :  whatever  faults  they  commit,  you 
will  be  censured  for.  If  you  have  forgotten  any  article  which 
is  indispensable  for  the  day's  dinner,  request  your  employers 
to  send  one  of  the  other  servants  for  it.  The  cook  must 
never  quit  her  post  till  her  work  is  entirely  finished. 

It  requires  the  utmost  skill  and  contrivance  to  have  all 
things  done  as  they  should  be,  and  all  done  together,  at  that 
critical  moment  when  the  dinner-bell  sounds  "  to  the  ban- 
quet." 


"A  feast  must  be  without  a  fault ; 
And  if 't  is  not  all  right,  't  is  naught." 


But 


"  Good  nature  will  some  failings  overlook, 
Forgive  mischance,  not  errors  of  the  cook , 
As,  if  no  salt  is  thrown  about  the  dish, 
Or  nice  crisp'd  parsley  scatter'd  on  the  fish, 
Shall  we  in  passion  from  our  dinner  fly, 
And  hopes  of  pardon  to  the  cook  deny, 
For  things  which  Mrs.  GLA.SSK  herself  might  overseej 
And  all  mankind  commit  as  well  as  she  1" 

Vide  KING'S  Art,  of  Cookery. 

Such  is  the  endless  variety  of  culinary  preparations,  that  ir 
,vould  be  as  vain  and  fruitless  a  search  as  that  for  the  philo- 
sopher's stone,  to  expect  to  find  a  cook  who  is  quite  perfect 
in  all  the  operations  of  the  spit,  the  stewpan,  and  the  rolling- 
pin:  you  will  as  soon  find  a  watchmaker  who  can  make, 
put  together,  and  regulate  every  part  of  a  watch. 

"  The  universe  cannot  produce  a  cook  who  knows  how  to 


FBIENDLY  ADVICE  TO  COOKS.  6 1 

Jo  every  branch  of  cookery  well,  be  his  genius  as  great  as 
possible."~-Vide  the  Cook's  Cookery,  8vo.  page  40. 

THE  BEST  RULE  FOR  MARKETING  IS  tO  pay  READY  MONEY 

for  every  thing,  and  to  deal  with  the  most  respectable  trades- 
men in  your  neighbourhood. 

If  you  leave  it  to  their  integrity  to  supply  you  with  a  good 
article,  at  the  fair  market  price,  you  will  be  supplied  with 
better  provisions,  and  at  as  reasonable  a  rate  as  those  bar- 
gain-hunters, who  trot  "around,  around,  around  about"  a 
market,  till  they  are  trapped  to  buy  some  unchervable  old 
poultry,  tough  tup-mutton,  stringy  cow  beef,  or  stale  fish,  at 
a  very  little  less  than  the  price  of  prime  and  proper  food. 
With  savings  like  these  they  toddle  home  in  triumph,  cackling 
all  the  way,  like  a  goose  that  has  got  ankle-deep  into  good 
luck. 

All  the  skill  of  the  most  accomplished  cook  will  avail 
nothing,  unless  she  is  furnished  with  PRIME  PROVISIONS. 
The  best  way  to  procure  these  is  to  deal  with  shops  of  esta- 
blished character :  you  may  appear  to  pay,  perhaps,  ten  per 
cent,  more  than  you  would,  were  you  to  deal  with  those  who 
pretend  to  sell  cheap,  but  you  would  be  much  more  than  in 
that  proportion  better  served. 

Every  trade  has  its  tricks  and  deceptions :  those  who  fol- 
low them  can  deceive  you  if  they  please ;  and  they  are  too 
apt  to  do  so,  if  you  provoke  the  exercise  of  their  over-reach- 
ing talent.* 

Challenge  them  to  a  game  at  "  Catch  who  can,"  by  entirely 
relying  on  your  own  judgment ;  and  you  will  soon  find  that 
nothing  but  very  long  experience  can  make  you  equal  to 
the  combat  of  marketing  to  the  utmost  advantage. 

Before  you  go  to  market,  look  over  your  larder,  and  con- 
sider well  what  things  are  wanting,  especially  on  a  Satur- 
day. No  well-regulated  family  can  suffer  a  disorderly  ca- 
terer to  be  jumping  in  and  out  to  the  chandler's  shop  on  a 
Sunday  morning. 

Give  your  directions  to  your  assistants,  and  begin  your 
business  early  in  the  morning,  or  it  will  be  impossible  to 
have  the  dinner  ready  at  the  time  it  is  ordered. 

*  "He  who  will  not  be  cheated  a  little,  must  be  content  to  be  abused  a  great 
deal :  the  first  lesson  in  the  art  of  comfortable  economy,  Is  to  learn  to  submit  cheer- 
fully to  be  imposed  upon  in  due  proportion  to  your  situation  and  circumstances:  if 
you  do  not,  you  will  continually  be  in  hot  water. 

4t  If  you  think  a  tradesman  has  imposed  upon  you,  never  use  a  second  word,  it 
the  first  will  not  do,  nor  drop  the  least  hint  of  an  imposition.  The  only  method  to 
induce  him  to  make  an  abatement  is  the  hope  of  future  favours.  Pay  the  demand, 
and  deal  with  the  gentleman  no  more :  but  do  not  let  him  see  that  you  are  dis- 
pleased, or,  as  soon  as  you  are  out  of  sight,  your  reputation  will  suffer  as  much  as 
your  pocket  has."— TKUSLSR'S  Way  to  be  fitcA,  8vo.  1776,  p.  85. 

F 


62  FBIENDLY   ADVICE   TO   COOKS. 

To  be  half  an  hour  after  the  time  is  such  a  frequent  fault, 
that  there  is  the  more  merit  in  being  ready  at  the  appointed 
hour.  This  is  a  difficult  task,  and  in  the  best-regulated 
family  you  can  only  be  sure  of  your  time  by  proper  arrange- 
ments. 

With  all  our  love  of  punctuality,  we  must  not  forget  that 
the  first  consideration  must  still  be,  tlfat  the  dinner  "  be  well 
done  when 't  is  done." 

If  any  accident  occurs  to  any  part  of  the  dinner,  or  if  you 
are  likely  to  be  prevented  sending  the  soup,  &c.  to  the  table 
at  the  moment  it  is  expected,  send  up  a  message  to  your 
employers,  stating  the  circumstance,  and  bespeak  their  pa- 
tience for  as  many  minutes  as  you  think  it  will  take  to  be 
ready.  This  is  better  than  either  keeping  the  company  wait- 
ing without  an  apology,  or  dishing  your  dinner  before  it  is 
done  enough,  or  sending  any  thing  to  table  which  is  disgust- 
ing to  the  stomachs  of  the  guests  at  the  first  appearance  of  it. 

Those  who  desire  regularity  in  the  service  of  their  table, 
should  have  a  DIAL,  of  about  twelve  inches  diameter,  placed 
over  the  kitchen  fireplace,  carefully  regulated  to  keep  time 
exactly  with  the  clock  in  the  hall  or  dining-parlour ;  with  a 
frame  on  one  side,  containing  A  TASTE  TABLE  of  the  pecu- 
liarities of  the  master's  palate,  and  the  particular  rules  and 
orders  of  his  kitchen ;  and,  on  the  other  side,  of  the  REWARDS 
given  to  those  who  attend  to  them,  and  for  long  and  faithful 
service. 

In  small  families,  where  a  dinner  is  seldom  given,  a  great 
deal  of  preparation  is  required,  and  the  preceding  day  must 
be  devoted  to  the  business  of  the  kitchen. 

On  these  occasions  a  char-woman  is  often  employed  to  do 
the  dirty  work.  Ignorant  persons  often  hinder  you  more 
than  they  help  you.  We  advise  a  cook  to  be  hired  to  assist 
to  dress  the  dinner :  this  would  be  very  little  more  expense, 
and  the  work  got  through  with  much  more  comfort  in  the 
kitchen  and  credit  to  the  parlour. 

When  you  have  a  very  large  entertainment  to  prepare,  get 
your  soups  and  sauces,  forcemeats,  &c.  ready  the  day  before, 
and  read  the  7th  chapter  of  our  Rudiments  of  Cookery.  Many 
made  dishes  may  also  be  prepared  the  day  before  they  are 
to  go  to  table ;  but  do  not  dress  them  quite  enough  the  first 
day,  that  they  may  not  be  over-done  by  warming  up  again. 

Prepare  every  thing  you  can  the  day  before  the  dinner, 
and  order  every  thing  else  to  be  sent  in  early  in  the  morning ; 
if  the  tradesmen  forget  it,  it  will  allow  you  time  to  send  for  it. 

The  pastry,  jellies,  &c.  you  may  prepare  while  the  broths 
are  doing:  then  truss  your  game  and  poultry,  and  shape 


FRIENDLY  ADVICE   TO  COOKS.  63 

your  collops,  cutlets,  &c.,  and  trim  them  neatly;  cut  away 
all  flaps  and  gristles,  &c.  Nothing  should  appear  on  table 
but  what  has  indisputable  pretensions  to  be  eaten ! 

Put  your  made  dishes  in  plates,  and  arrange  them  upon 
the  dresser  in  regular  order.  Next,  see  that  your  roasts  and 
boils  are  all  nicely  trimmed,  trussed,  &c.  and  quite  ready 
for  the  spit  or  the  pot. 

Have  your  vegetables  neatly  cut,  pared,  picked,  and  clean 
washed  in  the  colander :  provide  a  tin  dish,  with  partitions, 
to  hold  your  fine  herbs :  onions  and  shallots,  parsley,  thyme, 
tarragon,  chervil,  and  burnet,  minced  -very  fine ;  and  lemon- 
peel  grated,  or  cut  thin,  and  chopped  very  small :  pepper  and 
salt  ready  mixed,  and  your  spice-box  and  salt-cellar  always 
ready  for  action :  that  every  thing  you  may  want  may  be  at 
hand  for  your  stove-work,  and  not  be  scampering  about  the 
kitchen  in  a  whirlpool  of  confusion,  hunting  after  these  trifles 
while  the  dinner  is  waiting. 

In  one  drawer  under  your  SPICE-BOX  keep  ready  ground,  in 
well-stopped  bottles,  the  several  spices  separate ;  and  also 
that  n  ixture  of  them  which  is  called  "  ragout  powder"  (No. 
457  or  No.  460) :  in  another,  keep  your  dried  and  powdered 
sweet,  savoury,  and  soup  herbs,  &c.  and  a  set  of  weights 
and  scales :  you  may  have  a  third  drawer,  containing  fla- 
vouring essences,  &c.  an  invaluable  auxiliary  in  finishing 
soups  and  sauces.  (See  the  account  of  the  "  MAGAZINE  OF 

TASTE,"  Or  "  SAUCE-BOX,"  No.  462.) 

Have  also  ready  some  THICKENING,  made  of  the  best 
white  flour  sifted,  mixed  with  soft  water  with  a  wooden 
spoon  till  it  is  the  consistence  of  thick  batter,  a  bottle  of 
plain  BROWNING  (No.  322),  some  strained  lemon-juice,  and 
.some  good  glaze,  or  PORTABLE  soup  (No.  252). 

"  Nothing  can  be  done  in  perfection  which  must  be  done 
in  a  hurry:"*  therefore,  if  you  wish  the  dinner  to  be 
sent  up  to  please  your  master  and  mistress,  and  do  credit 
to  yourself,  be  punctual;  take  care  that  as  soon  as  the 
dock  strikes,  the  dinner-bell  rings :  this  shows  the  establish- 
ment to  be  orderly,  is  extremely  gratifying  to  the  master  and 
his  guests,  and  is  most  praiseworthy  in  the  attendants. 

But  remember,  you  cannot  obtain  this  desirable  reputation 
without  good  management  in  every  respect.  If  you  wish  to 
ensure  ease  and  independence  in  the  latter  part  of  your  life, 
you  must  not  be  unwilling  to  pay  the  price  for  which  only 
they  can  be  obtained,  and  earn  them  by  a  diligent  and 

*  Says  TOM  THRIFTY,  u  except  catching  of  fleas."'  See  T.  T.'a  Essay  on  Early 
Rising. 


64  FRIENDLY  ADVICE   TO   COOKS. 

faithful*  performance  of  the  duties  of  your  station  in  your 
young  days,  which,  if  you  steadily  persevere  in,  you  may 
depend  upon  ultimately  receiving  the  reward  your  services 
deserve. 

All  duties  are  reciprocal:  and  if  you  hope  to  receive 
favour,  endeavour  to  deserve  it  by  showing  yourself  fond  of 
obliging,  and  grateful  when  obliged;  such  behaviour  will 
win  regard,  and  maintain  it:  enforce  what  is  right,  and 
excuse  what  is  wrong. 

Quiet,  steady  perseverance  is  the  only  spring  which  you 
can  safely  depend  upon  for  infallibly  promoting  your  progress 
on  the  road  to  independence. 

If  your  employers  do  not  immediately  appear  to  be 
sensible  of  your  endeavours  to  contribute  your  utmost  to 
their  comfort  and  interest,  be  not  easily  discouraged. 
Persevere,  and  do  all  in  your  power  to  MAKE  YOURSELF 
USEFUL. 

Endeavour  to  promote  the  comfort  of  every  individual  in 
the  family ;  let  it  be  manifest  that  you  are  desirous  to  do 
rather  more  than  is  required  of  you,  than  less  than  your  duty : 
they  merit  little  who  perform  merely  what  would  be  ex- 
acted. If  you  are  desired  to  help  in  any  business  which, 
may  not  strictly  belong  to  your  department,  undertake  it 
cheerfully,  patiently,  and  conscientiously. 

The  foregoing  advice  has  been  written  with  an  honest 
desire  to  augment  the  comfort  of  those  in  the  kitchen,  who 
will  soon  find  that  the  ever-cheering  reflection  of  having 
done  their  duty  to  the  utmost  of  their  ability,  is  in  itself, 
with  a  Christian  spirit,  a  never-failing  source  of  comfort  in 
all  circumstances  and  situations,  and  that 

"  VIRTUE   IS   ITS  OWN   REWARD." 

*  N.B.  "If  you  will  take  half  the  pains  to  deserve  the  regard  of  your  master  and 
mistress  by  being  a  good  and  faithful  servant,  you  take  to  be  considered  a  good 
fellow-servant,  so  many  of  you  would  not,  in  the  decline  of  life,  be  left  destitute  01 
those  comforts  which  age  requires,  nor  have  occasion  to  quote  the  saying  that. 
'  Service  is  no  inheritance,'  unless  your  own  misconduct  makes  it  so. 

"  The  idea  of  being  called  a  tell-tale  has  occasioned  many  good  servants  to  shut 
their  eyes  against  the  frauds  of  fellow-servants. 

"  In  the  eye  of  the  law,  persons  standing  by  and  seeing  a  felony  comrnitted- 
ivhich  they  could  have  prevented,  are  held  equally  guilty  with  thoae  committing  it.'1 
—Dr.  Tnrsi-ER's  Domestic  Management,  p,  12,  and  Instructions  to  Servants. 


TABLE  OF  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 


To  reduce  our  culinary  operations  to  as  exact  a  certainty 
as  the  nature  of  the  processes  would  admit  of,  we  have, 
wherever  it  was  needful,  given  the  quantities  of  each  article. 

The  weights  are  avoirdupois. 

The  measure,  the  graduated  glass  of  the  apothecaries. 
This  appeared  the  most  accurate  and  convenient ;  the.  pint 
being  divided  into  sixteen  ounces,  the  ounce  into  eight  drachms. 
A  middling-sized  tea-spoon  will  contain  about  a  drachm;  four 
such  tea-spoons  are  equal  to  a  middling-sized  table-spoon, 
or  half  an  ounce ;  four  table-spoons  to  a  common-sized 
wine-glass. 

The  specific  gravities  of  the  various  substances  being  so 
extremely  different,  we  cannot  offer  any  auxiliary  standards* 
for  the  weights,  which  we  earnestly  recommend  the  cook  to 
employ,  if  she  wishes  to  gain  credit  for  accuracy  and  uni- 
formity in  her  business :  these  she  will  find  it  necessary  to 
have  as  small  as  the  quarter  of  a  drachm  avoirdupois,  which 
is  equal  to  nearly  seven  grains  troy. 

Glass  measures  (divided  into  tea  and  table-spoons),  con- 
taining from  half  an  ounce  to  half  a  pint,  may  be  procured  j 
also,  the  double-headed  pepper  and  spice  boxes,  with  caps 
over  the  gratings.  The  superiority  of  these,  by  preserving 
the  contents  from  the  action  of  the  air,  must  be  sufficiently 
obvious  to  every  one :  the  fine  aromatic  flavour  of  pepper  is 
soon  lost,  from  the  bottles  it  is  usually  kept  in  not  being  well 
stopped.  Peppers  are  seldom  ground  or  pounded  sufficiently 
fine.  (See  N.B.  to  369.) 

N.B.  The  trough  nutmeg-graters  are  by  far  the  best 
we  have  seen,  especially  for  those  who  wish  to  grate  fine, 
and  fast. 

*  A  large  table-spoonftil  of  flour  weighs  about  half  an  ounce 
F  2 


RUDIMENTS  OF  COOKERY. 


CHAPTER  I. 

BOILING.* 

THIS  most  simple  of  culinary  processes  is  not  often  per- 
formed in  perfection.  It  does  not  require  quite  so  much 
nicety  and  attendance  as  roasting ;  to  skim  your  pot  well, 
and  keep  it  really  boiling  (the  slower  the  better)  all  the 
while,  to  know  how  long  is  required  for  doing  the  joint,  &c., 
and  to  take  it  up  at  the  critical  moment  when  it  is  done 
enough,  comprehends  almost  the  whole  art  arid  mystery. 
This,  however,  demands  a  patient  and  perpetual  vigilance, 
of  which  few  persons  are  capable. 

The  cook  must  take  especial  care  that  the  water  really 
boils  all  the  while  she  is  cooking,  or  she  will  be  deceived  in 
the  time ;  and  make  up  a  sufficient  fire  (a  frugal  cook  will 
manage  with  much  less  fire  for  boiling  than  she  uses  for 
roasting)  at  first,  to  last  all  the  time,  without  much  mending 
or  stirring. 

When  the  pot  is  coming  to  a  boil  there  will  always,  from 

*  "The  process  by  which  food  is  most  commonly  prepared  for  the  table,  BOILINO, 
la  so  familiar  to  every  one,  and  its  effects  are  so  uniform,  and  apparently  so  simple, 
that  few,  I  believe,  have  taken  the  trouble  to  inquire  how  or  in  what  manner  those 
effects  are  produced  ;  and  whether  any,  and  what  improvements  in  that  branch  of 
cookery  are  possible.  So  little  has  this  matter  been  an  object  of  inquiry,  that  few, 
very  few  indeed,  I  believe,  among  tAe  millions  of  persons  who  for  so  many  ages 
have  been  daily  employed  in  this  process,  have  ever  given  themselves  the  trouble  to 
bestow  one  serious  thought  on  the  subject. 

" Boiling  cannot  be  carried  on  without  a  very  great  expense  of  fuel;  but  any 
boiling-hot  liquid  (by  using  proper  means  for  confining  the  heat)  may  be  kept 
boiling-hot  for  any  length  of  time  almost  without  any  expense  of  fuel  at  all. 

"  The  waste  of  fuel  in  culinary  processes,  which  arises  from  making  liquids  boil 
unnecessarily,  or  when  nothing  more  would  be  necessary  than  to  keep  them 
boiling-hot,  is  enormous;  I  have  not  a  doubt  but  that  much  more  than  half  the  fuel 
used  in  all  the  kitchens,  public  and  private,  in  the  whole  world,  is  wasted  precisely 
in  this  manner. 

"  But  the  evil  does  not  stop  here.  This  unscientific  and  slovenly  manner  of 
cooking  renders  the  process  much  more  laborious  and  troublesome  than  otherwise 
it  would  be ;  and,  (what  by  many  will  be  considered  of  more  importance  than 
either  the  waste  of  fuel  or  the  increase  of  labour  to  the  cook)  the  food  is  rendered 
less  savoury,  and  very  probably  less  nourishing  and  less  wholesome. 

"  It  is  natural  to  suppose  that  many  of  the  finer  and  more  volatile  parts  of  food 
(those  which  are  best  calculated  to  act  on  the  organs  of  taste),  must  be  carried 
off  with  the  steam  when  the  boiling  is  violent."— Count  RUMFORD'S  10th  Essay. 
pp.  3.  6. 


BOILING.  67 

the  cleanest  meat  and  clearest  water,  rise  a  scum  to  the  top 
of  it,  proceeding  partly  from  the  water ;  this  must  be  care- 
fully taken  off  as  soon  as  it  rises. 

On  this  depends  the  good  appearance  of  all  boiled  things. 

When  you  have  skimmed  well,  put  in  some  cold  water, 
which  will  throw  up  the  rest  of  the  scum. 

The  oftener  it  is  skimmed,  and  the  cleaner  the  top 
of  the  water  is  kept,  the  sweeter  and  the  cleaner  will  be 
the  meat. 

If  let  alone,  it  soon  boils  down  and  sticks  to  the  meat,* 
which,  instead  of  looking  delicately  white  and  nice,  will 
have  that  coarse  and  filthy  appearance  we  have  too  often  to 
complain  of,  and  the  butcher  and  poulterer  be  blamed  for  the 
carelessness  of  the  cook  in  not  skimming  her  pot. 

Many  put  in  milk,  to  make  what  they  boil  look  white ;  but 
this  does  more  harm  than  good:  others  wrap  it  up  in  a 
cloth ;  but  these  are  needless  precautions :  if  the  scum  be 
attentively  removed,  meat  will  have  a  much  more  delicate 
colour  and  finer  flavour  than  it  has  when  muffled  up.  This 
may  give  rather  more  trouble,  but  those  who  wish  to  excel 
in  their  art  must  only  consider  how  the  processes  of  it  can 
be  most  perfectly  performed :  a  cook,  who  has  a  proper  pride 
and  pleasure  in  her  business,  will  make  this  her  maxim  on 
all  occasions. 

It  is  desirable  that  meat  for  boiling  be  of  an  equal  thick- 
ness, or  before  thicker  parts  are  done  enough  the  thinner  will 
be  done  too  much. 

Put  your  meat  into  cold]  water,  in  the  proportion  of  about 
a  quart  of  water  to  a  pound  of  meat :  it  should  be  covered 
with  water  during  the  whole  of  the  process  of  boiling,  but 
not  drowned  in  it;  the  less  water,  provided  the  meat  be 
covered  with  it,  the  more  savoury  will  be  the  meat,  and  the 
better  will  be  the  broth. 

The  water  should  be  heated  gradually,  according  to  the 
thickness,  &c.  of  the  article  boiled.  For  instance,  a  leg  of 
mutton  of  10  pounds  weight  (No.  1,)  should  be  placed  over 
a  moderate  fire,  which  will  gradually  make  the  water  hot, 
without  causing  it  to  boil  for  about  forty  minutes;  if  the 
water  boils  much  sooner,  the  meat  will  be  hardened,  and 
shrink  up  as  if  it  was  scorched :  by  keeping  the  water  a  cer- 
tain time  heating  without  boiling,  the  fibres  of  the  meat  are 

*  If,  unfortunately,  this  should  happen,  the  cook  must  carefully  take  it  off  when 
she  dishes  up,  either  with  a  clean  sponge  or  a  pasie-bruah. 

t  Cooks,  however,  as  well  as  doctors,  disagree ;  for  some  say,  that  "  all  sorts  of 
fresh  meat  should  be  put  in  when  the  water  boils."  I  prefer  the  above  method  for 
the  reason  given  ;  gentle  stewing  renders  meat,  &c.  tender,  and  still  leaves  it  sapid 
and  nutritive. 


68  BOILING. 

dilated,  and  it  yields  a  quantity  of  scum,  which  must  be  taken 
off  as  soon  as  it  rises. 

"  104.  If  a  vessel  containing  water  be  placed  over  a  steady 
fire,  the  water  will  grow  continually  hotter  till  it  reaches  the 
limit  of  boiling,  after  which  the  regular  accessions  of  heat 
are  wholly  spent  in  converting  it  into  steam. 

"  Water  remains  at  the  same  pitch  of  temperature,  how- 
ever fiercely  it  boils.  The  only  difference  is,  that  with  a 
strong  fire  it  sooner  comes  to  boil,  and  more  quickly  boils 
away,  and  is  converted  into  steam." — BUCHANAN  on  the  Eco- 
nomy of  Fuel,  1810. 

The  editor  placed  a  thermometer  in  water  in  that  state 
which  cooks  call  gentle  simmering;  the  heat  was  212°,  i.  e. 
the  same  degree  as  the  strongest  boiling. 

Two  mutton  chops  were  covered  with  cold  water,  and  one 
boiled  a  gallop,  and  the  other  simmered  very  gently  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour :  the  chop  which  was  slowly  simmered 
was  decidedly  superior  to  that  which  was  boiled;  it  was 
much  tenderer,  more  juicy,  and  much  higher  flavoured.  The 
liquor  which  boiled  fast  was  in  like  proportion  mure  savoury, 
and  when  cold  had  much  more  fat  on  its  surface.  This  ex- 
plains why  quick  boiling  renders  meat  hard,  &c.,  because  its 
juices  are  extracted  in  a  greater  degree. 

Reckon  the  time  from  its  first  coming  to  a  boil. 

The  old  rule  of  15  minutes  to  a  pound  of  meat,  we  think 
rattier  too  little :  the  slower  it  boils,  the  tenderer,  the  plumper, 
and  whiter  it  will  be. 

For  those  who  choose  their  food  thoroughly  cooked  (which 
all  will  who  have  any  regard  for  their  stomachs),  twenty 
minutes  to  a  pound  for  fresh,  and  rather  more  for  salted 
meat,  will  not  be  found  too  much  for  gentle  simmering  by 
the  side  of  the  fire,  allowing  more  or  less  time,  according 
to  the  thickness  of  the  joint,  and  the  coldness  of  the  weather : 
to  know  the  state  of  which,  let  a  thermometer  be  placed  in 
the  pantry ;  and  when  it  falls  below  40°,  tell  your  cook  to 
give  rather  more  time  in  both  roasting  and  boiling,  always 
remembering,  the  slower  it  boils  the  better. 

Without  some  practice  it  is  difficult  to  teach  any  art ;  and 
cooks  seem  to  suppose  they  must  be  right,  if  they  put  meat 
into  a  pot,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  for  a  certain  time,  making 
no  allowance  whether  it  simmers  without  a  bubble  or  boils 
a  gallop. 

Fresh-killed  meat  will  take  much  longer  time  boiling  than 
that  which  has  been  kept  till  it  is  what  the  butchers  call  ripe, 
and  longer  in  cold  than  in  warm  weather :  if  it  be  frozen,  if 
must  be  thawed  before  boiling  as  before  roasting ;  if  it  br 


BOILING.  69 

fresh-killed,  it  will  be  tough  and  hard,  if  you  stew  it  ever  so 
long,  and  ever  so  gently.  In  cold  weather,  the  night  before 
the  day  you  dress  it,  bring  it  into  a  place  of  which  the  tem- 
perature is  not  less  than  45  degrees  of  Fahrenheit's  thermo- 
meter. 

The  size  of  the  boiling-pots  should  be  adapted  to  what 
they  are  to  contain :  the  larger  the  saucepan  the  more  room 
it  takes  upon  the  fire,  and  a  larger  quantity  of  water  requires 
a  proportionate  increase  of  fire  to  boil  it. 

A  little  pot 
Is  soon  hot. 

In  small  families  we  recommend  block  tin  saucepans,  &c. 
as  lightest  and  safest.  If  proper  care  is  taken  of  them,  and 
they  are  well  dried  after  they  are  cleaned,  they  are  by  far 
the  cheapest;  the  purchase  of  a  new  tin  saucepan  being 
little  more  than  the  expense  of  tinning  a  copper  one. 

Let  the  covers  of  your  boiling-pots  fit  close,  not  only  to 
prevent  unnecessary  evaporation  of  the  water,  but  to  prevent 
the  escape  of  the  nutritive  matter,  which  must  then  remain 
either  in  the  meat  or  in  the  broth ;  and  the  smoke  is  pre- 
vented from  insinuating  itself  under  the  edge  of  the  lid,  and 
so  giving  the  meat  a  bad  taste.  See  observations  on  Sauce- 
pans, in  chapter  7. 

.  If  you  let  meat  or  poultry  remain  in  the  water  after  it  is 
done  enough,  it  will  become  sodden,  and  lose  its  flavour. 

Beef  and  mutton  a  little  tmder-done  (especially  very  large 
joints,  which  will  make  the  better  hash  or  broil,)  is  not  a 
great  fault ;  by  some  people  it  is  preferred :  but  lamb,  pork, 
and  veal  are  uneatable  if  not  thoroughly  boiled ;  but  do  not 
oTer-do  them. 

A  trivet  or  fish-drainer  put  on  the  bottom  of  the  boiling- 
pot,  raising  the  contents  about  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the 
bottom,  will  prevent  that  side  of  the  meat  which  comes  next 
the  bottom  from  being  done  too  much,  and  the  lower  part 
of  the  meat  will  be  as  delicately  done  as  the  other  part ;  and 
this  will  enable  you  to  take  out  the  contents  of  the  pot,  with- 
out sticking  a  fork,  &c.  into  it.  If  you  have  not  a  trivet, 
use  four  skewers,  or  a  soup-plate  laid  the  wrong  side  upwards. 

Take  care  of  the  liquor  you  have  boiled  poultry  or  meat 
in;  in  five  minutes  you  may  make  it  into  excellent  soup. 
(See  obs.  to  No.  555  and  No.  229.) 

The  good  housewife  never  boils  a  joint  without  converting 
the  broth  into  some  sort  of  soup  (read  No.  fc,  and  chapter  7). 
Tf  the  liquor  be  too  salt,  only  use  half  the  quantity,  and  the 


70  BOILING. 

rest  water.    Wash  salted  meat  well  with  cold  water  before 
you  put  it  into  the  boiler. 

An  estimation  of  the  LOSS  OF  WEIGHT  which  takes  place  in 
cooking  animal  food. — From  Mr.  TILLOCH'S  Philosophical 
Magazine. 

"  It  is  well  known,  that  in  whatever  way  the  flesh  of  ani- 
mals is  prepared  for  food,  a  considerable  diminution  takes 
place  in  its  weight.  We  do  not  recollect,  however,  to  have 
any  where  seen  a  statement  of  the  loss  which  meat  sustains 
in  the  various  culinary  processes,  although  it  is  pretty  ob- 
vious that  a  series  of  experiments  on  the  subject  would  not 
be  without  their  use  in  domestic  economy. 

"  We  shall  here  give  the  result  of  a  series  of  experiments 
which  were  actually  made  on  this  subject  in  a  public  esta- 
blishment ;  premising  that,  as  they  were  not  undertaken  from 
mere  curiosity,  but,  on  the  contrary,  to  serve  a  purpose  of 
practical  utility,  absolute  accuracy  was  not  attended  to. 
Considering,  however,  the  large  quantities  of  provisions 
which  were  actually  examined,  it  is  presumed  that  the  results 
may  be  safely  depended  upon  for  any  practical  purpose.  It 
would,  no  doubt,  have  been  desirable  to  have  known  not  only 
the  whole  diminution  of  weight,  but  also  the  parts  which 
were  separated  from  the  meat  in  the  form  of  aqueous  vapour, 
jelly,  fat,  &c. ;  but  the  determination  of  these  did  not  fall 
within  the  scope  of  the  inquiry. 

Ibs.    oz. 

28  pieces  of  beef,  weighing    .    .    280    0 

Lost  in  boiling .      73  14 

i 

"Hence,  the  weight  lost  by  beef  in  boiling  was  in  this 
case  about  26£lbs.  in  lOOlbs. 

IbS.      02. 

19  pieces  of  beef,  weighing    .    .     190    0 
Lost  in  roasting 61    2 

"The  weight  lost  by  beef  in  roasting  appears  to  be  32 
per  cent. 

IbS.      02. 

9  pieces  of  beef,  weighing    ...    90    0 
Lost  in  baking 27    0 

"  Weight  lost  by  beef  in  baking  30  per  cent. 


BOILING.  71 

US.      02, 

27  legs  of  mutton,  weighing   .    .    260    0 
Lost  in  boiling,  and  by  having  the 
shank-bone  taken  off  ....      62    4 

"  The  shank-bones  were  estimated  at  4  ounces  each;  there- 
fore the  loss  by  boiling  was  55lbs.  8oz. 

"  The  loss  of  weight  in  legs  of  mutton  in  boiling  is  2H 
per  cent. 

IbS.     OZ. 

35  shoulders  of  mutton,  weighing  .  350    0 
Lost  in  roasting 109  10 

"  The  loss  of  weight  in  shoulders  of  mutton  by  roasting, 
is  about  31£  per  cent. 

Ibs.     oz. 

16  loins  of  mutton,  weighing    .    .  141    0 
Lost  in  roasting  .......    49  14 

"Hence,  loins  of  mutton  lose  by  roasting  about  35 J 
per  cent. 

Us.     oz. 

10  necks  of  mutton,  weighing     .     100    0 
Lost  in  roasting 32    6 

"  The  loss  in  necks  of  mutton  by  roasting  is  about  32£ 
per  cent. 

"  We  shall  only  draw  two  practical  inferences  from  the 
foregoing  statement. —  1st,  In  respect  of  economy,  it  is  more 
profitable  to  boil  meat  than  to  roast  it.  2dly,  Whether  we 
roast  or  boil  meat,  it  loses  by  being  cooked  from  one-fifth  to 
one-third  of  its  whole  weight." 

The  loss  of  roasting  arises  from  the  melting  out  of  the  fat, 
and  evaporating  the  water;  but  the  nutritious  matters  remain 
condensed  in  the  cooked  solid. 

In  boiling,  the  loss  arises  partly  from  the  fat  melted  out, 
but  chiefly  from  gelatine  and  osmazome  being  extracted  and 
dissolved  by  the  water  in  which  the  meat  is  boiled ;  there  is, 
therefore,  a  real  loss  of  nourishment,  unless  the  broth 
be  used;  when  this  mode  of  cooking  becomes  the  most 
economical.* 

*  The  diminution  of  weight  by  boiling  and  roasting  is  not  all  lost,  the  FAT  SKIM- 
MINGS and  the  DRIPPINGS,  nicely  clarified,  will  well  supply  the  place  of  lard  and  for 
irying.  See  No.  83,  and  the  receipt  for  CHEAP  SOUP  (No.  229). 


Tf  BAKING. 


The  sauces  usually  sent  to  table  with  boiled  meat,  fyc. 

These  are  to  be  sent  up  in  boats,  and  never  poured  over 
the  meat,  &c. 

Gravy  for  boiled  meat (No.  327.) 

Parsley  and  butter (No.  261.) 

Chervil (No.  264.) 

Caper (No.  274.) 

Oyster (No.  278.) 

Liver  and  parsley (No.  287.) 

Celery  ........ (No.  28J».) 

Onion (No.  296,  &c.} 

Shallot  .    I (No.  295.) 

Wow  wow (No.  328.) 

Curry (No.  348.) 

BAKING. 

THE  following  observations  were  written  expressly  for 
this  work  by  Mr.  Turner,  English  and  French  bread  and 
biscuit  baker. 

"Baking  is  one  of  the  cheapest  and  most  convenient 
ways  of  dressing  a  dinner  in  small  families ;  and,  I  may 
say,  that  the  oven  is  often  the  only  kitchen  a  poor  man 
has,  if  he  wishes  to  enjoy  a  joint  of  meat  at  home  with  his 
family. 

"  I  don't  mean  to  deny  the  superior  excellence  of  roast- 
ing to  baking;  but  some  joints,  when  baked,  so  nearly 
approach  to  the  same  when  roasted,  that  1  have  known  them 
to  be  carried  to  the  table,  and  eaten  as  such  with  great  satis- 
faction. 

"  Legs  and  loins  of  pork,  legs  of  mutton,  fillets  of  veal, 
and  many  other  joints,  will  bake  to  great  advantage,  if  the 
meat  be  good ;  I  mean  well-fed,  rather  inclined  to  be  fat :  if 
the  meat  be  poor,  no  baker  can  give  satisfaction. 

"  When  baking  a  poor  joint  of  meat,  before  it  has  been 
half  baked  I  have  seen  it  start  from  the  bone,  and  shrivel  up 
scarcely  to  be  believed. 

"  Besides  those  joints  above  mentioned,  I  shall  enu- 
merate a  few  baked  dishes  which  I  can  particularly  re- 
commend. 

"A  pig,  when  sent  to  the  baker  prepared  for  baking, 
should  have  its  ears  and  tail  covered  with  buttered  paper 
properly  fastened  on,  and  a  bit  of  butter  tied  up  in  a  piece  of 
linen  to  baste  the  back  with,  otherwise  it  will  be  apt  to 
blister :  with  a  proper  share  of  attention  from  the  baker,  I 
consider  this  way  equal  to  a  roasted  one. 


BAKING.  73 

"  A  goose  prepared  the  same  as  for  roasting,  taking  care 
to  have  it  on  a  stand,  and  when  half  done  to  turn  the  other 
side  upwards.  A  duck  the  same. 

"A  buttock  of  beef  the  following  way  is  particularly  fine. 
After  it  has  been  in  salt  about  a  week,  to  be  well  washed, 
and  put  into  a  brown  earthen  pan  with  a  pint  of  water; 
cover  the  pan  tight  with  two  or  three  thicknesses  of  cap 
or  foolscap  paper :  never  cover  any  thing  that  is  to  be  baked 
with  brown  paper,  the  pitch  and  tar  that  is  ingrown  paper 
will  give  the  meat  a  smoky,  bad  taste :  give  it  four  or  five 
hours  in  a  moderately  heated  oven. 

"  A  ham  (if  not  too  old)  put  in  soak  for  an  hour,  taken  out 
and  wiped,  a  crust  made  sufficient  to  cover  it  all  over,  and 
baked  in  a  moderately  heated  oven,  cuts  fuller  of  gravy,  and 
of  a  finer  flavour,  than  a  boiled  one.  I  have  been  in  the  habit 
of  baking  small  cod-fish,  haddock,  and  mackerel,  with  a  dust 
of  flour,  and  some  bits  of  butter  put  on  them ;  eels,  when 
large  and  stuffed ;  herrings  and  sprats,  in  a  brown  pan,  with 
vinegar  and  a  little  spice,  and  tied  over  with  paper.  A  hare, 
prepared  the  same  as  for  roasting,  with  a  few  pieces  of 
butter,  and  a  little  drop  of  milk  put  into  the  dish,  and 
basted  several  times,  will  be  found  nearly  equal  to  roasting; 
or  cut  it  up,  season  it  properly,  put  it  into  a  jar  or  pan,  and 
cover  it  over  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  three 
hours.  In  the  same  manner,  I  have  been  in  the  habit  of 
baking  legs  and  shins  of  beef,  ox  cheeks,  &c.  prepared 
with  a  seasoning  of  onions,  turnips,  &c. :  they  will  take 
about  four  hours :  let  them  stand  till  cold,  to  skim  off  the 
fat;  then  warm  it  up  all  together,  or  part,  as  you  may 
want  it. 

"  All  these  I  have  been  in  the  habit  of  baking  for  the  first 
families. 

"  The  time  each  of  the  above  articles  should  take  depends 
much  upon  the  state  of  the  oven,  and  I  do  consider  the  baker 
a  sufficient  judge ;  if  they  are  sent  to  him  in  time,  he  must 
be  very  neglectful  if  they  are  not  ready  at  the  time  they  arc 
ordered." 

For  receipts  for  making  bread,  French  rolls,  muffins, 
crumpets,  Sally  Limn,  &c.,  see  the  Appendix. 


74  ROASTING. 

CHAPTER  II. 

ROASTING. 

IN  all  studies,  it  is  the  best  practice  to  begin  with  the 
plainest  and  easiest  parts ;  and  so  on,  by  degrees,  to  such  as 
are  more  difficult :  we,  therefore,  treated  of  plain  boiling, 
and  we  now  proceed  to  roasting :  we  shall  then  gradually 
unravel  to  our  culinary  students  the  art  (and  mystery,  until 
developed  in  this  work)  of  making,  with  the  least  trouble 
and  expense,  the  most  highly  finished  soups,  sauces,  and 
made-dishes. 

Let  the  young  cook  never  forget  that  cleanliness  is  the 
chief  cardinal  virtue  of  the  kitchen ;  the  first  preparation  for 
roasting  is  to  take  care  that  the  spit  be  properly  cleaned  with 
sand  and  water;  nothing  else.  When  it  has  been  well 
scoured  with  this,  dry  it  with  a  clean  cloth.  If  spits  are 
wiped  clean  as  soon  as  the  meat  is  drawn  from  them,  and 
while  they  are  hot,  a  very  little  cleaning  will  be  required. 
The  less  the  spit  is  passed  through  the  meat  the  better  ;* 
and,  before  you  spit  it,  joint  it  properly,  especially  necks  and 
loins,  that  the  carver  may  separate  them  easily  and  neatly, 
and  take  especial  care  it  be  evenly  balanced  on  the  spit,  that 
its  motion  may  be  regular,  and  the  fire  operate  equally  on 
each  part  of  it;  therefore,  be  provided  with  balancing- 
skewers  and  cookholds,  and  see  it  is  properly  jointed. 

Roasting  should  be  done  by  the  radiant  heat  of  a  clear, 
glowing  fire,  otherwise  it  is  in  fact  baked :  the  machines  the 
economical  grate-makers  call  ROASTERS,  are,  in  plain  Eng- 
lish, ovens. 

Count  Rumford  was  certainly  an  exact  economist  of  fuel, 
when  he  contrived  these  things ;  and  those  philosophers  who 
try  all  questions  "  according  to  Cocker"  may  vote  for  baked 
victuals ;  but  the  rational  epicure,  who  has  been  accustomed 
to  enjoy  beef  well  roasted,  will  soon  be  convinced  that  the 

*  SMALL  families  have  not  always  the  convenience  of  roasting  with  a  spit ;  a 
remark  upon  ROASTING  BY  A  STRING  is  necessary.  Let  the  cook,  before  she  puts 
her  meat  down  to  the  fire,  pass  a  strong  skewer  through  each  end  of  the  joint :  by 
this  means,  when  it  is  about  half-done,  she  can  with  ease  turn  the  bottom  upwards ; 
the  gravy  will  then  flow  to  the  part  which  has  been  uppermost,  and  the  whole  joint 
be  deliciouslygravyful. 

A  BOTTLE  JACK,  as  it  is  termed  by  the  furnishing  ironmongers,  is  a  valuable  instrii- 
mentfor  roasting. 

A  DUTCH  OVEN  is  another  very  convenient  utensil  for  roasting  light  joints,  or 
warming  .them  tip. 


ROASTING.  7S 

poet  who  wrote  our  national  ballad  at  the  end  of  this  chapter, 
was  not  inspired  by  Sir  Benjamin  Thompson's  cookery. 

All  your  attention  in  roasting1  will  be  thrown  away,  if  you 
do  not  take  care  that  your  meat,  especially  beef,  has  been 
kept  long  enough  to  be  tender.  See  "  ADVICE  TO  COOKS," 
and  obs.  to  No.  68. 

Make  up  the  fire  in  time ;  let  it  be  proportioned  to  the  din- 
ner to  be  dressed,  and  about  three  or  four  inches  longer  at 
each  end  than  the  thing  to  be  roasted,  or  the  ends  of  the  meat 
cannot  be  done  nice  and  brown. 

A  cook  must  be  as  particular  to  proportion  her  fire  to  the 
business  she  has  to  do,  as  a  chemist :  the  degree  of  heat 
most  desirable  for  dressing  the  different  sorts  of  food  ought 
to  be  attended  to  with  the  utmost  precision. 

The  fire  that  is  but  just  sufficient  to  receive  the  noble  sir- 
loin (No.  19),  will  parch  up  a  lighter  joint. 

From  half  an  hour  to  an  hour  before  you  begin  to  roast, 
prepare  the  fire  by  putting  a  few  coals  on,  which  will  be 
sufficiently  lighted  by  the  time  you  wish  to  make  use  of  your 
fire ;  between  the  bars,  and  on  the  top,  put  small  or  large 
coals,  according  to  the  bulk  of  the  joint,  and  the  time  the  fire 
is  required  to  be  strong;  after  which,  throw  the  cinders 
(wetted)  at  the  back. 

Never  put  meat  down  to  a  burned-up  fire,  if  you  can  pos- 
sibly avoid  it ;  but  should  the  fire  become  fierce,  place  the 
spit  at  a  considerable  distance,  and  allow  a  little  more  time. 

Preserve  the  fat,*  by  covering  it  with  paper,  for  this  pur- 
pose called  "  kitchen-paper,"  and  tie  it  on  with  fine  twine ; 
pins  and  skewers  can  by  no  means  be  allowed ;  they  are  so 
many  taps  to  let  out  the  gravy:  besides,  the  paper  often 
starts  from  them  and  catches  fire,  to  the  great  injury  of  the 
meat. 

If  the  thing  to  be  roasted  be  thin  and  tender,  the  fire  should  • 
be  little  and  brisk:  when  you  have  a  large  joint  to  roast, 
make  up  a  sound,  strong  fire,  equally  good  in  every  part  of 
the  grate,  or  your  meat  cannot  be  equally  roasted,  nor  have 
that  uniform  colour  which  constitutes  the  beauty  of  good 
roasting. 

Give  the  fire  a  good  stirring  before  you  lay  the  joint 
down;  examine  it  from  time  to  time  while  the  spit  is 
going  round;  keep  it  clear  at  the  bottom,  and  take  care 
there  are  no  smoky  coals  in  the  front,  which  will  spoil  the 
look  and  taste  of  the  meat,  and  hinder  it  from  roasting  evenly. 


*  If  there  is  more  TAT  than  you  think  will  be  eaten  with  the  lean,  trim  it  off;  i; 
will  make  an  excellent  PUDDINO(NO.  551,  or  554) :  or  clarify  it  (No.  83). 


76  ROASTING. 

When  the  joint  to  be  roasted  is  thicker  at  one  end  than  the 
other,  place  the  spit  slanting,  with  the  thickest  part  nearest 
the  fire. 

Do  not  put  meat  too  near  the  fire  at  first ;  the  larger  the 
joint,  the  farther  it  must  be  kept  from  the  fire :  if  once  it  gets 
scorched,  the  outside  will  become  hard,  and  acquire  a  dis- 
agreeable, empyreumatie  taste ;  and  the  fire  being  prevented 
from  penetrating  into  it,  the  meat  will  appear  done  before  it 
is  little  more  than  half-done,  besides  losing  the  pale  brown 
colour,  which  it  is  the  beauty  of  roasted  meat  to  have. 

From  14  to  10  inches  is  the  usual  distance  at  which  meat 
is  put  from  the  grate,  when  first  put  down.  It  is  extremely 
difficult  to  offer  any  thing  like  an  accurate  general  rule  for 
this,  it  depends  so  much  upon  the  size  of  the  fire,  and  of  that 
of  the  thing  to  be  roasted. 

Till  some  culinary  philosopher  shall  invent  a  thermometer 
to  ascertain  the  heat  of  the  fire,  and  a  graduated  spit-rack  to 
regulate  the  distance  from  it,  the  process  of  roasting  is  at- 
tended by  so  many  ever-varying  circumstances,  that  it  must 
remain  among  those  which  can  only  be  performed  well,  by 
frequent  practice  and  attentive  observation. 

If  you  wish  your  jack  to  go  well,  keep  it  as  clean  as  pos- 
sible, oil  it,  and  then  wipe  it :  if  the  oil  is  not  wiped  off  again 
it  will  gather  dust ;  to  prevent  this,  as  soon  as  you  have  done 
roasting,  cover  it  up.  Never  leave  the  winders  on  while  the 
jack  is  going  round,  unless  you  do  it,  as  Swift  says,  "  that 
it  may  fly  off,  and  knock  those  troublesome  servants  on  the 
head  who  will  be  crowding  round  your  kitchen  fire." 

Be  very  careful  to  place  the  dripping-pan  at  such  a  dis- 
tance from  the  fire  as  just  to  catch  the  drippings  :  if  it  is  too 
near,  the  ashes  will  fall  into  it,  and  spoil  the  drippings*  (which 
we  shall  hereafter  show  will  occasionally  be  found  an  excel- 
lent substitute  for  butter  or  lard).  To  clarify  drippings,  see 
(No.  83,)  and  pease  and  dripping  soup  (No.  229),  savoury  and 
salubrious,  for  only  a  penny  per  quart.  If  it  is  too  far  from 
the  fire  to  catch  them,  you  will  not  only  lose  your  drippings, 
but  the  meat  will  be  blackened  and  spoiled  by  the  foetid  smoke, 
which  will  arise  when  the  fat  falls  on  the  live  cinders. 

A  large  dripping-pan  is  convenient  for  several  purposes. 
It  should  not  be  less  than  28  inches  long  and  20  inches  wide, 
and  have  a  covered  well  on  the  side  from  the  fire,  to  collect 
the  drippings ;  this  will  preserve  them  in  the  most  delicate 

*  This  the  good  housewife  will  take  up  occasionally,  and  pass  through  a  sieve  info 
a  stone  pan ;  by  leaving  it,  all  in  the  dripping-pan  until  the  njeat  is  taken  up,  it  not 
only  becomes  very  strong,  but  when  the  meat  is  rich,  and  yields  much  of  it,  it  is  apt 
to  be  spilt  in  basting.  To  CLARIFY  DRIPPINGS,  see  No.  83. 


ROASTING.  77 

state :  in  a  pan  of  the  above  size  you  may  set  fried  fish,  and 
various  dishes,  to  keep  hot. 

This  is  one  of  Painter's  and  Hawke's  contrivances,  near 
Norfolk-street,  Strand. 

The  time  meat  will  take  roasting  will  vary  according  to 
the  time  it  has  been  kept,  and  the  temperature  of  the 
weather ;  the  same  weight*  will  be  twenty  minutes  or  half 
an  hour  longer  in  cold  weather,  f  than  it  will  be  in  warm ; 
and  if  fresh  killed,  than  if  it  has  been  kept  till  it  is  tender. 

A  good  meat-screen  is  a  great  saver  of  fuel.  It  should 
be  on  wheels,  have  a  flat. top,  and  not  be  less  than  about 
three  feet  and  a  half  wide,  and  with  shelves  in  it,  about 
one  foot  deep ;  it  will  then  answer  all  the  purposes  of  a 
large  Dutch  oven,  plate-warmer,  hot  hearth,  &c.  Some  are 
made  wtih  a  door  behind :  this  is  convenient,  but  the  great 
heat  they  are  exposed  to  soon  shrinks  the  materials,  and  the 
currents  of  air  through  the  cracks  cannot  be  prevented,  so  they 
are  better  without  the  door.  We  have  seen  one,  which  had 
on  the  top  of  it  a  very  convenient  hot  closet,  which  is  a  great  ac- 
quisition in  kitchens,  where  the  dinner  waits  after  it  is  dressed. 

Every  body  knows  the  advantage  of  slow  boiling.  Slow 
roasting  is  equally  important. 

It  is  difficult  to  give  any  specific  rule  for  time ;  but  if  your 
fire  is  made  as  before  directed,  your  meat-screen  sufficiently 
large  to  guard  what  you  are  dressing  from  currents  of  air,  and 
the  meat  is  not  frosted,  you  cannot  do  better  than  follow 
the  old  general  rule  of  allowing  rather  more  than  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  to  the  pound ;  a  little  more  or  less,  according  to 
the  temperature  of  the  weather,  in  proportion  as  the  piece  is 
thick  or  thin,  the  strength  of  the  fire,  the  nearness  of  the 
meat  to  it,  and  the  frequency  with  which  you  baste  it ;  the 
more  it  is  basted  the  less  time  it  will  take,  as  it  keeps  the 
meat  soft  and  mellow  on  the  outside,  and  the  fire  acts  with 
more  force  upon  it. 

Reckon  the  time,  not  to  the  hour  when  dinner  is  ordered, 
but  to  the  moment  the  roasts  will  be  wanted.  Supposing 
there  are  a  dozen  people  to  sip  soup  and  eat  fish  first,  you  may 
allow  them  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  for  the  former,  and  about 
as  long  for  the  latter,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  tempta- 
tions the  "  BON  GOUT"  of  these  preceding  courses  has  to  at- 
tract their  attention. 


*  Insist  upon  the  butcher  fixing-  a  TICKET  of  the  weight  to  each  joint. 

T  IF  THE  MEAT  is  FROZEN,  the  usual  practice  is  to  put  it  into  cold  water  till  it  is 
thawed,  then  dry  and  roast  it  as  usual ;  but  we  recommend  you  to  bring  it  into  the 
kitchen  the  night  before,  or  early  in  the  morning  of  the  day  you  want  to  roast  it,  and 
vhc  warm  air  will  thaw  it  much  better. 

G2 


78  ROASTING. 

When  the  joint  is  half  done,  remove  the  spit  and  dripping- 
pan  back,  and  stir  up  your  fire  thoroughly,  that  it  may  burn 
clear  and  bright  for  the  browning ;  when  the  steam  from  the 
meat  draws  towards  the  fire,*  it  is  a  sign  of  its  being  done 
enough ;  but  you  will  be  the  best  judge  of  that,  from  the  time 
it  has  been  down,  the  strength  of  the  fire  you  have  used,  and 
the  distance  your  spit  has  been  from  it. 

Half  an  hour  before  your  meat  is  done,  make  some  gravy 
(see  Receipt,  No.  326)  ;  and  just  before  you  take  it  up,  put  it 
nearer  the  fire  to  brown  it.  If  you  wish  to  froth  it,  baste  it, 
and  dredge  it  with  flour  carefully :  you  cannot  do  this  deli- 
cately nice  without  a  very  good  light.  The  common  fault 
seems  to  be  using  too  much  flour.  The  meat  should  have  a 
fine  light  varnish  of  froth,  not  the  appearance  of  being  covered 
with  a  paste.  Those  who  are  particular  about  the  froth  use 
butter  instead  of  drippings ;  (see  receipt  to  roast  a  turkey, 
No.  57)— 

"  And  send  up  what  you  roast  with  relish-giving  froth," 

says  Dr.  King,  and  present  such  an  agreeable  appearance  to 
the  eye,  that  the  palate  may  be  prepossessed  in  its  favour  at 
first  sight ;  therefore,  have  the  whole  course  dished,  before 
roasts  are  taken  from  the  fire. 

A  good  cook  is  as  anxiously  attentive  to  the  appearance 
and  colour  of  her  roasts,  as  a  court  beauty  is  to  her  com- 
plexion at  a  birthday  ball.  If  your  meat  does  not  brown  so 
much,  or  so  evenly  as  you  wish,  take  two  ounces  of  Glaze, 
i.  e.  portable  soup,  put  four  table-spoonfuls  of  water,  and  let 
it  warm  and  dissolve  gradually  by  the  side  of  the  fire.  This 
will  be  done  in  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  put  it  on  the 
meat  equally  all  over  with  a  paste-brush  the  last  thing  before 
it  goes  to  table. 

Though  roasting  is  one  of  the  most  common,  and  is  gene- 
rally considered  one  of  the  most  easy  and  simple  processes 
of  cookery,  it  requires  more  unremitting  attention  to  perform 
it  perfectly  well  than  it  does  to  make  most  made-dishes. 

That  made-dishes  are  the  most  difficult  preparations,  de- 
serves to  be  reckoned  among  the  culinary  vulgar  errors ;  in 
plain  roasting  and  boiling  it  is  not  easy  to  repair  a  mistake 
once  made ;  and  all  the  discretion  and  attention  of  a  steady, 
careful  cook,  must  be  unremittingly  upon  the  alert.f 

*  When  the  steam  begins  to  arise,  it  is  a  proof  that  the  whole  joint  is  thoroughly 
saturated  with  heat ;  any  unnecessary  evaporation  is  a  waste  of  the  best  nourish- 
ment of  the  meat. 

f  A  celebrated  French  writer  has  given  us  the  following  observations  on  roasting:— 

"  The  art  of  roasting  victuals  to  the  precise  degree,  is  one  of  the  most  difficult  in 

this  world;  and  you  may  find  half  a  thousand  good  cooks  sooner  than  one  perfect 


EOASTIXG.  79 

A  diligent  attention  to  time,  the  distance  of  the  meat  from, 
and  judicious  management  of,  the  fire,  and  frequent  bastings,* 
are  all  the  general  rules  we  can  prescribe.  We  shall  deliver 
particular  rules  for  particular  things,  as  the  several  articles 
occur,  and  do  our  utmost  endeavours  to  instruct  our  reader 
as  completely  as  words  can  describe  the  process,  and  teach 

"The  management  of  common  things  so  well, 
That  what  was  thought  the  meanest  shall  excel: 
That  cook 's  to  British  palates  most  complete, 
Whose  sav'ry  skill  gives  zest  to  common  meat: 
For  what  are  soups,  your  ragoQts,  and  your  sauce. 
Compared  to  the  fare  of  OLD  ENGLAND, 
And  OLD  ENGLISH  ROAST  BEEF  !" 

*  TAKE  NOTICE,  that  the  TIME  given  in  the  following  re- 
ceipts is  calculated  for  those  who  like  meat  thoroughly 
roasted.     (See  N.B.  preceding  No.  19.) 
Some  good  housewives  order  very  large  joints  to  be  rather 
under-done,  as  they  then  make  a  better  hash  or  broil. 
To  make  gravy  for  roast,  see  No.  326. 
N.B.  Roasts  must  not  be  put  on,  till  the  soup  and^s/i  are 
taken  off  the  table. 

roaster.  (See '  Jllmanach  dcs  Gourmands?  vol.  i.  p.  37.)  In  the  mansions  of  the 
opulent,  they  have,  besides  the  master  kitchener,  a  roaster,  (perfectly  independent 
of  the  former,)  who  is  exclusively  devoted  to  the  spit. 

"  All  erudite  gourmands  know  that  these  two  important  functions  cannot  be  per- 
formed by  one  artist ;  it  is  quite  impossible  at  the  same  time  to  superintend  the  ope 
rations  of  the  spit  and  stewpan." — Further  on,  the  same  author  observes:  "No 
certain  rules  can  be  given  for  roasting,  the  perfection  of  it  depending  on  many  cir- 
cumstances which  are  continually  changing ;  the  age  and  size  (especially  the  thick- 
ness) of  the  pieces,  the  quality  of  the  coals,  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  the 
currents  of  air  in  the  kitchen,  the  more  or  less  attention  of  the  roaster ;  and,  lastly, 
the  time  of  serving.  Supposing  the  dinner  ordered  to  be  on  table  at  a  certain  time,  il' 
the  fish  and  soup  are  much  liked,  and  detained  longer  than  the  roaster  has  calcu- 
lated ;  or,  on  the  contrary,  if  they  are  despatched  sooner  than  is  expected,  the  roasts 
will  in  one  case  be  burnt  up,  in  the  other  not  done  enough— two  misfortunes  equally 
to  be  deplored.  The  first,  however,  is  without  a  remedy ;  five  minutes  on  Vie  spit, 
more  or  less,  decides  the  goodness  of  this  mode  of  cookery.  It  is  almost  impossible 
to  seize  the  precise  instant  when  it  ought  to  be  eaten ;  which  epicures  in  roasts 
express  by  saying,  '  It  is  done  to  a  turn.'  So  that  there  is  no  exaggeration  in  saying, 
the  perfect  roaster  is  even  more  rare  than  the  professed  cook. 

"  In  small  families,  where  the  cook  is  also  the  roaster,  it  is  almost  impossible  the 
roasts  should  be  well  done:  the  spit  claims  exclusive  attention,  and  is  an  imperious 
mistress  who  demands  the  entire  devotion  of  her  slave.  But  how  can  this  be,  when 
the  cook  is  obliged,  at  the  same  time,  to  attend  her  fish  and  soup-kettles,  and  watch 
lier  stewpans  and  all  their  accompaniments  ? — it  is  morally  and  physically  impos- 
sible :  if  stie  gives  that  delicate  and  constant  attention  to  the  roasts  which  is  indis- 
pensably requisite,  the  rest  of  the  dinner  must  often  be  spoiled ;  and  most  cooks 
would  rather  lose  their  character  as  a  roaster,  than  neglect  the  made-dishes  and 
'  entremets,'  &c.,  where  they  think  they  can  display  their  culinary  science,— than 
sacrifice  these  to  the  roasts,  the  perfection  of  which  will  only  prove  their  steady 
vigilance  and  patience." 

*  Our  ancestors  were  very  particular  in  their  BASTINGS  and  DREDGINGS,  as  will 
be  seen  by  the  following  quotation  from  MAY'S  "  Accomplished  Cook,"  London,  1665, 
p.  136.  "  The  rarest  ways  of  dressing  of  all  manner  of  roast  meats,  either  flesh  or 
fowl,  by  sea  or  land,  and  divers  ways~of  breading  or  dredging  meats  to  prevent  the 
gravy  from  too  much  evaporating." 


30  PRYING. 

DREDGING  £, 

1.  Flour  mixed  with  grated  bread. 

2.  Sweet  herbs  dried  and  powdered,  and  mixed  with  grated  bread. 

3.  Lemon-peel  dried  and  pounded,  or  orange-peel,  mixed  with  flour. 

4.  Sugar  finely  powdered,  and  mixed  with  pounded  cinnamon,  and  flour  or  grated 
bread. 

5.  Fennel-seeds,  corianders,  cinnamon,  and  sugar,  finely  beaten,  and  mixed  with 
grated  bread  or  flour. 

6.  For  young  pigs,  grated  bread  or  flour,  mixed  with  beaten  nutmeg,  ginger, 
pepper,  sugar,  and  yelks  of  eggs. 

7.  Sugar,  bread,  and  salt,  mixed. 

BASTINGS. 

;  1.  Fresh  butter. 

2.  Clarified  suet. 

3.  Minced  sweet  herbs,  butter,  and  claret,  especially  for  mutton  and  lamb. 

4.  Water  and  salt. 

5.  Cream  and  melted  butter,  especially  for  a  flayed  pig. 
^  Yelks  of  eggs,  grated  biscuit,  and  juice  of  oranges. 


CHAPTER  III. 

FRYING. 

FRYING  is  often  a  convenient  mode  of  cookery;  it  maybe 
performed  by  a  fire  which  will  not  do  for  roasting  or  boiling; 
and  by  the  introduction  of  the  pan  between  the  meat  and  the 
fire,  things  get  more  equally  dressed. 

The  Dutch  oven  or  bonnet  is  another  very  convenient 
utensil  for  small  things,  and  a  very  useful  substitute  for  the 
jack,  the  gridiron,  or  frying-pan. 

A  frying-pan  should  be  about  four  inches  deep,  with  a 
perfectly  flat  and  thick  bottom,  12  inches  long  and  9 
broad,  with  perpendicular  sides,  and  must  be  half  filled  with 
fat :  good  frying  is,  in  fact,  boiling  in  fat.  To  make  sure  that, 
the  pan  is  quite  clean,  rub  a  little  fat  over  it,  and  then  make 
it  warm,  and  wipe  it  out  with  a  clean  cloth. . 

Be  very  particular  in  frying,  never  to  use  any  oil,  butter, 
lard,  or  drippings,  but  what  is  quite  clean,  fresh,  and 
free  from  salt.  Any  thing  dirty  spoils  the  look ;  any  thing- 
bad-tasted  or  stale,  spoils  the  flavour ;  and  salt  prevents  its 
browning. 

Fine  olive  oil  is  the  most  delicate  for  frying ;  but  the  best 
oil  is  expensive,  and  bad  oil  spoils  every  thing  that  is  dressed 
with  it. 

For  general  purposes,  and  especially  for  fish,  clean  fresh 


FRYING.  81 

lard  is  not  near  so  expensive  as  oil  or  clarified  butter,  and 
does  almost  as  well.  Butter  often  burns  before  you  are 
aware  of  it;  and  what  you  fiy  will  get  a  dark  and  dirty 
appearance. 

Cooks  in  large  kitchens,  where  there  is  a  great  deal  of 
frying,  commonly  use  mutton  or  beef  suet  clarified  (see  No. 
84) :  if  from  the  kidney,  all  the  better. 

Dripping,  if  nicely  clean  and  fresh,  is  almost  as  good  as 
any  thing ;  if  not  clean,  it  may  be  easily  clarified  (see  No. 
83).  Whatever  fat  you  use,  after  you  have  done  frying,  let 
it  remain  in  the  pan  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  pour  it 
through  a  sieve  into  a  clean  basin;  it  will  do  three  or  four 
times  as  well  as  it  did  at  first,  i.  e.  if  it  has  not  burned:  but, 
Mem.  the  fat  you  have  fried  fish  in  must  not  be  used  for  any 
other  purpose. 

To  know  when  the  fat  is  of  a  proper  heat,  according  to 
what  you  are  to  fry,  is  the  great  secret  in  frying. 

To  fry  fish,  parsley,  potatoes,  or  any  thing  that  is  watery, 
your  fire  must  be  very  clear,  and  the  fat  quite  hot ;  which  you 
may  be  pretty  sure  of,  when  it  has  done  hissing,  and  is  still. 
We  cannot  insist  too  strongly  on  this  point :  if  the  fat  is  not 
very  hot,  you  cannot  fry  fish  either  to  a  good  colour,  or  firm 
•and  crisp. 

To  be  quite  certain,  throw  a  little  bit  of  bread  into  the  pan ; 
if  it  fries  crisp,  the  fat  is  ready;  if  it  burns  the  bread,  it  is 
too  hot. 

The  fire  under  the  pan  must  be  clear  and  sharp,  otherwise 
the  fat  is  so  long  before  it  becomes  ready,  and  demands  such 
attendance  to  prevent  the  accident  of  its  catching  fire,*  thai 
the  patience  of  cooks  is  exhausted,  and  they  frequently,  from 
ignorance  or  impatience,  throw  in  what  they  are  going  to  fry 
before  the  fat  is  half  hot  enough.  Whatever  is  so  fried  will 
be  pale  and  sodden,  and  offend  the  palate  and  stomach  not 
less  than  the  eye. 

Have  a  good  light  to  fry  by,  that  you  may  see  when  you 
have  got  the  right  colour :  a  lamp  fixed  on  a  stem,  with  a 
loaded  foot,  which  has  an  arm  that  lengthens  out,  and  slides 
up  and  down  like  a  reading  candlestick,  is  a  most  useful 
appendage  to  kitchen  fireplaces,  which  are  very  seldom  light 
enough  for  the  nicer  operations  of  cookery. 

After  all,  if  you  do  not  thoroughly  drain  the  fat  from  what 

*  If  this  unfortunately  happens,  be  not  alarmed,  but  immediately  wet  a  basket  of 
ashes  and  throw  them  down  the  chimney,  and  wet  a  blanket  and  hold  it  close  all 
round  the  fireplace ;  as  soon  as  the  current  of  air  is  stopped,  the  fire  will  be  exlin 
guished :  with  a  CHARCOAL  STOVE  there  is  no  danger,  as  the  diameter  of  the  pan 
exceeds  that  of  the  fire. 


32  BROILING. 

you  hare  fried,  especially  from  those  things  that  are  fuli 
dressed  in  bread  crumbs,*  or  biscuit  powder,  &c.,  your  cook- 
ing- will  do  you  no  credit. 

The  dryness  of  fish  depends  much  upon  its  having  been 
fried  in  fat  of  a  due  degree  of  heat ;  it  is  then  crisp  and  dry- 
in  a  few  minutes  after  it  is  taken  out  of  the  pan :  when  it  is 
not,  lay  it  on  a  soft  cloth  before  the  fire,  turning  it  occasion- 
ally, till  it  is.  This  will  sometimes  take  15  minutes :  therefore, 
always  fry  fish  as  long  as  this  before  you  want  them,  for  fear 
you  may  find  this  necessary. 

To  fry  fish,  see  receipt  to  fry  soles,  (No.  145)  which  is  the 
only  circumstantial  account  of  the  process  that  has  yet  been 
printed.  If  the  cook  will  study  it  with  a  little  attention,  she 
must  soon  become  an  accomplished  frier. 

Frying,  though  one  of  the  most  common  of  culinary 
operations,  is  one  that  is  least  commonly  performed  per- 
fectly well. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

BROILING. 

And  as  now  there  is  nought  on  the  fire  that  is  spoiling. 

We  '11  give  you  just  two  or  three  hints  upon  broiling ; 

How  oft  you  must  turn  a  beefsteak,  and  how  seldom 

A  good  mutton  chop,  for  to  have  'em  both  well  done  ; 

And  for  skill  in  such  cookery  your  credit 't  will  fetch  up, 

If  your  broils  are  well-seasoned  with  good  mushroom  catchup." 

CLEANLINESS  is  extremely  essential  in  this  mode  of 
cookery. 

Keep  your  gridiron  quite  clean  between  the  bars,  and 
bright  on  the  top:  when  it  is  hot,  wipe  it  well  with  a 
linen  cloth :  just  before  you  use  it,  rub  the  bars  with  clean 
mutton-suet,  to  prevent  the  meat  from  being  marked  by  the 
gridiron. 

Take  care  to  prepare  your  fire  in  time,  so  that  it  may  bum 
quite  clear :  a  brisk  and  clear  fire  is  indispensable,  or  you 
cannot  give  your  meat  that  browning  which  constitutes  the 

*  When  you  want  a  great  many  BREAD  carwBS,  divide  your  loaf  (which  should 
be  two  days  old)  into  three  equal  parts ;  take  the  middle  or  crumb  piece,  the  top  and 
bottom  will  do  for  table :  in  the  usual  way  of  cutting,  the  e.rust  is  wasted. 

OATMEAL  is  a  very  satisfactory,  and  an  extremely  economical  substitute  for  bread 
8*6  No.  145. 


VEGETABLES.  83 

perfection  of  this  mode  of  cookery,  and  gives  a  relish  to  food 
it  cannot  receive  any  other  way. 

The  chops  or  slices  should  be  from  half  to  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  in  thickness ;  if  thicker,  they  will  be  done  too 
much  on  the  outside  before  the  inside  is  done  enough. 

Be  diligently  attentive  to  watch  the  moment  that  any  thing 
is  done :  never  hasten  any  thing  that  is  broiling,  lest  you 
make  smoke  and  spoil  it. 

Let  the  bars  of  the  gridiron  be  all  hot  through,  but  yet  not 
burning  hot  upon  the  surface :  this  is  the  perfect  and  fine 
condition  of  the  gridiron. 

As  the  bars  keep  away  as  much  heat  as  their  breadth 
covers,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  they  should  be  thoroughly 
hot  before  the  thing  to  be  cooked  be  laid  on  them. 

The  bars  of  gridirons  should  be  made  concave,  and  termi- 
nate in  a  trough  to  catch  the  gravy  and  keep  the  fat  from 
dropping  into  the  fire  and  making  a  smoke,  which  will  spoil 
the  broil. 

Upright  gridirons  are  the  best,  as  they  can  be  used  at  any 
fire  without  fear  of  smoke ;  and  the  gravy  is  preserved  in  the 
trough  under  them. 

N.B.  Broils  must  be  brought  to  table  as  hot  as  possible ; 
set  a  dish  to  heat  when  you  put  your  chops  on  the  gridiron, 
from  whence  to  the  mouth  their  progress  must  be  as  quick 
as  possible. 

When  the  fire  is  not  clear,  the  business  of  the  gridiron 
may  be  done  by  the  Dutch  oven  or  bonnet. 


CHAPTER  V. 

"» 

VEGETABLES. 

THERE  is  nothing  in  which  the  difference  between  an 
elegant  and  an  ordinary  table  is  more  seen  than  in  the  dressing 
of  vegetables,  more  especially  greens.  They  may  be  equally 
as  fine  at  first,  at  one  place  as  at  another ;  but  their  look  and 
taste  are  afterward  very  different,  entirely  from  the  careless 
way  in  which  they  have  been  cooked. 

They  are  in  greatest  perfection  when  in  greatest  plenty, 
i.  e.  when  in  full  season. 

By  season,  I  do  not  mean  those  early  days,  that  luxury  in 
the  buyers,  and  avarice  in  the  sellers,  force  the  various  vege- 


^84  VEGETABLES. 

tables ;  but  that  time  of  the  year  in  which  by  nature  and 
common  culture,  and  the  mere  operation  of  the  sun  and  cli- 
mate, they  are  in  most  plenty  and  perfection. 

Potatoes  and  pease  are  seldom  worth  eating  before  mids\im- 
iner ;  unripe  vegetables  are  as  insipid  and  unwholesome  as 
unripe  fruits. 

As  to  the  quality  of  vegetables,  the  middle  size  are  pre- 
ferred to  the  largest  or  the  smallest ;  they  are  more  tender, 
juicy,  and  full  of  flavour,  just  before  they  are  quite  full- 
grown.  Freshness  is  their  chief  value  and  excellence,  and  1 
should  as  soon  think  of  roasting  an  animal  alive,  as  of  boiling 
a  vegetable  after  it  is  dead. 

The  eye  easily  discovers  if  they  have  been  kept  too  long; 
they  soon  lose  their  beauty  in  all  respects. 

Roots,  greens,  salads,  &c.  and  the  various  productions  of 
the  garden,  when  first  gathered,  are  plump  and  firm,  and  have 
a  fragrant  freshness  no  art  can  give  them  again,  when  the} 
have  lost  it  by  long  keeping ;  though  it  will  refresh  them  a 
little  to  put  them  into  cold  spring  water  for  some  time  before 
they  are  dressed. 

To  boil  them  in  soft  water  will  preserve  the  colour  besk 
of  such  as  are  green ;  if  you  have  only  hard  water,  put  to  it 
a  tea-spoonful  of  carbonate  of  potash.* 

Take  care  to  wash  and  cleanse  them  thoroughly  from  dust, 
dirt,  and  insects  :  this  requires  great  attention.  Pick  off  all 
the  outside  leaves,  trim  them  nicely,  and,  if  not  quite  fresh 
gathered  and  have  become  flaccid,  it  is  absolutely  necessary 
to  restore  their  crispness  before  cooking  them,  or  they  will 
be  tough  and  unpleasant :  lay  them  in  a  pan  of  clean  water, 
with  a  handful  of  salt  in  it,  for  an  hour  before  you  dress  them. 

"  Most  vegetables  being  more  or  less  succulent,  their  full 
proportion  of  fluids  is  necessary  for  their  retaining  that  state- 
of  crispness  and  plumpness  which  they  have  when  growing. 
On  being  cut  or  gathered,  the  exhalation  from  their  surface 
continues,  while,  from  the  open  vessels  of  the  cut  surface, 
there  is  often  great  exudation  or  evaporation ;  and  thus  their 
natural  moisture  is  diminished,  the  tender  leaves  become 
flaccid,  and  the  thicker  masses  or  roots  lose  their  plumpness. 
This  is  not  only  less  pleasant  to  the  eye,  but  is  a  real  injury 
to  the  nutritious  powers  of  the  vegetable ;  for  in  this  flaccid 
and  shrivelled  state  its  fibres  are  less  easily  divided  in  chew- 
ing, and  the  water  which  exists  in  vegetable  substances,  in 
the  form  of  their  respective  natural  juices,  is  directly  nutri- 

*  Pe&rlash  is  a  sub-carbonate,  and  will  answer  the  purpose.  It  is  a  commou. 
artiste  in  the  kitchen  of  the  American  housekeeper.  A. 


VEGETABLES.  36 

tious.  The  first  care  in  the  preservation  of  succulent  vege- 
tables, therefore,  is  to  prevent  them  from  losing  their  natural 
moisture." — Suppl.  to  Edin.  Encyclop.  vol.  iv.  p.  335. 

They  should  always  be  boiled  in  a  sauce-pan  by  them-' 
selves,  and  have  plenty  of  water;  if  meat  is  boiled  with 
them  in  the  same  pot,  they  will. spoil  the  look  and  taste  of 
each  other. 

If  you  wish  to  have  vegetables  delicately  clean,  put  on 
your  pot,  make  it  boil,  put  a  little  salt  in  it,  and  skim  it  per- 
iectly  clean  before  you  put  in  the  greens,  &c. ;  which  should 
not  be  put  in  till  the  water  boils  briskly :  the  quicker  they 
boil,  the  greener  they  will  be.  When  the  vegetables  sink, 
they  are  generally  done  enough,  if  the  water  has  been  kept 
constantly  boiling.  Take  them  up  immediately,  or  they 
will  lose  their  colour  and  goodness.  Drain  the  water  from 
them  thoroughly  before  you  send  them  to  table. 

This  branch  of  cookery  requires  the  most  vigilant  attention 

If  vegetables  are  a  minute  or  two  too  long  over  the  fire, 
they  lose  all  their  beauty  and  flavour. 

If  not  thoroughly  boiled  tender,  they  are  tremendously  in- 
digestible, and  much  more  troublesome  during  their  residence 
in  the  stomach,  than  under-done  meats.* 

To  preserve  or  give  colour  in  cookery,  many  good  dishes 
are  spoiled;  but  the  rational  epicure  who  makes  nourish- 
ment the  main  end  of  eating,  will  be  content  to  sacrifice  the 
shadow  to  enjoy  the  substance.  Vide  06s.  to  No.  322. 

Once  for  all,  take  care  your  vegetables  are  fresh :  for  as 
ihe  fishmonger  often  suffers  for  the  sins  of  the  cook,  so  the 
cook  often  gets  undeservedly  blamed  instead  of  the  green- 
grocer. 

Vegetables,  in  this  metropolis,  are  often  kept  so  long,  thai 
no  art  can  make  them  either  look  or  eat  well. 

Strong-scented  vegetables  should  be  kept  apart ;  leeks,  or 
celery,  laid  among  cauliflowers,  &c.  will  quickly  spoil  them. 

"  Succulent  vegetables  are  best  preserved  in  a  cool,  shady, 
and  damp  place. 

"  Potatoes,  turnips,  carrots,  and  similar  roots,  intended  to 
be  stored  up,  should  never  be  cleaned  from  the  earth  adhe- 
ring to  them,  till  they  are  to  be  dressed. 

"  They  must  be  protected  from  the  action  of  the  air  and 

*  "  CAULIFLOWERS  and  other  vegetables  are  often  boiled  only  crisp  to  preserve 
their  beauty.  For  the  look  alone  they  had  better  not  be  boiled  at  all,  and  almost  as 
well  for  the  use,  as  in  this  crude  state  they  are  scarcely  digestible  by  the  strongest 
stomach.  On  the  other  hand,  when  over-boiled,  they  become  vapid,  and  in  a  state 
similar  to  decay,  in  which  they  afford  no  sweet  purifying  juices  to  the  body,  but  load 
it  with  a  mass  of  mere  feculent  matter."— Domestic  Management,  12mo.  1813. 

H 


86  FISH. 

frost,  by  laying  them  in  heaps,  burying  them  in  sand  or  earth. 
&c.,  or  covering  them  with  straw  or  mats. 

"  The  action  of  frost  destroys  the  life  of  the  vegetable,  and 
it  speedily  rots." — Suppl.  to  Edin.  Encyclop.  vol.  iv.  p.  335. 

MEM. — When  vegetables  are  quite  fresh  gathered,  they 
will  not  require  so  much  bo;ling,  by  at  least  a  third  of  the 
time,  as  when  they  have  been  gathered  the  usual  time  those 
are  that  are  brought  to  public  markets. 


CHAPTER  VL 

FISH. 

THIS  department  of  the  business  of  the  kitchen  requires 
considerable  experience,  and  depends  more  upon  practice 
than  any  other.  A  very  few  moments,  more  or  less,  will 
thoroughly  spoil  fish  ;*  which,  to  be  eaten  in  perfection,  must 
never  be  put  on  the  table  till  the  soup  is  taken  off. 

So  many  circumstances  operate  on  this  occasion,  that  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  write  general  rules. 

There  are  decidedly  different  opinions,  whether  fish  should 
be  put  into  cold,  tepid,  or  boiling  water. 

We  believe,  for  some  of  the  fame  the  Dutch  cooks  have 
acquired,  they  are  a  little  indebted  to  their  situation  affording 
them  a  plentiful  supply  of  fresh  fish  for  little  more  than  the 
trouble  of  catching  it ;  and  that  the  superior  excellence  of 
the  fish  in  Holland,  is  because  none  are  used,  unless  they 
are  brought  alive  into  the  kitchen  (mackerel  excepted,  which 
die  the  moment  they  are  taken  out  of  the  water).  The 
Dutch  are  as  nice  about  this  as  Seneca  says  the  Romans! 
were ;  who,  complaining  of  the  luxury  of  the  times,  says, 

*  When  the  cook  has  large  dinners  to  prepare,  and  the  time  of  serving  uncertain, 
she  will  get  more  credit  by  FRIED  (see  No.  145),  or  stewed  (see  No.  164),  than  by 
BOILED  fish.  It  is  also  cheaper,  and  much  sooner  carved  (see  No.  145). 

Mr.  Ude,  page  338  of  his  cookery,  advises,  "  If  you  are  obliged  to  wait  after  the 
fish  is  done,  do  not  let  it  remain  in  the  water,  but  keep  the  water  boiling,  and  put 
the  fish  over  it,  and  cover  it  with  a  damp  cloth ;  when  the  dinner  is  called  for,  dip 
the  fish  again  in  the  water,  and  serve  it  up." 

The  only  circumstantial  instructions  yet  printed  for  FRYING  FISH,  the  reader  will 
find  in  No.  145 ;  if  this  be  carefully  and  nicely  attended  to,  you  will  have  delicious 
food. 

t  They  had  salt-water  preserves  for  feeding  different  kinds  of  sea-fish ;  those  in 
the  ponds  of  Lucullus,  at  his  death,  sold  for  25,000/.  sterling.  ,  The  prolific  power  of 
fish  is  wonderful :  the  following  calculations  are  from  Petit,  Block,  and  Leuwen- 
hneck:- 


FISH.  8? 

M  They  are  come  to  that  daintiness,  that  they  will  not  eat  a 
fish,  unless  upon  the  same  day  that  it  is  taken,  that  it  may 
taste  of  the  sea,  as  they  express  it." 

On  the  Dutch  flat  coast,  the  fish  are  taken  with  nets :  on 
our  rocky  coast,  they  are  mostly  caught  by  bait  and  hook, 
which  instantly  kills  them.  Fish  are  brought  alive  by  land 
to  the  Dutch  markets,  in  water  casks  with  air-holes  in  the 
top.  Salmon,  and  other  fish,  are  thus  preserved  in  rivers,  in 
a  well-hole  in  the  fishing-boat. 

All  kinds  of  fish  are  best  some  time  before  they  begin  to 
spawn ;  and  are  unfit  for  food  for  some  time  after  they  have 
spawned. 

Fish,  like  animals,  are  fittest  for  the  table  when  they  are 
just  full  grown ;  and  what  has  been  said  in  Chapter  V.  re- 
specting vegetables,  applies  equally  well  to  fish. 

The  most  convenient  utensil  to  boil  fish  in,  is  a  turbot- 
kettle.  This  should  be  24  inches  long,  22  wide,  and  9  deep. 
It  is  an  excellent  vessel  to  boil  a  ham  in,  &c.  &c. 

The  good  folks  of  this  metropolis  are  so  often  disappointed 
by  having  fish  which  has  been  kept  too  long,  that  they  are 
apt  to  run  into  the  other  extreme,  and  suppose  that  fish  will 
not  dress  well  unless  it  is  absolutely  alive.  This  is  true  of 
lobsters,  &c.  (No.  176),  and  may  be  of  fresh-water  fish,  but 
certainly  not  of  some  sea-fish. 

Several  respectable  fishmongers  and  experienced  cooks 
have  assured  the  editor,  that  they  are  often  in  danger  of 
losing  their  credit  by  fish  too  fresh,  and  especially  turbot  and 
cod,  which,  like  meat,  require  a  certain  time  before  they  are 
in  the  best  condition  to  be  dressed.  They  recommend  them 
to  be  put  into  cold  water,  salted  in  proportion  of  about  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  to  a  gallon  of  water.  Sea-water 
is  best  to  boil  sea-fish  in.  It  not  only  saves  the  expense  of 
salt,  but  the  flavour  is  better.  Let  them  boil  slowly  till  done : 
the  sign  of  which  is,  that  the  skin  of  the  fish  rises  up,  and 
the  eyes  turn  white. 

It  is  the  business  of  the  fishmonger  to  clean  them,  &c.  but 
the  careful  cook  will  always  wash  them  again. 

Garnish  with  slices  of  lemon,  finely  scraped  horseradish, 
fried  oysters  (No.  183),  smelts  (No.  173),  whitings  (No.  153), 
or  strips  of  soles,  as  directed  in  No.  145. 


A  salmon  of  20  pounds  weight  contained 

A  middling-sized  pike 148,000 

A  mackerel 546.681 

A  cod 9,344,000 

See  Cours  Gastronomiqucs,  18mo.  1806,  p.  341, 


88  FISH   SAUCES. 

The  liver,  roe,  and  chitterlings  should  be  placed  so  that 
the  carver  may  observe  them,  and  invite  the  guests  to  par- 
take of  them. 

N.B.  FISH,  like  meat,  requires  more  cooking  in  cold  than 
in  warm  weather.  If  it  becomes  FROZEN,*  it  must  be  thawed 
by  the  means  we  have  directed  for  meat,  in  the  3d  chapter 
of  the  Rudiments  of  Cookery. 

[Fish  are  plenty  and  good,  and  in  great  variety,  in  all  the 
towns  and  cities  on  the  extensive  coast  of  the  United  States. 
Some  of  the  interior  towns  are  also  supplied  with  fish  pecu- 
liar to  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  this  country.  A.] 

FISH   SAUCES. 

The  melted  butter  (No.  256)  for  fish,  should  be  thick  enough 
to  adhere  to  the  fish,  and,  therefore,  must  be  of  the  thickness 
of  light  batter,  as  it  is  to  be  diluted  with  essence  of  anchovy 
(No.  433),  soy  (No.  436),  mushroom  catchup  (No.  439). 
Cayenne  (No.  404),  or  Chili  vinegar  (No.  405),  lemons  or 
lemon-juice,  or  artificial  lemon-juice,  (see  No.  407*),  &c. 
which  are  expected  at  all  well-served  tables. 

Cooks,  who  are  jealous  of  the  reputation  of  their  taste, 
and  housekeepers  who  value  their  health,  will  prepare  these 
articles  at  home  :  there  are  quite  as  many  reasons  why  they 
should,  as  there  are  for  the  preference  usually  given  to  home- 
baked  bread  and  home-brewed  beer,  &c. 

N.B.  The  liver  of  the  fish  pounded  and  mixed  with  but- 
ter, with  a  little  lemon-juice,  &c.  is  an  elegant  and  inoffensive 
relish  to  fish  (see  No.  288).  Mushroom  sauce  extempore 
(No.  307),  or  the  soup  of  mock  turtle  (No.  247),  will  make 
an  excellent  fish  sauce. 

On  the  comparatively  nutritive  qualities  of  fish,  see  N.R. 
to  No.  181. 

*  Fish  are  very  frequently  sent  home  frozen  by  the  fishmonger,  to  whom  an  ice 
Iiou.se  is  now  as  necessary  an  appendage  (to  preserve  fish,)  as  it  is  to  a  confectioner 


BROTHS   AND   SOUPS,  89 


CHAPTER  VII. 

BROTHS    AND   SOUPS. 

THE  cook  must  pay  continual  attention  to  the  condition  of 
her  stew-pans*  and  soup-kettles,  &c.  which  should  be  exa- 
mined every  time  they  are  used.  The  prudent  housewife 
will  carefully  examine  the  condition  of  them  herself  at  least 
once  a  month.  Their  covers  also  must  be  kept  perfectly 
clean  and  well  tinned,  and  the  stew-pans  not  only  on  the 
inside,  but  about  a  couple  of  inches  on  the  outside :  many 
mischiefs  arise  from  their  getting  out  of  repair;  and  if  not 
kept  nicely  tinned,  all  your  good  work  will  be  in  vain ;  the 
broths  and  soups  will  look  green  and  dirty,  taste  bitter  and 
poisonous,  and  will  be  spoiled  both  for  the  eye  and  palate, 
and  your  credit  will  be  lost. 

The  health,  and  even  life  of  the  family,  depends  upon  this, 
and  the  cook  may  be  sure  her  employers  had  rather  pay  the 
tinman's  bill  than  the  doctor's ;  therefore,  attention  to  this 
cannot  fail  to  engage  the  regard  of  the  mistress,  between 
whom  and  the  cook  it  will  be  my  utmost  endeavour  to  pro- 
mote perfect  harmony. 

If  a  servant  has  the  misfortune  to  scorch  or  blister  the  tin- 
ning of  her  pan,j  which  will  happen  sometimes  to  the  most 
careful  cook,  I  advise  her,  by  all  means,  immediately  to" ac- 
quaint her  employers,  who  will  thank  her  for  candidly  men- 
tioning an  accident ;  and  censure  her  deservedly  if  she  con- 
ceal it. 

Take  care  to  be  properly  provided  with  sieves  and  tammy 
cloths,  spoons  and  ladles.  Make  it  a  rule  without  an  exception, 
never  to  use  them  till  they  are  well  cleaned  and  thoroughly 
dried,  nor  any  stewpans,  &c.  without  first  washing  them  out 
with  boiling  water,  and  rubbing  them  well  with  a  dry  cloth 
and  a  little  bran,  to  clean  them  from  grease,  sand,  &c.,  or 
any  bad  smell  they  may  have  got  since  they  were  last  used : 
never  neglect  this. 

Though  we  do  not  suppose  our  cook  to  be  such  a  naughty 

*  We  prefer  the  form  of  a  stew-pan  to  the  soup-pot ;  the  former  is  more  convenient 
to  skim :  the  most  useful  size  is  12  i  nches  diameter  by  6  inches  deep :  this  we  would 
have  of  silver,  or  iron,  or  copper,  lined  (not  plated)  with  silver. 

t  This  may  be  always  avoided  by  browning  your  meat  in  the  frying-pan ;  it  is  thfi 
browning  of  the  meat  that  destroys  the  stew-pan. 

H  2 


90  BROTHS  AND  SOUPS. 

slut  as  to  wilfully  neglect  her  broth-pots,  &c.,  yet  we  may 
recommend  her  to  wash  them  immediately,  and  take  care 
they  are  thoroughly  dried  at  the  fire,  before  they  are  put  by, 
and  to  keep  them  in  a  dry  place,  for  damp  will  rust  and  de- 
stroy them  very  soon :  attend  to  this  the  first  moment  you 
can  spare  after  the  dinner  is  sent  up. 

Never  put  by  any  soup,  gravy,  &c.  in  metal  utensils ;  in 
which  never  keep  any  thing  longer  than  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary for  the  purposes  of  cookery ;  the  acid,  vegetables,  fat, 
&c.  employed  in  making  soups,  &c.  are  capable  of  dissolving 
such  utensils ;  therefore  stone  or  earthen  vessels  should  be 
used  for  this  purpose. 

Stew-pans,  soup-pots,  and  preserving  pans,  with  thick  and 
round  bottoms  (such  as  sauce-pans  are  made  with),  will  wear 
twice  as  long,  and  are  cleaned  with  half  the  trouble,  as  those 
whose  sides  are  soldered  to  the  bottom,  of  which  sand  and 
grease  get  into  the  joined  part,  and  cookeys  say  that  it  is 
next  to  an  impossibility  to  dislodge  it,  even  if  their  nails  are 
as  long  as  Nebuchadnezzar's.  The  Editor  claims  the  credit 
of  having  first  suggested  the  importance  of  this  construction 
of  these  utensils. 

Take  care  that  the  lids  fit  as  close  as  possible,  that  the 
broth,  soup,  and  sauces,  &c.  may  not  waste  by  evaporation. 
They  are  good  for  nothing,  unless  they  fit  tight  enough  to 
keep  the  steam  in  and  the  smoke  out. 

Stew-pans  and  sauce-pans  should  be  always  bright  on  the 
upper  rim,  where  the  fire  does  not  burn  them ;  but  to  scour 
them  all  over  is  not  only  giving  the  cook  needless  trouble, 
but  wearing  out  the  vessels.  See  observations  on  sauce- 
pans in  Chapter  I. 

Cultivate  habits  of  regularity  and  cleanliness,  &c.  in  all 
your  business,  which  you  will  then  get  through  easily  and 
comfortably.  I  do  not  mean  the  restless  spirit  of  Molidusta* 
"  the  Tidy  One,"  who  is  anon,  anon,  Sir,  frisking  about  in  a 
whirlpool  of  bustle  and  confusion,  and  is  always  dirty,  under 
pretence  of  being  always  cleaning. 

Lean,  juicy  beef,  mutton,  or  veal,  form  the  basis  of  broth; 
procure  those  pieces  which  afford  the  richest  succulence,  and 
as  fresh  killed  as  possible.* 

Stale  meat  will  make  broth  grouty  and  bad  tasted,  and  fat 
meat  is  wasted.  This  only  applies  to  those  broths  which  are 
required  to  be  perfectly  clear :  we  shall  show  hereafter  (in 

*  In  general,  it  has  been  considered  the  best  economy  to  use  the  cheapest  and  most 
inferior  meats  for  soup,  &c.,  and  to  boil  it  down  till  it  is  entirely  destroyed,  and 
hardly  worth  putting  into  the  hog- tub.  This  is  a  false  frugality:  buy  good  pieces  ot; 
meat,  and  only  stew  them  till  they  are  done  enough  to  be  eaten. 


BROTHS    AND   SOUPS.  91 

No.  229),  that  fat  and  clarified  drippings  may  be  so  combined 
with  vegetable  mucilage,  as  to  afford,  at  the  small  cost  of  one 
penny  per  quart,  a  nourishing  and  palatable  soup,  fully  ade- 
quate to  satisfy  appetite  and  support  strength :  this  will  open 
a  new  source  to  those  benevolent  housekeepers,  who  are 
disposed  to  relieve  the  poor,  will  show  the  industrious  classes 
how  much  they  have  it  in  their  power  to  assist  themselves, 
and  rescue  them  from  being  objects  of  charity  dependent  on 
the  precarious  bounty  of  others,  by  teaching  them  how  they 
may  obtain  a  cheap,  abundant,  salubrious,  and  agreeable  ali- 
ment for  themselves  and  families. 

This  soup  has  the  advantage  of  being  very  easily  and  very 
soon  made,  with  no  more  fuel  than  is  necessary  to  warm  a 
room.  Those  who  have  not  tasted  it,  cannot  imagine  what 
a  salubrious,  savoury,  and  satisfying  meal  is  produced  by  the 
judicious  combination  of  cheap  homely  ingredients. 

Scotch  barley  broth  (No.  204)  will  furnish  a  good  dinner 
of  soup  and  meat  for  fivepence  per  head,  pease  soup  (No. 
221)  will  cost  only  sixpence  per  quart,  ox-tail  soup  (No.  240) 
or  the  same  portable  soup  (No.  252),  for  fivepence  per  quart, 
and  (No.  224)  an  excellent  gravy  soup  for  fourpence  half- 
penny per  quart,  duck-giblet  soup  (No.  244)  for  three- 
pence per  quart,  and  fowls'  head  soup  in  the  same  manner 
for  still  less  (No.  239),  will  give  you  a  good  and  plentiful 
dinner  for  six  people  for  two  shillings  and  twopence.  See 
also  shin  of  beef  stewed  (No.  493),  and  a-la-mode  beef  (No. 
502). 

BROTH  HERBS,  SOUP  ROOTS,  AND  SEASONINGS. 


Scotch  barley  (No.  204), 

Pearl  barley. 

Flour. 

OATMEAL  (No.  572). 

Bread. 

Raspings. 

Pease  (No.  218). 

Beans. 

Rice  (No.  321*). 

Vermicelli. 

Macaroni  (No.  513). 


Isinglass. 

Potato  mucilage  (No.  448). 

Mushrooms*  (No.  439). 

Champignons. 

Parsnips  (No.  213). 

Carrots  (No.  212). 

Beet-roots. 

Turnips  (No.  208). 

Garlic. 

Shallots,  (No.  402.) 

Onions.f 


*  MUSHROOM  CATCHUP,  made  as  No.  439,  or  No  440,  will  answer  all  the  purposes 
of  mushrooms  in  soup  or  sauce,  and  no  store-room  should  be  without  a  stock  of  it. 
t  All  cooks  agree  in  this  opinion, 

JVo  savoury  dish,  without  an  ONION. 
Sliced  onions  frie^  (see  No.  299.  and  note  under  No.  517),  with  some  butter  and 


BROTHS  AND  SOUPS. 


Leeks. 

Cucumber.* 

Celery  (No.  214). 

CELERY  SEED.| 

Cress-seed,f  (No.  397). 

Parsley,j  (N.B.  to  No.  261.) 

Common  thyme.J 

Lemon  thyme.  J 

Orange  thyme.| 

Knotted  marjorumj  (No.  417) 


Mint  (No.  398). 
Winter  savoury,  t 
Sweet  basil!  (No.  397). 
Bay  leaves. 
Tomata. 


Tarragon  (No.  396). 
Chervil. 

Burnet  (No.  399). 
ALLSPICE^  (No.  412). 
Cinnamon^  (No.  416*)- 
Ginger§  (No.  411). 
Nutmeg.  $ 
Clove  (No.  414). 
Mace. 

Black  pepper. 

Lemon-peel  (No.  407  &  408.) 
White  pepper. 
Lemon-juice.  || 
Seville  orange-juice.])* 
Essence  of  anchovy  (No. 
433). 


flour,  til!  they  are  browned  (and  rubbed  through  a  sieve),  are  excellent  to  heighten 
the  colour  and  flavour  of  brown  soups  and  sauces,  and  form  the  basis  of  most  of  the 
relishes  furnished  by  the  "Restaurateurs" — as  we  guess  from  the  odour  which 
ascends  from  their  kitchens,  and  salutes  our  olfactory  nerves  "  en  passant.'1'' 

The  older  and  drier  the  onion,  the  stronger  its  flavour ;  and  the  cook  will  regulate 
the  quantity  she  uses  accordingly. 

*  Burnet  has  exactly  the  same  flavour  as  cucumber.  See  Burnet  vinegar 
(No.  399). 

f  The  concentration  of  flavour  in  CELKRV  and  CRESS  SE«D  is  such,  that  half  a 
drachm  of  it  (finely  pounded),  or  double  the  quantity  if  not  ground  or  pounded, 
costing  only  one-third  of  a  farthing,  will  impregnate  half  a  gallon  of  soup  with 
almost  as  much  relish  as  two  or  three  heads  of  the  fresh  vegetable,  weighing 
seven  ounces,  and  costing  twopence.  This  valuable  acquisition  to  the  coup-pot 
deserves  to  be  universally  known.  See  also  No.  409,  essence  of  CELERY.  This  is 
the  most  frugal  relish  we  have  to  introduce  to  the  economist :  but  that  our  judg- 
ment in  palates  may  not  be  called  in  question  by  our  fellow-mortals,  who,  as  the 
Craniologists  say,  happen  to  have  the  organ  of  taste  stronger  than  the  organ  of  ac- 
cumulativeness,  we  must  confess,  that,  with  the  flavour  it  does  not  impart  the  deli- 
cate sweetness,  &c.  of  the  fresh  vegetable ;  and  when  used,  a  bit  of  sugar  should 
accompany  it. 

I  See  No.  419,  No.  420,  and  No.  459.    Fresh  green  BASIL  is  seldom  to  be  procured. 
When  dried,  much  of  its  fine  flavour  is  lost,  which  is  fully  extracted  by  pouring 
wine  on  the  fresh  leaves  (see  No.  397). 

To  procure  and  preserve  the  flavour  of  SWEET  AND  SAVOURY  HERBS,  celery,  &c. 
these  must  be  dried,  &c.  at  home  (see  No.  417*  and  No.  461). 

$  See  No.  421  and  No.  457.  Sir  Hans  Sloane,  in  the  Phil.  Trans.  Abr.  vol.  xi.  p. 
667,  says,  "  Pimento,  the  spice  of  Jamaica,  or  ALLSPICE,  so  called,  from  having  a 
flavour  composed  as  it  were  of  cloves,  cinnamon,  nutmegs,  and  pepper,  may  de- 
servedly be  counted  the  best  and  most  temperate,  miid,  and  innocent  of  common 
spices,  almost  all  of  which  it  far  surpasses,  by  promoting  the  digestion  of  meat,  and 
moderately  heating  and  strengthening  the  stomach,  and  doing  those  friendly  offices 
to  the  bowels,  we  generally  expect  from  spices."  We  have  always  been  of  the 
same  opinion  as  Sir  Hans,  and  believe  the  only  reason  why  it  is  the  least  esteemed 
spice  is,  because  it  is  the  cheapest.  "  What  folks  get  easy  they  never  enjoy." 

II  If  you  have  not  fresh  oranse  or  lemon-juice,  or  Coxxvell's  crystallized  lemou 
acid,  the  artificial  lemon  juice  (No.  407)  is  a  good  substitute  for  it. 

tT  The  juice  of  the  SEVILLE  ORANGE  is  to  be  preferred  to  that  of  the  LKMON,  the 
flavour  is  finer,  and  the  acid  milder 


BROTHS  AND  "SOUPS.  93 

The  above  materials,  wine,  and  mushroom  catchup  (No. 
i39),  combined  in  various  proportions,  will  make  an  endless 
variety*  of  excellent  broths  and  soups,  quite  as  pleasant  to 
the  palate,  and  as  useful  and  agreeable  to  the  stomach,  as 
consuming  pheasants  and  partridges,  and  the  long  list  of 
inflammatory,  piquante,  and  rare  and  costly  articles,  recom- 
mended by  former  cookery-book  makers,  whose  elaborately 
compounded  soups  are  like  their  made  dishes ;  in  which, 
though  variety  is  aimed  at,  every  thing  has  the  same  taste, 
and  nothing  its  own. 

The  general  fault  of  our  soups  seems  to  be  the  employ- 
ment of  an  excess  of  spice,  and  too  small  a  portion  of  roots 
and  herbs. | 

Besides  the  ingredients  I  have  enumerated,  many  culinary 
scribes  indiscriminately  cram  into  almost  every  dish  (in  such 
inordinate  quantities,  one  would  suppose  they  were  working 
for  the  asbestos  palate  of  an  Indian  fire-eater)  anchovies, 
garlic, J  bay-leaves,  and  that  hot,  fiery  spice,  Cayenne^  pepper; 
this,  which  the  French  call  (not  undeservedly)  piment  enragi* 
(No.  404),  has,  somehow  or  other,  unaccountably  acquired  a 
character  for  being  very  wholesome;  while  the  milder 
peppers  and  spices  are  cried  down,  as  destroying  the  sensi- 
bility of  the  palate  and  stomach,  &c.,  and  being  the  source 
of  a  thousand  miscjiiefs.  We  should  just  as  soon  recommend 
alcohol  as  being"  less  intoxicating  than  wine. 

The  best  thing  that  has  been  said  in  praise  of  peppers  is, 
"  that  with  all  kinds  of  vegetables,  as  also  with  soups  (espe- 
cially vegetable  soups)  and  fish,  either  black  or  Cayenne 
pepper  may  be  taken  freely :  they  are  the  most  useful  stimu- 
lants to  old  stomachs,  and  often  supersede  the  cravings  for 

*  The  erudite  editor  of  the  "  Mmanach  des  Gourmands,"  vol.  ii.  p.  30,  tells  us, 
that  ten  folio  volumes  would  not  contain  the  receipts  of  all  the  soups  that  have  been 
invented  in  that  grand  school  of  good  eating, — tlie  Parisian  kitchen. 

t  "  Point  de  Ligum.es,  -point  de  Cuisiniere,''  is  a  favourite  culinary  adage  of  the 
French  kitchen,  and  deserves  to  be  so:  a  better  soup  may  be  made  with  a  couple  of 
pounds  of  meat  and  plenty  of  vegetables,  than  our  common  cooks  will  make  you 
with  four  times  that  quantity  of  meat ;  all  for  want  of  knowing  the  uses  of  soup 
roots,  and  sweet  and  savoury  herbs. 

t  Many  a  good  dish  is  spoiled,  by  the  cook  not  knowing  the  proper  use  of  this, 
which  is  to  give  a  flavour,  and  not  to  be  predominant  over  the  other  ingredients :  a 
morsel  mashed  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  and  stirred  in,  is  enough.  See  No.  402. 

§  Foreigners  have  strange  notions  of  English  taste,  on  which  one  of  their  culinary 
professors  has  made  the  following  comment:  "  the  organ  of  taste  in  these  ISLANDERS 
is  very  different  from  our  delicate  palates;  and  sauce  that  would  excoriate  the 
palate  of  a  Frenchman,  would  be  hardly  piquante  enough  to  make  any  impression 
on  that  of  an  Englishman ;  thus  they  prefer  port  to  claret,"  &c.  As  far  as  concerns 
our  drinking,  we  wish  there  was  not  quite  so  much  truth  in  Monsieur's  remarks 
but  the  characteristic  of  the  French  and  English  kitchen  is  sauce  without  substance, 
and  substance  without  sauce. 

To  make  CAYENNE  of  English  chillies,  of  infinitely  finer  flavour  than  the  Indian, 
see  No.  404. 


94  BKOTHS   AND  SOUPS. 

strong  drinks ;  or  diminish  the  quantity  otherwise  required.tr 
See  Sir  A.  CARLISLE  on  Old  Age,  London,  1817.  A  certain 
portion  of  condiment  is  occasionally  serviceable  to  excite 
and  keep  up  the  languid  action  of  feeble  and  advanced  life : 
we  must  increase  the  stimulus  of  our  aliment  as  the  inirrita- 
bility  of  our  system  increases.  We  leave  those  who  love 
these  things  to  use  them  as  they  like ;  their  flavours  can  be 
very  extemporaneously  produced  by  chilly-juice,  or  essence 
of  Cayenne  (No.  405),  eshallot  wine  (No.  402),  and  essence 
of  anchovy  (No.  433). 

There  is  no  French  dinner  without  soup,  which  is  regarded 
as  an  indispensable  overture;  it  is  commonly  followed  by 
"  le  coup  cFApres"  a  glass  of  pure  wine,  which  they  consider 
so  wholesome  after  soup,  that  their  proverb  says,  the  phy- 
sician thereby  loses  a  fee.  Whether  the  glass  of  wine  be  so 
much  more  advantageous  for  the  patient  than  it  is  for  his 
doctor,  we  know  not,  but  believe  it  an  excellent  plan  to 
begin  the  banquet  with  a  basin  of  good  soup,  which,  by 
moderating  the  appetite  for  solid  animal  food,  is  certainly  a 
salutiferous  custom.  Between  the  roasts  and  the  entremets 
they  introduce  "le  coup  du  Milieu"  or  a  small  glass  of  Ja- 
•maica  rum,  or  essence  of  punch  (see  No.  471),  or  CURACAO 
(No.  474). 

The  introduction  of  liqueurs  is  by  no  means  a  modern 
custom :  our  ancestors  were  very  fond  of  a  highly  spiced 
stimulus  of  this  sort,  commonly  called  Ipocrasse,  which 
generally  made  a  part  of  the  last  course,  or  was  taken  imme- 
diately after  dinner. 

The  crafte  to  make  ypocras* 

"  Take  a  quarte  of  red  wyne,  an  ounce  of  synamon,  and 
halfe  an  ounce  of  gynger ;  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  greynes 
(probably  of  paradise")  and  long  pepper,  and  halfe  a  pounde 
of  sugar ;  and  brose  (bruise)  all  this  (not  too  small),  and  then 
put  them  in  a  bage  (bag)  of  wullen  clothe,  made,  therefore, 
with  the  wynee ;  and  lete  it  hange  over  a  vessel,  till 
the  wynee  be  run  thorowe." — An  extract  from  Arnold's 
Chronicle. 

It  is  a  custom  which  almost  universally  prevails  in  the 
northern  parts  of  Europe,  to  present  a  dram  or  glass  of 
liqueur,  before  sitting  down  to  dinner:  this  answers  the 
double  purpose  of  a  whet  to  the  appetite,  and  an  announce- 
ment that  dinner  is  on  the  point  of  being  served  up.  Along 
with  the  dram,  are  presented  on  a  waiter,  little  square  pieces 


BROTHS   AND   SOUPS.  95 

of  cheese,  slices  of  cold  tongue,  dried  tongue,  and  dried 
toast,  accompanied  with  fresh  caviar. 

We  again  caution  the  cook  to  avoid  over-seasoning,  espe- 
cially with  predominant  flavours,  which,  however  agreeable 
they  may  be  to  some,  are  extremely  disagreeable  to  others. 
See  page  50. 

Zest  (No.  255),  soy  (No.  436),  cavice,  coratch,  anchovy 
(No.  433),  curry  powder  (No.  455),  savoury  ragofit  powder 
(No.  457),  soup  herb  powder  (No.  459  and  460),  browning 
(No.  322),  catchups  (No.  432),  pickle  liquor,  beer,  wine,  and 
sweet  herbs,  and  savoury  spice  (No.  460),  are  very  convenient 
auxiliaries  to  finish  soups,  &c. 

The  proportion  of  wine  (formerly  sack,  then  claret,  now 
Madeira  or  port)  should  not  exceed  a  large  wine-glassful  to 
a  quart  of  soup.  This  is  as  much  as  can  be  admitted,  without 
the  vinous  flavour  becoming  remarkably  predominant ;  though 
not  only  much  larger  quantities  of  wine  (of  which  claret  is 
incomparably  the  best,  because  it  contains  less  spirit  and 
more  flavour,  and  English  palates  are  less  acquainted  with 
it),  but  even  veritable  eau  de  vie  is  ordered  in  many  books, 
and  used  by  many  (especially  tavern  cooks).  So  much  are 
their  soups  overloaded  with  relish,  that  if  you  will  eat  enough 
of  them  they  will  certainly  make  you  drunk,  if  they  don't 
make  you  sick :  all  this  frequently  arises  from  an  old  cook 
measuring  the  excitability  of  the  eater's  palates  by  his  own, 
which  may  be  so  blunted  by  incessant  tasting,  that  to  awaken 
it,  requires  wine  instead  of  water,  and  Cayenne  and  garlic 
for  black  pepper  and  onion. 

Old  cooks  are  as  fond  of  spice,  as  children  are  of  sugar, 
and  season  soup,  which  is  intended  to  constitute  a  principal 
part  of  a  meal,  as  highly  as  sauce,  of  which  only  a  spoonful 
may  be  relish  enough  for  a  plate  of  insipid  viands.  (See 
obs.  to  No.  355.)  However,  we  fancy  these  large  quantities 
of  wine,  &c.  are  oftener  ordered  in  cookery  books  than  used 
in  the  kitchen:  practical  cooks  have  the  health  of  their 
employers  too  much  at  heart,  and  love  "sauce  d  la  langue"  too 
well  to  overwine  their  soup,  &c. 

Truffles  and  morels*  are  also  set  down  as  a  part  of  most 
receipts.  These,  in  their  green  state,  have  a  very  rich  high 
flavour,  and  are  delicious  additions  to  some  dishes,  or  sent 
up  as  a  stew  by  themselves  when  they  are  fresh  and  fine ; 
but  in  this  state  they  are  not  served  up  half  a  dozen  times 
in  a  year  at  the  first  tables  in  the  kingdom :  when  dried 
they  become  mere  "  chips  in  pottage,"  and  serve  only  to 

*  We  tried  to  make  catchup  of  these  by  treating  them  like  mushrooms  (No.  439) , 
but  did  not  succeed. 


96  BROTHS   AND   SOUPS. 

soak  up  good  gravy,  from  which  they  take  more  taste  than 
they  give. 

The  art  of  composing  a  rich  soup  is  so  to  proportion  the 
several  ingredients  one  to  another,  that  no  particular  taste 
be  stronger  than  the  rest,  but  to  produce  such  a  fine  harmo- 
nious relish  that  the  whole  is  delightful  This  requires  that 
judicious  combination  of  the  materials  which  constitutes  the 
"  chef  d'ceuvre"  of  culinary  science. 

In  the  first  place,  take  care  that  the  roots  and  herbs  be 
perfectly  well  cleaned ;  proportion  the  water  to  the  quantity 
of  meat  and  other  ingredients,  generally  a  pound  of  meat 
to  a  quart  of  water  for  soups,  and  double  that  quantity 
for  gravies.  If  they  stew  gently,  little  more  water  need 
be  put  in  at  first  than  is  expected  at  the  end ;  for  when  the 
pot  is  covered  quite  close,  and  the  fire  gentle,  very  little  is 
wasted. 

Gentle  stewing  is  incomparably  the  best ;  the  meat  is  more 
tender,  and  the  soup  better  flavoured. 

It  is  of  the  first  importance  that  the  cover  of  a  soup-kettle 
should  fit  very  close,  or  the  broth  will  evaporate  before  you 
are  aware  of  it.  The  most  essential  parts  are  soon  evapo- 
rated by  quick  boiling,  without  any  benefit,  except  to  fatten 
the  fortunate  cook  who  inhales  them.  An  evident  proof 
that  these  exhalations*  possess  the  most  restorative  qualities 
is,  that  THE  COOK,  who  is  in  general  the  least  eater,  is,  as 
generally,  the  fattest  person  in  the  family,  from  continually 
being  surrounded  by  the  quintessence  of  all  the  food 
she  dresses;  whereof  she  sends  to  HER  MASTER  only  the 
fibres  and  calcinations,  who  is  consequently  thin,  gouty,  and 
the  victim  of  diseases  arising  from  insufficient  nourishment. 

It  is  not  only  the  fibres  of  the  meat  which  nourish  us,  but 
the  juices  they  contain,  and  these  are  not  only  extracted  but 
exhaled,  if  it  be  boiled  fast  in  an  open  vessel.  A  succulent 
soup  can  never  be  made  but  in  a  well-closed  vessel,  which 
preserves  the  nutritive  parts  by  preventing  their  dissipation. 
This  is  a  fact  of  which  every  intelligent  person  will  soon 
perceive  the  importance. 

Place  your  soup-pot  over  a  moderate  fire,  which  will  make 

*  «  A  poor  man,  being  very  hungry,  staid  so  long  in  a  cook's  shop,  who  was  dishing 
up  meat,  that  his  stomach  was  satisfied  with  only  the  smell  thereof.  The  choleric 
cook  demanded  of  him  to  pay  for  his  breakfast ;  the  poor  man  denied  having  had 
any,  and  the  controversy  was  referred  to  the  deciding  of  the  next  man  that  should 
pass  by,  who  chanced  to  be  the  most  notorious  idiot  in  the  whole  city :  he,  on  the 
relation  of  the  matter,  determined  that  the  poor  man's  money  should  be  put  between 
two  empty  dishes,  and  the  cook  should  be  recompensed  with  the  jingling  of  the  poor 
man's  money,  as  he  was  satisfied  with  the  smell  of  the  cook's  meat."  This  is 
affirmed  by  credible  writers  as  no  fable,  but  an  undoubted  truth.— FULLER'S  Holy 
State,  lib.  iii.  c.  12,  p.  20. 


BROTHS    A^J>    SOUPS.  97 


the  water  hot  without  causing  it  to  boil  for  at  least  half  an 
hour  ;  if  the  water  boils  immediately,  it  will  not  penetrate 
the  meat,  and  cleanse  it  from  the  clotted  blood,  and  other 
matters  which  ought  to  go  off  in  scum  ;  the  meat  will  be 
hardened  all  over  by  violent  heat  ;  will  shrink  up  as  if  it  was 
Scorched,  and  give  hardly  any  gravy  :  on  the  contrary,  by 
keeping  the  water  a  certain  time  heating  without  boiling,  the 
meat  swells,  becomes  tender,  its  fibres  are  dilated,  and  it 
yields  a  quantity  of  scum,  which  must  be  taken  off  as  soon 
as  it  appears. 

It  is  not  till  after  a  good  half  hour's  hot  infusion  that  we 
may  mend  the  fire,  and  make  the  pot  boil  :  still  continue  to 
remove  the  scum;  and  when  no  more  appears,  put  in  the 
vegetables,  &c.  and  a  little  salt.  These  will  cause  more 
scum  to  rise,  which  must  be  taken  off  immediately  ;  then 
cover  the  pot  very  closely,  and  place  it  at  a  proper  distance 
from  the  fire,  where  it  will  boil  very  gently,  and  equally,  anO 
by  no  means  fast. 

By  quick  and  strong  boiling  the  volatile  and  finest  parts  of 
the  ingredients  are  evaporated,  and  fly  off  with  the  steam. 
and  the  coarser  parts  are  rendered  soluble  ;  so  you  lose  the 
good,  and  get  the  bad. 

Soups  will  generally  take  from  three  to  six  hours. 

Prepare  your  broths  and  soups  the  evening  before  you 
•\vant  them.  This  will  give  you  more  time  to  attend  to  the 
rest  of  your  dinner  the  next  day  ;  and  when  the  soup  is  cold, 
the  fat  may  be  much  more  easily  and  completely  removed 
from  the  surface  of  it.  When  you  decant  it,  take  care  not  to 
disturb  the  settlings  at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  which  are  so 
fine  that  they  will  escape  through  a  sieve,  or  even  through  a 
TAMIS,  which  is  the  best  strainer,  the  soups  appear  smoother 
and  finer,  and  it  is  much  easier  cleaned  than  any  sieve.  If 
you  strain  it  while  it  is  hot,  pass  it  through  a  clean  tamis  or 
napkin,  previously  soaked  in  cold  water;  the  coldness  of 
this  will  coagulate  the  fat,  and  only  suffer  the  pure  broth  to 
pass  through. 

The  full  flavour  of  the  ingredients  can  only  be  extracted 
by  very  long  and  slow  simmering  ;  during  which  take  cart 
to  prevent  evaporation,  by  covering  the  pot  as  close  as  pos- 
sible :  the  best  stewTpot  is  a  digester. 

Clear  soups  must  be  perfectly  transparent  ;  thickened 
soups,  about  the  consistence  of  rich  cream  ;  and  remember 
that  thickened  soups  require  nearly  double  the  quantity  of 
seasoning.  The  piquance  of  spice,  &c.  is  as  much  blunted 
by  the  flour  and  butter,  as  the  spirit  of  rum  is  by  the  addition 
of  sugar  and  acid  :  so  they  are  less  salubrious,  without  beiup: 


98  BROTHS   AND   SOUPS. 

more  savoury,  from  the  additional  quantity  of  spice,  &c. 
that  is  smuggled  into  the  stomach. 

To  thicken  and  give  body  to  soups  and  sauces,  the  follow- 
ing materials  are  used :  they  must  be  gradually  mixed  with 
the  soup  till  thoroughly  incorporated  with  it ;  and  it  should 
have  at  least  half  an  hour's  gentle  simmering  after :  if  it  is 
at  all  lumpy,  pass  it  through  a  tamis  or  a  fine  sieve.  Bread 
raspings,  bread,  isinglass,  potato  mucilage  (No.  448),  flour, 
or  fat  skimmings  and  flour  (see  No.  248),  or  flour  and  butter, 
barley  (see  No.  204),  rice,  or  oatmeal  and  water  rubbed 
well  together,  (see  No.  257,  in  which  this  subject  is  fully 
explained.) 

To  give  that  glutinous  quality  so  much  admired  in  mock 
turtle,  see  No.  198,  and  note  under  No.  247,  No.  252,  and 
N.B.  to  No.  481. 

To  their  very  rich  gravies,  &c.  the  French  add  the  white 
meat  of  partridges,  pigeons,  or  fowls,  pounded  to  a  pulp, 
and  rubbed  through  a  sieve.  A  piece  of  beef,  which  has  been 
boiled  to  make  broth,  pounded  in  the  like  manner  with  a  bit 
of  butter  and  flour,  see  obs.  to  No.  485*  and  No.  503, 
and  gradually  incorporated  with  the  gravy  or  soup,  will 
be  found  a  satisfactory  substitute  for  these  more  expensive 
articles. 

Meat  from  which  broth  has  been  made  (No.  185*,  and  No, 
252),  and  all  its  juice  has  been  extracted,  is  then  excellently 
well  prepared  for  POTTING,  (see  No.  503),  and  is  quite  as 
good,  or  better,  than  that  which  has  been  baked  till  it  is  dry;* 
indeed,  if  it  be  pounded,  and  seasoned  in  the  usual  manner, 
it  will  be  an  elegant  and  savoury  luncheon,  or  supper,  and 
costs  nothing  but  the  trouble  of  preparing  it,  which  is  very 
little,  and  a  relish  is  procured  for  sandwiches,  &c.  (No.  504) 
of  what  heretofore  has  been  by  the  poorest  housekeeper 
considered  the  perquisite  of  the  CAT. 

Keep  some  spare  broth  lest  your  soup-liquor  waste  in  boil- 
ing, and  get  too  thick,  and  for  gravy  for  your  made  dishes, 
various  sauces,  &c. ;  for  many  of  which  it  is  a  much  better 
basis  than  melted  butter. 

The  soup  of  mock  turtle,  and  the  other  thickened  soups, 
(No.  247),  will  supply  you  with  a  thick  gravy  sauce  for 
poultry,  jfcsh,  ragouts,  &c. ;  and  by  a  little  management  of 
this  sort,  you  may  generally  contrive  to  have  plenty  of  good 

fravies  and  good  sauces  with  very  little  trouble  or  expense, 
ee  also  Portable  Soup  (No.  252). 

*  If  the  gravy  be  not  completely  drained  from  it,  the  article  potted  will  very  soon 
turn  sour. 


BROTHS   AND    SOUP3. 

If  soup  is  too  thin  or  too  weak,  take  off  the  cover  of  your 
soup-pot,  and  let  it  boil  till  some  of  the  watery  part  of  it  has 
evaporated,  or  else  add  some  of  the  thickening  materials  we 
have  before  mentioned ;  and  have  at  hand  some  plain  brown- 
ing :  see  No.  322,  and  the  065.  thereon.  This  simple  pre- 
paration is  much  better  than  any  of  the  compounds  bearing 
that  name ;  as  it  colours  sauce  or  soup  without  much  inter- 
fering with  its  flavour,  and  is  a  much  better  way  of  colour- 
ing them  than  burning  the  surface  of  the  meat. 

When  soups  and  gravies  are  kept  from  day  to  day,  in  ho1, 
weather,  they  should  be  warmed  up  every  day,  and  put  into 
fresh-scalded  tureens  or  pans,  and  placed  in  a  cool  cellar ;  in 
temperate  weather  every  other  day  may  be  enough. 

We  hope  we  have  now  put  the  common  cook  into  posses- 
sion of  the  whole  arcana  of  soup-making,  without  much 
trouble  to  herself,  or  expense  to  her  employers.  It  need  not 
be  said  in  future  that  an  Englishman  only  knows  how  to  make 
soup  in  his  stomach,  by  swilling  down  a  ,large  quantity  of 
ale  or  porter,  to  quench  the  thirst  occasioned  by  the  meat  he 
eats.  JOHN  BULL  may  now  make  his  soup  "  secundum  artem" 
and  save  his  principal  viscera  a  great  deal  of  trouble. 

***  In  the  following  receipts  we  have  directed  the  spices* 
and  flavouring  to  be  added  at  the  usual  time ;  but  it  would 
greatly  diminish  the  expense,  and  improve  the  soups,  if  the 
agents  employed  to  give  them  a  zest  were  not  put  in  above 
fifteen  minutes  before  the  finish,  and  half  the  quantity  of 
spice,  &c.  would  do.  A  strong  heat  soon  dissipates  the 
spirit  of  the  wine,  and  evaporates  the  aroma  and  flavour  of 
the  spices  and  herbs,  which  are  volatile  in  the  heat  of  boiling 
water. 

In  ordering  the  proportions  of  meat,  butter,  wine,  &c.  the 
proper  quantity  is  set  down,  and  less  will  not  do :  we  have 
earned  economy  quite  as  far  as  possible  without  "  spoiling 
the  broth  for  a  halfpenny  worth  of  salt." 

I  conclude  these  remarks  with  observing,  that  some  per- 
sons imagine  that  soup  tends  to  relax  the  stomach.  So  far 
from  being  prejudicial,  we  consider  the  moderate  use  of  such 
liquid  nourishment  to  be  highly  salutary.  Does  not  our  food, 
and  drink,  even  though  cold,  become  in  a  few  minutes  a  kind 
of  warm  soup  in  the  stomach  1  and  therefore  soup,  if  not 
oaten  too  hot,  or  in  too  great  a  quantity,  and  of  proper  qua- 
lity, is  attended  with  great  advantages,  especially  to  those 
who  drink  but  little. 

*  Economists  recommend  these  to  be  pounded ;  they  certainly  go  farther,  as  they 
call  it ;  but  we  think  they  go  too  far,  for  they  go  through  the  sieve,  and  make  the 
<*nip  grouty. 


100  GRAVIES   AND   SAUCES. 

Warm  fluids,  in  the  form  of  soup,  unite  with  our  juices 
much  sooner  and  better  than  those  that  are  cold  and  raw : 
on  this  account,  RESTORATIVE  SOUP  is  the  best  food  for  those 
who  are  enfeebled  by  disease  or  dissipation,  and  for  old 
people,  whose  teeth  and  digestive  organs  are  impaired. 

"  Half  subtilized  to  chyle,  the  liquid  food 
Readiest  obeys  th'  assimilating  powers." 

After  catching  cold,  in  nervous  headaches,  cholics,  indi- 
gestions, and  different  kinds  of  cramp  and  spasms  in  the 
stomach,  warm  broth  is  of  excellent  service. 

After  intemperate  feasting,  to  give  the  stomach  a  holy  day 
for  a  day  or  two  by  a  diet  on  mutton  broth  (No.  564,  or  No. 
572),  or  vegetable  soup  (No.  218),  &c.  is  the  best  way  to 
restore  its  tone.  "  The  stretching  any  power  to  its  utmost 
extent  weakens  it.  If  the  stomach  be  every  day  obliged  to 
do  as  much  as  it  can,  it  will  every  day  be  able  to  do  less.  A 
wise  traveller  will  never  force  his  horse  to  perform  as  much 
as  he  can  in  one  day  upon  a  long  journey." — Father  FEYJOO'S 
Rules,  p.  85. 

To  WARM  SOUPS,  &c.  (No.  485.) 

N.B.  With  the  PORTABLE  SOUP  (No.  252),  a  pint  of  broth 
may  be  made  in  five  minutes  for  threepence. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES. 


t:  The  spirit  of  each  dish,  and  ZKST  of  all, 
Is  what  ingenious  cooks  the  relish  call ; 
For  though  the  market  sends  in  loads  of  food, 
They  are  all  tasteless,  till  that  makes  them  good." 

KING'S  Art  of  Cookery. 


"Exparvis  componere  inagna." 

IT  is  of  as  much  importance  that  the  cook  should  know 
liow  to  make  a  boat  of  good  gravy  for  her  poultry,  &c.  as 
that  it  should  be  sent  up  of  proper  complexion,  and  nicely 
frothed. 

In  this  chapter,  we  shall  endeavour  to  introduce  to  her  all 


CBAVIES,  AND   SAUCES.  101 


the  materials*  which  give^avoiit-m^sa'ttccj^vhieliis^lfe  es- 
sence of  soup,  and  intended  to  contain  more  relish  in  a  tea- 
spoonful  than  the  former  does  in  a  table-spoonfuL 

We  hope  to  deserve  as  much  praise  from  the  economist  as 
we  do  from  the  bon  vivant  ;  as  we  have  taken  great  pains  to 
introduce  to  him  the  methods  of  making  substitutes  for  those 
ingredients,  which  are  always  expensive,  and  often  not  to 
be  had  at  all.  Many  of  these  cheap  articles  are  as  savoury 
and  as  salutary  as  the  dearer  ones,  and  those  who  have  large 
families  and  limited  incomes,  will,  no  doubt,  be  glad  to  avail 
themselves  of  them. 

The  reader  may  rest  assured,  that  whether  he  consults 
this  book  to  diminish  the  expense  or  increase  the  pleasures 
of  hospitality,  he  will  find  all  the  information  that  was  to 
be  obtained  up  to  1826,  communicated  in  the  most  unreserved 
and  intelligible  manner. 

A  great  deal  of  the  elegance  of  cookery  depends  upon  the 
accompaniments  to  each  dish  being  appropriate  and  well 
adapted  to  it. 

We  can  assure  our  readers,  no  attention  has  been  wanting 
on  our  part  to  render  this  department  of  the  work  worthy  of 
their  perusal  ;  each  receipt  is  the  faithful  narrative  of  actual 
and  repeated  experiments,  and  has  received  the  most  deli- 
berate consideration  before  it  was  here  presented  to  them. 
It  is  given  in  the  most  circumstantial  manner,  and  not  in  the 
technical  and  mysterious  language  former  writers  on  these 
subjects  seem  to  have  preferred  ;  by  which  their  directions 
are  useless  and  unintelligible  to  all  who  have  not  regularly 
served  an  apprenticeship  at  the  stove. 

Thus,  instead  of  accurately  enumerating  the  quantities, 
and  explaining  the  process  of  each  composition,  they  order 
a  ladleful  of  stock,,  a  pint  of  consomm^  and  a  spoonful  of 
cullis;  as  if  a  private-family  cook  had  always  at  hand  a 
soup-kettle  full  of  stock,  a  store  of  consomm4,  and  the  larder 
of  Albion  house,  and  the  spoons  mid.  pennyworths  were  the 
same  in  all  ages. 

It  will  be  to  very  little  purpose  that  I  have  taken  so  much 
pains  to  teach  how  to  manage  roasts  and  boils,  if  a  cook 
cannot  or  will  not  make  the  several  sauces  that  are  usually 
sent  up  with  them. 

The  most  homely  fare  may  be  made  relishing,  and  the 
most  excellent  and  independent  improved  by  a  well-made 

*  Sec,  in  pages  91,  92,  A.  CATALOSUB  OF  THE  INGREDIENTS  now  used  in  soupr 

.sauces,  &c. 

IS 


102  QBAYIES   ANIX  "SAUCES. 

sauce  V*  a's"  the  "niost  perfetjf  picture  may,  by  being  well 
varnished. 

We  have,  therefore,  endeavoured  to  give  the  plainest 
directions  how  to  produce,  with  the  least  trouble  and  ex- 
pensef  possible,  all  the  various  compositions  the  English 
kitchen  affords ;  and  hope  to  present  such  a  wholesome  and 
palatable  variety  as  will  suit  all  tastes  and  all  pockets,  so 
that  a  cook  may  give  satisfaction  in  all  families.  The  more 
combinations  of  this  sort  she  is  acquainted  with,  the  better 
she  will  comprehend  the  management  of  every  one  of  them. 

We  have  rejected  some  outlandish  farragoes,  from  a  convic- 
tion that  they  were  by  no  means  adapted  to  an  English  palate. 
If  they  have  been  received  into  some  English  books,  for  the 
sake  of  swelling  the  volume,  we  believe  they  will  never  be 
received  by  an  Englishman's  stomach,  unless  for  the  reason 
they  were  admitted  into  the  cookery  book,  i.  e.  because  he 
has  nothing  else  to  put  into  it. 

However  "  les  pompeuses  bagatelles  de  la  Cuisine  Masqute" 
may  tickle  the  fancy  of  demi-connoisseurs,  who,  leaving  the 
substance  to  pursue  the  shadow,  prefer  wonderful  and 
whimsical  metamorphoses,  and  things  extravagantly  ex- 
pensive to  those  which  are  intrinsically  excellent ;  in  whose 
mouth  mutton  can  hardly  hope  for  a  welcome,  unless  accom- 
panied by  venison  sauce ;  or  a  rabbit,  any  chance  for  a  race 
down  the  red  lane,  without  assuming  the  form  of  a  frog  or 
a  spider ;  or  pork,  without  being  either  "goosified"  or  "  Iambi* 

*  "It  is  the  duty  of  a  good  sauce,"  says  the  editor  of  the  Almanack  des  Gour- 
mands (vol.  v.  page  6),  "to  insinuate  itself  all  round  and  about  the  maxillary  gland?, 
and  imperceptibly  awaken  into  activity  each  ramification  of  the  organs  of  taste :  it" 
not  sufficiently  savoury,  it  cannot  produce  this  effect,  and  if  too  piquante,  it  will 
paralyze,  instead  of  exciting,  those  delicious  titillations  of  tongue  andwibrations  of 
palate,  that  only  the  most  accomplished  philosophers  of  the  mouth  can  produce  on 
the  highly-educated  palates  of  thrice  happy  grands  gourmands." 

f  To  save  time  and  trouble  is  the  most  valuable  frugality :  and  if  the  mistress  ot' 
a  family  will  condescend  to  devote  a  little  time  to  the  profitable  and  pleasant  em- 
ployment of  preparing  some  of  the  STORE  SAUCES,  especially  Nos.  322.  402.  404. 
413. 429.  433.  439. 454 ;  these,  both  epicures  and  economists  will  avail  themselves  or 
the  advantage  now  given  them,  of  preparing  at  home. 

By  the  help  of  these,  many  dishes  may  be  dressed  in  half  the  usual  time,  and  with 
lialf  the  trouble  and  expense,  and  flavoured  and  finished  with  much  more  certainty 
than  by  the  common  methods. 

A  small  portion  of  the  time  which  young  ladies  sacrifice  to  torturing  the  strings 
of  their  piano-forte,  employed  in  obtaining  domestic  accomplishments,  might  not 
make  them  worse  wives,  or  less  agreeable  companions  to  their  husbands.  This  was 
the  opinion  200  years  ago. 

"  To  speak,  then,  of  the  knowledge  which  belongs  unto  our  British  housewife,  I 
hold  the  most  principal  to  be  a  perfect  skill  in  COOKERY  :  she  that  is  utterly  ignorant 
therein,  may  not,  by  the  lawes  of  strict  justice,  challenge  the  freedom  of  marriage, 
because  indeede  she  can  perform  but  half  her  vow :  she  may  love  and  obey,  but  she 
cannot  cherish  and  keepe  her  husband." — G.  MARKHAM'S  English  Housewife*  4to 
1637,  p.  62. 

We  hope  our  fair  readers  will  forgive  us,  for  telling  them  that  economy  in  a  wife, 
is  the  most  certain  charm  to  ensure  the  affection  and  industry  of  a  husband, 


GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES.  103 

jfccZ"  (see  No.  51) ;  and  game  and  poultry  in  the  shape  of 
crawfish  or  hedgehogs;  these  travesties  rather  show  the 
patience  than  the  science  of  the  cook,  and  the  bad  taste  of 
those  who  prefer  such  baby-tricks  to  nourishing  and  sub- 
stantial plain  cookery. 

I  could  have  made  this  the  biggest  book  with  half  the  trouble 
it- has  taken  me  to  make  it  the  best :  concentration  and  per- 
spicuity have  been  my  aim. 

As  much  pains  have  been  taken  in  describing,  in  the  most 
intelligible  manner,  how  to  make,  in  the  easiest,  most  agree- 
able, and  economical  way,  those  common  sauces  that  daily 
contribute  to  the  comfort  of  the  middle  ranks  of  society ;  as 
in  directing  the  preparation  of  those  extravagant  and  elabo- 
rate double  relishes,  the  most  ingenious  and  accomplished 
"  officers  of  the  mouth'1''  have  invented  for  the  amusement  of 
profound  palaticians,  and  thorough-bred  grands  gourmands 
of  the  first  magnitude  :  these  we  have  so  reduced  the 
trouble  and  expense  of  making,  as  to  bring  them  within  the 
reach  of  moderate  fortunes ;  still  preserving  all  that  is  valua- 
ble of  their  taste  and  qualities ;  so  ordering  them,  that  they 
may  delight  the  palate,  without  disordering  the  stomach,  by 
leaving  out  those  inflammatory  ingredients  which  are  only 
fit  for  an  "  iron  throat  and  adamantine  bowels,"  and  those 
costly  materials  which  no  rational  being  would  destroy,  for 
the  wanton  purpose  of  merely  giving  a  fine  name  to  the  com- 
positions they  enter  into,  to  whose  excellence  they  contribute 
nothing  else.  For  instance,  consuming  two  partridges  to  make 
sauce  for  one:  half  a  pint  of  game  gravy  (No.  329,)  will  be 
infinitely  more  acceptable  to  the  unsophisticated  appetite  oi 
Englishmen,  for  whose  proper  and  rational  recreation  we  sat 
down  to  compose  these  receipts;  whose  approbation  we 
have  done  our  utmost  to  deserve,  by  devoting  much  time  to 
the  business  of  the  kitchen ;  and  by  repeating  the  various  pro- 
cesses that  we  thought  admitted  of  the  smallest  improvement. 

We  shall  be  fully  gratified,  if  our  book  is  not  bought  up 
with  quite  so  much  avidity  by  those  high-bred  epicures,  who 
are  unhappily  so  much  more  nice  than  wise,  that  they  cannot 
eat  any  thing  dressed  by  an  English  cook ;  and  vote  it  bar- 
barously unrefined  and  intolerably  ungenteel,  to  endure  the 
sight  of  the  best  bill  of  fare  that  can  be  contrived,  if  written 
in  the  vulgar  tongue  of  old  England.* 

*  Though  some  of  these  people  seem  at  last  to  have  found  out,  that  an  English- 
man's head  may  be  as  full  of  gravy  as  a  Frenchman's,  and  willing  to  give  the  pre- 
ference to  native  talent,  retain  an  Englishman  or  woman  as  prime  minister  of  their 
kitchen ;  still  they  seem  ashamed  to  confess  it,  and  commonly  insist  as  a  "  sine  qua. 
nan,"  that  their  English  domestics  should  understand  the  "parlez  vous ;"  and  not- 


104  GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES. 

Let  your  sauces  each  display  a  decided  character ;  send 
up  your  plain  sauces  (oyster,  lobster,  &c.)  as  pure  as  pos- 
sible :  they  should  only  taste  of  the  materials  from  which 
they  take  their  name. 

The  imagination  of  most  cooks  is  so  incessantly  on  the 
hunt  for  a  relish,  that  they  seem  to  think  they  cannot  make 
sauce  sufficiently  savoury  without  putting  into  it  every  thing 
that  ever  was  eaten;  and  supposing  every  addition  must  be 
an  improvement,  they  frequently  overpower  the  natural 
flavour  of  their  PLAIN  SAUCES,  by  overloading  them  with  salt 
and  spices,  &c. :  but,  remember,  these  will  be  deteriorated  by 
any  addition,  save  only  just  salt  enough  to  awaken  the  palate. 
The  lover  of  "piquance"  and  compound  flavours,  may  have 
recourse  to  '*  the  Magazine  of  Taste,"  No.  462. 

On  the  contrary,  of  COMPOUND  SAUCES  ;  the  ingredients  should 
be  so  nicely  proportioned,  that  no  one  be  predominant ;  so 
that  from  the  equal  union  of  the  combined  flavours  such  a  fine 
mellow  mixture  is  produced,  whose  veiy  novelty  cannot  fail 
of  being  acceptable  to  the  persevering  gourmand,  if  it  has  not 
pretensions  to  a  permanent  place  at  his  table. 

An  ingenious  cook  will  form  as  endless  a  variety  of  these 
compositions  as  a  musician  with  his  seven*  notes,  or  a  painter 
with  his  colours ;  no  part  of  her  business  offers  so  lair  and 
frequent  an  opportunity  to  display  her  abilities:  SPICES, 
HERBS,  &c.  are  often  very  absurdly  and  injudiciously  jumbled 
together. 

Why  have  clove  and  allspice,  or  mace  and  nutmeg,  in  the 
same  sauce;  or  marjoram,  thyme,  and  savoury;  or  onions, 
leeks,  eshalots,  and  garlic  ?  one  will  very  well  supply  the 
place  of  the  other,  and  the  frugal  cook  may  save  something 
considerable  by  attending  to  this,  to  the  advantage  of  her 
employers,  and  her  own  time  and  trouble.  You  might  as 
well,  to  make  soup,  order  one  quart  of  water  from  the  Thames. 
another  from  the  JY*eo>  River,  a  third  from  Hampstead,  and  a 
fourth  from  Chelsea,  with  a  certain  portion  of  spring  and  rain 
water. 

In  many  of  our  receipts  we  have  fallen  in  with  the  fashion 
of  ordering  a  mixture  of  spices,  &c.,  which  the  above  him 
will  enable  the  culinary  student  to  correct. 

"  PHARMACY  is  now  much  more  simple ;  COOKERY  may  be 

withstanding  they  are  perfectly  initiated  in  all  the  minutiae  of  the  philosophy  of  the 
mouth,  consider  them  uneligible,  if  they  cannot  scribble  a  bill  of  fare  in  pretty  gooa 
bad  French, 

*  The  principal  agents  now  employed  to  flavour  soups  and  sauces  are,  MUSH- 
ROOMS (No.  439),  ONIONS  (No.  420),  ANCHOVY  (No.  433),  LEMON-JUICE  andpKEL,  or 
••  INEGAR,  WINK,  (especially  good  CLARETI,  SWEET  HERBS,  and  SAVOURY  SPICKS.  - 
iSros.  4% -422,  and  457.  459,  460. 


GBAVIES   AKD   SAUCES.  105 

made  so  too.  A  prescription  which  is  now  compounded  with 
five  ingredients,  had  formerly  fifty  in  it :  people  begin  to  un- 
derstand that  the  materia  medica  is  little  more  than  a  collec- 
tion of  evacuants  and  stimuli." — BoswelFs  Life  of  Johnson. 

The  ragouts  of  the  last  century  had  infinitely  more  ingre- 
dients than  we  use  now ;  the  praise  given  to  Will.  Rabisha  for 
his  Cookery,  12mo.  1673,  is 

11  To  fry  and  fricassee,  his  way 's  most  neat, 
For  he  compounds  a  thousand  sorts  of  meat." 

To  become  a  perfect  mistress  of  the  art  of  cleverly  ex- 
tracting and  combining  flavours,*  besides  the  gift  of  a  good 
taste,  requires  all  the  experience  and  skill  of  the  most  accom- 
plished professor,  and,  especially,  an  intimate  acquaintance 
with  the  palate  she  is  working  for. 

Send  your  sauces  to  table  as  hot  as  possible. 

Nothing  can  be  more  unsightly  than  the  surface  of  a  sauce 
in  a  frozen  state,  or  garnished  with  grease  on  the  top.  The 
best  way  to  get  rid  of  this,  is  to  pass  it  through  a  tamis  or 
napkin  previously  soaked  in  cold  water;  the  coldness  of  the 
napkin  will  coagulate  the  fat,  and  only  suffer  the  pure  gravy 
to  pass  through:  if  any  particles  of  fat  remain,  take  them  off 
by  applying  filtering  paper,  as  blotting  paper  is  applied  to 
writing. 

Let  your  sauces  boil  up  after  you  put  in  wine,  anchovy,  or 
thickening,  that  their  flavours  may  be  well  blended  with  the 
other  ingredients  ;f  and  keep  in  mind  that  the  "  chef-d'oeuvre" 
of  COOKERY  is,  to  entertain  the  mouth  without  offending  the 
stomach. 

N.B.  Although  I  have  endeavoured  to  give  the  particular 
quantity  of  each  ingredient  used  in  the  following  sauces,  ag 
they  are  generally  made;  still  the  cook's  judgment  must 
direct  her  to  lessen  or  increase  either  of  the  ingredients, 
according  to  the  taste  of  those  she  works  for,  and  will  always 
be  on  the  alert  to  ascertain. what  are  the  favourite  accompani- 
ments desired  with  each  dish.  See  Advice  to  Cooks,  page  50. 

When  you  open  a  bottle  of  catchup  (No.  439),  essence  of 
anchovy  (No.  433),  &c.,  throw  away  the  old  cork,  and  stop  it 
closely  with  a  new  cork  that  will  fit  it  very  tight.  Use  only 
the  best  superfine  velvet  taper-corks. 

*  If  your  palate  becomes  dull  by  repeatedly  tasting,  the  best  way  to  refresh  it  is 
to  wash  your  mouth  well  with  milk. 

t  Before  you  put  eggs  or  cream  into  a  sauce,  have  all  your  other  ingredients  well 
joiled.  and  the  sauce  or  soup  of  proper  thickness ;  because  neither  eggs  nor  cream 
will  contribute  to  thicken  it. — After  you  have  put  them  in,  do  not  set  the  stew-pan 
on  the  stove  again,  but  hold  it  over  the  fire,  and  shake  it  round  one  way  fill  the 
sauce  is  ready. 


106  MADE    DISHES. 

Economy  in  corks  is  extremely  unwise :  in  order  to  save  a 
mere  trifle  in  the  price  of  the  cork,  you  run  the  risk  of  losing 
the  valuable  article  it  is  intended  to  preserve. 

It  is  a  vulgar  error  that  a  bottle  must  be  well  stopped, 
when  the  cork  is  forced  down  even  with  the  mouth  of  it ;  it 
is  rather  a  sign  that  the  cork  is  too  small,  and  it  should  be 
redrawn  and  a  larger  one  put  in. 

To  make  bottle-cement. 

Half  a  pound  of  black  resin,  same  quantity  of  red  sealing- 
wax,  quarter  oz.  bees'  wax,  melted  in  an  earthen  or  iron  pot; 
when  it  froths  up,  before  all  is  melted  and  likely  to  boil  over, 
stir  it  with  a  tallow  candle,  which  will  settle  the  froth  till  all 
is  melted  and  fit  for  use.  Red  wax,  Wd.  per  Ib.  may  be 
bought  at  Mr.  Dew's  Blackmore-street,  Clare-market. 

N.B.  This  cement  is  of  very  great  use  in  preserving 
things  that  you  wish  to  keep  a  long  time,  which  without  its 
help  would  soon  spoil,  from  the  clumsy  and  ineffectual  mari- 
ner in  which  the  bottles  are  corked. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

MADE   DISHES. 

UNDER  this  general  head  we  range  our  receipts  for  HASHES,. 
STEWS,  and  RAGOUTS,*  &c.  Of  these  there  are  a  great  multi- 
tude, affording  the  ingenious  cook  an  inexhaustible  store  of 
variety :  in  the  French  kitchen  they  count  upwards  of  600. 
and  are  daily  inventing  new  ones. 

We  have  very  few  general  observations  to  make,  after 
what  we  have  already  said  in  the  two  preceding  chapters  on 
sauces,  soups,  &c.,  which  apply  to  the  present  chapter,  as  they 
form  the  principal  part  of  the  accompaniment  of  most  of  these 
dishes.  In  fact,  MADE  DISHES  are  nothing  mare  than  meat., 
poultry  (No.  530),  or  fish  (Nos.  146,  158,  or  164),  stewed  very 
gently  till  they  are  tender,  with  a  thickened  sauce  poured 
over  them. 

*  Sauce  for  ragofits,  &c.,  should  be  thickened  till  it  is  of  the  consistence  of  gooS 
rich  cream,  that  it  may  adhere  to  whatever  it  is  poured  over.  When  you  have  a 
large  dinner  to  dress,  keep  ready-mixed  some  fine-sifted  flour  and  water  well  rubbeft 
together  till  quite  smooth,  and  about  as  thick  as  butter.  See  No.  257. 


MADE    DISHES.  107 

Be  careful  to  trim  off  all  the  skin,  gristle,  &c.  that  will  not 
be  eaten ;  and  shape  handsomely,  and  of  even  thickness,  the 
various  articles  which  compose  your  made  dishes :  this  is 
sadly  neglected  by  common  cooks.  Only  stew  them  till  they 
are  just  tender,  and  do  not  stew  them  to  rags;  therefore, 
what  you  prepare  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  eaten,  do  not  dress 
quite  enough  the  first  day. 

We  have  given  receipts  for  the  most  easy  and  simple  way 
to  make  HASHES,  &c.  Those  who  are  well  skilled  in  culinary 
arts  can  dress  up  things  in  this  way,  so  as  to  be  as  agreeable 
as  they  were  the  first  time  they  were  cooked.  But  hashing 
is  a  very  bad  mode  of  cookery:  if  meat  has  been  done 
enough  the  first  time  it  is  dressed,  a  second  dressing  will 
divest  it  of  all  its  nutritive  juices ;  and  if  it  can  be  smuggled 
into  the  stomach  by  bribing  the  palate  with  piquante  sauce, 
it  is  at  the  hazard  of  an  indigestion,  &c. 

I  promise  those  who  do  me  the  honour  to  put  my  receipts 
into  practice,  that  they  will  find  that  the  most  nutritious  and 
truly  elegant  dishes  are  neither  the  most  difficult  to  dress, 
the  most  expensive,  nor  the  most  indigestible.  In  these  com- 
positions experience  will  go  far  to  diminish  expense  :  meat 
that  is  too  old  or  too  tough  for  roasting,  &c.,  may  by  gentle 
stewing  be  rendered  savoury  and  tender.  If  some  of  our 
receipts  do  differ  a  little  from  those  in  former  cookery  books. 
let  it  be  remembered  we  have  advanced  nothing  in  this  work 
that  has  not  been  tried,  and  experience  has  proved  correct. 

N.B.  See  No.  483,  an  ingenious  and  economical  system 
of  FRENCH  COOKERY,  written  at  the  request  of  the  editor  by 
an  accomplished  ENGLISH  LADY,  which  will  teach  you  how 
to  supply  your  table  with  elegant  little  made  dishes,  &c.  at 
as  little  expense  as  plain  cookery. 


THfi 


COOK'S  ORACLE. 


BOILING. 

[Read  the  first  chapter  of  the  Rudiments  of  Cookery.] 
Leg  of  Mutton.— (No.  1.) 

CUT  off  the  shank  bone,  and  trim  the  knuckle,  put  it  into 
lukewarm  water  for  ten  minutes,  wash  it  clean,  cover  it  with 
cold  water,  and  let  it  simmer  very  gently,  and  skim  it  care- 
fully. A  leg  of  nine  pounds  will  take  two  and  a  half  or 
three  hours,  if  you  like  it  thoroughly  done,  especially  in 
very  cold  weather. 

For  the  accompaniments,  see  the  following  receipt. 

N.B.  The  tit-bits  with  an  epicure  are  the  "  knuckle,"  the 
Kernel,  called  the  "pope's  eye,"  and  the  "gentleman's,"  or 
•' cramp  bone"  or,  as  it  is  called  in  Kent,  the  " CAW  CAW,'" 
four  of  these  and  a  bounder  furnish  the  little  masters  and 
mistresses  of  Kent  with  their  most  favourite  set  of  play- 
things. 

A  leg  of  mutton  stewed  very  slowly,  as  we  have  directed 
the  beef  to  be  (No.  493),  will  be  as  agreeable  to  an  English 
appetite  as  the  famous  "gigot*de  sept  heures"  of  the  French 
liitchen  is  to  a  Parisian  palate. 

When  mutton  is  very  large,  you  may  divide  it,  and  roasi 
the  fillet,  i.  e.  the  large  end,  and  boil  the  knuckle  end ;  you  may 
also  cut  some  fine  cutlets  off  the  thick  end  of  the  leg,  and 
so  have  two  or  three  good  hot  dinners.  See  Mrs.  MAKEITDO'* 
receipt  how  to  make  a  leg  of  mutton  last  a  week,  in 
:;  the  housekeeper's  leger"  printed  for  Whittaker,  Ave-Markt 
Lane. 

Tlie  liquor  the  mutton  is  boiled  in,  you  may  convert  into 
good  soup  in  five  minutes,  (see  N.B.  to  No.  218,)  and  Scotch 
barley  broth  (No.  204).  Thus  managed,  a  leg  of  mutton  is 
a  most  economical  joint. 

t  The  fiffot  is  the  leg. with  part  of  the  loin. 


BOILING.  109 

Neck  of  Mutton.— (No.  2.) 

Put  four  or  five  pounds  of  the  best  end  of  a  neck  (that  has 
been  kept  a  few  days)  into  as  much  cold  soft  water  as  will 
cover  it,  and  about  two  inches  over;  let  it  simmer  very 
slowly  for  two  hours :  it  will  look  most  delicate  if  you  do 
not  take  off  the  skin  till  it  has  been  boiled. 

For  sauce,  that  elegant  and  innocent  relish,  parsley  and 
butter  (No.  261),  or  eshalot  (No.  294  or  5),  or  caper  sauce 
(No.  274),  mock  caper  sauce  (No.  275),  and  onion  sauce 
(No.  298),  turnips  (No.  130),  or  spinage  (No.  121),  are  the 
usual  accompaniments  to  boiled  mutton. 

Lamb.— (No.  3.) 

A  leg  of  five  pounds  should  simmer  very  gently  for  about 
two  hours,  from  the  time  it  is  put  on,  in  cold  water.  After 
the  general  rules  for  boiling,  in  the  first  chapter  of  the  Rudi- 
ments of  Cookery,  we  have  nothing  to  add,  only  to  send  up 
with  it  spinage  (No.  122),  broccoli  (No.  126),  cauliflower 
(No.  125),  &c..  and  for  sauce,  No.  261. 

Pea*.— (No.  4.) 

This  is  expected  to  come  to  table  looking  delicately  clean ; 
and  it  is  so  easily  discoloured,  that  you  must  be  careful  to 
have  clean  water,  a  clean  vessel,  and  constantly  catch  the 
b-cum  as  soon  and  as  long  as  it  rises,  and  attend  to  the  direc- 
tions before  given  in  the  first  chapter  of  the  Rudiments  of 
Cookery.  Send  up  bacon  (No.  13),  fried  sausages  (No.  87). 
or  pickled  pork,  greens,  (No.  118  and  following  Nos.)  and 
parsley  and  butter  (No.  261),  onion  sauce  (No.  298). 

N.B.  For  receipts  to  cook  veal,  see  from  No.  512  to  No. 
521. 

Beefbouilli,— (No.  5.) 

In  plain  English,  is  understood  to  mean  boiled  beef;  but 
its  culinary  acceptation,  in  the  French  kitchen,  is  fresh  beet' 
dressed  without  boiling,  and  only  very  gently  simmered  by  a 
slow  fire. 

Cooks  have  seldom  any  notion,  that  good  soup  can  be  made 
without  destroying  a  great  deal  of  meat;  however,  by  a 
judicious  regulation  of  the  fire,  and  a  vigilant  attendance  oii 
the  soup-kettle,  this  may  be  accomplished.  You  shall  hav& 
a  tureen  of  such  soup  as  will  satisfy  the  most  fastidious 
palate,  and  the  meat  make  its  appearance  at  table,  at  the 


1 10  BOILING. 

same  time,  in  possession  of  a  full  portion  of  nutritious  suc- 
culence. 

This  requires  nothing  more  than  to  stew  the  meat  very 
slowly  (instead  of  keeping  the  pot  boiling  a  gallop,  as  com- 
mon cooks  too  commonly  do),  and  to  take  it  up  as  soon  as 
it  is  done  enough.  See  "Soup  and  bouilli"  (No.  238), 
"  Shin  of  beef  stewed"  (No.  493),  "  Scotch  barley  broth" 
(No.  204). 

Meat  cooked  in  this  manner  affords  much  more  nourish- 
ment than  it  does  dressed  in  the  common  way,  is  easy  of 
digestion  in  proportion  as  it  is  tender,  and  an  invigorating, 
substantial  diet,  especially  valuable  to  the  poor,  whose  labo- 
rious employments  require  support. 

If  they  could  get  good  eating  put  within  their  reach,  they 
would  often  go  to  the  butcher's  shop,  when  they  now  run  to 
the  public-house. 

Among  the  variety  of  schemes  that  have  been  suggested 
for  bettering  the  condition  of  the  poor,  a  more  useful  or  ex- 
tensive charity  cannot  be  devised,  than  that  of  instructing 
them  in  economical  and  comfortable  cookery,  except  pro- 
viding them  with  spectacles. 

"The  poor  in  Scotland,  and  on  the  Continent,  manage 
much  better.  Oatmeal  porridge  (Nos.  205  and  572)  and 
milk,  constitute  the  breakfast  and  supper  of  those  patterns 
of  industry,  frugality,  and  temperance,  the  Scottish  pea- 
santry. 

"  When  they  can  afford  meat,  they  form  with  it  a  large 
quantity  of  barley  broth  (No.  204),  with  a  variety  of  vege- 
tables, by  boiling  the  whole  a  long  time,  enough  to  serve  the 
family  for  several  days. 

"  When  they  cannot  afford  meat,  they  make  broth  of 
barley  and  other  vegetables,  with  a  lump  of  butter  (see  No. 
329),  all  of  which  they  boil  for  many  hours,  and  this  with 
oat  cakes  forms  their  dinner."  COCHRANE'S  Seaman's  Guide, 
p.  34. 

The  cheapest  method  of  making  a  nourishing  soup  is  least 
known  to  those  who  have  most  need  of  it.  (See  No.  229.) 

Our  neighbours  the  French  are  so  justly  famous  for  their 
skill  in  the  affairs  of  the  kitchen,  that  the  adage  says,  "  as 
many  Frenchmen  as  many  cooks :"  surrounded  as  they  are 
by  a  profusion  of  the  most  delicious  wines  and  most  seducing 
liqueurs,  offering  every  temptation  and  facility  to  render 
drunkenness  delightful :  yet  a  tippling  Frenchman  is  a  "  rara 
avis ;"  they  know  how  so  easily  and  completely  to  keep  life 
in  repair  by  good  eating,  that  they  require  little  or  no  adjust- 
ment  from  drinking. 


BOILING.  1H 

This  accounts  for  that  "  toujours  gai,"  and  happy  equilU 
brium  of  spirits,  which  they  enjoy  with  more  regularity  than 
any  people.  Their  stomach,  being  unimpaired  by  spirituous 
liquors,  embrace  and  digest  vigorously  the  food  they  saga- 
ciously prepare  for  it,  and  render  easily  assimilable  by  cook- 
ing it  sufficiently,  wisely  contriving  to  get  the  difficult  part  of 
the  work  of  the  stomach  done  by  fire  and  water. 

To  salt  Meat.— (No.  6.) 

In  the  summer  season,  especially,  meat  is  frequently  spoiled 
by  the  cook  forgetting  to  take  out  the  kernels ;  one  in  the 
udder  of  a  round  of  beef,  in  the  fat  in  the  middle  of  the 
round,  those  about  the  thick  end  of  the  flank,  &c. :  if  these 
are  not  taken  out,  all  the  salt  in  the  world  will  not  keep  the 
meat. 

The  art  of  salting  meat  is  to  rub  in  the  salt  thoroughly 
and  evenly  into  every  part,  and  to  fill  all  the  holes  full  of  salt 
where  the  kernels  were  taken  out,  and  where  the  butcher's 
skewers  were. 

A  round  of  beef  of  25  pounds  will  take  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  salt  to  be  rubbed  in  all  at  first,  and  requires  to 
be  turned  and  rubbed  every  day  with  the  brine ;  it  will  be 
ready  for  dressing  in  four  or  five  days,*  if  you  do  not  wish 
it  very  salt. 

In  summer,  the  sooner  meat  is  salted  after  it  is  killed 
the  better ;  and  care  must  be  taken  to  defend  it  from  the  flies. 

In  winter,  it  will  eat  the  shorter  and  tenderer,  if  kept  a  few 
days  (according  to  the  temperature  of  the  weather)  until  its 
fibre^  has  become  short  and  tender,  as  these  changes  do  not 
take' place  after  it  has  been  acted  upon  by  the  salt. 

In  frosty  weather,  take  care  the  meat  is  not  frozen,  and 
warm  the  salt  in  a  frying-pan.  The  extremes  of  heatf  and 
cold  are  equally  unfavourable  for  the  process  of  salting.  In 
the  former,  the  meat  changes  before  the  salt  can  affect  it : 
in  the  latter,  it  is  so  hardened,  and  its  juices  are  so  congealed, 
that  the  salt  cannot  penetrate  it. 

If  you  wish  it  red,  rub  it  first  with  saltpetre,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  half  an  ounce,  and  the  like  quantity  of  moist 
sugar,  to  a  pound  of  common  salt.  (See  Savoury  salt  beef, 
No.  496.) 

*  If  not  to  be  cut  till  coW,  two  days  longer  salting  will  not  only  improve  its  flavour, 
'but  the  meat  will  keep  better. 

t  In  the  West  Indies  they  can  scarcely  cure  beef  with  pickle,  but  easily  preserve 
it  by  cutting  it  iuto  thin  slices  and  dipping  them  in  sea-water,  and  then  drying  then 
quickly  in  the  sun;  to  which  they  give  the  name  of  jerked  free/. — BROWNRIGO' in 
Salt,  8vo.  p.  762. 


112  SOIUKG. 

You  may  impregnate  meat  with  a  very  agreeable  vegetable 
flavour,  by  pounding  some  sweet  herbs  (No.  459,)  and  an 
onion  with  the  salt.  You  may  make  it  still  more  relishing 
by  adding  a  little  ZEST  (No.  255),  or  savoury  spice  (No.  457). 

To  pickle  Meat. 

"  Six  pounds  of  salt,  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  four  ounces 
of  saltpetre,  boiled  with  four  gallons  of  water,  skimmed,  and 
allowed  to  cool,  forms  a  very  strong  pickle,  which  will  pre- 
serve any  meat  completely  immersed  in  it.  To  effect  this, 
which  is  essential,  either  a  heavy  board  or  a  flat  stone  must 
be  laid  upon  the  meat.  The  same  pickle  may  be  used  re- 
peatedly, provided  it  be  boiled  up  occasionally  with  additional 
salt  to  restore  its  strength,  diminished  by  the  combination 
of  part  of  the  salt  with  the  meat,  and  by  the  dilution  of  the 
pickle  by  the  juices  of  the  meat  extracted.  By  boiling,  the 
albumen,  which  would  cause  the  pickle  to  spoil,  is  coagu- 
lated, and  rises  in  the  form  of  scum,  which  must  be  care- 
fully removed." — See  Supplement  to  Encyclop.  Britan.  voL 
iv.  p.  340. 

Meat  kept  immersed  in  pickle  gains  weight.  In  one  expe- 
riment by  Messrs.  Donkin  and  Gamble,  there  was  a  gam  of 
three  per  cent.,  and  in  another  of  two  and  a  half;  but  in  the 
common  way  of  salting,  when  the  meat  is  not  immersed  in 
pickle,  there  is  a  loss  of  about  one  pound,  or  one  and  a  half, 
in  sixteen.  See  Dr.  Wilkinson's  account  of  the  preserving 
power  of  PYRO-LIGNEOUS  ACID,  &c.  in  the  Philosophical  Maga- 
zine for  1821,  No.  273,  p.  12. 

An  H-bone  of  10  or  12  pounds  weight  will  require  about 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  salt,  and  an  ounce  of  moist 
sugar,  to  be  well  rubbed  into  it.  It  will  be  ready  in  four  or 
five  days,  if  turned  and  rubbed  every  day. 

The  time  meat  requires  salting  depends  upon  the  weight 
of  it,  and  how  much  salt  is  used :  and  if  it  be  rubbed  in  with 
a  heavy  hand,  it  will  be  ready  much  sooner  than  if  only 
lightly  rubbed. 

N.  B.  Dry  the  salt,  and  rub  it  with  the  sugar  in  a  mortar. 

PORK  requires  a  longer  tune  to  cure  (in  proportion  to  its 
weight)  than  beef.  A  leg  of  pork  should  be  in  salt  eight  or 
ten  days  ;  turn  it  and  rub  it  eveiy  day. 

Salt  meat  should  be  well  washed  before  it  is  boiled,  espe- 
cially if  it  has  been  in  salt  long,  that  the  liquor  in  which  the 
meat  is  boiled,  may  not  be  too  salt  to  make  soup  of.  (No. 
218,  &c.  and  No.  555.) 

If  it  lias  been  in  salt  a  long  time,  and  you  fear  that  it  will 


BOILING.  113 

be  too  salt,  wash  it  well  in  cold  water,  and  soak  it  in  luke- 
warm water  for  a  couple  of  hours.  If  it  is  very  salt,  lay  it 
in  water  the  night  before  you  intend  to  dress  it. 

A  Round  of  salted  Beef.— (No.  7.) 

As  this  is  too  large  for  a  moderate  family,  we  shall  write 
directions  for  the  dressing  half  a  round.  Get  the  tongue  side. 

Skewer  it  up  tight  and  round,  and  tie  a  fillet  of  broad  tape 
round  it,  to  keep  the  skewers  in  their  places. 

Put  it  into  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  carefully  catch  the 
scum  as  soon  as  it  rises :  let  it  boil  till  all  the  scum  is  re- 
moved, and  then  put  the  boiler  on  one  side  of  the  fire,  to  keep 
simmering  slowly  till  it  is  done. 

Half  a  round  of  15lbs.  will  take  about  three  hours :  if  it 
weighs  more,  give  it  more  time. 

When  you  take  it  up,  if  any  stray  scum,  &c.  sticks  to  it 
that  has  escaped  the  vigilance  of  your  skimmer,  wash  it  off 
with  a  paste-brush:  garnish  the  dishes  with  carrots  and 
turnips.  Send  up  carrots  (No.  129),  turnips  (No.  130),  and 
parsnips,  or  greens  (No.  118),  &c.  on  separate  dishes.  Pease 
pudding  (No.  555),  and  MY  PUDDING  (No.  551),  are  all  very 
proper  accompaniments. 

N.B.  The  outside  slices,  which  are  generally  too  much 
salted  and  too  much  boiled,  will  make  a  very  good  relish  as 
potted  beef  (No.  503).  For  using  up  the  remains  of  a  joint 
of  boiled  beef,  see  also  Bubble  and  Squeak  (No.  505). 

H-Bone  of  Beef,— (No.  8.) 

Is  to  be  managed  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as  the  round, 
but  will  be  sooner  boiled,  as  it  is  not  so  solid.  An  H-bone 
of  SOlbs.  will  be  done  enough  in  about  four  hours ;  of  lOlbs. 
in  three  hours,  more  or  less,  as  the  weather  is  hotter  or 
colder.  Be  sure  the  boiler  is  big  enough  to  allow  it  plenty 
of  water-room :  let  it  be  well  covered  with  water :  set  the 
pot  on  one  side  of  the  fire  to  boil  gently :  if  it  boils  quick  at 
first,  no  art  can  make  it  tender  after.  The  slower  it  boils, 
the  better  it  will  look,  and  the  tenderer  it  will  be.  The  same 
accompanying  vegetables  as  in  the  preceding  receipt.  Dress 
plenty  of  carrots,  as  cold  carrots  are  a  general  favourite  with 
cold  beef. 

Mem. — Epicures  say,  that  the  soft,  fat-like  marrow,  which 
lies  on  the  back,  is  delicious  when  hot,  and  the  hard  fat  about 
the  upper  corner  is  best  when  cold. 

To  make  PERFECTLY  GOOD  PEASE  SOUP  in  ten  minutes,  of 
K2 


1 14  BOILING. 

the  liquor  in  which  the  beef  has  been  boiled,  see  N.B.  to* 
No.  218. 

Obs.— In  "  Mrs.  Mason's  Ladies'  Assistant,"  this  joint  is 
called  haunch-bone ;  in  "  Henderson's  Cookery,"  edge-bone ; 
in  "  Domestic  Management,"  aitch-bone ;  in  "  Reynold's 
Cookery,"  ische-bone;  in  "Mrs.  Lydia  Fisher's  Prudent 
Housewife,"  ach-bone ;  in  "  Mrs.  M'lver's  Cookery,"  hook- 
bone.  We  have  also  seen  it  spelled  each-bone  and  ridge- 
bone  ;  and  we  have  also  heard  it  called  natch-bone. 

N.B.  Read  the  note  under  No.  7  ;  and  to  make  perfectly 
good  pease  soup  of  the  pot-liquor,  in  ten  minutes,  see  Obs. 
to  No.  218,  No.  229,  and  No.  555. 

Ribs  of  Beef  salted  and  rolled.— (No.  9.) 

Briskets,  and  the  various  other  pieces,  are  dressed  in  the 
same  way.  "  Wow-wow"  sauce  (No.  328,)  is  an  agreeable 
companion. 

Half  a  Calfs  Head.— (No.  10.) 

Cut  it  in  two,  and  take  out  the  brains  :  wash  the  head  well 
in  several  waters,  and  soak  it  in  warm  water  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  before  you  dress  it.  Put  the  head  into  a  sauce- 
pan, with  plenty  of  cold  water :  when  it  is  coming  to  a  boil, 
and  the  scum  rises,  carefully  remove  it. 

Half  a  calf  s  head  (without  the  skin)  will  take  from  an 
hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  and  a  quarter,  according  to  its 
size ;  with  the  skin  on,  about  an  hour  longer.  It  must  be 
stewed  very  gently  till  it  is  tender :  it  is  then  extremely  nutri- 
tive, and  easy  of  digestion. 

Put  eight  or  ten  sage  leaves  (some  cooks  use  parsley 
instead,  or  equal  parts  of  each)  into  a  small  sauce-pan :  boil 
them  tender  (about  half  an  hour) ;  then  chop  them  very  fine, 
and  set  them  ready  on  a  plate. 

Wash  the  brains  well  in  two  waters ;  put  them  into  a  large 
basin  of  cold  water,  with  a  little  salt  in  it,  and  let  them  soak 
for  an  hour ;  then  pour  away  the  cold,  and  cover  them  with 
hot  water ;  and  when  you  have  cleaned  and  skinned  them, 
put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  plenty  of  cold  water :  when 
it  boils,  take  the  scum  off  very  carefully,  and  boil  gently  for 
10  or  15  minutes  :  now  chop  them  (not  very  fine) ;  put  them 
into  a  sauce-pan  with  the  sage  leaves  and  a  couple  of  table- 
spoonsful  of  thin  melted  butter,  and  a  little  salt  (to  this  some 
cooks  add  a  little  lemon-juice),  and  stir  them  well  together; 
and  as  soon  as  they  are  well  warmed  (take  care  they  don't 


BOILING.  115 

burn),  skin  the  tongue,*  trim  off  the  roots,  and  put  it  in  the 
middle  of  a  dish,  and  the  brains  round  it :  or,  chop  the 
brains  with  an  eschalot,  a  little  parsley,  and  four  hard-boiled 
eggs,  and  put  them  into  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  bechamel,  or 
white  sauce  (No.  2  of  364).  A  calPs  cheek  is  usually  attended 
by  a  pig's  cheek,  a  knuckle  of  ham  or  bacon  (No.  13,  or  No, 
526),  or  pickled  pork  (No.  11),  and  greens,  broccoli,  cauli- 
flowers, or  pease ;  and  always  by  parsley  and  butter  (see 
No.  261,  No.  311,  or  No.  343). 

If  you  like  it  full  dressed,  score  it  superficially,  beat  up 
the  yelk  of  an  egg,  and  rub  it  over  the  head  with  a  feather ; 
powder  it  with  a  seasoning  of  finely  minced  (or  dried  and 
powdered)  winter  savoury  or  lemon-thyme  (or  sage),  pars- 
ley, pepper,  and  salt,  and  bread  crumbs,  and  give  it  a  brown 
with  a  salamander,  or  in  a  tin  Dutch  oven :  when  it  begins 
to  dry,  sprinkle  a  little  melted  butter  over  it  with  a  paste- 
brush. 

You  may  garnish  the  dish  with  broiled  rashers  of  bacon 
(No.  526  or  527). 

O&s.— Calf's  head  is  one  of  the  most  delicate  and  favourite 
dishes  in  the  list  of  boiled  meats;  but  nothing  is  more 
insipid  when  cold,  and  nothing  makes  so  nice  a  hash;  there- 
fore don't  forget  to  save  a  quart  of  the  liquor  it  was  boiled 
in  to  make  sauce,  &c.  for  the  hash  (see  also  No.  520). 
Cut  the  head  and  tongue  into  slices,  trim  them  neatly,  and 
leave  out  the  gristles  and  fat ;  and  slice  some  of  the  bacon 
that  was  dressed  to  eat  with  the  head,  and  warm  them  in 
the  hash. 

Take  the  bones  and  the  trimmings  of  the  head,  a  bundle 
of  sweet  herbs,  an  onion,  a  roll  of  lemon-peel,  and  a  blade 
of  bruised  mace :  put  these  into  a  sauce-pan  with  the  quart 
of  liquor  you  have  saved,  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  an  hour ; 
pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  wash  out  your  stew-pan, 
add  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  to  the  brains  and  parsley  and 
butter  you  have  left,  and  pour  it  into  the  gravy  you  have  made 
with  the  bones  and  trimmings ;  let  it  boil  up  for  ten  minutes, 
and  then  strain  it  through  a  hair-sieve;  season  it  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  white  wine,  or  of  catchup  (No.  439),  or 
sauce  superlative  (No.  429) :  give  it  a  boil  up,  skim  it,  and 
then  put  in  the  brains  and  the  slices  of  head  and  bacon ;  as 
soon  as  they  are  thoroughly  warm  (it  must  not  boil)  the  hash 
is  ready.  Some  cooks  egg,  bread-crumb,  and  fry  the  finest 
pieces  of  the  head,  and  lay  them  round  the  hash. 
N.B.  You  may  garnish  the  edges  of  the  dish  with  slices 

*  This,  salted,  makes  a  very  pretty  supper-dish. 


1 16  BOILING. 

of  bacon  toasted  in  a  Dutch  oven  (see  Nos.  526  and 
slices  of  lemon  and  fried  bread. 
To  make  gravy  for  hashes,  &c.  see  No.  360. 

Pickled  Porfc,-(No.  11.) 

Takes  more  time  than  any  other  meat.  If  you  buy  your 
pork  ready  salted,  ask  how  many  days  it  has  been  in  salt ; 
•f  many,  it  will  require  to  be  soaked  in  water  for  six  hours 
before  you  dress  it.  When  you  cook  it,  wash  and  scrape  it 
as  clean  as  possible ;  when  delicately  dressed,  it  is  a  favourite 
dish  with  almost  every  body.  Take  care  it  does  not  boil 
fast ;  if  it  does,  the  knuckle  will  break  to  pieces,  before  the 
thick  part  of  the  meat  is  warm  through ;  a  leg  of  seven 
pounds  takes  three  hours  and  a  half  very  slow  simmering. 
Skim  your  pot  very  carefully,  and  when  you  take  the  meat 
out  of  the  boiler,  scrape  it  clean. 

Some  sagacious  cooks  (who  remember  to  how  many  more 
nature  has  given  eyes  than  she  has  given  tongues  and  brains), 
when  pork  is  boiled,  score  it  in  diamonds,  and  take  out  every 
other  square ;  and  thus  present  a  retainer  to  the  eye  to  plead 
for  them  to  the  palate;  but  this  is  pleasing  the  eye  at  the 
expense  of  the  palate.  A  leg  of  nice  pork,  nicely  salted,  and 
nicely  boiled,  is  as  nice  a  cold  relish  as  cold  ham ;  especially 
if,  instead  of  cutting  into  the  middle  when  hot,  and  so  letting 
out  its  juices,  you  cut  it  at  the  knuckle :  slices  broiled,  as 
No.  487,  are  a  good  luncheon,  or  supper.  To  make  pease 
pudding,  and  pease  soup  extempore,  see  N.B.  to  Nos.  218 
and  555. 

MEM. — Some  persons  who  sell  pork  ready  salted  have  a 
silly  trick  of  cutting  the  knuckle  in  two ;  we  suppose  that 
this  is  done  to  save  their  salt ;  but  it  lets  all  the  gravy  out 
of  the  leg;  and  unless  you  boil  your  pork  merely  for  the 
sake  of  the  pot-liquor,  which  in  this  case  receives  all  the 
goodness  and  strength  of  the  meat,  friendly  reader,  your 
oracle  cautions  you  to  buy  no  leg  of  pork  which  is  slit  at  the 
knuckle. 

If  pork  is  not  done  enough,  nothing  is  more  disagreeable ; 
if  too  much,  it  not  only  loses  its  colour  and  flavour,  but  its 
substance  becomes  soft  like  a  jelly. 

It  must  never  appear  at  table  without  a  good  pease  pudding 
(see  No.  555),  and,  if  you  please,  parsnips  (No.  128) ;  they 
are  an  excellent  vegetable,  and  deserve  to  be  much  more 
popular ;  or  carrots  (No.  129),  turnips,  and  greens,  or  mashed 
potatoes,  &c.  (No.  106.) 

Obs. — Remember  not  to  forget  the  mustard-pot  (No.  369, 
No.  370.  and  No.  427). 


BOILING.  1 17 

Pettitoes,  or  Sucking-Pig's  Feet.— (No.  12.) 

Put  a  thin  slice  of  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  a  stew-pan  with 
.some  broth,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  few  pepper-corns,  and  a  bit 
ef  thyme ;  boil  the  feet  till  they  are  quite  tender ;  this  will 
take  full  twenty  minutes ;  but  the  heart,  liver,  and  lights  will 
be  done  enough  in  ten,  when  they  are  to  be  taken  out,  and 
minced  fine. 

Put  them  all  together  into  a  stew-pan  with  some  gravy; 
thicken  it  with  a  little  butter  rolled  in  flour ;  season  it  with  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  and  set  it  over  a  gentle  fire  to  simmer 
for  five  minutes,  frequently  shaking  them  about. 

While  this  is  doing,  have  a  thin  slice  of  bread  toasted  very 
lightly ;  divide  it  into  sippets,  and  lay  them  round  the  dish : 
pour  the  mince  and  sauce  into  the  middle  of  it,  and  split  the 
feet,  and  lay  them  round  it. 

N.B.  Pettitoes  are  sometimes  boiled  and  dipped  in  batter, 
nnd  fried  a  light  brown. 

Obs. — If  you  have  no  gravy,  put  into  the  water  you 
stew  the  pettitoes  in  an  onion,  a  sprig  of  lemon  thyme,  or 
sweet  marjoram,  with  a  blade  of  bruised  mace,  a  few  black 
peppers,  and  a  large  tea-spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup 
(No.  439),  and  you  will  have  a  veiy  tolerable  substitute 
Tor  gravy.  A  bit  of  No.  252  will  be  a  very  great  improve- 
ment to  it. 

Bacon.— (No.  13.) 

Cover  a  pound  of  nice  streaked  bacon  (as  the  Hampshire 
housewives  say,  that  "  has  been  starved  one  day,  and  fed 
Another")  with  cold  water,  let  it  boil  gently  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour ;  take  it  up,  scrape  the  under-side  well,  and  cut  off 
the  rind :  grate  a  crust  of  bread  not  only  on  the  top,  but  all 
Over  it,  as  directed  for  the  ham  in  the  following  receipt,  and 
put  it  before  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes :  it  must  not  be  there 
too  long,  or  it  will  dry  it  and  spoil  it. 

Two  pounds  will  require  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  accord- 
itig  to  its  thickness ;  the  hock  or  gammon  being  very  thick, 
will  take  more. 

Obs.— See  Nos.  526  and  527 :  when  only  a  little  bacon  is 
\vanted,  these  are  the  best  ways  of  dressing  it. 

The  boiling  of  bacon  is  a  very  simple  subject  to  comment 
upon;  but  our  main  object  is  to  teach  common  cooks  the 
art  of  dressing  common  food  in  the  best  manner. 

Bacon  is  sometimes  as  salt  as  salt  can  make  it,  therefore 
before  it  is  boiled  it  must  be  soaked  in  warm  water  for  an 


118  BOILING. 

hour  or  two,  changing  the  water  once ;  then  pare  off  the 
rusty  and  smoked  part,  trim  it  nicely  on  the  under  side,  and 
scrape  the  rind  as  clean  as  possible. 

-MEM. — Bacon  is  an  extravagant  article  in  housekeeping ; 
there  is  often  twice  as  much  dressed  as  need  be :  when  it  is 
sent  to  table  as  an  accompaniment  to  boiled  poultry  or  veal, 
a  pound  and  a  half  is  plenty  for  a  dozen  people.  A  good 
German  sausage  is  a  very  economical  substitute  for  bacon ; 
or  fried  pork  sausages  (No.  87). 

Ham,  (No.  14.) 

Though  of  the  bacon  kind,  has  been  so  altered  and  hardened 
in  the  curing,  that  it  requires  still  more  care. 

Ham  is  generally  not  half-soaked ;  as  salt  as  brine,  and 
hard  as  flint ;  and  it  would  puzzle  the  stomach  of  an  ostrich 
to  digest  it. 

MEM. — The  salt,  seasoning,  and  smoke,  which  preserve  it 
before  it  is  eaten,  prevent  its  solution  after ;  and  unless  it  be 
very  long  and  very  gently  stewed,  the  strongest  stomach 
will  have  a  tough  job  to  extract  any  nourishment  from  it. 
If  it  is  a  very  dry  Westphalia  ham,  it  must  be  soaked,  ac- 
cording to  its  age  and  thickness,  from  12  to  24  hours  ;  for  a 
green  Yorkshire  or  Westmoreland  ham,  from  four  to  eight 
hours  will  be  sufficient.  Lukewarm  water  will  soften  it 
much  sooner  than  cold,  when  sufficiently  soaked,  trim  it 
nicely  on  the  underside,  and  pare  off  all  the  rusty  and  smoked 
parts  till  it  looks  delicately  clean. 

lb.    oz. 

A  ham  weighed  before  it  was  soaked    13  I 

After 12    4 

Boiled 13    4 

Grimmed  for  table 10  12 

Give  it  plenty  of  water-room,  and  put  it  in  while  the  water 
is  colc[ ;  let  it  heat  very  gradually,  and  let  it  be  on  the  fire  an 
hour  and  a  half  before  it  comes  to  a  boil ;  let  it  be  well 
skimmed,  and  keep  it  simmering  very  gently :  a  middling- 
sized  ham  of  fifteen  pounds  will  be  done  enough  in  about 
four  or  five  hours,  according  to  its  thickness. 

•If  not  to  be  cut  till  cold,  it  will  cut  the  shorter  and  tenderer 
for  being  boiled  about  half  an  hour  longer.  In  a  very  small 
family,  where  a  ham  will  last  a  week  or  ten  days,  it  is  best 
economy  not  to  cut  it  till  it  is  cold,  it  will  be  infinitely  more 
juicy. 

Pull  off  the  skin  carefully,  and  preserve  it  as  whole  as  pos- 
sible ;  it  will  form  an  excellent  covering  to  keep  the  ham 


BOILING.  119 

moist ;  when  you  have  removed  the  skin,  rub  some  bread 
raspings  through  a  hair-sieve,  or  grate  a  crust  of  bread ;  put 
it  into  the  perforated  cover  of  the  dredging-box,  and  shake 
it  over  it,  or  glaze  it ;  trim  the  knuckle  with  a  fringe  of  cut 
writing-paper.  You  may  garnish  with  spinage  or  tur- 
nips, &c. 

Obs.  To  pot  ham  (No.  509),  is  a  much  more  useful  and 
economical  way  of  disposing  of  the  remains  of  the  joint, 
than  making  essence  of  it  (No.  352).  To  make  soup  of  the 
liquor  it  is  boiled  in,  see  N.B.  to  No.  555. 

Tongue.— (No.  15.) 

A  tongue  is  so  hard,  whether  prepared  by  drying  or  pick- 
ling, that  it  requires  much  more  cooking  than  a  ham ;  nothing 
of  its  weight  takes  so  long  to  dress  it  properly. 

A  tongue  that  has  been  salted  and  dried  should  be  put  to 
soak  (if  it  is  old  and  very  hard,  24  hours  before  it  is  wanted) 
in  plenty  of  water;  a  green  one  fresh  from  the  pickle  re- 
quires soaking  only  a  few  hours :  put  your  tongue  into  plenty 
of  cold  water ;  let  it  be  an  hour  gradually  warming ;  and 
give  it  from  three  and  a  half  to  four  hours'  very  slow  sim- 
mering, according  to  the  size,  &c. 

Obs.  When  you  choose  a  tongue,  endeavour  to  learn  how 
long  it  has  been  dried  or  pickled,  pick  out  the  plumpest,  and 
that  which  has  the  smoothest  skin,  which  denotes  its  being- 
young  and  tender. 

The  roots,  &c.  make  an  excellent  relish  potted,  like  No. 
509,  or  pease  soup  (No.  218). 

N.B.  Our  correspondent,  who  wished  us,  in  this  edition, 
to  give  a  receipt  to  roast  a  tongue,  will  find  an  answer  in 
No.  82. 

Turkeys,  Capons,  Fowls,  Chickens,  fyc. — (No.  16.) 

Are  all  boiled  exactly  in  the  same  manner,  only  allowing 
time,  according  to  their  size.  For  the  stuffing,  &c.  (Nos. 
374,  375,  and  377),  some  of  it  made  into  balls,  and  boiled  or 
fried,  make  a  nice  garnish,  and  are  handy  to  help ;  and  you 
can  then  reserve  some  of  the  inside  stuffing  to  eat  with  the 
cold  fowl,  or  enrich  the  hash  (Nos.  530  and  533). 

A  chicken  will  take  about 20  minutes. 

A  fowl 40 

A  fine  five-toed  fowl  or  a  capon,  about  an  hour. 

A  small  turkey,  an  hour  and  a  half. 

A  large  one,  two  hours  or  more. 


t  BOILING. 

Chickens  or  fowls  should  be  killed  at  least  one  or  two  days 
before  they  are  to  be  dressed. 

Turkeys  (especially  large  ones)  should  not  be  dressed  till 
they  have  been  killed  three  or  four  days  at  least,  in  cold 
weather  six  or  eight,  or  they  will  neither  look  white  nor  eat 
tender.* 

Turkeys,  and  large  fowls,  should  have  the  strings  or  sinews 
of  the  thighs  drawn  out. 

Truss  them  with  the  legs  outward,  they  are  much  easier 
carved. 

Fowls  for  boiling  should  be  chosen  as  white  as  possible ; 
if  their  complexion  is  not  so  fair  as  you  wish,  veil  them  in 
No.  2  of  No.  361 ;  those  which  have  black  legs  should  be 
roasted.  The  best  use  of  the  liver  is  to  make  sauce  (No. 
387). 

Poultry  must  be  well  washed  in  warm  water ;  if  very 
dirty  from  the  singeing,  &c.  rub  them  with  a  little  white 
soap ;  but  thoroughly  rinse  it  off,  before  you  put  them  into 
the  pot. 

Make  a  good  and  clear  fire ;  set  on  a  clean  pot,  with  pure 
and  clean  water,  enough  to  well  cover  the  turkey,  &c. ;  the 
slower  it  boils,  the  whiter  and  plumper  it  will  be.  When 
there  rises  any  scum,  remove  it ;  the  common  method  of 
.some  (who  are  more  nice  than  wise)  is  to  wrap  them  up  in 
a  clotn,  to  prevent  the  scum  attaching  to  them ;  which,  if 
it  does,  by  your  neglecting  to  skim  the  pot,  there  is  no  get- 
ting it  off  afterward,  and  the  poulterer  is  blamed  for  the 
fault  of  the  cook. 

If  there  be  water  enough,  and  it  is  attentively  skimmed, 
the  fowl  will  both  look  and  eat  much  better  this  way  than 
when  it  has  been  covered  up  in  the  cleanest  cloth,  and  the 
colour  and  flavour  of  your  poultry  will  be  preserved  in  the 
most  delicate  perfection. 

Obs.  Turkey  deserves  to  be  accompanied  by  tongue  (No. 
15),  or  ham  (No.  14) ;  if  these  are  not  come-at-able,  don't 
forget  pickled  pork  (No.  11),  or  bacon  and  greens  (Nos.  83, 
526,  and  527),  or  pork  sausages  (No.  87),  parsley  and  butter 
•f  No.  261) ;  don't  pour  it  over,  but  send  it  up  in  a  boat ;  liver 
•;No.  287),  egg  (No.  267),  or  oyster  sauce  (No.  278).  To 
warm  cold  turkey,  &c.  see  No.  533,  and  following. 

To  grill  the  gizzard  and  rump,  No.  538.    Save  a  quart  of 

*  BAKER,  in  his  Chronicle,  tells  us  ihe  turkey  did  not  reach  England  till  A.  D.  1524, 
about  the  15th  of  Henry  the  8th ;  he  says, 

"  Turkies,  carps,  hoppea,  ptccarell,  and  beere. 
Came  into  England  all  in  one  year/ 


BOILING.  121 

the  liquor  the  turkey  was  boiled  in ;  this,  with  the  bones  and 
trimmings,  &c.  will  make  good  gravy  for  a  hash,  &c. 

Rabbits.— (No.  17.) 

Truss  your  rabbits  short,  lay  them  in  a  basin  of  warm 
water  for  ten  minutes,  then  put  them  into  plenty  of  water, 
and  boil  them  about  half  an  hour ;  if  large  ones,  three 
quarters ;  if  very  old,  an  hour :  smother  them  with  plenty  of 
white  onion  sauce  (No.  298),  mince  the  liver,  and  lay  it 
round  the  dish,  or  make  liver  sauce  (No.  287),  and  send  it 
up  in  a  boat. 

Obs.  Ask  those  you  are  going  to  make  liver  sauce  for,  if 
they  like  plain  liver  sauce,  or  liver  and  parsley,  or  liver  and 
lemon  sauce  (Nos.  287  and  288). 

N.B.  It  will  save  much  trouble  to  the  carver,  if  the  rabbits 
be  cut  up  in  the  kitchen  into  pieces  fit  to  help  at  table,  and 
the  head  divided,  one-half  laid  at  each  end,  and  slices  of 
lemon  and  the  liver,  chopped  very  finely,  laid  on  the  sides  of 
the  dish. 

*At  all  events,  cut  off  the  head  before  you  send  it  to  table, 
we  hardly  remember  that  the  thing  ever  lived  if  we  don't  see 
the  head,  while  it  may  excite  ugly  ideas  to  see  it  cut  up  in 
an  attitude  imitative  of  life ;  besides,  for  the  preservation  of 
the  head,  the  poor  animal  sometimes  suffers  a  slower  death, 

Tripe.— (No.  18.) 

Take  care  to  have  fresh  tripe ;  cleanse  it  well  from  the  fat. 
and  cut  it  into  pieces  about  two  inches  broad  and  four  long ; 
put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  and  cover  it  with  milk  and  water,  and 
let  it  boil  gently  till  it  is  tender. 

If  the  tripe  has  been  prepared  as  it  usually  is  at  the  tripe 
shops,  it  will  be  enough  in  about  an  hour,  (this  depends  upon 
hoAv  long  it  has  been  previously  boiled  at  the  tripe  shop) ;  if 
entirely  undressed,  it  will  require  two  or  three  hours,  accord- 
ing to  the  age  and  quality  of  it. 

Make  some  onion  sauce  in  the  same  manner  as  you  do  for 
rabbits  (No.  298),  or  boil  (slowly  by  themselves)  some  Spa- 
nish or  the  whitest  common  onions  you  can  get ;  peel  them 
before  you  boil  them ;  when  they  are  tender,  which  a  mid- 
dling-sized onion  will  be  in  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
drain  them  in  a  hair-sieve,  take  off  the  top  skins  till  they 
look  nice  and  white,  and  put  them  with  the  tripe  into  a  tureen 
or  soup-dish,  and  take  off  the  fat  if  any  floats  on  the  surface. 

Obs.  Rashers  of  bacon  (Nos.  526  and  527),  or  fried  sau- 
sages (No.  87),  are  a  very  good  accompaniment  to  boiled 


122  ROASTING. 

tripe,  cow-heels  (No.  198),  or  calf's  feet,  see  Mr.  Mich/ 
Kelly's  sauce  (No.  311*),  or  parsley  and  butter  (No.  261), 
or  caper  sauce  (No.  274),  with  a  little  vinegar  and  mustard 
added  to  them,  or  salad  mixture  (No.  372  or  453). 

Tripe  holds  the  same  rank  among  solids,  that  water- 
gruel  does  among  soups,  and  the  forme'r  is  desirable  at 
dinner,  when  the  latter  is  welcome  at  supper.  Read  No. 
572. 

Cow-Heel,— (No.  18.*) 

In  the  hands  of  a  skilful  cook,  will  furnish  several  good 
meals ;  when  boiled  tender  (No.  198),  cut  it  into  handsome 
pieces,  egg  and  bread-crumb  tnem,  and  fry  them  a  light  brown ; 
lay  them  round  a  dish,  and  put  in  the  middle  of  it  sliced 
onions  fried,  or  the  accompaniments  ordered  for  tripe.  The 
liquor  they  were  boiled  in  will  make  soups  (No.  229,  240*, 
or  No.  555). 

N.B.  We  give  no  receipts  to  boil  venison,  geese,  ducks, 
pheasants,  woodcocks,  and  peacocks,  &c.  as  our  aim  has 
been  to  make  a  useful  book,  not  a  big  one  (see  No.  82). 


ROASTING. 

N.B. — If  the  time  we  have  allowed  for  roasting  appears  rather  longer  than  what 
is  stated  in  former  works,  we  can  only  say,  we  have  written  from  actual  experiments, 
and  that  the  difference  may  be  accounted  for,  by  common  cooks  generally  being  fond 
of  too  fierce  afire,  and  of  putting  things  too  near  to  it. 

Our  calculations  are  made  for  a  temperature  of  about  fifty  degrees  of  Fahrenheit. 

SLOW  ROASTING  is  as  advantageous  to  the  tenderness  and  flavour  of  meat  as  slow 
boiling,  of  which  every  body  understands  the  importance.  See  the  account  of  Count 
Jlumford's  shoulder  of  mutton. 

The  warmer  the  weather,  and  the  staler  killed  the  meat  is,  the  less  time  it  will  re-< 
quire  to  roa$t  it. 

Meat  that  is  very  fat,  requires  more  time  than  we  have  stated. 

BEEF  is  in  proper  season  throughout  the  whole  year. 

Sirloin  of  Beef.— (No.  19.) 

THE  noble  sirloin*  of  about  fifteen  pounds  (if  much 
thicker,  the  outside  will  be  done  'too  much  before  the  inside 
is  enough),  will  require  to  be  before  the  fire  about  three  and 
a  half  or  four  hours ;  take  care  to  spit  it  evenly,  that  it  may 

*  This  joint  is  said  to  owe  its  name  to  king  Charles  the  Second,  who,  dining  upon 
a  loin  of  beef,  and  being  particularly  pleased  with  it,  asked  the  name  of  tlrc  joint; 
said  for  its  merit  it  should  be  knighted,  and  henceforth  called  Sir-Loin. 


BOASTING.  123 

not  be  heavier  on  one  side  than  the  other ;  put  a  little  clean 
dripping  into  the  dripping-pan,  (tie  a  sheet  of  paper  over  it 
to  preserve  the  fat,*)  baste  it  well  as  soon  as  it  is  put  down, 
and  every  quarter  of  an  hour  all  the  time  it  is  roasting,  till 
the  last  half  hour ;  then  take  off  the  paper,  and  make  some 
gravy  for  it  (No.  326) ;  stir'  the  fire  and  make  it  clear :  to 
brown  and  froth  it,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  it,  baste  it  with 
butter,  and  dredge  it  with  flour ;  let  it  go  a  few  minutes 
longer,  till  the  froth  rises,  take  it  up,  put  it  on  the  dish,  &c. 

Garnish  it  with  hillocks  of  horseradish,  scraped  as  fine  as 
possible  with  a  very  sharp  knife,  (Nos.  458  and  399*).  A 
Yorkshire  pudding  is  an  excellent  accompaniment  (No.  595, 
or  No.  554). 

Obs.  The  inside  of  the  sirloin  must  never  be  cutf  hot,  but 
reserved  entire  for  the  hash,  or  a  mock  hare  (No.  67*).  (For 
various  ways  of  dressing  the  inside  of  the  sirloin,  No.  483 ; 
for  the  receipt  to  hash  or  broil  beef,  No.  484,  and  Nos.  486 
and  487;  and  for  other  ways  of  employing  the. remains  of  a 
joint  of  cold  beef,  Nos.  503,  4,  5,  6). 

Ribs  of  Beef.— (No.  20). 

The  first  three  ribs,  of  fifteen  or  twenty  pounds,  will  take 
three  hours,  or  three  and  a  half :  the  fourth  and  fifth  ribs  will 
lake  as  long,  managed  in  the  same  way  as  the  sirloin. 

*  "  In  the  present  fashion  of  FATTENING  CATTLK,  it  is  more  desirable  to  roast 
away  the  fat  than  to  preserve  it.  If  the  honourable  societies  of  agriculturists,  at 
the  time  they  consulted  a  learned  professor  about  the  composition  of  manures,  had 
consulted  some  competent  authority  on  the  nature  of  animal  substances,  the  public 
might  have  escaped  the  overgrown  corpulency  of  the  animal  flesh,  which  every 
where  fills'the  markets." — Domestic  Management,  I2mo.  1813,  p.  182. 

"Game,  and  other  wild  animals  proper  for  food,  are  of  very  superior  qualities  "to 
the  tame,  from  the  total  contrast  of  the  circumstances  attending  them.  They  have 
a  free  range  of  exercise  in  the  open  air,  and  choose  their  own  food,  the  good  effects 
of  which  are  very  evident  in  a  short,  delicate  texture  of  flesh,  found  only  in  them. 
Their  juices  and  flavour  are  more  pure,  and  their  fat,  when  it  is  in  any  degree,  as 
iu  venison,  and  some  other  instances,  differs  as  much  from  that  of  our  fatted 
animals,  as  silver  and  gold  from  the  grosser  metals.  The  superiority  of  WELCH 
.MUTTON  and  SCOTCH  BEEF  is  owing  to  a  similar  cause."— Ibid,  p.  150. 

If  there  is  more  FAT  than  you  think  will  be  eaten  with  the  meat;  cut  it  off;  it  will 
make  an  excellent  PUDDING  (No.  554) ;  or  clarify  it,  (No.  84)  and  use  it  fat  frying: 
for  those  who  like  their  meat  done  thoroughly,  and  use  a  moderate  fire  for  roasting, 
the  fat  need  not  be  covered  with  paper. 

If  your  beef  is  large,  and  your  family  small,  cut  off  the  thin  end  and  salt  it,  and 
«  ut  out  and  dress  the  fillet  (i.  e.  commonly  called  the  inside)  next  day  as  MOCK  HARE 
uVo.  67*) :  thus  you  get  three  good  hot  dinners.  See  also  No.  483,  on  made  dishes. 
For  SAUCE  for  cold  beef,  see  No.  359,  cucumber  vinegar,  No.  399,  and  horseradish 
vinegar,  Nos.  399*  and  458. 

f  "  This  joint  is  often  spoiled  for  the  next  day's  use,  by  an  injudicious  mode  of 
carving.  If  you  object  to  the  outside,  take  the  brown  off,  and  help  the  next :  by  the 
cutting  it  only  on  one  side,  you  preserve  the  gravy  in  the  meat,  and  the  goodly  ap- 
pearance also ;  by  cutting  it,  on  the  contrary,  down  the  middle  of  this  joint,  all  the 
gravy  runs  out,  it  becomes  dry,  and  exhibits  a  most  unseemly  aspect  when  brought 
to  table  a  second  time."— From  UDE'S  Cookery,  8vo.  1818,  p.  109. 


]£4  ROASTING. 

Paper  the  fat,  and  the  thin  part,  or  it  will  be  done  too  much,' 
before  the  thick  part  is  done  enough. 

N.B.  A  pig-iron  placed  before  it  on  the  bars  of  the  grate 
answers  every  purpose  of  keeping  the  thin  part  from  being 
loo  much  done. 

Obs.  Many  persons  prefer  the  ribs  to  the  sirloin. 

Ribs  of  Beef  boned  and  rolled.— (No.  21.) 

When  you  have  kept  two  or  three  ribs  of  beef  till  quite 
lender,  take  out  the  bones,  and  skewer  it  as  round  as  possible 
(like  a  fillet  of  veal):  before  they  roll  it,  some  cooks  egg  it. 
and  sprinkle  it  with  veal  stuffing  (No.  374).  As  the  meat  is 
more  in  a  solid  mass,  it  will  require  more  time  at  the  fire  than 
in  the  preceding  receipt ;  a  piece  of  ten  or  twelve  pounds 
weight  will  not  be  well  and  thoroughly  roasted  in  less  than 
four  and  a  half  or  five  hours. 

For  the  first  half  hour,  it  should  not  be  less  than  twelve 
inches  from  the  fire,  that  it  may  get  gradually  warm  to  the 
centre :  the  last  half  hour  before  it  will  be  finished,  sprinkle 
a  little  salt  over  it ;  and  if  you  wish  to  froth  it,  flour  it,  &c. 

MUTTON.*— (No.  23.) 

As  beef  requires  a  large,  sound  fire,  mutton  must  have  a 
brisk  and  sharp  one.  If  you  wish  to  have  mutton  tender,  it 
should  be  hung  almost  as  long  as  it  will  keep  ;j  and  then 

*  DEAN  SWIFT'S  receipt  to  roast  mutton. 
To  GBMINIANI'S  beautiful  air—"  Gently  touch  the  warbling  fyre." 

"  Gently  stir  and  blow  the  fire, 
Lay  the  mutton  down  to  roast, 

Dress  it  quickly,  I  desire, 
In  the  dripping  put  a  toast, 

That  I  hunger  may  remove; — 

Mutton  is  the  meat  I  love. 

41  On  the  dresser  see  it  lie ; 

Oh !  the  charming  white  and  red ! 

Finer  meat  ne'er  met  the  eye, 
On  the  sweetest  grass  it  fed ; 

Let  the  jack  go  swiftly  round, 

Let  me  have  it  nicely  brown'd, 

u  On  the  table  spread  the  cloth, 
Let  the  knives  be  sharp  and  clean, 

Pickles  get  and  salad  both, 
Let  them  each  be  fresh  and  green. 

With  small  beer,  good  ale,  and  wine, 

O,  ye  gods !  how  I  shall  dine !" 

t  See  the  chapter  of  ADVICK  TO  COOKS 


BOASTING.  125 

**ood  eight-tooth,  i.  e.  four  years  old  mutton,  is  as  good  eat- 
ing as  venison,  if  it  is  accompanied  by  Nos.  329  and  346. 

The  leg,  haunch,  and  saddle  will  be  the  better  for  being 
hung  up  in  a  cool  airy  place  for  four  or  five  days  at  least ;  in 
temperate  weather,  a  week ;  in  cold  weather,  ten  days. 

If  you  think  your  mutton  will  not  be  tender  enough  to  do 
honour  to  the  spit,  dress  it  as  a  "gigot  de  sept  heures."  See 
N.B.  to  No.  1  and  No.  493. 

A  Leg,— (No.  24.) 

Of  eight  pounds,  will  take  about  two  hours :  let  it  be  well 
basted,  and  frothed  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  in  No.  19. 
To  hash  mutton,  No.  484.  To  broil  it,  No.  487,  &c. 

~:.'m     A  Chine  or  Saddle,— (No.  26.) 

(i.  e.  the  two  loins)  of  ten  or  eleven  pounds,  two  hours  and 
a  half:  it  is  the  business  of  the  butcher  to  take  off  the  skin 
and  skewer  it  on  again,  to  defend  the  meat  from  extreme 
heat,  and  preserve  its  succulence ;  if  this  is  neglected,  tie  a 
sheet  of  paper  over  it  (baste  the  strings  you  tie  it  on  with 
directly,  or  they  will  burn) :  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before 
you  think  it  will  be  done,  take  off  the  skin  or  paper,  that  it 
may  get  a  pale  brown  colour,  then  baste  it  and  flour  it  lightly 
to  froth  it.  We  like  No.  346  for  sauce. 

N.B.  Desire  the  butcher  to  cut  off  the  flaps  and  the  tail 
and  chump  end,  and  trim  away  every  part  that  has  not  indis- 
putable pretensions  to  be  eaten.  This  will  reduce  a  saddle: 
of  eleven  pounds  weight  to  about  six  or  seven  pounds. 

A  Shoulder,— (No.  27.) 

Of  seven  pounds,  an  hour  and  a  half.  Put  the  spit  in  close 
to  the  shank-bone,  and  run  it  along  the  blade-bone. 

N.B.  The  blade-bone  is  a  favourite  luncheon  or  supper 
relish,  scored,  peppered  and  salted,  and  broiled,  or.  done  in  a 
Dutch  oven. 

A  Loin*— (No. 28.) 

Of  mutton,  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  an  hour  and  three 
quarters.  The  most  elegant  way  of  carving  this,  is  to  cut  it 
lengthwise,  as  you  do  a  saddle  :  read  No.  26. 

*  Common  cooks  very  seldom  brown  the  ends  of  necks  and  loins ;  to  have  this 
done  nicely,  let  the  fire  be  a  few  inches  longer  at  each  end  than  the  joint  that  is 
roasting,  and  occasionally  place  tiie  spit  slanting,  so  that  each  end  may  get  sufficient 
tire ;  otherwise,  after  the  meat  is  done,  you  must  take  it  up,  and  put  the  ends  before 
•ilK  fire. 


BOASTING. 

N.B.  Spit  it  on  a  skewer  or  lark, spit,  and  tie  that  on  the 
common  spit,  and  do  not  spoil  the  meat  by  running  the  spit 
through  the  prime  part  of  it. 

A  JVeefc,— (No.  29.) 

About  the  same  time  as  a  loin.  It  must  be  carefully  jointed, 
or  it  is  very  difficult  to  carve.  The  neck  and  breast  are,  in 
small  families,  commonly  roasted  together;  the  cook  will 
then  crack  the  bones  across  the  middle  before  they  are  put 
down  to  roast:  if  this  is  not  done  carefully,  they  are  very 
troublesome  to  carve.  Tell  the  cook,  when  she  takes  it  from 
the  spit,  to  separate  them  before  she  sends  them  to  table. 

Obs.— If  there  is  more  fat  than  you  think  will  be  eaten  with 
the  lean,  cut  it  off,  and  it  will  make  an  excellent  suet  pud- 
ding (No.  551,  or  No.  554). 

N.B.  The  best  way  to  spit  this  is  to  run  iron  skewers 
across  it,  and  put  the  spit  between  them. 

A  Breast,-~(No.  30.) 

An  hour  and  a  quarter 

To  grill  a  breast  of  mutton,  see  Obs.  to  No.  38. 

A  Haunch,— (No.  31.) 

(i.  e.  the  leg  and  part  of  the  loin)  of  mutton:  send  up  two 
sauce-boats  with  it ;  one  of  rich  mutton  gravy,  made  without 
spice  or  herbs  (No.  347),  and  the  other  of  sweet  sauce  (No. 
346).  It  generally  weighs  about  15  pounds,  and  requires 
about  three  hours  and  a  half  -to  roast  it. 

Mutton,  venison  fashion. — (No.  32.) 

Take  a  neck  of  good  four  or  five  years  old  Southdown 
wether  mutton,  cut  long  in  the  bones ;  let  it  hang  (in  tempe- 
rate weather)  at  least  a  week :  two  days  before  you  dress  it, 
take  allspice  and  black  pepper,  ground  and  pounded  fine,  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  each ;  rub  them  together,  and  then  rub 
your  mutton  well  with  this  mixture  twice  a  day.  When  you 
dress  it,  wash  off  the  spice  with  warm  water,  and  roast  in 
paste,  as  we  have  ordered  the  haunch  of  venison.  (No.  63). 

Obs. — Persevering  and  ingenious  epicures  have  invented 
many  methods  to.give  mutton  the  flavour  of  venison.  Some 
say  that  mutton,  prepared  as  above,  may  be  mistaken  for 
venison ;  others,  that  it  is  full  as  good.  The  refined  palate- 
of  a  grand  gourmand  (in  spite  of  the  spice  and  wine  the  meat 
has  been  fuddled  and  rubbed  with)  will  perhaps  still  protest 


ROASTING.  127 

against  "  Welch  venison ;"  and  indeed  we  do  not  understand 
by  what  conjuration  allspice  and  claret  can  communicate  the 
flavour  of  venison  to  mutton.  We  confess  our  fears  that  the 
flavour  of  venison  (especially  of  its  fat)  is  inimitable;  but 
believe  you  may  procure  prime  eight-toothed  wether  mutton, 
keep  it  the  proper  time,  and  send  it  to  table  with  the  accom- 
paniments (Nos.  346  and  347,  &c.)  usually  given  to  venison, 
and  a  rational  epicure  will  eat  it  with  as  much  satisfaction 
as  he  would  "  feed  on  the  king's  fallow  deer." 

VEAL.— (No.  33.) 

VEAL  requires  particular  care  to  roast  it  a  nice  brown. 
Let  the  fire  be  the  same  as  for  beef;  a  sound  large  fire  for  a 
large  joint,  and  a  brisker  for  a  smaller ;  put  it  at  some  distance 
from  the  fire  to  soak  thoroughly,  and  then  draw  it  near  to 
finish  it  brown. 

When  first  laid  down,  it  is  to  be  basted ;  baste  it  again 
occasionally.  When  the  veal  is  on  the  dish,  pour  over  it  half 
a  pint  of  melted  butter  (No.  256) :  if  you  have  a  little  brown 
gravy  by  you,  add  that  to  the  butter  (No.  326).  With  those 
joints  which  are  not  stuffed,  send  up  forcemeat  (No.  374,  or 
No.  375)  in  balls,  or  rolled  into  sausages,  as  garnish  to  the 
dish,  or  fried  pork  sausages  (No.  87) ;  bacon  (No.  13,  or  No. 
526,  or  No.  527),  and  greens,  are  also  always  expected  with 
veal. 

Fillet  of  Veal,— (No.  34.) 

Of  from  twelve  to  sixteen  pounds,  will  require  from  four 
to  five  hours  at  a  good  fire ;  make  some  stuffing  or  forcemeat 
(No.  374  or  5),  and  put  it  in  under  the  flap,  that  there  may 
be  some  left  to  eat  cold,  or  to  season  a  hash  ;*  brown  it, 
and  pour  good  melted  butter  (No.  266)  over  it,  as  directed 
in  No.  33. 

Garnish  with  thin"  slices  of  lemon  and  cakes  or  balls  of 
stuffing,  or  No.  374,  or  No.  375,  or  duck  stuffing  (No.  61), 
or  fried  pork  sausages  (No.  87),  curry  sauce  (No.  348),  bacon 
(No.  13),  and  greens,  &c. 

N.B.  Potted  veal  (No.  533). 

Obs. — A  bit  of  the  brown  outside  is  a  favourite  with  the 
epicure  in  roasts.  The  kidney,  cut  out,  sliced,  and  broiled 
(No.  358),  is  a  high  relish,  which  some  bom  vivants  are 
fond  of. 

*  To  MINCE  or  HASH  VEAL,  see  No.  511,  or  511*,  and  to  make  a  RAOOUT  of  cold 
real,  No.  512. 


128  ROASTING. 

A  Lorn,—  (No.  35.) 

Is  the  best  part  of  the  calf,  and  will  take  about  three 
hours  roasting.  Paper  the  kidney  fat,  and  the  back  :  some 
cooks  send  it  up  on  a  toast,  which  is  eaten  with  the  kid- 
ney and  the  fat  of  this  part,  which  is  as  delicate  as  any 
marrow.  If  there  is  more  of  it  than  you  think  will  be 
eaten  with  the  veal,  before  you  roast  it  cut  it  out  ;  it  will 
make  an  excellent  suet  pudding  :  take  care  to  have  your 
fire  long  enough  to  brown  the  ends  ;  same  accompaniments 
as  No.  34. 

Jl  Shoulder,—  (No.  36.) 

From  three  hours  to  three  hours  and  a  half;  stuff  it  with 
the  forcemeat  ordered  for  the  fillet  of  veal,  in  the  under  side, 
or  balls  made  of  No.  374. 

Neck,  best  end,—  (No.  37.) 

Will  take  two  hours  ;  same  accompaniments  as  Not  34. 
The  scrag  part  is  best  made  into  a  pie,  or  broth. 


o.  38.) 

From  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours.  Let  the  caul 
remain  till  it  is  almost  done,  then  take  it  off  to  brown  it  ; 
baste,  flour,  and  froth  it. 

06s.  —  This  makes  a  savoury  relish  for  a  luncheon  or 
supper  :  or,  instead  of  roasting,  boil  it  enough  ;  put  it  in  a 
cloth  between  two  pewter  dishes,  Avith  a  weight  on  the  upper 
one,  and  let  it  remain  so  till  cold  ;  then  pare  and  trim,  egg, 
and  crumb  it,  and  broil,  or  warm  it  in  a  Dutch  oven  ;  serve 
with  it  capers  (No.  274),  or  wow  wow  sauce  (No.  328), 
Breast  of  mutton  may  be  dressed  the  same  way. 

Veal  Sweetbread.—  (No.  39.) 

Trim  a  fine  sweetbread  (it  cannot  be  too  fresh)  ;  parboil  it 
for  five  minutes,  and  throw  it  into  a  basin  of  cold  water. 
Roast  it  plain,  or 

Beat  up  the  yelk  of  an  egg,  and  prepare  some  fine  bread- 
crumbs :  when  the  sweetbread  is  cold,  dry  it  thoroughly  in 
a  cloth  ;  run  a  lark-spit  or  a  skewer  through  it,  and  tie  it  on 
the  ordinary  spit  ;  egg  it  with  a  paste-brush  ;  powder  it  well 
with  bread-crumbs,  and  roast  it. 

For  sauce,  fried  bread-crumbs  round  it,  and  melted  butter^ 
with  a  little  mushroom  catchup  (No.  439),  and  lemon- 


ROASTING.  129 

juice  (Nos.  307,  354,  or  356),  or  serve  them  on  buttered 
toast,  garnished  with  egg  sauce  (No.  267),  or  with  gravy 
(No.  329). 

Obs. — Instead  of  spitting  them,  you  may  put  them  into  a 
tin  Dutch  oven,  or  fry  them  (Nos.  88,  89,  or  513). 

LAMB,— (No.  40.) 

Is  a  delicate,  and  commonly  considered  tender  meat ;  but 
those  who  talk  of  tender  lamb,  while  they  are  thinking  of 
the  age  of  the  animal,  forget  that  even  a  chicken  must  be 
kept  a  proper  time  after  it  has  been  killed,  or  it  will  be  tough 
picking.  , 

Woful  experience  has  warned  us  to  beware  of  accepting 
an  invitation  to  dinner  on  Easter  Sunday,  unless  commanded 
by  a  thorough-bred  gourmand;  ouTincisores,molares,  and  prin- 
cipal viscera  have  protested  against  the  imprudence  of 
encountering  young,  tough,  stringy  mutton,  under  the  misno- 
men  of  grass  lamb.  The  proper  name  for  "  Easter  grass 
lamb"  is  "  hay  mutton." 

To  the  usual  accompaniments  of  roasted  meat,  green 
mint  sauce  (No.  303),  a  salad  (Nos.  372  and  138*),  is 
commonly  added ;  and '  some  cooks,  about  five  minutes 
before  it  is  done,  sprinkle  it  with  a  little  fresh  gathered  and 
finely  minced  parsley,  or  No.  318:  lamb,  and  all  young 
meats,  ought  to  be  thoroughly  done;  therefore  do  not 
take  either  lamb  or  veal  off  the  spit  till  you  see  it  drop 
white  gravy. 

Grass  lamb  is  in  season  from  Easter  to  Michaelmas. 

House  lamb  from  Christmas  to  Lady-day. 

Sham  lamb,  see  06s.  to  following  receipt. 

N.B.  When  green  mint  cannot  be  got,  mint  vinegar  (No. 
398)  is  an  acceptable  substitute  for  it ;  and  crisp  parsley 
(No.  318),  on  a  side  plate,  is  an  admirable  accompaniment. 

Hind-Quarter,— (No.  41). 

Of  eight  pounds,  will  take  from  an  hour  and  three-quarters 
to  two  hours :  baste  and  froth  it  in  the  same  way  as-directed 
in  $k>.  19. 

Obs.— A  quarter  of  a  porkling  is  sometimes  skinned,  cut, 
and  dressed  lamb-fashion,  and  sent  up  as  a  substitute  for  it 
The  leg  and  the  loin  of  lamb,  when  little,  should  be  roasted 
together ;  the  former  being  lean,  the  latter  fat,  and  the  gravy 
is  better  preserved. 


130  ROASTING. 

Fore-Quarter,—  (No.  42.) 

Of  ten  pounds,  about  two  hours. 

N.B.  It  is  a  pretty  general  custom,  when  you  take  off  the 
shoulder  from  the  ribs,  to  squeeze  a  Seville  orange  over 
Jhem,  and  sprinkle  them  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt. 

Obs.  —  This  may  as  well  be  done  by  the  cook  before  it 
comes  to  table  ;  some  people  are  not  remarkably  expert  at 
dividing  these  joints  nicely. 

Leg,—  (No.  43.) 
Of  five  pounds,  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half. 

(No.  44.)',   .  "? 


With  a  quick  fire,  an  hour. 
See  Obs.  to  No.  27. 

Ribs,—  (No.  45.) 

About  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  quarter:  joint  it  nicely, 
crack  the  ribs  across,  and  divide  them  from  the  brisket  after 
it  is  roasted. 


w,—  (No.  46.) 
An  hour  and  a  quarter. 

JWcfc,—  (No.  47.) 
An  hour. 

Breasi,—(No.  48.) 
Three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

PORK.~(No.  49.) 

The  prime  season  for  pork  is  from  Michaelmas  to  March. 

Take  particular  care  it  be  done  enough:  other  meats 
under-done  are  unpleasant,  but  pork  is  absolutely  uneatable  ; 
the  sight  of  it  is  enough  to  appal  the  sharpest  appetite,  if  it* 
gravy  has  the  least  tint  of  redness. 

Be  careful  of  the  crackling;  if  this  be  not  crisp,  or  if  it  br 
burned,  you  will  be  scolded.  £  '? 

For  sauces,  No.  300,  No.  304,  and  No.  342. 

Obs.  —  Pease  pudding  (No.  555)  is  as  good  an  accompani- 
ment to  roasted,  as  it  is  to  boiled  pork  ;  and  most  palates  are 
pleased  with  the  savoury  powder  set  down  in  No.  51,  or 


ROASTING.  131 

bread-crumbs,  mixed  with  sage  and  onion,  minced  very  fine, 
or  zest  (No.  255)  sprinkled  over  it. 

N.B.  "  Thetwestern  pigs,  from  Berks,  Oxford,  and  Bucks, 
possess  a  decided  superiority  over  the  eastern,  of  Essex, 
Sussex,  and  Norfolk;  not  to  forget  another  qualification 
of  the  former,  at  which  some  readers  may  smile,  a  thick- 
ness of  the  skin  ;  whence  the  crackling  of  the  roasted  pork 
is  a  fine  gelatinous  substance,  which  may  be  easily  mas- 
ticated; while  the  crackling  of  the  thin-skinned  breeds  is 
roasted  into  good  block  tin,  the  reduction  of  which  would 
almost  require  teeth  of  iron."—  MOUBRAY  on  Poultry,  1816, 
page  242. 


.  50.) 

Of  eight  pounds,  will  require  about  three  hours  :  score  the 
skin  across  in  narrow  stripes  (some  score  it  in  diamonds), 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  apart  ;  stuff  the  knuckle  with  sage 
and  onion,  mineed  fine,  and  a  little  grated  bread,  seasoned 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  the  yelk  of  an  egg.  See  Duck  Stuffing, 
(No.  61.) 

Do  not  put  it  too  near  the  fire  :  rub  a  little  sweet  oil  on 
the  skin  with  a  paste-brush,  or  a  goose-feather  :  this  makes 
the  crackling  crisper  and  browner  than  basting  it  with  drip- 
ping ;  and  it  will  be  a  better  colour  than  all  the  art  of  cookery 
can  make  it  in  any  other  way  ;  and  this  is  the  best  way  of 
preventing  the  skin  from  blistering,  which  is  principally 
occasioned  by  its  being  put  too  near  the  fire. 

Leg  of  Pork  roasted  -without  the  Skin,  commonly  called 
MOCK  GOOSE.*  —  (No.  51.) 

Parboil  it  ;  take  off  the  skin,  and  then  put  it  down  to  roast  ; 
baste  it  with  butter,  and  make  a  savoury  powder  of  finely 
minced,  or  dried  and  powdered  sage,  ground  black  pepper, 
salt,  and  some  bread-crumbs,  rubbed  together  through  a 
colander;  you  may  add  to  this  a  little  very  finely  minced 
onion  :  sprinkle  it  with  this  when  it  is  almost  roasted.  Put 
half  a  pint  of  made  gravy  into  the  dish,  and  goose  stuffing 
(No.  378)  under  the  knuckle  skin  ;  or  garnish  the  dish  with 
balls  of  it  fried  or  boiled. 

*  Priscilla  Haslehurst,  in  her  Housekeeper's  Instructor,  8vo.  Sheffield,  1819,  p. 
19,  gives  us  a  receipt  "  to'goosify  a  shoulder  of  lainb."  "  Un  grand  Cuisinier,"  in- 
formed me  that  "  to  lambify"  the  leg  of  a  porkling  is  a  favourite  metamorphosis  ii> 
die  French  kitchen,  when  house  lamb  is  very  dear. 


132  ROASTING. 

Th$  Gra&w.,— (No.  52.) 

Of  seven  or  eight  pounds,  may  be  dressed  in  the  same 
manner.  It  will  take  an  hour  and  a  half  roasting-. 

A  Bacon  Spare-Rib,— (No.  53.) 

Usually  weighs  about  eight  or  nine  pounds,  and  will  take 
from  two  to  three  hours  to  roast  it  thoroughly ;  not  exactly 
according  to  its  weight,  but  the  thickness  of  the  meat  upon 
it,  which  varies  veiy  much.  Lay  the  thick  end  nearest  to 
ehe  fire. 

A  proper  bald  spare-rib  of  eight  pounds  weight  (so  called 
because  almost  all  the  meat  is  pared  off),  with  a  steady  fire, 
will  be  done  in  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  There  is  so  little 
meat  on  a  bald  spare-rib,  that  if  you  have  a  large,  fierce  fire, 
it  will  be  burned  before  it  is  warm  through.  Joint  it  nicely, 
and  crack  the  ribs  across  as  you  do  ribs  of  lamb. 

When  you  put  it  down  to  roast,  dust  on  some  flour,  and 
baste  it  with  a  little  butter ;  dry  a  dozen  sage  leaves,  and 
rub  them  through  a  hair-sieve,  and  put  them  into  the  top  ot 
a  pepper-box;  and  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  the 
meat  is  done,  baste  it  with  butter ;  dust  the  pulverized  sage, 
or  the  savoury  powder  in  No.  51 ;  or  sprinkle  with  duels 
stuffing  (No.  61). 

06s. — Make  it  a  general  rule  never  to  pour  gravy  over  any 
thing  that  is  roasted ;  by  so  doing,  the  dredging,  &c.  is  washed 
off,  and  it  eats  insipid. 

Some  people  carve  a  spare-rib  by  cutting  out  in  slices  the 
thick  part  at  the  bottom  of  the  bones.  When  this  meat  is 
cut  away,  the  bones  may  be  easily  separated,  and  are  es- 
teemed very  sweet  picking. 

Apple  sauce  (No.  304),  mashed  potatoes  (No.  106),  and 
good  mustard  (No.  370,)  are  indispensable. 

Lorn,— (No.  54.) 

Of  five  pounds,  must  be  kept  at  a  good  distance  from  th^ 
are  on  account  of  the  crackling,  and  will  take  about  two. 
hours ;  if  very  fat,  half  an  hour  longer. 

Stuff  it  with  duck  stuffing  (No.  378).  Score  the  skin  in 
stripes,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  apart,  and  rub  it  with  salad 
oil,  as  directed  in  No.  50.  You  may  sprinkle  over  it  some 
of  the  savoury  powder  recommended  for  the  mock  goost 
(No.  51). 


ROASTING.  133 

A  Chine.— (No.  55.) 

If  parted  down  the  back-bone  so  as  to  have  but  one  side, 
a  good  fire  will  roast  it  in  two  hours ;  if  not  parted,  three 
hours. 

N.B.  Chines  are  generally  salted  and  boiled. 

j3  Sucking-Pig,*~(No.  56.) 

Is  in  prime  order  for  the  spit  when  about  three  weeks  old. 

It  loses  part  of  its  goodness  every  hour  after  it  is  killed ; 
if  not  quite  fresh,  no  art  can  make  the  crackling  crisp. 

To  be  in  perfection,  it  should  be  killed  in  the  morning  to 
be  eaten  at  dinner:  it  requires  very  careful  roasting.  A 
sucking-pig,  like  a  young  child,  must  not  be  left  for  an  instant. 

The  ends  must  have  much  more  fire  than  the  middle :  fov 
this  purpose  is  contrived  an  iron  to  hang  before  the  middle 
part,  called  a  pig-iron.  If  you  have  not  this,  use  a  common 
flat  iron,  or  keep  the  fire  fiercest  at  the  two  ends. 

For  the  stuffing,  take  of  the  crumb  of  a  stale  loaf  about 
five  ounces ;  rub  it  through  a  colander ;  mince  fine  a  handful 
of  sage  (t.  e.  about  two  ounces),  and  a  large  onion  (about 
an  ounce  and  a  halff).  Mix  these  together  with  an  egg» 
some  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  bit  of  butter  as  big  as  an  egg. 
Fill  the  belly  of  the  pig  with  this,  and  sew  it  up :  lay  it  to 
the  fire,  and  baste  it  with  salad  oil  till  it  is  quite  done.  Do 
not  leave  it  a  moment :  it  requires  the  most  vigilant  attend- 
ance. 

Roast  it  at  a  clear,  brisk  fire  at  some  distance.  To  gain 
the  praise  of  epicurean  pig-eaters,  the  crackling  must  be 
nicely  crisped  and  delicately  lightly  browned,  without  being 
either  blistered  or  burnt. 

A  small,  three  weeks  old  pig  will  be  done  enoughj  in  about 
an  hour  and  a  half. 

Before  you  take  it  from  the  fire,  cut  off  the  head,  and  part 
that  and  the  body  down  the  middle :  chop  the  brains  very 
fine,  with  some  boiled  sage  leaves,  and  mix  them  with  good 

*  MONS.  GRIMOD  designates  this  "  Jlnimal  modestc,  ennemi  du  fastet  et  le  roides 
animauz  immondes"  Maitland,  in  p.  758,  of  vol.  ii.  of  lu'3  History  of  London* 
reckons  that  the  number  of  sucking-pigs  consumed  in  the  city  of  London  in  the 
year  1725,  amounted  ro  52,000. 

T  Some  delicately  sensitive  palates  desire  the  cook  to  parboil  the  sage  and  onions 
(before  they  are  cut),  to  soften  and  takeoff  the  rawness  of  their  flavour ;  the  older 
and  drier  the  onion,  the  stronger  will  be  its  flavour ;  and  the  learned  EVELYN  order* 
fliese  to  be  edulcorated  by  gentle  maceration. 

t  An  ancient  culinary  sage  says,  "  When  you  see  a  pig's  eyes  drop  out,  you  may 
&e  satisfied  he  has  had  enough  of  the  fire !"  This  is  no  criterion  that  the  body  or 
the  pig  is  done  enough,  but  arise*  merely  from  the  briskness  of  the  fire  before  th» 
head  of  it. 

M 


134  ROASTING. 

veal  gravy,  made  as  directed  in  No.  193,  or  beef  gravy  (No 
329),  or  what  runs  from  the  pig  when  you  cut  its  head  off. 
Send  up  a  tureenful  of  gravy  (No.  329)  besides.  Currant 
sauce  is  still  a  favourite  with  some  of  the  old  school. 

Lay  your  pig  back  to  back  in  the  dish,  with  one  half  of  the 
head  on  each  side,  and  the  ears  one  at  each  end,  which  you 
must  take  care  to  make  nice  and  crisp;  or  you  will  get 
scolded,  and  deservedly,  a»  the  silly  fellow  was  who  bought 
his  wife  a  pig  with  only  one  ear. 

When  you  cut  off  the  pettitoes,  leave  the  skin  long  round 
the  ends  of  the  legs.  When  you  first  lay  the  pig  before' the 
fire,  rub  it.  all  over  with  fresh  butter  or  salad  oil :  ten  minutes 
after,  and  the  skin  looks  dry ;  dredge  it  well  with  flour  all 
over,  let  it  remain  on  an  hour,  then  rub  it  off  with  a  soft  cloth. 

N.  B.  A  pig  is  a  very  troublesome  subject  to  roast ;  most 
persons  have  them  baked.  Send  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
nutter,  and  beg  the  baker  to  baste  it  well. 

Turkey,  Turkey  Poults,  and  other  Poultry.— (No.  57.) 

A  fowl  and  a  turkey  require  the  same  management  at  the 
iire,  only  the  latter  will  take  longer  time. 

Many  a  Christmas  dinner  has  been  spoiled  by  the  turkey 
having  been  hung  up  in  a  cold  larder,  and  becoming 
thoroughly  frozen ;  Jack  Frost  has  ruined  the  reputation  of 
many  a  turkey-roaster:  therefore,  in  very  cold  weather, 
remember  the  note  in  the  5th  page  of  the  2d  chapter  of  the 
Rudiments  of  Cookery. 

Let  them  be  carefully  picked,  &c.  and  break  the  breast- 
bone (to  make  them  look  plump),  twist  up  a  sheet  of  clean 
writing-paper,  light  it,  and  thoroughly  singe  the  turkey  all 
over,  turning  it  about  over  the  flame. 

Turkeys,  fowls,  and  capons  have  a  much  better  appearance, 
if,  instead  of  trussing  them  with  the  legs  close  together,  and 
the  feet  cut  off,  the  legs  are  extended  on  each  side  of  the  bird, 
and  .the  toes  only  cut  off,,  with  a  skewer  through  each  foot, 
to  keep  them  at  a  proper  distance. 

Be  careful,  when  you  draw  it,  to  preserve  the  liver,  and  not 
to  break  the  gall-bag,  as  no  wrashing  will  take  off  the  bitter 
taste  it  gives,  where  it  once  touches. 

Prepare  a  nice,  clear,  brisk  fire  for  it. 

Make  stuffing  according  to  No.  374,  or  376 ;  stuff  it  under 
the  breast,  where  the  craw  was  taken  out,  and  make  some 
into  balls,  and  boil  or  fry  them,  and  lay  them  round  the  dish ; 
they  are  handy  to  help,  and  you  can  then  reserve  some  of  the 
inside  stuffing  to  eat  with  the  cold  turkey,  or  to  enrich  a 
hash  (No.  533). 


ROASTING.  135 

Score  the  gizzard,  dip  it  into  the  yelk  of  an  egg  or  melted 
butter,  and  sprinkle  it  with  salt  and  a  few  grains  of  Cayenne ; 
put  it  under  one  pinion  and  the  liver  under  the  other ;  cover 
the  liver  with  buttered  paper,  to  prevent  it  from  getting 
hardened  or  burnt. 

When  you  first  put  a  turkey  down  to  roast,  dredge  it  with 
flour ;  then  put  about  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  basting-ladle, 
and  as  it  melts,  baste  the  bird  therewith. 

Keep  it  at  a  distance  from  the  fire  for  the  first  half  hour, 
that  it  may  warm  gradually ;  then  .put  it  nearer,  and  when  it 
is  plumped  up,  and  the  steam  draws  in  towards  the  fire,  it  is 
nearly  enough ;  then  dredge  it  lightly  with  flour,  and  put  a 
bit  of  butter  into  your  basting-ladle,  and  as  it  melts,  baste 
the  turkey  with  it ;  this  will  raise  a  finer  froth  than  can  be 
produced  by  using  the  fat  out  of  the  pan. 

A  very  large  turkey  will  require  about  three  hours  to  roast 
it  thoroughly ;  a  middling-sized  one,  of  eight  or  ten  pounds 
(which  is  far  nicer  eating  than  the  very  large  one),  about 
two  hours ;  a  small  one  may  be  done  in  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Turkey  poults  are  of  various  sizes,  and  will  take  about  an 
hour  and  a  half;  they  should  be  trussed,  with  their  legs 
twisted  under  like  a  duck,  and  the  head  under  the  wing  like 
a  pheasant. 

Fried  pork  sausages  (No.  87)  are  a  very  savoury  and  fa- 
vourite accompaniment  to  either  roasted  or  boiled  poultry* 
A  turkey  thus  garnished  is  called  "  an  alderman  in  chains." 

Sausage-meat  is  sometimes  used  as  stuffing,  instead  of 
the  ordinary  forcemeat.  (No.  376,  &c.) 

MEM.  If  you  wish  a  turkey,  especially  a  very  large  one, 
to  be  tender,  never  dress  it  till  at  least  four  or  five  days  (in 
cold  weather,  eight  or  ten)  after  it  has  been  killed.  "  No 
man  who  understands  good  living  will  say,  on  such  a  day  I 
will  eat  that  turkey ;  but  will  hang  it  up  by  four  of  the  large 
tail-feathers,  and  when,  on  paying  his  morning  visit  to  the 
larder,  he  finds  it  lying  upon  a  cloth  prepared  to  receive  it 
when  it  falls,  that  day  let  it  be  cooked." 

Hen  turkeys  are  preferable  to  cocks  for  whiteness  and 
tenderness,  and  the  small  fleshy  ones  with  black  legs  are 
most  esteemed. 

Send  up  with  them  oyster  (No.  278),  egg  (No.  267),  bread 
(No.  221),  and  plenty  of  gravy  sauce  (No.  329).  To  hash 
turkey,  No.  533. 

MEM.  Some  epicures  are  very  fond  of  the  gizzard  and 
ramp,  peppered  and  salted,  and  broiled.  (See  No.  538,  "  how 
to  dress  a  devil  with  veritable  sauce  tfenfer!!"} 


9  BOASTING. 

Capons  or  Foay/v- (No.  58.) 

Must  be  killed  a  couple  of  days  in  moderate,  and  more  in 
cold  weather,  before  they  are  dressed,  or  they  will  eat  tough : 
a  good  criterion  of  the  ripeness  of  poultry  for  the  spit,  is 
the  ease  with  which  you  can  then  pull  out-  the  feathers ; 
when  a  fowl  is  plucked,  leave  a  few  to  help  you  to  ascertain 
this. 

They  are  managed  exactly  in  the  same  manner,  and  sent 
up  with  the  same  sauces  as  a  turkey,  only  they  require  pro- 
portionably  less  time  at  t"he  fire. 

A  full-grown  five-toed  fowl,  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter. 

A  moderate-sized  one,  an  hour. 

A  chicken,  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes. 

Here,  also,  pork  sausages  fried  (No.  87)  are  in  general  a 
favourite  accompaniment,  or  turkey  stuffing;  see  force- 
meats (Nos.  374,  5,  6,  and  7) ;  put  in  plenty  of  it,  so  as  to 
plump  out  the  fowl,  which  must  be  tied  closely  (both  at  the 
neck  and  rump),  to  keep  in  the  stuffing. 

Some  cooks  put  the  liver  of  the  fowl  into  this  forcemeat, 
and  others  mince  it  and  pound  it,  and  rub  it  up  with  flour  and 
melted  butter  (No.  287). 

When  the  bird  is  stuffed  and  trussed,  score  the  gizzard 
nicely,  dip  it  into  melted  butter,  let  it  drain,  and  then  season 
it  with  Cayenne  and  salt ;  put  it  under  one  pinion,  and  the 
liver  under  the  other ;  to  prevent  their  getting  hardened  or 
scorched,  cover  them  with  double  paper  buttered. 

Take  care  that  your  roasted  poultry  be  well  browned ;  it 
is  as  indispensable  that  roasted  poultry  should  have  a  rich 
brown  complexion,  as  boiled  poultry  should  have  a  delicate 
white  one. 

Obs.  "The  art  of  fattening  poultry  for  the  market  is  a 
considerable  branch  of  rural  economy  in  some  convenient 
situations,  and  consists  in  supplying  them  with  plenty  of 
healthy  food,  and  confining  them;  and  ducks  and  geese 
must  be  prevented  from  going  into  water,  which  prevents 
them  from  becoming  fat,  and  they  also  thereby  acquire  a 
rancid,  fishy  taste.  They  are  put  into  a  dark  place,  and 
crammed  with  a  paste  made  of  barley  meal,  mutton-suet,, 
and  some  treacle  or  coarse  sugar  mixed  with  milk,  and  are 
found  to  be  completely  ripe  in  a  fortnight.  If  kept  longer, 
the  fever  that  is  induced  by  this  continued  state  of  repletion 
renders  them  red  and  unsaleable,  and  frequently  kills  them." 
But  exercise  is  as  indispensable  to  the  health  of  poultry  as 
other  creatures ;  without  it,  the  fat  will  be  all  accumulated  in 
the  cellular  membrane,  instead  of  being  dispersed  through 


ROASTING.  137 

its  system.  See  MOUBRAY  on  breeding  and  fattening  domestic 
Poultry,  12mo.  1819. 

Fowls  which  are  fattened  artificially  are  by  some  epicures 
preferred  to  those  called  barn-door  fowls ;  whom  we  have 
heard  say,  that  they  should  as  soon  think  of  ordering  a  barn- 
door for  dinner  as  a  barn-door  fowl. 

The  age  of  poultry  makes  all  the  difference :  nothing  is 
tenderer  than  a  young  chicken ;  few  things  are  tougher  than 
an  old  cock  or  hen,  which  is  only  fit  to  make  broth.  The 
meridian  of  perfection  of  poultry  is  just  before  they  have 
come  to  their  full  growth,  before  they  have  begun  to  harden. 

For  sauces,  see  No.  305,  or  liver  and  parsley,  No.  287, 
and  those  ordered  in  the  last  receipt.  To  hash  it,  No.  533. 

Goose.— (No.  59.) 

When  a  goose  is  well  picked,  singed,  and  cleaned,  make 
the  stuffing  with  about  two  ounces  of  onion,*  and  half  as 
much  green  sage,  chop  them  very  fine,  adding  four  ounces, 
i.  e.  about  a  large  breakfast-cupful  of  stale  bread-crumbs,  a 
bit  of  butter  about  as  big  as  a  walnut,  and  a  very  little  pep- 
per and  salt  (to  this  some  cooks  add  half  the  liver,  f  par- 
boiling it  first),  the  yelk  of  an  egg  or  two,  and  incorporating 
the  whole  well  together,  stuff  the  goose ;  do  not  quite  fill  it, 

*  If  you  think  the  flavour  of  raw  onions  too  strong,  cut  them  in  slices,  and  lay 
them  in  cold  water  for  a  couple  of  hours,  or  add  as  much  apple  or  potato  as  you 
have  of  onion. 

f  Although  the  whole  is  rather  too  luscious  for  the  lingual  nerves  of  the  good 
folks  of  Great  Britain,  the  livers  of  poultry  are  considered  a  very  high  relish  by  out 
continental  neighbours ;  and  the  following  directions  how  to  procure  them  in  per- 
fection, we  copy  from  the  recipe  of  "  un  Yieil  Amateur  de  Bonne  Chire." 

"  The  liver  of  a  duck,  or  a  goose,  which  has  submitted  to  the  rules  and  orders  that 
men  of  taste  have  invented  for  the  amusement  of  his  sebaceous  glands,  is  a  super- 
lative exquisite  to  the  palate  of  a  Parisian  epicure ;  but,  alas !  the  poor  goose,  to 
produce  this  darling  dainty,  must  endure  sad  torments.  He  must  be  crammed  with 
meat,  deprived  of  drink,  and  kept  constantly  before  a  hot  fire :  a  miserable  martyr 
dom  indeed !  and  would  be  truly  intolerable  if  his  reflections  on  the  consequences 
of  his  sufferings  did  not  afford  him  some  consolation ;  but  the  glorious  prospect  of 
the  delightful  growth  of  his  liver  gives  him  couraee  and  support ;  and  when  ht> 
thinks  how  speedily  it  will  become  almost  as  big  as  his  body,  how  high  it  will  rank 
on  the  list  of  double  relishes,  and  with  what  ecstasies  it  will  be  eaten  by  the  fanciers 
:l  des  Foies  grasS '  he  submits  to  his  destiny  without  a  sigh.  The  famous  Strasburg 
pies  are  made  with  livers  thus  prepared,  and  sell  for  an  enormous  price." 

However  incredible  tbis  ordonnance  for  the  obesitation  of  a  goose's  liver  may  ap- 
pear at  first  sight,  will  it  not  seem  equally  so  to  after-ages,  that  in  this  enlightened 
country,  in  1821,  we  encouraged  a  folly  as  much  greater,  as  its  operation  was  more 
universal  ?  Will  it  be  believed,  that  it  was  then  considered  the  acme  of  perfection 
in  beef  and  mutton,  that  it  should  be  so  over-fattened,  that  a  poor  man,  to  obtain  one 
pound  of  meat  that  he  could  eat,  must  purchase  another  which  he  could  not,  unless 
converted  into  a  suet  pudding :  moreover,  that  the  highest  premiums  were  annually 
awarded  to  those  who  produced  sheep  and  oxen  in  the  moat  extreme  state  of  morbid, 

•tatty?// 

"  expensive  plans 

For  deluging  of  dripping-pans." 

MS 


138  ROASTIKG. 

but  leave  a  little  room  for  the  stuffing  to  swell ;  spit  it,  tie 
it  on  the  spit  at  both  ends,  to  prevent  its  swinging  round,  and 
to  keep  the  stuffing  from  coming  out.  From  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  an  hour  and  three-quarters,  will  roast  a  fine  full- 
grown  goose.  Send  up  gravy  and  apple  sauce  with  it  (see 
Nos.  300,  304,  329,  and  341).  To  hash  it,  see  No.  530. 

For  another  stuffing  for  geese,  see  No.  378. 

Obs.  "  Goose-feeding  in  the  vicinity  of  the  metropolis  is 
so  large  a  concern,  that  one  person  annually  feeds  for  market 
upwards  of  5000."  "  A  goose  on  a  farm  in  Scotland,  two 
years  since,  of  the  clearly  ascertained  age  of  89  years, 
healthy  and  vigorous,  was  killed  by  a  sow  while  sitting  over 
her  eggs ;  it  was  supposed  she  might  have  lived  many  years, 
and  her  fecundity  appeared  to  be  permanent.  Other  geese- 
have  been  proved  to  reach  the  age  of  70  years."  MOUBRAY 
on  Poultry,  p.  40. 

It  appears  in  Dr.  STARK'S  Experiments  on  Diet,  p.  110, 
tljat  "  when  he  fed  upon  roasted  goose,  he  was  more  vigor- 
ous both  in  body  and  mind  than  with  any  other  diet." 

The  goose  at  Michaelmas  is  as  famous  in  the  mouths  of 
the  million,  as  the  minced-pie  at  Christmas ;  but  for  those 
who  eat  with  delicacy,  it  is  by  that  time  too  full-grown. 

The  true  period  when  the  goose  is  in  its  highest  perfec- 
tion, is  when  it  has  just  acquired  its  full  growth,  and  not 
begun  to  harden.  If  the  March  goose  is  insipid,  the  Michael- 
mas goose  is  rank ;  the  fine  time  is  between  both,  from  the 
second  week  in  June  to  the  first  in  September :  the  leg  is 
not  the  most  tender  part  of  a  goose.  See  Mock  Goose 
(No.  51). 

Green  Goose. — (No.  60.) 

Geese  are  called  green  till  they  are  about  four  months  old. 

The  only  difference  between  roasting  these  and  a  full- 
grown  goose,  consists  in  seasoning  it  with  pepper  and  salt 
instead  of  sage  and  onion,  and  roasting  it  for  forty  or  fifty 
minutes  only. 

06s.  This  is  one  of  the  least  desirable  of  those  insipid 
premature  productions,  which  are  esteemed  dainties. 

Duck.— (No.  61.) 

Mind  your  duck  is  well  cleaned,  and  wiped  out  with  a  clean 
cloth :  for  the  stuffing,  take  an  ounce  of  onion  and  half  an 
ounce  of  green  sage ;  chop  them  very  fine,  and  mix  them 
with  two  ounces,  i.  e.  about  a  breakfast-cupful,  of  bread- 
crumbs, a  bit  of  butter  about  as  big  as  a  walnut,  a  very  little 


BOASTING.  139 

black  pepper  and  salt,  (some  obtuse  palates  may  require 
warming  with  a  little  Cayenne,  No.  404,)  and  the  yelk  of  an 
egg  to  bind  it ;  mix  these  thoroughly  together,  and  put  into 
the  duck.  For  another  stuffing,  see  No.  378.  From  half  to 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  will  be  enough  to  roast  it,  accord-^ 
ing  to  the  size :  contrive  to  have  the  feet  delicately  crisp,  as 
some  people  ar&  very  fond  of  them ;  to  So  this  nicely  you 
must  have  a  sharp  fire.  For  sauce,  green  pease  (No.  134), 
bonne  bouche  (No.  341),  gravy  sauce  (No.  329),  and  sage 
and  onion  sauce  (No.  300). 

To  hash  or  stew  ducks,  see  No.  530. 

N.B.  If  you  think  the  raw- onion  will  make  too  strong 
an  impression  upon  the  palate,  parboil  it.  Read  Obs.  to 
No.  59.  i 

To  ensure  ducks  being  tender,  in  moderate  weather  :kill 
them  a  few  days  before  you  dress  them. 

Haunch  of  Venison. — (No.  63.) 

To  preserve  the  fat,  make  a  paste  of  flour  and  water,  as 
much  as  will  cover  the  haunch ;  wipe-  it  with  a  dry  cloth  in 
every  part ;  rub  a  large  sheet  of  paper  all  over  with  butter, 
and  cover  the  venison  with  it ;  then  roll  out  the  paste  about 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick ;  lay  this  all  over  the  fat  side, 
and  cover  it  well  with  three '  or  four  sheets  of  strong  white 
paper,  arid  tie  it  securely  on  with  packthread :  have  a  strong, 
close  fire,  and  baste  your  venison  as  soon  as  you  lay  it  down 
to  roast  (to  prevent  the  paper  and  string  from  burning) ;  it 
must  be  well  basted  all  the  time. 

A  buck  haunch  generally  weighs  from  20  to  25  pounds ;  will 
take  about  four  hours  and  a  half  roasting  in  warm,  and  longer 
in  cold  weather :  a  haunch  of  from  19  to  18  pounds  will  be 
done  in  about  three  or  three  and  a  half. 

A  quarter  of  an  hour  before  it  is  done,  the  string  must  be 
cut,  and  the  paste  carefully  taken  off;  now  baste  it  with 
butter,  dredge  it  lightly  with  flour,  and  when  the  froth  rises, 
and  it  has  got  a  very  light  brown  colour,  garnish  the  knuckle- 
bone with  a  ruffle  of  cut  writing-paper,  and  send  it  up,  with 
good,  strong  (but  unseasoned)  gravy  (No.  347)  in  one  boat, 
and  currant-jelly  sauce  in  the  other,  or  currant-jelly  in  a  side 
plate  (not  melted) :  see  for  sauces,  Nos.  344,  5,  6,  and  7. 
MEM.  "  the  alderman's  walk"  is  the  favourite  part. 

Obs.  Buck  venison  is  in  greatest  perfection  from  midsum- 
mer to  Michaelmas,  and  doe  from  November  to  January. 


140  BOASTING. 

Neck  and  Shoulder  of  Venison,— (No.  64.) 

Are  to  be  managed  in  the  same  way  as  the  haunch ;  only 
they  do  not  require  the  coat  or  paste,  and  will  not  take  so 
much  time. 

The  best  way  to  spit  a  neck  is  to  put  three  skewers  through 
it,  and  put  the  spit'between  the  skewers  and  the  bones. 

A  Fawn,— (No.  65.) 

Like  a  sucking-pig,  should  be  dressed  almost  as  soon  as 
killed.  When  very  young,  it  is  trussed,  stuffed,  and  spitted 
the  same  way  as  a  hare :  but'  they  are  better  eating  when  of 
the  size  of  a  house  lamb,  and  are  then  roasted  in  quarters ; 
the  hind-quarter  is  most  esteemed. 

They  must  be  put  down  to  a  very  quick  fire,  and  either 
basted  all  the  time  they  are  roasting,  or  be  covered  with 
sheets  of  fat  bacon ;  when  done,  baste  it  with  butter,  and 
dredge  it  with  a  little  salt  and  flour,  till  you  make  a  nice  froth 
on  it. 

N.B.  We  advise  our  friends  to  half  roast  a  fawn  as  soon 
as  they  receive  it,  and  then  make  a  hash  of  it  like  No.  528. 

Send  up  venison  sauce  with  it.  See  the  preceding  receipt, 
or  No.  344,  &c. 


A  Kid.— (No.  65*.) 

A  young  sucking-kid  is  very  good  eating ;  to  have  it  in 
prime*  condition,  the  dam  should  be  kept  up,  and  well  fed,  &c. 
Roast  it  like  a  fawn  or  hare. 

Hare.— (No.  66.) 

"  Inter  quadrupedes  gloria  prima  lepus." — MARTIAL. 

The  first  points  of  consideration  are,  how  old  is  the  hare  ? 
and  how  long  has  it  been  killed  1  When  young,  it  is  easy 
of  digestion,  and  very  nourishing ;  when  old,  the  contrary  in 
every  respect. 

To  ascertain  the  age,  examine  the  first  joint  of  the  forefoot; 
you  will  find  a  small  knob,  if  it  is  a  leveret,  which  disappears 
as  it  grows  older;  then  examine  the  ears,  if  they  tear  easily, 
it  will  eat  tender;  if  they  are  tough,  so  .will  be  the  hare, 
which  we  advise  you  to  make  into  soup  (No.  241),  or  stew  or 
jug  it  (No.  523). 

When  newly  killed,  the  body  is  stiff;  as  it  grows  stale,  it 
becomes  limp. 

As  soon  as  you  receive  a  hare,  take  out  the  liver,  parboil 


BOASTING.  141 

it,  and  keep  it  for  the  stuffing;  some  are  very  fond  of  it.  Do 
not  use  it  if  it  be  not  quite  fresh  and  good.  Some  mince  it, 
and  send  it  up  as  a  garnish  in  little  hillocks  round  the  dish, 
Wipe  the  hare  quite  dry,  rub  the  inside  with  pepper,  and  hang 
it  up  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

Paunch  and  skin*  your  hare,  wash  it,  and  lay  it  in  a  large 
pan  of  cold  water  four  or  five  hours,  changing  the  water  two 
or  three  times ;  lay  it  in  a  clean  cloth,  and  dry  it  well,  then 
truss  it. 

To  make  the  stuffing,  see  No.  379.  .Do  not  make  it  too 
thin ;  it  should  be  of  cohesive  consistence :  if  it  is  not  suf- 
ficiently stiff,  it  is  good  for  nothing.  Put  this  into  the  belly, 
and  sew  it  up  tight. 

Cut  the  neck-skin  to  let  the  blood  out,  or  it  will  never 
appear  to  be  done  enough ;  spit  it,  and  baste  it  with  drip- 
pings,! (or  the  juices  of  the  back  will  be  dried  up  before  the 
upper  joints  of  the  legs  are  half  done,)  till  you  think  it  is 
nearly  done,  which  a  middling-sized  hare  will  be  in  about  an 
hour  and  a  quarter.  When  it  is  almost  roasted  enough,  put 
a  little  bit  of  butter  into  your  basting-ladle,  and  baste  it  with 
this,  and  flour  it,  and  froth  it  nicely. 

Serve  it  with  good  gravy  (No.  329,  or  No.  347),  and  currant- 
jelly.  For  another  stuffing,  see  receipt  No.  379.  Some  cooks 
cut  off  the  head  and  divide  it,  and  lay  one  half  on  each  side 
the  hare. 

Cold  roast  hare  will  make  excellent  soup  (No.  241). 
chopped  to  pieces,  and  stewed  in  three  quarts  of  water  for  a 
couple  of  hours ;  the  stuffing  will  be  a  very  agreeable  substi- 
tute for  sweet  herbs  and  seasoning.  See  receipt  for  hare 
soup  (No.  241),  hashed  hare  (No.  529),  and  mock  hare,  next 
receipt. 

Mock  Hare.— (No.  66.*) 

Cut  out  the  fillet  (i.  e.  the  inside  lean)  of  a  sirloin  of  beef, 
leaving  the  fat  to  roast  with  the  joint.  Prepare  some  nice 
stuffing,  as  directed  for  a  hare  in  .No.  66,  or  379 ;  put  this  on 
the  beef,  and  roll  it  up  with  tape,  put  a  skewer  through  it. 
and  tie  that  on  a  spit. 

*  This,  in  culinary  technicals,  is  called  casing  it,  upon  the  same  principle  that 
•eating,  drinking,  and  sleeping,"  are  termed  non-naturals. 

t  Mrs.  Charlotte  Mason,  in  her  "  Complete  System  of  Cookery,"  page  283,  says, 
she  has  "  tried  all  the  different  things  recommended  to  baste  a  hare  with,  and  never 
found  any  thing  so  good  as  small  beer;"  others  order  milk;  drippings  we  believe  is 
better  than  any  thing.  To  roast  a  hare  nicely,  so  as  to  preserve  the  meat  on  the 
hack,  &c.  juicy  and  nutritive,  requires  as  much  attention  as  a  sucking-pig. 

Instead  of  washing,  a  "  grand  Cummer"  says,  it  is  much  better  to  wipe  a  hare 
with  a  thin,  dry  cloth,  as  so  much  washing,  or  indeed  washing  at  air,  takes-  away 
tfie  flavour. 


142  ROASTING. 

Obs.  If  the  beef  is  of  prime  quality,  has  been  kept  till  tho- 
roughly tender,  and  you  serve  with  it  the  accompaniments 
that  usually  attend  roast  hare  (Nos.  329,  344,  &c.),  or  stew  it, 
and  serve  it  with  a  rich  thickened  sauce  garnished  with  force- 
meat balls  (No.  379),  the  most  fastidious  palate  will  have  no 
reason  to  regret  that  the  game  season  is  over. 

To  make  this  into  hare  soup,  see  No.  241. 

Rabbit.— (No.  67.) 

Tf  your  fire  is  clear  and  sharp,  thirty  minutes  will  roast  a 
young,  and  forty  a  full-grown  rabbit. 

When  you  lay  it  down,  baste  it  with  butter,  and  dredge  it 
lightly  and  carefully  with  flour,  that  you  may  have  it  frothy, 
and  of  a  fine  light  brown.  While  the  rabbit  is  roasting,  boil 
its  liver*  with  some  parsley ;  when  tender,  chop  them  toge- 
ther, and  put  half  the  mixture  into  some  melted  butter, 
reserving  the  other  half  for  garnish,  divided  into  little  hillocks. 
Cat  off  the  head,  and  lay  half  on  each  side  of  the  dish. 

O65.  A  fine,  well-grown  (but  young)  warren  rabbit,  kept 
some  time  after  it  has  been  killed,  and  roasted  with  a  stuffing 
in  its  belly,  eats  very  like  a  hare,  to  the  nature  of  which  it 
approaches.  It  is  nice,  nourishing  food  when  young,  but  hard 
and  unwholesome  when  old.  For  sauces,  Nos.  287,  298, 
und  329. 

Pheasant.— (No.  68.) 

Requires  a  smart  fire,  but  not  a  fierce  one.  Thirty  minutes 
will  roast  a  young  bird,  and  forty  or  fifty  a  full-grown  phea- 
sant. Pick  and  draw  it,  cut  a  slit  in  the  back  of  the  neck, 
and  take  out  the  craw,  but  don't  cut  the  head  off;  wipe  the 
inside  of  the  bird  with  a  clean  cloth,  twist  the  legs  close  to 
the  body,  leave  the  feet  on,  but  cut  the  toes  off;  don't  turn 
the  head  under  the  wing,  but  truss  it  like  a"  fowl,  it  is  much 
easier  to  carve;  baste  it,  butter  .and  froth  it,  and  prepare 
sauce  for  it  (Nos.  321  and  329).  See  the  instructions  in 
receipts  to  roast  fowls  and,  turkeys,  Nos.  57  and  58. 

Obs.  We  believe  the  rarity  of  this  bird  is  its  best  recom- 
mendation; and  the  character  given  it  by  an  ingenious  French 
author  is  just  as  good  as  it  deserves.  "  Its  flesh  is  naturally 
tough,  and  owes  all  its  tenderness  and  succulence  to  the  long 
time  it  is  kept  before  it  is  cooked ;"  until  it  is  "  bien  mortifite, 
it  is  uneatable. f  Therefore,  instead  of  "  sus  per  col,"  suspend 

*  Liver  sauce,  Nos.  287  and  288. 

T  "  They  are  only  fit  to  be  eaten  when  the  blood  runs  from  the  bill,  which  is  com*- 
monly  about  6  or  7  days  after  they  have  been  killed,  otherwise  it  will  have  no  more 
savour  than  a  common  fowl."—  Ude's  Cookery,  8vo.  1819,  page  210. 


ROASTING.  143 

it  by  one  of  the  long  tail-feathers,. and  the  pheasant's  falling 
from  it  is  the  criterion  of  its  ripeness  and  readiness  for  the 
spit. 

Our  president  of  the  committee  of  taste  (who  is  inde- 
fatigable in  his  endeavours  to  improve  the  health,  as  well  as 
promote  the  enjoyment,  of  his  fellow-students  in  the  school 
of  good  living,  and  to  whom  the  epicure,  the  economist,  and 
the  valetudinarian  are  equally  indebted  for  his  careful  re- 
vision of  this  work,  and  especially  for  introducing  that  salu- 
tary maxim  into  the  kitchen,  that  "  the  salubrious  is  ever  a 
superior  consideration  to  the  savoury,"  and  indeed,  the 
rational  epicure  only  relishes  the  latter  when  entirely  subor- 
dinate to  the  former),  has  suggested  to  us,  that  the  detach- 
ment of  the  feather  cannot  take  place  until  the  body  of  the 
bird  has  advanced  more  than  one  degree  beyond  the  state  of 
wholesome  haut-gout,  and  become  "  trop  mortifite ;"  and  that 
to  enjoy  this  game  in  perfection,  you  must  have  a  brace  of 
birds  killed  the  same  day;  these  are  to  be  put  in  suspense 
as  above  directed,  and  when  one  of  them  drops,  the  hour  is 
come  that  the  spit  should  be  introduced  to  his  companion : — 

"  Ultra  citraque  nequit  consistere  rectum.* 

Mock  Pheasant.— -(No.  69.) 

If  you  have  only  one  pheasant,  and  wish  for  a  companion 
for  it,  get  a  fine  young  fowl,  of  as  near  as  may  be  the  same 
size  as  the  bird  to  be  matched,  and  make  game  of  it  by  truss- 
ing it  like  a  pheasant,  and  dressing  it  according  to  the  above 
directions.  Few  persons  will  discover  the  pheasant  from  the 
fowl,  especially  if  the  latter  has  been  kept  four  or  five  days. 

The  peculiar  flavour  of  the  pheasant  (like  that  of  other 
game)  is  principally  acquired  by  long  keeping. 

Guinea  and  Pea  Fowls,— (No.  69*.)  , 
Are  dressed  in  the  same  way  as  pheasants. 

Partridges,— (No.  70.) 

Are  cleaned  and  trussed  in  the  same  manner  as  a  pheasant 
(but  the  ridiculous  custom  of  tucking  the  legs  into  each 

"  Gastronomers,  who  have  any  sort  of  aversion  to  a  peculiar  taste  in  game,  properly 
fcept,  had  better  abstain  from  this  bird,  since  it  is  worse  than  a  common  fowl,  if  not 
waited  for  till  it  acquires  tlaefumet  it  ought  to  have.  Whole  republics  of  maggots 
have  often  been  found  rioting  under  the  wings  of  pheasants  ;  but  being  radically 
dispersed,  and  the  birds  properly  washed  with  vinegar,  every  thing  went  right,  and 
overy  guest,  unconscious  of  the  culinary  ablutions,  enjoyed  the  excellent  flavour  of 
UwPhasian  birds."—  Tabella  Cibaria^  p.  55. 


144  ROASTING. 

other  makes  them  very  troublesome  to  carve) ;  the  breast  i* 
so  plump,  it  will  require  almost  as  much  roasting ;  send  up 
with  them  rich  sauce  (No.  321*),  or  bread  sauce  (No.  321), 
and  good  gravy  (No.  329). 

\*  If  you  wish  to  preserve  them  longer  than  you  think 
they  will  keep  good  undressed,  half  roast  them,  they  will 
then  keep  two  or  three  days  longer ;  or  make  a  pie  of  them. 

Black  Cock  (No.  71),  Moor  Game  (No.  72),  and  Grouse, 
(No.  73.) 

Are  all  to  be  dressed  like  partridges ;  the  black  cock  will 
take  as  much  as  a  pheasant,  and  moor  game  and  grouse  as 
the  partridge.  .Send  up  with  them  currant-jelly  and  fried 
bread-crumbs  (No.  320). 

Wild  Ducks.— (No.  74.) 

For  roasting  a  wild  duck,  you  must  have  a  clear,  brisk  fire, 
and  a  hot  spit ;  it  mus't  be  browned  upon  the  outside,  without 
being  sodden  within.  To  have  it  well  frothed  and  full  of 
gravy  is  the  nicety.  Prepare  the  fire  by  stirring  and  raking 
it  just  before  the  bird  is  laid  down,  and  fifteen  or  twenty- 
minutes  will  do  it  in  the  fashionable  way ;  but  if  you  like  it 
a  little  more  done,  allow  it  a  few  minutes  longer ;  if  it  is  too 
much,  it  will  lose  its  flavour. 

For  the  sauce,  see  No.  338  and  No.  62. 

Widgeons  and  Teal,— (No.  75.) 

Are  dressed  exactly  as  the  wild  duck ;  only  that  less  time 
is  requisite  for  a  widgeon,  and  still  less  for  a  teal. 

Woodcock.— (No.  76.) 

Woodcocks  should  not  be  drawn,  as  the  trail  is  by  the 
lovers  of  "  haut  gout"  considered  a  "  bonne  bouche ;"  truss 
their  legs  close  to  the  body,  and  run  an  iron  skewer  through 
each  thigh,  close  to  the  body,  and  tie  them  on  a  small  bird 
spit ;  put  them  to  roast  at  a  clear  fire ;  cut  as  many  slices 
of  bread  as  you  have  birds,  toast  or  fry  them  a  delicate 
brown,  and  lay  them  in  the  dripping-pan  under  the  birds 
to  catch  the  trail;*  baste  them  with  butter,  and  froth 

*  "  This  bird  has  so  insinuated  itself  into  the  favour  of  refined  gourmands,  that 
they  pay  it  the  same  honours  as  the  grand  Lama,  making  a  ragofit  of  its  excrements, 
and  'devouring  them  with  ecstasy." — Vide  Almanack  des  Gourmands,  vol.  i.  p.  56, 

That  exercise  produces  strength  and  firmness  of  fibre  is  excellently  well  exempli- 
fied in  the  woodcock  and  the  partridge.  The  former  flies  anost — the  latter  walks  . 


ROASTING.  146 

them  with  flour ;  lay  the  toast  on  a  hot  dish,  and  the  birds 
on  the  toast;  pour  some  good  beef  gravy  into  the  dish, 
and  send  some  up  in  a  boat,  see  06s.  to  No.  329 :  twenty 
or  thirty  minutes  will  roast  them.  Garnish  with  slices 
of  lemon. 

Obs.— Some  epicures  like  this  bird  very  much  under-done, 
and  direct  that  a  woodcock  should  be  just  introduced  to 
the  cook,  for  her  to  show  it  the  fire,  and  then  send  it  up 
to  table. 

Snipes,— (No.  77.) 

Differ  little  from  woodcocks,  unless  in  size ;  they  are  to 
be  dressed  in  the  same  way,  but  require  about  five  minutes 
less  time  to  roast  them. 

For  sauce,  see  No.  338. 

Pigeons. — (No.  78.) 

When  the  pigeons  are  ready  for  roasting,  if  you  arc 
desired  to  stuff  them,  chop  some  green  parsley  very  fine,  the 
liver,  and  a  bit  of  butter  together,  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  or  with  the  stuffing  ordered  for  a  fillet  of  veal  (No.  374 
or  No.  375),  and  fill  the  belly  of  each  bird  with  it.  They 
will  be  done  enough  in  about  twenty  or  thirty  minutes ;  send 
up  parsley  and  butter  (No.  261,)  in  the  dish  under  them,  and 
some  in  a  boat,  and  garnish  with  crisp  parsley  (No.  318},  or 
fried  bread  crumbs  (No.  320),  or  bread  sauce  (No.  321),  or 
gravy  (No.  329). 

Obs. — When  pigeons  are  fresh  they  have  their  full  relish; 
but  it  goes  entirely  off  with  a  very  little  keeping ;  nor  is  it 
in  any  way  so  well  preserved  as  by  roasting  them :  when  they 
are  put  into  a  pie  they  are  generally  baked  to  rags,  and  taste 
more  of  pepper  and  salt  than  of  any  thing  else. 

A  little  melted  butter  may  be  put  into  the  dish  with  them, 
and  the  gravy  that  runs  from  them  will  mix  with  it  into  fine 
sauce.  Pigeons  are  in  the  greatest  perfection  from  mid- 
summer to  Michaelmas ;  there  is  then  the  most  plentiful  and 
best  food  for  them ;  and  their  finest  growth  is  just  when  they 
are  full  feathered.  When  they  are  in  the  pen-feathers,  they 
are  flabby;  when  they  are  full  grown,  and  have  flown  some 
time,  they  are  tough.  Game  and  poultry  are  best  when  they 

the  wing  of  the  woodcock  is  always  very  tough,— of  the  partridge  very  tender 
tience  the  old  doggerel  distich,— 

>r  "  If  the  partridge  had  but  the  woodcock's  thigh. 

He  'd  be  the  best  bird  that  e'er  doth  fly." 
Th«  breast  of  all  birds  is  the  most  juicy  and  nutritious  part. 
N 


146  FKYIXG. 

have  just  done  growing,  i.  e.  as  soon  as  nature  has  perfected 
her  work. 

This  was  the  secret  of  Solomon,  the  famous  pigeon-feeder 
of  Turnham  Green,  who  is  celebrated  by  the  poet  Gay, 
when  he  says, 

"  That  Turnham  Green,  which  dainty  pigeons  fed, 
But  feeds  no  more,  for  Solomon  is  dead." 

Larks  and  other  small  Birds.— (No.  80.) 

These  delicate  little  birds  are  in  high  season  in  November. 
When  they  are  picked,  gutted,  and  cleaned,  truss  them; 
brush  them  with  the  yelk  of  an  egg,  and  then  roll  them  in 
bread-crumbs :  spit  them  on  a  lark-spit,  and  tie  that  on  to  a 
larger  spit ;  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  at  a  quick  fire  will  do  them 
enough ;  baste  them  with  fresh  butter  while  they  are  roasting, 
and  sprinkle  them  with  bread-crumbs  till  they  are  well 
covered  with  them. 

For  the  sauce,  fry  some  grated  bread  in  clarified  butter, 
see  No.  259,  and  set  it  to  drain  before  the  fire,  that  it  may 
harden :  serve  the  crumbs  under  the  larks  when  you  dish 
them,  and  garnish  them  with  slices  of  lemon. 

Wheatearsi— (No.  81.) 
Are  dressed  in  the  same  way  as  larks. 

Lobster.— (No.  82.) 

See  receipt  for  boiling  (No.  176). 

We  give  no  receipt  for  roasting  lobster,  tongue,  &c.  being 
of  opinion  with  Dr.  King,  who  says, 

"  By  roasting  that  which  our  forefathers  boiled, 
And  boiling  what  they  roasted,  much  is  spoiled." 


FRYING. 

To  clarify  Drippings. — (No.  83.) 

PUT  your  dripping  into  a  clean  sauce-pan  over  a  stove  or 
slow  fire ;  when  it  is  just  going  to  boil,  skim  it  well,  let  it 
boil,  and  then  let  it  stand  till  it  is  a  little  cooled;  then  pour  it 
through  a  sieve  into  a  pan. 


FRYING.  147 

.  Obs. — Well-cleansed  drippings,*  and  the  fat  skimmingsf 
of  the  broth-pot,  when  fresh  and  sweet,  will  baste  every 
thing  as  well  as  butter,  except  game  and  poultry,  and  should 
supply  the  place  of  butter  for  common  fries,  &c. ;  for  which 
they  are  equal  to  lard,  especially  if  you  repeat  the  clarifying 
twice  over. 

N.B.  If  you  keep  it  in  a  cool  place,  you  may  preserve  it  a 
fortnight  in  summer,  and  longer  in  winter.  When  you  have 
done  frying,  let  the  dripping  stand  a  few  minutes  to  settle, 
and  then  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  clean  basin  or  stone 
pan,  and  it  will  do  a  second  and  a  third  time  as  well  as  it 
did  the  first ;  only  the  fat  you  have  fried  fish  in  must  not  be 
used  for  any  other  purpose. 

To  clarify  Suet  to  fry  with.— (No.  84.) 

Cut  beef  or  mutton  suet  into  thin  slices,  pick  out  all  the 
veins  and  skins,  &c.,  put  it  into  a  thick  and  well-tinned 
sauce-pan,  and  set  it  over  a  very  slow  stove,  or  in  an  oven, 
till  it  is  melted ;  you  must  not  hurry  it ;  if  not  done  very 
slowly  it  will  acquire  a  burnt  taste,  which  you  cannot  get 
rid  of;  then  strain  it  through  a  hair-sieve  into  a  clean  brown 

*  Mas.  MELROE,  in  her  Economical  Cookery,  page  7,  tells  us,  she  has  ascertained 
from  actual  experiments,  that "  the  drippings  of  roast  meat,  combined  with  wheat 
flour,  oatmeal,  barley,  pease,  or  potato-starch,  will  make  delicious  soup,  agreeable 
and  savoury  to  the  palate,  and  nutritive  and  serviceable  to  the  stomach ;  and  that 
while  a  joint  is  roasting,  good  soup  may  be  made  from  the  drippings  of  the  FAT, 
•which  is  the  essence  of  meat,  as  seeds  are  of  vegetables,  and  impregnates  sour  with 
the  identical  taste  of  meat." 

"  Writers  on  cookery  give  strict  directions  to  carefully  tkim  off  the  fat,  and  in  the 
next  sentence  order  butter  (a  much  more  expensive  article)  to  be  added :  instead  of 
this,  when  any  fat  appears  at  the  top  of  your  soup  or  stew,  do  not  skim  it  off,  but 
unite  it  with  the  broth  by  means  of  the  vegetable  mucilages,  flour,  oatmeal,  ground 
barley,  or  potato-starch ;  when  suspended  the  soup  is  equally  agreeable  to  the  palate 
nutritive  to  the  stomach,"  &c. 

"  Cooks  bestow  a  great  deal  of  pains  to  make  gravies ;  they  stew  and  boil  lean 
meat  for  hours,  and,  after  all,  their  cookery  tastes  more  of  pepper  and  salt  than  any 
thing  else.  If  they  would  add  the  bulk  of  a  chesnut  of  solid  fat  to  a  common-sized 
sauce-boatful  of  gravy,  it  will  give  it  more  sapidity  than  twenty  hours'  stewing  lean 
meat  would,  unless  a  larger  quantity  was  used  than  is  warranted  by  the  rules  of 
frugality."  See  Nos.  205  and  229. 

"  The  experiments  of  Dr.  Stark  on  the  nourishing  powers  of  different  substances, 

of  the  lean.  Dr.  Pages,  the  traveller,  confirms  this  opinion :  '  Being  obliged,'  says 
lie, '  during  the  journey  from  North  to  South  America  by  land,  to  live  solely  on 
animal  food,  I  experienced  the  truth  of  what  is  observed  by  hunters,  who  live  solely 
on  animal  food,  viz.  that  besides  their  receiving  little  nourishment  from  the  leaner 
parts  of  it,  it  soon  becomes  offensive  to  the  taste ;  whereas  the  fat  is  both  more  nutri- 
tive, and  continues  to  be  agreeable  to  the  palate.  To  many  stomachs  fat  is  unplea- 
sant and  indigestible,  especially  when  converted  into  oil  by  heat;  this  may  be  easily 
prevented,  by  the  simple  process  of  combining  the  fat  completely  with  water,  by  the 
intervention  of  vegetable  mucilage,  as  in  melting  butter,  by  means  of 'flour,  the 
butter  and  water  are  united  into  a  homogeneous  fluid.'  "—From  Practical  Economy, 
by  a  Physician.  Callow,  1801. 
'  t  See  note  at  the  foot  of  No.  201. 


148  FRYING. 

pan :  when  quite  cold,  tie  a  paper  over  it,  and  keep  it  for 
use.     Hog's  lard  is  prepared  in  the  same  way. 

Obs. — The  waste  occasioned  by  the  present  absurd  fashion 
of  over-feeding  cattle  till  the  fat  is  nearly  equal  to  the  lean, 
may,  by  good  management,  be  in  some  measure  prevented, 
by  cutting  off  the  superfluous  part,  and  preparing  it  as  above, 
or  by  making  it  into  puddings ;  see  Nos.  551  and  554,  or 
soup,  No.  229. 

Steaks.— (No.  85.) 

Cut  the  steaks  rather  thinner  than  for  broiling.  Put  some 
butter,  or  No.  83,  into  an  iron  frying-pan,  and  when  it  is 
hot,  lay  in  the  steaks,  and  keep  turning  them  till  they  are 
done  enough.  For  sauce,  see  No.  356,  and  for  the  accom- 
paniments, No.  94. 

O6«.  Unless  the  fire  be  prepared  on  purpose,  we  like  this 
way  of  cooking  them ;  the  gravy  is  preserved,  and  the  meat 
is  more  equally  dressed,  and  more  evenly  browned ;  which 
makes  it  more  relishing,  and  invites  the  eye  to  encourage 
the  appetite. 

Beef-steaks  and  Onions. — (No.  86.     See  also  No.  501.) 

Fry  the  steaks  according  to  the  directions  given  in  the 
preceding  receipt;  and  have  ready  for  them  some  onions 
prepared  as  directed  in  No.  299. 

For  stewed  rump-steaks,  see  Nos.  500  and  501. 

Sausages,— (No.  87.) 

Are  best  when  quite  fresh  made.  Put  a  bit  of  butter,  or 
dripping  (No.  83),  into  a  clean  frying-pan ;  as  soon  as  it  is 
melted  (before  it  gets  hot)  put  in  the  sausages,  and  shake 
the  pan  for  a  minute,  and  keep  turning  them  (be  careful  not 
to  break  or  prick  them  in  so  doing) ;  fry  them  over  a  very 
slow  fire  till  they  are  nicely  browned  on  all  sides ;  when  they 
are  done,  lay  them  on  a  hair-sieve,  placed  before  the  fire  for 
a  couple  of  minutes  to  drain  the  fat  from  them.  The  secret 
of  frying  sausages  is,  to  let  them  get  hot  very  gradually ; 
they  then  will  not  burst,  if  they  are  not  stale. 

The  common  practice  to  prevent  their  bursting,  is  to  prick 
them  with  a  fork ;  but  this  lets  the  gravy  out. 

You  may  froth  them  by  rubbing  them  with  cold  fresh  but- 
ter, and  lightly  dredge  them  with  flour,  and  put  them  in  a 
cheese-toaster  or  Dutch  oven  for  a  minute. 

Some  over-economical  cooks  insist  that  no  butter  or  lard. 


FRYING.  1 49 

&c.  is  required,  their  own  fat  being  sufficient  to  fry  them : 
we  have  tried  it ;  the  sausages  were  partially  scorched,  and 
had  that  piebald  appearance  that  all  fried  things  have  when 
sufficient  fat  is  not  allowed. 

Obs.  Poached  eggs  (No.  548),  pease-pudding  (No.  555  )> 
and  mashed  potatoes  (No.  106)  are  agreeable  accompani- 
ments to  sausages;  and  sausages  are  as  welcome  with 
boiled  or  roasted  poultry  or  veal,  or  boiled  tripe  (No.  18);  so 
are  ready-dressed  German  sausages  (see  Mem.  to  No.  13); 
and  a  convenient,  easily  digestible,  and  invigorating  food  for 
the  aged,  and  those  whose  teeth  are  defective ;  as  is  also 
No.  503.  For  sauce  No.  356 ;  to  make  mustard,  Nos.  369 
and  370. 

N.B.  Sausages,  when  finely  chopped,  are  a  delicate  "  bonne 
bouche ;"  and  require  very  little  assistance  from  the  teeth  to 
render  them  quite  ready  for  the  stomach. 

Sweetbreads  full-dressed.— (No.  88.) 

Parboil  them,  and  let  them  get  cold ;  then  cut  them  in 
pieces,  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick ;  dip  them  in 
the  yelk  of  an  egg,  then  in  fine  bread-crumbs  (some  add 
spice,  lemon-peel,  and  sweet  herbs) ;  put  some  clean  drip- 
ping (No.  83)  into  a  frying-pan :  when  it  boils,  put  in  the 
sweetbreads,  and  fry  them  a  fine  brown.  For  garnish,  crisp 
parsley ;  and  for  sauce,  mushroom  catchup  and  melted  but- 
ter, or  anchovy  sauce,  or  Nos.  356,  343,  or  343*,  or  bacon  or 
ham,  as  Nos.  526  and  527. 

Sweetbreads  plain. — (No.  89.) 

Parboil  and  slice  them  as  before,  dry  them  on  a  clean  cloth, 
flour  them,  and  fry  them  a  delicate  brown ;  take  care  to  drain 
the  fat  well  from  them,  and  garnish  them  with  slices  of 
lemon,  and  sprigs  of  chervil  or  parsley,  or  crisp  parsley 
(No.  318).  For  sauce,  No.  356,  or  No.  307,  and  slices  of 
ham  or  bacon,  as  No.  526,  or  No.  527,  or  forcemeat  balls 
made  as  Nos.  375  and  378. 

*#*  Take  care  to  have  a  fresh  sweetbread ;  it  spoils  sooner 
than  almost  any  thing,  therefore  should  be  parboiled  as  soon 
as  it  comes  in.  This  is  called  blanching,  or  setting  it ;  mut- 
ton kidneys  (No.  95)  are  sometimes  broiled  and  sent  up  with 
sweetbreads. 

Veal  Cutlets.— (No.  90  and  No.  521.) 
Let  your  cutlets  be  about  half  an  inch  thick ;  trim  them. 


J  50  FRYING. 

and  flatten  them  with  a  cleaver ;  you  may  fry  them  in  fresh 
butfer,  or  good  drippings  (No.  83) ;  when  brown  on  one  side, 
turn  them  and  do  the  other ;  if  the  fire  is  very  fierce,  they 
must  change  sides  oftener.  The  time  they  will  take  depends 
on  the  thickness  of  the  cutlet  and  the  heat  of  the  fire ;  half 
an  inch  thick  will  take  about  fifteen  minutes.  Make  some 
gravy,  by  putting  the  trimmings  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  little 
soft  water,  an  onion,  a  roll  of  lemon-peel,  a  blade  of  mace, 
a  sprig  of  thyme  and  parsley,  and  a  bay  leaf ;  stew  over  a 
slow  fire  an  hour,  then  strain  it ;  put  an  ounce  of  butter  into 
a  stew-pan ;  as  soon  as  it  is  melted,  mix  with  it  as  much 
flour  as  will  dry  it  up,  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  add  the  gravy  by  degrees  till  it  is  all  mixed,  boil  it  for 
five  minutes,  and  strain  it  through  a  tamis  sieve,  and  put  it  to 
the  cutlets ;  you  may  add  some  browning  (No.  322),  mush- 
room (No.  439),  or  walnut  catchup,  or  lemon  pickle,  &c. : 
see  also  sauces,  Nos.  343  and  348.  Or, 

Cut  the  veal  into  pieces  about  as  big  as  a  crown-piece, 
beat  them  with  a  cleaver,  dip  them  in  eggs  beat  up  with  a 
little  salt,  and  then  in  fine  bread-crumbs ;  fry  them  a  light 
brown  in  boiling  lard ;  serve  under  them  some  good  gravy 
or  mushroom  sauce  (No.  307),  which  may  be  made  in  five 
minutes.  Garnish  with  slices  of  ham  or  rashers  of  bacon 
(Nos.  526  and  527),  or  pork  sausages  (No.  87). 

06s.  Veal  forcemeat  or  stuffing  (Nos.  374,  375,  and  378), 
pork  sausages  (No.  87),  rashers  of  bacon  (Nos.  526  and 
527),  are  very  relishing  accompaniments,  fried  and  sent  up 
in  the  form  of  balls  or  cakes,  and  laid  round  as  a  garnish. 


Lamb,  or  Mutton  Chops,— (No.  92.} 

Are  dressed  in  the  same  way,  and  garnished  with  crisp 
parsley  (No.  318)  and  slices  of  lemon. 

If  they  are  bread-crumbed  and  covered  with  buttered 
writing-paper,  and  then  broiled,  they  are  called  "  maintenon 
cutlets." 

Pork  Chops.— (No.  93.) 

Cut  the  chops  about  half  an  inch  thick ;  trim  them  neatly 
(few  cooks  have  any  idea  how  much  credit  they  get  by  this)*; 
put  a  frying-pan  on  the  fire,  with  a  bit  of  butter ;  as  soon  as 
it  is  hot,  put  in  your  chops,  turning  them  often  till  brown  all 
over,  they  will  be  done  enough  in  about  fifteen  minutes; 


BROILING.  151 

lake  one  upon  a  plate  and  try  it ;  if  done,  season  it  with 
a  little  finely-minced  onion,  powdered  sage,  and  pepper  and 
salt.  For  gravy  and  sauce,  see  Nos.  300, 304,  341,  and  356. 

Obs.  A  little  powdered  sage,  &c.  strewed  over  them,  will 
give  them  a  nice  relish,  or  the  savoury  powder  in  No.  51,  or 
forcemeat  sausages  like  No.  378. 

Do  not  have  them  cut  too  thick,  about  three  chops  to  an 
inch  and  a  quarter ;  trim  them  neatly,  beat  them  flat,  have 
ready  some  sweet  herbs,  or  sage  and  onion  chopped  fine,  put 
them  in  a  stew-pan  with  a  bit  of  butter  about  as  big  as  a 
walnut,  let  them  have  one  fry,  beat  two  eggs  on  a  plate  with 
a  little  salt,  add  to  them  the  herbs,  mix  it  all  well  together, 
dip  the  chops  in  one  at  a  time  all  over,  and  then  with  bread- 
crumbs fry  them  in  hot  lard  or  drippings  till  they  are  a  light 
brown. 

Obs.  Veal,  lamb,  or  mutton  chops,  are  very  good  dressed 
in  like  manner. 

To  fry  fish,  see  No.  145. 

N.B.  To  fry  eggs  and  omelets,  and  other  things,  see  No. 
545,  and  the  Index. 


BROILING. 

'Chops  or  Steaks.*— (No.  94.) 

To  stew  them,  see  No.  500,  ditto  with  onions,  No.  501. 

Those  who  are  nice  about  steaks,  never  attempt  to  have 
them,  except  in  weather  which  permits  the  meat  to  be  hung 
till  it  is  tender,  and  give  the  butcher  some  days'  notice  of 
their  wish  for  them. 

If,  friendly  reader,  you  wish  to  entertain  your  mouth  with 
a  superlative  beef-steak,  you  must  have  the  inside  of  the 
sirloin  cut  into  steaks.  The  next  best  steaks  are  those  cut 

*  The  season  for  these  is  from  the  29th  of  September  to  the  25th  of  March ;  to 
ensure  their  being  tender  when  out  of  season,  STKW  THEM  as  in  receipt  No.  500. 

TO   WARM  UP  COLD  R0MP-STSAKS. 

Lay  them  in  a  stew-pan,  with  one  large  onion  cut  in  quarters,  six  berries  of  all- 
spice, the  same  of  black  pepper,  cover  the  steaks  with  boiling  water,  let  them  stew 
gently  one  hour,  thicken  the  liquor  with  flour  and  butter  nibbed  together  on  a  plate ; 
if  a  pint  of  gravy,  about  one  ounce  of  flour,  and  the  like  weight  of  butter,  will  do  -, 
put  it  into  the  stew-pan,  shake  it  well  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  ; 
lay  the  steaks  and  onions  on  a  dish  and  pour  the  gravy  through  a  sieve  over  them. 


162  BROILING. 

from  the  middle  of  a  rump,  that  has  been  killed  at  least  four 
days  in  moderate  weather,  and  much  longer  in  cold  weather, 
when  they  can  be  cut  about  six  inches  long,  four  inches 
wide,  and  half  an  inch  thick :  do  not  beat  them,  which  vulgar 
trick  breaks  the  cells  in  which  the  gravy  of  the  meat  is 
contained,  ar?d  it  becomes  dry  and  tasteless. 

N.B.  If  your  butcher  sends  steaks  which  are  not  tender, 
we  do  not  insist  that  you  should  object  to  let  him  be  beaten. 

Desire  the  butcher  to  cut  them  of  even  thickness ;  if  he 
does  not,  divide  the  thicker  from  the  thinner  pieces,  and  give 
them  time  accordingly. 

Take  care  to  have  a  very  clear,  brisk  fire ;  throw  a  little  salt 
on  it ;  make  the  gridiron  hot,  and  set  it  slanting,  to  prevent 
the  fat  from  dropping  into  the  fire,  and  making  a  smoke.  It 
requires  more  practice  and  care  than  is  generally  supposed 
to  do  steaks  to  a  nicety ;  and  for  want  of  these  little  atten- 
tions, this  very  common  dish,  which  every  body  is  supposed 
capable  of  dressing,  seldom  comes  to  table  in  perfection. 

Ask  those  you  cook  for,  if  they  like  it  under,  or  thoroughly 
done ;  and  what  accompaniments  they  like  best ;  it  is  usual 
to  put  a  table-spoonful  of  catchup  (No.  439),  or  a  little 
minced  eschalot,  or  No.  402,  into  a  dish  before  the  fire ; 
while  you  are  broiling,  turn  the  steak,  &c.  with  a  pair  of 
steak-tongs,  it  will  be  done  in  about  ten  or  fifteen  minutes ; 
rub  a  bit  of  butter  over  it,  and  send  it  up  garnished  with 
pickles  and  finely-scraped  horse-radish.  Nos.  135,  278, 299, 
•S55,  402, 423,  439,  and  356,  are  the  sauces  usually  composed 
for  chops  and  steaks. 

N.B.  Macbeth's  receipt  for  beef-steaks  is  the  best — 

"  when '£  is  done, '« were  well 

If '«  were  done  quickly." 

Obs.  "  Le  veritable  BIFTECK,  comme  il  se  fait  en  Angleterre? 
as  Mons.  Beauvilliers  calls  (in  his  VArt  du  Cwm'mer,  torn.  i. 
8vo.  Paris,  1814,  p.  122)  what  he  says  we  call  "romesteck" 
is  as  highly  esteemed  by  our  French  neighbours,  as  their 
**  rago&ts"  are  by  our  countrymen,  who 


-"  post  to  Paris  go, 


Merely  to  taste  their  soups,  and  mushrooms  know." 

KINO'S  Art  of  Cookery,  p.  79. 

These  lines  were  written  before  the  establishment  of  Al- 
bion house,  Aldersgate  Street,  where  every  luxury  that  nature 
and  art  produce  is  served  of  the  primest  quality,  and  in  the 
most  scientific  manner,  in  a  style  of  princely  magnificence 
and  perfect  comfort ;  the  wines,  liqueurs,  &c.  are  superlative. 


BROILING.  153 

and  eveiy  department  of  the  business  of  the  banquet  is  con- 
ducted in  the  most  liberal  manner. 

The  French  author  whom  we  have  before  so  often  quoted, 
assures  les  amateurs  de  bonne  chere  on  the  other  side  of  the 
water,  it  is  well  worth  their  while  to  cross  the  channel  to 
taste  this  favourite  English  dish,  which,  when  "  mortifite  a 
son  point"  and  well  dressed,  he  says,  is  superior  to  most  of 
the  subtle  double  relishes  of  the  Parisian  kitchen.  Alma- 
nack des  Gourmands,  vol.  i.  p.  27. 

Beef  is  justly  accounted  the  most  nutritious  animal  food, 
and  is  entitled  to  the  same  rank  among  solid,  that  brandy  is 
among  liquid  stimuli. 

The  celebrated  TRAINER,  Sir  Thomas  Parkyns,  of  Bunny 
Park,  Bart.,  in  his  book  on  Wrestling,  4to.  3d  edit.  1727,  p. 
10,  &c.,  greatly  prefers  beef-eaters  to  sheep-biters,  as  he 
called  those  who  ate  mutton. 

When  Humphries  the  pugilist  was  trained  by  Ripsham, 
the  keeper  of  Ipswich  jail,  he  was  at  first  fed  on  beef,  but 
got  so  much  flesh,  it  was  changed  for  mutton,  roasted  or 
broiled :  when  broiled,  great  part  of  the  nutritive  juices  of 
the  meat  is  extracted. 

The  principles  upon  which  training*  is  conducted,  resolve 
themselves  into  temperance  without  abstemiousness,  and 
exercise  without  fatigue. 

Kidneys.— (No.  95.) 

Cut  them  through  the  long  way,  score  them,  sprinkle  a 
little  pepper  and  salt  on  them,  and  run  a  wire  skewer  through 
them  to  keep  them  from  curling  on  the  gridiron,  so  that  they 
may  be  evenly  broiled. 

Broil  them  over  a  very  clear  fire,  turning  them  often  till 
they  are  done ;  they  will  take  about  ten  or  twelve  minutes, 
if  the  fire  is  brisk :  or  fry  them  in  butter,  and  make  gravy 
for  them  in  the  pan  (after  you  have  taken  out  the  kidneys), 
by  putting  in  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour ;  as  soon  as  it  looks 
brown,  put  in  as  much  water  as  will  make  gravy ;  they  will 
take  five  minutes  more  to  fry  than  to  broil.  For  sauce,  Nos. 
318,  355,  and  356. 

Obs.  Some  cooks  chop  a  few  parsley-leaves  very  fine,  and 
mix  them  with  a  bit  of  fresh  butter  and  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  and  put  a  little  of  this  mixture  on  each  kidney. 

*  See  "THE  ART  OP  INVIGORATING  AND  PROLONGING  LIFB,"  by  the  editor  of 
"  THE  COOK'S  ORACLE."  Published  by  G.  B.  Whlttaker,  No.  13,  Ave-Maria  Lane. 


• 51  BROILING. 

A  Fowl  or  Rabbit,  £c.— (No.  97.) 

We  can  only  recommend  this  method  of  dressing  when 
the  fire  is  not  good  enough  for  roasting. 

Pick  and  truss  it  the  same  as  for  boiling,  cut  it  open  down 
the  back,  wipe  the  inside  clean  with  a  cloth,  season  it  with 
a  little  pepper  and  salt,  have  a  clear  fire,  and  set  the  gridiron 
at  a  good  distance  over  it,  lay  the  chicken  on  with  the  inside 
towards  the  fire  (you  may  egg  it  and  strew  some  grated 
bread  over  it),  and  broil  it  till  it  is  a  fine  brown :  take  care 
the  fleshy  side  is  not  burned.  Lay  it  on  a  hot  dish ;  pickled 
mushrooms,  or  mushroom  sauce  (No.  305),  thrown  over  it, 
or  parsley  and  butter  (No.  261),  or  melted  butter  flavoured 
with  mushroom  catchup  (No.  307). 

Garnish  it  with  slices  of  lemon;  and  the  liver  and  giz- 
zard slit  and  notched,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
broiled  nicely  brown,  with  some  slices  of  lemon.  For  grill 
sauce,  see  No.  355. 

N.B.  "  It  was  a  great  mode,  and  taken  up  by  the  court 
party  in  Oliver  Cromwell's  time,  to  roast  half  capons,  pre- 
tending they  had  a  more  exquisite  taste  and  nutriment  than 
when  dressed  whole."  See  JOAN  CROMWELL'S  Kitchen,  Lon- 
don, 1664,  page  39. 

Pigeons,— (No.  98.) 

To  be  worth  the  trouble  of  picking,  must  be  well  grown, 
and  well  fed. 

Clean  them  well,  and  pepper  and  salt  them ;  broil  them 
over  a  clear,  slow  fire ;  turn  them  often,  and  put  a  little  but- 
ter on  them :  when  they  are  done,  pour  over  them,  either 
stewed  (No.  305)  or  pickled  mushrooms,  or  catchup  and 
melted  butter  (No.  307,  or  No.  348  or  355). 

Garnish  with  fried  bread-crumbs  or  sippets  (No.  319) :  or, 
when  the  pigeons  are  trussed  as  for  boiling,  flat  them  with  a 
cleaver,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  skin  of  the  backs  or 
breasts.  Season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  a  little  bit  of 
butter,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  water,  and  tie  them  close  at 
both  ends  ;  so  that  when  they  are  brought  to  table,  they  bring- 
their  sauce  with  them.  Egg  and  dredge  them  well  with 
grated  bread  (mixed  with  spice  and  sweet  herbs,  if  you 
please) ;  then  lay  them  on  the  gridiron,  and  turn  them  fre- 
quently :  if  your  fire  is  not  very  clear,  lay  them  on  a  sheet 
of  paper  well  buttered,  to  keep  them  from  getting  smoked. 
They  are  much  better  broiled  whole. 

The  same  sauce  as  in  the  preceding  receipt,  or  No.  343 
or  348. 

VEAL  CUTLETS  (No.  521  and  No.  91 ).     PORK  CHOPS  (No.  93). 


VEGETABLES.  155 


VEGETABLES. 

Sixteen  Ways  of  dressing  Potatoes.*— (No.  102.) 

THE  vegetable  kingdom  affords  no  food  more  wholesome, 
more  easily  procured,  easily  prepared,  or  less  expensive,  than 
the  potato :  yet,  although  this  most  useful  vegetable  is  dressed 
almpst  every  day,  in  almost  every  family,  for  one  plate  of 
potatoes  that  comes  to  table  as  it  should,  ten  are  spoiled. 

Be  careful  in  your  choice  of  potatoes :  no  vegetable  varies 
so  much  in  colour,  size,  shape,  consistence,  and  flavour. 

The  reddish-coloured  are  better  than  the  white,  but  the 
yellowish-looking  ones  are  the  best.  Choose  those  of  a 
moderate  size,  free  from  blemishes,  and  fresh,  and  buy  them 
in  the  mould.  They  must  not  be  wetted  till  they  are  cleaned 
to  be  cooked.  Protect  them  from  the  air  and  frost,  by  lay- 
ing them  in  heaps  in  a  cellar,  covering  them  with  mats,  or 
burying  them  in  sand  or  in  earth.  The  action  of  frost  is 
most  destructive :  if  it  be  considerable,  the  life  of  the  vege- 
table is  destroyed,  and  the  potato  speedily  rots. 

Wash  them,  but  do  not  pare  or  cut  them,  unless  they  arc 
very  large.  Fill  a  sauce-pan  half  full  of  potatoes  of  equal 
sizef  (or  make  them  so  by  dividing  the  larger  ones),  put  to 
them  as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover  them  about  an  inch : 
they  are  sooner  boiled,  and  more  savoury,  than  when  drowned 
in  water.  Most  boiled  things  are  spoiled  by  having  too 
little  water,  but  potatoes  are  often  spoiled  by  too  much :  they 
must  merely  be  covered,  and  a  little  allowed  for  waste  in 
boiling,  so  that  they  may  be  just  covered  at  the  finish. 

Set  them  on  a  moderate  fire  till  they  boil ;  then  take  them 
off,  and  put  them  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to  simmer  slowly  till 
they  are  soft  enough  to  admit  a  fork  (place  no  dependence 
on  the  usual  test  of  their  skins'  cracking,  which,  if  they  are 
boiled  fast,  will  happen  to  some  potatoes  when  they  are  not 
half  done,  and  the  insides  quite  hard).  Then  pour  the  water 

*  "  Next  to  bread,  there  is  no  vegetable  article,  the  preparation  of  which,  as  food, 
deserves  to  be  more  attended  to,  than  the  potato."— -Sir  JOHN  SINCLAIR'S  Code  of 
Health,  vol.  i.  p.  354. 

"  By  the  analysis  of  pQfato,  it  appears  that  16  ounces  contained  11 J  ounces  of 
water,  and  the  4J  ounces  of  solid  parts  remaining,  afforded  scarce  a  drachm  of 
earth."^PARMENTiER's  Ohs.  on  Nutritive  Vegetables,  8vo.  1783,  p.  112. 

t  Or  the  small  ones  will  be  done  to  pieces  before  the  large  ones  are  boiled 
enough. 


166  VEGETABLES. 

off  (if  you  let  the  potatoes  remain  in  the  water  a  moment 
after  they  are  done  enough,  they  will  become  waxy  and  wa- 
tery), uncover  the  sauce-pan,  and  set  it  at  such  a  distance 
from  the  fire  as  will  secure  it  from  burning;  their  super- 
fluous moisture  will  evaporate,  and  the  potatoes  will  be  per- 
fectly dry  and  mealy. 

You  may  afterward  place  a  napkin,  folded  up  to  the  size 
of  the  sauce-pan's  diameter,  over  the  potatoes,  to  keep  them 
iiot  and  mealy  till  wanted. 

Obs. — This  method  of  managing  potatoes  is  in  every  re- 
spect equal  to  steaming  them ;  and  they  are  dressed  in  half 
the  time. 

There  is  such  an  infinite  variety  of  sorts  and  sizes  of  pota- 
toes, that  it  is  impossible  to  say  how  long  they  will  take 
doing :  the  best  way  is  to  try  them  with  a  fork.  Moderate- 
sized  potatoes  will  generally  be  done  enough  in  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes.  See  Obs.  to  No.  106. 

Cold  Potatoes  fried.— (No.  102*.) 

Put  a  bit  of  clean  dripping  into  a  frying-pan :  when  it  is 
melted,  slice  in  your  potatoes  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt ; 
put  them  on  the  fire ;  keep  stirring  them  :  when  they  are  quite- 
hot,  they  are  ready. 

Obs. — This  is  a  veiy  good  way  of  re-dressing  potatoes,  or 
see  No.  106. 

Potatoes  boiled  and  broiled.— (No.  103.) 

Dress  your  potatoes  as  before  directed,  and  put  them  ou 
a  gridiron  over  a  very  clear  and  brisk  fire :  turn  them  till  they 
are  brown  all  over,  and  send  them  up  dry,  with  melted  butter 
in  a  cup. 

Potatoes  fried  in  Slices  or  Shavings.— (No.  104.) 

Peel  large  potatoes ;  slice  them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  or  cut  them  in  shavings  round  and  round,  as  you  would 
peel  a  lemon ;  dry  them  well  in  a  clean  cloth,  and  fry  them 
in  lard  or  dripping.  Take  care  that  your  fat  and  frying-pan 
are  quite  clean ;  put  it  on  a  quick  fire,  watch  it,  and  as  soon 
as  the  lard  boils,  and  is  still,  put  in  the  slices  of  potato,  and 
keep  moving  them  till  they  are  crisp.  Take  them  up,  and 
lay  them  to  drain  on  a  sieve :  send  them  up  with  a  very  little 
salt  sprinkled  over  them. 


VEGETABLES.  157 

Potatoes  fried  whole.— (No.  105.) 

When  nearly  boiled  enough,  as  directed  in  No.  102,  put 
them  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  bit  of  butter,  or  some  nice  clean 
beef-drippings ;  shake  them  about  often  (for  fear  of  burning 
them),  till  they  are  brown  and  crisp ;  drain  them  from  the  fat. 

Obs. — It  will  be  an  elegant  improvement  to  the  last  three 
receipts,  previous  to  frying  or  broiling  the  potatoes,  to  flour 
them  and  dip  them  in  the  yelk  of  an  egg,  and  then  roll  them 
in  fine-sifted  bread-crumbs;  they  will  then  deserve  to  be 
called  POTATOES  FULL  DRESSED. 

Potatoes  mashed.— (No.  106.     See  also  No.  112.) 

When  your  potatoes  are  thoroughly  boiled,  drain  them 
quite  dry,  pick  out  every  speck,  &c.,  and  while  hot,  rub  them 
through  a  colander  into  a  clean  stew-pan.  To  a  pound  of 
potatoes  put  about  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  milk :  do  not  make  them  too  moist ;  mix  them  well 
together. 

Obs. — After  Lady-day,  when  the  potatoes  are  getting  old 
and  specky,  and  in  frosty  weather,  this  is  the  best  way  of 
dressing  them.  You  may  put  them  into  shapes  or  small 
tea-cups ;  egg  them  with  yelk  of  egg,  and  brown  them  very 
slightly  before  a  slow  fire.  See  No.  108. 

Potatoes  mashed  -with  Onions. — (No.  107.) 

Prepare  some  boiled  onions  by  putting  them  through  a 
sieve,  and  mix  them  with  potatoes.  In  proportioning  the 
onions  to  the  potatoes,  you  will  be  guided  by  your  wish  to 
have  more  or  less  of  their  flavour. 

Obs. — See  note  under  No.  555. 

Potatoes  escaloped. — (No.  108.) 

Mash  potatoes  as  directed  in  No.  106 ;  then  butter  some 
nice  clean  scollop-shells,  patty-pans,  or  tea-cups  or  saucers ; 
put  in  your  potatoes ;  make  them  smooth  at  the  top ;  cross 
a  knife  over  them ;  strew  a  few  fine  bread-crumbs  on  them ; 
sprinkle  them  with  a  paste-brush  with  a  few  drops  of  melted 
butter,  and  then  set  them  in  a  Dutch  oven ;  when  they  are 
browned  on  the  top,  take  them  carefully  out  of  the  shells 
and  brown* the  other  side. 

Colcannon*— (No.  108*.) 

Boil  potatoes  and  greens,  or  spinage,  separately ;  mash  the 
O 


158  VEGETABLES. 

potatoes;  squeeze  the  greens  dry;  chop  them  quite  fine, 
and  mix  them  with  the  potatoes,  with  a  little  butter,  pepper, 
and  salt ;  put  it  into  a  mould,  buttering  it  well  first ;  let  it 
stand  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes. 

Potatoes  roasted.— (No.  109.) 

Wash  and  dry  your  potatoes  (all  of  a  size),  and  put  them 
in  a  tin  Dutch  oven,  or  cheese-toaster :  take  care  not  to  put 
them  too  near  the  fire,  or  they  will  get  burned  on  the  outside 
before  they  are  warmed  through. 

Large  potatoes  will  require  two  hours  to  roast  them. 

N.B.  To  save  time  and  trouble,  some  cooks  half  boil 
them  first. 

This  is  one  of  the  best  opportunities  the  BAKER  has  to 
rival  the  cook. 

Potatoes  roasted  under  Meat. — (No.  110.) 

Half  boil  large  potatoes,  drain  the  water  from  them, 
and  put  them  into  an  earthen  dish,  or  small  tin  pan,  under 
meat  that  is  roasting,  and  baste  them  with  some  of  the 
dripping :  when  they  are  browned  on  one  side,  turn  them 
and  brown  the  other ;  send  them  up  round  the  meat,  or 
in  a  small  dish. 

Potato  Balls.— (No.  111.) 

Mix  mashed  potatoes  with  the  yelk  of  an  egg;  roll 
them  into  balls  ;  flour  them,  or  egg  and  bread-crumb  them ; 
and  fry  them  in  clean  drippings,  or  brown  them  in  a 
Dutch  oven. 

Potato  Balls  Ragout,— (No.  112.) 

Are  made  by  adding  to  a  pound  of  potatoes  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  grated  ham,  or  some  sweet  herbs,  or  chopped 
parsley,  an  onion  or  eschalot,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg,  01  other  spice,  with  the  yelk  of  a  couple  of  eggs : 
they  are  then  to  be  dressed  as  No.  111. 

Ubs. — An  agreeable  vegetable  relish,  and  a  good  sup- 
per-dish. 

Potato  Snow.— -(No.  114.) 

The  potatoes  must  be  free  /rom  spots,  and  the  whitest 
you  can  pick  out ;  put  them  on  in  cold  water ;  when  they 
begin  to  crack  strain  the  water  from  them,  and  put  them 


VEGETABLES.  159 

into  a  clean  stew-pan  by  the  side  of  the  fire  till  they  are 
quite  dry,  and  fall  to  pieces ;  rub  them  through  a  wire  sieve 
on  the  dish  they  are  to  be  sent  up  in,  and  do  not  disturb 
them  afterward. 

Potato  Pie.— (No.  115.) 

Peel  and  slice  your  potatoes  very  thin  into  a  pie-dish; 
between  each  layer  of  potatoes  put  a  little  chopped  onion 
(three-quarters  of  an  ounce  of  onion  is  sufficient  for  a  pound 
of  potatoes) ;  between  each  layer  sprinkle  a  little  pepper 
and  salt ;  put  in  a  little  water,  and  cut  about  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter  into  little  bits,  and  lay  them  on  the  top :  cover 
it  close  with  puff  paste.  It  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  bake  it. 

N.B.  The  yelks  of  four  eggs  (boiled  hard)  maybe  added; 
and  when  baked,  a  table-spoonful  of  good  mushroom  catchup 
poured  in  through  a  funnel. 

Obs. — Cauliflowers  divided  into  mouthfuls,  and  button 
onions,  seasoned  with  curry  powder,  &c.  make  a  favourite 
vegetable  pie. 

JVeTBj  Potatoes.— (No.  116.) 

The  best  way  to  clean  new  potatoes  is  to  rub  them  with  a 
coarse  cloth  or  flannel,  a  or  scrubbing-brush,  and  proceed  as 
in  No.  102. 

N.B.  New  potatoes  are  poor,  watery,  and  insipid,  till  they 
are  full  two  inches  in  diameter:  they  are  not  worth  the 
trouble  of  boiling  before  midsummer  day. 

Obs. — Some  cooks  prepare  sauces  to  pour  over  potatoes, 
made  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  or  gravy,  or  melted  butter 
•and  catchup ;  or  stew  the  potatoes  in  ale,  or  water  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  salt ;  or  bake  them  with  herrings  or  sprats, 
mixed  with  layers  of  potatoes,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt, 
sweet  herbs,  vinegar,  and  water;  or  cut  mutton  or  beef 
into  slices,  and  lay  them  in  a  stew-pan,  and  on  them  pota- 
toes and  spices,  then  another  layer  of  the  meat  alternately, 
pouring  in  a  little  water,  covering  it  up  very  close,  and 
slewing  slowly. 

Potato  mucilage  (a  good  substitute  for  arrow-root), 
No.  448.* 

*  Sweet  potatoes,  otherwise  called  Carolina  potatoes,  are  the  roots  of  the  Convol- 
vulus batatas,  a  plant  peculiar  to  and  principally  cultivated  in  America.  It  delights 
in  a  warm  climate,  but  is  raised  in  Connecticut,  New- York,  and  all  the  states  of  the 
Union  south  of  New- York.  It  is  an  excellent  vegetable  for  the  dinner-table,  and  is 
brought  on  boiled.  It  has  an  advantage  over  common  potatoes,  as  it  may  be  eaten 


160  VEGETABLES. 

Jerusalem  Artichokes, — (No.  117.) 

Are  boiled  and  dressed  in  the  various  ways  we  have  just 
before  directed  for  potatoes. 

N.B.  They  should  be  covered  with  thick  melted  butter,  or 
a  nice  white  or  brown  sauce. 

Cabbage.— (No.  118.) 

Pick  cabbages  very  clean,  and  wash  them  thoroughly; 
then  look  them  over  carefully  again ;  quarter  them  if  they 
are  very  large.  Put  them  into  a  sauce-pan  with  plenty  of 
boiling  water;  if  any  scum  rises,  take  it  off;  put  a  large 
spoonful  of  salt  into  the  sauce-pan,  and  boil  them  till  the 
stalks  feel  tender.  A  young  cabbage  will  take  about  twenty 
minutes  or  half  an  hour ;  when  full  grown,  near  an  hour : 
see  that  they  are  well  covered  with  water  all  the  time,  and 
that  no  smoke  or  dirt  arises  from  stirring  the  fire.  With 
careful  management,  they  will  look  as  beautiful  when  dressed 
as  they  did  when  growing. 

Obs. — Some  cooks  say,  that  it  will  much  ameliorate  the 
flavour  of  strong  old  cabbages  to  boil  them  in  two  waters ; 
i.  e.  when  they  are  half  done,  to  take  them  out,  and 
put  them  directly  into  another  sauce-pan  of  boiling  water, 
instead  of  continuing  them  in  the  water  into  which  they 
were  first  put. 

Boiled  Cabbage  fried.— (No.  119.) 
See  receipt  for  Bubble  and  Squeak. 

Savoys,— (No.  120.) 

Are  boiled  in  the  same  manner ;  quarter  them  when  you 
•send  them  to  table. 

Sprouts  and  young  Greens. — (No.  121.) 

The  receipt  we  have  written  for  cabbages  will  answer 
as  well  for  sprouts,  only  they  will  be  boiled  enough  in  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes. 

Spinage.— (No.  122.) 

Spinage  should  be  picked  a  leaf  at  a  time,  and  washed  in 
three  or  four  waters ;  when  perfectly  clean,  lay  it  on  a  sieve 
or  colander,  to  drain  the  water  from  it. 

cold ;  and  it  is  sometimes  cut  into  thin  slices  and  brought  to  the  tea-table,  as  a  deli- 
cate relish,  owing  to  ita  agreeable  nutritious  sweetness.    A. 


VEGETABLES.  161 

Put  a  sauce-pan  on  the  fire  three  parts  filled  with  water, 
and  large  enough  for  the  spinage  to  float  in  it ;  put  a  small 
handful  of  salt  in  it ;  let  it  boil ;  skim  it,  and  then  put  in  the 
spinage ;  make  it  boil  as  quick  as  possible  till  quite  tender, 
pressing  the  spinage  down  frequently  that  it  may  be  done 
equally;  it  will  be  done  enough  in  about  ten  minutes,  if  boiled 
in  plenty  of  water :  if  the  spinage  is  a  little  old,  give  it  a  few 
minutes  longer.  When  done,  strain  it  on  the  back  of  a  sieve ; 
squeeze  it  dry  with  a  plate,  or  between  two  trenchers  ;  chop 
it  fine,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  bit  of  butter  and  a 
little  salt :  a  little  cream  is  a  great  improvement,  or  instead 
of  either  some  rich  gravy.  Spread  it  in  a  dish,  and  score  it 
into  squares  of  proper  size  to  help  at  table. 

Obs. — Grated  nutmeg,  or  mace,  and  a  little  lemon-juice, 
is  a  favourite  addition  with  some  cooks,  and  is  added 
when  you  stir  it  up  in  the  stew-pan  with  the  butter  gar- 
nished. Spinage  is  frequently  served  with  poached  eggs 
and  fried  bread. 

Asparagus.— (No.  123.) 

Set  a  stew-pan  with  plenty  of  water  in  it  on  the  fire; 
sprinkle  a  handful  of  salt  in  it ;  let  it  boil,  and  skim  it ;  then 
put  in  your  asparagus,  prepared  thus :  scrape  all  the  stalks 
till  they  are  perfectly  clean ;  throw  them  into  a  pan  of  cold 
water  as  you  scrape  them ;  when  they  are  all  done,  tie  them 
up  in  little  bundles,  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  hundred  each, 
with  bass,  if  you  can  get  it,  or  tape  (string  cuts  them  to 
pieces) ;  cut  off  the  stalks  at  the  bottom  that  they  may  be  all 
of  a  length,  leaving  only  just  enough  to  serve  as  a  handle 
for  the  green  part ;  when  they  are  tender  at  the  stalk,  which 
will  be  in  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  they  are  done 
enough.  Great  care  must  be  taken  to  watch  the  exact  time 
of  their  becoming  tende. ;  take  them  up  just  at  that  instant, 
and  they  will  have  their  true  flavour  and  colour :  a  minute 
or  two  more  boiling  destroys  both. 

While  the  asparagus  is  boiling,  toast  a  round  of  a  quartern 
loaf,  about  half  an  inch  thick  ;  brown  it  delicately  on  both 
sides;  dip  it  lightly  in  the  liquor  the  asparagus  was  boiled 
in,  and  lay  it  in  the  middle  of  a  dish :  melt  some  butter  (No. 
25(>) ;  then  lay  in  the  asparagus  upon  the  toast,  which  must 
project  beyond  the  asparagus,,that  the  company  may  see 
there  is  a  toast. 

Pour  no  butter  over  them,  but  send  some  up  in  a  boat,  or 
white  sauce  (No,  2  of  No.  364). 
02 


162  VEGETABLES. 

Sea  Kale,— (No.  124.) 

Is  tied  up  in  bundles,  and  dressed  in  the  same  way  as 
asparagus. 

Cauliflower.— (No.  125.) 

Choose  those  that  are  close  and  white,  and  of  the  middle 
size ;  trim  off  the  outside  leaves ;  cut  the  stalk  off  flat  at 
the  bottom ;  let  them  lie  in  salt  and  water  an  hour  before 
you  boil  them. 

Put  them  into  boiling  water  with  a  handful  of  salt  in  it ; 
skim  it  well,  and  let  it  boil  slowly  till  done,  which  a  small 
one  will  be  in  fifteen,  a  large  one  in  about  twenty  minutes  ; 
take  it  up  the  moment  it  is  enough,  a  minute  or  two  longer 
boiling  will  spoil  it. 

N.B.  Cold  cauliflowers  and  French  beans,  carrots  and 
turnips,  boiled  so  as  to  eat  rather  crisp,  are  sometimes 
dressed  as  a  salad  (No.  372  or  453). 

Broccoli.— (No.  126.) 

Set  a  pan  of  clean  cold  water  on  the  table,  and  a  sauce- 
pan on  the  fire  with  plenty  of  water,  and  a  handful  of  salt 
in  it. 

Broccoli  is  prepared  by  stripping  off  all  the  side  shoots, 
leaving  the  top ;  peel  off  the  skin  of  the  stalk  with  a  knife ; 
cut  it  close  off  at  the  bottom,  and  put  it  into  the  pan  of 
cold  water. 

When  the  water  in  the  stew-pan  boils,  and  the  broccoli  is 
ready,  put  it  in ;  let  it  boil  briskly  till  the  stalks  feel  tender, 
from  ten  to  twenty  minutes ;  take  it  up  with  a  slice,  that 
you  may  not  break  it ;  let  it  drain,  and  serve  up. 

If  some  of  the  heads  of  broccoli  are  much  bigger  than 
the  others,  put  them  on  to  boil  first,  so  that  they  may  get  all 
done  together. 

Obs. — It  makes  a  nice  supper-dish  served  upon  a  toast, 
like  asparagus.  It  is  a  very  delicate  vegetable,  and  you 
must  take  it  up  the  moment  it  is  done,  and  send  it  to 
table  hot. 

Red  Beet-roots,— (No.  127.) 

Are  not  so  much  used  as  they  deserve ;  they  are  dressed  in 
the  same  way  as  parsnips,  only  neither  scraped  nor  cut  till 
after  they  are  boiled ;  they  will  take  from  an  hour  and  a  half 
to  three  hours  in  boiling,  according  to  their  size :  to  be  sent 
to  table  with  salt  fish,  boiled  beef,  &c.  When  young,  large, 


VEGETABLES.  163 

and  juicy,  it  is  a  very  good  variety,  an  excellent  garnish,  and 
easily  converted  into  a  very  cheap  and  pleasant  pickle. 

Parsnips,— (No.  128.) 

Are  to  be  cooked  just  in  the  same  manner  as  carrots.  They 
require  more  or  less  time  according  to  their  size ;  therefore 
match  them  in  size  :  and  you  must  try  them  by  thrusting  a 
fork  into  them  as  they  are  in  the  water;  when  that  goes 
easily  through,  they  are  done  enough.  Boil  them  from  an 
hour  to  two  hours,  according  to  their  size  and  freshness. 

Obs.  Parsnips  are  sometimes  sent  up  mashed  in  the  same 
way  as  turnips,  and  some  cooks  quarter  them  before  they 
boil  them.* 

Carrots.— (No.  129.) 

Let  them  be  well  washed  and  brushed,  not  scraped.  An 
hour  is  enough  for  young  spring  carrots  ;  grown  carrots  must 
be  cut  in  half,  and  will  take  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two 
hours  and  a  half.  When  done,  rub  off  the  peels  with  a  clean 
coarse  cloth,  and  slice  them  in  two  or  four,  according  to  their 
size.  The  best  way  to  try  if  they  are  done  enough,  is  to 
pierce  them  with  a  fork. 

Obs.  Many  people  are  fond  of  cold  carrot  with  cold  beef; 
ask  if  you  shall  cook  enough  for  some  to  be  left  to  send  up 
with  the  cold  meat. 

Turnips.— (No.  130.) 

Peel  off  half  an  inch  of  the  stringy  outside.  Full-grown 
turnips  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a  half  gentle  boiling ;  if 
you  slice  them,  which  most  people  do,  they  will  be  done 
sooner ;  try  them  with  a  fork ;  when  tender,  take  them  up,  and 
lay  them  on  a  sieve  till  the  water  is  thoroughly  drained  from 
them.  Send  them  up  whole  ;  do  not  slice  them. 

N.B.  To  very  young  turnips  leave  about  two  inches  of  the 
green  top.  See  No.  132. 

To  mash  Turnips.— (No.  131.) 

When  they  are  boiled  quite  tender,  squeeze  them  as  dry 
as  possible  between  two  trenchers ;  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan ;  mash  them  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  rub  them  through 

*  After  parsnips  are  boiled,  they  should  be  put  into  the  frying-pan  and  browned 
a  little.  Some  people  do  not  admire  this  vegetable,  on  account  of  its  sickish  sweet- 
ness. It  is,  however,  a  wholesome,  cheap,  and  nourishing  vegetable,  best  calculated 
for  the  table  in  winter  and  spring.  Its  sweetness  may  be  modified  by  mashing  with 
a  few  potatoes.  A. 


164  VEGETABLES. 

a  colander ;  add  a  little  bit  of  butter ;  keep  stirring  them  till 
the  butter  is  melted  and  well  mixed  with  them,  and  they  are 
ready  for  table. 

Turnip-tops,— (No.  132.) 

Are  the  shoots  which  grow  out  (in  the  spring)  of  the  old 
turnip-roots.  Put  them  into  cold  water  an  hour  before  they 
are  to  be  dressed ;  the  more  water  they  are  boiled  in,  the 
better  they  will  look ;  if  boiled  in  a  small  quantity  of  water 
they  will  taste  bitter :  when  the  water  boils,  put  in  a  small 
handful  of  salt,  and  then  your  vegetables ;  if  fresh  and  young, 
they  will  be  done  in  about  twenty  minutes ;  drain  them  on 
the  back  of  a  sieve. 

French  Beans.— (No.  133.) 

Cut  off  the  stalk  end  first,  and  then  turn  to  the  point  and 
strip  off  the  strings.  If  not  quite  fresh,  have  a  bowl  of  spring- 
water,  with  a  little  salt  dissolved  in  it,  standing  before  you, 
and  as  the  beans  are  cleaned  and  stringed,  throw  them  in. 
When  all  are  done,  put  them  on  the  fire  in  boiling  water,  with 
some  salt  in  it;  after  they  have  boiled  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes,  take  one  out  and  taste  it ;  as  soon  as  they  are  ten-t 
der  take  them  up ;  throw  them  into  a  colander  or  sieve  to 
drain. 

To  send  up  the  beans  whole  is  much  the  best  method  when 
they  are  thus  young,  and  their  delicate  flavour  and  colour  are 
much  better  preserved.  When  a  little  more  grown,  they 
must  be  cut  across  in  two  after  stringing ;  and  for  common 
tables  they  are  split,  and  divided  across;  cut  them  all  the 
same  length ;  but  those  who  are  nice  never  have  them  at  such 
a  growth  as  to  require  splitting. 

When  they  are  very  large  they  look  pretty  cut  into  lozenges. 

Obs.  See  N.B.  to  No.  125. 

Green  Pease.*— (No.  134.) 

Young  green  pease,  well  dressed,  are  among  the  most  deli- 
cious delicacies  of  the  vegetable  kingdom.  They  must  be 
young ;  it  is  equally  indispensable  that  they  be  fresh  gathered, 
and  cooked  as  soon  as  they  are  shelled  for  they  soon  lose 
both  their  colour  and  sweetness. 


*  These,  and  all  other  fruits  and  vegetables,  &c.,  by  Mr.  APPERT'S  plan,  it  is  said, 
may  be  preserved  for  twelve  months.  See  APPERT'S  Book,  12mo.  1812.  We  have 
eaten  of  several  specimens  of  preserved  pease,  which  looked  pretty  enough,— but 
flavour  they  had  none  at  all. 


VEGETABLES.  166 

If  you  wish  to  feast  upon  pease  in  perfection,  you  must 
have  them  gathered  the  same  day  they  are  dressed,  and  put 
on  to  boil  within  half  an  hour  after  they  are  shelled. 

Pass  them  through  a  riddle,  t.  e.  a  coarse  sieve,  which  is 
made  for  the  purpose  of  separating  them.  This  precaution 
is  necessary,  for  large  and  small  pease  cannot  be  boiled 
together,  as  the  former  will  take  more  time  than  the  latter. 

For  a  peck  of  pease,  set  on  a  sauce-pan  with  a  gallon  of 
water  in  it ;  when  it  boils,  put  in  your  pease,  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt ;  skim  it  well,  keep  them  boiling  quick  from 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  according  to  their  age  and  size. 
The  best  way  to  judge  of  their  being  done  enough,  and  indeed 
the  only  way  to  make  sure  of  cooking  them  to,  and  not 
beyond,  the  point  of  perfection,  or,  as  pea-eaters  say,  of 
"  boiling  them  to  a  bubble,"  is  to  take  them  out  with  a  spoon 
and  taste  them. 

When  they  are  done  enough,  drain  them  on  a  hair-sieve. 
If  you  like  them  buttered,  put  them  into  a  pie-dish,  divide 
some  butter  into  small  bits,  and  lay  them  on  the  pease ;  put 
another  dish  over  them,  and  turn  them  over  and  over ;  this 
will  melt  the  butter  through  them ;  but  as  all  people  do  not 
like  buttered  pease,  you  had  better  send  them  to  table  plain, 
as  they  come  out  of  the  sauce-pan,  with  melted  butter  (No. 
256)  in  a  sauce-tureen.  It  is  usual  to  boil  some  mint  with 
the  pease ;  but  if  you  wish  to  garnish  the  pease  with  mint, 
boil  a  few  sprigs  in  a  sauce-pan  by  themselves.  See  Sage 
and  Onion  Sauce  (No.  300),  and  Pea  Powder  (No.  458) ;  to 
boil  Bacon  (No.  13),  Slices  of  Ham  and  Bacon  (No.  526),  and 
Relishing  Rashers  of  Bacon  (No.  527). 

N.B.  A  peck  of  young  pease  will  not  yield  more  than 
enough  for  a  couple  of  hearty  pea-eaters ;  when  the  pods  are 
full,  it  may  serve  for  three. 

MEM.  Never  think  of  purchasing  pease  ready-shelled,  for 
the  cogent  reasons  assigned  in  the  first  part  of  this  receipt. 

Cucumbers  stewed.— {No.  135.) 

Peel  and  cut  cucumbers  in  quarters,  take  out  the  seeds, 
and  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain  off  the  water :  when  they 
are  dry,  flour  and  fry  them  in  fresh  butter ;  let  the  butter  be 
quite  hot  before  you  put  in  the  cucumbers ;  fry  them  till  they 
are  brown,  then  take  them  out  with  an  egg-slice,  and  lay 
them  on  a  sieve  to  drain  the  fat  from  them  (some  cooks  fry 
sliced  onions,  or  some  small  button  onions,  with  them,  till 
they  are  a  delicate  light-brown  colour,  drain  them  from  the 
fat,  and  then  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  as  much  gravy 


166  VEGETABLES. 

as  will  cover  them) :  stew  slowly  till  they  are  tender ;  take 
out  the  cucumbers  with  a  slice,  thicken  the  gravy  with  flour 
and  butter,  give  it  a  boil  up,  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  put  in  the  cucumbers ;  as  soon  as  they  are  warm,  they 
are  ready. 

The  above,  rubbed  through  a  tamis,  or  fine  sieve,  will  be 
entitled  to  be  called  "  cucumber  sauce."  See  No.  399,  Cu- 
cumber Vinegar.  This  is  a  very  favourite  sauce  with  lamb  i 
or  mutton-cutlets,  stewed  rump-steaks,  &c.  &c. :  when  made 
for  the  latter,  a  third  part  of  sliced  onion  is  sometimes  fried 
"with  the  cucumber.* 

Artichokes.— (No.  136.) 

Soak  them  in  cold  water,  wash  them  well,  then  put  them 
into  plenty  of  boiling  water,  with  a  handful  of  salt,  and  let 
them  boil  gently  till  they  are  tender,  which  will  take  an  hour 
and  a  half,  or  two  hours :  the  surest  way  to  know  when  they 
are  done  enough,  is  to  draw  out  a  leaf;  trim  them  and  drain 
them  on  a  sieve ;  and  send  up  melted  butter  with  them,  which 
some  put  into  small  cups,  so  that  each  guest  may  have  one. 

Stewed  Onions.— (No.  137.) 

The  large  Portugal  onions  are  the  best :  take  off  the  top- 
coats of  half  a  dozen  of  these  (taking  care  not  to  cut  off  the 
tops  or  tails  too  near,  or  the  onions  will  go  to  pieces),  and 
put  them  into  a  stew-pan  broad  enough  to  hold  them  without 
laying  them  atop  of  one  another,  and  just  cover  them  with 
good  broth. 

Put  them  over  a  slow  fire,  and  let  them  simmer  about  two 
hours ;  when  you  dish  them,  turn  them  upside  down,  and 
pour  the  sauce  over. 

Young  onions  stewed,  see  No.  296. 

Salads.— (No.  138*,  also  No.  372). 

Those  who  desire  to  see  this  subject  elaborately  illustrated, 
we  refer  to  "  EVELYN'S  Acetaria?  a  discourse  of  Sallets,  a 
12mo.  of  240  pages.  London,  1699. 

*  Cucumbers  may  be  cut  into  quarters  and  boiled  like  asparagus,  and  served  up 
with  toasted  bread  and  melted  butter.  This  is  a  most  delicate  way  of  preparing 
cucumbers  for  the  dinner-table,  and  they  are  a  most  luscious  article,  and  so  rich  and 
savoury  that  a  small  quantity  will  suffice. 

The  ordinary  method  of  cutting  cucumbers  into  slices  with  raw  onions,  served  up 
in  vinegar,  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  is  most  vulgar  and  most  unwhole- 
some. In  their  season  they  are  cheap  and  plenty ;  and  as  they  are  crude  and  unripe 
they  require  the  stomach  of  an  ostrich  to  digest  them.  They  cause  much  sickness 
in  their  season,  creating  choleras,  cramps,  and  dysenteries.  If  stewed  or  boiled  as 
above  directed,  they  would  be  more  nutritious  and  wholesome.  A. 


FISH.  167 

Mr.  E.  gives  us  "  an  account  of  seventy-two  herbs  proper 
and  fit  to  make  sallet  with ;"  and  a  table  of  thirty-five,  tell- 
ing their  seasons  and  proportions.  "  In  the  composure  of  a 
sallet,  every  plant  should  come  in  to  bear  its  part,  like  the 
notes  in  music :  thus  the  comical  Master  Cook  introduced  by 
Damoxenus,  when  asked,  *  what  harmony  there  was  in 
meats  ?'  *  the  very  same,'  says  he,  *  as  the  3d,  5th,  and  8th 
have  to  one  another  in  music :  the  main  skill  lies  in  this,  not 
to  mingle'  ('  sapores  minime  consentientes*).  '  Tastes  not  well 
joined,  inelegant,'  as  our  Paradisian  bard  directs  Eve,  when 
dressing  a  sallet  for  her  angelical  guest,  in  MILTON'S  Para- 
dise Lost." 

He  gives  the  following  receipt  for  the  oxoleon : — 

"  Take  of  clear  and  perfectly  good  oyl-olive  three  parts ; 
of  sharpest  vinegar  (sweetest  of  all  condiments,  for  it  incites 
appetite,  and  causes  hunger,  which  is  the  best  sauce),  limon, 
or  juice  of  orange,  one  part;  and  therein  let  steep  some 
•slices  of  horseradish,  with  a  little  salt.  Some,  in  a  separate 
vinegar,  gently  bruise  a  pod  of  Ginny  pepper,  and  strain  it 
to  the  other ;  then  add  as  much  mustard  as  will  lie  upon  a 
half-crown  piece.  Beat  and  mingle  these  well  together  with 
the  yelk  of  two  new-laid  eggs  boiled  hard,  and  pour  it  over 
your  sallet,  stirring  it  well  together.  The  super-curious 
insist  that  the  knife  with  which  sallet  herb  is  cut  must  be 
of  silver.  Some  who  are  husbands  of  their  oyl,  pour  at  first 
the  oyl  alone,  as  more  apt  to  communicate  and  diffuse  its 
slipperiness,  than  when  it  is  mingled  and  beaten  with  the 
acids,  which  they  pour  on  last  of  all ;  and  it  is  incredible  how 
small  a  quantity  of  oyl  thus  applied  is  sufficient  to  imbue  a 
very  plentiful  assembly  of  sallet  herbs." 

Obs.  Our  own  directions  to  prepare  and  dress  salads  will 
be  found  under  No.  372. 


FISH. 

See  Obs.  on  Codfish  after  No.  149. 
Turbot  to  6oi7.— (No.  140). 

THIS  excellent  fish  is  in  season  the  greatest  part  of  the 
summer ;  when  good,  it  is  at  once  firm  and  tender,  and  abounds 
with  rich  gelatinous  nutriment. 


168  FISH. 

Being  drawn,  and  washed  clean,  if  it  be  quite  fresh,  by 
rubbing  it  lightly  with  salt,  and  keeping  it  in  a  cold  place, 
you  may  in  moderate  weather  preserve  it  for  a  couple  of 
days.* 

An  hour  or  two  before  you  dress  it,  soak  it  in  spring- 
water  with  some  salt  in  it,  then  score  the  skin  across  the 
thickest  part  of  the  back,  to  prevent  its  breaking  on  the  breast, 
which  will  happen  from  the  fish  swelling,  and  cracking  the 
skin,  if  this  precaution  be  not  used.  Put  a  large  handful  of 
salt  into  a  fish-kettle  with  cold  water,  lay  your  fish  on  a  fish- 
strainer,  put  it  in,  and  when  it  is  coming  to  a  boil,  skim  it 
well ;  then  set  the  kettle  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  to  boil  as 
gently  as  possible  for  about  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  (if  it 
boils  fast,  the  fish  will  break  to  pieces) ;  supposing  it  a  mid- 
dling-sized turbot,  and  to  weigh  eight  or  nine  pounds. 

Rub  a  little  of  the  inside  red  coral  spawn  of  the  lobster 
through  a  hair  sieve,  without  butter ;  and  when  the  turbot 
is  dished,  sprinkle  the  spawn  over  it.  Garnish  the  dish 
with  sprigs  of  curled  parsley,  sliced  lemon,  and  finely-scraped 
horseradish. 

If  you  like  to  send  it  to  table  in  full  dress,  surround  it 
with  nicely-fried  smelts  (No.  173),  gudgeons  are  often  used 
for  this  purpose,  and  may  be  bought  very  cheap  when  smelts 
are  very  dear ;  lay  the  largest  opposite  the  broadest  part  of 
the  turbot,  so  that  they  may  form  a  well-proportioned  fringe 
for  it;  or  oysters  (No.  183*) ;  or  cut  a  sole  in  strips,  cross- 
ways,  about  the  size  of  a  smelt ;  fry  them  as  directed  in  No. 
145,  and  lay  them  round.  Send  up  lobster  sauce  (No.  284) ; 
two  boats  of  it,  if  it  is  for  a  large  party. 

N.B.  Cold  turbot,  with  No.  372  for  sauce ;  or  take  off  the 
fillets  that  are  left  as  soon  as  the  turbot  returns  from  table, 
and  they  will  make  a  side  dish  for  your  next  dinner,  warmed 
in  No.  364—2. 

Obs.  The  thickest  part  is  the  favourite ;  and  the  carver  of 

*  "I  have  ascertained,  by  many  years'  observation,  that  a  turbot  kept  two  or  three 
days  is  much  better  eating  than  a  very  fresh  one." — UDE'S  Cookery,  p.  238. 

"  TURBOTS.  The  finest  brought  to  the  London  market  arc  caught  off  the  Dutch 
coast,  or  German  Ocean,  and  are  brought  in  well-boats  alive.  The  commencement 
of  the  season  is  generally  about  March  and  April,  and  continues  all  the  summer. 
Turbots,  like  other  fish,  do  not  spawn  all  at  the  same  time ;  therefore, Ithere  is  always 
good  and  bad  nearly  all  the  year  round.  For  this  year  or  two  past,  there  has  been 
an  immense  quantity  brought  to  London,  from  all  parts,  and  of  all  qualities :  a  great 
many  from  a  new  fishery  off  Hartlepool,  which  are  very  handsome-looking  turbot, 
but  by  no  means  equal  to  what  are  caught  off  the  Dutch  coast.  Many  excellent 
turbots  are  caught  off  Dover  and  Dungeness;  and  a  large  quantity  brought  from 
Scotland,  packed  in  ice,  which  are  of  a  very  inferior  quality,  and  are  generally  to 
be  bought  for  about  one-fourth  the  price  of  good  turbots. 

"  Brills  are  generally  caught  at  the  same  place  as  turbots,  and  are  generally  of  the 
same  uality  as  the  turbot,  from  the  different  parts." 


FISH.  1-69 

this  fish  must  remember  to  ask  his  friends  if  they  are  fin- 
fanciers.  It  will  save  a  troublesome  job  to  the  carver,  if 
the  cook,  when  the  fish  is  boiled,  cuts  the  spine-bone  across 
the  middle. 

Ji  Brill,— (No.  143.) 
Is  dressed  the  same  way  as  a  turbot. 

Soles  to  boil— (No.  144.) 

A  fine,  fresh,  thick  sole  is  almost  as  good  eating  as  a 
turbot. 

Wash  and  clean  it  nicely ;  put  it  into  a  fish-kettle  with  a 
handful  of  salt,  and  as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover  it ;  set 
it  on  the  side  of  the  fire,  take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises,  and 
let  it  boil  gently ;  about  five  minutes  (according  to  its  size) 
will  be  long  enough,  unless  it  be  very  large.  Send  it  up  on 
a  fish-drainer,  garnished  with  slices  of  lemon  and  sprigs 
of  curled  parsley,  or  nicely-fried  smelts  (No.  173),  or  oys- 
ters (No.  183). 

Obs.  Slices  of  lemon  are  a  universally  acceptable  garnish 
with  either  fried  or  broiled  fish:  a  few  sprigs  of  crisp 
parsley  may  be  added,  if  you  wish  to  make  it  look  very 
smart ;  and  parsley,  or  fennel  and  butter,  are  excellent 
sauces  (see  Nos.  261  and  265),  or  chervil  sauce  (No.  264)? 
anchovy  (No.  270). 

N.B.  Boiled  soles  are  very  good  warmed  up  like  eels, 
Wiggy's  way  (No.  164),  or  covered  with  white  sauce  (No, 
a64— 2 ;  and  see  No.  158). 

Soles,  or  other  Fish,  to  fry.— (No.  145.) 

Soles  are  generally  to  be  procured  good  from  some  part 
of  the  coast,  as  some  are  going  out  of  season,  and  some 
coming  in,  both  at  the  same  time ;  a  great  many  are  brought 
in  well-boats  alive,  that  are  caught  off  Dover  and  Folk- 
stone,  and  some  are  brought  from  the  same  places  by  land- 
carriage.  The  finest  soles  are  caught  off  Plymouth,  near 
the  Eddystone,  and  all  the  way  up  the  channel,  and  to  Tor- 
bay  ;  and  frequently  weigh  eight  or  ten  pounds  per  pair : 
they  are  generally  brought  by  water  to  Portsmouth,  and 
thence  by  land;  but  the  greatest  quantity  are  caught  off 
Yarmouth  and  the  Knole,  and  off  the  Forelands. 

Be  sure  they  are  quite  fresh,  or  the  cleverest  cook  cannot 
make  them  either  look  or  eat  well. 

An  hour  before  you  intend  to  dress  them,  wash  them 
P 


170  FISH. 

thoroughly,  and  wrap  them  in  a  clean  cloth,  to  make  them 
perfectly  dry,  or  the  bread-crumbs  will  not  stick  to  them. 

Prepare  some  bread-crumbs,*  by  rubbing-  some  stale  bread 
through  a  colander ;  or,  if  you  wish  the  fish  to  appear  very 
delicate  and  highly-finished,  through  a  hair-sieve;  or  use 
biscuit  powder. 

Beat  the  yelk  and  white  of  an  egg  well  together,  on  a 
plate,  with  a  fork ;  flour  your  fish,  to  absorb  any  moisture 
that  may  remain,  and  wipe  it  off  with  a  clean  cloth ;  dip 
them  in  the  egg  on  both  sides  all  over,  or,  what  is  better, 
egg  them  with  a  paste-brush ;  put  the  egg  on  in  an  even 
degree  over  the  whole  fish,  or  the  bread-crumbs  will  not 
stick  to  it  even,  and  the  uneven  part  will  burn  to  the  pan. 
Strew  the  bread-crumbs  all  over  the  fish,  so  that  they 
cover  every  part,  take  up  the  fish  by  the  head,  and  shake 
off  the  loose  crumbs.  The  fish  is  now  ready  for  the  fry- 
ing-pan. 

Put  a  quart  or  more  of  fresh  sweet  olive-oil,  or  clarified 
butter  (No.  259),  dripping  (No.  83),  lard,f  or  clarified  drip- 
pings (No.  83) ;  be  sure  they  are  quite  sweet  and  perfectly 
clean  (the  fat  ought  to  cover  the  fish)  :  what  we  here  order 
is  for  soles  about  ten  inches  long ;  if  larger,  cut  them  into 
pieces  the  proper  size  to  help  at  table ;  this  will  save  much 
time  and  trouble  to  the  carver:  when  you  send  them  to 
table,  lay  them  in  the  same  form  they  were  before  they  were 
cut,  and  you  may  strew  a  little  curled  parsley  over  them : 
they  are  much  easier  managed  in  the  frying-pan,  and  require 
less  fat :  fry  the  thick  part  a  few  minutes  before  you  put  in 
the  thin,  you  can  by  this  means  only  fry  the  \hick  part 
enough,  without  frying  the  thin  too  much.  Very  large 
soles  should  be  boiled  (No.  144),  or  fried  in  fillets  (No. 
147).  Soles  cut  in  pieces,  crossways,  about  the  size  of  a 
smelt,  make  a  very  pretty  garnish  for  stewed  fish  and 
boiled  fish. 

Set  the  frying-pan  over  a  sharp  and  clear  fire ;  watch  it, 
skim  it  with  an  egg-slice,  and  when  it  boils,J  i.  e.  when  it 
has  done  bubbling,  and  the  smoke  just  begins  to  rise  from 
the  surface,  put  in  the  fish:  if  the  fat  is  not  extremely 
hot,  it  is  impossible  to  fry  fish  of  a  good  colour,  or  to  keep 

*  A  large  pair  of  soles  will  take  the  fourth  part  of  a  quartern  loaf,  which  now 
costs  twopence  halfpenny.  OATMEAL  is  a  good  substitute  for  bread  crumbs,  and 
costs  comparatively  nothing ! ! 

t  The  FAT  will  do  two  or  three  times,  if  strained  through  a  hair-sieve,  and  pnl 
by;  if  you  do  not  find  it  enough,  put  a  little  fresh  to  it.  Read  No.  83,  and  the  3d 
chapter  of  the  Rudiments  of  Cookery. 

$  This  requires  a  heat  of  upwards  of  600  degrees  of  Fahrenheit's  thermometer : 
-TRYING  is,  in  fact,  boiling  in  fat. 


FISH.  17  f 

them  firm  and  crisp.  (Read  the  3d  chapter  of  the  Rudi* 
merits  of  Cookery.) 

The  best  way  to  ascertain  the  heat  of  the  fat,  is  to  try  it 
with  a  bit  of  bread  as  big  as  a  nut ;  if  it  is  quite  hot  enough, 
the  bread  will  brown  immediately.  Put  in  the  fish,  and  it 
will  be  crisp  and  brown  on  the  side  next  the  fire,  in  about 
four  or  five  minutes ;  to  turn  it,  stick  a  two-pronged  fork  near 
the  head,  and  support  the  tail  with  a  fish-slice,  and  fry  the 
other  side  nearly  the  same  length  of  time. 

Fry  one  sole  at  a  time,  except  the  pan  is  very  large,  atld 
you  have  plenty  of  fat. 

When  the  fish  are  fried,  lay  them  on  a  soft  cloth  (old  table- 
cloths are  best),  near  enough  the  fire  to  keep  them  warm; 
turn  them  every  two  or  three  minutes,  till  they  are  quite  dry 
on  both  sides ;  this  common  cooks  commonly  neglect.  It 
will  take  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,*  if  the  fat  you  fried  them  in 
was  not  hot  enough ;  when  it  is,  they  want  very  little  drying. 
When  soles  are  fried,  they  will  keep  very  good  in  a  dry  place 
for  three  or  four  days ;  warm  them  by  hanging  them  on  the 
hooks  in  a  Dutch  oven,  letting  them  heat  very  gradually,  by- 
putting  it  some  distance  from  the  fire  for  about  twenty  mi- 
nutes, or  in  good  gravy,  as  eels,  Wiggy's  way  (Nos.  164, 299, 
337,  or  356). 

Obs.  There  are  several  general  rules  in  this  receipt  which 
apply  to  all  fried  fish :  we  have  been  very  particular  and 
minute  in  our  directions;  for,  although  a  fried  sole  is  so 
frequent  and  favourite  a  dish,  it  is  very  seldom  brought  to 
table  in  perfection.! 

Soks  to  stew.— (No.  146.) 

These  are  half  fried,  and  then  done  the  same  as  eels, 
Wiggy's  way.  See  No.  164. 

Fillets  of  Soles,  brown  or  "white. — (No.  147.) 
Take  off  the  fillets  very  nicely,  trim  them  neatly,  and 

*  If  you  are  in  haste,  lay  the  sole  on  a  clean,  soft  cloth,  cover  it  with  it,  and  gently 
press  it  upou  the  fish,  to  suck  up  the  fat  from  its  surface. 

f  The  very  indifferent  manner  in  which  the  operation  of  frying  fish  is  usually 
performed,  we  suppose,  produced  the  following  jeu  d1  esprit,  which  appeared  in  The 
Morning  Chronicle : — 

"The  King's  bench  reports  have  cook'd  up  an  odd  dish, 
An  action  for  damages,  fry  versus  fish. 
But,  sure,  if  for  damages  action  could  lie, 
It  certainly  must  have"  been  fish  against  fry." 

The  author  of  The  Cook's  Cookery,  8vo.  page  116,  does  not  seem  to  think  this  fisfc 
can  be  too  fresh ;  for  he  commences  his  directions  with,  "  Jf  you  can,  get  a  cod  i»< 
<»ut  of  the  sea,"  &c, 


172  PISH. 

press  them  dry  between  a  soft  cloth ;  egg,  crumb,  and  fry 
them,  &c.  as  directed  in  No.  145,  or  boil  them,  and  serve 
them  with  No.  364—2. 

N.B.  This  is  one  of  the  best  ways  of  dressing  very  large 
soles.  See  also  No.  164. 

Skate*— (No.  148.) 

Is  very  good  when  in  good  season,  but  no  fish  so  bad  when 
it  is  otherwise  :  those  persons  that  like  it  firm  and  dry,  should 
have  it  crimped ;  but  those  that  like  it  tender,  should  have 
it  plain,  and  eat  it  not  earlier  than  the  second  day,  and  if 
cold  weather,  three  or  four  days  old  it  is  better :  it  cannot  be 
kept  too  long,  if  perfectly  sweet.  Young  skate  eats  very 
fine  crimped  and  fried.  See  No.  154. 

Cod  boiled.— (No.  1490 

Wash  and  clean  the  fish,  and  rub  a  little  salt  in  the  inside 
of  it  (if  the  weather  is  very  cold,  a  large  cod  is  the  better 
for  being  kept  a  day):  put  plenty  of  water  in  your  fish- 
kettle,  so  that  the  fish  may  be  well  covered ;  put  in  a  large 
handful  of  salt ;  and  when  it  is  dissolved,  put  in  your  fish ; 
a  very  small  fish  will  require  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes 
after  the  water  boils,  a  large  one  about  half  an  hour ;  drain 
it  on  the  fish-plate ;  dish  it  with  a  garnish  of  the  roe,  liver, 
chitterlings,  &c.  or  large  native  oysters,  fried  a  light  brown 
(see  No.  183*),  or  smelts  (No.  173),  whitings  (No.  153),  the 
tailf  of  the  cod  cut  in  slices,  or  bits  the  size  and  shape  of 

*  The  skate  comes  to  the  New- York  market  in  the  spring,  but  is  not  esteemed, 
as  we  have  many  better  fish.  The  part  about  the  flap  or  side-fin  is  best.  A. 

t  The  TAIL  is  so  much  thinner  than  the  thick  part  of  the  body,  that,  if  boiled  to- 
gether, the  former  will  be  boiled  too  much,  before  the  latter  is  done  enough ;  there- 
fore it  should  be  dressed  separate ;  and  the  best  way  of  cooking  it  is  to  fry  it  in  slices 
or  fillets.  See  No.  151. 

"  Cod  generally  comes  into  good  season  in  October,  when,  if  the  weather  is  cold, 
it  eats  as  fine  as  at  any  time  in  the  year;  towards  the  latter  end  of  January  and 
February,  and  part  of  March,  they  are  mostly  poor;  but  the  latter  end  of  March, 
April,  and  May,  they  are  generally  particularly  fine ;  having  shot  their  spawn,  they 
«:ome  in  fine  order.  The  Dogger-bank  cod  are  the  most  esteemed,  as  they  gene- 
rally cut  in  large,  fine  flakes;  the  north-country  cod,  which  are  caught  off  the 
Orkney  Isles,  are  generally  very  stringy,  or  what  is  commonly  called  woolly^  and 
sell  at  a  very  inferior  price,  but  are  caught  in  much  greater  abundance  than  the 
Dogger  cod.  The  cod  are  all  caught  with  hook,  and  brought  alive  in  well- boats  to 
the  London  markets.  The  cod  cured  on  the  Dogger-bank  is  remarkably  fine,  and 
seldom  cured  above  two  or  three  weeks  before  brought  to  market ;  the  barrel  cod  is 
commonly  cured  on  the  coast  of  Scotland  and  Yorkshire.  There  is  a  great  deal  of 
inferior  cured  salt-fish  brought  from  Newfoundland  and  Iceland. 

"  The  SKULL  of  a  Dogger-bank  cod  is  one  of  those  concatenations  of  tit-bits 
which  some  epicures  are  fond  of,  either  baked  or  boiled :  it  is  composed  of  lots  of 
pretty  playthings  or  such  finery,  but  will  not  do  for  those  who  want  a  good  meal :  it 
may  be  bought  for  about  2s. :  either  boii  it  whole,  or  cut  it  into  pieces,  flour  and  dry 
them,  and  then  egg  and  crumb,  and  fry  them,  or  stew  it  (No.  158). 


FISH.  173 

oysters,  or  split  it,  and  fry  it.  Scolloped  oysters  (No.  182), 
oyster  sauce  (No.  278),  slices  of  cod  cut  about  half  an 
inch  thick,  and  fried  as  soles  (NO.  145),  are  very  nice. 

MEM.— The  SOUNDS  (the  jelly  parts  about  the  jowl),  the 
palate,  and  the  tongue  are  esteemed  exquisites  by  pisci- 
vorous epicures,  whose  longing  eyes  will  keep  a  sharp 
look-out  for  a  share  of  their  favourite  "  bonne  louche :"  the 
carver's  reputation  depends  much  on  his  equitable  distribu- 
tion of  them.* 

Salt  Fish  boilea.— (No.  150.) 

Salt  fish  requires  soaking,  according  to  the  time  it  has 
been  in  salt ;  trust  not  to  those  you  buy  it  of,  but  taste  a  bit 
of  one  of  the  flakes ;  that  which  is  hard  and  dry  requires 
two  nights'  soaking,  changing  the  water  two  or  three  times  ; 
the  intermediate  day,  lay  it  on  a  stone  floor :  for  barrelled 
cod  less  time  will  do ;  and  for  the  best  Dogger-bank  split 
fish,  which  has  not  been  more  than  a  fortnight  or  three 
weeks  in  salt,  still  less  will  be  needful. 

Put  it  into  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  let  it  simmer  very 
gently  till  it  is  enough ;  if  the  water  boils,  the  fish  will  be 
tough  and  thready  .f  For  egg  sauce,  see  No.  267 ;  and  to 
boil  red  beet-root,  No.  127;  parsnips,  No.  128;  Carrots, 
No.  129.  Garnish  salt  fish  with  the  yelks  of  eggs  cut  into 
quarters. 

Obs. — Our  favourite  vegetable  accompaniment  is  a  dish  of 
equal  parts  of  red  beet-root  and  parsnips. 

N.B.  Salted  fish  differs  in  quality  quite  as  much  as  it 
does  in  price. 

"  The  TAIL  of  a  cod  cut  in  fillets  or  slices,  and  fried,  makes  a  good  dish,  and  is 
generally  to  be  bought  at  a  very  reasonable  rate ;  if  boiled,  it  is  soft  and  watery. 
The  skull  and  tail  of  a  cod  is  a  favourite  and  excellent  Scotch  dish,  stewed,  and 
served  up  with  anchovy  or  oyster  sauce,  with  the  liquor  it  is  boiled  in,  in  a  tureen. 

"  Ling  is  brought  to  the  London  market  in  the  same  manner  as  cod,  but  is  very 
inferior  to  it,  either  fresh  or  salt." 

*  There  are  several  species  of  codfish  sold  alive  in  the  New  York  markets:  of 
these,  the  common  cod  is  the  best,  and  is  in  season  from  November  till  spring. 
The  price  varies  from  three  to  six  cents  the  pound,  as  the  market  is  well  or  scantily 
supplied.  The  head  and  shoulders  of  a  large  cod,  boiled,  is  the  best  part  to  grace  the 
dinner-table.  It  is  full  of  rich  gelatinous  matter,  which  is  savoury  and  easy  pt 
digestion.  Cod's  sounds  and  tongues  are  found  on  the  stalls  of  the  fishmongers  in 
the  winter  season.  They  are  rich  and  nourishing,  and  may  be  prepared  to  garnish 
the  dish,  or  served  up  separately  boiled.  A 

t  "  In  the  sea-port  towns  of  the  New-England  states  in  North  America,  it  has 
been  a  custom,  time  immemorial,  among  people  of  fashion,  to  dine  one  day  in  the 
week  (Saturday)  on  salt  fish  ;  and  a  long  habit  of  preparing  the  same  dish  has,  as 
might  have  been  expected,  led  to  very  considerable  improvements  in  the  art  ot' 
cooking  it.  I  have  often  heard  foreigners  declare,  that  they  never  tasted  salt  fish 
dressed  in  such  perfection :  the  secret  of  cooking  it,  is  to  keep  it  for  several  hours 
in  water  that  is  jus*  scalding  hot,  but  which  is  never  made  actually  to  boil."- 
COUNT  RUMFORD'S  10th.  Essay,  p.  18. 

P2 


174  FISH. 

Slices  of  Cod  boiled.— (No.  151.) 

Half  an  hour  before  you  dress  them,  put  them  into  cold 
spring-water  with  some  salt  in  it. 

Lay  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  fish-kettle,  with  as  much 
cold  spring-water  as  will  cover  them,  and  some  salt ;  set  it 
on  a  quick  fire,  and  when  it  boils,  skim  it,  and  set  it  on  one 
side  of  the  fire  to  boil  very  gently,  for  about  ten  minutes, 
according  to  its  size  and  thickness.  Garnish  with  scraped 
horseradish,  slices  of  lemon,  and  a  slice  of  the  liver  on  one 
side,  and  chitterling  on  the  other.  Oyster  sauce  (No.  278), 
and  plain  butter. 

Obs. — Slices  of  cod  (especially  the  tail,  split)  are  very 
good,  fried  like  soles  (No.  145),  or  stewed  in  gravy  like  eels 
(No.  164,  or  No.  364—2).* 

Fresh  Sturgeon.— (No.  152.) 

The  best  mode  of  dressing  this,  is  to  have  it  cut  in  thin 
slices  like  veal  cutlets,  and  broiled,  and  rubbed  over  with 
a  bit  of  butter  and  a  little  pepper,  and  served  very  hot,  and 
eaten  with  a  squeeze  of  lemon-juice.  Great  care,  however, 
must  be  taken  to  cut  off  the  skin  before  it  is  broiled,  as  the 
oil  in  the  skin,  if  burned,  imparts  a  disgusting  flavour  to  the 
fish.  The  flesh  is  very  fine,  and  comes  nearer  to  veal,  perhaps, 
than  even,  turtle. 

Sturgeon  is  frequently  plentiful  and  reasonable  in  the 
London  shops.  We  prefer  this  mode  of  dressing  it  to  the* 
more  savoury  one  of  stewing  it  in  rich  gravy,  like  carp,  &c. 
which  overpowers  the  peculiar  flavour  of  the  fish.f 

Whitings  fried.— (No.  153.) 

Skin;}  them,  preserve  the  liver  (see  No.  228),  and  fasten 
their  tails  to  their  mouths  ;  dip  them  in  egg,  then  in  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  them  in  hot  lard  (read  No.  145),  or  split 
them,  and  fry  them  like  fillets  of  soles  (No.  147). 

A  three-quart  stew-pan,  half  full  of  fat,  is  the  best  utensi) 
to  fry  whitings.  They  will  be  done  enough  in  about  five 

*  That  part  of  a  cod  which  is  near  the  tail,  is  considered,  in  America,  as  the 
poorest  part  of  the  fish.  A . 

t  Sturgeons,  though  sea-fish,  ascend  the  fresh  water  rivers,  and  in  the  Hudson  are 
taken  80  miles  above  the  salt  water.  They  were  formerly  called  Albany  heel, 
having  been  in  plenty  and  cheap  in  the  market  of  that  city.  They  are  not,  how 
aver,  esteemed  even  there ;  and  since  the  running  of  the  steamboats,  and  the  quick 
ness  of  their  passages,  all  the  valuable  fish  of  the  sea-coast  are  found  in  that  inland 
city.  A. 

i  The  French  do  not  flay  them,  but  split  them,  dip  them  in  flour,  and  fry  them  iti 
hot  dripping. 


FISH.  175 

minutes ;  but  it  will  sometimes  require  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
to  drain  the  fat  from  them  and  dry  them  (if  the  fat  you  put 
them  into  was  not  hot  enough),  turning  them  now  and  then 
with  a  fish-slice. 

Obs.— When  whitings  are  scarce,  the  fishmongers  can 
skin  and  truss  young  codlings,  so  that  you  can  hardly  tell 
the  difference,  except  that  a  codling  wears  a  beard,  and  a 
whiting  does  not:  this  distinguishing  mark  is  sometimes 
cut  off;  however,  if  you  turn  up  his  jowl,  you  may  see  the 
mark  where  the  beard  was,  and  thus  discover  whether  he  be 
a  real  whiting,  or  a  shaved  codling. 

Skate  fried.— (No.  154.) 

After  you  have  cleaned  the  fish,  divide  it  into  fillets ;  dry 
them  on  a  clean  cloth ;  beat  the  yelk  and  white  of  an  egg 
thoroughly  together,  dip  the  fish  in  this,  and  then  in  fine 
bread-crumbs ;  fry  it  in  hot  lard  or  drippings  till  it  is  of  a 
delicate  brown  colour;  lay  it  on  a  hair-sieve  to  drain ;  garnish 
with  crisp  parsley  (No.  318),  and  some  like  caper  sauce, 
with  an  anchovy  in  it. 

Plaice  or  Flounders,  fried  or  boiled.— (No.  155.) 

Flounders  are  perhaps  the  most  difficult  fish  to  fry  very 
nicely.  Clean  them  well,  flour  them,  and  wipe  them  with  a 
dry  cloth  to  absorb  all  the  water  from  them ;  flour  or  egg 
and  bread-crumb  them,  &c.  as  directed  in  No.  145. 

To  boil  Flounders. 

Wash  and  clean  them  well,  cut  the  black  side  of  them 
the  same  as  you  do  turbot,  then  put  them  into  a  fish- 
kettle,  with  plenty  of  cold  water  and  a  handful  of  salt ; 
when  they  come  to  a  boil,  skim  them  clean,  and  let  them 
stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  and  they  are 
ready. 

06s. — Eaten  with  plain  melted  butter  and  a  little  salt,  you 
have  the  sweet  delicate  flavour  of  the  flounder,  which  is 
overpowered  by  any  sauce. 

Water  Souchy*— (No.  156.) 
Is  made  with  flounders,  whitings,  gudgeons,  or  eels.   These 

*  One  of  my  culinary  counsellors  says,  the  heading  of  this  receipt  should  be, 
-lHow  to  dress  a  good  dish  of  fish  while  Uie  cloth  is  laying^  If  the  articles  are 
ready,  twelve  minutes  will  do  it,  with  very  little  trouble  or  expense.  For  richer 
slewed  fish,  see  No.  164.J 


176  FISH. 

must  be  quite  fresh,  and  very  nicely  cleaned ;  for  what  they 
are  boiled  in,  is  the  sauce  for  them. 

Wash,  gut,  and  trim  your  fish,  cut  them  into  handsome 
pieces,  and  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  just  as  much  water 
as  will  cover  them,  with  some  parsley,  or  parsley-roots 
sliced,  an  onion  minced  fine,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt 
(to  this  some  cooks  add  some  scraped  horseradish  and  a 
bay  leaf) ;  skim  it  carefully  when  it  boils ;  when  your  fish 
is  done  enough  (which  it  will  be  in  a  few  minutes),  send  it 
up  in  a  deep  dish,  lined  with  bread  sippets,  and  some  slices 
of  bread  and  butter  on  a  plate. 

Obs. — Some  cooks  thicken  the  liquor  the  fish  has  been 
stewing  in  with  flour  and  butter,  and  flavour  it  with  white 
wine,  lemon-juice,  essence  of  anchovy,  and  catchup;  and 
boil  down  two  or  three  flounders,  &e.  to  make  a  fish  broth 
to  boil  the  other  fish  in,  observing,  that  the  broth  cannot  bo 
good  unless  the  fish  are  boiled  too  much. 

Haddock  boiled.— (No.  157.) 

Wash  it  well,  and  put  it  on  to  boil,  as  directed  in  No.  149 ; 
a  haddock  of  three  pounds  will  take  about  ten  minutes  after 
the  kettle  boils. 

Haddocks,  salted  a  day  or  two,  are  eaten  with  egg  sauce, 
or  cut  in  fillets,  and  fried.  Or,  if  small,  very  well  broiled, 
or  baked,  with  a  pudding  in  their  belly,  and  some  good 
gravy. 

Obs.  A  piscivorous  epicure  protests  that  "  Haddock  is  the 
poorest  fish  that  swims,  and  has  neither  the  delicacy  of  the 
whiting,  nor  the  juicyness  of  the  cod."* 

Findhorn  Haddocks.— (No.  157*.) 

Let  the  fish  be  well  cleaned,  and  laid  in  salt  for  two 
hours ;  let  the  water  drain  from  them,  and  then  wet  them 
with  the  pyroligneous  acid ;  they  may  be  split  or  not :  they 
are  then  to  be  hung  in  a  dry  situation  for  a  day  or  two,  or  H 
week  or  two,  if  you  please ;  when  broiled,  they  have  all  the 
flavour  of  the  Findhorn  haddock,  and  will  keep  sweet  for  a 
long  time. 

The  pyroligneous  acid,  applied  in  the  same  way  to  beef  or 
mutton,  gives  the  fine  smoke  flavour,  and  may  be  kept  for  a 
considerable  length  of  time. 

Scotch  way  of  dressing  haddocks. — A  haddock,  is  quite  likr 
a  different  fish  in  London  and  in  Edinburgh,  which  arises 

*  Our  experience  goes  to  substantiate  the  svime  point.    A. 


FISH.  177 

chiefly  from  the  manner  in  which  they  are  treated :  a  haddock 
should  never  appear  at  table  with  its  head  and  skin  on.  For 
boiling1,  they  are  all  the  better  for  lying  a  night  in  salt ;  of 
course  they  do  not  take  so  long  to  boil  without  the  skin,  and 
require  to  be  well  skimmed  to  preserve  the  colour.  After 
lying  in  salt  for  a  night,  if  you  hang  them  up  for  a  day  or 
two,  they  are  very  good  broiled  and  served  with  cold  butter. 
For  frying,  they  should  be  split  and  boned  very  carefully, 
and  divided  into  convenient  pieces,  if  too  large  to  halve 
merely ;  egg  and  crumb  them,  and  fry  in  a  good  deal  of  lard ; 
they  resemble  soles  when  dressed  in  this  manner.  There  is 
another  very  delicate  mode  of  dressing  them ;  you  split  the 
fish,  rub  it  well  with  butter,  and  do  it  before  the  fire  in  a 
Dutch  oven. 

To  stew  Cod's  Skull,  Sole,  Carp,  Trout,  Perch,  Eel,  or 
Flounder.— No.  158.     (See  also  No.  164.) 

When  the  fish  has  been  properly  washed,  lay  it  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  half  a  pint  of  claret  or  port  wine,  and  a  quart  of 
good  gravy  (No.  329) ;  a  large  onion,  a  dozen  berries  of 
black  pepper,  the  same  of  allspice,  and  a  few  cloves,  or  a 
bit  of  mace:  cover  the  fish-kettle  close,  and  let  it  stew 
gently  for  ten  or  twenty  minutes,  according  to  the  thickness 
of  the  fish :  take  the  fish  up,  lay  it  on  a  hot  dish,  cover  it  up, 
and  thicken  the  liquor  it  was  stewed  in  with  a  little  flour, 
and  season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  essence  of  anchovy,  mush- 
room catchup,  and  a  little  Chili  vinegar ;  when  it  has  boiled 
ten  minutes,  strain  it  through  a  tamis,  and  pour  it  over  the 
fish :  if  there  is  more  sauce  than  the  dish  will  hold,  send  the 
rest  up  in  a  boat. 

The  river  trout  comes  into  season  in  April,  and  continues 
till  July ;  it  is  a  delicious  fish ;  those  caught  near  Uxbridge 
come  to  town  quite  alive. 

The  eels  and  perch  from  the  same  water  are  very  fm&* 

Obs. — These  fish  are  very  nice  plain  boiled,  with  No.  26If 
or  No.  264,  for  sauce ;  some  cooks  dredge  them  with  flour, 
and  fry  them  a  light  brown  before  they  put  them  on  to 
stew,  and  stuff  them  with  No.  374,  or  some  of  the  stuffings 
following. 

To  dress  them  maigre. 

Put  the  fish  into  a  stew-pan,  with  a  large  onion,  four 
cloves,  fifteen  berries  of  allspice,  and  the  same  of  black 
pepper ;  just  cover  them  with  boiling  water,  set  it  where 
they  will  simmer  gently  for  ten  or  twenty  minutes,  accord- 


178  FISH. 

ing  to  the  size  of  the  fish ;  strain  off  the  liquor  in  another 
stew-pan,  leaving  the  fish  to  keep  warm  till  the  sauce  is 
ready. 

Rub  together  on  a  plate  as  much  flour  and  butter  as  will 
make  the  sauce  as  thick  as  a  double  cream.  Each  pint  of 
sauce  season  with  a  glass  of  wine,  half  as  much  mushroom 
catchup,  a  tea-spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  and  a  few 
grains  of  Cayenne ;  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes,  put  the  fish  on 
a  deep  dish,  strain  the  gravy  over  it ;  garnish  it  with  sippets 
of  bread  toasted  or  fried  (No.  319). 

N.B.  The  editor  has  paid  particular  attention  to  the  above 
receipt,  and  also  to  No.  224,  which  Catholics,  and  those 
whose  religious  tenets  do  not  allow  them  to  eat  meat  on 
maigre  days,  will  find  a  very  satisfactory  substitute  for  the 
meat  gravy  soup  (No.  200). 

For  sauce  for  maigre  dishes,  see  Nos.  225,  305,  and 
364—2. 

Obs.  Mushroom  catchup  (No.  439)  and  onions  (No.  402) 
supply  the  place  of  meat  better  than  any  thing;  if  you  have 
not  these,  wine,  spice  (No.  457),  curry  powder  (No.  455). 
aromatic  roots  and  herbs,  anchovy  and  soy,  or  oyster  catchup 
(No.  441),  variously  combined,  and  thickened  with  flour  and 
butter,  are  convenient  substitutes. 


Maigre  Fish  Pies. 

Salt-fish  pie.  The  thickest  part  must  be  chosen,  and  pur 
in  cold  water  to  soak  the  night  before  wanted ;  then  boil  it 
well,  take  it  up,  take  away  the  bones  and  skin,  and  if  it  i^ 
good  fish  it  will  be  in  fine  layers ;  set  it  on  a  fish-drainer  to 
get  cold :  in  the  mean  time,  boil  four  eggs  hard,  peel  and  slice 
them  very  thin,  the  same  quantity  of  onion  sliced  thin;  line 
the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with  fish  forcemeat  (No.  383),  or  a 
layer  of  potatoes  sliced  thin,  then  a  layer  of  onions,  then  o! 
fish,  and  of  eggs,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  is  full ;  season  each 
layer  with  a  little  pepper,  then  mix  a  tea-spoonful  of  made 
mustard,  the  same  of  essence  of  anchovy,  a  little  mushroom 
catchup,  in  a  gill  of  water,  put  it  in  the  dish,  then  put  on  the 
top  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter  broke  in  bits ;  cover  it  with  puff 
paste,  and  bake  it  one  hour. 

Fresh  cod  may  be  done  in  the  same  way,  by  adding  a  little 
salt. 

All  fish  for  making  pies,  whether  soles,  flounders,  herrings, 
salmon,  lobster,  eels,  trout,  tench,  &c.  should  be  dressed 
first;  this  is  the  most  economical  way  for  Catholic  families. 


FISH.  179 

as  what  is  boiled  one  day  will  make  excellent  pies  or  patties 
the  next. 

If  you  intend  it  for  pies,  take  the  skin  off,  and  the  bones 
out ;  lay  your  salmon,  soles,  turbot,  or  codfish,  in  layers,  and 
season  each  layer  with  equal  quantities  of  pepper,  allspice, 
mace,  and  salt,  till  the  dish  is  full.  Save  a  little  of  the 
liquor  that  the  fish  was  boiled  in ;  set  it  on  the  fire  with  the 
bones  and  skin  of  the  fish,  boil  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then 
strain  it  through  a  sieve,  let  it  settle,  and  pour  it  in  the  dish ; 
cover  it  with  puff-paste ;  bake  it  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter. 
Shrimps,  prawns,  or  oysters  added,  will  improve  the  above ; 
if  for  patties,  they  must  be  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  dressed 
in  a  beshamell  sauce  (No.  364). 

Cod-sounds  for  a  pie  should  be  soaked  at  least  twenty-four 
hours,  then  well  washed,  and  put  on  a  cloth  to  dry.  Put  in 
a  stew-pan  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  with  four  ounces  of 
sliced  onions ;  fry  them  of  a  nice  brown,  then  put  in  a  small 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  add  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water; 
when  smooth,  put  in  about  ten  cod-sounds,  and  season  them 
with  a  little  pepper,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
essence  of  anchovy,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  stir  it  well 
together,  put  it  in  a  pie-dish,  cover  it  with  paste,  and  bake  it 
one  hour. 

Perch,  Roach,  Dace,  Gudgeons,  fyc.  fried. — (No.  159.) 

Wash  the  fish  well,  wipe  them  on  a  dry  cloth,  flour  them 
lightly  all  over,  and  fry  them  ten  minutes  (No.  145)  in  hot 
lard  or  drippings ;  lay  them  on  a  hair-sieve  to  drain ;  send 
them  up  on  a  hot  dish,  garnished  with  sprigs  of  green  parsley. 
Anchovy  sauce,  Nos.  270  and  433. 

Perch  boiled*— (No.  160.) 

Clean  them  carefully,  and  put  them  in  a  fish-kettle,  with  as 
much  cold  spring-water  as  will  cover  them,  with  a  handful 
of  salt ;  set  them  on  a  quick  fire  till  they  boil ;  when  they 
boil,  set  them  on  one  side  to  boil  gently  for  about  ten  minutes, 
according  to  their  size. 

Salmon,  Herrings,  Sprats,  Mackerel,  <$>c.  pickled.— (No.  161.) 

Cut  the  fish  into  proper  pieces ;  do  not  take  off  the  scales ; 
make  a  brine  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg,  in  which  boil  the 
fish ;  it  must  be  boiled  in  only  just  liquor  enough  to  cover  it ; 

*  The  perch  of  New- York  are  a  small  fresh-water  fish,  and  seldom  boiled,  being 
better  calculated  for  frying  or  broiling,  as  a  relish  at  breakfast.  A. 


180  FISH. 

do  not  overboil  it.  When  the  fish  is  boiled,  lay  it  slantingly 
to  drain  off  all  the  liquor ;  when  cold,  pack  it  close  in  the 
kits,  and  fill  them  up  with  equal  parts  of  the  liquor  the  salmon 
was  boiled  in  (having  first  well  skimmed  it),  and  best  vinegar 
(No.  24) ;  let  them  rest  for  a  day ;  fill  up  again,  striking  the 
sides  of  the  kit  with  a  cooper's  adze,  until  the  kit  will  receive- 
no  more ;  then  head  them  down  as  close  as  possible. 

Obs.  This  is  in  the  finest  condition  when  fresh.  Salmon 
is  most  plentiful  about  midsummer ;  the  season  for  it  is  from 
February  to  September.  Some  sprigs  of  fresh-gathered 
young  fennel  are  the  accompaniments. 

N.B.  The  three  indispensable  marks  of  the  goodness  of 
pickled  salmon  are,  1st,  The  brightness  of  the  scales,  and 
their  sticking  fast  to  the  skin ;  2dly,  The  firmness  of  the 
flesh;  and,  3dly,  Its  fine,  pale-red  rose  colour.  Without 
these  it  is  not  fit  to  eat,  and  was  either  stale  before  it  was 
pickled,  or  has  been  kept  too  long  after. 

The  above  was  given  us  as  the  actual  practice  of  those 
who  pickle  it  for  the  London  market. 

N.B.  Pickled  salmon  warmed  by  steam,  or  in  its  picklr- 
liquor,  is  a  favourite  dish  at  Newcastle. 

Salmon*  boiled.— (No.  162.) 

Put  on  a  fish-kettle,  with  spring-water  enough  to  welt 
cover  the  salmon  you  are  going  to  dress,  or  the  salmon  will 
neither  look  nor  taste  well:  (boil  the  liver  in  a  separate 
saucepan.)  When  the  water  boils,  put  in  a  handful  of  salt ; 

*  SALMON.  The  earliest  that  comes  in  season  to  the  London  market  is  brought 
from  the  Severn,  and  begins  to  come  into  season  the  beginning  of  November,  bui 
very  few  so  early,  perhaps  not  above  one  in  fifty,  as  many  of  them  will  not  shooi 
their  spawn  till  January,  or  after,  and  then  continue  in  season  till  October,  wliei. 
they  begin  to  get  very  thin  and  poor.  The  principal  supply  of  salmon  is  from  dil 
ferent  parts  of  Scotland,  packed  in  ice,  and  brought  by  water :  if  the  vessels  havf 
a  fair  wind,  they  will  be  in  London  in  three  days ;  but  it  frequently  happens  thai 
they  are  at  sea  perhaps  a  fortnight,  when  the  greater  part  of  the  fish  is  perished, 
and  has,  for  a  year  or  two  past,  sold  as  low  as  twopence  per  pound,  and  up  to  as 
much  as  eighteen  pence  per  pound  at  the  same  time,  owing  to  its  different  degrees 
of  goodness.  This  accounts  for  the  very  low  prices  at  which  the  itinerant  fish 
mongers  cry  their  "  delicate  salmon,"  "  dainty  fresh  salmon,"  and  "  live  cod,"  "  new 
mackerel,"  &c.  &c. 

"Salmon  gwilts,  or  salmon  peel,  are  the  small  salmon  which  run  from  about  fivr 
or  six  pounds  to  ten  pounds,  are  very  good  fish,  and  make  handsome  dishea  of  fi^Ii 
sent  to  table  crooked  in  the  form  of  an  S. 

"  Berwick  trout  are  a  distinct  fish  from  the  gwilts,  and  are  caught  in  the  river 
Tweed,  and  dressed  in  the  same  manner  as  the  gwilt. 

"  Calvered  salmon  is  the  salmon  caught  in  the  Thames,  and  cut  into  slices  alive 
and  some  few  salmon  are  brought  from  Oxford  to  London  alive,  and  cut.  A  fev\ 
slices  make  a  handsome,  genteel  dish,  but  it  is  generally  very  expensive ;  sonn 
times  15s.  per  pound." 

[Fresh  salmon  comes  to  the  New- York  market  from  the  eastern  states,  and  most!  v 
from  Maine.  Itis  also  occasionally  brought  from  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  nortiK'rn 
part  of  New- York  in  wintor.  A.] 


FISH.  18* 

take  off  the  scum  as  soon  as  it  rises ;  have  the  fish  well 
washed ;  put  it  in,  and  if  it  is  thick,  let  it  boil  very  gently. 
Salmon  requires  almost  as  much  boiling  as  meat ;  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  to  a  pound  of  fish :  but  practice  only  can 
perfect  the  cook  in  dressing  salmon.  A  quarter  of  a  salmon 
will  take  almost  as  long  boiling  as  half  a  one  :  you  must  con- 
sider the  thickness,  not  the  weight :  ten  pounds  of  fine  full- 
grown  salmon  will  be  done  in  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Lob- 
ster Sauce,  No.  284. 

Obs.  The  thinnest  part  of  the  fish  is  the  fattest ;  and  if  you 
have  a  "  grand  gourmand"  at  table,  ask  him  if  he  is  for  thick 
or  thin. 

The  Thames  salmon  is  preferred  in  the  London  market ; 
and  some  epicures  pretend  to  be  able  to  distinguish  by  the 
taste,  in  which  reach  of  the  river  it  was  caught ! ! ! 

N.B.  If  you  have  any  left,  put  it  into  a  pie-dish,  and  cover 
it  with  an  equal  portion  of  vinegar  and  pump- water,  and  a 
little  salt :  it  will  be  ready  in  three  days. 

Fresh  Salmon  broiled. — (No.  163.) 

Clean  the  salmon  well,  and  cut  it  into  slices  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  thick ;  dry  it  thoroughly  in  a  clean  cloth ;  rub  it 
over  with  sweet  oil,  or  thick  melted  butter,  and  sprinkle  a 
little  salt  over  it :  put  your  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  at  some 
distance ;  when  it  is  hot  wipe  it  clean ;  rub  it  with  sweet  oil 
or  lard ;  lay  the  salmon  on,  and  when  it  is  done  on  one  sidet 
turn  it  gently  and  broil  the  other.  Anchovy  sauce,  &c. 

Obs.  An  oven  does  them  best. 

Soles  or  Eels,*  fyc.  &c.  stewed  Wiggy's  way.— (No.  164.) 

Take  two  pounds  of  fine  silver!  eels :  the  best  are  those 
that  are  rather  more  than  a  half-crown  piece  in  circum- 
ference, quite  fresh,  full  of  life,  and  "  as  brisk  as  an  eel :" 
such  as  have  been  kept  out  of  water  till  they  can  scarce  stir, 
are  good  for  nothing :  gut  them,  rub  them  with  salt  till  the 
slime  is  cleaned  from  them,  wash  them  in  several  different 
waters,  and  divide  them  into  pieces  about  four  inches  long. 

Some  cooks,  after  skinning  them,  dredge  them  with  a  little 
flour,  wipe  them  dry,  and  then  egg  and  crumb  them,  and  fry 

*  Small  fish  and  fillets  of  whiting,  turbots,  brilla,  &c.  and  slices  of  cod,  or  tlw 
head  or  tail  of  it,  are  excellent  dressed  the  same  way. 

t  The  yellow  eels  taste  muddy  ;  the  whiteness  of  the  belly  of  the  fish  is  not  the 
only  mark  to  know  the  best ;  the  right  colour  of  the  back  is  a  very  bright  coppery 
ime :  the  olive-coloured  are  inferior ;  and  those  tending  to  a  green  are  worse., 

Q 


182  FISH. 

them  in  drippings  till  they  are  brown,  and  lay  them  to  dry  on 
a  hair  sieve. 

Have  ready  a  quart  of  good  beef  gravy  (No.  329) ;  it  must 
be  cold  when  you  put  the  eels  into  it :  set  them  on  a  slow  fire 
to  simmer  very  gently  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  eels ;  watch  them,  that  they  are  not 
done  too  much ;  take  them  carefully  out  of  the  stew-pan  with 
a  fish-slice,  so  as  not  to  tear  their  coats,  and  lay  them  on  a 
dish  about  two  inches  deep. 

Or,  if  for  maigre  days,  when  you  have  skinned  your  eels, 
throw  the  skins  into  salt  and  water ;  wash  them  well ;  then 
put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  quart  of  water,  two  onions, 
with  two  cloves  stuck  in  each,  and  one  blade  of  mace ;  let 
it  boil  twenty  minutes,  and  strain  it  through  a  sieve  into  a 
basin. 

Make  the  sauce  about  as  thick  as  cream,  by  mixing  a  little 
flour  with  it ;  put  in  also  two  table- spoonfuls  of  port  wine, 
and  one  of  mushroom  catchup,  or  cavice :  stir  it  into  the 
sauce  by  degrees,  give  it  a  boil,  and  strain  it  to  the  fish 
through  a  sieve. 

N.B.  If  mushroom  sauce  (Nos.  225,  305,  or  333),  or  white 
sauce  (No.  364 — 2),  be  used  instead  of  beef  gravy,  this  will 
be  one  of  the  most  relishing  maigre  dishes  we  know. 

Obs.  To  kill  eels  instantly,  without  the  horrid  torture  of 
cutting  and  skinning  them  alive,  pierce  the  spinal  marrow, 
close  to  the  back  part  of  the  skull,  with  a  sharp-pointed 
skewer :  if  this  be  done  in  the  right  place,  all  motion  will 
instantly  cease.  The  humane  executioner  does  certain  cri- 
minals the  favour  to  hang  them  before  he  breaks  them  on 
the  wheel. 

To  fry  Eck— (No.  165.) 

Skin  and  gut  them,  and  wash  them  well  in  cold  water,  cut 
them  in  pieces  four  inches  long,  season  them  vyith  pepper  and 
salt ;  beat  an  egg  well  on  a  plate,  dip  them  in  the  egg,  and 
then  in  fine  bread-crumbs;  fry  them  in  fresh,  clean  lard; 
drain  them  well  from  the  fat ;  garnish  with  crisp  parsley. 
For  sauce,  plain  and  melted  butter,  sharpened  with  lemon- 
juice,  or  parsley  and  butter. 

Spitchocked  Eels.— (No.  166.) 

This  the  French  cooks  call  the  English  way  of  dressing 
eels. 

Take  two  middling-sized  silver  eels,  leave  the  skin  on, 
scour  them  with  salt,  and  wash  them,  cut  off  the  heads,  sli-t 


FISH.  183 

them  on  the  belly  side,  and  take  out  the  bones  and  guts,  and 
wash  and  wipe  them  nicely ;  then  cut  them  into  pieces  about 
three  inches  long,  and  wipe  them  quite  dry;  put  two  ounces 
of  butter  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  little  minced  parsley,  thyme, 
sage,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  a  very  little  chopped  eschalot ; 
set  the  stew-pan  over  the  fire ;  when  the  butter  is  melted,  stir 
the  ingredients  together,  and  take  it  off  the  fire,  mix  the  yelks 
of  two  eggs  with  them,  and  dip  the  eel  in,  a  piece  at  a  time, 
and  then  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  making  as  much  stick 
to  them  as  you  can;  then  rub  the  gridiron  with  a  bit  of  suet, 
set  it  high  over  a  very  clear  fire,  and  broil  your  eels  of  a  fine 
crisp  brown.  Dish  them  with  crisp  parsley,  and  send  up 
Avith  plain  butter  in  a  boat,  and  anchovy  and  butter. 

Obs.  We  like  them  better  with  the  skin  off;  it  is  very  apt 
to  offend  delicate  stomachs. 

Mackerel  boiled*— (No.  67.) 

This  fish  loses  its  life  as  soon  as  it  leaves  the  sea,  and  the 
fresher  it  is  the  better. 

Wash  and  clean  them  thoroughly  (the  fishmongers  seldom 
do  this  sufficiently),  put  them  into  cold  water  with  a  handful 
of  salt  in  it ;  let  them  rather  simmer  than  boil ;  a  small 
mackerel  will  be  done  enough  in  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour ; 
when  the  eye  starts  and  the  tail  splits,  they  are  done ;  do  not 
let  them  stand  in  the  water  a  moment  after ;  they  are  so 
delicate  that  the  heat  of  the  water  will  break  them. 

This  fish,  in  London,  is  rarely  fresh  enough  to  appear  at 
table  in  perfection ;  and  either  the  mackerel  is  boiled  too 
much,  or  the  roef  too  little.  The  best  way  is  to  open  a  slit 
opposite  the  middle  of  the  roe,  you  can  then  clean  it  pro- 
perly ;  this  will  allow  the  water  access,  and  the  roe  will  then 
be  done  as  soon  as  the  fish,  which  it  seldom  is  otherwise ; 
some  sagacious  gourmands  insist  upon  it  they  must  be  taken 
out  and  boiled  separately.  For  sauce,  see  Nos.  263,  265, 
and  266 ;  and  you  may  garnish  them  with  pats  of  minced 
fennel. 

*  There  are  several  species  of  mackerel  in  their  season  in  the  New- York  markef. 
That  which  arrives  in  the  spring  is  most  esteemed,  and  in  greatest  plenty.  Spring 
mackerel  is  a  migrating  fish,  and  succeeds  the  shad,  or  commences  its  run  along 
the  coast  of  New-Jersey  and  Long  Island,  just  before  the  shad  disappears.  It  doesi 
not  ascend  the  rivers,  but  continues  its  course  north-eastward  in  immense  shoals, 
and  is  taken  by  the  fishermen  with  the  hook  and  line,  while  sailing  in  smacks  along 
the  coast,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Delaware  to  Nova  Scotia.  These  fish  are  kept  hi 
cars,  and  sold  alive  in  the  markets.  They  are  mostly  broiled,  and  brought  to  the 
breakfast-table.  The  larger  ones  sometimes  grace  the  dining-table.  They  may 
be  boiled,  but  are  best  when  stuffed  and  baked  in  an  oven.  A. 

t  The  roe  of  the  male  fish  is  soft,  like  the  brains  of  a  calf;  that  of  the  female  is 
full  of  small  eggs,  and  called  hard  roe. 


184  FISH. 

N.B.  The  common  notion  is,  that  mackerel  are  in  best 
condition  when  fullest  of  roe ;  however,  the  fish  at  that  time 
is  only  valuable  for  its  roe,  the  meat  of  it  has  scarcely  any 
flavour. 

Mackerel  generally  make  their  appearance  off  the  Land's 
End  about  the  beginning  of  April ;  and  as  the  weather  gets 
warm  they  gradually  come  round  the  coast,  and  generally 
arrive  off  Brighton  about  May,  and  continue  for  some 
months,  until  they  begin  to  shoot  their  spawn. 

After  they  have  let  go  their  roes,  they  are  called  shotten 
mackerel,  and  are  not  worth  catching ;  the  roe,  which  was 
all  that  was  good  of  them,  being  gone. 

It  is  in  the  early  season,  when  they  have  least  roe,  that 
the  flesh  of  this  fish  is  in  highest  perfection.  There  is  also 
an  after-season,  when  a  few  fine  large  mackerel  are  taken, 
(«.  e.  during  the  herring  season,  about  October,)  which  some 
piscivorous  epicures  are  very  partial  to ;  these  fish  having 
had  time  to  fatten  and  recover  their  health,  are  full  of  high 
flavour,  and  their  flesh  is  firm  and  juicy :  they  are  commonly 
called  silver  mackerel,  from  their  beautiful  appearance,  their 
colour  being  almost  as  bright  when  boiled  as  it  was  the 
moment  they  were  caught. 

MackereTbrmled.—(No.  169.) 

Clean  a  fine  large  mackerel,  wipe  it  on  a  dry  cloth,  and 
cut.  a  long  slit  down  the  back;  lay  it  on  a  clean  gridiron, 
over  a  very  clear,  slow  fire ;  when  it  is  done  on  one  side, 
turn  it ;  be  careful  that  it  does  not  burn ;  send  it  up  with 
fennel  sauce  (No.  265) ;  mix  well  together  a  little  finely 
minced  fennel  and  parsley,  seasoned  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  a  bit  of  fresh  butter,  and  when  the  mackerel  are  ready 
for  the  table,  put  some  of  this  into  each  fish. 

Mackerel  baked.*—(No.  170.) 

Cut  off  their  heads,  open  them,  and  take  out  the  roes  and 
clean  them  thoroughly ;  rub  them  on  the  inside  with  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  put  the  roes  in  again,  season  them  (with  a 
mixture  of  powdered  allspice,  black  pepper,  and  salt,  well 
rubbed  together),  and  lay  them  close  in  a  baking-pan,  cover 
them  with  equal  quantities  of  cold  vinegar  and  water,  tie 
them  down  with  strong  white  paper  doubled,  and  bake 

*  Mackerel  of  large  size  may  be  'stuffed  like  a  fowl,,  leaving  the  head  on,  and 
baked  in  an  oven.  A. 


FISH.  185 

them  for  an  hour  in  a  slow  oven.    They  will  keep  for  a 
fortnight. 

Pickled  Mackerel,  Herrings,  or  Sprats. — (No.  171.) 

Procure  them  as  fresh  as  possible,  split  them,  take  off  the 
heads,  and  trim  off  the  thin  part  of  the  belly,  put  them  into 
salt  and  water  for  one  hour,  drain  and  wipe  your  fish,  and 
put  them  into  jars  or  casks,  with  the  following  preparation, 
which  is  enough  for  three  dozen  mackerel.  Take  salt  and 
bay-salt,  one  pound  each,  saltpetre  and  lump-sugar,  two 
ounces  each ;  grind  and  pound  the  salt,  &c.  well  together, 
put  the  fish  into  jars  or  casks,  with  a  layer  of  the  prepara- 
tion at  the  bottom,  then  a  layer  of  mackerel  with  the  skin- 
side  downwards,  so  continue  alternately  till  the  cask  or  jar 
is  full ;  press  it  down  and  cover  it  close.  In  about  three 
months  they  will  be  fit  for  use. 

Sprats  broiled.— (No.  170*— Fried,  see  No.  173.) 

If  you  have  not  a  sprat  gridiron,  get  a  piece  of  pointed 
iron  wire  as  thick  as  packthread,  and  as  long  as  your  grid- 
iron is  broad ;  run  this  through  the  heads  of  your  sprats, 
sprinkle  a  little  flour  and  salt  over  them,  put  your  gridiron 
over  a  clear,  quick  fire,  turn  them  in  about  a  couple  of  mi- 
nutes ;  when  the  other  side  is  brown,  draw  out  the  wire,  and 
send  up  the  fish  with  melted  butter  in  a  cup. 

Obs.  That  sprats  are  young  herrings,  is  evident  by  their 
anatomy,  in  which  there  is  no  perceptible  difference.  They 
appear  veiy  soon  after  the  herrings  are  gone,  and  seem  to 
be  the  spawn  just  vivified. 

f 
Sprats  stewed.— (No.  170**.) 

Wash  and  dry  your  sprats,  and  lay  them  as  level  as  you 
can  in  a  stew-pan,  and  between  every  layer  of  sprats  put 
three  peppercorns,  and  as  many  allspice,  with  a  few  grains 
of  salt ;  barely  cover  them  with  vinegar,  and  stew  them  one 
hour  over  a  slow  fire;  they  must  not  boil:  a  bay-leaf  is 
sometimes  added.  Herrings  or  mackerel  may  be  stewed 
the  same  way. 

To  fry  sprats,  see  No.  173. 

Herrings  broiled.— (No.  171*.) 

Wash  them  well,  then  dry  them  with  a  cloth,  dust  them 
with  flour,  and  broil  them  over  a  slow  fire  till  they  are  well 
done.    Send  up  melted  butter  in  a  boat. 
Q2 


1 8G  FISH. 

Obs.  For  a  particular  account  of  herrings,  see  SOLA£ 
DODD'S  Natural  Hist,  of  Herrings,  in  178  pages,  8vo.  1752. 

Red  Herrings,  and  other  dried  Fish,— (No.  172.) 

"  Should  be  cooked  in  the  same  manner  as  now  practised 
by  the  poor  in  Scotland.  They  soak  them  in  water  until 
they  become  pretty  fresh ;  they  are  then  hung  up  in  the  sun 
and  wind,  on  a  stick  through  their  eyes,  to  dry;  and  then 
boiled  or  broiled.  In  this  way  they  eat  almost  as  well  as,  if 
they  were  new  caught."  See  the  Hon.  JOHN  COCHRANE'S 
Seaman's  Guide,  8vo.  1797,  p.  34. 

"  Scotch  haddocks  should  be  soaked  all  night.  You  may 
boil  or  broil  them ;  if  you  broil,  split  them  in  two. 

"  All  the  different  sorts  of  dried  fish,  except  stock  fish,  are 
salted,  dried  in  the  sun  in  prepared  kilns,  or  by  the  smoke  of 
wood  fires,  and  require  to  be  softened  and  freshened,  in  pro- 
portion to  their  bulk,  nature,  or  dryness ;  the  very  dry  sort, 
as  cod,  whiting,  &c.  should  be  steeped  in  lukewarm  water, 
kept  as  near  as  possible  to  an  equal  degree  of  heat.  The 
larger  fish  should  be  steeped  twelve  hours,  the  smaller  about 
two ;  after  which  they  should  be  taken  out  and  hung  up  by 
the  tails  until  they  are  dressed.  The  reason  for  hanging 
them  up  is,  that  they  soften  equally  as  in  the  steeping,  with- 
out extracting  too  much  of  the  relish,  which  would  render 
them  insipid.  When  thus  prepared,  the  small  fish,  as  whiting, 
tusks,  &c.  should  be  floured  and  laid  on  the  gridiron ;  and 
when  a  little  hardened  on  one  side,  must  be  turned  and 
basted  with  sweet  oil  upon  a  feather ;  and  when  basted  on 
both  sides,  and  well  heated  through,  taken  up.  A  clear 
charcoal  fire  is  the  best  for  cooking  them,  and  the  fish  should 
be  kept  at  a  good  distance,  to  broil  gradually.  When  they 
are  done  enough  they  will  swell  a  little  in  the  basting,  and 
you  must  not  let  them  fall  again.  If  boiled,  as  the  larger 
fish  generally  are,  they  should  be  kept  just  simmering  over 
an  equal  fire,  in  which  way  half  an  hour  will  do  the  largest 
fish,  and  five  minutes  the  smallest. 

"  Dried  salmon,  though  a  large  fish,  does  not  require  more 
steeping  than  a  whiting ;  and  when  laid  on  the  gridiron  should 
be  moderately  peppered.  To  herring  and  to  all  kinds  of 
broiled  salt  fish,  sweet  oil  is  the  best  basting." 

The  above  is  from  MACDONALD'S  London  Family  Cook,  8vo. 
1808,  p.  139. 

Obs.  Dr.  Harte,  in  his  Essay  on  Diet,  1633,  fol.  p.  91,  pro- 
tests, "  a  red  herring  doth  nourish  little,  and  is  hard  of  con- 


FISH.  187 

coction,  but  very  good  to  make  a  cup  of  good  drink  relish 
well,  and  may  be  well  called  '  the  drunkard's  delight.'  " 

Smelts,  Gudgeons,  Sprats,  or  other  small  Fish,  fried. — (No.  173.) 

Clean  and  dry  them  thoroughly  in  a  cloth,  fry  them  plain, 
or  beat  an  egg  on  a  plate,  dip  them  in  it,  and  then  in  very  fine 
bread-crumbs  that  have  been  rubbed  through  a  sieve ;  the 
smaller  the  fish,  the  finer  should  be  the  bread-crumbs — biscuit 
powder  is  still  better;  fry  them  in  plenty  of  clean  lard  or 
drippings ;  as  soon  as  the  lard  boils  and  is  still,  put  in  the 
fish ;  when  they  are  delicately  browned,  they  are  done ;  this 
will  hardly  take  two  minutes.  Drain  them  on  a  hair-sieve, 
placed  before  the  fire,  turning  them  till  quite  dry.  06s.  Read 
No.  145. 

"  Smelts  are  allowed  to  be  caught  in  the  Thames,  on  the 
first  of  November,  and  continue  till  May.  The  Thames 
smelts  are  the  best  and  sweetest,  for  two  reasons ;  they  are 
fresher  and  richer  than  any  other  you  can  get :  they  catch 
them  much  more  plentiful  and  larger  in  Lancashire  and  Nor- 
folk, but  not  so  good :  a  great  many  are  brought  to  town 
from  Norfolk,  but  barely  come  good,  as  they  are  a  fish  which 
should  always  be  eaten  fresh ;  indeed,  all  river  fish  should  be 
eaten  fresh,  except  salmon,  which,  unless  crimped,  eats  bet- 
ter the  second  or  third  day :  but  all  Thames  fish,  particularly, 
should  be  eaten  very  fresh ;  no  fish  eats  so  bad  kept." 

Potted  Prawns,  Shrimps,  or  Cray-fish. — (No.  175.) 

Boil  them  in  water  with  plenty  of  salt  in  it.  When  you 
have  picked  them,  powder  them  with  a  little  beaten  mace, 
or  grated  nutmeg,  or  allspice,  and  pepper  and  salt ;  add  a 
little  cold  butter,  and  pound  all  well  together  in  a  marble 
mortar  till  of  the  consistence  of  paste.  Put  it  into  pots  co- 
vered with  clarified  butter,  and  cover  them  over  with  wetted 
bladder. 

Lobster.*— (No.  176.) 

Buy  these  alive ;  the  lobster  merchants  sometimes  keep 
them  till  they  are  starved,  before  they  boil  them ;  they  are 
then  watery,  have  not  half  their  flavour,  and  like  other 
persons  that  die  of  a  consumption,  have  lost  the  calf  of  their 
legs. 

*  Lobsters  are  in  great  plenty  and  perfection  in  the  New- York  markets.  They 
are  taken  in  Long  Island  Sound,  and  along  the  rocky  shores  of  Connecticut,  Rhode 
Island,  and  Massachusetts.  A. 


1 88  FISH. 

Choose  those  that  (as  an  old  cook  says,  are  "  heavy  ami 
lively,"  and)  are  full  of  motion,  which  is  the  index  of  their 
freshness. 

Those  of  the  middle  size  are  the  best.  Never  take  them 
when  the  shell  is  incrusted,  which  is  a  sign  they  are  old. 
The  male  lobster  is  preferred  to  eat,  and  the  female  (on 
account  of  the  eggs)  to  make  sauce  of.  The  hen  lobster 
is  distinguished  by  having  a  broader  tail  than  the  male,  and 
less  claws. 

Set  on  a  pot,  with  water  salted  in  the  proportion  of  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt  to  a  quart  of  water ;  when  the  water  boils, 
put  it  in,  and  keep  it  boiling  briskly  from  half  an  hour  to  an 
hour,  according  to  its  size  ;  wipe  all  the  scum  off  it,  and  rub 
the  shell  with  a  very  little  butter  or  sweet  oil ;  break  off  the 
great  claws,  crack  them  carefully  in  each  joint,  so  that  they 
may  not  be  shattered,  and  yet  come  to  pieces  easily ;  cut 
the  tail  down  the  middle,  and  send  up  the  body  whole.  For 
sauce,  No.  285.  To  pot  lobster,  No.  178. 

*#*  These  fish  come  in  about  April,  and  continue  plentiful 
till  the  oyster  season  returns ;  after  that  time  they  begin  to 
spawn,  and  seldom  open  solid. 

Crab.— (No.  177.  ] 

The  above  observations  apply  to  crabs,  which  shoald 
neither  be  too  small  nor  too  large.  The  best  size  are  those 
which  measure  about  eight  inches  across  the  shoulders. 

*#*  Crabs  appear  and  disappear  about  the  same  time  as 
lobsters.  The  cromer  crabs  are  most  esteemed ;  but  num- 
bers are  brought  from  the  Isle  of  Wight. 

Potted  Lobster  or  Crab.*— (No.  178). 

This  must  be  made  with  fine  hen  lobsters,  when  full  of 
spawn:  boil  them  thoroughly  (No.  176);  when  cold,  pick 
out  all  the  solid  meat,  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar :  it  is  usual 
to  add,  by  degrees,  (a  very  little)  finely-pounded  mace,  black 
or  Cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and,  while  pounding,  a  little  butter. 
When  the  whole  is  well  mixed,  and  beat  to  the  consistence 
of  paste,  press  it  down  hard  in  a  preserving-pot,  pour  clari- 
fied butter  over  it,  and  cover  it  with  wetted  bladder. 

Obs. — Some  put  lobster  without  pounding  it,  and  only  cut 
it  or  pull  it  into  such  pieces  as  if  it  was  prepared  for  sauce, 
and  mince  it  with  the  spawn  and  soft  parts  and  seasoning, 

*  Crabs  are  not  esteemed  as  a  delicacy  by  epicures  unless  they  are  soft,  when 
they  are  fried  whole.  In  July  and  August  they  shed  their  coats,  and  in  this  state 
may  be  cooked  and  eaten  without  being  incommoded  with  their  shells.  A. 


189 

and  press  it  together  as  close  as  possible ;  in  packing  it, 
place  the  coral  and  spawn,  &c.  in  layers,  so  that  it  may  look 
regular  and  handsome  when  cut  out.  If  you  intend  it  as 
store  (see  N.B.  to  No.  284,  to  make  sauce  with),  this  is  the 
best  way  to  do  it ;  but  if  for  sandwiches,  &c.  the  first  is  the 
best,  and  will  keep  much  longer. 

Dressed  or  buttered  lobsters  and  crabs,  are  favourite  orna* 
mental  dishes  with  those  who  deck  their  table  merely  to 
please  the  eye.  Our  apology  for  not  giving  such  receipts 
will  be  found  in  Obs.  to  No.  322. 

OYSTERS*— (No.  181.) 

The  commonf  Colchester  and  Feversham  oysters  are 
brought  to  market  on  the  5th  of  August ;  the  Milton,  or,  as 
they  are  commonly  called,  the  melting  natives,;};  do  not  come 
in  till  the  beginning  of  October,  continue  in  season  till  the 
12th  of  May,  and  approach  the  meridian  of  their  perfection 
about  Christmas. 

Some  piscivorous  gourmands  think  that  oysters  are  not 
best  when  quite  fresh  from  their  beds,  and  that  their  flavour 
is  too  brackish  and  harsh,  and  is  much  ameliorated  by  giving 
them  a  feed. 

To  FEED&  oysters. — Cover  them  with  clean  water,  with  a 
pint  of  salt  to  about  two  gallons  (nothing  else,  no  oatmeal, 
flour,  nor  any  other  trumpery) ;  this  will  cleanse  them  from 
the  mud  and  sand,  &c.  of  the  bed ;  after  they  have  lain  in  it 
twelve  hours,  change  it  for  fresh  salt  and  water,  and  in  twelve 
hours  more  they  will  be  in  prime  order  for  the  mouth,  and 
remain  so  two  or  three  days  :  at  the  time  of  high  water  you 
may  see  them  open  their  shells,  in  expectation  of  receiving 
their  usual  food.  This  process  of  feeding  oysters  is  only 
employed  when  a  great  many  come  up  together. 

The  real  Colchester,  or  Pyfleet  barrelled  oysters,  that  are 
packed  at  the  beds,  are  better  Avithout  being  put  in  water : 

*  Oyster  sauce,  No.  278 ;  preserved  oysters,  No.  280. 

f  Those  are  called  common  oysters,  which  are  picked  up  on  the  French  coast, 
and  laid  in  the  Colchester  beds. 

These  are  never  so  fine  and  fat  as  the  natives,  and  seldom  recover  the  shock  their 
feelings  receive  from  being  transported  from  their  native  place :  delicate  little  crea- 
tures, they  are  as  exquisite  in  their  own  taste  as  they  are  to  the  taste  of  others ! 

%  Oysters  are  thus  called,  that  are  born,  as  well  as  bred  and  fed,  in  this  country, 
and  are  mostly  spit  in  the  Burnham  and  Mersey  rivers :  they  do  not  come  to  their 
finest  condition  till  they  are  near  four  years  old. 

$  WILL  RABISHA,  in  his  receipt  to  "broil  oysters,"  (see  his  Cookery,  page  144,) 
ilirects,  that  while  they  are  undergoing  this  operation,  they  should  be  fed  with  white 
wine  and  grated  bread. 

In  BOYLE'S  Works,  4to.  1772,  vol.  ii.  p.  450,  there  is  a  very  curious  chapter  on 
ibe  eating  of  oysters. 


190  PISH. 

they  are  carefully  and  tightly  packed,  and  must  not  be  dis- 
turbed till  wanted  for  table.  These,  in  moderate  weather, 
will  keep  good  for  a  week  or  ten  days. 

If  an  oyster  opens  his  mouth  in  the  barrel,  he  dies  imme- 
diately. 

To  preserve  the  lives  of  barrelled  oysters,  put  a  heavy 
weight  on  the  wooden  top  of  the  barrel,  which  is  to  be  placed 
on  the  surface  of  the  oysters.  This  is  to  be  effected  by  re- 
moving the  first  hoop ;  the  staves  will  then  spread  and  stand 
erect,  making  a  wide  opening  for  the  head  of  the  barrel  to 
fall  down  closely  on  the  remaining  fish,  keeping  them  close 
together. 

MEM.— The  oysters  which  are  commonly  sold  as  barrelled 
oysters,  are  merely  the  smallest  natives,  selected  from  the 
stock,  and  put  into  the  tub  when  ordered;  and,  instead  of 
being  of  superior  quality,  are  often  very  inferior.  To  im- 
mature animals  there  is  the  same  objection  as  to  unripe 
vegetables. 

06s.— Common  people  are  indifferent  about  the  manner  of 
opening  oysters,  and  the  time  of  eating  them  after  they  are 
opened ;  nothing,  however,  is  more  important  in  the  enlight- 
ened eyes  of  the  experienced  oyster-eater. 

Those  who  wish  to  enjoy  this  delicious  restorative  in  its 
utmost  perfection,  must  eat  it  the  moment  it  is  opened,  with 
its  own  gravy  in  the  under  shell ;  if  not  eaten  while  abso- 
lutely alive,  its  flavour  and  spirit  are  lost. 
x  The  true  lover  of  an  oyster  will  have  some  regard  for  the 
feelings  of  his  little  favourite,  and  will  never  abandon  it  to 
the  mercy  of  a  bungling  operator,  but  will  open  it  himself, 
and  contrive  to  detach  the  fish  from  the  shell  so  dexterously, 
that  the  oyster  is  hardly  conscious  he  has  been  ejected  from 
his  lodging,  till  he  feels  the  teeth  of  the  piscivorous  gour 
mand  tickling  him  to  death. 

N.B.  Fish  is  less  nutritious  than  flesh :  as  a  proof,  when 
the  trainer  of  Newmarket  wishes  to  waste  a  jockey,  he  is 
not  allowed  meat,  nor  even  pudding,  if  fish  can  be  had.  The 
white  kinds  of  fish,  turbots,  soles,  whiting,  cod,  haddock, 
flounders,  smelts,  &c.  are  less  nutritious  than  the  oily,  fat 
fish,  such  as  eels,  salmon,  herrings,  sprats,  &c. :  the  latter, 
however,  are  more  difficult  to  digest,  and  often  disturb  weak 
stomachs,  so  that  they  are  obliged  to  call  in  the  assistance 
of  Cayenne,  Cognac,  &c. 

Shell-fish  have  long  held  a  high  rank  in  the  catalogue  of 
easily  digestible  and  speedily  restorative  foods ;  of  these  the 
oyster  certainly  deserves  the  best  character,  but  we  think  it 
has  acquired  not  a  little  more  reputation  for  these  qualities 


FISH,  191 

than  it  deserves ;  a  well-dressed  chop*  or  steak,  see  No.  94, 
will  invigorate  the  heart  in  a  much  higher  ratio ;  to  recruit- 
the  animal  spirits,  and  support  strength,  there  is  nothing 
equal  to  animal  food ;  when  kept  till  properly  tender,  none 
will  give  so  little  trouble  to  the  digestive  organs,  and  so 
much  substantial  excitement  to  the  constitution.  See  note 
under  No.  185*. 

See  Dr.  WALLIS  and  Mr.  TYSON'S  Papers  on  men's  feeding 
on  flesh,  in  Phil.  Trans,  vol.  xxii.  p.  769  to  774 ;  and  POR- 
PHYRY on  Abstinence  from  Animal  Food,  translated  by 
Thomas  Taylor,  8vo.  1823. 

We  could  easily  say  as  much  in  praise  of  mutton  as  Mr. 
Ritson  has  against  it,  in  his  "Essay  on  Abstinence  from 
Animal  Food,  as  a  Moral  Duty,"  8vo.  London,  1802,  p.  102. 
He  says,  "  The  Pagan  priests  were  the  first  eaters  of  animal 
food ;  it  corrupted  their  taste,  and  so  excited  them  to  glut- 
tony, that  when  they  had  eaten  the  same  thing  repeatedly, 
their  luxurious  appetites  called  for  variety.  He  who  had 
devoured  the  sheep,  longed  to  masticate  the  shepherd ! ! ! 

"  Nature  seems  to  have  provided  other  animals  for  the  food 
of  man,  from  the  astonishing  increase  of  those  which  in- 
stinct points  out  to  him  as  peculiarly  desirable  for  that  pur- 
pose. For  instance ;  so  quick  is  the  produce  of  pigeons, 
lhat,  in  the  space  of  four  years,  14,760  may  come  from  a 
single  pair;  and  in  the  like  period,  1,274,840  from  a  couple 
of  rabbits,  this  is  nothing  to  the  millions  of  eggs  in  the  milt 
of  a  codfish." 


Scolloped  Oysters. — (No.  182.)    A  good  way  to  warm  up  any 
cold  fish. 

Stew  the  oysters  slowly  in  their  own  liquor  for  two  or 
iliree  minutes,  take  them  out  with  a  spoon,  beard  them,  and 
skim  the  liquor,  put  a  bit  of  butter  into  a  stew-pan ;  when  it 
is  melted,  add  as  much  fine  bread-crumbs  as  will  dry  it  up, 
then  put  to  it  the  oyster  liquor,  and  give  it  a  boil  up,  put  the 
oysters  into  scollop-shells  that  you  have  buttered,  and 
strewed  with  bread-crumbs,  then  a  layer  of  oysters,  then  of 
bread-crumbs,  and  then  some  more  oysters  ;  moisten  it  with 
the  oyster  liquor,  cover  them  with  bread-crumbs,  put  about 

*  "  Animal  food  being  composed  of  the  most  nutritious  parts  of  the  food  on  which 
the  animal  lived,  and  having  already  been  digested  by  the  proper  organs  of  an 
animal,  requires  only  solution  and  mixture ;  whereas  vegetable  food  must  be  con- 
verted into  a  substance  of  an  animal  nature,  by  the  proper  action  of  our  own  vis- 
cera, and  consequently  requires  more  labour  of  the  stomach,  and  other  digestive 
organs."— BURTON  on  the  Non-naturals,  page  213. 


1 92  FISH. 

half  a  dozen  little  bits  of  butter  on  the  top  of  each,  and 
brown  them  in  a  Butch  oven. 

Obs.  Essence  of  anchovy,  catchup,  Cayenne,  grated  lemon* 
peel,  mace,  and  other  spices,  &c.  are  added  by  those  who 
prefer  piquance  to  the  genuine  flavour  of  the  oyster. 

Cold  fish  may  be  re-dressed  the  same  way. 

N.B.  Small  scollop-shells,  or  saucers  that  hold  about  half 
a  dozen  oysters,  are  the  most  convenient. 

Stewed  Oysters.— (No.  182*.) 

Large  oysters  will  do  for  stewing,  and  by  some  are  pre- 
ferred ;  but  we  love  the  plump,  juicy  natives.  Stew  a  couple 
of  dozen  of  these  in  their  own  liquor;  when  they  are  coming 
to  a  boil,  skim  well,  take  them  up  and  beard  them ;  strain  the 
liquor  through  a  tamis-sieve,  and  lay  the  oysters  on  a  dish* 
Put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stew-pan ;  when  it  is  melted, 
put  to  it  as  much  flour  as  will  dry  it  up,  the  liquor  of  the 
oysters,  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  milk  or  cream,  and  a 
little  white  pepper  and  salt ;  to  this  some  cooks  add  a  little 
catchup,  or  finely-chopped  parsley,  grated  lemon-peel,  and 
juice ;  let  it  boil  up  for  a  couple  of  minutes,  till  it  is  smooth, 
then  take  it  off  the  fire,  put  in  the  oysters,  and  let  them  get 
warm  ^they  must  not  themselves  be  boiled,  or  they  will  be- 
come hard) ;  line  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  hash-dish  with 
bread-sippets,  and  pour  your  oysters  and  sauce  into  it.  See 
065.  to  receipt  No.  278. 

Oysters  fried*— (No.  183.) 

The  largest  and  finest  oysters  are  to  be  chosen  for  this 
purpose  ;  simmer  them  in  their  own  liquor  for  a  couple  of 
minutes,  take  them  out  and  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain, 
beard  them  and  then  flour  them,  egg  and  bread-crumb 
them,  put  them  into  boiling  fat,  and  fry  them  a  delicate 
brown. 

Obs.  An  elegant  garnish  for  made  dishes,  stewed  rump- 
steaks,  boiled  or  fried  fish,  &c. ;  but  they  are  too  hard  and 
dry  to  be  eaten. 

*  New- York  and  other  places  on  the  sea-coast  of  the  United  States,  afford  oysters 
in  great  plenty  and  perfection,  and  the  various  methods  of  preparing  them  are  we!! 
known.  A. 


BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS.  195 


BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS. 

Beef  Broth.*— (No.  185.) 

WASH  a  leg  or  shin  of  beef  very  clean,  crack  the  bone  in 
two  or  three  places  (this  you  should  desire  the  butcher  to  do 
for  you),  add  thereto  any  trimmings  you  have  of  meat,  game, 
or  poultry  (i.  e.  heads,  necks,  gizzards,  feet,  &c.),  and  cover 
them  with  cold  water;  watch  and  stir  it  up  well  from  the 
bottom,  and  the  moment  it  begins  to  simmer,  skim  it  care- 
fully ;  your  broth  must  be  perfectly  clear  and  limpid,  on  this 
depends  the  goodness  of  the  soups,  sauces,  and  gravies,  of 
which  it  is  the  basis :  then  add  some  cold  water  to  make  the 
remaining  scum  rise,  and  skim  it  again ;  when  the  scum  is 
done  rising,  and  the  surface  of  the  broth  is  quite  clear,  put  in 
one  moderate-sized  carrot,  a  head  of  celery,  two  turnips,  and 
two  onions,  it  should  not  have  any  taste  of  sweet  herbs, 
spice,  or  garlic,  &c. ;  either  of  these  flavours  can  easily  be 
added  immediately  after,  if  desired,  by  Nos.  420,  421,  422, 
&c.  cover  it  close,  set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  it 
simmer  very  gently  (so  as  not  to  waste  the  broth)  for  four  01 
five  hours,  or  more,  according  to  the  weight  of  the  meat ; 
strain  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  clean  and  dry  stone  pan,  and 
set  it  in  the  coldest  place  you  have. 

Obs.  This  is  the  foundation  for  all  sorts  of  soups  and 
sauce,  brown  or  white. 

Stew  no  longer  than  the  meat  is  thoroughly  done  to  eat, 
and  you  will  obtain  excellent  broth,  without  'depriving  the 
meat  of  its  nutritious  succulence :  to  boil  it  to  rags,  as  is 
the  common  practice,  will  not  enrich  your  broths,  but  make 
them  thick  and  grouty. 

The  meat,f  when  gently  stewed  for  only  four  or  five  hours 

*  In  culinary  technicals,  is  called  FIRST  STOCK,  or  long  broth ;  in  the  French 
kitchen,  "  le  grand  bouillon.1" 

t  A  dog  was  fed  on  the  richest  broth,  yet  could  not  be  kept  alive ;  while  another, 
which  had  only  the  meat  boiled  to  a  chip  (and  water),  throve  very  well.  This 
shows  the  folly  of  attempting  to  nourish  men  by  concentrated  soups,  jellies,  &c.— - 
SINCLAIR,  Code  of  Health,,  p.  356. 

If  this  experiment  be  accurate,  what  becomes  of  the  theoretic  visions  of  those 
who  have  written  about  nourishing  broths,  &c.?  The  best  test  of  the  restorative 
quality  of  food,  is  a  small  quantity  of  it  satisfying  hunger,  the  strength  of  the  pulsr; 
after  it.  and  the  length  of  time  which  clapsea  before  appetite  returns  again.  Ac- 

R 


194  BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS. 

till  it  is  just  tender,  remains  abundantly  sapid  and  nourishing, 
and  will  afford  a  relishing-  and  wholesome  meal  for  half  a 
dozen  people ;  or  make  potted  beef  (No.  503) :  or  when  you 
have  strained  off  the  broth,  cover  the  meat  again  with  water, 
and  let  it  go  on  boiling  for  four  hours  longer,  and  make 
what  some  cooks  call  "  second  stock ;"  it  will  produce  some 
very  good  glaze,  or  portable  soup;  see  No.  252,  and  the 
Obs.  thereon. 

Beef  Gravy.*— (No.  186.) 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  stew-pan  that  is  well  tinned  and 
quite  clean,  with  a  slice  of  good  ham,  or  lean  bacon,  four  or 
five  pounds  of  gravy  beef  cut  into  half-pound  pieces,  a  car- 
rot, an  onion  with  two  cloves  stuck  in  it,  and  a  head  of 
celery ;  put  a  pint  of  broth  or  water  to  it,  cover  it  close,  and 
set  it  over  a  moderate  fire  till  the  water  is  reduced  to  as  little 
as  will  just  save  the  ingredients  from  burning ;  then  turn  it 
all  about,  and  let  it  brown  slightly  and  equally  all  over ;  then 
put  in  three  quarts  of  boiling-  water  ;f  when  it  boils  up,  skim 
it  carefully,  and  wipe  off  with  a  clean  cloth  what  sticks 
round  the  edge  and  inside  of  the  stew-pan,  that  your  gravy 
may  be  delicately  clean  and  clear.  Set  it  by  the  side  of  a 
fire,  where  it  will  stew  gently  (to  keep  it  clear,  and  that  it 
may  not  be  reduced  too  much)  for  about  four  hours :  if  it  has 
not  boiled  too  fast,  there  should  be  two  quarts  of  good  gravy ; 
strain  through  a  silk,  or  tamis-sieve ;  take  very  particular 
care  to  skim  it  well,  and  set  it  in  a  cold  place. 

Strong  savoury  Gravy  (No.  188),  alias  "  Brown  Sauce,"  alias 
"  GRAND  ESPAGNOL." 

Take  a  stew-pan  that  will  hold  four  quarts,  lay  a  slice  or 
two  of  ham  or  bacon  (about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick)  at 
the  bottom  (undressed  is  the  best),  and  two  pounds  of  beef 
or  veal,  a  carrot,  a  large  onion  with  four  cloves  stuck  in  it, 
one  head  of  celery,  a  bundle  of  parsley,  lemon-thyme,  and 
savoury,  about  as  big  round  as  your  little  finger,  when  tied 
close,  a  few  leaves  of  sweet  basil  (one  bay-leaf,  and  an  es- 

rording  to  this  rule,  we  give  our  verdict  in  favour  of  No.  19  or  24.  See  N.B.  to 
\o.  181. 

This  subject  is  fully  discussed  in  "  The  Art  of  Invigorating  and  Prolonvintr 
Life,  by  Diet,  &c.  published  by  G.  B.  Whittaker,  13  Aye-Maria  "lane. 

*  Called,  in  some  cookery  books,  "SECOND  STOCK  ;"  in  the  French  kitchen,  "jus 
tie  b(Euf." 

t  A  great  deal  of  care  is  to  be  taken  to  watch  the  time  of  putting  in  the  water : 
jf  it  is  poured  in  too  soon,  the  gravy  will  not  have  its  true  flavour  and  colour ;  and 
:fit  be  let  alone  till  the  meat  sticks  to  the  pan,  it  will  get  a  burnt  taste.. 


BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS.  195 

chalot,  if  you  like  it),  a  piece  of  lemon-peel,  and  a  dozen 
corns  of  allspice  ;*  pour  on  this  half  a  pint  of  water,  cover 
it  close,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  on  a  slow  fire  for  half  an 
hour,  in  which  time  it  will  be  almost  dry ;  watch  it  very  care- 
fully, and  let  it  catch  a  nice  brown  colour ;  turn  the  meat, 
&c.  let  it  brown  on  all  sides ;  add  three  pints  of  boiling 
water,!  and  boil  for  a  couple  of  hours.  It  is  now  rich 
gravy.  To  convert  it  into 

CM//W,  or  thickened  Gravy.— (No.  189.) 

To  a  quart  of  gravy,  put  a  table-spoonful  of  thickening 
(No.  257),  or  from  one  to  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  ac- 
cording to  the  thickness  you  wish  the  gravy  to  be,  into  a 
basin,  with  a  ladleful  of  the  gravy ;  stir  it  quick ;  add  tho 
rest  by  degrees,  till  it  is  all  well  mixed ;  then  pour  it  back 
into  a  stew-pan,  and  leave  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to  sim- 
mer for  half  an  hour  longer,  that  the  thickening  may  tho- 
roughly incorporate  with  the  gravy,  the  stew-pan  being  only 
half  covered,  stirring  it  every  now  and  then ;  a  sort  of  scum 
will  gather  on  the  top,  which  it  is  best  not  to  take  off  till  you 
are  ready  to  strain  it  through  a  tamis.  J 

Take  care  it  is  neither  of  too  pale  nor  too  dark  a  colour ; 
if  it  is  not  thick  enough,  let  it  stew  longer,  till  it  is  reduced 
to  the  desired  thickness ;  or  add  a  bit  of  glaze,  or  portable 
soup  to  it,  see  No.  252 :  if  it  is  too  thick,  you  can  easily  thin 
it  with  a  spoonful  or  two  of  warm  broth,  or  water.  When 
your  sauce  is  done,  stir  it  in  the  basin  you  put  it  into  once  or 
twice,  while  it  is  cooling. 

real  Broth.— (No.  191.) 

A  knuckle  of  veal  is  best ;  manage  it  as  directed  in  the 
receipt  for  beef  broth  (No.  185*),  only  take  care  not  to  let 
it  catch  any  colour,  as  this  and  the  following  and  richer  pre- 
paration of  veal,  are  chiefly  used  for  white  soups,  sauces,  &c. 

To  make  white  sauce,  see  No.  364*. 

Feal  Gravy.— (No.  192.) 
About  three  pounds  of  the  nut  of  the  leg  of  veal,  cut  into 

*  Truffles,  morells,  and  mushrooms,  catchups  and  wines,  &c.  are  added  by  those 
who  are  for  the  extreme  of  haul  gout. 

t  The  general  rule  is  to  put  in  about  a  pint  of  water  to  a  pound  of  meat,  if  it  only 
«mimers  very  gently. 

%  A  tamis  is  a  worsted  cloth,  sold  at  the  oil  shops,  made  on  purpose  for  straining 
«auces :  the  best  way  for  using  it  is  for  two  people  to  twist  it  contrary  ways.  This 
ia  a  better  way  of  straining  sauce  than  through  a  sieve,  and  refines  it  much  more 
completely. 


196  BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS, 

half-pound  slices,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ham  in  small 
dice ;  proceed  as  directed  for  the  beef  gravy  (No.  186),  but 
watch  the  time  of  putting  in  the  water ;  if  this  is  poured  in 
too  soon,  the  gravy  will  not  have  its  true  flavour,  if  it  be  let 
alone  till  the  meat  sticks  too  much  to  the  pan,  it  will  catch 
too  brown  a  colour. 

Knuckle  of  Veal,  or  Shin  or  Leg  of  Beef,  Soup.—(No.  193.)  ] 

A  knuckle  of  veal  of  six  pounds  weight  will  make  a  large 
tureen  of  excellent  soup,  and  is  thus  easily  prepared :  cut 
half  a  pound  of  bacon  into  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick, 
lay  it  at  the  bottom  of  a  soup-kettle,  or  deep  stew-pan,  and 
on  this  place  the  knuckle  of  veal,  having  first  chopped  the 
bone  in  two  or  three  places ;  furnish  it  with  two  carrots,  two 
turnips,  a  head  of  celery,  two  large  onions,  with  two  or  three 
cloves  stuck  in  one  of  them,  a  dozen  corns  of  black,  and  the 
same  of  Jamaica  pepper,  and  a  good  bundle  of  lemon-thyme, 
winter  savoury,  and  parsley.  Just  cover  the  meat  with  cold 
water,  and  set  it  over  a  quick  fire  till  it  boils ;  having  skimmed 
it  well,  remove  your  soup-kettle  to  the  side  of  the  fire ;  let  it 
stew  very  gently  till  it  is  quite  tender,  i.  e.  about  four  hours ; 
then  take  out  the  bacon  and  veal,  strain  the  soup,  and  set  it 
by  in  a  cool  place  till  you  want  it,  when  you  must  take  off 
the  fat  from  the  surface  of  your  liquor,  and  decant  it  (keep- 
ing back  the  settlings  at  the  bottom)  into  a  clean  pan. 

If  you  like  a  thickened  soup,  put  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
the  fat  you  have  taken  off  the  soup  into  a  small  stew-pan, 
and  mix  it  with  four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  pour  a  ladleful 
of  soup  to  it,  and  mix  it  with  the  rest  by  degrees,  and  boil  it 
up  till  it  is  smooth. 

Cut  the  meat  and  gristle  of  the  knuckle  and  the  bacon 
into  mouthfuls,  and  put  them  into  the  soup,  and  let  them 
get  warm. 

Obs.  You  may  make  this  more  savoury  by  adding  catchup 
(No.  439),  &c.  Shin  of  beef  may  be  dressed  in  the  same 
way ;  see  Knuckle  of  Veal  stewed  with  Rice  (No.  523). 

Mutton  Broth.— (No.  194.) 

Take  two  pounds  of  scrag  of  mutton ;  to  take  the  blood 
out,  put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  and  cover  it  with  cold  water ; 
when  the  water  becomes  milk- warm,  pour  it  off;  then  put  it 
in  four  or  five  pints  of  water,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  a 
table-spoonful  of  best  grits,  and  an  onion;  set  it  on  a  slow 
fire,  and  when  you  have  taken  all  the  scum  off,  put  in  two  or 


BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS.  197 

three  turnips ;  let  it  simmer  very  slowly  for  two  hours,  and 
strain  it  through  a  clean  sieve. 

This  usual  method  of  making  mutton  broth  with  the 
scrag,  is  by  no  means  the  most  economical  method  of  ob- 
taining it ;  for  which  see  Nos.  490  and  564. 

O6«.  You  may  thicken  broth  by  boiling  with  it  a  little  oat- 
meal, rice,  Scotch  or  pearl  barley ;  when  you  make  it  for  a 
sick  person,  read  the  Obs.  on  Broths,  &c.  in  the  last  page  of 
the  7th  chapter  of  the  Rudiments  of  Cookery,  and  No.  564. 

Mock  Mutton  Broth,  without  Meaty  in  five  minutest — (No.  195.) 

Boil  a  few  leaves  of  parsley  with  two  tea-spoonfuls  of 
mushroom  catchup,  in  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  very  thin 
gruel*  (No.  572).  Season  with  a  little  salt. 

O6«.  This  is  improved  by  a  few  drops  of  eschalot  wine 
(No.  402),  and  the  same  of  essence  of  sweet  herbs  (No.  419). 
See  also  Portable  Soup  (No.  252). 

The  Queen's  Morning  "Bouillon  de  Santtf— (No.  196.) 

Sir  Kenelm  Digby,  in  his  "  Closet  of  Cookery,"  p.  149, 
London,  1669,  informs  us,  was  made  with  "  a  brawny  hen,  or 
young  cock,  a  handful  of  parsley,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  three 
of  spearmint,  a  little  balm,  half  a  great  onion,  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  and  a  clove,  with  as  much  water  as  will  cover 
them ;  and  this  boiled  to  less  than  a  pint  for  one  good  por- 
ringerful." 

Ox-heel  Jelly.— (No.  198.) 

Slit  them  in  two,  and  take  away  the  fat  between  the  claws. 
The  proportion  of  water  to  each  heel  is  about  a  quart :  let.it 
simmer  gently  for  eight  hours  (keeping  it  clean  skimmed) ; 
it  will  make  a  pint  and  a  half  of  strong  jelly,  which  is  fre- 
quently used  to  make  calves'  feet  jelly  (No.  481),  or  to  add  to 
mock  turtle  and  other  soups.  See  No.  240*.  This  jelly 
evaporated,  as  directed  in  No.  S52,  will  give  about  three 
ounces  and  a  half  of  strong  glaze.  An  unboiled  heel  costs 
one  shilling  and  threepence:  so  this  glaze,  which  is  very 
inferior  in  flavour  to  No.  252,  is  quite  as  expensive  as  that  is. 

N.B.  To  dress  the  heels,  see  No.  18. 

Obs.  Get  a  heel  that  has  only  been  scalded,  not  one  of 

*  By  this  method,  it  is  said,  an  ingenious  cook  long  deceived  a  large  family,  who 
were  all  fond  of  weak  mutton  broth.  Mushroom  gravy,  or  catchup  (No.  439), 
approaches  the  nature  and  flavour  of  meat  gravy,  more  than  any  vegetable  juice, 
and  is  the  best  substitute  for  it  in  maigre  soups  and  extempore  sauces,  that  culinary 
chemistry  has  yet  produced. 

R2 


198  BROTHS,    OKAV1ES   AND    SOUPS. 

those  usually  sold  at  the  tripe-shops,  which  have  been  boiled 
till  almost  all  the  gelatine  is  extracted. 

Clear  Gravy  Soups.— (No.  200.) 

Cut  half  a  pound  of  ham  into  slices,  and  lay  them  at  the 
bottom  of  a  large  stew-pan  or  stock-pot,  with  two  or  three 
pounds  of  lean  beef,  and  as  much  veal ;  break  the  bones,  and 
[ay  them  on  the  meat ;  take  off  the  outer  skin  of  two  large 
onions  and  two  turnips ;  wash,  clean,  and  cut  into  pieces  a 
couple  of  large  carrots,  and  two  heads  of  celery;  and  put  in 
three  cloves  and  a  large  blade  of  mace.  Cover  the  stew-pan 
close,  and  set  it  over  a  smart  fire.  When  the  meat  begins  to 
stick  to  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan,  turn  it ;  and  when  there 
is  a  nice  brown*  glaze  at  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan,  cover 
the  meat  with  hot  water :  watch  it,  and  when  it  is  coming  to 
boil  put  in  half  a  pint  of  cold  water ;  take  off  the  scum ;  then 
put  in  half  a  pint  more  cold  water,  and  skim  it  again,  and 
continue  to  do  so  till  no  more  scum  rises.  Now  set  it  on  one 
side  of  the  fire  to  boil  gently  for  about  four  hours ;  strain  it 
through  a  clean  tamis  or  napkin  (do  not  squeeze  it,  or  the 
soup  will  be  thick)  into  a  clean  stone  pan ;  let  it  remain  till 
it  is  cold,  and  then  remove  all  the  fat.  When  you  decant  it, 
be  careful  not  to  disturb  the  settlings  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 

The  broth  should  be  of  a  fine  amber  colour,  and  as  clear  as 
rock  water.  If  it  is  not  quite  so  bright  as  you  wish  it,  put  it 
into  a  stew-pan;  break  two  whites  and  shells  of  eggs  into  a 
basin;  beat  them  well  together;  put  them  into  the  soup :  set 
it  on  a  quick  fire,  and  stir  it  with  a  whisk  till  it  boils ;  then 
set  it  on  one  side  of  the  fire  to  settle  for  ten  minutes ;  run  it 
through  a  fine  napkin  into  a  basin,  and  it  is  ready. 

However,  if  your  broth  is  carefully  skimmed,  &c.  accord- 
ing to  the  directions  above  given,  it  will  be  clear  enough 
without  clarifying ;  which  process  impairs  the  flavour  of  it  in 
a  higher  proportion  than  it  improves  its  appearance. 

Obs. — This  is  the  basis  of  almost  all  gravy  soups,  which 
are  called  by  the  name  of  the  vegetables  that  are  put 
into  them. 

Carrots,  turnips,  onions,  celery,  and  a  few  leaves  of  cher- 
vil, make  what  is  called  spring  soup,  or  soup  sante;  to 
this  a  pint  of  green  pease,  or  asparagus  pease,  or  French 
beans  cut  into  pieces,  or  a  cabbage  lettuce,  are  an  im- 
provement. 

With  rice  or  Scotch  barley,  with  macaroni  or  vermicelli, 
or  celery  cut  into  lengths,  it  will  be  the  soup  usually  called 
by  those  names. 


BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS.  199 

Or  turnips  scooped  round,  or  young  onions,  will  give  you 
a  clear  turnip  or  onion  soup ;  and  all  these  vegetables  mixed 
together,  soup  GRESSI. 

The  gravy  for  all  these  soups  may  be  produced  extempore 
with  No.  252. 

The  roots  and  vegetables  you  use  must  be  boiled  first,  or 
they  will  impregnate  the  soup  with  too  strong  a  flavour. 

The  seasoning'  for  all  these  soups  is  the  same,  viz.  salt 
and  a  very  little  Cayenne  pepper. 

N.B.  To  make  excellent  vegetable  gravy  soup  for  4$d.  a 
quart,  see  No.  224. 

Scotch  Barley  Broth ; — a  good  and  substantial  dinner  for 
fivepence  per  head. — (No.  204.) 

Wash  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  Scotch  barley  in  a 
little  cold  water ;  put  it  in  a  soup-pot  with  a  shin  or  leg  of 
beef,  of  about  ten  pounds  weight,  sawed  into  four  pieces 
(tell  the  butcher  to  do  this  for  you) ;  cover  it  well  with  cold 
water ;  set  it  on  the  fire :  when  it  boils  skim  it  very  clean, 
and  put  in  two  onions  of  about  three  ounces  weight  each ; 
set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to  simmer  very  gently  about  two 
hours ;  then  skim  all  the  fat  clean  off,  and  put  in  two  heads 
of  celery,  and  a  large  turnip  cut  into  small  squares ;  season 
it  with  salt,  and  let  it  boil  an  hour  and  a  half  longer,  and  it 
is  ready:  take  out  the  meat  (carefully  with  a  slice,  and 
cover  it  up,  and  set  it  by  the  fire  to  keep  warm),  and  skim 
the  broth  well  before  you  put  it  in  the  tureen. 

5.  d. 

Shin  of  beef  of  lOlbs 2  0 

%  pound  of  barley 0  4* 

2  onions,  of  about  3  oz.  weight  each...    0  0| 

Celery 0  1 

Large  turnip 0  1 

2    7 

Thus  you  get  four  quarts  of  good  soup  at  8c?.  per  quart, 
besides  another  quart  to  make  sauce  for  the  meat,  in  the 
following  manner : 

Put  a  quart  of  the  soup  into  a  basin;  put  about  an 
ounce  of  flour  into  a  stew-pan,  and  pour  the  broth  to  it 
by  degrees,  stirring  it  well  together;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and 
stir  it  till  it  boils;  then  (some  put  in  a  glass  of  port 
wine,  or  mushroom  catchup,  No.  439)  let  it  boil  up,  and  it  is 
ready. 

Put  the  meat  in  a  ragout  dish,  and  strain  the  sauce  through 


200  BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS. 

a  sieve  over  the  meat ;  you  may  put  to  it  some  capers,  or 
minced  gherkins  or  walnuts,  £c. 

If  the  beef  has  been  stewed  with  proper  care  in  a  very 
gentle  manner,  and  be  taken  up  at "  the  critical  moment  when 
it  is  just  tender,"  you  will  obtain  an  excellent  and  savoury 
meal  for  eight  people  for  fivepence ;  i.  e.  for  only  the  cost  of 
the  glass  of  port  wine. 

If  you  use  veal,  cover  the  meat  with  No.  364 — 2. 

Obs. — This  is  a  most  frugal,  agreeable,  and  nutritive 
meal ;  it  will  neither  lighten  the  purse,  nor  lie  heavy  on  the 
stomach,  and  will  furnish  a  plentiful  and  pleasant  soup  and 
meat  for  eight  persons.  So  you  may  give  a  good  dinner  for 
5d.  per  head ! ! !  See  also  Nos.  229  and  239. 

N.B.  If  you  will  draw  your  purse-strings  a  little  wider, 
and  allow  Id.  per  mouth  more,  prepare  a  pint  of  young 
onions  as  directed  in  No.  296,  and  garnish  the  dish  with 
them,  or  some  carrots  or  turnips  cut  into  squares  ;  and  for 
Gd.  per  head  you  will  have  as  good  a  RAGOUT  as  "  le  Cuisinier 
Imperial  de  France"  can  give  you  for  as  many  shillings. 
Read  Obs.  to  No.  493. 

Ycu  may  vary  the  flavour  by  adding  a  little  curry  powder 
(No.  455),  ragout  (No.  457,  &c.),  or  any  of  the  store  sauces 
and  flavouring  essences  between  Nos.  396  and  463 ;  you  may 
garnish  the  dish  with  split  pickled  mangoes,  walnuts,  gher- 
kins, onions,  &c.  See  Wow  wow  Sauce,  No.  328. 

If  it  is  made  the  evening  before  the  soup  is  wanted, 
and  suffered  to  stand  till  it  is  cold,  much  fat*  may  be 
removed  from  the  surface  of  the  soup,  which  is,  when 
clarified  (No.  83),  useful  for  all  the  purposes  that  drippings 
are  applied  to. 

Scotch  Soups.— (No.  205.) 

The  three  following  receipts  are  the  contribution  of  a 
friend  at  Edinburgh. 

Winter  Hotch-potch, 

Take  the  best  end  of  a  neck  or  loin  of  mutton ;  cut  it  into 
neat  chops ;  cut  four  carrots,  and  as  many  turnips  into 
slices ;  put  on  four  quarts  of  water,  with  half  the  carrots 
and  turnips,  and  a  whole  one  of  each,  with  a  pound  of  dried 
green  pease,  which  must  be  put  to  soak  the  night  before ; 
let  it  boil  two  hours,  then  take  out  the  whole  carrot  and  tur- 

*  See  "L'Jrt  de  Cnitmier,"  par  A.  Beauvillier,  Paria,  1814,  p.  68.  "I  have 
learned  by  experience,  that  of  all  the  fats  that  are  used  for  frying,  the  pot  top  which 
Js  taken  from  the  surface  of  the  broth  and  stock-pot  is  by  far  the  best." 


BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS.  201 

nip ;  bruise  and  return  them ;  put  in  the  meat,  and  the  rest 
of  the  carrot  and  turnip,  some  pepper  and  salt,  and  boil 
slowly  three-quarters  of  an  hour;  a  short  time  before  servingy 
add  an  onion  cut  small  and  a  head  of  celery. 

Cocky-leeky  Soup* 

Take  a  scrag  of  mutton,  or  shank  of  veal,  three  quarts  of 
water  (or  liquor  in  which  meat  has  been  boiled),  and  a  good- 
sized  fowl,  with  two  or  three  leeks  cut  in  pieces  about  an 
inch  long,  pepper  and  salt ;  boil  slowly  about  an  hour :  then 
put  in  as  many  more  leeks,  and  give  it  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  longer :  this  is  very  good,  made  of  good  beef-stock, 
and  leeks  put  in  at  twice. 

Lamb  Stove,  or  Lamb  Stew. 

Take  a  lamb's  head  and  lights ;  open  the  jaws  of  the  head, 
and  wash  them  thoroughly ;  put  them  in  a  pot  with  some 
beef-stock,  made  with  three  quarts  of  water,  and  two  pounds 
of  shin  of  beef,  strained ;  boil  very  slowly  for  an  hour;  wash 
and  string  two  or  three  good  handfuls  of  spinach  (or 
spinage);  put  it  in  twenty  minutes  before  serving;  add  a 
little  parsley,  and  one  or  two  onions,  a  short  time  before  it 
comes  off  the  fire  ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  serve 
all  together  in  a  tureen. 

Scotch  Brose.—(No.  205*,) 

"  This  favourite  Scotch  dish  is  generally  made  with  the 
liquor  meat  has  been  boiled  in. 

"  Put  half  a  pint  of  oatmeal  into  a  porringer  with  a  little 
salt,  if  there  be  not  enough  in  the  broth,  of  which  add  as 
much  as  will  mix  it  to  the  consistence  of  hasty-pudding,  or 
a  little  thicker ;  lastly,  take  a  little  of  the  fat  that  swims  on 
ihe  broth,  and  put  it  on  the  crowdie,  and  eat  it  in  the  same 
way  as  hasty-pudding." 

Obs. — This  Scotsman's  dish  is  easily  prepared  at  very  little 
expense,  and  is  pleasant-tasted  and  nutritious.  To  dress  a 
haggies,  see  No.  488*,  and  Minced  Collops,  following  it. 

N.B.  For  various  methods  of  making  and  flavouring"  oat- 
meal gruel,  see  No.  572. 

Carrot  Soup.— (No.  212.) 

Scrape  and  wash  half  a  dozen  large  carrots  ;  peel  off  the 
red  outside  (which  is  the  only  part  used  for  this  soup) ;  put 
it  into  a  gallon  stew-pan,  with  one  head  of  celery,  and  an 


202  BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AKD  SOUPS. 

onion,  cut  into  thin  pieces ;  take  two  quarts  of  beef,  veal,  or 
mutton  broth,  or  if  you  have  any  cold  roast-beef  bones  (or 
liquor,  in  which  mutton  or  beef  has  been  boiled),  you  may 
make  very  good  broth  for  this  soup  :  when  you  have  put  the 
broth  to  the  roots,  cover  the  stew-pan  close,  and  set  it  on  a 
slow  stove  for  two  hours  and  a  half,  when  the  carrots  will 
be  soft  enough  (some  cooks  put  in  a  tea-cupful  of  bread- 
crumbs) ;  boil  for  two  or  three  minutes ;  rub  it  through  a 
tamis,  or  hair-sieve,  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  add  as  much 
broth  as  will  make  it  a  proper  thickness, i.  e.  almost  as  thick 
as  pease  soup :  put  it  into  a  clean  stew-pan ;  make  it  hot ; 
season  it  with  a  little  salt,  and  send  it  up  with  some  toasted 
bread,  cut  into  pieces  half  an  inch  square.  Some  put  it  into 
the  soup ;  but  the  best  way  is  to  send  it  up  on  a  plate,  as  a 
side-dish. 

Obs.  This  is  neither  expensive  nor  troublesome  to  pre- 
pare. In  the  kitchens  of  some  opulent  epicures,  to  make  this 
soup  make  a  little  stronger  impression  on  the  gustatory 
organs  of  "  grands  gourmands,"  the  celery  and  onions  are 
sliced,  and  fried  in  butter  of  a  light  brown,  the  soup  is  poured 
into  the  stew-pan  to  them,  and  all  is  boiled  up  together.  But 
this  must  be  done  very  carefully  with  butter,  or  very  nicely 
clarified  fat;  and  the  "grand  cuisinier"  adds  spices,  &c, 
"  ad  libitum." 

Turnip  and  Parsnip  Soups,— (No.  213.) 
Are  made  in  the  same  manner  as  the  carrot  soup  (No.  212.) 

Celery  Soup.— (No.  214.) 

Split  half  a  dozen  heads  of  celery  into  slips  about  two 
inches  long ;  wash  them  well ;  lay  them  on  a  hair-sieve  to 
drain,  and  put  them  into  three  quarts  of  No.  200  in  a  gallon 
soup-pot ;  set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to  stew  very  gently 
till  the  celery  is  tender  (this  will  take  about  an  hour).  If  any 
scum  rises,  take  it  off;  season  with  a  little  salt. 

Obs.  When  celery  cannot  be  procured,  half  a  drachm  of 
the  seed,  pounded  fine,  which  may  be  considered  as  the 
essence  of  celery  (costs  only  one-third  of  a  farthing,  and  can 
be  had  at  any  season),  put  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  the 
soup  is  done,  and  a  little  sugar,  will  give  as  much  flavour  to 
half  a  gallon  of  soup  as  two  heads  of  celery  weighing  seven 
ounces,  and  costing  2r/. ;  or  add  a  little  essence  of  celery, 
No.  409. 


BROTHS,    GRAVIES,    AND    SOUPS.  203 

Green  Pease  Soup.— (No.  216.) 

A  peck  of  pease  will  make  you  a  good  tureen  of  soup.  In 
shelling  them,  put  the  old  ones  in  one  basin,  and  the  young 
ones  in  another,  and  keep  out  a  pint  of  them,  and  boil  them 
separately  to  put  into  your  soup  when  it  is  finished :  put  a 
large  saucepan  on  the  fire  half  full  of  water ;  when  it  boils, 
put  the  pease  in,  with  a  handful  of  salt ;  let  them  boil  till 
they  are  done  enough,  i.  e.  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes, 
according  to  their  age  and  size ;  then  drain  them  in  a  colan- 
der, and  put  them  into  a  clean  gallon  stew-pan,  and  three 
quarts  of  plain  veal  or  mutton  broth  (drawn  from  meat  with- 
out any  spices  or  herbs,  &c.  which  would  overpower  the 
flavour  of  the  soup) ;  cover  the  stew-pan  close,  and  set  it 
over  a  slow  fire  to  stew  gently  for  an  hour ;  add  a  tea-cupful 
of  bread-crumbs,  and  then  rub  it  through  a  tamis  into  another 
stew-pan ;  stir  it  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  if  it  is  too  thick, 
add  a  little  more  broth :  have  ready  boiled  as  for  eating,  a 
pint  of  young  pease,  and  put  them  into  the  soup ;  season  with 
a  little  salt  and  sugar. 

N.B.  Some  cooks,  while  this  soup  is  going  on,  slice  a 
couple  of  cucumbers  (as  you  would  for  eating) ;  take  out  the 
seeds ;  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain,  and  then  flour  them,  and 
fry  them  a  light  brown  in  a  little  butter ;  put  them  into  the 
soup  the  last  thing  before  it  goes  to  table. 

Obs.  If  the  soup  is  not  green  enough,  pound  a  handful  of 
pea-hulls  or  spinage$  and  squeeze  the  juice  through  a  cloth 
into  the  soup :  some  leaves  of  mint  may  be  added,  if  approved. 

Plain  green  Pease  Soup  without  Meat. — (No.  217.) 

Take  a  quart  of  green  pease  (keep  out  half  a  pint  of  the 
youngest ;  boil  them  separately,  and  put  them  in  the  soup 
when  it  is  finished) ;  put  them  on  in  boiling  water ;  boil  them 
tender,  and  then  pour  off  the  water,  and  set  it  by  to  make  the 
soup  with  :  put  the  pease  into  a  mortar,  and  pound  them  to  a 
mash;  then  put  them  into  two  quarts  of  the  water  you  boiled 
the  pease  in ;  stir  all  well  together ;  let  it  boil  up  for  about 
five  minutes,  and  then  rub  it  through  a  hair-sieve  or  tamis. 
If  the  pease  are  good,  it  will  be  as  thick  and  fine  a  vegetable 
soup  as  need  be  sent  to  table. 

Pease  Soup.— (No.  218.) 
The  common  way  of  making  pease  soup*  is — to  a  quart 

*  To  maie  pease  pottage,  double  the  quantity.  Those  who  often  make  pease 
soup  should  have  a  mill,  and  grind  the  pease  just  before  they  dress  them;  a  less 
quantity  will  suffice,  and  the  soup  will  be  much  sooner  made. 


£04  BROTHS,   GKAVIES,   AND   SOUPS. 

of  split  pease  put  three  quarts  of  cold  soft  water,  not  more, 
(or  it  will  be  what  "  Jack  Ros-bif "  calls  "  soup  maigre,") 
notwithstanding  Mother  Glasse  orders  a  gallon  (and  her 
ladyship's  directions  have  been  copied  by  almost  ever}' 
cookery-book  maker  who  has  strung  receipts  together  since), 
with  half  a  pound  of  bacon  (not  very  fat),  or  roast-beef  bones, 
or  four  anchovies  :  or,  instead  of  the  water,  three  quarts  of 
the  liquor  in  which  beef,  mutton,  pork,  or  poultry  has  been 
boiled,  tasting  it  first,  to  make  sure  it  is  not  too  salt.* 

Wash  two  heads  of  celery  ;t  cut  it,  and  put  it  in,  with  two 
onions  peeled,  and  a  sprig  of  savoury,  or  sweet  marjoram,  or 
lemon-thyme;  set  it  on  the  trivet,  and  let  it  simmer  very 
gently  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  it  every  quarter  of  an  hour 
(to  keep  the  pease  from  sticking  to,  and  burning  at,  the  bot- 
tom of  the  soup-pot)  till  the  pease  are  tender,  which  will  be  in 
about  three  hours.  Some  cooks  now  slice  a  head  of  celery, 
and  half  an  ounce  of  onions,  and  fry  them  in  a  little  butter, 
and  put  them  into  the  soup  till  they  are  lightly  browned ; 
then  work  the  whole  through  a  coarse  hair-sieve,  and  then 
through  a  fine  sieve,  or  (what  is  better)  through  a  tamis,  with 
the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon :  put  it  into  a  clean  stew-pan, 
with  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  ground  black  pepper ;}  let  it  boil 
again  for  ten  minutes,  and  if  any  fat  arises,  skim  it  off. 

Send  up  on  a  plate,  toasted  bread  cut  into  little  pieces  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  square,  or  cut  a  slice  of  bread  (that  has- 
been  baked  two  days)  into  dice,  not  more  than  half  an  inch 
square ;  put  half  a  pound  of  perfectly  clean  drippings  or  lard 
into  an  iron  frying-pan ;  when  it  is  hot,  fry  the  bread ;  take 
care  and  turn  it  about  with  a  slice,  or  by  shaking  of  the  pan 
as  it  is  frying,  that  it  may  be  on  each  side  of  a  delicate  light 
brown,  (No.  319 ;)  take  it  up  with  a  fish-slice,  and  lay  it  on  a 
sheet  of  paper  to  drain  the  fat :  be  careful  that  this  is  done 
nicely :  send  these  up  in  one  side-dish,  and  dried  and  pow- 
dered mint  or  savoury,  or  sweet  marjoram,  &c.  in  another. 

Those  who  are  for  a  double  relish,  and  are  true  lovers  of 
"  haut  gout"  may  have  some  bacon  cut  into  small  squares 
like  the  bread,  and  fried  till  it  is  crisp,  or  some  little  lumps 
of  boiled  pickled  pork ;  or  put  cucumber  fried  into  this  soup. 
as  you  have  directions  in  No.  216. 

*  If  the  liquor  is  very  salt,  the  pease  will  never  boil  tender.  Therefore,  when 
you  make  pease  soup  with  the  liquor  in  which  salted  pork  or  beef  has  been  boiled, 
tie  up  the  pease  in  a  cloth,  and  boil  them  first  for  an  hour  in  soft  water. 

f  Haifa  drachm  of  celery-seed,  pounded  tine,  and  put  into  the  soup  a  quarter  o? 
an  hour  before  it  is  finished,  will  flavour  three  quarts. 

j  Some  put  in  dried  mint  rubbed  to  fine  powder ;  but  as  every  body  does  not  liko 
mint,  it  is  b«st  to  send  it  up  on  a  plate.  See  pease  powder,  No.  458,  essence  of 
.•H'lery,  No.  409,  anil  Nos.  457  and  459. 


BROTHS,    GRAVIES,   AND  SOUPS.  2(Kr> 

Obs.  The  most  economical  method  of  making  pease  soup, 
is  to  save  the  bones  of  a  joint  of  roast  beef,  and  put  them  into 
the  liquor  in  which  mutton,  or  beef,  or  pork,  or  poultry,  has 
been  boiled,  and  proceed  as  in  the  above  receipt.  A  hock,  or 
shank-bone  of  ham,  a  ham-bone,  the  root  of  a  tongue,  or  a 
red  or  pickled  herring,  are  favourite  additions  with  some 
cooks ;  others  send  up  rice  or  vermicelli  with  pease  soup.* 

N.B.  To  make  pease  soup  extempore,  see  No.  555. 

If  you  wish  to  make  soup  the  same  day  you  boil  meat  or 
poultry,  prepare  the  pease  the  same  as  for  pease  pudding 
(No.  555),  to  which  you  may  add  an  onion  and  a  head  of 
celery,  when  you  rub  the  pease  through  the  sieve ;  instead 
of  putting  eggs  and  butter,  add  some  of  the  liquor  from  the 
pot  to  make  it  a  proper  thickness ;  put  it  on  to  boil  for  five 
minutes,  and  it  is  ready. 

Obs.  This  latter  is  by  far  the  easiest  and  the  best  way  of 
making  pease  soup. 

Pease  soup  may  be  made  savoury  and  agreeable  to  the 
palate,  without  any  meat,  by  incorporating  two  ounces  of 
fresh  and  nicely-clarified  beef,  mutton,  or  pork  drippings  (see 
No.  83),  with  two  ounces  of  oatmeal,  and  mixing  this  well 
into  the  gallon  of  soup,  made  as  above  directed :  see  also 
No.  229. 

Pease  Soup  and  pickled  Porfc,— (No.  220.) 

A  couple  of  pounds  of  the  belly  part  of  pickled  pork  will 
make  very  good  broth  for  pease  soup,  if  the  pork  be  not  too 
salt ;  if  it  has  been  in  salt  more  than  two  days,  it  must  be  laid 
in  water  the  night  before  it  is  used. 

Put  on  the  ingredients  mentioned  in  No.  218,  in  three 
quarts  of  water ;  boil  gently  for  two  hours,  then  put  in  the 
pork,  and  boil  very  gently  till  it  is  done  enough  to  eat ;  this 
will  take  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  or  two  hours  longer,  ac- 
cording to  its  thickness ;  when  done,  wash  the  pork  clean  in 
hot  water,  send  it  up  in  a  dish,  or  cut  it  into  mouthfuls,  and 
put  it  into  the  soup  in  the  tureen,  with  the  accompaniments 
ordered  in  No.  218. 

*  My  witty  predecessor,  Dr.  HUNTER  (see  Culina,  page  97),  says,  "Tf  a  proper 
quantity  of  curry-powder  (No.  455)  be  added  to  pease  soup,  a  good  soup  might  be 
made,  under  the  title  of  curry  pease  noun.  Heliogabalus  offered  rewards  for  the 
discovery  of  a  new  dish,  and  the  British  Parliament  have  given  notoriety  to  inven- 
tions of  much  less  importance  than  '  curry  pease  soup.'  " 

N.B.  Celery,  or  carrots,  or  turnips,  shredded,  or  cut  in  squares  (or  Scotch  barley, 
— in  the  latter  case  the  soup  must  be  rather  thinner),  or  cut  into  bits  about  an  inch 
Ions,  and  boiled  separately,  and  thrown  into  the  tureen  when  the  soup  is  going  to 
table,  will  give  another  agreeable  variety,  and  may  be  called  celery  and  pease  soup. 
Read  Obs.  to  No.  214 


206  BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND   SOUPS. 

Obs.  The  meat  being  boiled  no  longer  than  to  be  done 
enough  to  be  eaten,  you  get  excellent  soup,  without  any  ex- 
pense of  meat  destroyed. 

"  In  Canada,  the  inhabitants  live  three-fourths  of  the  year 
on  pease  soup,  prepared  with  salt  pork,  which  is  boiled  till 
the  fat  is  entirely  dissolved  among  the  soup,  giving  it  a  rich 
flavour."— The  Hon.  J.  COCHRANE'S  Seaman's  Guide,  8vo. 
1797,  p.  JJ1. 

Plain  Pease  Soup.— (No.  221.) 

To  a  quart  of  split  pease,  and  two  heads  of  celery,  (and 
most  cooks  would  put  a  large  onion,)  put  three  quarts  of 
broth  or  soft  water ;  let  them  simmer  gently  on  a  trivet  over 
a  slow  fire  for  three  hours,  stirring  up  every  quarter  of  an 
hour  to  prevent  the  pease  burning  at  the  bottom  of  the  soup- 
kettle  (if  the  water  boils  away,  and  the  soup  gets  too  thick, 
add  some  boiling  water  to  it) ;  when  they  are  well  softened, 
work  them  through  a  coarse  sieve,  and  then  through  a  fine 
sieve  or  a  tamis ;  wash  out  your  stew-pan,  and  then  return 
the  soup  into  it,  and  give  it  a  boil  up ;  take  off  any  scum  that 
comes  up,  and  it  is  ready.  Prepare  fried  bread,  and  dried 
mint,  as  directed  in  No.  218,  and  send  them  up  with  it  on  two 
side  dishes. 

Obs.  This  is  an  excellent  family  soup,  produced  with  very 
little  trouble  or  expense. 

Most  of  the  receipts  for  pease  soup  are  crowded  with  in- 
gredients which  entirely  overpower  the  flavour  of  the  pease. 
See  No.  555. 

Asparagus  Soup. — (No.  222.) 

This  is  made  with  the  points  of  asparagus,  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  green  pease  soup  (No.  216  or  17)  is  with 
pease :  let  half  the  asparagus  be  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  and 
the  other  cut  in  pieces  about  an  inch  long,  and  boiled  till 
done  enough,  and  sent  up  in  the  soup :  to  make  two  quarts, 
there  must  be  a  pint  of  heads  to  thicken  it,  and  half  a  pint 
cut  in ;  take  care  to  preserve  these  green  and  a  little  crisp. 
This  soup  is  sometimes  made  by  adding  the  asparagus  heads 
to  common  pease  soup. 

Obs.  Some  cooks  fry  half  an  ounce  of  onion  in  a  little- 
butter,  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  and  add  it  with  the  other 
ingredients ;  the  kaut  gout  of  the  onion  will  entirely  over- 
come the  delicate  flavour  of  the  asparagus,  and  we  protest 
against  all  such  combinations. 


BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND   SOUPS.  207 

Maigre,  or  Vegetable  Gravy  Soup.*— (No.  224.) 

Put  into  a  gallon  stew-pan  three  ounces  of  butter ;  set  it 
over  a  slow  fire ;  while  it  is  melting,  slice  four  ounces  of 
onion ;  cut  in  small  pieces  one  turnip,  one  carrot,  and  a  head 
of  celery ;  put  them  in  the  stewpan,  cover  it  close,  let  it  fry 
till  they  are  lightly  browned ;  this  will  take  about  twenty- 
five  minutes :  have  ready,  in  a  sauce-pan,  a  pint  of  pease, 
with  four  quarts  of  water ;  when  the  roots  in  the  stew-pan 
are  quite  brown,  and  the  pease  come  to  a  boil,  put  the  pease 
and  water  to  them  ;  put  it  on  the  fire ;  when  it  boils,  skim  it 
clean,  and  put  in  a  crust  of  bread  about  as  big  as  the  top  of 
a  twopenny  loaf,  twenty-four  berries  of  allspice,  the  same 
of  black  pepper,  and  two  blades  of  mace ;  cover  it  close, 
let  it  simmer  gently  for  one  hour  and  a  half;  then  set  it  from 
the  fire  for  ten  minutes ;  then  pour  it  off  very  gently  (so  as 
not  to  disturb  the  sediment  at  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan) 
into  a  large  basin ;  let  it  stand  (about  two  hours)  till  it  is  quite 
clear :  while  this  is  doing,  shred  one  large  turnip,  the  red  part 
of  a  large  carrot,  three  ounces  of  onion  minced,  and  one 
large  head  of  celery  cut  into  small  bits ;  put  the  turnips  and 
carrots  on  the  fire  in  cold  water,  let  them  boil  five  minutes, 
then  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  then  pour  off  the  soup  clear  into 
a  stew-pan,  put  in  the  roots,  put  the  soup  on  the  fire,  let  it 
simmer  gently  till  the  herbs  are  tender  (from  thirty  to  forty 
minutes),  season  it  with  salt  and  a  little  Cayenne,  and  it  is 
ready. 

You  may  add  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup 
(No.  439). 

Obs.  You  will  have  three  quarts  of  soup,  as  well  coloured, 
and  almost  as  well  flavoured,  as  if  made  with  gravy  meat. 

N.B.  To  make  this  it  requires  nearly  five  hours.  To  fry 
the  herbs  requires  twenty-five  minutes ;  to  boil  all  together, 
one  hour  and  a  half ;  to  settle,  at  the  least,  two  hours ;  when 
'•lear,  and  put  on  the  fire  again,  half  an  hour  more. 

FISH  SOUPS.- (No.  225.) 
Eel  Soup. 

To  make  a  tureenful,  take  a  couple  of  middling-sized 
onions,  cut  them  in  half,  and  cross  your  knife  over  them  two 
or  three  times ;  put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stew-pan 

*  The  French  call  this  "soup  maigre;"  the  English  acceptation  of  which  is 
^'poor  and  watery,"  and  does  not  at  all  accord  with  the  French,  which  is,  soups,  &t\ 
made  without  meat :  thus,  turtle,  the  richest  dish  that  comes  to  an  English  table 
(if  ilressi-d  without  meat  gravy,),  is  a  maigre  dish. 


208  BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS. 

when  it  is  melted,  put  in  the  onions,  stir  them  about  till  they 
are  lightly  browned ;  cut  into  pieces  three  pounds  of  un- 
skinned  eels,  put  them  into  your  stew-pan,  and  shake  them 
over  the  fire  for  five  minutes ;  then  add  three  quarts  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  when  they  come  to  a  boil,  take  the  scum  off 
very  clean ;  then  put  in  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  the  green 
leaves  (not  dried)  of  winter  savoury,  the  same  of  lemon 
thyme,  and  twice  the  quantity  of  parsley,  two  drachms  of 
allspice,  the  same  of  black  pepper ;  cover  it  close,  and  let  it 
boil  gently  for  two  hours ;  then  strain  it  off,  and  skim  it 
very  clean.  To  thicken  it,  put  three  ounces  of  butter  into 
a  clean  stew-pan ;  when  it  is  melted,  stir  in  as  much  flour  as 
\vill  make  it  of  a  stiff  paste,  then  add  the  liquor  by  degrees  ; 
let  it  simmer  for  ten  minutes,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve ; 
then  put  your  soup  on  in  a  clean  stew-pan,  and  have  ready 
some  little  square  pieces  of  fish  fried  of  a  nice  light  brown, 
either  eels,  soles,  plaice,  or  skate  will  do ;  the  fried  fish 
should  be  added  about  ten  minutes  before  the  soup  is  served 
up.  Forcemeat  balls  (Nos.  375,  378,  &c.)  are  sometimes 
added. 

Obs.  Excellent  fish  soups  may  be  made  with  a  cod's 
skull,  or  skate,  or  flounders,  &c.  boiled  in  no  more  water 
than  will  just  cover  them,  and  the  liquor  thickened  with 
oatmeal,  &c. 

Cheap  Soups.— (No.  229.) 

Among  the  variety  of  schemes  that  have  been  suggested 
for  "  bettering  the  condition  of  the  poor,"  a  more  useful  or 
extensive  charity  cannot  be  devised,  than  that  of  instructing 
them  in  economical  cookery :  it  is  one  of  the  most  important 
objects  to  which  the  attention  of  any  real  well-wisher  to  the 
public  interest  can  possibly  be  directed. 

The  best  and  cheapest  method  of  making  a  nourishing 
soup,  is  least  known  to  those  who  have  most  need  of  it ;  it 
will  enable  those  who  have  small  incomes  and  large  families 
to  make  the  most  of  the  little  they  possess,  without  pinching 
their  children  of  that  wholesome  nourishment  which  is  ne- 
cessary for  the  purpose  of  rearing  them  up  to  maturity  in 
health  and  strength. 

The  labouring  classes  seldom  purchase  what  are  called 
the  coarser  pieces  of  meat,  because  they  do  not  know  how 
to  dress  them,  but  lay  out  their  money  in  pieces  for  roast- 
ing, &c.,  of  which  the  bones,  &c.  enhance  the  price  of  the 
actual  meat  to  nearly  a  shilling  per  pound,  and  the  dimi- 
nution of  weight  by  roasting  amounts  to  32  per  cent.  This. 


BHOTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND   SOUPS.  209 

for  the  sake  of  saving  time,  trouble,  and  fire,  is  generally 
sent  to  an  oven  to  be  baked ;  the  nourishing  parts  are  evapo- 
rated and  dried  up,  its  weight  is  diminished  nearly  one-third, 
and  all  that  a  poor  man  can  afford  to  purchase  with  his 
week's  earnings,  perhaps  does  not  half  satisfy  the  appetites 
of  himself  and  family  for  a  couple  of  days. 

If  a  hard-working  man  cannot  get  a  comfortable  meal  at 
home,  he  soon  finds  his  way  to  the  public-house,  the  poor 
wife  contents  herself  with  tea  and  bread  and  butter,  and  the 
children  are  half  starved. 

DR.  KITCHINER'S  receipt  to  make  a  cheap,  nutritive,  and 
palatable  soup,  fully  adequate  to  satisfy  appetite  and  support 
strength,  will  open  a  new  source  to  those  benevolent  house- 
keepers who  are  disposed  to  relieve  the  poor ;  will  show  the 
industrious  classes  how  much  they  have  it  in  their  power  to 
assist  themselves ;  and  rescue  them  from  being  dependent  on 
the  precarious  bounty  of  others,  by  teaching  them  how  they 
may  obtain  an  abundant,  salubrious,  and  agreeable  aliment 
for  themselves  and  families,  for  one  penny  per  quart.  See 
page  210. 

For  various  economical  soups,  see  Nos.  204,  239,  240, 
224,  221,  and  06s.  to  Nos.  244  and  252,  and  Nos.  493  and 
502. 

Obs.  Dripping  intended  for  soup  should  be  taken  out  of 
the  pan  almost  as  soon  as  it  has  dropped  from  the  meat ;  if 
it  is  not  quite  clean,  clarify  it.  See  receipt,  No.  83. 

Dripping  thus  prepared  is  a  very  different  thing  from  that 
which  has  remained  in  the  dripping-pan  all  the  time  the 
meat  has  been  roasting,  and  perhaps  live  coals  have  dropped 
into  it.* 

Distributing  soup  does  not  answer  half  so  well  as  teaching 
people  how  to  make  it,  and  improve  their  comfort  at  home : 
the  time  lost  in  waiting  at  the  soup-house  is  seldom  less  than 
three  hours ;  in  which  time,  by  any  industrious  occupation, 

*  We  copied  the  following  receipt  from  The  Morning  Post,  Jan.  1820. 
WINTER  Socp.— (No  227.) 


2lOlbs  of  beef,  fore-quarters. 
901bs.  of  legs  of  beef, 
3  bushels  of  best  split  pease, 
1  bushel  of  flour, 


12  bundles  of  leeks, 
6  bundles  of  celery. 
12lbs.  of  salt, 
lllbs.  of  black  pepper. 


These  good  ingredients  will  make  1000  quarts  of  nourishing  and  agreeable  eoup, 
at  an  expense  (establishment  avoided)  of  little  less  than  2Arf.  per  quart. 

Of  this,  2600  quarts  a  day  have  been  delivered  during  the  late  inclement  weather, 
and  the  cessation  of  ordinary  employment,  at  two  stations  in  the  parish  of  Ber- 
mondsey,  at  one  penny  per  quart,  by  which  600  families  have  been  daily  assisted, 
and  it  thankfully  received.  Such  a  nourishment  and  comfort  could  not  have  been 
provided  by  themselves  separately  for  fourpence  a  quart,  if  at  all,  and  reckoning 
little  for  their  fire,  nothing  for  their  time. 

S3 


210  BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS. 

however  poorly  paid,  they  could  earn  more  money  than  the 
quart  of  soup  is  worth. 

DR.  KITGHINER'S  Receipt  to  make  a  Gallon  of  Barley  Broth  for 
a  Groat.    See  also  No.  204. 

Put  four  ounces  of  Scotch  barley  (previously  washed  in 
cold  water),  and  four  ounces  of  sliced  onions,  into  five  quarts 
of  water ;  boil  gently  for  one  hour,  and  pour  it  into  a  pan  ; 
then  put  into  the  saucepan  from  one  to  two  ounces  of  clean 
beef  or  mutton  drippings,  or  melted  suet,  (to  clarify  these, 
see  No.  83)  or  two  or  three  ounces  of  fat  bacon  minced ; 
when  melted,  stir  into  it  four  ounces  of  oatmeal ;  rub  these 
together  till  you  make  a  paste  (if  this  be  properly  managed, 
the  whole  of  the  fat  will  combine  with  the  barley  broth,  and 
not  a  particle  appear  on  the  surface  to  offend  the  most 
delicate  stomach) ;  now  add  the  barley  broth,  at  first  a 
spoonful  at  a  time,  then  the  rest  by  degrees,  stirring  it  well 
together  till  it  boils.  To  season  it,  put  a  drachm  of  finely- 
pounded  celery,  or  cress-seed,  or  half  a  drachm  of  each,  and 
a  quarter  of  a  drachm  of  finely-pounded  Cayenne  (No.  404), 
or  a  drachm  and  a  half  of  ground  black  pepper,  or  allspice, 
into  a  tea-cup,  and  mix  it  up  with  a  little  of  the  soup,  and 
then  pour  it  into  the  rest ;  stir  it  thoroughly  together ;  let  it 
simmer  gently  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer,  season  it  with 
salt,  and  it  is  ready. 

The  flavour  may  be  varied  by  doubling  the  portion  of 
onions,  or  adding  a  clove  of  garlic  or  eschalot,  and  leaving 
out  the  celery-seed  (No.  572),  or  put  in  shredded  roots 
as  in  No.  224;  or,  instead  of  oatmeal,  thicken  it  with 
ground  rice,  or  pease,  &c.,  and  make  it  savoury  with  fried 
onions. 

This  preparation,  excellent  as  it  is,  would,  without  variety, 
soon  become  less  agreeable. 

Nothing  so  completely  disarms  poverty  of  its  sting,  as 
the  means  of  rendering  a  scanty  pittance  capable  of  yielding 
a  comfortable  variety. 

Change  of  flavour  is  absolutely  necessary,  not  merely  as 
a  matter  of  pleasure  and  comfort,  but  of  health ;  toujours 
perdrix  is  a  true  proverb. 

This  soup  will  be  much  improved,  if,  instead  of  water,  it 
be  made  with  the  liquor  meat  has  been  boiled  in ;  at  tripe, 
cow-heel,  and  cook-shops,  this  may  be  had  for  little  or 
nothing. 

This  soup  has  the  advantage  of  being  very  soon  and 
easily  made,  with  no  more  fuel  than  is  necessary  to  warm 


BROTHS,  GBAVIES,  AND  SOUPS.  211 

a  room ;  those  who  have  not  tasted  it,  cannot  imagine  what 
a  savoury  and  satisfying  meal  is  produced  by  the  combina- 
tion of  these  cheap  and  homely  ingredients. 

If  the  generally-received  opinion  be  true,  that  animal  and 
vegetable  foods  afford  nourishment  in  proportion  to  the 
quantity  of  oil,  jelly,  and  mucilage,  that  can  be  extracted 
from  them,  this  soup  has  strong  claims  to  the  attention  of 
rational  economists. 

Craw-fish  Soup.— (No.  235.) 

This  soup  is  sometimes  made  with,  beef,  or  veal  broth,  or 
with  fish,  in  the  following  manner : 

Take  flounders,  eels,  gudgeons,  &c.,  and  set  them  on  to 
boil  in  cold  water ;  when  it  is  pretty  nigh  boiling,  skim  it 
well ;  and  to  three  quarts  put  in  a  couple  of  onions,  and  as 
many  carrots  cut  to  pieces,  some  parsley,  a  dozen  berries  of 
black  and  Jamaica  pepper,  and  about  half  a  hundred  craw- 
fish ;  take  off  the  small  claws  and  shells  of  the  tails ;  pound 
them  fine,  and  boil  them  with  the  broth  about  an  hour; 
strain  off,  and  break  in  some  crusts  of  bread  to  thicken 
it,  and,  if  you  can  get  it,  the  spawn  of  a  lobster ;  pound  it, 
and  put  it  to  the  soup ;  let  it  simmer  very  gently  for  a  couple 
of  minutes ;  put  in  your  craw-fish  to  get  hot,  and  the  soup 
is  ready. 

Ofo. — One  of  my  predecessors  recommends  craw-fish 
pounded  alive,  to  sweeten  the  sharpness  of  the  blood.  Vide 
CLERMONT'S  Cookery,  p.  5,  London,  1776. 

"  Un  des  grands  hommes  de  bouche  de  France"  says,  "  Un 
bon  coulis  d'ecrevisses  est  le  paradis  sur  la  terre,  et  digne  de  la 
table  des  dieux ;  and  of  all  the  tribe  of  shell-fish,  which  our 
industry  and  our  sensuality  bring  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea. 
the  river,  or  the  pond,  the  craw-fish  is  incomparably  the  most 
useful  and  the  most  delicious." 

Lobster  Soup.— (No.  237.) 

You  must  have  three  fine  lively*  young  hen  lobsters,  and 
boil  them,  see  No.  176  ;  when  cold,  split  the  tails  ;  take  out 
the  fish,  crack  the  claws,  and  cut  the  meat  into  mouthfuls  : 
take  out  the  coral,  and  soft  part  of  the  body ;  bruise  part  of 
the  coral  in  a  mortar ;  pick  out  the  fish  from  the  chines ;  beat 
part  of  it  with  the  coral,  and  with  this  make  forcemeat  balls, 
finely-flavoured  with  mace  or  nutmeg,  a  little  grated  lemon* 

*  Read  No.  176. 


212  BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS. 

peel,  anchovy,  and  Cayenne ;  pound  these  with  the  yelk  of 
an  egg.  \ 

Have  three  quarts  of  veal  broth ;  bruise  the  small  legs 
and  the  chine,  and  put  them  into  it,  to  boil  for  twenty 
minutes,  then  strain  it;  and  then  to  thicken  it,  take  the 
live  spawn  and  bruise  it  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  butter 
and  flour ;  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  and  add  it  to  the  soup 
with  the  meat  of  the  lobsters,  and  the  remaining  coral ;  let 
it  simmer  very  gently  for  ten  minutes ;  do  not  let  it  boil, 
or  its  fine  red  colour  will  immediately  fade ;  turn  it  into  a 
tureen ;  add  the  juice  of  a  good  lemon,  and  a  little  essence 
of  anchovy. 

Soup  and  Bouilli. — (No.  238.     See  also  No.  5. 

The  best  parts  for  this  purpose  are  the  leg  or  shin,  or  a 
piece  of  the  middle  of  a  brisket  of  beef,  of  about  seven  or 
eight  pounds  weight ;  lay  it  on  a  fish-drainer,  or  when  you 
take  it  up  put  a  slice  under  it,  which  will  enable  you  to  place 
it  on  the  dish  entire ;  put  it  into  a  soup-pot  or  deep  stew-pan, 
with  cold  water  enough  to  cover  it,  and  a  quart  over ;  set 
it  on  a  quick  fire  to  get  the  scum  up,  which  remove  as  it 
rises ;  then  put  in  two  carrots,  two  turnips,  two  leeks,  or 
two  large  onions,  two  heads  of  celery,  two  or  three  cloves, 
and  a  fagot  of  parsley  and  sweet  herbs ;  set  the  pot  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  to  simmer  very  gently,  till  the  meat  is 
just  tender  enough  to  eat :  this  will  require  about  four  or 
five  hours. 

Put  a  large  carrot,  a  turnip,  a  large  onion,  and  a  head 
or  two  of  celery,  into  the  soup  whole ;  take  them  out  as 
soon  as  they  are  done  enough;  lay  them  on  a  dish  till 
they  are  cold;  then  cut  them  into  small  squares:  when 
the  beef  is  done,  take  it  out  carefully :  to  dish  it  up,  see 
No.  204,  or  No.  493 :  strain  the  soup  through  a  hair- 
sieve  into  a  clean  stew-pan ;  take  off  the  fat,  and  put  the 
vegetables  that  are  cut  into  the  soup,  the  flavour  of  which 
you  may  heighten  by  adding  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom 
catchup. 

If  a  thickened  soup  is  preferred,  take  four  large  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  clear  fat  from  the  top  of  the  pot,  and  four 
spoonfuls  of  flour ;  mix  it  smooth  together ;  then  by  degrees 
stir  it  well  into  the  soup,  which  simmer  for  ten  minutes 
longer  at  least ;  skim  it  well,  and  pass  it  through  a  tamis,  or 
fine  sieve,  and  add  the  vegetables  and  seasoning  the  same  as 
directed  in  the  clear  soup. 

Keep  the  beef  hot,  and  send  it  up  (as  a  remove  to  the 


BBOTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS. 

soup)  with  finely-chopped  parsley  sprinkled  on  the  top,  and 
a  sauce-boat  of  No.  328. 

Ox-head  Soup,— (No.  329.) 

Should  be  prepared  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  eaten,  as  you 
cannot  cut  the  meat  off  the  head  into  neat  mouthfuls  unless 
it  is  cold :  therefore,  the  day  before  you  want  this  soup,  put 
half  an  ox-cheek  into  a  tub  of  cold  water  to  soak  for  a  couple 
of  hours ;  then  break  the  bones  that  have  not  been  broken 
at  the  butcher's,  and  wash  it  very  well  in  warm  water ;  put 
it  into  a  pot,  and  cover  it  with  cold  water;  when  it  boils, 
skim  it  very  clean,  and  then  put  in  one  head  of  celery,  a 
couple  of  carrots,  a  turnip,  two  large  onions,  two  dozen 
berries  of  black  pepper,  same  of  allspice,  and  a  bundle  of 
sweet  herbs,  such  as  marjoram,  lemon-thyme,  savoury,  and 
a  handful  of  parsley ;  cover  the  soup-pot  close,  and  set  it  on 
a  slow  fire ;  take  off  the  scum,  which  will  rise  when  it  is 
coming  to  a  boil,  and  set  it  by  the  fireside  to  stew  very 
gently  for  about  three  hours ;  take  out  the  head,  lay  it  on  a 
dish,  pour  the  soup  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  stone-ware  pan, 
and  set  it  and  the  head  by  in  a  cool  place  till  the  next  day ; 
then  cut  the  meat  into  neat  mouthfuls,  skim  and  strain  off 
the  broth,  put  two  quarts  of  it  and  the  meat  into  a  clean 
stew-pan,  let  it  simmer  very  gently  for  half  an  hour  longer, 
and  it  is  ready.  If  you  wish  it  thickened  (which  we  do  not 
recommend,  for  the  reasons  given  in  the  7th  chapter  of  the 
Rudiments  of  Cookery),  put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a 
stew-pan ;  when  it  is  melted,  throw  in  as  much  flour  as  will 
dry  it  up;  when  they  are  all  well  mixed  together,  and 
browned  by  degrees,  pour  to  this  your  soup,  and  stir  it  well 
together ;  let  it  simmer  for  half  an  hour  longer ;  strain  it 
through  a  hair-sieve  into  a  clean  stew-pan,  and  put  to  it 
the  meat  of  the  head ;  let  it  stew  half  an  hour  longer,  and 
season  it  with  Cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  a  glass  of  good 
wine,  or  a  table-spoonful  of  brandy.  See  Ox-cheek  stewed, 
No.  507. 

Obs. — Those  who  wish  this  soup  still  more  savoury,  &c. 
for  the  means  of  making  it  so,  we  refer  to  No.  247. 

N.B.  This  is  an  excellent  and  economical  soup.  See  also 
Nos.  204  and  229. 

If  you  serve  it  as  soup  for  a  dozen  people,  thicken  one 
tureen,  and  send  up  the  meat  in  that ;  and  send  up  the  other 
as  a  clear  gravy  soup,  with  some  of  the  carrots  and  turnips 
shredded,  or  cut  into  shapes. 


214  BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS. 

Ox-tail  Soup.— (No.  240.) 

Three  tails,  costing  about  Id.  each,  will  make  a  tureen 
of  soup  (desire  the  butcher  to  divide  them  at  the  joints) ; 
lay  them  to  soak  in  warm  water,  while  you  get  ready  the 
vegetables. 

Put  into  a  gallon  stew-pan  eight  cloves,  two  or  three 
onions,  half  a  drachm  of  allspice,  and  the  same  of  black 
pepper,  and  the  tails  ;*  cover  them  with  cold  water ;  skim 
it  carefully,  when  and  as  long  as  you  see  any  scum  rise ; 
then  cover  the  pot  as  close  as  possible,  and  set  it  on  the  side 
of  the  fire  to  keep  gently  simmering  till  the  meat  becomes 
tender  and  will  leave  the  bones  easily,  because  it  is  to  be 
eaten  with  a  spoon,  without  the  assistance  of  a  knife  or  fork ; 
see  N.B.  to  No.  244 ;  this  will  require  about  two  hours : 
mind  it  is  not  done  too  much :  when  perfectly  tender,  take 
out  the  meat  and  cut  it  off  the  bones,  in  neat  mouthfuls ; 
skim  the  broth,  and  strain  it  through  a  sieve ;  if  you  prefer 
a  thickened  soup,  put  flour  and  butter,  as  directed  in  the 
preceding  receipt ;  or  put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  fat  you 
have  taken  off  the  broth  into  a  clean  stew-pan,  with  as  much 
flour  as  will  make  it  into  a  paste  ;  set  this  over  the  fire,  and 
stir  them  well  together  ;  then  pour  in  the  broth  by  degrees, 
stirring  it,  and  mixing  it  with  the  thickening ;  let  it  simmer 
for  another  half  hour,  and  when  you  have  well  skimmed  it, 
and  it  is  quite  smooth,  then  strain  it  through  a  tamis  into  a 
clean  stew-pan,  put  in  the  meat,  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
mushroom  catchup  (No.  439),  a  glass  of  wine,  and  season  it 
with  salt. 

For  increasing  the  piquance  of  this  soup,  read  No.  247. 

Obs.— See  N.B.  to  No.  244 ;  if  the  meat  is  cut  off  the 
bones,  you  must  have  three  tails  for  a  tureen,  see  N.B.  to 
No.  244 :  some  put  an  ox-cheek  or  tails  in  an  earthen  pan, 
with  all  the  ingredients  as  above,  and  send  them  to  a  slow 
oven  for  five  or  six  hours. 

To  stew  ox-tails,  see  No.  531. 

Ox-heel  Soup,— -(No.  240*.) 

Must  be  made  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  eaten.  Procure  an 
ox-heel  undressed,  or  only  scalded  (not  one  that  has  been- 
already  boiled,  as  they  are  at  the  tripe-shops,  till  almost  all 
the  gelatinous  parts  are  extracted),  and  two  that  have  been 
boiled  as  they  usually  are  at  the  tripe-shops. 

Cut  the  meat  off  the  boiled  heels  into  neat  mouthfuls,  and 

*  Some  lovers  of  haut  gout  fry  the  tails  before  they  put  them  into  the  soup-pot. 


BROTHS,    GRAVIES,    AND   SOUPS.  21o 

set  it  by  on  a  plate ;  put  the  trimmings  and  bones  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  three  quarts  of  water,  and  the  unboiled  heel  cut 
into  quarters  ;  furnish  a  stew-pan  with  two  onions,  and  two 
turnips  pared  and  sliced ;  pare  off  the  red  part  of  a  couple 
of  large  carrots,  add  a  couple  of  eschalots  cut  in  half,  a 
bunch  of  savoury  or  lemon-thyme,  and  double  the  quantity 
of  parsley ;  set  this  over,  or  by  the  side  of  a  slow,  steady 
fire,  and  keep  it  closely  covered  and  simmering  very  gently 
(or  the  soup  liquor  will  evaporate)  for  at  least  seven  hours : 
during  which,  take  care  to  remove  the  fat  and  scum  that 
will  rise  to  the  surface  of  the  soup,  which  must  be  kept  as 
clean  as  possible. 

Now  strain  the  liquor  through  a  sieve,  and  put  two  ounces 
of  butter  into  a  clean  stew-pan;  when  it  is  melted,  stir  into 
it  as  much  flour  as  will  make  it  a  stiff  paste ;  add  to  it  by 
degrees  the  soup  liquor ;  give  it  a  boil  up ;  strain  it  through 
a  sieve,  and  put  in  the  peel  of  a  lemon  pared  as  thin  as  pos- 
sible, and  a  couple  of  bay-leaves,  and  the  meat  of  the  boiled 
heels ;  let  it  go  on  simmering  for  half  an  hour  longer,  i.  e.  till 
the  meat  is  tender.  Put  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  glass  of 
wine,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup,  and  the 
soup  is  ready  for  the  tureen. 

06s.  Those  who  are  disposed  to  make  this  a  more  sub- 
stantial dish,  may  introduce  a  couple  of  sets  of  goose  or 
duck  giblets,  or  ox-tails,  or  a  pound  of  veal  cutlets,  cut  into 
mouthfuls. 

Hare,  Rabbit,  or  Partridge  Soup. — (No.  241.) 

An  old  hare,  or  birds,  when  so  tough  as  to  defy  the  teeth 
in  any  other  form,  will  make  very  good  soup. 

Cut  off  the  legs  and  shoulders ;  divide  the  body  crossways, 
and  stew  them  very  gently  in  three  quarts  of  water,  with  one 
carrot,  about  one  ounce  of  onion,  with  four  cloves,  two 
blades  of  pounded  mace,  twenty-four  black  peppers,  and  a 
bundle  of  sweet  herbs,  till  the  hare  is  tender  (most  cooks  add 
to  the  above  a  couple  of  slices  of  ham  or  bacon,  and  a  bay 
leaf,  &c.,  but  my  palate  and  purse  both  plead  against  such 
extravagance;  the  hare  makes  sufficiently  savoury  soup 
without  them) :  the  time  this  will  take  depends  very  much 
upon  its  age,  and  how  long  it  has  been  kept  before  it  is 
dressed :  as  a  general  rule,  about  three  hours :  in  the  mean 
time,  make  a  dozen  and  a  half  of  nice  forcemeat  balls  (as  big 
;\s  nutmegs)  of  No.  379 ;  when  the  hare  is  quite  tender,  take 
the  meat  off  the  back,  and  the  upper  joint  of  the  legs ;  cut  it 
into  neat  mouthfuls,  and  lay  it  aside ;  cut  the  rest  of  the  meat 


216  BROTHS,    GRAVIES,   AND   SOUPS. 

off  the  legs,  shoulders,  &c.,  mince  it  and  pound  it  in  a  mor- 
tar, with  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour  moistened  with  a  little  soup ;  rub  this  through  a  hair- 
sieve,  and  put  it  into  the  soup  to  thicken  it ;  let  it  simmer 
slowly  half  an  hour  longer,  skimming  it  well ;  put  it  through 
the  tamis  into  the  pan  again ;  and  put  in  the  meat  with  a  glass 
of  claret  or  port  wine,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  currant  jelly 
to  each  quart  of  soup ;  season  it  with  salt,  put  in  the  force- 
meat balls,  and  when  all  is  well  warmed,  the  soup  is  ready. 

Obs.  Cold  roast  hare  will  make  excellent  soup.  Chop  it 
in  pieces,  and  stew  it  in  water  (according  to  the  quantity  of 
hare)  for  about  an  hour,  and  manage  it  as  in  the  above 
receipt :  the  stuffing  of  the  hare  will  be  a  substitute  for  sweet 
herbs  and  seasoning. 

N.B.  This  soup  maybe  made  with  mock  hare,  see  No. 66. 

Game  Soup.— (No.  242.) 

In  the  game  season,  it  is  easy  for  a  cook  to  give  her  master 
a  very  good  soup  at  a  very  little  expense,  by  taking  all  the 
meat  off  the  breasts  of  any  cold  birds  which  have  been  left 
the  preceding  day,  and  pounding  it  in  a  mortar,  and  beating 
to  pieces  the  legs  and  bones,  and  boiling  them  in  some  broth 
for  an  hour.  Boil  six  turnips ;  mash  them,  and  strain  them 
through  a  tamis-cloth  with  the  meat  that  has  been  pounded 
in  a  mortar ;  strain  your  broth,  and  put  a  little  of  it  at  a  time 
into  the  tamis  to  help  you  to  strain  all  of  it  through.  Put 
your  soup-kettle  near  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil :  when 
ready  to  dish  your  dinner,  have  six  yelks  of  eggs  mixed 
with  half  a  pint  of  cream ;  strain  through  a  sieve ;  put  your 
soup  on  the  fire,  and  as  it  is  coming  to  boil,  put  in  the  eggs, 
and  stir  well  with  a  wooden  spoon :  do  not  let  it  boil,  or  it 
will  curdle. 

Goose  or  Duck  Giblet  Soup.*— (No.  244.) 

Scald  and  pick  very  clean  a  couple  sets  of  goose,  or  four 
of  duck  giblets  (the  fresher  the  better) ;  wash  them  well  in 
warm  water,  in  two  or  three  waters ;  cut  off  the  noses  and 
split  the  heads  ;  divide  the  gizzards  and  necks  into  mouth- 
fuls.  If  the  gizzards  are  not  cut  into  pieces  before  they  are 
done  enough,  the  rest  of  the  meat,  &c.  will  be  done  too  much; 
and  knives  and  forks  have  no  business  in  a  soup-plate. 
Crack  the  bones  of  the  legs,  and  put  them  into  a  stew-pan ; 
cover  them  with  cold  water:  when  they  boil,  take  off  the 

*  Fowls'  or  turkeys'  heads  make  good  and  cheap  soup  to  the  satae  manner. 


BROTHS,    GBAMES,    A3JD   SOUI'S.  217 

scum  as  it  rises ;  then  put  in  a  bundle  of  herbs,  such  as 
lemon-thyme,  winter  savoury,  or  marjoram,  about  three  sprigs 
of  each,  and  double  the  quantity  of  parsley,  an  onion,  twenty 
berries  of  allspice,  the  same  of  black  pepper ;  tie  them  all  up 
in  a  muslin  bag,  and  set  them  to  stew  very  gently  till  the 
gizzards  are  tender :  this  will  take  from  an  hour  and  a  half 
to  two  hours,  according  to  the  size  and  age  of  the  giblets : 
take  them  up  with  a  skimmer,  or  a  spoon  full  of  holes,  put 
them  into  the  tureen,  and  cover  down  close  to  keep  warm 
till  the  soup  is  ready. 

To  thicken  the  soup.  Melt  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter 
in  a  clean  stew-pan;  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  will  make  it 
into  a  paste ;  then  pour  to  it  by  degrees  aladleful  of  the  giblet 
liquor;  add  the  remainder  by  degrees;  let  it  boil  about  half 
an  hour,  stirring  it  all  the  while  for  fear  it  should  burn ;  skim 
it,  and  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  basin ;  wash  out 
the  stew-pan;  then  return  the  soup  into  it,  and  season  it  with 
ti  glass  of  wine,  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup,  and 
a  little  salt ;  let  it  have  one  boil  up ;  and  then  put  the  giblets 
in  to  get  hot,  and  the  soup  is  ready. 

Obs.  Thus  managed,  one  set  of  goose,  or  two  of  duck  gib' 
Jets  (which  latter  may  sometimes  be  had  for  3d.),  will  make 
a  quart  of  healthful,  nourishing  soup :  if  you  think  the  giblets 
alone  will  not  make  the  gravy  savoury  enough,  add  a  pound 
of  beef  or  mutton,  or  bone  of  a  knuckle  of  veal,  and  heighten 
its  " piquance"  by  adding  a  few  leaves  of  sweet  basil,  the 
juice  of  half  a  Seville  orange  or  lemon,  and  half  a  glass  of 
wine,  and  a  little  of  No.  343*  to  each  quart  of  soup. 

Those  who  are  fond  of  forcemeat  may  slip  the  skin  off  the 
neck,  and  fill  it  with  No.  378 ;  tie  up  the  other  end  tight ;  put 
it  into  the  soup  about  half  an  hour  before  you  take  it  up,  or 
make  some  nice  savoury  balls  of  the  duck  stuffing,  No.  61. 

Obs.  Bespeak  the  giblets  a  couple  of  days  before  you  desire 
to  have  them :  this  is  a  favourite  soup  when  the  giblets  are 
done  till  nicely  tender,  but  yet  not  overboiled.  Giblets  may 
be  had  from  July  to  January ;  the  fresher  they  are  the  better. 

N.B.  This  is  rather  a  family-dish  than  a  company  one ; 
the  bones  cannot  be  well  picked  without  the  help  of  alive 
pincers. 

Since  Tom  Cory  at  introduced  forks,  A.  D.  1642,  it  has  not 
been  the  fashion  to  put  "  pickers  and  stealers"  into  SOUD. 


218  BROTHS*    GRAVIES,    AND   SOUPS. 


Mock  Mock  Turtle,— (No.  245.) 

As  made  by  Elizabeth  Lister  (late  cook  to  Dr.  Kitchiner\  bread 
and  biscuit  baker,  No.  6  Salcombe  Place,  York  Terrace, 
Regent's  Park.  Goes  out  to  dress  dinners  on  reasonable 
terms. 

Line  the  bottom  of  a  stew-pan  that  will  hold  five  pints,  with 
an  ounce  of  nice  lean  bacon  or  ham,  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
lean  gravy  beef,  a  cow-heel,  the  inner  rind  of  a  carrot,  a 
sprig  of  lemon-thyme,  winter  savoury,  three  times  the  quan- 
tity of  parsley,  a  few  green  leaves  of  sweet  basil,*  and  two 
eschalots ;  put  in  a  large  onion*  with  four  cloves  stuck  in  it, 
eighteen  corns  of  allspice,  the  same  of  black  pepper ;  pour  on 
these  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cold  water,  cover  the  stew-pan, 
and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire,  to  boil  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour ;  then,  for  fear  the  meat  should  catch,  take  off  the  cover, 
•and  watch  it ;  and  when  it  has  got  a  good  brown  colour,  fill 
up  the  stew-pan  with  boiling  water,  and  let  it  simmer  very 
gently  for  two  hours :  if  you  wish  to  have  the  full  benefit  of 
the  meat,  only  stew  it  till  it  is  just  tender,  cut  it  into  mouth- 
fuls,  and  put  it  into  the  soup.  To  thicken  it,  pour  two  or  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  ladleful  of  the  gravy,  and  stir  it  quick 
till  it  is  well  mixed ;  pour  it  back  into  the  stew-pan  where  the 
gravy  is,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour  longer ; 
skim  it,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  tamis  into  the  stew-pan : 
cut  the  cow-heel  into  pieces  about  an  inch  square,  squeeze 
through  a  sieve  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  table-spoonful  of 
mushroom  catchup,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  tea-spoonful 
of  ground  black  pepper,  as  much  grated  nutmeg  as  will  lie  on 
a  sixpence,  and  a  glass  of  Madeira  or  sherry  wine ;  let  it  all 
simmer  together  for  five  minutes  longer. 

Forcemeat  or  egg  balls  may  be  added  if  you  please ;  you 
will  find  a  receipt  for  these,  No.  380,  &c. 

***  A  pound  of  veal  cutlets,  or  the  belly  part  of  pickled 
pork*  or  nice  double  tripe  cut  into  pieces  about  an  inch 
square,  and  half  an  inch  thick,  and  rounded  and  trimmed 
neatly  from  all  skin,  gristle*  &c.  and  stewed  till  they  are  ten- 
der, will  be  a  great  addition. 

*  To  this  fine  aromatic  herb,  turtle  soup  is  much  indebted  for  its  spicy  flavour, 
and  the  high  esteem  it  is  held  in  by  the  good  citizens  of  London,  who,  I  believe,  are 
pretty  generally  of  the  same  opinion  as  Dr.  Salmon.  See  his  "  Household  Dictionary 
and  Essay  on  Cookery,"  8vo.  London,  1710,  page  34,  article  '  Basil.'  "  This  com- 
forts the  heart,  expels  melancholy,  and  cleanses  the  lungs."  See  No.  397.  "This 
plant  gave  the  peculiar  flavour  to  the  original  Fetter-lane  sausages." — GRAB'S 
Supplement  to  the  Pharmacopeia,  8vo.  1821  p.  52. 


BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND  SOUPS.  219 

Mock  Turtle,— (No.  247.) 

Is  the  "  bonne  bouche^  which  "  the  officers  of  the  mouth"  of 
old  England*  prepare,  when  they  choose  to  rival  "  Us  grands 
cuisiniers  de  France"  in  a  "  ragout  sans  pareil." 

The  following  receipt  is  an  attempt  (and  the  committee  of 
taste  pronounced  it  a  successful  one),  to  imitate  the  excellent 
and  generally  approved  mock  turtle  made  by  Messrs.  Birch, 
Cornhill. 

Endeavour  to  have  the  head  and  the  broth  ready  for  the 
soup,f  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  eaten. 

It  will  take  eight  hours  to  prepare  it  properly. 

hours. 

Cleaning  and  soaking  the  head 1 

To  parboil  it  to  cut  up \1 

Cooling,  nearly 1 

Making  the  broth  and  finishing  the  soup 5 

8 

Get  a  calf's  head  with  the  skin  on  (the  fresher  the  better) ; 
take  out  the  brains,  wash  the  head  several  times  in  cold 
water,  let  it  soak  for  about  an  hour  in  spring-water,  then  lay 
it  in  a  stew-pan,  and  cover  it  with  cold  water,  and  half  a 
gallon  over ;  as  it  becomes  warm,  a  great  deal  of  scum  will 
rise,  which  must  be  immediately  removed ;  let  it  boil  gently 
for  one  hour,  take  it  up,  and  when  almost  cold,  cut  the  head 
into  pieces  about  an  inch  and  a  half  by  an  inch  and  a  quarter, 
and  the  tongue  into  mouthfuls,  or  rather  make  a  side-dish  of 
the  tongue  and  brains,  as  in  No.  10. 

When  the  head  is  taken  out,  put  in  the  stock  meat,t  about 
five  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  and  as  much  beef;  add  to  the 
stock  all  the  trimmings  and  bones  of  the  head,  skim  it  well, 

"  Tout  le  monde  sail  que  tons  les  ragotits  qui  portent  le  nora  de  TORTUE,  sont 
d'origine  Anglaise." — Manuel  des  rfmphitryons,  8vo.  1808,  p.  229. 

t  Those  who  do  not  like  the  trouble,  &c.  of  making  mock  turtle,  may  be  supplied 
with  it  ready  made,  in  high  perfection,  at  BIRCH'S,  in  Cornhill.  It  is  not  poisoned 
with  Cayenne  pepper,  which  the  turtle  and  mock  turtle  soup  of  most  pastry  cooks 
and  tavern  cooks  is,  and  to  that  degree,  that  it  acts  like  a  blister  on  the  coats  of  the 
stomach.  This  prevents  our  mentioning  any  other  maker  of  this  soup,  which  is 
often  made  with  cow-heel,  or  the  mere  scalp  of  the  calf's  head,  instead  of  the  head 
itself. 

The  following  are  Mr.  Birch's  directions  for  warming  this  soup: — Empty  the 
turtle  into  a  broad  earthen  vessel,  to  keep  cool :  when  wanted  for  table,  to  two 
quarts  of  soup  add  one  gill  of  boiling  water  or  veal  broth,  put  it  over  a  good,  clear 
lire,  keeping  it  gently  stirred  (that  it  may  not  burn) ;  when  it  has  boiled  about  three 
minutes,  skim  it,  and  put  it  in  the  tureen. 

N.B.  The  broth  or  water,  and  the  wine,  to  be  put  into  the  stew-pan  before  you 
pat  in  the  turtle. 

$  The  reader  may  have  remarked,  that  mock  turtle  and  potted  beef  always  come 
in  season  together. 

See  Obi.  to  No.  503*.  This  gravy  meat  will  make  an  excellent  savoury  potted 
relisn,  as  it  will  be  impregnated  with  the  flavour  of  the  herbs  and  snice  that  are 
boiled  with  it. 


220  BEOTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND   SOTJPS. 

and  then  cover  it  close,  and  let  it  boil  five  hours  (reserve  a 
couple  of  quarts  of  this  to  make  gravy  sauces,  &c.  see  No. 
307) ;  then  strain  it  off,  and  let  it  stand  till  the  next  morning ; 
then  take  off  the  fat,  set  a  large  stew-pan  on  the  fire  with  half 
a  pound  of  good  fresh  butter,  twelve  ounces  of  onions  sliced, 
and  four  ounces  of  green  sage ;  chop  it  a  little ;  let  these  fry 
one  hour ;  then  rub  in  half  a  pound  of  flour,  and  by  degrees 
add  your  broth  till  it  is  the  thickness  of  cream ;  season  it 
with  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  ground  allspice  and  half  an 
ounce  of  black  pepper  ground  very  fine,  salt  to  your  taste, 
and  the  rind  of  one  lemon  peeled  very  thin ;  let  it  simmer 
very  gently  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  then  strain  it  through  a 
hair-sieve ;  do  not  rub  your  soup  to  get  it  through  the  sieve, 
or  it  will  make  it  grouty ;  if  it  does  not  run  through  easily, 
knock  your  wooden-spoon  against  the  side  of  your  sieve ; 
put  it  in  a  clean  stew-pan  with  the  head,  and  season  it  by 
adding  to  each  gallon  of  soup  half  a  pint  of  wine ;  this 
should  be  Madeira,  or,  if  you  wish  to  darken  the  colour  of 
your  soup,  claret,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice, 
see  No.  407* ;  let  it  simmer  gently  till  the  meat  is  tender ; 
this  may  take  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour :  take  care  it  is 
not  over-done ;  stir  it  frequently  to  prevent  the  meat  stick- 
ing to  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan,  and  when  the  meat  is 
quite  tender  the  soup  is  ready. 

A  head  weighing  twenty  pounds,  and  ten  pounds  of  stock 
meat,  will  make  ten  quarts  of  excellent  soup,  besides  the 
two  quarts  of  stock  you  have  put  by  for  made  dishes,  &c. 

Obs.  If  there  is  more  meat  on  the  head  than  you  wish  to 
put  in  the  soup,  prepare  it  for  a  pie,  and,  with  the  addition 
of  a  calfs  foot  boiled  tender,  it  will  make  an  excellent 
ragout  pie ;  season  it  with  zest,  and  a  little  minced  onion, 
put  in  half  a  tea-cupful  of  stock,  cover  it  with  puff  paste, 
and  bake  it  one  hour :  when  the  soup  comes  from  table,  if 
there  is  a  deal  of  meat  and  no  soup,  put  it  into  a  pie-dish, 
season  it  a  little,  and  add  some  little  stock  to  it ;  then  cover 
it  with  paste,  bake  it  one  hour,  and  you  have  a  good  mock 
turtle  pie. 

This  soup  was  eaten  by  the  committee  of  taste  with 
unanimous  applause,  and  they  pronounced  it  a  very  satis- 
factory substitute*  for  "the  far-fetch'd  and  dear-bought*' 

*  "  Many  gourmets  and  gastrologers  prefer  the  copy  to  the  original :  we  confess 
that  when  done  as  it  oueht  to  be,  the  mock  turtle  is  exceedingly  interesting." — Ta- 
&Ua  Cibaria,  1820,  p.  30. 

"  Turtles  often  become  emaciated  and  sickly  before  they  reach  this  country,  in 
which  case  the  soup  would  be  incomparably  improved  by"  leaving  out  the  turtle/ 
and  substituting  a  good  calf's  heatl." — Supplement  to  Eneyc.  Brit..  Edinburgh)  vol. 
iv.  p.  331. 


BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND    SOUPS.  221 

turtle ;  which  is  entirely  indebted  for  its  title  of  "  sovereign 
of  savouriness,"  to  the  rich  soup  with  which  it  is  sur- 
rounded. 

Without  its  paraphernalia  of  subtle  double  relishes,  a 
"starved  turtle,"  has  not  more  intrinsic  sapidity  than  a 
**  fatted  calf."  Friendly  reader,  it  is  really  neither  half  so 
wholesome,  nor  half  so  toothsome.  See  Essence  of  Turtle, 
No.  343*,  and  Obs.  to  No.  493.  To  warm  this  soup,  see  No. 
485. 

To  season  it,  to  each  gallon  of  soup  put  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  lemon-juice,  see  No.  407*,  same  of  mushroom 
catchup  (No.  439),  and  one  of  essence  of  anchovy  (No.  433), 
half  a  pint  of  wine  (this  should  be  Madeira,  or,  if  you  wish 
to  darken  the  colour  of  your  soup,  claret),  a  tea-spoonful  of 
curry  powder  (No.  455),  or  a  quarter  of  a  drachm  of  Cay- 
enne, and  the  peel  of  a  lemon  pared  as  thin  as  possible ;  let 
it  simmer  five  minutes  more,  take  out  the  lemon-peel,  and  the 
soup  is  ready  for  the  tureen. 

While  the  soup  is  doing,  prepare  for  each  tureen  a  dozen 
and  a  half  of  mock  turtle  forcemeat  balls  (to  make  these, 
see  No.  375  or  No.  376,  No.  390  to  No.  396) ;  we  prefer  the 
stuffing  ordered  in  No.  61,  and  a  dozen  egg  balls ;  and  put 
them  into  the  tureen.  Brain  balls,  or  cakes,  are  a  very 
elegant  addition,  and  are  made  by  boiling  the  brains  for  ten 
minutes,  then  putting  them  in  cold  water,  and  cutting  them 
into  pieces  about  as  big  as  a  large  nutmeg ;  take  savoury, 
or  lemon-thyme  dried  and  finely-powdered,  nutmeg  grated, 
and  pepper  and  salt,  and  pound  them  all  together ;  beat  up 
an  egg,  dip  the  brains  in  it,  and  then  roll  them  in  this  mix- 
ture, and  make  as  much  of  it  as  possible  stick  to  them;  dip 
them  in  the  egg  again,  and  then  in  finely-grated  and  sifted 
bread-crumbs ;  fry  them  in  hot  fat,  and  send  them  up  as  a 
side-dish. 

A  veal  sweetbread,  prepared  as  in  No.  89,  not  too  much 
done  or  it  will  break,  cut  into  pieces  the  same  size  as  you 
cut  the  calf's  head,  and  put  in  the  soup,  just  to  get  warm 
before  it  goes  to  table,  is  a  superb  "bonne  bouche;"  and 
pickled  tongue,  stewed  till  very  tender,  and  cut  into  mouth- 
fuls,  is  a  favourite  addition.  We  order  the  meat  to  be  cut 
into  mouthfuls,  that  it  may  be  eaten  with  a  spoon :  the  knife 
and  fork  have  no  business  in  a  soup-plate. 

***  Some  of  our  culinary  contemporaries  order  the  haut 
gout  of  this  (as  above  directed,  sufficiently  relishing)  soup 

[Very  fine  fat  turtles  are  brought  to  New- York  from  the  West  Indies ;  and-,  during 
the  warm  weather,  kept  in  crawls  till  wanted :  of  these  they  make  soup,  which 
surpasses  any  mock  turtle  ever  made.    A.] 
T2 


222  BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  AND   SOUPS. 

to  be  combustibled  and  bedevilled  with  a  copious  addition 
of  anchovies,  mushrooms,  truffles,  morelles,  curry-powder, 
artichoke  bottoms,  salmon's  head  and  liver,  or  the  soft  part 
of  oysters  or  lobsters,  soles  cut  in  mouthfuls,  a  bottle  of 
Madeira,  a  pint  of  brandy,  &c. ;  and  to  complete  their  sur- 
feiting and  burn-gullet  olio,  they  put  in  such  a  tremendous 
quantity  of  Cayenne  pepper,  that  only  a  fire-proof  palate, 
lined  with  asbestos,  or  indurated  by  Indian  diet,  can  endure 
it.  See  note  under  No.  493. 

N.B.  In  helping  this  soup,  the  distributer  of  it  should 
serve  out  the  meat,  forcemeat,  and  gravy,  in  equal  parts ; 
however  trifling  or  needless  this  remark  may  appear,  the 
writer  has  often  suffered  from  the  want  of  such  a  hint  being 
given  to  the  soup-server,  who  has  sometimes  sent  a  plate 
of  mere  gravy  without  meat,  at  others,  of  meat  without 
gravy,  and  sometimes  scarcely  any  thing  but  forcemeat 
balls. 

Obs.  This  is  a  delicious  soup,  within  the  reach  of  those 
who  "  eat  to  live ;"  but  if  it  had  been  composed  expressly 
for  those  who  only  "  live  to  eat,"  I  do  not  know  how  it  could 
have  been  made  more  agreeable :  as  it  is,  the  lover  of  good 
eating  will  "  wish  his  throat  a  mile  long,  and  every  inch  of 
it  palate." 

N.B.  Cucumber  in  a  side-plate  is  a  laudable  vegetable 
accompaniment. 

English  Turtle.— (No.  248.) 
See  No.  502.    «  A-la-mode  beef." 

Curry,  or  Mullaga-tawny*  Soup. — (No.  249.) 

Cut  four  pounds  of  a  breast  of  veal  into  pieces,  about  two 
inches  by  one ;  put  the  trimmings  into  a  stew-pan  with  two 
quarts  of  water,  with  twelve  corns  of  black  pepper,  and  the 
same  of  allspice ;  when  it  boils,  skim  it  clean,  and  let  it  boil 
an  hour  and  a  half,  then  strain  it  off;  while  it  is  boiling,  fry 
of  a  nice  brown  in  butter  the  bits  of  veal  and  four  onions ; 
when  they  are  done,  put  the  broth  to  them ;  put  it  on  the  fire ; 
when  it  boils,  skim  it  clean ;  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour ;  then 

*  Mullaga-tawny  signifies  pepper  water.  The  progress  of  inexperienced  peri- 
uatetic  palaticians  has  lately  been  arrested  by  these  outlandish  words  being  pasted 
on  the  windows  of  our  coffee-houses.  It  has,  we  believe,  answered  the  "  restaura* 
tcur's"  purpose,  and  often  excited  JOHN  BULL  to  walk  in  and  taste :  the  more 
familiar  name  of  curry  soup  would,  perhaps,  riot  have  had  sufficient  of  the  charms 
Of  novelty  to  seduce  him  from  his  much-loved  mock  turtle. 

It  is  a  fashionable  soup,  and  a  great  favourite  with  our  East  Indian  friends,  and 
we  give  the  best  receipt  we  could  procure  for  it. 


BROTHS,  GHAVIES,  AND    SOUPS.  223 

mix  two  spoonfuls  of  curry,  and  the  same  of  flour,  with  a 
little  cold  water  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ;  add  these  to  the 
soup,  and  simmer  it  gently  till  the  veal  is  quite  tender,  and 
it  is  ready ;  or  bone  a  couple  of  fowls  or  rabbits,  and  stew 
them  in  the  manner  directed  above  for  the  veal,  and  you  may 
put  in  a  bruised  eschalot,  and  some  mace  and  ginger,  instead 
of  black  pepper  and  allspice. 
06s.  Read  No.  497. 

Turtle*  Soup.— (No.  250.) 

As  it  is  our  wish  that  this  work  should  be  given  to  the 
public  at  the  lowest  possible  price,  the  receipt  for  dressing 
a  turtle  is  taken  out,  as  a  professed  cook  is  always  hired  for 
the  purpose  of  dressing  it.  The  space  this  long  receipt  oc- 
cupied is  now  filled  with  directions  for  making  useful  pickles. 
See  No.  462. 

Portable^  Soup,  or  Glaze.— (No.  252.) 

Desire  the  butcher  to  break  the  bones  of  a  leg  or  a  shin 
of  beef,  of  ten  pounds  weight  (the  fresher  killed  the  better) ; 
put  it  into  a  soup-pot  (a  digester];  is  the  best  utensil  for  this 
purpose)  that  will  well  hold  it ;  just  cover  it  with  cold  water, 
and  set  it  on  the  fire  to  heat  gradually  till  it  nearly  boils 
(this  should  be  at  least  an  hour) ;  skim  it  attentively  while 

*  "  The  usual  allowance  at  a  turtle  feast  is  six  pounds  live  weight  per  head  :  at 
the  Spanish  dinner,  at  the  City  of  London  Tavern,  in  August,  1808,  400  guests 
attended,  and  2500  pounds  of  turtle  were  consumed." — See  BELL'S  Weekly  Mes- 
senger for  August  7th,  1808. 

Epicure  QUIN  used  to  say,  it  was  "  not  safe  to  sit  down  to  a  turtle  feast  at  one  of 
the  City  Halls,  without  a  basket-hilted  knife  and  fork." 

We  recommend  our  friends,  before  encountering  such  a  temptation,  to  read  our 
peptic  precepts.  Nothing  is  more  difficult  of  digestion,  or  ofteuer  requires  the  aid 
of  peristaltic  persuaders,  than  the  glutinous  callipash  which  is  considered  the  "  bonne 
louche"  of  this  soup.  Turtle  is  generally  spoiled  by  being  ovei-dressed. 

[In  Philadelphia,  an  excellent  turtle  soup  is  made  of  a  small  native  tortoise,  called 
a  terrapin,  and  the  article  terrapin  soup.  A.] 

t  "  A  pound  of  meat  contains  about  an  ounce  of  gelatinous  matter ;  it  thence 
follows,  that  1500  pounds  of  the  same  meat,  which  is  the  whole  weight  of  a  bullock, 
would  give  only  94  pounds,  which  might  be  easily  contained  in  an  earthen  jar." — 
Dr.  HUTTON'S  Rational  Recreations,  vol.  iv.  p.  194. 

In  what  degree  portable  or  other  soup  be  nutritious,  we  know  not,  but  refer  the 
reader  to  our  note  under  No.  185*. 

$  This  machine  was  invented  by  Dr.  Denys  Papin,  F.R.S.,  about  the  year  1631, 
as  appears  by  his  essay  on  "  The  JW«?  Digester,  or  Engine  for  Softening  Bones  ;'? 
"  by  the  help  of  which  (he  says)  the  oldest  and  hardest  cow-beef  may  be  made  as 
tender  and  as  savoury  as  young  and  choice  meat." 

Although  we  have  not  yet  found  that  they  do  what  Dr.  Papin  says,  "make  old 
and  tough  meat  young  and  tender,"  they  are,  however,  excellent  things  to  make 
broths  and  soups  in.  Among  a  multitude  of  other  admirable  excellencies  obtainable 
by  his  digester,  Dr.  Papin,  in  his  9th  chapter,  page  54,  on  the  profit  that  a  good 
engine  may  come  to,  says,  "  I  have  found  that  an  old  hat,  very  bad  and  loosely 
ina.de,  having  imbibed  the  jelly  of  bones  became  very  firm  and  stiff," 


224  BROTHS,  GBAVIES,  AND   SOUPS. 

any  scum  rises ;  pour  in  a  little  cold  water,  to  throw  up  the 
scum  that  may  remain ;  let  it  come  to  a  boil  again,  and  again 
skim  it  carefully :  when  no  more  scum  rises,  and  the  broth 
appears  clear  (put  in  neither  roots,  nor  herbs,  nor  salt),  let  it 
boil  for  eight  or  ten  hours,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  hair- 
sieve  into  a  brown  stone  pan ;  set  the  broth  where  it  will 
cool  quickly ;  put  the  meat  into  a  sieve,  let  it  drain,  make 
potted  beef  (No.  503),  or  it  will  be  very  acceptable  to  many 
poor  families.  Next  day  remove  every  particle  of  fat  from 
the  top  of  it,  and  pour  it  through  a  tamis,  or  fine  sieve,  as 
quietly  as  possible,  into  a  stew-pan,  taking  care  not  to  let 
any  of  the  settlings  at  the  bottom  of  the  stone  pan  go  into 
the  stew-pan,  which  should  be  of  thick  copper,  perfectly  well 
tinned ;  add  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  whole  black  pepper  to 
it ;  let  it  boil  briskly,  with  the  stew-pan  uncovered,  on  a  quick 
fire;  if  any  scum  rises,  take  it  off  with  a  skimmer:  when  it 
begins  to  thicken,  and  is  reduced  to  about  a  quart,  put  it  into 
a  smaller  stew-pan ;  set  it  over  a  gentler  fire,  till  it  is  reduced 
to  the  thickness  of  a  very  thick  syrup ;  take  care  that  it  does 
not  burn,  a  moment's  inattention  now  will  lose  you  all  your 
labour,  and  the  soup  will  be  spoiled :  take  a  little  of  it  out  in 
a  spoon  and  let  it  cool ;  if  it  sets  into  a  strong  jelly,  it  is  done 
enough ;  if  it  does  not,  boil  it  a  little  longer  till  it  does ;  have 
ready  some  little  pots,  such  as  are  used  for  potted  meats, 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  taking  care  that  they  are  quite 
dry ;  we  recommend  it  to  be  kept  in  these  pots,  if  it  is  for 
home  consumption  (the  less  it  is  reduced,  the  better  is  the 
flavour  of  the  soup),  if  it  be  sufficiently  concentrated  to  keep 
for  six  months ;  if  you  wish  to  preserve  it  longer,  put  it  into 
such  bladders  as  are  used  for  German  sausages,  or  if  you 
prefer  it  in  the  form  of  cakes,  pour  it  into  a  dish  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  deep;  when  it  is  cold,  turn  it  out  and 
weigh  the  cake,  and  divide  it  with  a  paste-cutter  into  pieces 
of  half  an  ounce  and  an  ounce  each ;  place  them  in  a  warm 
room,  and  turn  them  frequently  till  they  are  thoroughly 
dried ;  this  will  take  a  week  or  ten  days ;  turn  them  twice  a 
day ;  when  well  hardened,  and  kept  in  a  dry  place,  they  may 
be  preserved  for  several  years  in  any  climate. 

This  extract  of  meat  makes  excellent  "  tablettes  de  Bouil- 
lon" for  those  who  are  obliged  to  endure  long  fasting. 

If  the  surface  becomes  mouldy,  wipe  it  with  a  little  warm 
water ;  the  mouldy  taste  does  not  penetrate  the  mass. 

If,  after  several  days'  drying,  it  does  not  become  so  hard 
as  you  wish,  put  it  into  a  bainmarie  stew-pan,  or  milk-boiler, 
till  it  is  evaporated  to  the  consistence  you  wish ;  or,  set  the 
pots  in  a  cool  oven,  or  in  a  cheese-toaster,  at  a  considerable 


BROTHS,  GRAVIES,  ASD   SOUPS.  225 

distance  from  the  fire :  this  is  the  only  safe  way  of  reducing 
it  very  much,  without  the  risk  of  its  burning,  and  acquiring 
an  extremely  disagreeable,  acrid  flavour,  &c. 

O6s.  The  uses  of  this  concentrated  essence  of  meat  are 
numerous.  It  is  equally  economical  and  convenient  for 
making  extempore  broths  enumerated  in  the  Obs.  to  No. 
200,  sauces  and  gravies  for  hashed  or  stewed  meat,  game,  or 
poultry,  &c. 

You  may  thicken  it  and  flavour  it  as  directed  in  No.  329 ; 
to  make  gravy,  sauces,  &c.  take  double  the  quantity  ordered 
for  broth. 

If  you  have  time  and  opportunity,  as  there  is  no  season- 
ing in  the  soup,  either  of  roots,  herbs,  or  spice,  boil  an  onion 
with  or  without  a  bit  of  parsley  and  sweet  herbs,  and  a  few 
corns  of  allspice,  or  other  spice,  in  the  water  you  melt  the 
soup  in,  which  may  be  flavoured  with  mushroom  catchup 
(No.  439),  or  eschalot  wine  (No.  402),  essence  of  sweet 
herbs  (No.  417),  savoury  spice  (No.  421,  or  No.  457),  essence 
of  celery  (No.  409),  &c.  or  zest  (No.  255);  these  may  be 
combined  in  the  proportions  most  agreeable  to  the  palate  of 
the  eater,  and  are  as  portable  as  portable  soup,  for  a  very 
small  portion  will  flavour  a  pint. 

The  editor  adds  nothing  to  the  solution  of  this  soup,  but  a 
very  little  ground  black  pepper  and  some  salt. 

N.B.  If  you  are  a  careful  manager,  you  need  not  always 
purchase  meat  on  purpose  to  make  this ;  when  you  dress  a 
large  dinner,  you  can  make  glaze  at  very  small  cost,  by 
taking  care  of  the  trimmings  and  parings  of  the  meat,  game, 
and  poultry,  you  use:  wash  them  well,  put  them  into  a 
stew-pan,  cover  them  with  the  liquor  you  have  boiled  meat 
in,  and  proceed  as  in  the  above  receipt ;  and  see  Obs.  on 
No.  185. 

MEM.  This  portable  soup  is  a  most  convenient  article  in 
cookery ;  especially  in  small  families,  whe  reit  will  save  a 
great  deal  of  time  and  trouble.  It  is  also  economical,  for  n» 
more  will  be  melted  than  is  wanted ;  so  there  is  no  waste. 

Nine  pounds  of  neck  of  beef,  costing  2s.  7id.  produced 
nine  ounces  of  very  nice  soup;  the  bones,  when  boiled, 
weighed  ten  ounces. 

Half  an  ox-cheek,  costing  Is.  9d.  and  weighing  14f 
pounds,  produced  thirteen  ounces ;  but  not  so  firm  or  clear, 
and  far  inferior  in  flavour  to  that  obtained  from  a  shin  of  beef. 

A  sheep's  head,  costing  9rf.,  produced  three  ounces  and  a 
half. 

Two  pounds  of  lean  meat,  from  the  blade-bone  of  beef; 
producecl  hardly  an  ounce. 


226  BROTHS,    GRAVIES,   AND   SOUPS. 

The  addition  of  an  ounce  of  gum  arabic,  and  two  ounce? 
of  isinglass,  to  four  ounces  of  the  extract  from  a  leg  of  beef, 
considerably  diminished  the  consistence  of  the  mass,  with- 
out adding  to  its  bulk. 

It  has  been  thought  that  the  portable  soup  which  is  manu- 
factured for  sale,  is  partly  made  Avith  ox-heels  ;  but  the  ex- 
periment (No.  198)  proves  this  cannot  be,  as  an  ounce  of  the 
jelly  from  ox-heel  costs  5d.  For  the  cheapest  method  of 
procuring  a  hard  jelly,  see  N.B.  to  No.  481 ;  nineteen  bones, 
costing  4id.  produced  three  ounces :  almost  as  cheap  as 
Salisbury  glue. 

A  knuckle  of  veal,  weighing  4|  pounds,  and  costing  2s. 
\A.  produced  five  ounces. 

A  shin  of  beef,  weighing  nine  pounds,  and  costing  1$. 
W$d.  produced  nine  ounces  of  concentrated  soup,  sufficiently 
reduced  to  keep  for  several  months.  After  the  boiling,  the 
bones  in  this  joint  weighed  two  pounds  and  a  quarter,  and 
the  meat  two  pounds  and  a  quarter. 

The  result  of  these  experiments  is,  that  the  product  from 
legs  and  shins  of  beef  was  almost  as  large  in  quantity,  and 
of  much  superior  quality  and  flavour,  as  that  obtained  from 
any  of  the  other  materials ;  the  flavour  of  the  product  from 
mutton,  veal,  &c.  is  comparatively  insipid. 

As  it  is  difficult  to  obtain  this  ready-made  of  good  quality, 
and  we  could  not  find  any  proper  and  circumstantial  directions 
for  making  it,  which,  on  trial,  answered  the  purpose,  and  it 
is  really  a  great  acquisition  to  the  army  and  navy,  to  tra- 
vellers, invalids,  &c.  the  editor  has  bestowed  some  time,  &c. 
in  endeavouring  to  learn,  and  to  teach,  how  it  may  be  pre- 
pared in  the  easiest,  most  economical,  and  perfect  manner. 

The  ordinary  selling  price  is  from  105.  to  12s.,  but  you 
may  make  it  according  to  the  above  receipt  for  3s.  6d.  per 
pound,  i.  e.  for  21d.  per  ounce,  which  will  make  you  a  pint 
of  broth. 

Those  who  do  not  regard  the  expense,  and  like  the  flavour, 
may  add  the  lean  of  ham,  in  the  proportion  of  a  pound  to 
eight  pounds  of  leg  of  beef. 

It  may  also  be  flavoured,  by  adding  to  it,  at  the  time  you 
put  the  broth  into  the  smaller  stew-pan,  mushroom  catchup, 
eschalot  wine,  essences  of  spice  or  herbs,  &c. ;  we  prefer  it 
quite  plain ;  it  is  then  ready  to  be  converted,  in  an  instant, 
into  a  basin  of  beef  tea,  for  an  invalid,  and  any  flavour  may 
be  immediately  communicated  to  it  by  the  magazine  of 
taste  (No.  462). 


GRAVIES   AND   SAUCES.  227 

To  clarify  Broth  or  Gravy.— (No.  252*.) 

Put  on  the  broth  in  a  clean  stew-pan ;  break  the  white  and 
shell  of  an  egg,  beat  them  together,  put  them  into  the  broth, 
stir  it  with  a  whisk ;  when  it  has  boiled  a  few  minutes,  strain 
it  through  a  tamis  or  a  napkin. 

06s.  A  careful  cook  will  seldom  have  occasion  to  clarify 
her  broths,  &c.  if  prepared  according  to  the  directions  given 
in  No.  200. 


GRAVIES   AND    SAUCES. 

Melted  Butter, 

Is  so  simple  and  easy  to  prepare,  that  it  is  a  matter  of 
general  surprise,  that  what  is  done  so  often  in  every  English 
kitchen,  is  so  seldom  done  right :  foreigners  may  well  say, 
that  although  we  have  only  one  sauce  for  vegetables,  fish, 
flesh,  fowl,  &c.  we  hardly  ever  make  that  good. 

It  is  spoiled  nine  times  out  of  ten,  more  from  idleness  than 
from  ignorance,  and  rather  because  the  cook  won't  than  be- 
cause she  can't  do  it;  which  can  only  be  the  case  when 
housekeepers  will  not  allow  butter  to  do  it  with. 

Good  melted  butter  cannot  be  made  with  mere  flour  and 
water ;  there  must  be  a  full  and  proper  proportion  of  butter. 
As  it  must  be  always  on  the  table,  and  is  the  foundation  of 
almost  all  our  English  sauces,  we  have, 

Melted  butter  and  oysters, 

parsley, 

anchovies, 


shrimps, 

lobsters, 

capers,  &c.  &c.  &c. 

I  have  tried  every  way  of  making  it;  and  I  trust,  at  last, 
that  I  have  written  a  receipt,  which,  if  the  cook  will  eare-> 
fully  observe,  she  will  constantly  succeed  in  giving  satis- 
faction. 

In  the  quantities  of  the  various  sauces  I  have  ordered,  I 
have  had  in  view  the  providing  for  a  family  of  half-a-dozen 
moderate  people. 

Never  pour  sauce  over  meat,  or  even  put  it  into  the  dish* 


228  GRAVIES    AND   SAUCES. 

however  well  made,  some  of  the  company  may  have  aa 
antipathy  to  it ;  tastes  are  as  different  as  faces :  moreover, 
if  it  is  sent  up  separate  in  a  boat,  it  will  keep  hot  longer, 
and  what  is  left  may  be  put  by  for  another  time,  or  used  for 
another  purpose. 

Lastly.  Observe,  that  in  ordering  the  proportions  of  meat, 
butter,  wine,  spice,  &c.  in  the  following  receipts,  the  proper 
quantity  is  set  down,  and  that  a  less  quantity  will  not  do ; 
and  in  some  instances  those  palates  which  have  been  used 
to  the  extreme  of  piquance,  will  require  additional  excite- 
ment.* If  we  have  erred,  it  has  been  on  the  right  side,  from 
an  anxious  wish  to  combine  economy  with  elegance,  and  the 
wholesome  with  the  toothsome. 

Melted  Butter. 

Keep  a  pint  stew-panf  for  this  purpose  only. 

Cut  two  ounces  of  butter  into  little  bits,  that  it  may  melt 
more  easily,  and  mix  more  readily;  put  it  into  the  stew-pan 
with  a  large  tea-spoonful  (*.  e.  about  three  drachms)  of  flour, 
(some  prefer  arrow-root,  or  potato  starch,  No.  448),  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 

When  thoroughly  mixed,  add  six  table-spoonfuls  of  water; 
hold  it  over  the  fire,  and  shake  it  round  every  minute  (all  the 
while  the  same  way),  till  it  just  begins  to  simmer ;  then  let 
it  stand  quietly  and  boil  up.  It  should  be  of  the  thickness 
of  good  cream. 

N.B.  Two  table-spoonfuls  of  No.  439,  instead  of  the  milk, 
will  make  as  good  mushroom  sauce  as  need  be,  and  is  a 
superlative  accompaniment  to  either  fish,  flesh,  or  fowl. 

Obs.  This  is  the  best  way  of  preparing  melted  butter; 
milk  mixes  with  the  butter  much  more  easily  and  more  inti- 
mately than  water  alone  can  be  made  to  do.  This  is  of 
proper  thickness  to  be  mixed  at  table  with  flavouring  essences, 

*  This  may  be  easily  accomplished  by  the  aid  of  that  whip  and  spur,  which  stu- 
dents of  long  standing  in  the  school  of  good  living  are  generally  so  fond  of  enlivening 
their  palates  with,  i.  e.  Cayenne  and  garlic. 

Parsley  (No.  261),  chervil  (No.  264),  celery  (No.  289),  cress  (No.  397*),  tarragon 
(No.  396),  burnet  (No.  399),  basil  (No.  397),  eschalot  (Nos.  295  and  403),  caper  (Nos. 
274  and  295),  fennel  (No.  265),  liver  (Nos.  287  and  288),  curry  (Noa.  348  and  455), 
egg,  (No.  267.)  mushroom  (No.  403),  anchovy  fNos.  270  and  433),  ragout  (Nos.  421 
and  457),  shrimp  (No.  283),  bonne  bouche  (No.  341,)  superlative  (No.  429),  and 
various  flavouring  essences.  See  from  No.  396  to  463. 

Any  of  the  above  vegetables,  &c.  may  be  minced  very  finely,  and  sent  to  table  on 
a  little  plate,  and  those  who  like  their  flavour  may  mix  them  with  melted  butter, 
&c.  This  is  a  hint  for  economists,  which  will  save  them  many  pounds  of  butter, 
&c.  See  MEM.  to  No.  256. 

t  A  silver  saucepan  is  infinitely  the  best :  you  may  have  one  big  enough  to  melt 
batter  for  a  moderate  family,  for  four  or  rive  pounds. 


GRAVIES   AND    SAUCE*.  229 

anchovy,  mushroom,  or  cavice,  &c.  If  made  merely  to  pour 
over  vegetables,  add  a  little  more  milk  to  it. 

N.B.  If  the  butter  oils,  put  a  spoonful  of  cold  water  to  it, 
and  stir  it  with  a  spoon ;  if  it  is  very  much  oiled,  it  must  be 
poured  backwards  and  forwards  from  the  stew-pan  to  the 
sauce-boat  till  it  is  right  again. 

MEM.  Melted  butter  made  to  be  mixed  with  flavouring 
essences,  catchups,  &c.  should  be  of  the  thickness  of  light 
batter,  that  it  may  adhere  to  the  fish,  &c. 

Thickening.--(No.  257.) 

Clarified  butter  is  best  for  this  purpose ;  but  if  you  have 
none  ready,  put  some  fresh  butter  into  a  stew-pan  over  a 
slow,  clear  fire ;  when  it  is  melted,  add  fine  flour  sufficient  to 
make  it  the  thickness  of  paste;  stir  it  well  together  with  a 
wooden  spoon  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  till  it  is  quite 
smooth,  and  the  colour  of  a  guinea :  this  must  be  done  very 
gradually  and  patiently;  if  you  put  it  over  too  fierce  a  fire  to 
hurry  it,  it  will  become  bitter  and  empyreumatic :  pour  it  into 
an  earthen  pan,  and  keep  it  for  use.  It  will  keep  good  a 
fortnight  in  summer,  and  longer  in  winter. 

A  large  spoonful  will  generally  be  enough  to  thicken  a 
quart  of  gravy. 

Obs.  This,  in  the  French  kitchen,  is  called  roux.  Be  par- 
ticularly attentive  in  making  it;  if  it  gets  any  burnt  smell 
or  taste,  it  will  spoil  every  thing  it  is  put  into,  see  Obs.  to 
No.  322.  When  cold,  it  should  be  thick  enough  to  cut  out 
with  a  knife,  like  a  solid  paste. 

It  is  a  very  essential  article  in  the  kitchen,  and  is  the  basis 
of  consistency  in  most  made-dishes,  soups,  sauces,  and 
ragouts ;  if  the  gravies,  &c.  are  too  thin,  add  this  thickening, 
more  or  less,  according  to  the  consistence  you  would  wish 
them  to  have. 

MEM.  In  making  thickening,  the  less  butter,  and  the  more 
flour  you  use,  the  better;  they  must  be  thoroughly  worked 
together,  and  the  broth,  or  soup,  &c.  you  put  them  to,  added 
by  degrees :  take  especial  care  to  incorporate  them  well  toge- 
ther, or  your  sauces,  &c.  will  taste  floury,  and  have  a  dis- 
gusting, greasy  appearance :  therefore,  after  you  have  thick- 
ened your  sauce,  add  to  it  some  broth,  or  warm  water,  in  tfte  , 
proportion  of  two  table-spoonfuls  to  a  pint,  and  set  it  by  the 
side  of  the  fire,  to  raise  any  fat,  &c.  that  is  not  thoroughly 
incorporated  with  the  gravy,  which  you  must  carefully 
remove  as  it  comes  to  the  top.  This  is  called  cleansing,  or 
finishing:  the  sauce. 

U 


230  GRAVIES    AND    SAUCES. 

***  Half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  fleur, 
are  about  the  proportion  for  a  pint  of  sauce  to  make  it  as 
thick  as  cream. 

N.B.  The  fat  skimmings  off  the  top  of  the  broth  pot  are 
sometimes  substituted  for  butter  (see  No.  240) ;  some  cooks 
merely  thicken  their  soups  and  sauces  with  flour,  as  we  have 
directed  in  No.  245,  or  potato  farina,  No.  448. 

Clarified  Butter.— (No.  259.) 

Put  the  butter  in  a  nice,  clean  stew-pan,  over  a  very  clear, 
slow  fire  ;  watch  it,  and  when  it  is  melted,  carefully  skim  off 
the  buttermilk,  &c.  which  will  swim  on  the  top ;  let  it  stand 
a  minute  or  two  for  the  impurities  to  sink  to  the  bottom ; 
then  pour  the  clear  butter  through  a  sieve  into  a  clean  basin, 
leaving  the  sediment  at  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan. 

Obs.  Butter  thus  purified  will  be  as  sweet  as  marrow,  a 
very  useful  covering  for  potted  meats,  &c.,  and  for  frying  fish 
equal  to  the  finest  Florence  oil ;  for  which  purpose  it  is  com- 
monly used  by  Catholics,  and  those  whose  religious  tenets 
will  not  allow  them  to  eat  viands  fried  in  animal  oil. 

Burnt  Butter.— (No.  260.) 

Put  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  a  small  frying-pan ; 
when  it  becomes  a  dark  brown  colour,  add  to  it  a  table- 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  good  vinegar,  and  a  little  pepper  and 
salt. 

Obs.  This  is  used  as  sauce  for  boiled  fish,  or  poached  eggs. 

Oiled  Butter.— (No.  260*.) 

Put  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  a  saucepan ;  set  it  at 
a  distance  from  the  fire,  so  that  it  may  melt  gradually,  till  it 
comes  to  an  oil ;  and  pour  it  off  quietly  from  the  dregs. 

06s.  This  will  supply  the  place  of  olive  oil ;  and  by  some 
is  preferred  to  it  either  for  salads  or  frying. 

Parsley  and  Butter.— (No.  261.) 

Wash  some  parsley  very  clean,  and  pick  it  carefully  leaf 
by  leaf;  put  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  into  half  a  pint  of  boiling 
water:  boil  the  parsley  about  ten  minutes;  drain  it  on  a 
sieve ;  mince  it  quite  fine,  and  then  bruise  it  to  a  pulp. 

The  delicacy  and  excellence  of  this  elegant  and  innocent 
relish  depends  upon  the  parsley  being  minced  very  fine :  put 
it  into  a  sauce-boat,  and  mix  with  it,  by  degrees,  about  half  a 
pint  of  good  melted  butter  (No.  256) ;  only  do  not  put  sa 


G&AVIE5    AKD   SAUCES.  231 

much  flour  to  it,  as  the  parsley  will  add  to  its  thickness : 
never  pour  parsley  and  butter  over  boiled  things,  but  send  it 
up  in  a  boat. 

Obs.  In  French  cookery-books  this  is  called  "  melted  butter, 
English  fashion;"  and,  with  the  addition  of  a  slice  of  lemon 
cut  into  dice,  a  little  allspice  and  vinegar,  "  Dutch  sauce." 

N.B.  To  preserve  parsley  through  the  winter:  in  May, 
June,  or  July,  take  fine  fresh-gathered  sprigs ;  pick,  and  wash 
them  clean ;  set  on  a  stew-pan  half  full  of  water ;  put  a  little 
salt  in  it ;  boil,  and  skim  it  clean,  and  then  put  in  the  parsley, 
and  let  it  boil  for  a  couple  of  minutes;  take  it  out,  and 
lay  it  on  a  sieve  before  the  fire,  that  it  may  be  dried  as  quick 
as  possible ;  put  it  by  in  a  tin  box,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry  place : 
when  you  want  it,  lay  it  in  a  basin,  and  cover  it  with  warm 
water  a  few  minutes  before  you  use  it. 

Gooseberry  Sauce.— -(No.  263.) 

Top  and  tail  them  close  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  and  scald 
half  a  pint  of  green  gooseberries ;  drain  them  on  a  hair-sieve, 
and  put  them  into  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  No.  256. 

Some  add  grated  ginger  and  lemon-peel,  and  the  French, 
minced  fennel;  others  send  up  the  gooseberries  whole  or 
mashed,  without  any  butter,  &c. 

Chervil,  Basil,  Tarragon,  Burnet,  Cress,  and  Butter. —(No.  264.) 

This  is  the  first  time  that  chervil,  which  has  so  long  been 
a  favourite  with  the  sagacious  French  cook,  has  been  intro- 
duced into  an  English  book.  Its  flavour  is  a  strong  concen- 
tration of  the  combined  taste  of  parsley  and  fennel,  but  more 
aromatic  and  agreeable  than  either;  and  is  an  excellent 
sauce  with  boiled  poultry  or  fish.  Prepare  it,  &c.  as  we  have 
directed  for  parsley  and  butter,  No.  261. 

Fennel  and  Butter  for  Mackerel,  4"C. — (No.  265.) 

Is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  we  have  just  described 
in  No.  261. 

Obs.  For  mackerel  sauce,  or  boiled  soles,  &c.,  some  people 
take  equal  parts  of  fennel  and  parsley ;  others  add  a  sprig  of 
mint,  or  a  couple  of  young  onions  minced  very  fine. 

Mackerel-roe  Sauce.— (No.  266.) 

Boil  the  roes  of  mackerel  (soft  roes  are  best) ;  bruise  them 
with  a  spoon  with  the  yelk  of  an  egg,  beat  up  with  a  very 
little  pepper  and  salt,  and  some  fennel  and  parsley  boiled 


23  GRAVIES    AND    SAUCES. 

and  chopped  very  fine,  mixed  with  almost  half  a  pint  of  thin 
melted  butter.     See  No.  256. 
Mushroom  catchup,  walnut  pickle,  or  soy  may  be  added. 

Egg  Sauce.— (No.  267.) 

This  agreeable  accompaniment  to  roasted  poultry,  or  salted 
fish,  is  made  by  putting  three  eggs  into  boiling  water,  and 
boiling  them  for  about  twelve  minutes,  when  they  will  be 
hard ;  put  them  into  cold  water  till  you  want  them.  This 
will  make  the  yelks  firmer,  and  prevent  their  surface  turning 
black,  and  you  can  cut  them  much  neater :  use  only  two  of 
the  whites ;  cut  the  whites  into  small  dice,  the  yelks  into 
bits  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square ;  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
boat  ;  pour  to  them  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  and  stir 
them  together. 

Obs.  The  melted  butter  for  egg  sauce  need  not  be  made 
quite  so  thick  as  No.  256.  If  you  are  for  superlative  egg 
sauce,  pound  the  yelks  of  a  couple  of  eggs,  and  rub  them 
with  the  melted  butter  to  thicken  it. 

N.B.  Some  cooks  garnish  salt  fish  with  hard-boiled  eggs 
cut  in  half. 

Plum-pudding  Sauce.— (No.  269.) 

A  glass  of  sherry,  half  a  glass  of  brandy  (or  "  cherry- 
bounce"),  or  Cura§oa  (No.  474),  or  essence  of  punch  (Nos. 
471  and  479),  and  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  pounded  lump  sugar 
(a  very  little  grated  lemon-peel  is  sometimes  added),  in  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  thick  melted  butter :  grate  nutmeg  on 
the  top. 

See  Pudding  Catchup,  No.  446. 

Anchovy  Sauce.— (No.  270.) 

Pound  three  anchovies  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  bit  of 
butter ;  rub  it  through  a  double  hair-sieve  with  the  back  of  a 
wooden  spoon,  and  stir  it  into  almost  half  a  pint  of  melted 
butter  (No.  256) ;  or  stir  in  a  table-spoonful  of  essence  of 
anchovy,  No.  433.  To  the  above,  many  cooks  add  lemon- 
juice  and  Cayenne. 

Obs.  Foreigners  make  this  sauce  with  good  brown  sauce 
(No.  329),  or  white  sauce  (No.  364) ;  instead  of  melted  butter, 
add  to  it  catchup,  soy,  and  some  of  their  flavoured  vinegars, 
(as  elder  or  tarragon),  pepper  and  fine  spice,  sweet  herbst 
capers,  eschalots,  &c,  They  serve  it  with  most  roasted 
meats. 


GRAVIES   AND   SAUCES.  233 

N.B.  Keep  your  anchovies  well  covered;  first  tie  down 
your  jar  with  bladder  moistened  with  vinegar,  and  then  wiped 
dry ;  tie  leather  over  that :  when  you  open  a  jar,  moisten  the 
bladder,  and  it  will  come  off  easily ;  as  soon  as  you  have 
taken  out  the  fish,  replace  the  coverings  ;  the  air  soon  rusts 
and  spoils  anchovies.  See  No.  433,  &c. 

Garlic  Sauce.— (No.  272.) 

Pound  two  cloves  of  garlic  with  a  piece  of  fresh  butter, 
about  as  big  as  a  nutmeg ;  rub  it  through  a  double  hair-sieve, 
and  stir  it  into  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  or  beef  gravy  or 
make  it  with  garlic  vinegar,  Nos.  400,  401,  and  402. 

Lemon  Sauce.— (No.  273.) 

Pare  a  lemon,  and  cut  it  into  slices  twice  as  thick  as  a 
half-crown  piece  ;  divide  these  into  dice,  and  put  them  into  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  No.  256. 

Obs. — Some  cooks  mince  a  bit  of  the  lemon-peel  (pared 
very  thin)  veiy  fine,  and  add  it  to  the  above. 

Caper  Sauce.— (No.  274.     See  also  No.  295.) 

To  make  a  quarter  of  a  pint,  take  a  table-spoonful  of 
capers,  and  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vinegar. 

The  present  fashion  of  cutting  capers  is  to  mince  one-third 
of  them  very  fine,  and  divide  the  others  in  half;  put  them 
into  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  or  good  thickened 
gravy  (No.  329);  stir  them  the  same  way  as  you  did  the 
melted  butter,  or  it  will  oil. 

Obs. — Some  boil,  and  mince  fine  a  few  leaves  of  parsley, 
or  chervil,  or  tarragon,  and  add  these  to  the  sauce  ;  others 
the  juice  of  half  a  Seville  orange,  or  lemon. 

Mem. — Keep  the  caper  bottle  very  closely  corked,  and  do 
not  use  any  of  the  caper  liquor :  if  the  capers  are  not  well 
covered  with  it,  they  will  immediately  spoil ;  and  it  is  an 
excellent  ingredient  in  hashes,  &c.  The  Dutch  use  it  as  a 
fish  sauce,  mixing  it  with  melted  butter. 

Mock  Caper  Sauce.— (No.  275,  or  No.  295.) 

Cut  some  pickled  green  pease,  French  beans,  gherkins,  or 
nasturtiums,  into  bits  the  size  of  capers  ;  put  them  into  half 
a  pint  of  melted  butter,  with  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon- 
juice,  or  nice  vinegar. 

U  2 


234  GBAVIES   AND    SAUCES. 

Oyster  Sauce.— (No.  278.) 

Choose  plump  and  juicy  natives  for  this  purpose :  don't 
lake  them  out  of  their  shell  till  you  put  them  into  the  stew- 
pan,  see  Obs.  to  No.  181. 

To  make  good  oyster  sauce  for  half  a  dozen  hearty  fish- 
eaters,  you  cannot  have  less  than  three  or  four  dozen  oysters. 
Save  their  liquor;  strain  it,  and  put  it  and  them  into  a 
Htew-pan :  as  soon  as  they  boil,  and  the  fish  plump,  take  them 
off  the  fire,  and  pour  the  contents  of  the  stew-pan  into  a 
sieve  over  a  clean  basin  ;  wash  the  stew-pan  out  with  hot 
water,  and  put  into  it  the  strained  liquor,  with  about  an  equal 
quantity  of  milk,  and  about  two  ounces  and  a  half  of  butter, 
with  which  you  have  well  rubbed  a  large  table-spoonful  of 
flour ;  give  it  a  boil  up,  and  pour  it  through  a  sieve  into  a 
basin  (that  the  sauce  may  be  quite  smooth),  and  then  back 
again  into  the  saucepan;  now  shave  the  oysters,  and  (if  you 
have  the  honour  of  making  sauce  for  "  a  committee  of  taste," 
take  away  the  gristly  part  also)  put  in  only  the  soft  part  of 
them :  if  they  are  very  large,  cut  them  in  half,  and  set 
them  by  the  fire  to  keep  hot :  "  if  they  boil  after,  they 
will  become  hard." 

If  you  have  not  liquor  enough,  add  a  little  melted  butter, 
or  cream  (see  No.  388),  or  milk  beat  up  with  the  yelk  of  an 
egg  (this  must  not  be  put  in  till  the  sauce  is  done).  Some 
barbarous  cooks  add  pepper,  or  mace,  the  juice  or  peel  of  a 
lemon,  horseradish,  essence  of  anchovy,  Cayenne,  &c. : 
plain  sauces  are  only  to  taste  of  the  ingredient  from  which 
they  derive  their  name. 

Obs. — It  will  very  much  heighten  the  flavour  of  this  sauce 
to  pound  the  soft  part  of  half  a  dozen  (unboiled)  oysters ; 
rub  it  through  a  hair-sieve,  and  then  stir  it  into  the  sauce : 
this  essence  of  oyster  (and  for  some  palates  a  few  grains 
of  Cayenne)  is  the  only  addition  we  recommend.  See 
No.  441. 

Preserved  Oysters.*— (No.  280.) 

Open  the  oysters  carefully,  so  as  not  to  cut  them  except 
in  dividing  the  gristle  which  attaches  the  shells  ;  put  them 
into  a  mortar,  and  when  you  have  got  as  many  as  you  can 
conveniently  pound  at  once,  add  about  two  drachms  of  salt 
to  a  dozen  oysters ;  pound  them,  and  rub  them  through  the 

*  Oyfrters  which  come  to  the  New- York  market,  are  too  large  and  fine  to  le 
Dangled  according  to  this  receipt.  They  are  generally  cooked  by  being  fried  or 
Ktcxved.  When  they  are  intended  to  be  kept  a  length  of  time,  they  are  pickled  in 
viiregar,  with  spices.  A. 


GRAVIES   AND   SAUCES.  235 

back  of  a  hair-sieve,  and  put  them  into  a  mortar  again,  with 
as  much  flour  (which  has  been  previously  thoroughly  dried) 
as  will  make  them  into  a  paste ;  roll  it  out  several  times,  and, 
lastly,  flour  it,  and  roll  it  out  the  thickness  of  a  half-crown, 
and  divide  it  into  pieces  about  an  inch  square ;  lay  them  in  a 
Dutch  oven,  where  they  will  dry  so  gently  as  not  to  get 
burnt :  turn  them  every  half  hour,  and  when  they  begin  to 
dry,  crumble  them;  they  will  take  about  four  hours  to  dry; 
then  pound  them  fine,  sift  them,  and  put  them  into  bottles, 
and  seal  them  over. 

N.B.  Three  dozen  of  natives  required  7i  ounces  of  dried 
flour  to  make  them  into  a  paste,  which  then  weighed  11 
ounces ;  when  dried  and  powdered,  64  ounces. 

To  make  half  a  pint  of  sauce,  put  one  ounce  of  butter 
into  a  stew-pan  with  three  drachms  of  oyster  powder,  and 
six  table-spoonfuls  of  milk  ;  set  it  on  a  slow  fire ;  stir  it  till 
it  boils,  and  season  it  with  salt. 

This  powder,  if  made  with  plump,  juicy  natives,  will  abound 
with  the  flavour  of  the  fish ;  and  if  closely  corked,  and  kept 
in  a  dry  place,  will  remain  good  for  some  time. 

Obs. — This  extract  is  a  welcome  succedaneum  while 
oysters  are  put  of  season,  and  in  such  inland  parts  as  seldom 
have  any,  is  a  valuable  addition  to  the  list  of  fish  sauces : 
it  is  equally  good  with  boiled  fowl,  or  rump  steak,  and 
sprinkled  on  bread  and  butter  makes  a  very  good  sandwich, 
and  is  especially  worthy  the  notice  of  country  housekeepers, 
and  as  a  store  sauce  for  the  army  and  navy.  See  Anchovy 
Powder,  No.  435. 

Shrimp  Sauce.— (No.  283.) 

Shell  a  pint  of  shrimps ;  pick  them  clean,  wash  them,  and 
put  them  into  half  a  pint  of  good  melted  butter.  A  pint  of 
unshelled  shrimps  is  about  enough  for  four  persons. 

Obs. — Some  stew  the  heads  and  shells  of  the  shrimps, 
(with  or  without  a  blade  of  bruised  mace,)  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  and  strain  off  the  liquor  to  melt  the  butter  with, 
and  add  a  little  lemon-juice,  Cayenne,  and  essence  of 
anchovy,  or  soy,  cavice,  &c. ;  but  the  -'avour  of  the 
shrimp  is  so  delicate,  that  it  will  be  overcome  by  any  such 
additions. 

MEM. — If  your  shrimps  are  not  quite  fresh,  they  will  eat 
tough  and  thready,  as  other  stale  fish  do.  See  06s.  ta 
No.  140* 


236  GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES. 

Lobster  Sauce.— (No.  284.) 

Choose  a  fine  spawny  hen  lobster;*  be  sure  it  is  fresh,  so 
get  a  live  one  if  you  can,  (one  of  my  culinary  predecessors 
says,  "  let  it  be  heavy  and  lively,")  and  boil  it  as  No.  176 ; 
pick  out  the  spawn  and  the  red  coral  into  a  mortar,  add  to  it 
half  an  ounce  of  butter,  pound  it  quite  smooth,  and  rub  it 
through  a  hair-sieve  with  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon ;  cut 
the  meat  of  the  lobster  into  small  squares,.or  pull  it  to  pieces 
with  a  fork ;  put  the  pounded  spawn  into  as  much  melted 
butter  (No.  256)  as  you  think  will  do,  and  stir  it  together  till 
it  is  thoroughly  mixed ;  now  put  to  it  the  meat  of  the  lobster, 
and  warm  it  on  the  fire  ;  take  care  it  does  not  boil,  which 
will  spoil  its  complexion,  and  its  brilliant'  red  colour  will 
immediately  fade. 

The  above  is  a  very  easy  and  excellent  manner  of  making 
this  sauce. 

Some  use  strong  beef  or  veal  gravy  instead  of  melted 
butter,  adding  anchovy,  Cayenne,  catchup,  cavice,  lemon- 
juice,  or  pickle,  or  wine,  &c. 

Obs. — Save  a  little  of  the  inside  red  coral  spawn,  and  rub 
it  through  a  sieve  (without  butter) :  it  is  a  very  ornamental 
garnish  to  sprinkle  over  fish;  and  if  the  skin  is  broken, 
(which  will  sometimes  happen  to  the  most  careful  cook,  when 
there  is  a  large  dinner  to  dress,  and  many  other  things  to 
attend  to,)  you  will  find  it  a  convenient  and  elegant  veil,  to 
conceal  your  misfortune  from  the  prying  eyes  of  piscivorous 
gourmands. 

N.B.  Various  methods  have  been  tried  to  preserve  lob- 
sters, see  No.  178,  and  lobster  spawn,  for  a  store  sauce. 
The  live  spawn  may  be  kept  some  time  in  strong  salt  and 
water,  or  in  an  ice-house. 

The  following  process  might,  perhaps,  preserve  it  longer. 
Put  it  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  with  a  large  spoonful 
of  salt  in  it,  and  let  it  boil  quick  for  five  minutes ;  then 
drain  it  on  a  hair-sieve  ;  spread  it  out  thin  on  a  plate,  and 
set  it  in  a  Dutch  oven  till  it  is  thoroughly  dried ;  grind  it  in  a 
clean  mill,  and  pack  it  closely  in  well-stopped  bottles.  See 
also  Potted  Lobsters,  No.  178. 

*  You  must  have  a  hen  lobster,  on  account  of  the  live  spawn.  Some  fishmonger* 
have  a  cruel  custom  of  tearing  this  from  the  fish  before  they  are  boiled.  Lift  up 
the  tail  of  the  lobster,  and  see  that  it  has  not  been  robbed  of  its  eggs :  the  goodness 
of  your  sauce  depends  upon  its  having  a  full  share  of  the  spawn  in  it,  to  which  it 
owes  not  merely  its  brilliant  red  colour,  but  the  finest  part  of  its  flavour. 


GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES.  237 

Sauce  for  Lobster,  &c.—(No.  285.    See  also  No.  372.) 

Bruise  the  yelks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  with  the  back  of 
a  wooden  spoon,  or  rather  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  with  a 
tea-spoonful  of  water,  and  the  soft  inside  and  the  spawn  of 
the  lobster ;  rub  them  quite  smooth,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of 
made  mustard,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  and  five  of 
vinegar ;  season  it  with  a  very  little  Cayenne  pepper,  and 
some  salt. 

06s. — To  this,  elder  or  tarragon  vinegar  (No.  396),  or 
anchovy  essence  (No.  433),  is  occasionally  added. 

Liver  and  Parsley  Sauce, — (No.  287.)  or  Liver  and  Lemon 
Sauce. 

Wash  the  liver  (it  must  be  perfectly  fresh)  of  a  fowl 
or  rabbit,  and  boil  it  five  minutes  in  five  table-spoonfuls 
of  water;  chop  it  fine,  or  pound  or  bruise  it  in  a  small 
quantity  of  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in,  and  rub  it  through 
a  sieve :  wash  about  one-third  the  bulk  of  parsley  leaves, 
put  them  on  to  boil  in  a  little  boiling  water,  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  in  it ;  lay  it  on  a  hair-sieve  to  drain,  and 
mince  it  very  fine ;  mix  it  with  the  liver,  and  put  it  into  a 
quarter  pint  of  melted  butter,  and  warm  it  up;  do  not 
let  it  boil.  Or, 

To  make  Lemon  and  Liver  Sauce. 

Pare  off  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  or  of  a  Seville  orange,  as 
thin  as  possible,  so  as  not  to  cut  off  any  of  the  white  with 
it ;  now  cut  off  all  the  white,  and  cut  the  lemon  into  slices, 
about  as  thick  as  a  couple  of  half-crowns;  pick  out  the 
pips,  and  divide  the  slices  into  small  squares :  add  these,  and 
a  little  of  the  peel  minced  very  fine  to  the  liver,  prepared  as . 
directed  above,  and  put  them  into  the  melted  butter,  and 
warm  them  together ;  but  do  not  let  them  boil. 

N.B.  The  poulterers  can  always  let  you  have  fresh  livers, 
if  that  of  the  fowl  or  rabbit  is  not  good,  or  not  large  enough 
to  make  as  much  sauce  as  you  wish. 

06s.— Some  cooks,  instead  of  pounding,  mince  the  liver 
very  fine  (with  half  as  much  bacon),  and  leave  out  the 
parsley ;  others  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  some  of 
the  peel  grated,  or  a  tea-spoonful  of  tarragon  or  Ghili  vinegar, 
a  table-spoonful  of  white  wine,  or  a  little  beaten  mace,  or 
nutmeg,  or  allspice :  if  you  wish  it  a  little  more  lively  on  the 
palate,  pound  an  eschalot,  or  a  few  leaves  of  tarragon  or 
basil,  with  anchovy,  or  catchup,  or  Cayenne. 


238  GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES. 

Liver  Sauce  for  Fish.— (No.  288.) 

Boil  the  liver  of  the  fish,  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  a 
little  flour ;  stir  it  into  some  broth,  or  some  of  the  liquor  the 
fish  was  boiled  in,  or  melted  butter,  parsley,  and  a  few  grains 
of  Cayenne,  a  little  essence  of  anchovy  (No.  433),  or  soy, 
or  catchup  (No.  439) ;  give  it  a  boil  up,  and  rub  it  through 
a  sieve :  you  may  add  a  little  lemon-juice,  or  lemon  cut 
in  dice. 

Celery  Sauce,  white.— (No.  289.) 

Pick  and  wash  two  heads  of  nice  white  celery ;  cut  it  into 
pieces  about  an  inch  long ;  stew  it  in  a  pint  of  water,  and  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt,  till  the  celery  is  tender  ;*  roll  an  ounce 
of  butter  with  a  table-spoonful  of  flour ;  add  this  to  half  a 
pint  of  cream,  and  give  it  a  boil  up. 

N.B.  See  No.  409. 

Celery  Sauce  Purte,  for  boiled  Turkey,  Veal,  Fowls,  fyc. 
(No.  290.) 

Cut  small  half  a  dozen  heads  of  nice  white  celery  that  is 
quite  clean,  and  two  onions  sliced ;  put  in  a  two-quart  stew- 
pan,  with  a  small  lump  of  butter ;  sweat  them  over  a  slow 
fire  till  quite  tender,  then  put  in  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  half 
a  pint  of  water  (or  beef  or  veal  broth),  salt  and  pepper,  and 
a  little  cream  or  milk ;  boil  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  pass 
through  a  fine  hair-sieve  with  the  back  of  a  spoon. 

If  you  wish  for  celery  sauce  when  celery  is  not  in  season, 
a  quarter  of  a  drachm  of  celery-seed,  or  a  little  essence  of 
celery  (No.  409),  will  impregnate  half  a  pint  of  sauce  with  a 
sufficient  portion  of  the  flavour  of  the  vegetable 

See  Obs.  to  No.  214. 

Green  or  Sorrel  Sauce. — (No.  291.) 

Wash  and  clean  a  large  ponnet  of  sorrel ;  put  it  into  a 
stew-pan  that  will  just  hold  it,  with  a  bit  of  butter  the  size  of 
an  egg ;  cover  it  close,  set  it  over  a  slow  fire  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  pass  the  sorrel  with  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon 
through  a  hair-sieve,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  small 
pinch  of  powdered  sugar,  make  it  hot,  and  serve  up  under 

*  So  much  depends  upon  the  age  of  the  celery,  that  we  cannot  give  any  precis^ 
lime  for  this.  Young,  fresh-gathered  celery  will  be  done  enough  in  three-quarters 
of  an  hour ;  old  will  sometimes  take  twice  as  long. 


GRAVIES   AND    SAUCES.  £39 

lamb,  veal,  sweetbreads,  &c.  &c.    Cayenne,  nutmeg,  and 
lemon-juice  are  sometimes  added. 

Tomato,  or  Love-apple  Sauce.— (No.  292.     See  also  No.  443.) 

Have  twelve  or  fifteen  tomatas,  ripe  and  red ;  take  off  the 
stalk;  cut  them  in  half;  squeeze  them  just  enough  to  get  all 
the  water  and  seeds  out;  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  a 
capsicum,  arid  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  beef  gravy ; 
set  them  on  a  slow  stove  for  an  hour,  or  till  properly  melted ; 
then  rub  them  through  a  tamis  into  a  clean  stew-pan,  with  a 
little  white  pepper  and  salt,  and  let  them  simmer  together  a 
few  minutes. 

[Love-apple  Sauce  according  to  Ude. 

Melt  in  a  stew-pan  a  dozen  or  two  of  love-apples  (which, 
before  putting  in  the  stew-pan,  cut  in  two,  and  squeeze  the 
juice  and  the  seeds  out) ;  then  put  two  eschalots,  one  onion, 
with  a  few  bits  of  ham,  a  clove,  a  little  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a 
few  leaves  of  mace,  and  when  melted,  rub  them  through  a 
tamis.  Mix  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good  Espagnole  or  Spanish 
sauce,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  with  this  puree.  Boil  it 
for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  up.  A.] 

Mock  Tomato  Sauce.— (No.  293.) 

The  only  difference  between  this  and  genuine  love-apple 
sauce,  is  the  substituting  the  pulp  of  apple  for  that  of  tomata, 
colouring  it  with  turmeric,  and  communicating  an  acid  flavour 
to  it  by  vinegar. 

Eschalot  Sauce.— (No.  294.) 

Take  four  eschalots,  and  make  it  in  the  same  manner  as 
garlic  sauce  (No.  272).  Or, 

You  may  make  this  sauce  more  extemporaneously  by  put- 
ting two  table-spoonfuls  of  eschalot  wine  (No.  403),  and  a 
sprinkling  of  pepper  and  salt,  into  (almost)  half  a  pint  of 
thick  melted  butter. 

Obs. — This  is  an  excellent  sauce  for  chops  or  steaks; 
many  are  very  fond  of  it  with  roasted  or  boiled  meat, 
poultry,  &c. 

Eschalot  Sauce  for  boiled  Mutton.— (No.  295.) 

This  is  a  very  frequent  and  satisfactory  substitute  for 
"  caper  sauce." 


240  GRAVIES  AND   SAUCES. 

Mince  four  eschalots  very  fine,  and  put  them  into  a  small 
saucepan,  with  almost  half  a  pint  of  the  liquor  the  mutton 
was  boiled  in :  let  them  boil  up  for  five  minutes ;  then  put 
in  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  a  quarter  tea-spoonful  of 
pepper,  a  little  salt,  and  a  bit  of  butter  (as  big  as  a  walnut) 
rolled  in  flour ;  shake  together  till  it  boils.  See  (No.  402) 
Eschalot  Wine. 

O6s. — We  like  a  little  lemon-peel  with  eschalot ;  the  haut 
gout  of  the  latter  is  much  ameliorated  by  the  delicate  aroma 
of  the  former. 

Some  cooks  add  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley. 

Young  Onion  Sauce.— (No.  296.) 

Peel  a  pint  of  button  onions,  and  put  them  in  water  till 
you  want  to  put  them  on  to  boil ;  put  them  into  a  stew-pan, 
with  a  quart  of  cold  water ;  let  them  boil  till  tender ;  they 
will  take  (according  to  their  size  and  age)  from  half  an  hour 
to  an  hour.  You  may  put  them  into  half  a  pint  of  No.  307. 
See  also  No.  137. 

Onion  Sauce.— (No.  297.) 

Those  who  like  the  full  flavour  of  onions  only  cut  off  the 
strings  and  tops  (without  peeling  off  any  of  the  skins),  put 
them  into  salt  and  water,  and  let  them  lie  an  hour ;  then 
wash  them,  put  them  into  a  kettle  with  plenty  of  water, 
and  boil  them  till  they  are  tender:  now  skin  them,  pass 
them  through  a  colander,  and  mix  a  little  melted  butter  with 
them. 

N.B.  Some  mix  the  pulp  of  apples,  or  turnips,  with  the 
onions  others  add  mustard  to  them. 

White  Onion  Sauce.— (No.  298.) 

The  following  is  a  more  mild  and  delicate*  preparation : 
Take  half  a  dozen  of  the  largest  and  whitest  onions  (the 
Spanish  are  the  mildest,  but  these  can  only  be  had  from 
August  to  December) ;  peel  them  and  cut  them  in  half,  and 
lay  them  in  a  pan  of  spring-water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
and  then  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  and  then,  if  you  wish 
them  to  taste  very  mild,  pour  off  that  water,  and  cover  them 
with  fresh  boiling  water,  and  let  them  boil  till  they  are  tender, 
which  will  sometimes  take  three-quarters  of  an  hour  longer ; 

*  If  you  wish  to  have  them  very  mild,  cut  them  in  quarters,  boil  them  for  five 
minutes  »n  plenty  of  water,  and  then  drain  them,  and  cook  them  iii  fresh  water. 


GRAVIES    A3D    SAUCES.  241 

drain  them  well  on  a  hair-sieve ;  lay  them  on  the  chopping- 
board,  and  chop  and  bruise  them ;  put  them  into  a  clean  sauce- 
pan, with  some  butter  and  flour,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt, 
and  some  cream,  or  good  milk ;  stir  it  till  it  boils  ;  then  rub 
the  whole  through  a  tamis,  or  sieve,  adding  cream  or  milk,  to 
make  it  the  consistence  you  wish. 

Obs. — This  is  the  usual  sauce  for  boiled  rabbits,  mu-t- 
ton,  or  tripe.  There  must  be  plenty  of  it;  the  usual 
expression  signifies  as  much,  for  we  say,  smother  them 
with  it. 

Brown  Onion  Sauces,  or  Onion  Gravy.— (No.  299.) 

Peel  and  slice  the  onions  (some  put  in  an  equal  quantity 
of  cucumber  or  celery)  into  a  quart  stew-pan,  with  an  ounce 
of  butter ;  set  it  on  a  slow  fire,  and  turn  the  onion  about  till 
it  is  very  lightly  browned;  now  gradually  stir  in  half  an 
ounce  of  flour ;  add  a  little  broth,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ; 
boil  up  for  a  few  minutes ;  add  a  table-spoonful  of  claret,  or 
port  wine,  and  same  of  mushroom  catchup,  (you  may  sharpen 
it  with  a  little  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,)  and  rub  it  through  a 
tamis  or  fine  sieve. 

Curry  powder  (No.  348)  will  convert  this  into  excellent 
curry  sauce. 

N.B.  If  this  sauce  is  for  steaks,  shred  an  ounce  of  onions, 
fry  them  a  nice  brown,  and  put  them  to  the  sauce  you  have 
rubbed  through  a  tamis ;  or  some  very  small,  round,  young 
silver  button  onions  (see  No.  296),  peeled  and  boiled  tender, 
and  put  in  whole  when  your  sauce  is  done,  will  be  an  ac- 
ceptable addition. 

06s. — If  you  have  no  broth,  put  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  and 
see  No.  252 ;  just  before  you  give  it  the  last  boil  up,  add  to  ii 
another  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup,  or  the  same 
quantity  of  port  wine  or  good  ale. 

The  flavour  of  this  sauce  may  be  varied  by  adding  tarragon 
or  burnet  vinegar  (Nos.  396  and  399). 

Sage  and  Onion,  or  Goose-sniffing  Sauce.—(No.  300.) 

Chop  very  fine  an  ounce  of  onion  and  half  an  ounce  of 
green  sage  leaves ;  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  four  spoon- 
fuls of  water ;  simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes ;  then  put  in  a 
tea-spoonful  of  pepper  and  salt,  and  one  ounce  of  fine  bread- 
crumbs ;  mix  well  together ;  then  pour  to  it  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  (broth,  or  gravy,  or)  melted  butter,  stir  well  together, 
and  simmer  it  a  few  minutes  longer. 

X 


242  GRAVIES   AND   SAUCES. 

06s.  This  is  a  very  relishing  sauce  for  roast  pork,  poultry, 
geese,  or  ducks ;  or  green  pease  on  maigre  days. 
See  also  Bonne  Bouche  for  the  above,  No.  341. 

Green  Mint  Sauce.— (No.  303.) 

Wash  half  a  handful  of  nice,  young,  fresh-gathered  green, 
mint  (to  this  some  add  one-third  the  quantity  of  parsley) ; 
pick  the  leaves  from  the  stalks,  mince  them  very  fine,  and 
put  them  into  a  sauce-boat,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  moist 
sugar,  and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar. 

Obs. — This  is  the  usual  accompaniment  to  hot  lamb ;  and 
an  equally  agreeable  relish  with  cold  lamb. 

If  green  mint  cannot  be  procured,  this  sauce  may  be  made 
with  mint  vinegar  (No.  398). 

Apple  Sauce.— (No.  304.) 

Pare  and  core  three  good-sized  baking  apples ;  put  them 
into  a  well-tinned  pint  saucepan,  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  cold  water ;  cover  the  saucepan  close,  and  set  it  on  a 
trivet  over  a  slow  fire  a  couple  of  hours  before  dinner  (some 
apples  will  take  a  long  time  stewing,  others  will  be  ready 
in  a  quarter  of  an  hour)  :  when  the  apples  are  done  enough, 
pour  off  the  water,  let  them  stand  a  few  minutes  to  get 
dry ;  then  beat  them  up  with  a  fork,  with  a  bit  of  butter 
about  as  big  as  a  nutmeg,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  powdered 
sugar. 

N.B.  Some  add  lemon-peel,  grated,  or  minced  fine,  or  boil 
a  bit  with  the  apples.  Some  are  fond  of  apple  sauce  with 
cold  pork :  ask  those  you  serve  if  they  desire  it. 

Mushroom  Sauce.— (No.  305.) 

Pick  and  peel  half  a  pint  of  mushrooms  (the  smaller  the 
better) ;  wash  them  very  clean,  and  put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan, with  half  a  pint  of  veal  gravy  or  milk,  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  and  an  ounce  of  butter  rubbed  with  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour ;  stir  them  together,  and  set  them  over  a  gentle 
fire,  to  stew  slowly  till  tender ;  skim  and  strain  it. 

O6«. — It  will  be  a  great  improvement  to  this,  and  the 
two  following  sauces,  to  add  to  them  the  juice  of  half  a 
dozen  mushrooms,  prepared  the  day  before,  by  sprinkling 
them  with  salt,  the  same  as  when  you  make  catchup ;  or 
add  a  large  spoonful  of  good  double  mushroom  catchup 
(No.  439). 

See  Quintessence  of  Mushrooms,  No.  440. 


GRAVIES    AND    SAUCES.  243 

N.B.  Much  as  we  love  the  flavour  of  mushrooms,  we  must 
enter  our  protest  against  their  being  eaten  in  substance,  when 
the  morbid  effects  they  produce  too  often  prove  them  worthy 
of  the  appellations  Seneca  gave  them,  "  voluptuous  poison," 
"  lethal  luxury,"  &c. ;  and  we  caution  those  who  cannot  re- 
frain from  indulging  their  palate  with  the  seducing  relish  of 
this  deceitful  fungus,  to  masticate  it  diligently. 

We  do  not  believe  that  mushrooms  are  nutritive ;  every  one 
knows  they  are  often  dangerously  indigestible ;  therefore  the 
rational  epicure  will  be  content  with  extracting  the  flavour 
from  them,  which  is  obtained  in  the  utmost  perfection  by  the 
process  directed  in  No.  439. 

Mushroom  Sauce,  brown. — (No.  306.) 

Put  the  mushrooms  into  half  a  pint  of  beef  gravy  (No. 
186,  or  No.  329)  ;  thicken  with  flour  and  butter,  and  proceed 
as  above. 

Mushroom  Sauce,  extempore. — (No.  307.) 

Proceed  as  directed  in  No.  256  to  melt  butter,  only,  instead 
of  two  table-spoonfuls  of  milk,  put  in  two  of  mushroom 
catchup  (No.  439  or  No.  440) ;  or  add  it  to  thickened  broth, 
gravy,  or  mock  turtle  soup,  &c.  or  put  in  No.  296. 

O6s.  This  is  a  welcome  relish  with  fish,  poultry,  or  chops 
and  steaks,  &c.  A  couple  of  quarts  of  good  catchup  (No. 
439,)  will  make  more  good  sauce  than  ten  times  its  cost  of 
meat,  &c. 

Walnut  catchup  will  give  you  another  variety ;  and  Ball's 
cavice,  which  is  excellent. 

Poor  Man's  Sauce.— (No.  310.) 

Pick  a  handful  of  parsley  leaves  from  the  stalks,  mince 
them  very  fine,  strew  over  a  little  salt ;  shred  fine  half  a 
dozen  young  green  onions,  add  these  to  the  parsley,  and  put 
them  into  a  sauce-boat,  with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  oil,  and 
five  of  vinegar ;  add  some  ground  black  pepper  and  salt ;  stir 
together  and  send  it  up. 

Pickled  French  beans  or  gherkins,  cut  fine,  may  be  added, 
or  a  little  grated  horseradish. 

O6s. — This  sauce  is  in  much  esteem  in  France,  where 
people  of  taste,  weary  of  rich  dishes,  to  obtain  the  charm  of 
variety,  occasionally  order  the  fare  of  the  peasant. 


244  GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES. 

The  Spaniard's  Garlic  Gravy.— (No.  311.    See  also  No.  272.) 

Slice  a  pound  and  a  half  of  veal  or  beef,  pepper  and  salt 
it,  lay  it  in  a  stew-pan  with  a  couple  of  carrots  split,  and  four 
cloves  of  garlic  sliced,  a  quarter  pound  of  sliced  ham,  and  a 
large  spoonful  of  water ;  set  the  stew-pan  over  a  gentle  fire, 
and  watch  when  the  meat  begins  to  stick  to  the  pan ;  when  it 
does,  turn  it,  and  let  it  be  very  well  browned  (but  take  care 
it  is  not  at  all  burned) ;  then  dredge  it  with  flour,  and  pour 
in  a  quart  of  broth,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  couple  of  cloves 
bruised,  and  slice  in  a  lemon;  set  it  on  again,  and  let  it  sim- 
mer gently  for  an  hour  and  a  half  longer ;  then  take  off  the 
fat,  and  strain  the  gravy  from  the  ingredients,  by  pouring  it 
through  a  napkin,  straining,  and  pressing  it  very  hard. 

06s. — This,  it  is  said,  was  the  secret  of  the  old  Spaniard, 
who  kept  the  house  called  by  that  name  on  Hampstead 
Heath. 

Those  who  love  garlic,  will  find  it  an  extremely  rich 
relish. 


Mr.  Michael  Kelly's*  Sauce  for  boiled  Tripe,  Calfihead,  or 
Cow-heel— (No.  311*.) 

Garlic  vinegar,  a  table-spoonful;  of  mustard,  brown  sugar, 
and  black  pepper,  a  tea-spoonful  each ;  stirred  into  half  a  pint 
of  oiled  melted  butter. 

Mr.  Kelly'' s  Sauce  piquante. 

Pound  a  table-spoonful  of  capers,  and  one  of  minced 
parsley,  as  fine  as  possible;  then  add  the  yelks  of  three 
hard  eggs,  rub  them  well  together  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
mustard ;  bone  six  anchovies,  and  pound  them,  rub  them 
through  a  hair-sieve,  and  mix  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
oil,  one  of  vinegar,  one  of  eschalot  ditto,  and  a  few  grains 
of  Cayenne  pepper ;  rub  all  these  well  together  in  a  mortar, 
till  thoroughly  incorporated ;  then  stir  them  into  half  a  pint 
of  good  gravy,  or  melted  butter,  and  put  the  whole  through 
a  sieve. 

Fried  Parsley.— (No.  317.) 

Let  it  be  nicely  picked  and  washed,  then  put  into  a  cloth, 
and  swung  backwards  and  forwards  till  it  is  perfectly  dry ; 

*  Composer  and  Director  of  the  Music  of  the  Theatre  Royal  Drury  Lane,  and 
the  Italian  Opera. 


GRAVIES    AND    SAUCES.  245 

put  it  into  a  pan  of  hot  fat,  fry  it  quick,  and  have  a  slice 
ready  to  take  it  out  the  moment  it  is  crisp  (in  another  moment 
it  will  be  spoiled) ;  put  it  on  a  sieve,  or  coarse  cloth,  before 
the  fire  to  drain. 

Crisp  Parsley.— (No.  318.) 

Pick  and  wash  young  parsley,  shake  it  in  a  dry  cloth  to 
drain  the  water  from  it ;  spread  it  on  a  sheet  of  clean  paper 
in  a  Dutch  oven  before  the  fire,  and  turn  it  frequently  until 
it  is  quite  crisp.  This  is  a  much  more  easy  way  of  preparing 
it  than  frying  it,  which  is  not  seldom  ill  done. 

Obs.  A  very  pretty  garnish  for  lamb  chops,  fish,  &c. 

Fried  Bread  Sippets.— (No.  319.) 

Cut  a  slice  of  bread  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick ; 
divide  it  with  a  sharp  knife  into  pieces  two  inches  square ; 
shape  these  into  triangles  or  crosses ;  put  some  very  clean 
fat  into  an  iron  frying-pan :  when  it  is  hot,  put  in  the  sippets, 
and  fry  them  a  delicate  light  brown ;  take  them  up  with  a 
fish  slice,  and  drain  them  well  from  fat,  turning  them  occa- 
sionally ;  this  will  take  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Keep  the  pan 
at  such  a  distance  from  the  fire  that  the  fat  may  be  hot  enough 
to  brown  without  burning  the  bread ;  this  is  a  requisite  pre- 
caution in  frying  delicate  thin  things. 

Obs.  These  are  a  pretty  garnish,  and  very  welcome  ac- 
companiment and  improvement  to  the  finest  made  dishes : 
they  may  also  be  sent  up  with  pease  and  other  soups ;  but 
when  intended  for  soups,  the  bread  must  be  cut  into  bits, 
about  half  an  inch  square. 

N.B.  If  these  are  not  done  very  delicately  clean  and  dry, 
they  are  uneatable. 

Fried  Bread-crumbs.— (No.  320.) 

Rub  bread  (which  has  been  baked  two  days)  through  a  wire 
sieve,  or  colander;  or  you  may  rub  them  in  a  cloth  till  they 
are  as  fine  as  if  they  had  been  grated  and  sifted ;  put  them  into 
a  stew-pan,  with  a  couple  of  ounces  of  butter ;  place  it  over  a 
moderate  fire,  and  stir  them  about  with  a  wooden  spoon  till 
they  are  the  colour  of  a  guinea ;  spread  them  on  a  sieve,  and 
let  them  stand  ten  minutes  to  drain,  turning  them  frequently. 

Obs.  Fried  crumbs  are  sent  up  with  roasted  sweetbreads, 
or  larks,  pheasants,  partridges,  woodcocks,  and  grouse,  or 
moor  game ;  especially  if  they  have  been  kept  long  enough. 


246  GRAVIES    AND    SAUCES. 

Bread  Sauce.— (No.  321.) 

Put  a  small  tea-cupful  of  bread-crumbs  into  a  stew-pan, 
pour  on  it  as  much  milk  as  it  will  soak  up,  and  a  little  more ; 
or,  instead  of  the  milk,  take  the  giblets,  head,  neck,  and  legs, 
&c.  of  the  poultry,  &c.  and  stew  them,  and  moisten  the 
bread  with  this  liquor ;  put  it  on  the  fire  with  a  middling- 
sized  onion,  and  a  dozen  berries  of  pepper  or  allspice,  or  a 
little  mace ;  let  it  boil,  then  stir  it  well,  and  let  it  simmer  till 
it  is  quite  stiff,  and  then  put  to  it  about  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  cream  or  melted  butter,  or  a  little  good  broth ;  take  out 
the  onion  and  pepper,  and  it  is  ready. 

Obs.  This  is  an  excellent  accompaniment  to  game  and 
poultry,  &c.,  and  a  good  vehicle  for  receiving  various  flavours 
from  the  Magazine  of  Taste  (No.  462). 

Rice  Sauce.— (No.  321*.) 

Steep  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  in  a  pint  of  milk,  with 
onion,  pepper,  &c.  as  in  the  last  receipt ;  when  the  rice  is 
quite  tender  (take  out  the  spice),  rub  it  through  a  sieve  into 
a  clean  stew-pan :  if  too  thick,  put  a  little  milk  or  cream  to  it. 

Ohs.  This  is  a  very  delicate  white  sauce ;  and  at  elegant 
tables  is  frequently  served  instead  of  bread  sauce. 

Browning, — (No.  322.) 

Is  a  convenient  article  to  colour  those  soups  or  sauces  of 
which  it  is  supposed  their  deep  brown  complexion  denotes 
the  strength  and  savouriness  of  the  composition. 

Burned  sugar  is  also  a  favourite  ingredient  with  the 
brewers,  who  use  it  under  the  name  of  "  essentia  bina"  to 
colour  their  beer:  it  is  also  employed  by  the  brandy-makers, 
in  considerable  quantity,  to  colour  brandy ;  to  which,  besides 
enriching  its  complexion,  it  gives  that  sweetish  taste,  and 
fulness  in  the  mouth,  which  custom  has  taught  brandy 
drinkers  to  admire,  and  prefer  to  the  finest  Cognac  in  its 
genuine  state. 

When  employed  for  culinary  purposes,  this  is  sometimes 
made  with  strong  gravy,  or  walnut  catchup.  Those  who 
like  a  gout  of  acid  may  add  a  little  walnut  pickle. 

It  will  hardly  be  told  from  what  is  commonly  called 
rt  genuine  Japanese  soy"*  (for  which  it  is  a  very  good  substi- 
tute). Burned  treacle  or  sugar,  the  peels  of  walnut,  Cayenne 

*  "  By  the  best  accounts  I  can  find,  soy  is  a  preparation  from  the  seeds  of  a  spe- 
cies of  the  Dolichos,  prepared  by  a  fermentation  of  the  farina  of  this  seed  in  a  strong 
lixivium  of  common  salt." — CULLKN'S  Mat.  Med.  vol.  i.  p.  430. 


GRAVIES    AND    SAUCES.  247 

pepper,  or  capsicums,  or  Chilies,  vinegar,  garlic,  and  pickled 
herrings  (especially  the  Dutch),  Sardinias,  or  sprats,  appear 
to  be  the  bases  of  almost  all  the  sauces  which  now  (to  use  the 
maker's  phrase)  stand  unrivalled. 

Although  indefatigable  research  and  experiment  have  put 
us  in  possession  of  these  compositions,  it  would  not  be  quite 
fair  to  enrich  the  cook  at  the  expense  of  the  oilman,  &c. ;  we 
hope  we  have  said  enough  on  these  subjects  to  satisfy  "the 
rational  epicure." 

Put  half  a  pound  of  pounded  lump-sugar,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  water,  into  a  clean  iron  saucepan,  set  it  over  a 
slow  fire,  and  keep  stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  till  it 
becomes  a  bright  brown  colour,  and  begins  to  smoke ;  then 
add  to  it  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  dilute  it  by  degrees  with  water, 
till  it  is  the  thickness  of  soy ;  let  it  boil,  take  off  the  scum, 
and  strain  the  liquor  into  bottles,  which  must  be  well  stopped: 
if  you  have  not  any  of  this  by  you,  and  you  wish  to  darken 
the  colour  of  your  sauces,  pound  a  tea-spoonful  of  lump- 
sugar,  and  put  it  into  an  iron  spoon,  with  as  much  water  as 
will  dissolve  it ;  hold  it  over  a  quick  fire  till  it  becomes  of  a 
very  dark  brown  colour ;  mix  it  with  the  soup,  &c.  while  it 
is  hot. 

Obs.  Most  of  the  preparations  under  this  title  are  a  medley 
of  burned  butter,  spices,  catchup,  wine,  &c.  We  recommend 
the  rational  epicure  to  be  content  with  the  natural  colour  of 
soups  and  sauces,  which,  to  a  well-educated  palate,  are  much 
more  agreeable,  without  any  of  these  empyreumatic  addi- 
tions; however  they  may  please  the  eye,  they  plague  the 
stomach  most  grievously;  so  "open  your  mouth  and  shut 
your  eyes." 

For  the  sake  of  producing  a  pretty  colour,  "cheese," 
*'  Cayenne"  (No.  404),  "essence  of  anchovy"  (No.  433),  &c. 
are  frequently  adulterated  with  a  colouring  matter  contain- 
ing red  lead ! !  See  ACCUM  on  the  Adulteration  of  Food, 
2d  edit.  12mo.  1820. 

A  scientific  "  homme  de  bouche  de  France1"  observes  :  "  The 
generality  of  cooks  calcine  bones,  till  they  are  as  black  as  a 
coal,  and  throw  them  hissing  hot  into  the  stew-pan,  to  give  a 
brown  colour  to  their  broths.  These  ingredients,  under  the 
appearance  of  a  nourishing  gravy,  envelope  our  food  with  sti- 
mulating acid  and  corrosive  poison. 

"  Roux,  or  thickening  (No.  257),  if  not  made  very  carefully, 
produces  exactly  the  same  effect ;  and  the  juices  of  beef  or 
veal,  burned  over  a  hot  fire,  to  give  a  rich  colour  to  soup  or 
sauces,  grievously  offend  the  stomach,  and  create  the  most 
distressing  indigestions. 


248  GRAVIES    AND    SAUCES. 

"  The  judicious  cook  will  refuse  the  help  of  these  incen- 
diary articles,  which  ignorance  or  quackery* only  employ: 
not  only  at  the  expense  of  the  credit  of  the  cook,  but  the 
health  of  her  employers." 

N.B.  The  best  browning  is  good  home-made  glaze  (No. 
252),  mushroom  catchup  (No.  439),  or  claret,  or  port  wine. 
See  also  No.  257;  or  cut  meat  into  slices,  and  broil  them 
brown,  and  then  stew  them. 

Gravy  for  roast  Meat.— (No.  326.) 

Most  joints  will  afford  sufficient  trimmings,  &c.  to  make 
half  a  pint  of  plain  gravy,  which  you  may  colour  with  a  few 
drops  of  No.  322 :  for  those  that  do  not,  about  half  an  hour 
before  you  think  the  meat  will  be  done,  mix  a  salt-spoonful 
of  salt,  with  a  full  quarter  pint  of  boiling  water ;  drop  this  by 
degrees  on  the  brown  parts  of  the  joint ;  set  a  dish  under  to 
catch  it  (the  meat  will  soon  brown  again) ;  set  it  by ;  as  it 
cools,  the  fat  will  float  on  the  surface ;  when  the  meat  is 
ready,  carefully  remove  the  fat,  and  warm  up  the  gravy,  and 
pour  it  into  the  dish. 

The  common  method  is,  when  the  meat  is  in  the  dish  you 
intend  to  send  it  up  in,  to  mix  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  in  a 
quarter  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  to  drop  some  of  this  over 
the  corners  and  underside  of  the  meat,  and  to  pour  the  rest 
through  the  hole  the  spit  came  out  of:  some  pierce  the  infe- 
rior parts  of  the  joints  with  a  sharp  skewer. 

The  following  receipt  was  given  us  by  a  very  good  cook : 
You  may  make  good  browning  for  roast  meat  and  poultry, 
by  saving  the  brown  bits  of  roast  meat  or  broiled ;  cut  them 
small,  put  them  into  a  basin,  cover  them  with  boiling  water, 
and  put  them  away  till  next  day ;  then  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan, let  it  boil  two  or  three  minutes,  strain  it  through  a  sieve 
into  a  basin,  and  put  it  away  for  use.  When  you  want  gravy 
for  roast  meat,  put  two  table-spoonfuls  into  half  a  pint  of 
boiling  water  with  a  little  salt :  if  for  roasted  veal,  put  three 
table-spoonfuls  into  half  a  pint  of  thin  melted  butter. 

N.B.  The  gravy  which  comes  down  in  the  dish,  the  cook 
(if  she  is  a  good  housewife)  will  preserve  to  enrich  hashes 
or  little  made  dishes,  &c. 

Obs.  Some  culinary  professors,  who  think  nothing  can 
be  excellent  that  is  not  extravagant,  call  this  "  Scots'  gravy ;" 
not,  I  believe,  intending  it,  as  it  certainly  is,  a  compliment  to 
the  laudable  and  rational  frugality  of  that  intelligent  and 
sober-minded  people. 

N.B.  This  gravy  should  be  brought  to  table  in  a  sauce- 


GRAVIES    AND   SAUCES.  249 

boat ;  preserve  the  intrinsic  gravy  which  flows  from  the  meat 
in  the  Argyll* 

Gravy  for  boiled  Meat, — (No.  327.) 

May  be  made  with  parings  and  trimmings ;  or  pour  from  a 
quarter  to  half  a  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  xvas 
boiled,  into  the  dish  with  it,  and  pierce  the  inferior  part  of 
the  joint  with  a  sharp  skewer. 

Wow  wow  Sauce  for  stewed  or  bouilli  Beef. — (No.  328.) 

Chop  some  parsley-leaves  very  fine ;  quarter  two  or 
three  pickled  cucumbers,  or  walnuts,  and  divide  them  into 
small  squares,  and  set  them  by  ready :  put  into  a  saucepan  a 
bit  of  butter  as  big  as  an  egg ;  when  it  is  melted,  stir  to  it  a 
table-spoonful  of  fine  flour,  and  about  half  a  pint  of  the  broth 
in  which  the  beef  was  boiled ;  add  a  table-spoonful  of  vine- 
gar, the  like  quantity  of  mushroom  catchup,  or  port  Wine,  or 
both,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard;  let  it  simmer 
together  till  it  is  as  thick  as  you  wish  it ;  put  in  the  parsley 
and  pickles  to  get  warm,  and  pour  it  over  the  beef ;  or  rather 
send  it  up  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

Obs.  If  you  think  the  above  not  sufficiently  piquante,  add 
to  it  some  capers,  or  a  minced  eschalot,  or  one  or  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  eschalot  wine  (No.  402),  or  essence  of  anchovy, 
or  basil  (No.  397),  elder,  or  tarragon  (No.  396),  or  horse- 
radish (No.  399*),  or  burnet  vinegar ;  or  strew  over  the  meat 
carrots  and  turnips  cut  into  dice,  minced  capers,  walnuts, 
red  cabbage,  pickled  cucumbers,  or  French  beans,  &c. 

Beef-gravy  Sauce— (No.  329),  or  Brown  Sauce  for  Ragout, 
Game,  Poultry,  Fish,  <$*c. 

If  you  want  gravy  immediately,  see  No.  307,  or  No.  252. 
If  you  have  time  enough,  furnish  a  thick  and  well-tinned 
stew-pan  with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  ham  or  bacon,  or  an  ounce 
of  butter,  and  a  middling-sized  onion ;  on  this  lay  a  pound  of 
nice,  juicy  gravy  beef,(as  the  object  in  making  gravy  is  to 
extract  the  nutritious  succulence  of  the  meat,  it  must  be 
beaten  to  comminute  the  containing  vessels,  and  scored  to 
augment  the  surface  to  the  action  of  the  water) ;  cover  the 
stew-pan,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire ;  when  the  meat  begins  ta 
brown,  turn  it  about,  and  let  it  get  slightly  browned  (but  take 
care  it  is  not  at  all  burned) :  then  pour  in  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  boiling  water;  set  the  pan  on  the  fire ;  when  it  boils,  care- 
fully catch  the  scum,  and  then  put  in  a  crust  of  bread  toasted 


250  GRAVIES    AND   SAUCES. 

brown  (don't  burn  it),  a  sprig  of  winter  savoury,  or  lemon- 
thyme  and  parsley,  a  roll  of  thin-cut  lemon-peel,  a  dozen  ber- 
ries of  allspice,  and  a  dozen  of  black  pepper ;  cover  the  stew- 
pan  close,  let  it  stew  very  gently  for  about  two  hours,  then 
strain  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin. 

If  you  wish  to  thicken  it,  set  a  clean  stew-pan  over  a  slow 
fire,  with  about  an  ounce  of  butter  in  it ;  when  it  is  melted, 
dredge  to  it  (by  degrees)  as  much  flour  as  will  dry  it  up, 
stirring  them  well  together ;  when  thoroughly  mixed,  pour 
in  a  little  of  the  gravy ;  stir  it  well  together,  and  add  the 
remainder  by  degrees;  set  it  over  the  fire,  let  it  simmer 
gently  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  longer,  and  skim  off  the 
fat,  &c.  as  it  rises ;  when  it  is  about  as  thick  as  cream, 
squeeze  it  through  a  tamis,  or  fine  sieve,  and  you  will  have  a 
fine,  rich  brown  sauce,  at  a  very  moderate  expense,  and  with- 
out much  trouble. 

Obs.  If  you  wish  to  make  it  still  more  relishing,  if  it  is 
for  poultry,  you  may  pound  the  liver  with  a  bit  of  butter,  rub 
it  through  a  sieve,  and  stir  it  into  the  sauce  when  you  put  in 
the  thickening. 

For  a  ragout  or  game,  add  at  the  same  time  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  mushroom  catchup,  or  No.  343,*  or  No.  429,  or  a  few 
drops  of  422,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  roll  of  the  rind 
pared  thin,  a  table-spoonful  of  port,  or  other  wine  (claret  is 
best),  and  a  few  grains  of  Cayenne  pepper ;  or  use  double 
the  quantity  of  meat ;  or  add  a  bit  of  glaze,  or  portable  soup 
(No.  252),  to  it. 

You  may  vary  the  flavour,  by  sometimes  adding  a  little 
basil,  or  burnet  wine  (No.  397),  tarragon  vinegar  (No.  396), 
or  a  wine-glass  of  quintessence  of  mushrooms  (No.  450). 

See  the  Magazine  of  Taste  (No.  462). 

N.B.  This  is  an  excellent  gravy;  and  at  a  large  dinner,  a 
pint  of  it  should  be  placed  at  each  end  of  the  table;  you  may 
make  it  equal  to  the  most  costly  consommg  of  the  Parisian 
kitchen. 

Those  families  who  are  frequently  in  want  of  gravy> 
sauces,  &c.  (without  plenty  of  which  no  cook  can  support  the 
credit  of  her  kitchen),  should  keep  a  stock  of  portable  soup 
or  glaze  (No.  252) :  this  will  make  gravy  immediately. 

*  One  of"  Us  bonnes  hommes  de  louche  de  France"  orders  the  following  addition 
for  game  gravy : — "  For  a  pint,  par-roast  a  partridge  or  a  pigeon  ;  cut  off  the  meat 
of.it,  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  and  put  it  into  the  stew-pan  when  you  thicken  the  sauce.'' 
We  do  not  recommend  either  soup  or  sauce  to  be  thickened,  because  it  requires  (to 
give  it  the  same  quickness  on  the  palate  it  had  before  it  was  thickened)  double  the 
quantity  of  piquante  materials ;  which  are  thus  smuggled  down  the  red  lane,  with- 
out affording  any  amusement  to  the  mouth,  and  at  the  risk  of  highly  offending  the 
Ktomacli. 


GRAVIES   AND   SAUCES.  251 

Game  Gravy.— (No.  337.) 
See  Obs.  to  No.  329. 

Orange-gravy  Sauce,  for  wild  Ducks,  Woodcocks,  Snipes, 
Widgeon,  and  Teal,  be.— (No.  338.) 

Set  on  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  veal  gravy  (No.  192), 
•add  to  it  half  a  dozen  leaves  of  basil,  a  small  onion,  and  a 
roll  of  orange  or  lemon-peel,  and  let  it  boil  up  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  strain  it  off.  Put  to  the  clear  gravy  the  juice 
of  a  Seville  orange,  or  lemon,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  the 
same  of  pepper,  and  a  glass  of  red  wine ;  send  it  up  hot. 
Eschalot  and  Cayenne  may  be  added. 

Obs.— This  is  an  excellent  sauce  for  all  kinds  of  wild 
water-fowl. 

The  common  way  of  gashing  the  breast  and  squeezing  in 
an  orange,  cools  and  hardens  the  flesh,  and  compels  every 
one  to  eat  duck  that  way:  some  people  like  wild  fowl  very 
little  done,  and  without  any  sauce. 

Gravies  should  always  be  sent  up  in  a  covered  boat :  they 
keep  hot  longer ;  and  it  leaves  it  to  the  choice  of  the  com- 
pany to  partake  of  them  or  not, 

Bonne  Bouche  for  Goose,  Duck,  or  roast  Pork. — (No.  341.) 

Mix  a  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard,  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  few  grains  of  Cayenne,  in  a  large  wine-glassful  of 
claret  or  port  wine  ;*  pour  it  into  the  goose  by  a  slit  in  the 
apron  just  before  serving  up  ;t  or,  as  all  the  company  may 
not  like  it,  stir  it  into  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  thick  melted 
butter,  or  thickened  gravy,  and  send  it  up  in  a  boat.  See 
also  Sage  and  Onion  Sauce,  No.  300.  Or, 

A  favourite  relish  for  roast  pork  or  geese,  &c.  is,  two 
ounces  of  leaves  of  green  sage,  an  ounce  of  fresh  lemon-peel 
pared  thin,  same  of  salt,  minced  eschalot,  and  half  a  drachm 
of  Cayenne  pepper,  ditto  of  citric  acid,  steeped  for  a  fortnight 
in  a  pint  of  claret ;  shake  it  up  well  every  day;  let  it  stand  a 
day  to  settle,  and  decant  the  clear  liquor ;  bottle  it,  and  cork 
it  close ;  a  table-spoonful  or  more  in  a  quarter  pint  of  gravy, 
or  melted  butter. 

*  To  this  some  add  a  table-spoonftil  of  mushroom  catchup  (No.  439),  and  instead 
of  the  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  a  tea-spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy  (No.  433).  If  the 
above  articles  are  rubbed  together  in  a  mortar,  and  put  into  a  close-stopped  bottle, 
they  will  keep  for  some  time. 

t  Thus  far  the  above  is  from  Dr.  HUNTER'S  "  Culina"  who  says  it  is  a  secret 
worth  knowing :  we  agree  with  him,  and  so  tell  it  here,  with  a  little  addition,  whicli 
we  think  venders  it  a  still  more  gratifying  communication. 


252  GRAVIES  AND   SAUCES. 

Robert  Sauce  for  roast  Pork,  or  Geese,  4*c.~ (No.  342.) 

Put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  pint  stew-pan :  when  it  is 
melted,  add  to  it  half  an  ounce  of  onion  minced  very  fine ; 
turn  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  till  it  takes  a  light  brown 
colour;  then  stir  in  a  table-spoonful  of  flour,  a  table-spoonful 
of  mushroom  catchup  (with  or  without  the  like  quantity  of 
port  wine),  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  and  a  quarter  of  a 
tea-spoonful  of  pepper,  the  same  of  salt;  give  them  a  boil; 
then  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  mustard,  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  or  one  or  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vinegar  or  basil  (No. 
397),  or  tarragon  (No.  396),  or  burnet  vinegar  (No.  399). 

Obs. — The  French  call  this  "SAUCE  ROBERT"  (from  the 
name  of  the  cook  who  invented  it),  and  are  very  fond  of  it 
with  many  things,  which  MARY  SMITH,  in  the  "Complete 
Housekeeper,"  8vo.  1772,  p.  105,  translates  ROE-BOAT-SAUCE. 
See  06s.  to  No.  529. 

Turtle  Sauce.— (No.  343.) 

Put  into  your  stew-pan  a  pint  of  beef  gravy  thickened  (No. 
329) ;  add  to  this  some  of  the  following — essence  of  turtle, 
(No.  343*),  or  a  wine-glassful  of  Madeira,  the  juice  and  peel 
of  half  a  lemon,  a  few  leaves  of  basil,*  an  eschalot  quartered, 
a  few  grains  of  Cayenne  pepper,  or  curry  powder,  and  a  little 
essence  of  anchovy ;  let  them  simmer  together  for  five  mi- 
nutes, and  strain  through  a  tamis :  you  may  introduce  a  dozen 
turtle  forcemeat  balls.  See  receipt,  No.  380,  &c. 

Obs. — This  is  the  sauce  for  boiled  or  hashed  calf's  head, 
stewed  veal,  or  any  dish  you  dress  turtle  fashion. 

The  far-fetched  and  dear-bought  turtle  owes  its  high  rank 
on  the  list  of  savoury  bonne  bouches  to  the  relishing  and 
piquante  sauce  that  is  made  for  it ;  without,  it  would  be  as 
insipid  as  any  other  fish  is  without  sauce.  See  Obs.  to  No.  493. 

Essence  of  Turtle.— (No.  343*.) 

Essence  of  anchovy  (No.  433),  one  wine-glassful. 

Eschalot  wine  (No.  402),  one  and  a  half  ditto. 

Basil  wine  (No.  397),  four  ditto. 

Mushroom  catchup  (No.  439),  two  ditto. 

Concrete  lemon  acid,  one  drachm,  or  some  artificial  lemon- 
juice  (No.  407*). 

Lemon-peel,  very  thinly  pared,  three-quarters  of  an 
ounce. 

*  See  Basil  Wine  (No.  397), 


GRAVIES   AND   SAUCES.  2oS 

Curry  powder  (No.  455),  a  quarter  of  an  ounce. 

Steep  for  a  week,  to  get  the  flavour  of  the  lemon-peel,  &c. 

Obs. — This  is  very  convenient  to  extemporaneously  turtlefy 
soup,  sauce,  or  potted  meats,  rag-outs,  savoury  patties,  pies, 
&c.  &c, 

Wine  Sauce  for  Venison  or  Hare.— (No.  344.) 

A  quarter  of  a  pint  of  claret  or  port  wine,  the  same  quantity 
of  plain,  unflavoured  mutton  gravy  (No.  347),  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  currant  jelly :  let  it  just  boil  up,  and  send  it  to 
table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Sharp  Sauce  for  Venison.— (No.  345.) 

Put  into  a  silver,  or  very  clean  and  well-tinned  saucepan, 
half  a  pint  of  the  best  white  wine  vinegar,  and  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  pounded :  set  it  over  the  fire,  and  let 
it  simmer  gently ;  skim  it  carefully ;  pour  it  through  a  tamis 
or  fine  sieve,  and  send  it  up  in  a  basin. 

Obs. — Some  people  like  this  better  than  the  sweet  wine 
sauces. 

Sweet  Sauce  for  Venison  or  Hare. — (No.  346.) 

Put  some  currant-jelly  into  a  stew-pan ;  when  it  is  melted, 
pour  it  into  a  sauce-boat. 

N.B.  Many  send  it  to  table  without  melting.  To  make 
currant-jelly,  see  No.  479*. 

This  is  a  more  salubrious  relish  than  either  spice  or  salt, 
when  the  palate  protests  against  animal  food  unless  its 
flavour  be  masked.  Currant-jelly  is  a  good  accompaniment 
to  roasted  or  hashed  meats. 

Mutton  Gravy  for  Venison  or  Hare. — (No.  347.) 

The  best  gravy  for  venison  is  that  made  with  the  trimmings 
of  the  joint :  if  this  is  all  used,  and  you  have  no  undressed 
venison,  cut  a  scrag  of  mutton  in  pieces ;  broil  it  a  little 
brown ;  then  put  it  into  a  clean  stew-pan,  with  a  quart  of 
boiling  water ;  cover  it  close,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  an 
hour :  now  uncover  the  stew-pan,  and  let  it  reduce  to  three- 
quarters  of  a  pint ;  pour  it  through  a  hair-sieve ;  take  the 
fat  off,  and  send  it  up  in  a  boat.  It  is  only  to  be  seasoned 
with  a  little  salt,  that  it  may  not  overpower  the  natural 
flavour  of  the  meat.  You  may  colour  it  with  a,  very  little 
of  No.  322. 

Y 


254  GBAVIES   AND   SAUCES. 

N.B.  Some  prefer  the  unseasoned  beef  gravy,  No.  186, 
which  you  may  make  in  five  minutes  with  No.  252. 

THE  QUEEN'S  GRAVY  OF  MUTTON,  as  made  by  her  Majesty's 
"Escuyer  de  Cuisine,11  Monsieur  La  Montagne.  "Roast  a 
juicy  leg  of  mutton  three-quarters ;  then  gash  it  in  several 
places,  and  press  out  the  juice  by  a  screw-press." — From 
SIR  KENELM  DIGBY'S  Cookery,  18mo.  London,  1669. 

Curry  Sauce,— (No.  348.) 

Is  made  by  stirring  a  sufficient  quantity  of  curry  stuff, 
(No.  455)  into  gravy  or  melted  butter,  or  onion  sauce  (Nos. 
297,  298),  or  onion  gravy  (No.  299,  or  No.  339). 

The  compositions  of  curry  powder,  and  the  palates  of 
those  who  eat  it,  vary  so  much,  that  we  cannot  recom- 
mend any  specific  quantity.  The  cook  must  add  it  by 
degrees,  tasting  as  she  proceeds,  and  take  care  not  to  put  in 
too  much. 

06s.— The  curry  powder  (No.  455)  approximates  more 
nearly  to  the  best  Indian  curry  stuff,  and  is  an  agreeable  and 
well-blended  mixture  of  this  class  of  aromatics. 

N.B.  To  dress  curries,  see  No.  497. 

Essence  of  Ham.— (No.  351.) 

Essence  of  ham  and  of  beef  may  be  purchased  at  the 
eating-houses  which  cut  up  those  joints ;  the  former  for  half 
a  crown  or  three  shillings  a  quart :  it  is  therefore  a  most 
economical  relish  for  made-dishes,  and  to  give  piquance  to 
sauces,  &c. 

Grill  Sauce.— (No.  355.) 

To  half  a  pint  of  gravy  (No.  329),  add  an  ounce  of  freslt 
butter,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  flour,  previously  well  rubbed 
together,  the  same  of  mushroom  or  walnut  catchup,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice,  one  of  made  mustard,  one  of 
minced  capers,  half  a  one  of  black  pepper,  a  quarter  of  a 
rind  of  a  lemon  grated  very  thin,  a  tea-spoonful  of  essence 
of  anchovies,  and  a  little  eschalot  wine  (No.  402),  or  a  very 
small  piece  of  minced  eschalot,  and  a  little  Chili  vinegar 
(No.  405),  or  a  few  grains  of  Cayenne ;  simmer  together  for 
a  few  minutes ;  pour  a  little  of  it  over  the  grill,  and  send 
up  the  rest  in  a  sauce-tureen.  For  anchovy  toasts,  No.  573, 
or  No.  538.  Or, 


GRAVIES  AND   SAUCES.  255 

Sauce  a  la  Tartare. 

Pound  in  a  mortar  three  hard  yelks  of  eggs ;  put  them 
into  a  basin,  and  add  half  a  table-spoonful  of  made  mus* 
tard,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  pour  to  it  by  degrees, 
stirring  it  fast  all  the  while,  about  two  wine-glassfuls  of 
salad  oil ;  stir  it  together  till  it  comes  to  a  good  thickness. 

N.B.  A  little  tarragon  or  chervil  minced  very  fine,  and  a 
little  vinegar,  may  be  added;  or  some  of  the  ingredients, 
enumerated  in  No.  372. 

Obs. — This  from  the  French  artist  who  wrote  the  receipt 
for  dressing  a  turtle. 

Mem. — These  arepiquante  relishes  for  anchovy  toasts  (No. 
573,  or  No.  538) ;  for  BROILED  DEVILS,  &c.  "  Writable  sauce 
d'enfer"  see  No.  538 ;  and  a  refreshing  excitement  for  those 
idle  palates,  who  are  as  incessantly  mumbling  out  "  piquante, 
piquante,"  as  parrots  do  "  pretty  Poll,  pretty  Poll." 

"  For  palates  grown  callous  almost  to  disease, 
Who  peppers  the  highest  is  surest  to  please." 

GOLDSMITH. 

Sauce  for  Steaks,  or  Chops,  Cutlets,  &c.— (No.  356.    See  also 
No.  331.) 

Take  your  chops  out  of  the  frying-pan ;  for  a  pound  of 
meat  keep  a  table-spoonful  of  the  fat  in  the  pan,  or  put  in 
about  an  ounce  of  butter ;  put  to  it  as  much  flour  as  will 
make  it  a  paste ;  rub  it  well  together  over  the  fire  till  they 
are  a  little  brown ;  then  add  as  much  boiling  water  as  will 
reduce  it  to  the  thickness  of  good  cream,  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  mushroom  or  walnut  catchup,  or  pickle,  or  browning  (No. 
322,  or  No.  449) ;  let  it  boil  together  a  few  minutes,  and  pour 
it  through  a  sieve  to  the  steaks,  &c. 

Obs. — To  the  above  is  sometimes  added  a  sliced  onion, 
or  a  minced  eschalot,  with  a  table- spoonful  of  port  wine, 
or  a  little  eschalot  wine  (Nos.  402,  423,  or  135).  Garnish 
with  finely-scraped  horseradish,  or  pickled  walnuts,  gherkins, 
&c.  Some  beef-eaters  like  chopped  eschalots  in  one  saucer, 
and  horseradish  grated  in  vinegar,  in  another.  Broiled 
mushrooms  are  favourite  relishes  to  beef-steaks. 

Sauce  Piquante  for  cold  Meat,  Game,  Poultry,  Fish,  fyc.  or 
Salads.— (No.  359.  See  also  No.  372,  and  Cucumber 
Vinegar,  Nos.  399  and  453.) 

Pound  in  a  mortar  the  yelks  of  two  eggs  that  have  been 
boiled  hard  (No.  547),  with  a  mustard-spoonful  of  made 


1 


256  GRAVIES  AND   SAUCES. 

mustard,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt;  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  salad  oil ;  mix  well,  and  then  add  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  vinegar ;  rub  it  up  well  till  it  is  quite  smooth,  and  pass  it 
through  a  tamis  or  sieve. 

06s. — To  the  above,  some  add  an  anchovy,  or  a  table- 
spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup,  or  walnut  pickle,  some  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  grated  horseradish,  or  young  onions  minced, 
or  burnet  (No.  399),  horseradish  (No.  399*,  or  No.  402),  or 
tarragon,  or  elder  vinegar  (No.  396),  &c.,  and  Cayenne  or 
minced  pickles,  capers,  &c.  This  is  apiquante  relish  for 
lobsters,  crabs,  cold  fish,  &c. 

Sauce  for  Hashes  of  Mutton  or  Beef.— (No.  360.     See  also 
Nos.  451,  485,  and  to  make  Plain  Hash,  No.  486.) 

Unless  you  are  quite  sure  you  perfectly  understand  the 
palate  of  those  you  are  working  for,  show  those  who  are  to 
eat  the  hash  this  receipt,  and  beg  of  them  to  direct  you  how 
they  wish  it  seasoned. 

Half  the  number  of  the  ingredients  enumerated  will  be 
more  than  enough :  but  as  it  is  a  receipt  so  often  wanted  we 
have  given  variety.  See  also  No.  486. 

To  prepare  the  meat,  see  No.  484. 

Chop  the  bones  and  fragments  of  the  joint,  &c.,  and 
put  them  into  a  stew-pan ;  cover  them  with  boiling 
water,  six  berries  of  black  pepper,  the  same  of  allspice,  a 
small  bundle  of  parsley,  half  a  head  of  celery  cut  in  pieces, 
and  a  small  sprig  of  savoury,  or  lemon-thyme,  or  sweet 
marjoram;  cover  up,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  half 
an  hour. 

Slice  half  an  ounce  of  onion,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan 
with  an  ounce  of  butter ;  fry  it  over  a  sharp  fire  for  about  a 
couple  of  minutes,  till  it  takes  a  little  colour ;  then  stir  in 
as  much  flour  as  will  make  it  a  stiff  paste,  and  by  degrees 
mix  with  it  the  gravy  you  have  made  from  the  bones,  &c. ; 
let  it  boil  very  gently  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  till  it 
is  the  consistence  of  cream;  strain  it  through  a  tamis  or  sieve 
into  a  basin ;  put  it  back  into  the  stew-pan :  to  season  it, 
see  No.  451,  or  cut  in  a  few  pickled  onions,  or  walnuts, 
or  a  couple  of  gherkins,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom 
catchup,  or  walnut  or  other  pickle  liquor;  or  some  capers, 
and  caper  liquor;  or  a  table-spoonful  of  ale;  or  a  little 
eschalot,  or  tarragon  vinegar ;  cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish 
with  sippets  of  bread  (that  they  may  become  savoury  reser- 
voirs of  gravy),  which  some  toast  and  cut  into  triangles. 
You  may  garnish  it  with  fried  bread  sippets  (No.  319)» 


GRAVIES    AND   SAUCES.  257 

NB.  To  hash  meat  in  perfection,  it  should  be  laid  in 
this  gravy  only  just  long  enough  to  get  properly  warm 
through. 

Obs.  If  any  of  the  gravy  that  was  sent  up  with,  or  ran 
from  the  joint  when  it  was  roasted,  be  left,  it  will  be  a  great 
improvement  to  the  hash. 

If  you  wish  to  make  mock  venison,  instead  of  the  onion, 
put  in  two  or  three  cloves,  a  table-spoonful  of  currant  jelly, 
and  the  same  quantity  of  claret  or  port  wine,  instead  of  the 
catchup. 

You  may  make  a  curry  hash  by  adding  some  of  No.  455. 

N.B.  A  pint  of  No.  329  is  an  excellent  gravy  to  warm  up 
either  meat  or  poultry. 

Sauce  for  hashed  or  minced  Veal — (No.  361.     See  No.  511.) 

Take  the  bones  of  cold  roast  or  boiled  veal,  dredge  them 
well  with  flour,  and  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  broth  or  water,  a  small  onion,  a  little  grated  or  finely- 
minced  lemon-peel,  or  the  peel  of  a  quarter  of  a  small  lemon, 
pared  as  thin  as  possible,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
blade  of  pounded  mace ;  to  thicken  it,  rub  a  table-spoonful  of 
flour  into  half  an  ounce  of  butter ;  stir  it  into  the  broth,  and 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  very  gently  for  about  half  an 
hour ;  strain  through  a  tamis  or  sieve,  and  it  is  ready  to  put 
to  the  veal  to  warm  up;  which  is  to  be  done  by  placing  the 
stew-pan  by  the  side  of  the  fire.  Squeeze  in  half  a  lemon, 
and  cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  toasted  bread  sippets 
cut  into  triangles,  and  garnish  the  dish  with  slices  of  ham  or 
bacon.  See  Nos.  526  and  527. 

Bechamel,  by  English  Cooks  commonly  called  While  Sauce. 
(No.  364.) 

Cut  in  square  pieces,  half  an  inch  thick,  two  pounds  of  lean 
veal,  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham ;  melt  in  a  stew-pan  two  ounces 
of  butter ;  when  melted,  let  the  whole  simmer  until  it  is  ready 
to  catch  at  the  bottom  (it  requires  great  attention,  as,  if  it 
happen  to  catch  at  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan,  it  will  spoil 
the  look  of  your  sauce)  ;  then  add  to  it  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour ;  when  well  mixed,  add  to  it  three  pints  of  broth  or 
water  (pour  a  little  at  a  time,  that  the  thickening1  be  smooth) ; 
stir  it  until  it  boil ;  put  the  stew-pan  on  the  corner  of  the  stove 
to  boil  gently  for  two  hours ;  season  it  with  four  cloves,  one 
onion,  twelve  pepper-corns,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  few  mush- 
rooms and  a  fagot  made  of  parsley,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  a 
Y2 


258  GBAVIES   AND   SAUCES. 

bay-leaf.  Let  the  sauce  reduce  to  a  quart,  skim  the  fat  off, 
and  strain  it  through  a  tamis  cloth. 

To  make  a  bechamel  sauce,  add  to  a  quart  of  the  above 
a  pint  of  good  cream ;  stir  it  until  it  is  reduced  to  a  good 
thickness;  a  few  mushrooms  give  a  good  flavour  to  that 
sauce ;  strain  it  through  a  tamis  cloth. 

Obs.  The  above  was  given  us  by  a  French  artist. 

A  more  economical  Method  of  making  a  Pint  of  White  Sauce. 
(No.  364—2.) 

Put  equal  parts  of  broth  and  milk  into  a  stew-pan  with  an 
onion  and  a  blade  of  mace ;  set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil  ten 
minutes ;  have  ready  and  rub  together  on  a  plate  an  ounce  of 
flour  and  butter;  put  it  into  the  stew-pan;  stir  it  well  till  it 
boils  up ;  then  stand  it  near  the  fire  or  stove,  stirring  it  every 
now  and  then  till  it  becomes  quite  smooth;  then  strain  it 
through  a  sieve  into  a  basin ;  put  it  back  into  the  stew-pan  ; 
season  it  with  salt  and  the  juice  of  a  small  lemon  ;  beat  up  the 
yelks  of  two  eggs  well  with  about  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
milk,  strain  it  through  a  sieve  into  your  sauce,  stir  it  well 
and  keep  it  near  the  fire,  but  be  sure  and  do  not  let  it  boil,  for 
it  will  curdle. 

Obs.  A  convenient  veil  for  boiled  fowls,  &c.  whose  com- 
plexions are  not  inviting. 

Mem.  With  the  assistance  of  the  Magazine  of  Taste 
(No.  462)  you  may  give  this  sauce  a  variety  of  flavours. 

Obs.  Bechamel  implies  a  thick  white  sauce,  approaching  to 
a  batter,  and  takes  its  name  from  a  wealthy  French  Mar- 
quis, maitre  tfhotel  de  Louis  XIV.,  and  famous  for  his  patronage 
of  " les  Officiers  de  Bouche"  who  have  immortalized  him,  by 
calling  by  his  name  this  delicate  composition. 

Most  of  the  French  sauces  take  their  name  from  the  person 
whose  palate  they  first  pleased,  as  "«  la  Maintenon;"  or 
from  some  famous  cook  who  invented  them,  as  "Sauce 
Robert,"  "  a  la  Montizeur,"  &c. 

We  have  in  the  English  kitchen,  our  "  Argyll"  for  gravy, 
and  the  little  "  Sandwich,"  "  monumentum  cere  perennius" 


And  thus  MONTEITH 


Has,  by  one  vessel,  saved  his  name  from  death." 

KING'S  Art  of  Cookery. 

Poivrade  Sauce.— (No.  365.) 
This,  as  its  title  tells  us,  is  a  sauce  of  French  extraction. 


GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES.  259 

The  following  receipt  is  from  "La  Cuisiniere  Bourgeoise" 
page  408. 

"  Put  a  bit  of  butter  as  big  as  an  egg  into  a  stew-pan  with 
two  or  three  bits  of  onion,  carrot,  and  turnip,  cut  in  slices, 
two  eschalots,  two  cloves,  a  bay-leaf,  thyme,  and  basil ;  keep 
turning  them  in  the  pan  till  they  get  a  little  colour ;  shake  in 
some  flour,  and  add  a  glass  of  red  wine,  a  glass  of  water,  a 
spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  boil  half  an 
hour ;  skim  and  strain  it." 

Mustard  in  a  minute.— -(No.  369.) 

Mix  very  gradually,  and  rub  together  in  a  mortar,  an  ounce 
of  flour  of  mustard,  with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  milk  (cream 
is  better),  half  a  tea- spoonful  of  salt,  and  the  same  of  sugar; 
rub  them  well  together  till  quite  smooth. 

Obs.  Mustard  made  in  this  manner  is  not  at  all  bitter,  and 
is  therefore  instantly  ready  for  the  table. 

N.B.  It  has  been  said  that  flour  of  mustard  is  sometimes 
adulterated  with  common  flour,  &c.  &c. 

Mustard.— (No.  370.) 

Mix  (by  degrees,  by  rubbing  together  in  a  mortar)  the  best 
Durham  flour  of  mustard,  with  vinegar,  white  wine,  or  cold 
water,  in  which  scraped  horseradish  has  been  boiled ;  rub  it 
well  together  for  at  least  ten  minutes,  till  it  is  perfectly 
smooth;  it  will  keep  in  a  stone  jar  closely  stopped,  for  a 
fortnight :  only  put  as  much  into  the  mustard-pot  as  will  be 
used  in  a  day  or  two. 

The  ready-made  mustard  prepared  at  the  oil  shops  is 
mixed  with  about  one-fourth  part  salt :  this  is  done  to  pre- 
serve it,  if  it  is  to  be  kept  long;  otherwise,  by  all  means, 
omit  it.  The  best  way  of  eating  salt  is  in  substance. 

*#*  See  also  recipe  No.  427. 

06s.  Mustard  is  the  best  of  all  the  stimulants  that  are 
employed  to  give  energy  to  the  digestive  organs.  It  was  in 
high  favour  with  our  forefathers ;  in  the  Northumberland 
Household  Book  for  1512,  p.  18,  is  an  order  for  an  annual 
supply  of  160  gallons  of  mustard. 

Some  opulent  epicures  mix  it  with  sherry  or  Madeira 
wine,  or  distilled  or  flavoured  vinegar,  instead  of  horseradish 
water. 

The  French  flavour  their  mustard  with  Champaigne  and 
Other  wines,  or  with  vinegar  flavoured  with  capers,  anchovies, 


260  GRAVIES    AND    SAUCES. 

tarragon,  elder,  basil,  burnet,  garlic,  eschalot,  or  celery,  see 
No.  395  to  No.  402 :  warming  it  with  Cayenne,  or  the  various 
spices;  sweet,  savoury,  fine  herbs,  truffles,  catchup,  &c. 
&c.,  and  seem  to  consider  mustard  merely  as  a  vehicle  of 
flavours. 

N.B.  In  Mons.  Maille  et  Aclocque's  catalogue  of  Parisian 
"  Bono  J9ons,"  there  is  a  list  of  twenty-eight  differently  fla- 
voured mustards. 

Salt,— (No.  371.) 

Is  ("  aliorum  condimentorum  condimentum"  as  Plutarch 
calls  it,)  sauce  for  sauce. 

Common  salt  is  more  relishing  than  basket  salt ;  it  should 
be  prepared  for  the  table  by  drying  it  in  a  Dutch  oven  before 
the  fire ;  then  put  it  on  a  clean  paper,  and  roll  it  with  a  rolling 
pin ;  if  you  pound  it  in  a  mortar  till  it  is  quite  fine,  it  will  look 
as  well  as  basket  salt.  Maiden  salt  is  still  more  piquante. 

%*  Select  for  table-use  the  lumps  of  salt. 

Obs.  Your  salt-box  must  have  a  close  cover,  and  be  kept 
in  a  dry  place. 

Salad  mixture.— (No.  372.    See  also  Nos.  138*  and  453.) 

Endeavour  to  have  your  salad  herbs  as  fresh  as  possible ; 
if  you  suspect  they  are  not  "  morning  gathered,"  they  will 
be  much  refreshed  by  lying  an  hour  or  two  in  spring-water ; 
then  carefully  wash  and  pick  them,  and  trim  off  all  the  worm- 
eaten,  slimy,  cankered,  dry  leaves ;  and,  after  washing,  let 
them  remain  a  while  in  the  colander  to  drain  :  lastly,  swing 
them  gently  in  a  clean  napkin :  when  properly  picked  and 
cut,  arrange  them  in  the  salad  dish,  mix  the  sauce  in  a  soup 
plate,  and  put  it  into  an  ingredient  bottle,*  or  pour  it  down 
the  side  of  the  salad  dish,  and  don't  stir  it  up  till  the  mouths 
are  ready  for  it. 

If  the  herbs  be  young,  fresh  gathered,  trimmed  neatly,  and 
drained  dry,  and  the  sauce-maker  ponders  patiently  over  the 
following  directions,  he  cannot  fail  obtaining  the  fame  of 
being  a  very  accomplished  salad-dresser. 

Boil  a  couple  of  eggs  for  twelve  minutes,  and  put  them  in 
a  basin  of  cold  water  for  a  few  minutes ;  the  yelks  must  be 
quite  cold  and  hard,  or  they  will  not  incorporate  with  the  in- 

*  These  are  sold  at  the  glass-shops  under  the  name  of  INCORPORATORS  :  we  re- 
commend the  sauce  to  be  mixed  in  these,  and  the  company  can  then  take  it  or  leave 
it,  as  they  like. 


GRAVIES   AND   SAUCES.  261 

gradients.  Rub  them  through  a  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
and  mix  them  with  a  table-spoonful  of  water,  or  fine  double 
cream ;  then  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  oil  or  melted  butter ; 
when  these  are  well  mixed,  add,  by  degrees,  a  tea-spoonful 
of  salt,  or  powdered  lump  sugar,  and  the  same  of  made 
mustard :  when  these  are  smoothly  united,  add  very  gradu- 
ally three  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar ;  rub  it  with  the  other 
ingredients  till  thoroughly  incorporated  with  them ;  cut  up 
the  white  of  the  egg,  and  garnish  the  top  of  the  salad  with 
it.  Let  the  sauce  remain  at  the  bottom  of  the  bowl,  and  do 
not  stir  up  the  salad  till  it  is  to  be  eaten :  we  recommend 
the  eaters  to  be  mindful  of  the  duty  of  mastication,  without 
the  due  performance  of  which,  all  undressed  vegetables  are 
troublesome  company  for  the  principal  viscera,  and  some  are 
even  dangerously  indigestible. 

Boiled  Salad. 

This  is  best  compounded  of  boiled  or  baked  onions  (if 
Portugal  the  better),  some  baked  beet-root,  cauliflower,  or 
broccoli,  and  boiled  celery  and  French  beans,  or  any  of 
these  articles,  with  the  common  salad  dressing ;  added  to 
this,  to  give  it  an  enticing  appearance,  and  to  give  some  of 
the  crispness  and  freshness  so  pleasant  in  salad,  a  small 
quantity  of  raw  endive,  or  lettuce  and  chervil,  or  burnet, 
strewed  on  the  top :  this  is  by  far  more  wholesome  than  the 
raw  salad,  and  is  much  eaten  when  put  on  the  table. 

N.B.  The  above  sauce  is  equally  good  with  cold  meat, 
cold  fish,  or  for  cucumbers,  celery,  radishes,  &c.  and  all 
the  other  vegetables  that  are  sent  to  table  undressed:  to 
the  above,  a  little  minced  onion  is  generally  an  acceptable 
addition. 

Obs.  Salad  is  a  very  compound  dish  with  our  neighbours 
the  French,  who  always  add  to  the  mixture  above,  black 
pepper,  and  sometimes  savoury  spice. 

The  Italians  mince  the  white  meat  of  chickens  into  this 
sauce. 

The  Dutch,  cold  boiled  turbot  or  lobster ;  or  add  to  it  a 
spoonful  of  grated  parmesan  or  old  Cheshire  cheese,  or 
mince  very  fine  a  little  tarragon,  or  chervil,  burnet,  or  young 
onion,  celery,  or  pickled  gherkins,  &c. 

Joan  Cromwell's  grand  salad  was  composed  of  equal  parts 
of  almonds,  raisins,  capers,  pickled  cucumbers,  shrimps,  and 
boiled  turnips. 

This  mixture  is  sometimes  made  with  cream,  oiled  butter 


262  GRAVIES  AND  SAUCES. 

(see  No.  260*),  or  some  good  jelly  of  meat  (which  many 
prefer  to  the  finest  Florence  oil),  and  flavoured  with  salad 
mixture  (No.  453),  basil  (No.  397),  or  cress  or  celery  vinegar 
(No.  397*),  horseradish  vinegar  (No.  399*),  cucumber  vinegar 
(No.  399),  and  06s.  to  No.  116  of  the  Appendix ;  tarragon,  or 
elder  vinegar,  essence  of  celery  (No.  409),  walnut  or  lemon 
pickle,  or  a  slice  of  lemon  cut  into  dice,  and  essence  of  an- 
chovy (No.  433). 

Forcemeat  Stuffings.— (No.  373.) 

Forcemeat  is  now  considered  an  indispensable  accompani- 
ment to  most  made  dishes,  and  when  composed  with  good 
taste,  gives  additional  spirit  and  relish  to  even  that  "  sove- 
reign of  savouriness,"  turtle  soup. 

It  is  also  sent  up  in  patties,  and  for  stuffing  of  veal,  game, 
poultry,  &c. 

The  ingredients  should  be  so  proportioned,  that  no  one 
flavour  predominates. 

To  give  the  same  stuffing  for  veal,  hare,  &c.  argues  a 
poverty  of  invention ;  with  a  little  contrivance,  you  may 
make  as  great  a  variety  as  you  have  dishes. 

I  have  given  receipts  for  some  of  the  most  favourite  com- 
positions, and  a  table  of  materials,  a  glance  at  which  will 
enable  the  ingenious  cook  to  make  an  infinite  variety  of 
combinations:  the  first  column  containing  the  spirit,  the 
second  the  substance  of  them. 

The  poignancy  of  forcemeat  should  be  proportioned  to  the 
savouriness  of  the  viands,  to  which  it  is  intended  to  give  an 
additional  zest.  Some  dishes  require  a  very  delicately 
flavoured  forcemeat,  for  others,  it  must  be  full  and  high 
seasoned.  What  would  be  piquante  in  a  turkey,  would  be 
insipid  with  turtle. 

Tastes  are  so  different,  and  the  praise  the  cook  receives 
will  depend  so  much  on  her  pleasing  the  palate  of  those  she 
works  for,  that  all  her  sagacity  must  be  on  the  alert,  to  pro- 
duce the  flavours  to  which  her  employers  are  partial.  See 
pages  45  and  46. 

Most  people  have  an  acquired  and  peculiar  taste  in  stuff- 
ings, &c.,  and  what  exactly  pleases  one,  seldom  is  precisely 
what  another  considers  the  most  agreeable :  and  after  all  the 
contrivance  of  a  pains-taking  palatician,  to  combine  her 
"  hauts  gouts"  in  the  most  harmonious  proportions. 

"  The  very  dish  one  likes  the  best, 
la  acid,  or  insipid,  to  the  rest" 


STUFFINGS. 


263 


Custom  is  all  in  all  in  matters  of  taste :  it  is  not  that  one 
person  is  naturally  fond  of  this  or  that,  and  another  natu- 
rally averse  to  it ;  but  that  one  is  used  to  it,  and  another  is 
not. 

The  consistency  of  forcemeats  is  rather  a  difficult  thing 
to  manage ;  they  are  almost  always  either  too  light  or  too 
heavy. 

Take  care  to  pound  it  till  perfectly  smooth,  and  that  all 
the  ingredients  are  thoroughly  incorporated. 

Forcemeat-balls  must  not  be  larger  than  a  small  nutmeg. 
If  they  are  for  brown  sauce,  flour  and  fry  them;  if  for 
white,  put  them  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  them  for  three 
minutes  :  the  latter  are  by  far  the  most  delicate. 

N.B.  If  not  of  sufficient  stiffness,  it  falls  to  pieces,  and 
makes  soup,  &c.  grouty  and  veiy  unsightly. 

Sweetbreads  and  tongues  are  the  favourite  materials  for 
forcemeat. 


MATERIALS  USED  FOR  FORCEMEAT,  STUFFINGS,  &C. 


Fresh  and  green, 

or  in  dried 
powder  (No.461). 


SPIRIT. 

Common  thyme. 

Lemon-thyme. 

Orange-thyme. 

Sweet  marjoram. 

Summer  and 

Winter  savoury. 

Sage. 

Tarragon  (No.  396). 

Chervil. 

Burnet  (No.  399). 

Basil  (No  397). 

Bay-leaf. 

Truffles  and 

Morells. 

Mushroom  powder  (No.  439). 

Leeks. 

Onions. 

Eschalot  (No.  402). 

Garlic. 

Lemon- peel  (see  Nos.  407  and  408). 

Shrimps  (No.  175) 

Prawns. 

Crabs. 

Lobsters  (Nos.  176  and  178). 

Oysters. 

Anchovy  (No.  433). 

Dressed  TONOUE  (see  N.B.  to  No.  373). 

Ham. 

Bacon. 


Black  or  white  pepper. 

Allspice. 

Mace. 

Cinnamon 

Ginger. 

Nutmegs. 

Cloves. 

Capers  and  pickles  (minced  or  pounded) 

Savoury  powder  (No.  465). 

Soup  herb  powder  (No.  467). 

Curry  powder  (No.  455). 

Cayenne  (No.  404). 

Zest  (No.  855). 

SUBSTANCES. 

Flour. 

Crumbs  of  bread. 

Parsley  (see  N.B.  to  No.  261). 

Spinage. 

Boiled  onion. 

Mashed  potatoes  (No.  106). 

Yelks  of  hard  eggs  (No.  574). 

Mutton. 

Beef. 

Veal  suet,*  or  marrow. 

Calf's  udder,  or  brains. 

Parboiled  sweetbread. 

Veal,  minced  and  pounded,  and 

Potted  meats,  &c.  (No.  503.) 


*  If  you  have  no  suet,  the  best  substitute  for  it  w  about  one  third  pan  the  quan- 
tity of  butter. 


264  STUFFINGS. 

For  liquids,  you  have  meat  gravy,  lemon-juice,  syrup  of 
lemons  (Nos.  391  and  477),  essence  of  anchovy  (No.  433), 
the  various  vegetable  essences  (No.  407),  mushroom  catchup 
(No.  439),  and  the  whites  and  yelks  of  eggs,  wines,  and  the 
essence  of  spices. 


Stuffing  for  Veal,  roast  Turkey,  Fowl,  #c.—  (No.  374.) 

Mince  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  suet  (beef  marrow  is 
better),  the  same  weight  of  bread-crumbs,  two  drachms  of 
parsley-leaves,  a  drachm  and  a  half  of  sweet  marjoram  or 
lemon-thyme,  and  the  same  of  grated  lemon-peel  and  onion 
chopped  as  fine  as  possible,  a  little  pepper  and  salt  ;  pound 
thoroughly  together  with  the  yelk  and  white  of  two  eggs, 
and  secure  it  in  the  veal  with  a  skewer,  or  sew  it  in  witty  a  bit 
of  thread. 

Make  some  of  it  into  balls  or  sausages  ;  flour  them,  and 
boil,  or  fry  them,  and  send  them  up  as  a  garnish,  or  in  a  side 
dish,  with  roast  poultry,  veal,  or  cutlets,  &c. 

N.B.  This  is  about  the  quantity  for  a  turkey  poult  :  a  very 
large  turkey  will  take  nearly  twice  as  much.  To  the  above 
may  be  added  an  ounce  of  dressed  ham  ;  or  use  equal  parts 
of  the  above  stuffing  and  pork  sausage  meat  (No.  87.) 
pounded  well  together. 

Obs.  Good  stuffing  has  always  been  considered  a  chef- 
d'oeuvre  in  cookery  :  it  has  given  immortality  to 

"  Poor  Roger  Fowler,  who  'd  a  generous  mind, 
Nor  would  submit  to  have  his  hand  confin'd, 
But  aimed  at  all,  —  yet  never  could  excel 
In  any  thing  but  stuffing  of  his  veal." 

KINO'S  Art,  of  Cookery,  p.  113. 

Veal  Forcemeat.—  (No.  375.) 

Of  undressed  lean  veal  (after  you  have  scraped  it  quite 
fine,  and  free  from  skin  and  sinews),  two  ounces,  the  same 
quantity  of  beef  or  veal  suet,  and  the  same  of  bread-crumbs  ; 
chop  fine  two  drachms  of  parsley,  one  of  lemon-peel,  one  of 
sweet  herbs,  one  of  onion,  and  half  a  drachm  of  mace,  or 
allspice,  beaten  to  fine  powder  ;  pound  all  together  in  a  mor- 
tar ;  break  into  it  the  yelk  and  white  of  an  egg  ;  rub  it  all  up 
well  together,  and  season  it  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt. 

Obs.  —  This  may  be  made  more  savoury  by  the  addition  of 
cold  boiled  pickled  tongue,  Anchovy,  eschalot,  Cayenne  or 
curry  powder,  &c. 


FORCEMEATS.  26o 

Stuffing  for  Turkeys  or  Fowls,  #c.— (No.  377.) 

Ta*ke  the  foregoing  composition  for  the  roast  turkey,  oj 
add  the  soft  part  of  a  dozen  oysters  to  it :  an  anchovy,  or  a 
little  grated  ham,  or  tongue,  if  you  like  it,  is  still  more  relish- 
ing. Fill  the  craw  of  the  fowl,  &c. ;  but  do  not  cram  it  so 
as  to  disfigure  its  shape. 

Pork  sausage  meat  is  sometimes  used  to  stuff  turkeys  and 
fowls ;  or  fried,  and  sent  up  as  a  garnish. 

Goose  or  Duck  Stuffing.— (No.  378.) 

Chop  very  fine  about  two  ounces  of  onion,  of  green  sage- 
leaves  about  an  ounce  (both  unboiled),  four  ounces  of  bread- 
crumbs, a  bit  of  butter  about  as  big  as  a  .walnut,  &c.,  the 
yelk  and  white  of  an  egg,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt :  some 
add  to  this  a  minced  apple. 

For  another,  see  roasted  goose  and  duck  (Nos.  59  and  61), 
which  latter  we  like  as  forcemeat-balls  for  mock  turtle ;  then 
add  a  little  lemon-peel,  and  warm  it  with  Cayenne. 

Stuffing  for  Hare.— (No.  379.) 

Two  ounces  of  beef  suet  chopped  fine ;  three  ounces  of  fine 
bread-crumbs ;  parsley,  a  drachm ;  eschalot,  half  a  drachm ; 
a  drachm  of  marjoram,  lemon-thyme,  or  winter  savoury ;  a 
drachm  of  grated  lemon-peel,  and  the  same  of  pepper  and 
salt :  mix  these  with  the  white  and  yelk  of  an  egg ;  do  not 
make  it  thin — it  must  be  of  cohesive  consistence :  if  your 
stuffing  is  not  stiff  enough,  it  will  be  good  for  nothing :  put 
it  in  the  hare,  and  sew  it  up. 

\*  If  the  liver  is  quite  sound,  you  may  parboil  it,  and 
mince  it  very  fine,  and  add  it  to  the  above. 

Forcemeat-Balls  for  Turtle,  Mock  Turtle,  or  Made  Dishes. 
(No.  380.     See  also  No.  375.) 

Pound  some  veal  in  a  marble  mortar ;  rub  it  through  a  sieve 
with  as  much  of  the  udder  as  you  have  veal,  or  about  a  third 
of  the  quantity  of  butter :  put  some  bread-crumbs  into  a 
stew-pan,  moisten  them  with  milk,  add  a  little  chopped 
parsley  and  eschalot,  rub  them  well  together  in  a  mortar  till 
they  form  a  smooth  paste ;  put  it  through  a  sieve,  and,  when 
cold,  pound,  and  mix  all  together,  with  the  yelks  of  three 
eggs  boiled  hard;  season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  curry 
powder,  or  Cayenne ;  add  to  it  the  yelks  of  two  raw  eggs ; 
rub  it  well  together,  and  make  small  balls:  ten  minutes 
before  your  soup  is  ready,  put  them  in. 

Z 


266  FORCEMEATS. 

Egg  Balls.— (No.  381.) 

Boil  four  eggs  for  ten  minutes,  and  put  them  into  cold 
water ;  when  they  are  quite  cold,  put  the  yelks  into  a  mortar 
with  the  yelk  of  a  raw  egg,  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour,  same  of 
chopped  parsley,  as  much  salt  as  will  lie  on  a  shilling,  and  a 
little  black  pepper,  or  Cayenne ;  rub  them  well  together,  roll 
them  into  small  balls  (as  they  swell  in  boiling) ;  boil  them  a 
couple  of  minutes. 

Brain  Balls. 

See  No.  247,  or  beat  up  the  brains  of  a  calf  in  the  way  we 
have  above  directed  the  egg. 

Curry  Balls  for  Mock  Turtle,  Veal,  Poultry,  Made  Dishes,  &c. 
(No.  382.) 

Are  made  with  bread-crumbs,  the  yelk  of  an  egg  boiled 
hard,  and  a  bit  of  fresh  butter  about  half  as  big,  beaten  toge- 
ther in  a  mortar,  and  seasoned  with  curry  powder  (No.  455)  : 
make  and  prepare  small  balls,  as  directed  in  No.  381. 

Fish  Forcemeat.— (No.  383.) 

Take  two  ounces  of  either  turbot,  sole,  lobster,  shrimps,  or 
oysters ;  free  from  skin,  put  it  in  a  mortar  with  two  ounces 
of  fresh  butter,  one  ounce  of  bread-crumbs,  the  yelk  of  two 
eggs  boiled-  hard,  and  a  little  eschalot,  grated  lemon-peel,  and 
parsley,  minced  very  fine ;  then  pound  it  well  till  it  is  tho- 
roughly mixed  and  quite  smooth ;  season  it  with  salt  and 
Cayenne  to  your  taste ;  break  in  the  yelk  and  white  of  one- 
egg,  rub  it  well  together,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Oysters 
parboiled  and  minced  fine,  and  an  anchovy,  may  be  added. 

Zest  Balls.— (No.  386.     See  No.  255.) 
Prepared  in  the  same  way  as  No.  381. 

Orange  or  Lemon-peel,  to  mix  with  Stuffing. — (No.  387.) 

Peel  a  Seville  orange,  or  lemon,  very  thin,  taking  off  only 
the  fine  yellow  rind  (without  any  of  the  white) ;  pound  it  in  a 
mortar  with  a  bit  of  lump  sugar ;  rub  it  well  with  the  peel ; 
by  degrees  add  a  little  of  the  forcemeat  it  is  to  be  mixed  with : 
when  it  is  well  ground  and  blended  with  this,  mix  it  with  the 
whole :  there  is  no  other  way  of  incorporating  it  so  well. 

Forcemeats,  &c.  are  frequently  spoiled  by  the  insufficient 
mixing  of  the  ingredients. 


• 
STOEE    SAUCES.  267 

Clouted  or  Clotted  Cream.— (No,  388.) 

.  The  milk  which  is  put  into  the  pans  one  morning  stands 
till  the  next ;  then  set  the  pan  on  a  hot  hearth,  or  in  a  copper 
tray*  half  full  of  water ;  put  this  over  a  stove ;  in  from  ten 
to  twenty  minutes,  according  to  the  quantity  of  the  milk  and 
the  size  of  the  pan,  it  will  be  done  enough ;  the  sign  of  which 
is,  that  bladders  rise  on  its  surface ;  this  denotes  that  it  is  near 
boiling,  which  it  must  by  no  means  do;  and  it  must  be 
instantly  removed  from  the  fire,  and  placed  in  the  dairy  till 
the  next  morning,  when  the  fine  cream  is  thrown  up,  and  is 
ready  for  the  table,  or  for  butter,  into  which  it  is  soon  con- 
verted by  stirring  it  with  the  hand. 
N.B.  This  receipt  we  have  not  proved. 

Raspberry  Vinegar.— (No.  390.) 

The  best  way  to  make  this,  is  to  pour  three  pints  of  the 
best  white  wine  vinegar  on  a  pint  and  a  half  of  fresh- 
gathered  red  raspberries  in  a  stone  jar,  or  China  bowl 
(neither  glazed  earthenware,  nor  any  metallic  vessel,  must 
be  used) ;  the  next  day  strain  the  liquor  over  a  like  quantity 
of  fresh  raspberries ;  and  the  day  following  do  the  same. 
Then  drain  off  the  liquor  without  pressing,  and  pass  it 
through  a  jelly  bag  (previously  wetted  with  plain  vinegar) 
into  a  stone  jar,  with  a  pound  of  pounded  lump  sugar  to  each 
pint.  When  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  stir  it  up,  cover  down 
the  jar,  and  set  it  in  a  saucepan  of  water,  and  keep  it  boiling 
for  an  hour,  taking  off  the  scum ;  add  to  each  pint  a  glass 
of  brandy,  and  bottle  it :  mixed  in  about  eight  parts  of  water, 
it  is  a  very  refreshing  and  delightful  summer  drink.  An 
excellent  cooling  beverage  to  assuage  thirst  in  ardent  fevers, 
colds,  and  inflammatory  complaints,  &c.  and  is  agreeable  to 
most  palates. 

See  No.  479*. 

N.B.  We  have  not  proved  this  receipt. 

Syrup  of  Lemons.— (No.  391.) 

The  best  season  for  lemons  is  from  November  to  March. 
Put  a  pint  of  fresh  lemon-juice  to  a  pound  and  three- 
quarters  of  lump  sugar ;  dissolve  it  by  a  gentle  heat ;  skim  it 
till  the  surface  is  quite  clear;  add  an  ounce  of  thin-cut 
lemon-peel ;  let  them  simmer  (very  gently)  together  for  a 

*  A  baine-marie.    See  note  to  No.  485. 


268  STORE   SAUCES. 

few  minutes,  and  run  it  through  a  flannel.    When  cold,  bottle 
and  cork  it  closely,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place.    Or, 

Dissolve  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  (avoirdupois)  of  citric, 
f .  fi.  crystallized  lemon  acid,  in  a  pint  of  clarified  syrup  (No! 
475) ;  flavour  it  with  the  peel,  with  No.  408,  or  dissolve  the 
acid  in  equal  parts  of  simple  syrup  (No.  475),  and  syrup  of 
lemon-peel,  as  made  No.  393. 

The  Justice's  Orange  Syrup  for  Punch  or  Puddings. — (No.  392.) 

Squeeze  the  oranges,  and  strain  the  juice  from  the  pulp 
into  a  large  pot ;  boil  it  up  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  fine 
sugar  to  each  point  of  juice ;  skim  it  well ;  let  it  stand  till 
cold ;  then  bottle  it,  and  cork  it  well. 

Obs. — This  makes  a  fine,  soft,  mellow-flavoured  punch; 
and,  added  to  melted  butter,  is  a  good  relish  to  puddings. 

Syrup  of  Orange  or  Lemon-peel. — (No.  393.) 

Of  fresh  outer  rind  of  Seville  orange  or  lemon-peel,  three 
ounces,  apothecaries'  weight ;  boiling  water  a  pint  and  a  half; 
infuse  them  for  a  night  in  a  close  vessel ;  then  strain  the 
liquor :  let  it  stand  to  settle ;  and  having  poured  it  off  clear 
from  the  sediment,  dissolve  in  it  two  pounds  of  double-re- 
fined loaf  sugar,  and  make  it  into  a  syrup  with  a  gentle  heat. 

O6s. — In  making  this  syrup,  if  the  sugar  be  dissolved  in 
the  infusion  with  as  gentle  a  heat  as  possible,  to  prevent  the 
exhalation  of  the  volatile  parts  of  the  peel,  this  syrup  will 
possess  a  great  share  of  the  fine  flavour  of  the  orange,  or 
lemon-peel. 

Vinegar  for  Salads.— (No.  395.) 

"  Take  of  tarragon,  savoury,  chives,  eschalots,  three  ounces 
each ;  a  handful  of  the  tops  of  mint  and  balm,  all  dry  and 
pounded ;  put  into  a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  with  a  gallon  of 
best  vinegar ;  cork  it  close,  set  it  in  the  sun,  and  in  a  fort- 
night strain  off,  and  squeeze  the  herbs  ;  let  it  stand  a  day  to 
settle,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  filtering  bag."  From 
PARMENTIER'S  Art  defaire  les  Vinaigres,  8vo.  1805,  p.  205. 

Tarragon  Vinegar.— {No.  396.) 

This  is  a  very  agreeable  addition  to  soups,  salad  sauce 
fNo.  455),  and  to  mix  mustard  (No.  370).  Fill  a  wide- 
mouthed  bottle  with  fresh-gathered  tarragon-leaves,  i.  e. 
between  midsummer  and  Michaelmas  (which  should  be 
gathered  on  a  dry  day,  just  before  it  flowers),  and  pick  the 


STORE    SAUCES.  269 

leaves  off  the  stalks,  and  dry  them  a  little  before  the  fire ; 
cover  them  with  the  best  vinegar ;  let  them  steep  fourteen 
days  ;  then  strain  through  a  flannel  jelly  bag  till  it  is  fine ; 
then  pour  it  into  half-pint  bottles ;  cork  them  carefully,  and 
keep  them  in  a  dry  place. 

Obs.  You  may  prepare  elder-flowers  and  herbs  in  the  same 
manner;  elder  and  tarragon  are -those  in  most  general  use  in 
this  country. 

Our  neighbours,  the  French,  prepare  vinegars  flavoured 
with  celery,  cucumbers,  capsicums,  garlic,  eschalot,  onion, 
capers,  chervil,  cress-seed,  burnet,  truffles,  Seville  orange- 
peel,  ginger,  &c. ;  in  short,  they  impregnate  them  with 
almost  every  herb,  fruit,  flower,  and  spice,  separately,  and  in 
innumerable  combinations. 

Messrs.  Maille  et  Aclocque,  Vinaigriers  a  Paris,  sell  sixty- 
five  sorts  of  variously  flavoured  vinegar,  and  twenty-eight 
different  sorts  of  mustard. 

Basil  Vinegar  or  Wine.— (No.  397.) 

Sweet  basil  is  in  full  perfection  about  the  middle  of  August. 
Fill  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  with  the  fresh  green  leaves  of 
basil  (these  give  much  finer  and  more  flavour  than  the  dried), 
and  cover  them  with  vinegar,  or  wine,  and  let  them  steep  for 
ten  days :  if  you  wish  a  very  strong  essence,  strain  the 
liquor,  put  it  on  some  fresh  leaves,  and  let  them  steep  four- 
teen days  more. 

Obs.  This  is  a  very  agreeable  addition  to  sauces,  soups, 
and  to  the  mixture  usually  made  for  salads.  See  Nos.  372 
and  453. 

It  is  a  secret  the  makers  of  mock  turtle  may  thank  us  for 
telling;  a  table-spoonful  put  in  when  the  soup  is  finished 
will  impregnate  a  tureen  of  soup  with  the  basil  and  acid 
flavours,  at  very  small  cost,  when  fresh  basil  and  lemons  are 
extravagantly  dear. 

The  flavour  of  the  other  sweet  and  savoury  herbs,  celery, 
&c.  may  be  procured,  and  preserved  in  the  same  manner 
(No.  409,  or  No.  417),  by  infusing  them  in  wine  or  vinegar. 

Cms  Finegar.—(No.  397*.) 

Dry  and  pound  half  an  ounce  of  cress-seed  (such  as  is 
sown  in  the  garden  with  mustard),  pour  upon,  it  a  quart  df 
the  best  vinegar,  let  it  steep  ten  days,  shaking  it  up  every 
day. 

Obs.  This  is  very  strongly  flavoured  with  cress ;  and  for 
salads  and  cold  meats,  &c.  it  is  a  great  favourite  with  many ; 

/j    '•* 


270  STORE   SAUCES. 

the  quart  of  sauce  costs  only  a  half-penny  more  than  the 
vinegar. 

Celery  vinegar  is  made  in  the  same  manner. 

The  crystal  vinegar  (No.  407*),  which  is,  we  believe,  the 
pyroligneous  acid,  is  the  best  for  receiving  flavours,  having 
scarcely  any  of  its  own. 

Green  Mint  Vinegar,— (No.  398.) 

Is  made  precisely  in  the  same  manner,  and  with  the  same 
proportions  as  in  No.  397. 

Obs. — In  the  early  season  of  housed  lamb,  green  mint 
is  sometimes  not  to  be  got ;  the  above  is  then  a  welcome 
substitute. 

Burnet  or  Cucumber  Vinegar.— (No.  399.) 

This  is  made  in  precisely  the  same  manner  as  directed  in 
No.  397.  The  flavour  of  burnet  resembles  cucumber  so  ex- 
actly, that  when  infused  in  vinegar,  the  nicest  palate  would 
pronounce  it  to  be  cucumber. 

Obs. — This  is  a  very  favourite  relish  with  cold  meat, 
salads,  &c. 

Burnet  is  in  best  season  from  midsummer  to  Michaelmas. 

Horseradish  Vinegar.— (No.  399*.) 

Horseradish  is  in  highest  perfection  about  November. 

Pour  a  quart  of  best  vinegar  on  three  ounces  of  scraped 
horseradish,  an  ounce  of  minced  eschalot,  and  one  drachm 
of  Cayenne ;  let  it  stand  a  week,  and  you  will  have  an  ex- 
cellent relish  for  cold  beef,  salads,  &c.  costing  scarcely  any 
thing. 

N.B.  A  portion  of  black  pepper  and  mustard,  celery  or 
cress-seed,  may  be  added  to  the  above. 

O&s.—Horseradish  powder  (No.  458*). 

Garlic  Vinegar. — (No.  400.) 

Garlic  is  ready  for  this  purpose  from  midsummer  to 
Michaelmas. 

Peel  and  chop  two  ounces  of  garlic,  pour  on  them  a  quart 
of  white  wine  vinegar,  stop  the  jar  close,  and  let  it  steep 
ten  days,  shaking  it  well  every  day ;  then  pour  off  the  clear 
liquor  into  small  bottles. 

Obs. — The  cook  must  be  careful  not  to  use  too  much  of 
this ;  a  few  drops  of  it  will  give  a  pint  of  gravy  a  sufficient 


STORE   SAUCES.  271 

smack  of  the  garlic,  the  flavour  of  which,  when  slight  and 
well  blended,  is  one  of  the  finest  we  have ;  when  used  in  ex- 
cess, it  is  the  most  offensive. 

The  best  way  to  use  garlic,  is  to  send  up  some  of  this 
vinegar  in  a  cruet,  and  let  the  company  flavour  their  own 
sauce  as  they  like. 

N.B.  The  most  elegant  preparation  of  the  onion  tribe  is 
the  eschalot  wine,  No.  402. 

Eschalot  Vinegar,— (No.  401.) 

Is  made  in  the  same  manner,  and  the  cook  should  never 
be  without  one  of  these  useful  auxiliaries ;  they  cost  scarcely 
any  thing  but  the  little  trouble  of  making,  and  will  save  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  in  flavouring  soups  and  sauces  with  a 
taste  of  onion. 

N.B.  Eschalots  are  in  high  perfection  during  July,  August, 
and  September. 

Eschalot  Wine.— (No.  402.) 

Peel,  mince,  and  pound  in  a  mortar,  three  ounces  of 
eschalots,  and  infuse  them  in  a  pint  of  sherry  for  ten  days ; 
then  pour  off  the  clear  liquor  on  three  ounces  more  eschalots, 
and  let  the  wine  stand  on  them  ten  days  longer. 

Obs. — This  is  rather  the  most  expensive,  but  infinitely  the 
most  elegant  preparation  of  eschalot,  and  imparts  the  onion 
flavour  to  soups  and  sauces,  for  chops,  steaks,  or  boiled 
meats,  hashes,  &c.  more  agreeably  than  any :  it  does  not 
leave  any  unpleasant  taste  in  the  mouth,  or  to  the  breath ; 
nor  repeat,  as  almost  all  other  preparations  of  garlic,  onion, 
&c.  do. 

N.B.  An  ounce  of  scraped  horseradish  may  be  added  to 
the  above,  and  a  little  thin-cut  lemon-peel,  or  a  few  drops  of 
No.  408. 

Camp  Vinegar.— (No.  403.) 

Cayenne  pepper,  one  drachm,  avoirdupois  weight. 

Soy,  two  table-spoonfuls. 

Walnut  catchup,  four  ditto. 

Six  anchovies  chopped. 

A  small  clove  of  garlic,  minced  fine. 

Steep  all  for  a  month  in  a  pint  of  the  best  vinegar,  fre- 
quently shaking  the  bottle :  strain  through  a  tamis,  and  keep 
it  in  small  bottles,  corked  as  tightly  as  possible. 


272  STORE   SAUCES. 

Cayenne  Pepper.— (No.  404.) 

Mr.  Accum  has  informed  the  public  (see  his  book  on 
Adulterations)  that  from  some  specimens  that  came  direct 
to  him  from  India,  and  others  obtained  from  respectable  oil 
shops  in  London,  he  has  extracted  lead ! 

"  Foreign  Cayenne  pepper  is  an  indiscriminate  mixture  of 
the  powder  of  the  dried  pods  of  many  species  of  capsicums, 
especially  of  the  bird  pepper,  which  is  the  hottest  of  all. 
As  it  comes  to  us  from  the  West  Indies,  it  changes  the  in- 
fusion of  turnsole  to  a  beautiful  green,  probably  owing  to 
the  salt,  which  is  always  added  to  it,  and  the  red  oxide  of 
lead,  with  which  it  is  said  to  be  adulterated."  DUNCAN'S 
New  Edinburgh  Dispensary,  1819,  Article  Capsicum,  p.  81. 

The  Indian  Cayenne  is  prepared  in  a  very  careless  man- 
ner, and  often  looks  as  if  the  pods  had  lain  till  they  were 
decayed,  before  they  were  dried :  this  accounts  for  the  dirty 
brown  appearance  it  commonly  has.  If  properly  dried  as 
soon  as  gathered,  it  will  be  of  a  clear  red  colour :  to  give  it 
the  complexion  of  that  made  with  good  fresh-gathered 
capsicums  or  Chilies,  some  annatto,  or  other  vegetable  red 
colouring  matter,  is  pounded  with  it :  this,  Mr.  A.  assures 
us,  is  frequently  adulterated  with  Indian  red,  i.  e.  "  red 
lead!" 

When  Cayenne  is  pounded,  it  is  mixed  with  a  considera- 
ble portion  of  salt,  to  prevent  its  flying  up  and  hurting  the 
eyes :  this  might  be  avoided  by  grinding  it  in  a  mill,  which 
may  easily  be  made  close  enough,  especially  if  it  be  passed 
through  a  second  time,  and  then  sifted  through  a  fine  drum- 
headed  sieve,  to  produce  as  fine  a  powder  as  can  be  obtained 
by  pounding ;  however,  our  English  chilies  may  be  pounded 
in  a  deep  mortar  without  any  danger. 

The  flavour  of  the  Chilies  is  very  superior  to  that  of  the 
capsicums,  and  will  be  good  in  proportion  as  they  are  dried 
as  soon  as  possible,  taking  care  they  are  not  burned. 

Take  away  the  stalks,  and  put  the  pods  into  a  colander ; 
set  it  before  the  fire ;  they  will  take  full  twelve  hours  to 
dry;  then  put  them  into  a  mortar,  with  one-fourth  their 
weight  of  salt,  and  pound  them,  and  rub  them  till  they 
are  fine  as  possible,  and  put  them  into  a  well-stopped  bottle. 

N.B.  We  advise  those  who  are  fond  of  Cayenne  not  to 
think  it  too  much  trouble  to  make  it  of  English  Chilies ;  there- 
is  no  other  way  of  being  sure  it  is  genuine,  and  they  will 
obtain  a  pepper  of  much  finer  flavour,  without  half  the  heat 
of  the  foreign. 

A  hundred  large  Chilies,  costing  only  two  shillings,  will 


STORE    SAUCES.  -273 

produce  you  about  two  ounces  of  Cayenne,  so  it  is  as  cheap 
as  the  commonest  Cayenne. 

Four  hundred  Chilies,  when  the  stems  were  taken  off, 
weighed  half  a  pound ;  and  when  dried,  produced  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  Cayenne  pepper. 

Essence  of  Cayenne.— (No.  405.) 

Put  half  an  ounce  of  Cayenne  pepper  (No.  404)  into  half 
a  pint  of  brandy  or  wine ;  let  it  steep  for  a  fortnight,  and  then 
pour  off  the  clear  liquor. 

This  is  nearly  equal  to  fresh  Chili  juice. 

Obs.— This  or  the  Chili  vinegar  (No.  405*,)  is  extremely 
convenient  for  the  extempore  seasoning  and  finishing  of 
soups,  sauces,  &c.,  its  flavour  being  instantly  and  equally 
diffused.  Cayenne  pepper  varies  so  much  in  strength,  that 
it  is  impossible  to  season  soup  any  other  way  to  the  precise 
point  of  piquance. 

Chili  Finegar.—(No.  405*.) 

This  is  commonly  made  with  the  foreign  bird- pepper;  but 
you  will  obtain  a  much  finer  flavour  from  infusing  fifty  fresh 
red  English  Chilies  (cut  in  half,  or  pounded)  in  a  pint  of  the 
best  vinegar  for  a  fortnight,  or  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
Cayenne  pepper,  No.  404. 

Obs. — Many  people  cannot  eat  fish  without  the  addition  of 
an  acid,  and  Cayenne  pepper :  to  such  palates  this  will  be  an 
agreeable  relish. 

Chili,  or  Cayenne  Wine.— (No.  406.) 

Pound  and  steep  fifty  fresh  red  Chilies,  or  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  Cayenne  pepper,  in  half  a  pint  of  brandy,  white 
wine,  or  claret,  for  fourteen  days. 

Obs. — This  is  a  "  bonne  bouche"  for  the  lovers  of  Cayenne, 
of  which  it  takes  up  a  larger  proportion  of  its  flavour  than 
of  its  fire ;  which  being  instantly  diffused,  it  is  a  very  useful 
auxiliary  to  warm  and  finish  soups  and  sauces,  &c. 

Essence  of  Lemon-peel.— (No.  407.) 

Wash  and  brush  clean  the  lemons ;  let  them  get  perfectly 
dry :  take  a  lump  of  loaf  sugar,  and  rub  them  till  all  the 
yellow  rind  is  taken  up  by  the  sugar :  scrape  off  the  surface 
of  the  sugar  into  a  preserving  pot,  and  press  it  hard  down ; 
cover  it  very  close,  and  it  will  keep  for  some  time. 


274  STORE   SAUCES. 

In  the  same  way  you  may  get  the  essence  of  Seville 
orange-peel. 

Obs.  This  method  of  procuring  and  preserving  the  flavour 
of  lemon-peel,  by  making  an  oleo-saccharum,  is  far  superior 
to  the  common  practice  of  paring  off  the  rind,  or  grating  it, 
and  pounding,  or  mixing  that  with  sugar :  by  this  process 
you  obtain  the  whole  of  the  fine,  fragrant,  essential  oil,  in 
which  is  contained  the  flavour. 

Artificial  Lemon-juice.— (No.  407*.) 

If  you  add  a  drachm  of  lump  sugar,  pounded,  and  six 
drops  of  No.  408,  to  three  ounces  of  crystal  vinegar,  which 
is  the  name  given  to  the  pyroligneous  vinegar,  you  will  have 
an  excellent  substitute  for  lemon-juice— for  fish  sauces  and 
soups,  and  many  other  culinary  purposes.  The  flavour  of 
the  lemon  may  also  be  communicated  to  the  vinegar  by  in- 
fusing some  lemon-peel  in  it. 

N.B.  The  pyroligneous  vinegar  is  perfectly  free  from  all 
flavour,  save  that  of  the  pure  acid ;  therefore,  it  is  a  very 
valuable  menstruum  for  receiving  impregnations  from  vari- 
ous flavouring  materials. 

The  pyroligneous  acid  seems  likely  to  produce  quite  a 
revolution  in  the  process  of  curing  hams,  herrings,  &c.  &c. 
See  TILLOCH'S  Philosophical  Magazine,  1821,  No.  173,  p.  12. 

Quintessence  of  Lemon-peel. — (No.  408.) 

Beet  oil  of  lemon,  one  drachm,  strongest  rectified  spirit, 
two  ounces,  introduced  by  degrees  till  the  spirit  kills,  arid 
completely  mixes  with  the  oil.  This  elegant  preparation 
possesses  all  the  delightful  fragrance  and  flavour  of  the 
freshest  lemon-peel. 

06s.  A  few  drops  on  the  sugar  you  make  punch  with  will 
instantly  impregnate  it  with  as  much  flavour  as  the  trouble- 
some and  tedious  method  of  grating  the  rind,  or  rubbing  the 
sugar  on  it. 

It  will  be  found  a  superlative  substitute  for  fresh  lemon- 
peel  for  every  purpose  that  it  is  used  for :  blanc  mange, 
.jellies,  custards,  ice,  negus,  lemonade,  and  pies  and  puddings, 
stuffings,  soups,  sauces,  ragouts,  &c. 

See  also  No.  393. 

Tincture  of  Lemon-peel. — (No.  408*.) 
A  very  easy  and  economical  way  of  obtaining,  and  pre- 


STORE    SAUCES.  275 

serving  the  flavour  of  lemon-peel,  is  to  fill  a  wide-mouthed 
pint  bottle  half  full  of  brandy,  or  proof  spirit ;  and  when 
you  use  a  lemon,  pare  the  rind  off  very  thin,  and  put  it  into 
the  brandy,  &c. :  in  a  fortnight  it  will  impregnate  the  spirit 
with  the  flavour  very  strongly. 

Essence  of  Celery.— (No.  409.) 

Brandy,  or  proof  spirit,  a  quarter  of  a  pint. 

Celery-seed  bruised,  half  an  ounce,  avoirdupois  weight. 

Let  it  steep  for  a  fortnight. 

Obs. — A  few  drops  will  immediately  flavour  a  pint  of  broth, 
and  are  an  excellent  addition  to  pease,  and  other  soups,  and 
the  salad  mixture  of  oil,  vinegar,  &c.  (No.  392.) 

N.B.  To  make  celery  sauce,  see  No.  289. 

Aromatic  Essence  of  Ginger.— (No.  411.) 

Three  ounces  of  fresh-grated*  ginger,  and  two  ounces  of 
thin-cut  lemon-peel,  into  a  quart  of  brandy,  or  proof  spirit 
(apothecaries'  measure) ;  let  it  stand  for  ten  days,  shaking 
it  up  each  day. 

06s. — The  proper  title  for  this  would  be  "  tincture  of  gin- 
ger :"  however,  as  it  has  obtained  the  name  of  "  essence," 
so  let  it  be  called. 

N.B.  If  ginger  is  taken  to  produce  an  immediate  effect, 
to  warm  the  stomach,  or  dispel  flatulence,  this  is  the  best 
preparation. 

Essence  of  Allspice  for  mulling  of  Wine. — (No.  412.) 

Oil  of  pimento,  a  drachm,  apothecaries'  measure,  strong 
spirit  of  wine,  two  ounces,  mixed  by  degrees :  a  few  drops 
will  give  the  flavour  of  allspice  to  a  pint  of  gravy,  or 
mulled  wine,  or  to  make  a  bishop.  Mulled  wine  made  with 
Burgundy  is  called  bishop ;  with  old  Rhenish  wine,  cardinal ; 
and  with  Tokay,  Pope.  HITTER'S  Weinlehres,  p.  200 

Tincture]  of  Allspice.— (No.  413.) 

Of  allspice  bruised,  three  ounces,  apothecaries'  weight. 
Brandy,  a  quart. 

*  The  fragrant  aroma  of  ginger  is  so  extremely  volatile,  that  it  evaporates  almost 
as  soon  as  it  is  powdered ;  and  the  fine  lemon-peel  gout  flies  off  presently. 
I  Tinctures  are  much  finer  flavoured  than  essences. 


276  STORE    SAUCES. 

Let  it  steep  a  fortnight,  occasionally  shaking  it  up ;  then 
pour  off  the  clear  liquor :  it  is  a  most  grateful  addition  in  all 
cases  where  allspice  is  used,  for  making  a  bishop,  of  to 
mulled  wine  extempore,  or  in  gravies,  &c.,  or  to  flavour  and 
preserve  potted  meats  (No.  503).  See  SIR  HANS  SLOANE'S 
Obs.  on  Msvice,  p.  96. 

Tincture  of  Nutmeg.— (No.  413*.) 

Is  made  with  the  same  proportions  of  nutmeg  and  brandy, 
as  ordered  for  allspice.  See  Obs.  to  No.  415. 

Essence  of  Clove  and  Mace.— (No.  414.) 
Strongest    spirit    of    wine,    two    ounces,   apothecaries' 

measure. 
Oil  of  nutmeg,  or  clove,  or  mace,  a  drachm,  apothecaries" 

measure. 

Tincture  of  Clove.— (No.  415.) 

Cloves  bruised,  three  ounces,  apothecaries'  weight. 
Brandy,  one  quart. 

Let  it  steep  ten  days :  strain  it  through  a  flannel  sieve. 
Obs." -Excellent  to  flavour  "  bishop,"  or  "  mulled  wine." 

Essence  of  Cinnamon. — (No.  416.) 

Strongest  rectified  spirit  of  wine,  two  ounces. 

Oil  of  Cinnamon,  one  drachm,  apothecaries'  measure. 

Tincture  of  Cinnamon.— (No.  416*.) 

This  exhilarating  cordial  is  made  by  pouring  a  bottle  of 
genuine  cognac  (No.  471,)  on  three  ounces  of  bruised  cinna- 
mon (cassia  will  not  do). 

This  restorative  was  more  in  vogue  formerly  than  it  is 
now  :  a  tea-spoonful  of  it,  and  a  lump  of  sugar,  in  a  glass  of 
good  sherry  or  Madeira,  with  the  yelk  of  an  egg  beat  up  in 
it,  was  called  "  balsamum  vitce." 

l!  Cur  moriatur  homo,  qui  sumit  de  cinnamomo  ?"— "  Cinnamon  is  verie  comfort, 
able  to  the  stomacke,  and  the  principall  paries  of  the  bodie." 

"  Ventriculum,  jecur,  lienem,  cerebrum,  nervosque  juvat  et  roborat." — "I  reckon 
;«t  a  gfreat  treasure  for  a  student  to  have  by  him  in  his  closet,  to  take  now  and  then 
a  spoonful."— COGAN'S  Haven  of  Health,  4to.  1584,  p.  111. 

O&s.—Two  tea-spoonfuls  in  a  wine-glass  of  water,  are  a 
present  and  pleasant  remedy  in  nervous  languors,  and  in 
relaxations  of  the  bowels  :  in  the  latter  case,  five  drops  of 
laudanum  may  be  added  to  each  dose. 


STORE  SAUCES.  277 

Essence  of  Marjoram. — (No.  417.) 

Strongest  rectified  spirit,  two  ounces. 

Oil  of  origanum,  one  drachm,  apothecaries'  measure. 

Vegetable  Essences.— (No.  417*.) 

The  flavour  of  the  various  sweet  and  savoury  herbs  may 
be  obtained  by  combining  their  essential  oils  with  rectified 
spirit  of  wine,  in  the  proportion  of  one  drachm  of  the  former 
to  two  ounces  of  the  latter,  or  by  picking  the  leaves,  and 
laying  them  for  a  couple  of  hours  in  a  warm  place  to  dry, 
and  then  filling  a  large-mouthed  bottle  with  them,  and  pouring 
on  them  wine,  brandy,  proof  spirit,  or  vinegar,  and  letting 
them  steep  for  fourteen  days. 

Soup-herb*  Spirit.— (No.  420.) 

Of  lemon-thyme, 

Winter  savoury, 

Sweet  marjoram, 

Sweet  basil, — half  an  ounce  of  each. 

Lemon-peel  grated,  two  drachms. 

Eschalots,  the  same. 

Celery-seed,  a  drachm,  avoirdupois  weight. 

Prepare  them  as  directed  in  No.  461 ;  and  infuse  them  in 
a  pint  of  brandy,  or  proof  spirit,  for  ten  days :  they  may  also 
be  infused  in  wine  or  vinegar,  but  neither  extract  the  flavour 
of  the  ingredients  half  so  well  as  the  spirit. 

Spirit  of  Savoury  Spice.— (No.  421.) 

Black  pepper,  an  ounce ;  allspice,  half  an  ounce,  pounded 
fine. 

Nutmeg  grated,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce,  avoirdupois  weight. 

Infuse  in  a  pint  of  brandy,  or  proof  spirit,  for  ten  days  ; 
or,  infuse  the  ingredients  enumerated  in  No.  457,  in  a  quart 
of  brandy,  or  proof  spirit,  for  the  like  time. 

Soup-herb  and  Savoury  Spice  Spirit. — (No.  422.) 

Mix  half  a  pint  of  soup-herb  spirit  with  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  spirit  of  savoury  spice. 

Obs. — These  preparations  are  valuable  auxiliaries  to  imme- 
diately heighten  the  flavour,  and  finish  soups,  sauces,  ragouts, 

*  For  the  season,  &c.  when  these  herbs,  &c.  come  in  perfection,  and  how  to  dry 
them,  see  No.  461. 

Aa 


278  SAUCE    SUPERLATIVE. 

&c.,  will  save  much  time  and  trouble  to  the  cook,  and  keep 
for  twenty  years. 

Relish  for  Chops,  fyc. — (No.  423.) 

Pound  fine  an  ounce  of  black  pepper,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  allspice,  with  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  half  an  ounce  of 
scraped  horseradish,  and  the  same  of  eschalots,  peeled  and 
quartered ;  put  these  ingredients  into  a  pint  of  mushroom 
catchup,  or  walnut  pickle,  and  let  them  steep  for  a  fortnight, 
and  then  strain  it. 

Obs. — A  tea-spoonful  or  two  of  this  is  generally  an 
acceptable  addition,  mixed  with  the  gravy  usually  sent  up 
for  chops  and  steaks  (see  No.  356) ;  or  added  to  thick  melted 
butter. 

Fish  Sauce.— (No.  425.) 

Two  wine-glasses  of  port,  and  two  of  walnut  pickle,  four 
of  mushroom  catchup,  half  a  dozen  anchovies,  pounded,  the 
like  number  of  eschalots  sliced  and  pounded,  a  table-spoonful 
of  soy,  and  half  a  drachm  of  Cayenne  pepper;  let  them 
simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes ;  strain  it,  and  when  cold, 
put  it  into  bottles ;  well  corked,  and  sealed  over,  it  will  keep 
for  a  considerable  time. 

Obs.— This  is  commonly  called  Quin's  sauce,  and  was 
given  to  me  by  a  very  sagacious  sauce-maker. 

Keeping  Mustard.— (No.  427.) 

Dissolve  three  ounces  of  salt  in  a  quart  of  boiling  water, 
or  rather  vinegar,  and  pour  it  hot  upon  two  ounces  of  scraped 
horseradish;  closely  cover  down  the  jar,  and  let  it  stand 
twenty-four  hours :  strain,  and  mix  it  by  degrees  with  the 
best  Durham  flour  of  mustard,  beat  well  together  till  quite 
smooth,  and  of  the  proper  thickness;  put  into  a  wide- 
mouthed  bottle,  and  stop  it  closely.  For  the  various  ways 
to  flavour  mustard,  see  No.  370. 

Sauce  Superlative.*— (No.  429.) 

Claret,  or  port  wine,  and  mushroom  catchup  (see  No.  439). 
a  pint  of  each. 

*  We  hope  this  title  will  not  offend  those  who  may  quote  against  it  the  old 
adage,  "  that  good  appetite  is  the  best  sauce." — Allowing  this  to  be  generally  true 
which  is  a  more  candid  confession  than  could  be  expected  from  a  cook),  we  dare 
say,  the  majority  of  our  readers  will  vote  with  us,  that  there  are  many  good  things 
(fish  especially)  that  would  be  rather  insipid  without  a  little  sauce  of  another  kind, 


SAUCE   SUPERLATIVE.  279 

Half  a  pint  of  walnut  or  other  pickle  liquor. 

Pounded  anchovies,  four  ounces. 

Fresh  lemon-peel,  pared  very  thin,  an  ounce. 

Peeled  and  sliced  eschalots,  the  same. 

Scraped  horseradish,  ditto. 

Allspice,  and 

Black  pepper  powdered,  half  an  ounce  each. 

Cayenne,  one  drachm,  or  curry-powder,  three  drachms,    f 

Celery-seed  bruised,  a  drachm.  All  avoirdupois  weight. 
Put  these  into  a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  stop  it  close,  shake  it 
up  every  day  for  a  fortnight,  and  strain  it  (when  some  think 
it  improved  by  the  addition  of  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  soy,  or 
thick  browning,  see  No.  322),  and  you  will  have  a  "  delicious 
double  relish." 

%*  This  composition  is  one  of  the  "  chefs  d'ceuvre"  of 
many  experiments  I  have  made,  for  the  purpose  of  enabling 
the  good  housewives  of  Great  Britain  to  prepare  their  own 
sauces :  it  is  equally  agreeable  with  fish,  game,  poultry,  or 
ragouts,  &c.,  and  as  a  fair  lady  may  make  it  herself,  its 
relish  will  be  not  a  little  augmented,  by  the  certainty  that  all 
the  ingredients  are  good  and  wholesome. 

Obs. — Under  an  infinity  of  circumstances,  a  cook  may  be 
in  want  of  the  substances  necessary  to  make  sauce :  the 
above  composition  of  the  several  articles  from  which  the 
various  gravies  derive  their  flavour,  will  be  found  a  very 
admirable  extemporaneous  substitute.  By  mixing  a  large 
table-spoonful  with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  thickened  melted 
butter,  broth,  or  No.  252,  five  minutes  will  finish  a  boat  of 
very  relishing  sauce,  nearly  equal  to  drawn  gravy,  and  as 
likely  to  put  your  lingual  nerves  into  good  humour  as  any 
thing  I  know. 

To  make  a  boat  of  sauce  for  poultry,  &c.  put  a  piece  of 
butter  about  as  big  as  an  egg  into  a  stew-pan,  set  it  on 
the  fire;  when  it  is  melted,  put  to  it  a  table-spoonful  oi' 
flour ;  stir  it  thoroughly  together,  and  add  to  it  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  saucey  and  by  degrees  about  half  a  pint  of 
broth,  or  boiling  water,  let  it  simmer  gently  over  a  slow  fire 
for  a  few  minutes,  skim  it  and  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and 
it  is  ready.  '••'*•  '' 


'  Wherefore  did  Nature  pour  her  bounties  forth. 
With  such  a  fuU  and  ^withdrawing  hand, 
Covering  the  earth  with  odours,  fruits,  and  flock?, 
Thronging  the  sea  with  spawn  innumerable ; 
But  all  to  please  and  sate  the  cuxioua  taste  1" 

MILTON. 


280  ESSENCE  OF  ANCHOVY. 

Quintessence  of  Anchvvy.— (No.  433.) 

The  goodness  of  this  preparation  depends  almost  entirely 
on  having  fine  mellow  fish,  that  have  been  in  pickle  long 
enough  (i.  e.  about  twelve  months)  to  dissolve  easily,  yet 
are  not  at  all  rusty. 

Choose  those  that  are  in  the  state  they  come  over  in,  not 
such  as  have  been  put  into  fresh  pickle,  mixed  with  red 
paint,*  which  some  add  to  improve  the  complexion  of  the 
fish;  it  has  been  said,  that  others  have  a  trick  of /putting 
anchovy  liquor  on  pickled  sprats  ;f  you  will  easily  discover 
this  by  washing  one  of  them,  and  tasting  the  flesh  of  it, 
which  in  the  fine  anchovy  is  mellow,  red,  and  high-flavoured, 
and  the  bone  moist  and  oily.  Make  only  as  much  as  will 
soon  be  used,  the  fresher  it  is  the  better. 

Put  ten  or  twelve  anchovies  into  a  mortar,  and  pound 
them  to  a  pulp ;  put  this  into  a  very  clean  iron,  or  silver,  or 
very  well  tinned  saucepan ;  then  put  a  large  table-spoonful 
of  cold  spring-water  (we  prefer  good  vinegar)  into  the 
mortar ;  shake  it  round,  and  pour  it  to  the  pounded  anchovies, 
set  them  by  the  side  of  a  slow  fire,  very  frequently  stirring 
them  together  till  they  are  melted,  which  they  will  be  in  the 
course  of  five  minutes.  Now  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  drachm 
of  good  Cayenne  pepper  (No.  404),  and  let  it  remain  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  longer ;  then,  while  it 
is  warm,  rub  it  through  a  hair-sieve,!,  with  the  back  of  a 
wooden  spoon. 

The  essence  of  anchovy,  which  is  prepared  for  the  com- 
mittee of  taste,  is  made  with  double  the  above  quantity  of 
water,  as  they  are  of  opinion  that  it  ought  to  be  so  thin  as 
not  to  hang  about  the  sides  of  the  bottle ;  when  it  does,  the 
large  surface  of  it  is  soon  acted  upon  by  the  air,  and  becomes 
rancid  and  spoils  all  the  rest  of  it. 

A  roll  of  thin-cut  lemon-peel  infused  with  the  anchovy, 
imparts  a  fine,  fresh,  delicate,  aromatic  flavour,  which  is 
very  grateful;  this  is  only  recommended  when  you  mako 
sauce  for  immediate  use ;  it  will  keep  much  better  without : 
if  you  wish  to  acidulate  it,  instead  of  water  make  it  with 
artificial  lemon-juice  (No.  407*),  or  add  a  little  of  GoxwelPs. 
concrete  acid  to  it. 

*  "  Several  samples  which  we  examined  of  this  fish  sauce,  have  been  found 
contaminated  with  lead."— See  Accusi  on  Adulteration,  page  328. 

t  They  may  do  very  well  for  common  palates ;  but  to  imitate  the  fine  flavour  01 
the  Gorgona  fish,  so  as  to  impose  upon  a  well-educated  gourmand,  still  remains  in 
the  catalogue  of  the  sauce-maker's  desiderata. 

J  The  economist  may  take  the  thick  remains  that  wont  pass  through  the  sieve. 
and  pound  it  with  some  flour,  and  make  anchovy  paste,  or  powder.  See  Nos,  434 
and  -135. 


ESSENCE    OF   ANCHOVY.  281 

Obs. — The  above  is  the  proper  way  to  perfectly  dissolve 
anchovy,*  and  to  incorporate  it  with  the  water ;  which,  if 
completely  saturated,  will  continue  suspended. 

To  prevent  the  separation  of  essence  of  anchovy,  and 
give  it  the  appearance  of  being  fully  saturated  with  fish, 
various  other  expedients  have  been  tried,  such  as  dissolving 
the  fish  in  thin  water  gruel,  or  barley-water,  or  thickening 
it  with  mucilage,  flour,  &c. :  when  any  of  these  things 
are  added,  it  does  not  keep  half  so  well  as  it  does  without 
them;  and  to  preserve  it,  they  overload  it  with  Cayenne 
pepper. 

MEM. — You  cannot  make  essence  of  anchovy  half  so 
cheap  as  you  can  buy  it.  Thirty  prime  fish,  weighing  a 
pound  and  a  quarter,  and  costing  4s.  6tZ.,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water,  made  me  only  half  a  pint  of  essence ; 
you  may  commonly  buy  that  quantity  ready-made  for  2s.,  and 
we  have  seen  an  advertisement  offering  it  for  sale  as  low  as 
2s.  6d.  per  quart. 

It  must  be  kept  very  closely  stopped;  \vhen  you  tap  a 
bottle  of  sauce,  throw  away  the  old  perforated  cork,  and  put 
in  a  new  taper  velvet  cork;  if  the  air  gets  to  it,  the  fish  takes 
the  rust,f  and  it  is  spoiled  directly. 

Essence  of  anchovy  is  sometimes  coloured^  with  bole 
armeniac,  Venice  red,  &c;  but  all  these  additions  dete- 
riorate the  flavour  of  the  sauce,  and  the  palate  and  stomach 
suffer  for  the  gratification  of  the  eye,  which,  in  culinary 
concerns,  will  never  be  indulged  by  the  sagacious  gour- 
mand at  the  expense  of  these  two  primum  mobiles  of  his 
pursuits. 

***  Essence  of  anchovy  is  sometimes  made  with  sherry 
or  Madeira  wine,  or  good  mushroom  catchup  (No.  439), 
instead  of  water.  If  you  like  the  acid  flavour,  add  a  little 
citric  acid,  or  dissolve  them  in  good  vinegar. 

N.B.  This  is  infinitely  the  most  convenient  way  of  using 
anchovy,  as  each  guest  may  mix  sauce  for  himself,  and 
make  it  strong  or  weak,  according  to  his  own  taste. 

It  is  also  much  more  economical,  as  plain  melted  butter 
(No.  256)  serves  for  other  purposes  at  table. 

*  Epicure  Q.UIN  used  to  say,  "  Of  all  the  banns  of  marriage  I  ever  heard,  none 
gave  me  half  such  pleasure  as  the  union  of  delicate  ANN-CHOW  with  good  JOHN- 
DORY." 

T  "Rust  in  anchovies,  if  I  'm  not  mistaken, 
Is  as  bad  as  rust  in  steel,  or  rust  in  bacon." 

YOUNG'S  Epicure,  page  14. 

|  If  you  are  not  contented  with  the  natural  colour,  break  some  lobsters'  eggs  into 
if,  and  you  will  not  only  heighten  the  complexion  of  your  sauce,  but  improve  il* 
flavour.  This  is  the  only  rouge  we  can  recommend.  See  note  to  No.  284. 

A  a  2 


282  CATCHUPS. 

Anchovy  Paste,  or  le  Beurre  d'Anchois.-- (No.  434.) 

Pound  them  in  a  mortar;  then  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve ; 
pot  it,  cover  it  with  clarified  butter,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool 
place. 

N.B.  If  you  have  essence  of  anchovy,  you  may  make 
anchovy  paste  extempore,  by  rubbing  the  essence  with  as 
much  flour  as  will  make  a  paste.  Mem.—  This  is  merely 
mentioned  as  the  means  of  making  it  immediately ;  it  will 
not  keep. 

Obs.— This  is  sometimes  made  stiffer  and  hotter  by  the 
addition  of  a  little  flour  of  mustard,  a  pickled  walnut,  spice 
(No.  460),  curry  powder  (No.  455),  or  Cayenne;  and  it  then 
becomes  a  rival  to  "  la  veritable  sauce  cTenfer"  (No.  528"),  or 
vatt  a  la  diable  for  deviling  biscuits  (No.  574),  grills  (No. 
538),  &c.  It  is  an  excellent  garnish  for  fish,  put  in  pats 
round  the  edge  of  the  dish,  or  will  make  anchovy  toast  (No. 
573),  or  devil  a  biscuit  (No.  574),  &c.  in  high  style. 

Anchovy  Powder. — (No.  435.) 

Pound  the  fish  in  a  mortar,  rub  them  through  a  sieve,  and 
make  them  into  a  paste  with  dried  flour,  roll  it  into  thin 
cakes,  and  dry  them  in  a  Dutch  oven  before  a  slow  fire ; 
pounded  to  a  fine  powder,  and  put  into  a  well-stopped  bottle, 
it  will  keep  for  years ;  it  is  a  very  savoury  relish,  sprinkled 
on  bread  and  butter  for  a  sandwich,  &c.  See  Oyster  Powder 
(No.  280). 

Obs. — To  this  may  be  added  a  small  portion  of  Cayenne 
pepper,  grated  lemon-peel,  and  citric  acid. 

Walnut  Catchup.— (No.  438.) 

Take  six  half-sieves  of  green  walnut-shells,  put  them  into 
a  tub,  mix  them  up  well  with  common  salt,  (from  two  to 
three  pounds,)  let  them  stand  for  six  days,  frequently  beating 
and  mashing  them ;  by  this  time  the  shells  become  soft  and 
pulpy ;  then  by  banking  it  up  on  one  side  of  the  tub,  and  at 
the  same  time  by  raising  the  tub  on  that  side,  the  liquor  will 
drain  clear  off  to  the  other ;  then  take  that  liquor  out :  the 
mashing  and  banking-up  may  be  repeated  as  often  as  liquor 
is  found.  The  quantity  will  be  about  six  quarts.  When 
done,  let  it  be  simmered  in  an  iron  boiler  as  long  as  any 
scum  arises ;  then  bruise  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ginger,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  allspice,  two  ounces  of  long  pepper, 
two  ounces  of  cloves,  with  the  above  ingredients;  let  it 
slowly  boil  for  half  an  hour ;  when  bottled,  let  an  equal 


CATCHUPS.  283 

quantity  of  the  spice  go  into  each  bottle ;  when  corked,  let 
the  bottles  be  filled  quite  up :  cork  them  tight,  seal  them 
over,  and  put  them  into  a  cool  and  dry  place  for  one  year 
before  they  are  used. 

N.B.  For  the  above  we  are  indebted  to  a  respectable  oil- 
man, who  has  many  years  proved  the  receipt. 

Mushroom  Catchup. — (No.  439.) 

If  you  love  good  catchup,  gentle  reader,  make  it  your- 
self,* after  the  following  directions,  and  you  will  have  a 
delicious  relish  for  made-dishes,  ragouts,  soups,  sauces,  or 
hashes. 

Mushroom  gravy  approaches  the  nature  and  flavour  of 
meat  gravy,  more  than  any  vegetable  juice,  and  is  the  super- 
lative substitute  for  it:  in  meagre  soups  and  extempore 
gravies,  the  chemistry  of  the  kitchen  has  yet  contrived  to 
agreeably  awaken  the  palate,  and  encourage  the  appetite. 

A  couple  of  quarts  of  double  catchup,  made  according  to 
the  following  receipt,  will  save  you  some  score  pounds  of 
meat,  besides  a  vast  deal  of  time  and  trouble ;  as  it  will  fur- 
nish, in  a  few  minutes,  as  good  sauce  as  can  be  made  for 
either  fish,  flesh,  or  fowl.  See  No.  307. 

I  believe  the  following  is  the  best  way  of  extracting  and 
preparing  the  essence  of  mushrooms,  so  as  to  procure  and 
preserve  their  flavour  for  a  considerable  length  of  time. 

Look  out  for  mushrooms  from  the  beginning  of  Sep- 
tember. 

Take  care  they  are  the  right  sort,  and  fresh  gathered. 
Full-grown  flaps  are  to  be  preferred :  put  a  layer  of  these 
at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  earthen  pan,  and  sprinkle  them  with 
salt ;  then  another  layer  of  mushrooms,  and  some  more  salt 
on  them ;  and  so  on  alternately,  salt  and  mushrooms :  let 
them  remain  two  or  three  hours,  by  which  time  the  salt  will 
have  penetrated  the  mushrooms,  and  rendered  them  easy  to 
break ;  then  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  or  mash  them  well  with 
your  hands,  and  let  them  remain  for  a  couple  of  days,  not 
longer,  stirring  them  up  and  mashing  them  well  each  day; 
then  pour  them  into  a  stone  jar,  and  to  each  quart  add  an 
ounce  and  a  half  of  whole  black  pepper,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  allspice ;  stop  the  jar  very  close,  and  set  it  in  a  stew-pan 
of  boiling  water,  and  keep  it  boiling  for  two  hours  at  least. 

*  "The  mushrooms  employed  for  preparing  ready-made  catchup,  are  generally 
those  which  are  in  a  putrefactive  state.  In  a  few  days  after  those  fungi  have  been 
gathered,  they  become  the  habitations  of  myriads  of  insects." — ACCUJI  on  Culinarv 
Poisons,  12mo.  1820,  p.  350. 


-1 


284  CATCHUPS. 

Take  out  the  jar,  and  pour  the  juice  clear  from  the  settlings 
through  a  hair-sieve  (without  squeezing*  the  mushrooms) 
into  a  clean  stew-pan ;  let  it  boil  very  gently  for  half  an  hour : 
those  who  are  for  superlative  catchup,  will  continue  the 
boiling  till  the  mushroom-juice  is  reduced  to  half  the  quan- 
tity ;  it  may  then  be  called  double  cat-sup  or  dog-sup. 

There  are  several  advantages  attending  this  concentra- 
tion ;  it  will  keep  much  better,  and  only  half  the  quantity  be 
required;  so  you  can  flavour  sauce,  &c.  without  thinning  it : 
neither  is  this  an  extravagant  way  of  making  it,  for  merely 
the  aqueous  part  is  evaporated;  skim  it  well,  and  pour  it 
into  a  clean  dry  jar,  or  jug;  cover  it  close,  and  let  it  stand  ijt 
a  cool  place  till  next  day ;  then  pour  it  off  as  gently  as  pos- 
sible (so  as  not  to  disturb  the  settlings  at  the  bottom  of  the 
jug,)  through  a  tamis,  or  thick  flannel  bag,  till  it  is  perfectly 
clear;  add  a  table-spoonful  of  good  brandy  to  each  pint  of 
catchup,  and  let  it  stand  as  before ;  a  fresh  sediment  will  be 
deposited,  from  which  the  catchup  is  to  be  quietly  poured  off, 
and  bottled  in  pints  or  half  pints  (which  have  been  washed 
with  brandy  or  spirit) :  it  is  best  to  keep  it  in  such  quantities 
as  are  soon  used. 

Take  especial  care  that  it  is  closely  corked,  and  sealed 
down,  or  dipped  in  bottle  cement. 

If  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  it  may  be  preserved  for  a  long 
time ;  but  if  it  be  badly  corked,  and  kept  in  a  damp  place, 
it  will  soon  spoil. 

Examine  it  from  time  to  time,  by  placing  a  strong  light 
behind  the  neck  of  the  bottle,  and  if  any  pellicle  appears 
about  it,  boil  it  up  again  with  a  few  peppercorns. 

We  have  ordered  no  more  spice,  &c.  than  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  feed  the  catchup,  and  keep  it  from  ferment- 
ing, &c. 

The  compound,  commonly  called  catchup,  is  generally  an 
injudicious  combination  of  so  many  different  tastes,  that  the 
flavour  of  the  mushroom  is  overpowered  by  a  farrago  of 
garlic,  eschalot,  anchovy,  mustard,  horseradish,  lemon-peel  4 
beer,  wine,  spice,  &c. 

Obs. — A  table-spoonful  of  double  catchup  will  impregnate 
half  a  pint  of  sauce  with  the  full  flavour  of  mushroom,  in 
much  greater  perfection  than  either  pickled  or  powder  of 
mushrooms. 

*  The  squeezings  are  the  perquisite  of  the  cook,  to  make  sauce  for  the  second 
table :  do  not  deprive  her  of  it ;  it  is  the  most  profitable  save-all  you  can  give  hei , 
and  will  enable  her  to  make  up  a  good  family  dinner,  with  what  Would  otherwise 
be  wasted.  After  the  mushrooms  have  been  squeezed,  dry  them  in  the  Dutch  oven, 
and  make  mushroom  powder. 


CATCHUPS.  285 

Quintessence  of  Mushrooms.— (No.  440.) 

This  delicate  relish  is  made  by  sprinkling  a  little  salt  over 
either  flap  or  button  mushrooms ;  three  hours  after,  mash 
them;  next  day,  strain  off  the  liquor  that  will  flow  from 
them ;  put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  and  boil  it  till  it  is  reduced  to 
half. 

It  will  not  keep  long,  but  is  preferable  to  any  of  the 
catchups,  which,  in  order  to  preserve  them,  must  have  spice, 
&c.,  which  overpowers  the  flavour  of  the  mushrooms. 

An  artificial  mushroom  bed  will  supply  this  all  the  year 
round. 

To  make  sauce  with  this,  see  No.  307. 

Oyster  Catchup.— (No.  441.) 

Take  fine  fresh  Milton  oysters ;  wash  them  in  their  own 
liquor ;  skim  it ;  pound  them  in  a  marble  mortar ;  to  a  pint  of 
oysters  add  a  pint  of  sherry ;  boil  them  up,  and  add  an  ounce 
of  salt,  two  drachms  of  pounded  mace,  and  one  of  Cayenne ; 
let  it  just  boil  up  again ;  skim  it,  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  when  cold,  bottle  it,  cork  it  well,  and  seal  it  down, 

Obs.— See  also  No.  280,  and  Obs.  to  No.  278. 

N.B.  It  is  the  best  way  to  pound  the  salt  and  spices,  &c. 
with  the  oysters. 

06s. — This  composition  very  agreeably  heightens  the 
flavour  of  white  sauces,  and  white  made-dishes ;  and  if  you 
add  a  glass  of  brandy  to  it,  it  will  keep  good  for  a  considera- 
ble time  longer  than  oysters  are  out  of  season  in  England. 

Cockle  and  Muscle  Catchup,— (No.  442.) 

May  be  made  by  treating  them  in  the  same  way  as  the 
oysters  in  the  preceding  receipt. 

Pudding  Catchup.— (No.  446.) 

Half  a  pint  of  brandy,  "essence  of  punch"  (No.  479),  or 
"  Curagoa"  (No.  474),  or  "  Noyeau,"  a  pint  of  sherry,  an 
ounce  of  thin-pared  lemon-peel,  half  an  ounce  of  mace,  and 
steep  them  for  fourteen  days,  then  strain  it,  and  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  capillaire,  or  No.  476.  This  will  keep 
for  years,  and,  mixed  with  melted  butter,  is  a  delicious  relish 
to  puddings  and  sweet  dishes.  See  Pudding  Sauce,  No.  269, 
;md  the  Justice's  Orange  Syrup,  No.  392: 


286  POTATO  FLOUR. 

Potato*  Starch.— (No.  448.) 

Peel  and  wash  a  pound  of  full-grown  potatoes,  grate  them 
on  a  bread-grater  into  a  deep  dish,  containing  a  quart  of 
clear  water ;  stir  it  well  up,  and  then  pour  it  through  a  hair- 
sieve,  and  leave  it  ten  minutes  to  settle,  till  the  water  is  quite 
clear :  then  pour  off  the  water,  and  put  a  quart  of  fresh 
water  to  it ;  stir  it  up,  let  it  settle,  and  repeat  this  till  the 
water  is  quite  clear ;  you  will  at  last  find  a  fine  white  powder 
at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  (The  criterion  of  this  process 
being  completed,  is  the  purity  of  the  water  that  comes  from 
it  after  stirring  it  up.)  Lay  this  on  a  sheet  of  paper  in  a  hair- 
sieve  to  dry,  either  in  the  sun  or  before  the  fire,  and  it  is  ready 
for  use,  and  in  a  well-stopped  bottle  will  keep  good  for  many 
months. 

If  this  be  well  made,  half  an  ounce  (i.  e.  a  table-spoonful) 
of  it  mixed  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water,  and  stirred 
into  a  soup  or  sauce,  just  before  you  take  it  up,  Avill  thicken 
a  pint  of  it  to  the  consistence  of  cream. 

06s. — This  preparation  much  resembles  the  "  Indian  arrow 
root,"  and  is  a  good  substitute  for  it ;  it  gives  a  fulness  on 
the  palate  to  gravies  and  sauces  at  hardly  any  expense,  and 
by  some  is  used  to  thicken  melted  butter  instead  of  flour. 

As  it  is  perfectly  tasteless,  it  will  not  alter  the  flavour  of 
the  most  delicate  broth,  &c. 

Of  the  Flour  of  Potatoes. 

"  A  patent  has  been  recently  obtained  at  Paris,  a  gold  medal 
bestowed,  and  other  honorary  distinctions  granted,  for  the 
discovery  and  practice,  on  a  large  scale,  of  preparing  from 
potatoes  a  fine  flour ;  a  sago,  a  flour  equal  to  ground  rice ; 
and  a  semolina  or  paste,  of  which  lib.  is  equal  to  l^lbs.  of 
rice,  lUbs.  of  vermicelli,  or,  it  is  asserted,  Slbs.  of  raw  po- 
tatoes. 

"These  preparations  are  found  valuable  to  mix  with 
wheaten  flour  for  bread,  to  make  biscuits,  pastry,  pie-crusts, 
and  for  all  soups,  gruels,  and  panada. 

"  Large  engagements  have  been  made  for  these  prepara- 
tions with  the  French  marine,  and  military  and  other  hos- 
pitals, with  the  approbation  of  the  faculty. 


*  "  Potatoes,  in  whatever  condition,  whether  spoiled  by  frost,  germination, 
provided  they  are  raw,  constantly  afford  starch,  differing  only  in  quality,  the  round 
gray  ones  the  most ;  a  pound  producing  about  two  ounces."— PARMENTIER  mt-JVutri- 
five  Vegetables,  8vo.  p.  31. 

"  lOOlb.  of  potatoes  yield  lOlb.  of  starch."— S.  GRAY'S  Supplement  to  the  Pharma- 
topceia,  8vo.  1821,  p.  198. 


CURRY   POWDER.  287 

"  An  excellent  bread,  it  is  said,  can  be  made  of  this  flour, 
at  half  the  cost  of  wheaten  bread. 

"  Heat  having  been  applied  in  these  preparations,  the  ar- 
ticles will  keep  unchanged  for  years,  and  on  board  ship,  to 
China  and  back ;  rats,  mice,  worms,  and  insects  do  not  in- 
fect or  destroy  this  flour. 

"  Simply  mixed  with  cold  water,  they  are  in  ten  minutes 
fit  for  food,  when  fire  and  all  other  resource  may  be  wanted ; 
and  twelve  ounces  are  sufficient  for  a  day's  sustenance,  in 
case  of  necessity. 

"  The  physicians  and  surgeons  in  the  hospitals,  in  cases 
of  great  debility  of  the  stomach,  have  employed  these  pre- 
parations with  advantage. 

"  The  point  of  this  discovery  is,  the  cheapness  of  prepa- 
ration, and  the  conversion  of  a  surplus  growth  of  potatoes 
into  a  keeping  stock,  in  an  elegant,  portable,  and  salubrious 
form." 

Salad  or  piquante  Sauce  for  cold  Meat,  Fish,  #c.— (No.  453.) 
See  also  No.  372. 

Pound  together 

An  ounce  of  scraped  horseradish, 

Half  an  ounce  of  salt, 

A  table-spoonful  of  made  mustard,  No.  370, 

Four  drachms  of  minced  eschalots,  No.  409, 

Half  a  drachm  of  celery-seed,  No.  409, 

And  half  ditto  of  Cayenne,  No.  404, 

Adding  gradually  a  pint  of  burnet  (No.  399),  or  tarra- 
gon vinegar  (No.  396),  and  let  it  stand  in  a  jar  a  week,  and 
then  pass  it  through  a  sieve. 

Curry  Powder.— (No.  455.) 

Put  the  following  ingredients  in  a  cool  oven  all  night,  and 
the  next  morning  pound  them  in  a  marble  mortar,  and  rub 
them  through  a  fine  sieve. 

a. 

Coriander-seed,  three  ounces 3 

Turmeric,  three  ounces 6 

Black  pepper,  mustard,  and  ginger,  one  ounce 

of  each 8 

Allspice  and  less  cardamoms,  half  an  ounce 

of  each     .     . 5 

Cumin-seed,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce    ...  1 
Thoroughly  pound  and  mix  together,  and  keep  them  in  a 
well-stopped  bottle. 


288  EAOOUT   POWDER. 

Those  who  are  fond  of  curry  sauces,  may  sleep  three 
ounces  of  the  powder  in  a  quart  of  vinegar  or  white  wine 
for  ten  days,  and  will  get  a  liquor  impregnated  with  all  the 
flavour  of  the  powder. 

Obs. — This  receipt  was  an  attempt  to  imitate  some  of  the 
best  Indian  curry  powder,  selected  for  me  by  a  friend  at  the 
India  house :  the  flavour  approximates  to  the  Indian  powder 
so  exactly,  the  most  profound  palaticians  have  pronounced 
it  a  perfect  copy  of  the  original  curry  stuff. 

The  following  remark  was  sent  to  the  editor  by  an  East 
Indian  friend. 

"  The  ingredients  which  you  have  selected  to  form  the 
curry  powder,  are  the  same  as  are  used  in  India,  with  this 
difference  only,  that  some  of  them  are  in  a  raw  green  state, 
and  are  mashed  together,  and  afterward  dried,  powdered, 
and  sifted."  For  Curry  Sauce,  see  No.  348. 

N.B.  Chickens,  rabbits,  sweetbreads,  breasts  of  veal,  veal 
cutlets,  mutton,  lamb,  or  pork  chops,  lobster,  turbot,  soles, 
eels,  oysters,  &c.  are  dressed  curry  fashion,  see  No.  497 ;  or 
stew  them  in  No.  329  or  No.  343,  and  flavour  with  No.  455. 

Obs. — The  common  fault  of  curry  powder  is  the  too  great 
proportion  of  Cayenne  (to  the  milder  aromatics  from  which 
its  agreeable  flavour  is  derived),  preventing  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  the  curry  powder  being  used. 

Savoury  ragout  Powder. — (No.  457.) 

Salt,  an  ounce, 

Mustard,  half  an  ounce, 

Allspice,*  a  quarter  of  an  ounce, 

Black  pepper  ground,  and  lemon-peel  grated,  or  of  No.  407, 
pounded  and  sifted  fine,  half  an  ounce  each, 

Ginger,  and 

Nutmeg  grated,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  each, 

Cayenne  pepper,  two  drachms. 

Pound  them  patiently,  and  pass  them  through  a  fine  hair- 
sieve  ;  bottle  them  for  use.  The  above  articles  will  pound 
easier  and  finer,  if  they  are  dried  first  in  a  Dutch  ovenf  before 
a  very  gentle  fire,  at  a  good  distance  from  it ;  if  you  give 
them  much  heat,  the  fine  flavour  of  them  will  be  presently 

*  If  you  like  the  flavour,  and  do  not  dislike  the  expense,  instead  of  allspice,  put 
in  mace  and  cloves.  The  above  is  very  similar  to  the  powder-fort  used  in  King 
Richard  the  Second's  kitchen,  A.  D.  1390.  See  "  Pegge  Forme  of  Cury,"  p.  xxx. 

t  The  back  part  of  these  ovens  is  so  much  hotter  than  that  which  is  next  the  fire, 
that  to  dry  things  equally,  their  situation  must  be  frequently  changed,  or  those  at 
ihe  back  of  the  oven  will  be  done  too  much,  before  those  in  the  front  are  done  enough. 


HORSERADISH    POWDER,  &C.  289 

evaporated,  and  they  will  soon  get  a  strong,  rank,  empyreu- 
matic  taste. 

N.B.  Infused  in  a  quart  of  vinegar  or  wine,  they  make  a 
savoury  relish  for  soups,  sauces,  &c. 

Obs.  The  spices  in  a  ragotit  are  indispensable  to  give  it  a 
flavour,  but  not  a  predominant  one ;  their  presence  should  be 
rather  supposed  than  perceived;  they  are  the  invisible  spirit 
of  good  cookery :  indeed,  a  cook  without  spice  would  be  as 
much  at  a  loss  as  a  confectioner  without  sugar :  a  happy 
mixture  of  them,  and  proportion  to  each  other  and  the  other 
ingredients,  is  the  "  chef-d'oeuvre"  of  a  first-rate  cook. 

The  art  of  combining  spices,  &c.,  which  may  be  termed 
the  "  harmony  of  flavours,"  no  one  hitherto  has  attempted 
to  teach :  and  "  the  rule  of  thumb"  is  the  only  guide  that 
experienced  cooks  have  heretofore  given  for  the  assistance 
of  the  novice  in  the  (till  now,  in  these  pages  explained,  and 
rendered,  we  hope,  perfectly  intelligible  to  the  humblest  ca- 
pacity) occult  art  of  cookery.  This  is  the  first  time  re- 
ceipts in  cookery  have  been  given  accurately  by  weight  or 
measure ! ! ! 

(See  Obs.  on  "  the  education  of  a  cook's  tongue,"  pages 
.53  and  53.) 

Pease  Powder.— (No.  458.) 

Pound  together  in  a  marble  mortar  half  an  ounce  each  of 
dried  mint  and  sage,  a  drachm  of  celery-seed,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  drachm  of  Cayenne  pepper ;  rub  them  through  a  fine 
rfieve.  This  gives  a  very  savoury  relish  to  pease  soup,  and 
to  water  gruel,  which,  by  its  help,  if  the  eater  of  it  has  not 
the  most  lively  imagination,  he  may  fancy  he  is  sipping  good 
pease  soup. 

Obs. — A  drachm  of  allspice,  or  black  pepper,  may  be 
pounded  writh  the  above  as  an  addition,  or  instead  of  the 
Cayenne. 

Horseradish  Powder.— (No.  458*.) 

The  time  to  make  this  is  during  November  and  December; 
slice  it  the  thickness  of  a  shilling,  and  lay  it  to  dry  very 
gradually  in  a  Dutch  oven  (a  strong  heat  soon  evaporates  its 
flavour) ;  when  dry  enough,  pound  it  and  bottle  it. 

Obs.  See  Horseradish  Vinegar  (No.  399*). 

Soup-herb  Powder,  or  Vegetable  Relish. — (No.  459.) 

Dried  parsley. 

Bb 


29-0  TO  DHST  SWEET  HERBS. 

Winter  savoury, 

Sweet  marjoram, 

Lemon-thyme,  of  each  two  ounces ; 

Lemon-peel,  cut  very  thin,  and  dried,  and 

Sweet  basil,  an  ounce  of  each. 

*#*  Some  add  to  the  above  bay-leaves  and  celery-seed,  a 
rlrachm  each. 

Dry  them  in  a  warm,  but  not  too  hot  Dutch  oven :  when 
quite  dried,  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  and  pass  them  through 
a  double  hair-sieve ;  put  them  in  a  bottle  closely  stopped, 
they  will  retain  their  fragrance  and  flavour  for  several 
months. 

N.B.  These  herbs  are  in  full  perfection  in  July  and  Au- 
gust (see  No.  461*).  An  infusion  of  the  above  in  vinegar  or 
wine  makes  a  good  relishing  sauce,  but  the  flavour  is  best 
when  made  with  fresh-gathered  herbs,  as  directed  in  No. 
397. 

Obs.  This  composition  of  the  fine  aromatic  herbs  is  an 
invaluable  acquisition  to  the  cook  in  those  seasons  or  situa- 
tions when  fresh  herbs  cannot  be  had ;  and  we  prefer  it  to 
the  ragout  powder,  No.  457 :  it  impregnates  sauce,  soup,  &c. 
with  as  much  relish,  and  renders  it  agreeable  to  the  palate, 
and  refreshes  the  gustatory  nerves,  without  so  much  risk  of 
offending  the  stomach,  &c. 

Soup-herb  and  Savoury  Powder,  or  Quintessence  of 
Ragout.— (No.  460.) 

Take  three  parts  of  soup-herb  powder  (No.  459)  to  one 
part  of  savoury  powder,  No.  457. 

Obs.  This  agreeable  combination  of  the  aromatic  spices 
and  herbs  should  be  kept  ready  prepared :  it  will  save  a 
.great  deal  of  time  in  cooking  ragouts,  stuffings,  forcemeat- 
baljs,  soups,  sauces,  &c. ;  kept  dry,  and  tightly  corked  down, 
its  fragrance  and  strength  may  be  preserved  undiminished 
for  some  time. 

N.B.  Three  ounces  of  the  above  will  impregnate  a  quart 
of  vinegar  or  wine  with  a  very  agreeable  relish. 

To  Dry  sweet  and  savoury  Herbs. — (No.  461.) 

For  the  following  accurate  and  valuable  information,  the 
reader  is  indebted  to  Mr.  BUTLER,  herbalist  and  seedsman 
(opposite  Henrietta  Street),  Covent  Garden  market. 

"  It  is  very  important  to  those  who  are  not  in  the  constant 
habit  of  attending  the  markets  to  know  when  the  various 
seasons  commence  for  purchasing  sweet  herbs. 


TO   DRY    SWEET    HERBS.  291 

"  All  vegetables  are  in  the  highest  state  of  perfection,  and 
fullest  of  juice  and  flavour,  just  before  they  begin  to  flower : 
the  first  and  last  crop  have  neither  the  fine  flavour,  nor  the 
perfume  of  those  which  are  gathered  in  the  height  of  the 
season ;  that  is,  when  the  greater  part  of  the  crop  of  each 
species  is  ripe. 

"  Take  care  they  are  gathered  on  a  diy  day,  by  which 
means  they  will  have  a  better  colour  when  dried.  Cleanse 
your  herbs  well  from  dirt  and  dust  ;*  cut  off  the  roots ;  sepa- 
rate the  bunches  into  smaller  ones,  and  diy  them  by  the  heat 
of  a  stove,  or  in  a  Dutch  oven  before  a  common  fire,  in  such 
quantities  at  a  time,  that  the  process  may  be  speedily  finished ; 
?.  e.  '  Kill  'em  quick,'  says  a  great  botanist ;  by  this  means 
their  flavour  will  be  best  preserved:  there  can  be  no  doubt  of 
the  propriety  of  drying  herbs,  &c.  hastily  by  the  aid  of  arti- 
ficial heat,  rather  than  by  the  heat  of  the  sun.  In  the  ap- 
plication of  artificial  heat,  the  only  caution  requisite  is  to 
avoid  burning ;  and  of  this  a  sufficient  test  is  afforded  by 
the  preservation  of  the  colour."  The  common  custom  is, 
when  they  are  perfectly  dried  to  put  them  in  bags,  and  lay 
them  in  a  dry  place ;  but  the  best  way  to  preserve  the 
flavour  of  aromatic  plants  is  to  pick  off  the  leaves  as  soon 
as  they  are  dried,  and  to  pound  them,  and  put  them  through 
a  hair-sieve,  and  keep  them  in  well-stopped  bottles. f  See 
No.  459. 

Basil  is  in  the  best  state  for  drying  from  the  middle  of 
August,  and  three  weeks  after,  see  No.  397. 

Knotted  marjoram,  from  the  beginning  of  July,  and  during 
the  same. 

Winter  savoury,  the  latter  end  of  July,  and  throughout 
August,  see  06s.  to  No.  397. 

Summer  savoury,  the  latter  end  of  July,  and  throughout 
August. 

Thyme,  lemon-thyme,  orange-thyme,!  during  June  and 
July. 

Mint,  latter  end  of  June,  and  during  July,  see  No.  398. 

Sage,  August  and  September. 

Tarragon,  June,  July,  and  August,  see  No.  396. 

Chervil,  May,  June,  and  July,  see  No.  264. 

*  This  is  sadly  neglected  by  those  who  dry  herbs  for  sale.  If  you  buy  them  ready 
diied,  before  you  pound  them,  cleanse  them  from  dirt  and  dust  by  stripping  the 
leaves  from  the  stalks,  and  rub  them  between  your  hands  over  a  hair-sieve ;  put 
them  into  the  sieve,  and  shake  them  well,  and  the  dust  will  go  through. 

t  The  common  custom  is  to  put  them  into  paper  bags,  and  lay  them  on  a.  shelf 
in  the  kitchen,  exposed  te  all  the  fumes,  steam,  and  smoke,  &c. :  thus  they  soon  lose 
Jljeir  flavour. 

j  A  delicious  herb,  that  deserves  to  be  better  known. 


293 


MAGAZINE  OF  TASTE 


Burnet,  June,  July,  and  August,  see  No.  399. 

Parsley,  May,  June,  and  July,  see  N.B.  to  No.  261. 

Fennel,  May,  June,  and  July. 

Elder  flowers,  May,  June,  and  July. 

Orange  flowers,  May,  June,  and  July. 

N.B.  Herbs  nicely  dried  are  a  very  acceptable  substitute 
\vhen  fresh  ones  cannot  be  got ;  but,  however  carefully  dried, 
the  flavour  and  fragrance  of  the  fresh  herbs  are  incomparably 
finer. 

THE  MAGAZINE  OF  TASTE.— (No.  462.) 

This  is  a  convenient  auxiliary  to  the  cook:  it  may  be 
arranged  as  a  pyramidical  epergne  for  a  dormant  in  the  centre 
of  the  table,  or  as  a  travelling  store-chest. 

The  following  sketch  will  enable  any  one  to  fit  up  an 
assortment  of  flavouring  materials  according  to  their  own 
fancy  and  palate ;  and,  we  presume,  will  furnish  sufficient 
variety  for  the  amusement  of  the  gustatory  nerves  of  a  tho- 
rough-bred grand  gourmand  of  the  first  magnitude  (if  Cayenne 
and  garlic  have  not  completely  consumed  the  sensibility  of 
his  palate),  and  consists  of  a  "  SAUCE-BOX,"  containing  four 
eight-ounce  bottles,*  sixteen  four  ounce,  and  eight  two-ounce 
bottles  :— 


1.  Pickles. 

2.  Brandy. 

3.  Curagoa  (No.  474). 
1.  Syrup  (No.  475). 

5.  Salad  sauce  (Nos.  372  and  453). 

<i.  Pudding  catchup  (No.  446). 

7.  Sauce  superlative,  or  double  relish 

(No.  429). 
3.  Walnut  pickle. 
9.  Mushroom  catchup  (No.  439). 

10.  Vinegar. 

11.  Oil. 

12.  Mustard  (see  Nos.  370  and  427). 
J3.  Salt  (see  No.  371). 

14.  Curry  powder  (No.  455). 


15.  Soy  (No.  436). 

16.  Lemon-juice. 

17.  Essence  of  anchovy  (No.  433). 

18.  Pepper. 

19.  Cayenne  (No.  405,  or  No.  406). 

20.  Soup-herb  powder  (No.  459). 

21.  Ragout  powder  (No.  457) . 

22.  Pease  powder  (No.  458). 

23.  Zest  (No.  255). 

24.  Essence  of  celery  (No.  409), 

25.  Sweet  herbs  (No.  419). 

26.  Lemon-peel  (No.  408). 

27.  Eschalot  wine  (No.  402). 

28.  Powdered  mint. 


In  a  drawer  under. 


Half  a  dozen  one  ounce  bottles. 

Weights  and  scales. 

A  graduated  glass  measure,  divided  into 

tea  and  table-spoons. 
Corkscrew. 


Nutmeg-grater. 
Table  and  tea-spoon. 
Knife  and  fork. 
A  steel,  and  a 
Small  mortar. 


*  If  the  bottles  are  square,  and  marked  to  quarter  ounces,  as  LYNE'S  graduated 
leasures  are,  it  will  save  trouble  in  compounding. 


TOAST    AND    WATER, 


293 


5 

13 

21 

6 

14 

22 

7 

15 

28 

8 

16 

24 

9 

17 

25 

10 

18 

26 

11 

19 

27  • 

12 

20 

28 

N.B.  The  portable  magazine  of  taste,  alluded  to  in  page  44, 
may  be  furnished  with  a  four-ounce  bottle  for  Cognac  (No. 
471),  a  ditto  for  Cura§oa  (No.  474),  an  ounce  bottle  for 
essence  of  anchovy  (No.  433),  and  one  of  like  size  for  mush- 
room catchup. 

Toast  and  Water.— (No.  463.) 

Cut  a  crust  of  bread  off  a  stale  loaf,  about  twice  the  thick- 
ness toast  is  usually  cut :  toast  it  carefully  until  it  be  com- 
pletely browned  all  over,  but  not  at  all  blackened  or  burnt ; 
pour  as  much  boiling  water  as  you  wish  to  make  into  drink, 
into  the  jug ;  put  the  toast  into  it,  and  let  it  stand  till  it  is 
quite  cold :  the  fresher  it  is  the  better. 

Obs. — A  roll  of  thin  fresh-cut  lemon,  or  dried  orange-peel, 
or  some  currant-jelly  (No.  475*),  apples  sliced  or  roasted, 
&c.  infused  with  the  bread,  are  grateful  additions.  N.B.  If 
the  boiling  water  be  poured  on  the  bread  it  will  break  it,  and 
make  the  drink  grouty. 

N.B.  This  is  a  refreshing  summer  drink ;  and  when  the 
proportion  of  the  fluids  is  destroyed  by  profuse  perspiration, 
may  be  drunk'plentifully.  Let  a  large  jug  be  made  early  in 
the  day,  it  will  then  become  warmed  by  the  heat  of  the  air, 
and  may  be  drunk  without  danger ;  which  water,  cold  as  it 
comes  from  the  well,  cannot  in  hot  weather.  Or, 

To  make  it  more  expeditiously,  put  the  bread  into  a  mug. 
.and  just  cover  it  with  boiling  water ;  let  it  stand  till  cold. 
Bb2 


294  TEWAHDIDDLE. 

then  fill  it  up  with  cold  spring-water,  and  pour  it  through  a 
fine  sieve. 

Obs.—The  above  is  a  pleasant  and  excellent  beverage, 
grateful  to  the  stomach,  and  deserves  a  constant  place  by  the 
bed-side. 

Cool  Tankard,  or  Beer  Cup.— (No.  464.) 

A  quart  of  mild  ale,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  one  of  brandy, 
one  of  capillaire,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  roll  of  the  peel  pared 
thin,  nutmeg  grated  at  the  top  (a  sprig  of  borrage*  or  balm), 
and  a  bit  of  toasted  bread. 

Cider  Cup,— (No.  465.) 
Is  the  same,  only  substituting  cider  for  beer. 

Flip.— (No.  466.) 

Keep  grated  ginger  and  nutmeg  with  a  little  fine  dried 
lemon-peel,  rubbed  together  in  a  mortar. 

To  make  a  quart  of  flip : — Put  the  ale  on  the  fire  to  warm, 
and  beat  up  three  or  four  eggs,  with  four  ounces  of  moist 
sugar,  a  tea-spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg  or  ginger,  and  a 
quartern  of  good  old  rum  or  brandy.  When  the  ale  is  near 
to  boil,  put  it  into  one  pitcher,  and  the  rum  and  eggs,  &c. 
into  another ;  turn  it  from  one  pitcher  to  another  till  it  is  as 
smooth  as  cream. 

N.B.  This  quantity  I  styled  one  yard  of  flannel, 

Obs. — The  above  is  set  down  in  the  words  of  the  publican 
who  gave  us  the  receipt. 

Tewahdiddle.—(No.  467.) 

A  pint  of  table  beer  (or  ale,  if  you  intend  it  for  a  supple- 
ment to  your  "  night  cap"),  a  table-spoonful  of  brandy,  and  a 
tea-spoonful  of  brown  sugar,  or  clarified  syrup  (No.  475) ;  a 
little  grated  nutmeg  or  ginger  may  be  added,  and  a  roll  of 
very  thin-cut  lemon-peel. 

06s.— -Before  our  readers  make  any  remarks  on  this  com- 
position, we  beg  of  them  to  taste  it :  if  the  materials  are 
good,  and  their  palate  vibrates  in  unison  with  our  own,  they 

*  "  BORRAGE  is  one  of  the  four  cordial  flowers ;"  it  comforts  the  heart,  cheer* 
melancholy,  and  revives  the  fainting  spirits,  says  SALMON,  in  the  45th  page  of  his 
"  Household  Companion"  London,  1710.  And  EVELYN,  in  page  13  of  his  Acetaria, 
says,  "The  sprigs  in  wine  are  of  known  virtue  to  revive  the  hypochondriac,  and 
cheer  the  hard  student."— Combined  with  the  ingredients  in  the  above  receipt,  wt 
have  frequently  observed  it  produce  all  the  cardiac  and  exhilarating  effects  as 
cribedtolt. 


RICH   RASPBERRY    WINE   OR   BRANDY.  295 

will  find  it  one  of  the  pleasantest  beverages  they  ever  put  to 
their  lips ;  and,  as  Lord  Ruthven  says,  "  this  is  a  right  gos- 
sip's cup  that  far  exceeds  all  the  ale  that  ever  Mother  Bunch 
made  in  her  life-time."  See  his  Lordship's  Experiments  in 
Cookery,  &c.  18mo.  London,  1654,  p.  215. 

Sir  Fleetwood  Shepherd's  Sack  Posset. — (No.  467*.) 

"From  famed  Barbadoes,  on  the  western  main, 
Fetch  sugar,  ounces  four— fetch  sack  from  Spain, 
A  pint, — and  from  the  eastern  Indian  coast 
Nutmeg,  the  glory  of  our  northern  toast ; 
O'er  flaming  coals  let  them  together  heat, 
Till  the  all-conquering  sack  dissolve  the  sweet ; 
O'er  such  another  fire  put  eggs  just  ten, 
Newrborn  from  tread  of  cock  and  rump  of  hen : 
Stir  them  with  steady  hand  and  conscience  pricking 
To  sen  the  untimely  end  of  ten  fine  chicken : 
From  shining  shelf  take  down  the  brazen  skillet, — 
A  quart  of  milk  from  gentle  cow  will  fill  it. 
When  boiled  and  cold,  put  milk  and  sack  to  eggs, 
Unite  them  firmly  like  the  triple  league, 
And  on  the  fire  let  them  together  dwell 
Till  Miss  sing  twice— you  must  not  kiss  and  tell— 
Each  lad  and  lass  take  up  a  silver  spoon, 
And  fall  on  fiercely  like  a  starved  dragoon." 

To  bottle  Beer.— (No.  468.) * 

When  the  briskness  and  liveliness  of  malt  liquors  in  the 
cask  fail,  and  they  become  dead  and  vapid,  which  they 
generally  do  soon  after  they  are  tilted ;  let  them  be  bottled. 

Be  careful  to  use  clean  and  dried  bottles ;  leave  them  un- 
stopped for  twelve  hours,  and  then  cork  them  as  closely  as 
possible  with  good  and  sound  new  corks  ;  put  a  bit  of  lump 
sugar  as  big  as  a  nutmeg  into  each  bottle  :  the  beer  will  be 
ripe, ».  e.  fine  and  sparkling,  in  about  four  or  five  weeks :  if 
the  weather  is  cold,  to  put  it  up  the  day  before  it  is  drunk, 
place  it  in  a  room  where  there  is  a  fire. 

Remember  there  is  a  sediment,  &c.  at  the  bottom  of  the 
bottles,  which  you  must  carefully  avoid  disturbing ;  so  pour 
it  off  at  once,  leaving  a  wine-glassful  at  the  bottom. 

***  If  beer  becomes  hard  or  stale,  a  few  grains  of  carbonate 
of  potash  added  to  it  at  the  time  it  is  drunk  will  correct  it, 
and  make  draught  beer  as  brisk  as  bottled  ale 

Rich  Raspberry  Wine  or  Brandy.— (No.  469.) 

Bruise  the  finest  ripe  raspberries  with  the  back  of  a  spoon; 
strain  them  through  a  flannel  bag  into  a  stone  jar,  allowing 
a  pound  of  fine  powdered  loaf  sugar  to  each  quart  of  juice ; 
stir  it  well  together,  and  cover  it  down ;  let  it  stand  for  three 


£06 

days,  stirring  it  up  each  day ;  pour  off  the  clear,  and  put  two 
quarts  of  sherry,  or  one  of  Cognac  brandy,  to  each  quart  oi" 
juice ;  bottle  it  off:  it  will  be  fit  for  the  glass  in  a  fortnight, 
N.B.  Or  make  it  with  the  jelly,  No.  479. 

Liqueurs. — (No.  471.) 

We  have  very  little  to  tell  from  our  own  experience,  and 
refer  our  reader  to  "  Nouvelle  Chimie  du  Gout  et  de  VQdorat* 
ou  VArt  du  Distillateur,  du  Confiseur,  et  du  Parfumeur,  mis  a  la 
portte  de  tout  le  Monde."  Paris,  2  torn.  8vo.  1819. 

Next  to  teaching  how  to  make  good  things  at  home,  is  the 
information  where  those  things  may  be  procured  ready  made 
of  the  best  quality. 

It  is  in  vain  to  attempt  to  imitate  the  best  foreign  liqueurs, 
unless  we  can  obtain  the  pure  vinous  spirit  with  which  they 
are  made. 

Johnson  and  Co.,  foreign  liqueur  and  brandy  merchants  to 
his  majesty  and  the  royal  family,  No.  2,  Colonnade,  Pall  MalL 
are  justly  famous  for  importing  of  the  best  quality,  and  sell- 
ing in  a  genuine  state,  seventy-one  varieties  of  foreign 
liqueurs,  &c. 

Curagoa. — (No.  474.) 

Put  five  ounces  of  thin-cut  Seville  orange-peel,  that  ha? 
been  dried  and  pounded,  or,  which  is  still  better,  of  the  fresh 
peel  of  a  fresh  shaddock,  which  may  be  bought  at  the  orangf 
and  lemoii  shops  in  the  beginning  of  March,  into  a  quart  oi 
the  finest  and  cleanest  rectified  spirit ;  after  it  has  been 
infused  a  fortnight,  strain  it,  and  add  a  quart  of  syrup  (No. 
475),  and  filter.  See  the  following  receipt : 

To  make  a  Quart  of  Curagoa. 

To  a  pint  of  the  cleanest  and  strongest  rectified  spirit,  add 
two  drachms  and  a  half  of  the  sweet  oil  of  orange-peel ; 
shake  it  up :  dissolve  a  pound  of  good  lump  sugar  in  a  pint 
of  cold  water ;  make  this  into  a  clarified  syrup  (No.  475) : 
which  add  to  the  spirit :  shake  it  up,  and  let  it  stand  till  the 
following  day :  then  line  a  funnel  with  a  piece  of  muslin,  and 
that  with  filtering-paper,  and  filter  it  two  or  three  times  till 
it  is  quite  bright.  This  liqueur  is  an  admirable  cordial ;  and 
a  tea-spoonful  in  a  tumbler  of  water  is  a  very  refreshing 
summer  drink,  and  a  great  improvement  to  punch. 


LEMONADE    IN   A    MINUTK.  297 

Clarified  Syrup.— -(No.  475.) 

Break  into  bits  two  pounds  (avoirdupois)  of  double  refined 
lump  sugar,  and  put  it  into  a  clean  stew-pan  (that  is  well 
tinned),  with  a  pint  of  cold  spring- water ;  when  the  sugar  is 
dissolved,  set  it  over  a  moderate  fire :  beat  about  half  the 
white  of  an  egg,  put  it  to  the  sugar  before  it  gets  warm,  and 
stir  it  well  together.  Watch  it ;  and  when  it  boils  take  off 
the  scum ;  keep  it  boiling  till  no  scum  rises,  and  it  is  perfectly 
clear ;  then  run  it  through  a  clean  napkin  :  put  it  into  a  close 
stopped  bottle ;  it  will  keep  for  months,  and  is  an  elegant 
article  on  the  sideboard  for  sweetening. 

Obs. — The  proportion  of  sugar  ordered  in  the  above  syrup  is 
a  quarter  pound  more  than  that  directed  in  the  Pharmacopoeia 
of  the  London  College  of  Physicians.  The  quantity  of  sugar 
must  be  as  much  as  the  liquor  is  capable  of  keeping  dissolved 
•when  cold,  or  it  will  ferment,  and  quickly  spoil :  if  kept  in  a 
temperate  degree  of  heat,  the  above  proportion  of  sugar  may 
be  considered  the  basis  of  all  syrups. 

Capillaire.—(No.  476.) 

To  a  pint  of  clarified  syrup  add  a  wine-glass  of  Cura§oa 
(No.  474) ;  or  dissolve  a  drachm  of  oil  of  Neroli  in  two 
ounces  of  rectified  spirit,  and  add  a  few  drops  of  it  to  clari- 
fied syrup. 

Lemonade  in  a  Minute. — (No.  477.) 

Pound  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  (avoirdupois)  of  citric,  t.  e. 
crystallized  lemon  acid,*  with  a  few  drops  of  quintessence 
of  lemon-peel  (No.  408),  and  mix  it  by  degrees  with  a  pint 
of  clarified  syrup  (No.  475),  or  capillaire. 

For  superlative  syrup  of  lemons,  see  No.  391. 

Obs. — The  proportion  of  acid  to  the  syrup,  was  that 
selected  (from  several  specimens)  by  the  committee  of  taste. 
We  advise  those  who  are  disposed  to  verify  our  receipt,  to 
mix  only  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  syrup  first,  and  add  the 
other  quarter  if  they  find  it  too  acid. 

If  you  have  none  of  No.  408,  flavour  your  syrup  with  thin- 
cut  lemon-peel,  or  use  syrup  of  lemon-peel  (No.  393). 

A  table-spoonful  of  this  in  a  pint  of  water  will  immediately 
produce  a  very  agreeable  sherbet ;  the  addition  of  rum  or 
brandy  will  convert  this  into 

*  Tartaric  is  only  half  the  price  of  citric  acid ;  but  it  is  very  inferior  in  flavour, 
•fee. ;  and  those  who  prepare  this  syrup  for  home  consumption,  will  always  usfc 
Jhe  citric. 


298  CURRANT,    GRAPE,    &C.    SULLY. 

Punch  directly.— (No.  478.) 

Shrub,  or  Essence  of  Punch.— (No.  479.) 

Brandy  or  rum,  flavoured  with  No.  477,  will  give  you  very 
good  extempore  "  essence  of  punch." 

Obs. — The  addition  of  a  quart  of  Sherry  or  Madeira  makes 
"punch  royal;"  if,  instead  of  wine,  the  above  quantity  of 
water  be  added,  it  will  make  "  punch  for  chambermaids," 
according  to  SALMON'S  Cookery,  8vo.  London,  1710.  See 
page  405;  and  No.  268  in  NOTT'S  Cook's  Dictionary,  8vo.  172-1. 

White,  Red,  or  Black  Currant,  Grape,  Raspberry,  &rc.  Jelly.* 
(No.  479*.) 

Are  all  made  precisely  in  the  same  manner.  When  the 
fruit  is  full  ripe,  gather  it  on  a  dry  day :  as  soon  as  it  is  nicely 
picked,  put  it  into  a  jar,  and  cover  it  down  very  close. 

Set  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  about  three  parts  filled  with  cold 
•water ;  put  it  on  a  gentle  fire,  and  let  it  simmer  for  about 
half  an  hour.  Take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  pour  the  con- 
tents of  the  jar  into  a  jelly-bag :  pass  the  juice  through  a 
second  time ;  do  not  squeeze  the  bag. 

To  each  pint  of  juice  add  a  pound  and  a  half  of  very  good 
lump  sugar  pounded ;  when  it  is  dissolved,  put  it  into  a  pre- 
serving-pan ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  gently ;  stirring  and 
skimming  it  the  whole  time  (about  thirty  or  forty  minutes), 
i.  e.  till  no  more  scum  rises,  and  it  is  perfectly  clear  and  fine  : 
pour  it  while  warm  into  pots ;  and  when  cold,  cover  them 
with  paper  wetted  in  brandy. 

Half  a  pint  of  this  jelly,  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  brandy  or 
vinegar,  will  give  you  excellent  currant  or  raspberry  brandy 
or  vinegar.  To  make  sweet  sauce,  see  No.  346. 

O6s.— Jellies  from  other  fruits  are  made  in  the  same  way, 
and  cannot  be  preserved  in  perfection  without  plenty  of  good 
sugar. 

Those  who  wish  jelly  to  turn  out  very  stiff,  dissolve  isin- 
glass in  a  little  water,  strain  through  a  sieve,  and  add  it  in  the 
proportion  of  half  an  ounce  to  a  pint  of  juice,  and  put  it  in 
with  the  sugar. 

The  best  way  is  the  cheapest.  Jellies  made  with  too  small 
a  proportion  of  sugar,  require  boiling  so  long ;  there  is  much 
more  waste  of  juice  and  flavour  by  evaporation  than  the  due 
quantity  of  sugar  costs ;  and  they  neither  look  nor  taste  hall 

*  The  native  blackberry  of  this  country  makes  a  very  fine  jelly,  and  is  medicinal 
i  n  bowel  complaints  of  children.  A . 


299 

so  delicate,  as  when  made  with  a  proper  proportion  of  sugar, 
and  moderate  boiling. 

Mock  Arrack.— (No.  480.) 

Dissolve  two  scruples  of  flowers  of  benjamin  in  a  quark 
of  good  rum,  and  it  will  immediately  impart  to  it  the  inviting 
fragrance  of  '*  Vauxhall  nectar." 

Calves'-Feet  Jelly.— (No.  481.) 

Take  four  calves'  feet  (not  those  which  are  sold  at  tripe- 
shops,  which  have  been  boiled  till  almost  all  the  gelatine  is 
extracted ;  but  buy  them  at  the  butcher's),  slit  them  in  two, 
take  away  the  fat  from  between  the  claws,  wash  them  well 
in  lukewarm  water ;  then  put  them  in  a  large  stew-pan,  and 
cover  them  with  water :  when  the  liquor  boils,  skim  it  well, 
and  let  it  boil  gently  six  or  seven  hours,  that  it  may  he- 
reduced  to  about  two  quarts ;  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  skim  off  all  the  oily  substance  which  is  on  the  surface 
of  the  liquor. 

If  you  are  not  in  a  hurry,  it  is  better  to  boil  the  calves'  feet 
the  day  before  you  make  the  jelly ;  as  when  the  liquor  is  cold, 
the  oily  part  being  at  the  top,  and  the  other  being  firm,  with 
pieces  of  kitchen  paper  applied  to  it,  you  may  remove  every 
particle  of  the  oily  substance,  without  wasting  any  of  the 
liquor. 

Put  the  liquor  in  a  stew-pan  to  melt,  with  a  pound  of  lump 
sugar,  the  peel  of  two  lemons,  the  juice  of  six,  six  whites 
and  shells  of  eggs  beat  together,  and  a  bottle  of  sherry  or 
Madeira;  whisk  the  whole  together  until  it  is  on  the  boil; 
then  put  it  by  the  side  of  the  stove,  and  let  it  simmer  a  quarter 
of  an  hour;  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag:  what  is  strained 
first  must  be  poured  into  the  bag  again,  until  it  is  as  bright 
and  as  clear  as  rock-water ;  then  put  the  jelly  in  moulds,  to 
be  cold  and  firm:  if  the  weather  is  too  warm,  it  requires 
some  ice. 

06s. — When  it  is  wished  to  be  very  stiff,  half  an  ounce  of 
isinglass  may  be  added  when  the  wine  is  put  in. 

It  may  be  flavoured  by  the  juice  of  various  fruits,  and 
spices,  &c.  and  coloured  with  saffron,  cochineal,  red  beet 
juice,  spinage  juice,  claret,  &c.;  and  it  is  sometimes  made 
with  cherry  brandy,  or  noyeau  rouge,  or  Curagoa  (No.  474), 
or  essence  of  punch  (No.  479),  instead  of  wine. 

N.B.  Ten  shank  bones  of  mutton,  which  may  be  bought 
for  2£d.,  will  give  as  much  jelly  as  a  calf's  foot,  which  costs 
a  shilling.  See  pages  225,  226  of  this  work. 


300  MADE   DISHES,    &<:. 


MADE    DISHES,  &C. 

Receipts  for  economical  Made  Dishes,  written  for  the  CookV 
Oracle,  by  an  accomplished  English  Lady. — (No.  483.) 

THESE  experiments  have  arisen  from  my  aversion  to  cold 
meat,  and  my  preference  for  what  are  termed  French  dishes  ; 
with  which,  by  a  certain  management,  I  think  I  can  furnish 
my  table  at  far  less  expense  than  is  generally  incurred  in 
getting  up  a  plain  dinner. 

Gravy  or  soup  meats  I  never  buy ;  and  yet  am  seldom 
without  a  good  provision  of  what  is  technically  denominated 
stock. 

When,  as  it  frequently  happens,  we  have  ham  dressed ;  if 
the  joint  be  above  the  Aveight  of  seven  pounds,  I  have  it  cut 
in  half,  and  prepared  in  the  following  manner :  first,  ensure 
that  it  has  been  properly  soaked,  scraped,  and  cleaned  to  i\ 
nicety ;  then  put  it  into  an  earthen  vessel,  as  near  its  own 
size  as  possible,  with  just  as  much  water  as  will  cover  it;  to 
which  add  four  onions,  a  clove  of  garlic,  half  a  dozen  escha- 
lots, a  bay-leaf,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  half  a  dozen  cloves, 
a  few  peppercorns  and  allspice :  this  should  be  well  closed, 
and  kept  simmering  about  three  hours.  It  is  then  served 
with  raspings  or  with  glazing,  the  rind  having  first  been 
taken  off  neatly.  The  liquor  is  strained,  and  kept  till  poul- 
try of  any  sort,  or  meat,  is  boiled ;  when  the  liquor  in  which 
they  have  been  dressed  should  be  added  to  it,  and  boiled  down 
fast  till  reduced  to  about  three  pints ;  when  cold,  it  will  be  a 
highly  flavoured,  well-coloured  jelly,*  and  ready  for  sauce 
for  all  kinds  of  ragouts  and  hashes,  &c.  &c. 

A  fillet  of  veal  I  divide  into  three  parts ;  the  meat  before 
it  is  skewered,  will  of  itself  indicate  where  the  partition  i.s 
natural,  and  will  pull  asunder  as  you  would  quarter  an 
orange  ;  the  largest  piece  should  be  stuffed  with  No.  374  ov 
No.  375,  and  rolled  up,  compactly  skewered,  &c.,  and  make? 
a  very  pretty  small  fillet :  the  square  flat  piece  will  either 
cut  into  cutlets  (No.  90,  or  No.  521),  or  slice  for  a  pie  ;  and 
the  thick  piece  must  be  well  larded  and  dressed  as  a  frican- 
deau ;  which  I  do  in  the  following  manner :  put  the  larded 
veal  into  a  stew-pan  just  big  enough  to  contain  it,  with  a? 
much  water  as  will  cover  it ;  when  it  has  simmered  till  deli 

*  This  may  be  still  longer  preserved  by  the  process  directed  in  No.  252. 


MADE   DISHES,  &C.  30  i 

cately  white,  and  so  tender  as  to  be  cut  with  a  spoon,  it  must 
be  taken  out  of  the  water  and  set  apart ;  and  it  will  be  ready 
to  serve  up  either  with  sorrel,  tomata,  mushrooms  (No.  305. 
or  No.  439),  or  some  of  the  above-mentioned  stock,  the 
fricandeau  being  previously  coloured  with  glazing ;  if  with 
mushrooms,  they  should  be  first  parboiled  in  salt  and  vinegar, 
and  water,  which  gives  them  flavour,  and  keeps  them  of  a 
good  colour. 

The  sirloin  of  beef  I  likewise  divide  into  three  parts ;  I 
first  have  it  nicely  boned. 

The  under  part,  or  fillet,  as  the  French  call  it,  will  dress 
(when  cut  into  slices)  excellently,  either  as  plain  steaks  (No. 
94),  curry  (No.  197),  or  it  may  be  larded  whole,  and  gently 
stewed  in  two  quarts  of  water  (a  bay-leaf,  two  onions,  their 
skins  roasted  brown,  four  cloves,  allspice,  &c.  &c.)  till  tender, 
when  it  should  be  taken  out,  drained  quite  dry,  and  put  away; 
it  is  then  ready  to  be  used  at  any  time  in  the  following- 
manner  :  season  and  dredge  it  well,  then  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan  in  which  a  piece  of  butter  has  been  previously  fried  to  a 
fine  froth ;  when  the  meat  is  sufficiently  brown,  take  it  out, 
and  throw  into  the  pan  half  a  dozen  middle-sized  onions,  to 
do  a  fine  gold  colour ;  that  accomplished,  (during  which  the 
dredger  should  be  in  constant  use,)  add  half  a  pint  of  stock, 
and  a  tea-spoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar  (No.  396),  and  let 
the  onions  stew  gently  till  nearly  tender :  the  beef  should 
then  be  returned  to  the  stew-pan,  and  the  whole  suffered  to 
simmer  till  the  meat  is  warm  through :  care  must  be  taken 
that  the  onions  dp  not  break,  and  they  should  be  served 
round  the  beef  with  as  much  sauce  as  will  look  graceful  in 
the  dish.  The  fillet  is  likewise  very  good  without  the  fried 
onions  ;  in  that  case  you  should  chop  and  mix  up  together 
an  eschalot,  some  parsley,  a  few  capers,  and  the  yelk  of 
a  hard  egg,  and  strew  them  lightly  over  the  surface  of  the 
beef. 

The  fat  end  of  the  sirloin  and  bones  should  be  put  to 
simmer  in  the  liquor  in  which  the  fillet  was  first  stewed,  and 
done  till  the  beef  looks  loose ;  it  should  then  be  put  away 
into  a  deep  vessel,  and  the  soup  strained  over  it,  whicn 
cooling  with  the  fat  upon  the  top  (thereby  excluding  the  air), 
will  keep  as  long  as  may  be  required :  when  the  soup  is  to 
be  used,  the  fat  must  be  cleared  from  it ;  a  carrot,  parsnip, 
a  head  of  celery,  a  leek,,  and  three  turnips,  cleaned  and 
scalded,  should  be  added  to  it,  and  the  whole  suffered  to 
simmer  gently  till  the  vegetables  are  quite  done,  when  they 
must  be  strained  from  the  liquor,  and  the  soup  served  up  with 
large  square  thick  pieces  of  toasted  bread. 
0  c 


302  MADE    DISHES,  &C. 

Those  who  like  a  plain  bouilli  warm  the  beef  in  the  soup, 
and  serve  it  up  with  the  turnips  and  carrots  which  had  been 
strained  before  from  the  soup.  A  white  cabbage  quartered 
is  no  bad  addition  to  the  garnish  of  the  bouilli,  or  to  the 
flavour  of  the  soup.  If  it  is  a  dressed  bouilli,  sliced  carrots 
and  button  onions  should  be  stewed  in  thickened  stock,  and 
poured  over  the  meat. 

A  neck  of  mutton  boned,  sprinkled  with  dried  sage,  pow- 
dered fine,  or  (No.  378)  seasoned,  rolled,  and  roasted,  is  very 
good.  The  bones  and  scrag  make  excellent  gravy  stewed 
down,  and  if  done  very  gently,  the  meat  is  not  bad  eating. 
The  same  herbs  should  be  put  to  it  as  to  other  stocks,  with 
the  addition  of  a  carrot ;  this  will  make  very  good  mutton 
broth.  In  short,  wherever  there  are  bones  or  trimmings  to 
be  got  out  of  any  meat  that  is  dressed  in  my  kitchen,  they 
are  made  to  contribute  towards  soup  or  gravy,  or  No.  252. 

Instead  of  roasting  a  hare,  (which  at  best  is  but  dry  food), 
stew  it,  if  young,  plain ;  if  an  old  one,  lard  it.  The  shoulders 
and  legs  should  be  taken  off,  and  the  back  cut  into  three 
pieces ;  these,  with  a  bay-leaf,  half  a  dozen  eschalots,  one. 
onion  pierced  with  four  cloves,  should  be  laid  with  as  much 
good  vinegar  as  will  cover  them,  for  twenty-four  hours,  in  a 
deep  dish.  In  the  mean  time,  the  head,  neck,  ribs,  liver, 
heart,  &c.  &c.  should  be  browned  in  frothed  butter  well 
seasoned ;  add  half  a  pound  of  lean  bacon,  cut  into  small 
pieces,  a  large  bunch  of  herbs,  a  carrot,  and  a  few  allspice  ; 
simmer  these  in  a  quart  of  water  till  it  be  reduced  to  about 
half  the  quantity,  when  it  should  be  strained,  and  those 
parts  of  the  hare  which  have  been  infused  in  the  vinegar, 
should  (with  the  whole  contents  of  the  dish)  be  added  to  it, 
and  stewed  till  quite  done.  Those  who  like  onions  may 
brown  half  a  dozen,  stew  them  in  a  part  of  the  gravy,  and 
dish  them  round  the  hare. 

When  it  comes  from  the  table,  supposing  some  to  be  left, 
the  meat  should  be  taken  from  the  bones,  and  with  a  few 
forcemeat  balls,  the  remains  of  the  gravy,  about  a  quarter  of 
a  pint  of  red  wine,  and  a  proportionable  quantity  of  water, 
it  will  make  a  very  pretty  soup ;  to  those  who  have  no  objec- 
tion to  catchup  (No.  439,)  a  spoonful  in  the  original  gravy  is 
an  improvement,  as  indeed  it  is  in  every  made  dish,  where 
the  mushroom  itself  is  not  at  command. 

Every  ragout,  in  my  opinion,  should  be  dressed  the  day 
before  it  is  wanted,  that  any  fat  which  has  escaped  tho 
skimming  spoon,  may  with  ease  be  taken  off  when  cold. 

CALF'S  HEAD. — Take  the  half  of  one,  with  the  skin  on ; 
put  it  into  a  large  stew-pan,  with  as  much  water  as  will 


MADE  DISHES,  &C.  303 

coyer  it,  a  knuckle  of  ham,  and  the  usual  accompaniments  of 
onions,  herbs,  &c.  &c.,  and  let  it  simmer  till  the  flesh  may 
be  separated  from  the  bone  with  a  spoon ;  do  so,  and  while 
still  hot,  cut  it  into  as  large  a  sized  square  as  the  piece  will 
admit  of;  the  trimmings  and  half  the  liquor  put  by  in  a 
tureen ;  to  the  remaining  half  add  a  gill  of  white  wine,  and 
reduce  the  whole  of  that  by  quick  boiling  till  it  is  again  half 
consumed,  when  it  should  be  poured  over  the  large  square 
piece  in  an  earthen  vessel,  surrounded  with  mushrooms,  white 
button  onions,  small  pieces  of  pickled  pork,  half  an  inch  in 
breadth,  and  one  and  a  half  in  length,  and  the  tongue  in 
slices,  and  simmered  till  the  whole  is  fit  to  serve  up ;  some 
browned  forcemeat  balls  are  a  pretty  addition.  After 
this  comes  from  the  table,  the  remains  should  be  cut 
into  small  pieces,  and  mixed  up  with  the  trimmings  and 
liquor,  which  (with  a  little  more  wine),  properly  thick- 
ened, will  make  a  very  good  mock  turtle  soup  for  a  future 
occasion. 

To  hash  Mutton,  &c.— (No.  484.) 

Cut  the  meat  into  slices,  about  the  thickness  of  two  shil- 
lings, trim  off  all  the  sinews,  skin,  gristle,  &c. ;  put  in 
nothing  but  what  is  to  be  eaten,  lay  them  on  a  plate,  ready ; 
prepare  your  sauce  to  warm  it  in,  as  receipt  (No.  360,  or  No. 
451,  or  No.  486),  put  in  the  meat,  and  let  it  simmer  gently 
till  it  is  thoroughly  warm :  do  not  let  it  boil,  as  that  will 
make  the  meat  tough  and  hard,*  and  it  will  be,  as  Joan 
Cromwellf  has  it,  a  harsh. 

Obs. — Select  for  your  hash  those  parts  of  the  joint  that 
are  least  done. 

MEM. — Hashing  is  a  mode  of  cookery  by  no  means  suited 
to  delicate  stomachs  :  unless  the  meat,  &c.  be  considerably 
under-done  the  first  time,  a  second  dressing  must  spoil  it,  for 
what  is  done  enough  the  first  time,  must  be  done  too  much 
the  second. 

*  Hashes  and  meats  dressed  a  second  time,  should  only  simmer  gently  till  just 
warm  through ;  it  is  supposed  they  have  been  done  very  nearly,  if  not  quite  enough, 
already ;  select  those  parts  of  the  joint  that  have  been  least  done. 

In  making  a  hash  from  a  leg  of  mutton,  do  not  destroy  the  marrow-bone  to  help 
the  gravy  of  your  hash,  to  which  it  will  make  no  perceptible  addition ;  but  saw  it 
in  two,  twist  writing-paper  round  the  ends,  and  send  it  up  on  a  plate  as  a  side  dish, 
garnished  with  sprigs  of  parsley :  if  it  is  a  roast  leg,  preserve  the  end  bone,  and  send 
it  up  between  the  marrowbones.  This  is  a  very  pretty  luncheon,  or  supper  dish. 

t  See  "  The  Court  and  Kitchen  of  ELIZABETH,  commonly  called  Joan  Cromwell." 
Ifimo.  London,  1664,  page  106. 


304  MADE   DISHES,  &C. 

To  warm  Hashes,*  Made  Dishes,  Stews,  Ragouts,  Soups,  «$•£•— - 
(No.  485.) 

Put  what  you  have  left  into  a  deep  hash-dish  or  tureen ; 
when  you  want  it,  set  this  in  a  stew-pan  of  boiling  water : 
let  it  stand  till  the  contents  are  quite  warm. 

To  hash  Beef,  4*c.— (No.  486.) 

Put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  broth,  or  water,  with  an  ounce  of 
No.  252,  or  a  large  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup,  into 
a  stew-pan  with  the  gravy  you  have  saved  that  was  left  from 
the  beef,  and  put  in  a  quarter  ounce  of  onion  sliced  very  fine, 
and  boil  it  about  ten  minutes  ;  put  a  large  table-spoonful  of 
flour  into  a  basin,  just  wet  it  with  a  little  water,  mix  it  well 
together,  and  then  stir  it  into  the  broth,  and  give  it  a  boil  for 
five  or  ten  minutes ;  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  and  it  is  ready  to 
receive  the  beef,  &c ;  let  it  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  till 
the  meat  is  warm. 

N.B.  A  tea-spoonful  of  parsley  chopped  as  fine  as  possible 
and  put  in  five  minutes  before  it  is  served  up,  is  a  great 
addition ;  others  like  half  a  wine-glass  of  port  wine,  and  a 
dessert-spoonful  of  currant  jelly. 

See  also  No.  360,  which  will  show  you  every  variety  of 
manner  of  making  and  flavouring  the  most  highly  finished 
hash  sauce,  and  Nos.  484,  485,  and  506. 

Cold  Meat  broiled,  with  Poached  Eggs.— (No.  487.) 

The  inside  of  a  sirloin  of  beef  is  best  for  this  dish,  or  a 
leg  of  mutton.  Cut  the  slices  of  even  and  equal  thickness, 
and  broil  and  brown  them  carefully  and  slightly  over  a  clear 
smart  fire,  or  in  a  Dutch  oven ;  give  those  slices  most  fire 
that  are  least  done ;  lay  them  in  a  dish  before  the  fire  to  keep 
hot,  while  you  poach  the  eggs,  as  directed  in  No.  546,  and 
mashed  potatoes  (No.  106). 

*  The  "bain-marie,"  or  water-bath  (see  note  to  No.  529),  is  the  best  utensil  t<- 
warm  up  made  dishes,  and  things  that  have  been  already  sufficiently  dressed,  as  if 
neither  consumes  the  sauce,  nor  hardens  the  meat.  If  you  have  not  a  water-bath 
a  Dutch  oven  will  sometimes  supply  the  place  of  it. 

"  Bain-marie  is  aflat  vessel  containing  boiling  water;  you  put  all  your  stew-pans 
into  the  water,  and  keep  that  water  always  very  hot,  but  it  must  not  boil :  the 
pftect  of  this  bain-marie  is  to  keep  every  thing  warm  without  altering  either  thi> 
quantity  or  the  quality,  particularly  the  quality.  When  I  had  the  honour  of  serving 
R  nobleman,  who  kept  a  very  extensive  hunting  establishment,  and  the  hour  of 
dinner  was  consequently  uncertain,  I  was  in  the  habit  of  using  bain-marie,  as  a 
certain  means  of  preserving  the  flavour  of  all  my  dishes.  If  you  keep  your  sauce, 
Or  broth,  or  soup,  by  the  fireside,  the  soup  reduces,  and  becomes  too  strong,  and  the 
sauce  thickens  as  well  as  reduces.  This  is  the  best  way  of  warming  turtle,  or  mock 
turtle  soup,  as  the  thick  part  is  always  at  the  bottom,  and  this  method  prevents  it 
troyi  burning,  and  keeps  it  always  good." — Uos's  Cookery,  page  18. 


MADE    DISHES,  &C.  305 

Oos. — This  makes  a  savoury  luncheon  or  supper,  but  is 
more  relishing-  than  nourishing,  unless  the  meat  was  under- 
done the  first  time  it  was  dressed. 

No.  307  for  sauce,  to  which  some  add  a  few  drops  of 
eschalot  wine  or  vinegar.  See  No.  402,  or  No.  439,  or  No. 
359,  warmed ;  or  Grill  Sauce  (No.  355.) 

MRS.  PHILLIPS'S  Irish  Stew.— (No.  488.) 

Take  five  thick  mutton  chops,  or  two  pounds  off  the  neck 
or  loin ;  two  pounds  of  potatoes  ;  peel  them,  and  cut  them 
in  halves ;  six  onions,  or  half  a  pound  of  onions  ;  peel  and 
slice  them  also :  first  put  a  layer  of  potatoes  at  the  bottom 
of  your  stew-pan,  then  a  couple  of  chops  and  some  of  the 
onions ;  then  again  potatoes,  and  so  on,  till  the  pan  is  quite 
full ;  a  small  spoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  about  one  and  a 
half  of  salt,  and  three  gills  of  broth  or  gravy,  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  mushroom  catchup ;  cover  all  very  close  in,  so 
as  to  prevent  the  steam  from  getting  out,  and  let  them  stew 
for  an  hour  and  a  half  on  a  very  slow  fire.  A  small  slice  of 
fyam  is  a  great  addition  to  this  dish.  The  cook  will  be  the 
best  judge  when  it  is  done,  as  a  great  deal  depends  on  the  fire* 
you  have. 

N.B.  Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  it  burn,  and  that 
it  does  not  do  too  fast. 

To  make  an  Irish  Stew,  or  Hunter's  Pie. 

Take  part  of  a  neck  of  mutton,  cut  it  into  chops,  season 
it  well,  put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  let  it  brase  for  half  an  hour, 
take  two  dozen  of  potatoes,  boil  them,  mash  them,  and 
season  them,  butter  your  mould,  and  line  it  with  the 
potatoes,  put  in  the  mutton,  bake  it  for  half  an  hour,  then 
it  will  be  done,  cut  a  hole  in  the  top,  and  add  some  good 
gravy  to  it. 

N.B.  The  above  is  the  contribution  of  Mr.  Morrison,  Of 
the  Leinster  hotel,  Dublin. 

A  good  Scotch  Haggis.— (No.  488*.) 

Make  the  haggis-bag  perfectly  clean ;  parboil  the  draught ; 
boil  the  liver  very  well,  so  as  it  will  grate ;  dry  the  meal 
before  the  fire ;  mince  the  draught  and  a  pretty  large  piece 
of  beef  very  small;  grate  about  half  of  the  liver;  mince 
plenty  of  the  suet  and  some  onions  small;  mix  all  these 
materials  very  well  together,  with  a  handful  or  two  of  the 
dried  meal;  spread  them  on  the  table,  and  season  them 
CcS 


306  MADE   DISHES,  &C. 

properly  with  salt  and  mixed  spices ;  take  any  of  the  scraps 
of  beef  that  are  left  from  mincing1,  and  some  of  the  water 
that  boiled  the  draught,  and  make  about  a  choppin  (i.  e. 
a  quart)  of  good  stock  of  it ;  then  put  all  the  haggis  meat 
into  the  bag,  and  that  broth  in  it;  then  sew  up  the  bag; 
but  be  sure  to  put  out  all  the  wind  before  you  sew  it  quite 
close.  If  you  think  the  bag  is  thin,  you  may  put  it  in  a 
cloth.  If  it  is  a  large  haggis,  it  will  take  at  least  two  hours 
boiling. 

N.B.  The  above  we  copied  verbatim  from  Mrs.  MACIVER. 
a  celebrated  Caledonian  professor  of  the  culinary  art,  who 
taught,  and  published  a  book  of  cookery,  at  Edinburgh, 
A.  D.  1787. 

Minced  Collops. 

s  "  This  is  a  favourite  Scotch  dish ;  few  families  are  with- 
out it:  it  keeps  well,  and  is  always  ready  to  make  an 
extra  dish. 

"  Take  beef,  and  chop  and  mince  it  very  small ;  to  which 
add  some  salt  and  pepper.  Put  this,  in  its  raw  state,  into 
small  jars,  and  pour  on  the  top  some  clarified  butter.  When 
intended  for  use,  put  the  clarified  butter  into  a  frying-pan, 
and  slice  some  onions  into  the  pan,  and  fry  them.  Add  a 
little  water  to  it,  and  then  put  in  the  minced  meat.  Stew  it 
well,  and  in  a  few  minutes  it  will  be  fit  to  serve  up." — 
The  Hon.  JOHN  COCHRANE'S  Seaman's  Guide,  8vo.  1797, 
page  42. 

Haricot*  Mutton.— (No.  489.) 

Cut  the  best  end  of  a  neck  or  loin  of  mutton,  that  has 
been  kept  till  tender,  into  chops  of  equal  thickness,  one  rib 
to  each  ("  les  bons  homines  de  bouche  de  Paris"  cut  two  chops 
to  one  bone,  but  it  is  more  convenient  to  help  when  there  is 
only  one ;  two  at  a  time  is  too  large  a  dose  for  John  Bull), 
trim  off  some  of  the  fat,  and  the  lower  end  of  the  chine 
bone,  and  scrape  it  clean,  and  lay  them  in  a  stew-pan,  with 
an  ounce  of  butter ;  set  it  over  a  smart  fire ;  if  your  fire  is 
not  sharp,  the  chops  will  be  done  before  they  are  coloured  : 
the  intention  of  frying  them  is  merely  to  give  them  a  very 
light  browning. 

While  the  chops  are  browning,  peel  and  boil  a  couple 
of  dozen  of  young  button  onions  in  about  three  pints  of 
water  for  about  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  set  them  by,  and 

*  Probably  a  contraction  of  "hart  ragout." 


MADE    DISHES,  &C.  307 

pour  off  the  liquor  they  were  boiled  in  into  the  stew-pan 
with  the  chops :  if  that  is  not  sufficient  to  cover  them,  add 
as  much  boiling  water  as  will ;  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises, 
and  be  careful  they  are  not  stewed  too  fast  or  too  much ; 
so  take  out  one  of  them  with  a  fish-slice,  and  try  it :  when 
they  are  tender,  which  will  be  in  about  an  hour  and  a  half, 
then  pass  the  gravy  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  set  it  in 
the  open  air  that  it  may  get  cold,  you  may  then  easily  and 
completely  skim  off  the  fat ;  in  the  mean  time  set  the  meat 
and  vegetables  by  the  fire  to  keep  hot,  and  pour  some  boiling 
water  over  the  button  onions  to  warm  them.  Have  about 
six  ounces  of  carrots,  and  eight  ounces  of  turnips,  peeled 
and  cut  into  slices,  or  shaped  into  balls  about  as  big  as  a 
nutmeg;  boil  the  carrots  about  half  an  hour,  the  turnips 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  put  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain, 
and  then  put  them  round  the  dish,  the  last  thing. 

Thicken  the  gravy  by  putting  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a 
stew-pan ;  when  it  is  melted,  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  will 
stiffen  it ;  pour  the  gravy  to  it  by  degrees,  stir  together  till  it 
boils ;  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  or  tamis  into  a  stew-pan, 
put  in  the  carrots  and  turnips  to  get  warm,  and  let  it  simmer 
gently  while  you  dish  up  the  meat  •  lay  the  chops  round  a 
dishj  put  the  vegetables  in  the  middle,  and  pour  the  thickened 
gravy  over.  Some  put  in  capers,  &c.  minced  gherkins,  &c. 

06s. — Rump-steaks,  veal-cutlets,  and  beef-tails,  make  ex- 
cellent dishes  dressed  in  the  like  manner. 

Mutton-Chops  delicately  stewed,  and  good  Mutton  Broth, 
(No.  490.) 

Put  the  chops  into  a  stew-pan  with  cold  water  enough  to 
cover  them,  and  an  onion :  when  it  is  coming  to  a  boil,  skim 
it,  cover  the  pan  close,  and  set  it  over  a  very  slow  fire  till  the 
chops  are  tender :  if  they  have  been  kept  a  proper  time,  they 
will  take  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour's  very  gentle  sim- 
mering. Send  up  turnips  with  them  (No.  130) ;  they  may 
be  boiled  with  the  chops ;  skim  well,  and  then  send  all  up  in 
a  deep  dish,  with  the  broth  they  were  stewed  in. 

N.  B.  The  broth  will  make  an  economist  one,  and  the 
meat  another,  wholesome  and  comfortable  meal. 

Shoulder  of  Lamb  grilled.— (No.  491.) 

Boil  it ;  score  it  in  checkers  about  an  inch  square,  rub  it 
over  with  the  yelk  of  an  egg,  pepper  and  salt  it,  strew  it  with 
bread-crumbs  and  dried  parsley,  or  sweet  herbs,  or  No.  457, 
or  No.  459,  and  Carbonado,  i,  e.  grill,  i.  e.  broil  it  over  a  clear 


308  MADE   DISHES,    &C. 

fire,  or  put  it  in  a  Dutch  oven  till  it  is  a  nice  light  brown ; 
send  up  some  gravy  with  it,  or  make  a  sauce  for  it  of  flour 
and  water  well  mixed  together  with  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter, 
a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  or  walnut  catchup,  and  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon.  See  also  grill  sauce  (No.  355). 

N.B.  Breasts  of  lamb  are  often  done  in  the  same  way, 
and  with  mushroom  or  mutton  sauce  (No.  307). 

Lamb's  Fry.— (No.  492.) 

Fry  it  plain,  or  dip  it  in  an  egg  well  beaten  on  a  plate,  and 
strew  some  fine  stale  bread-crumbs  over  it;  garnish  with 
crisp  parsley  (No.  389).  For  sauce,  No.  355,  or  No.  356. 

Shin  of  Beef*  stewed.— (No.  493.) 

Desire  the  butcher  to  saw  the  bone  into  three  or  four 
pieces,  put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  and  just  cover  it  with  cold 
water ;  when  it  simmers,  skim  it  clean ;  then  put  in  a  bundle 
of  sweet  herbs,  a  large  onion,  a  head  of  celery,  a  dozen  ber- 
ries of  black  pepper,  and  the  same  of  allspice :  stew  very 
gently  over  a  slow  fire  till  the  meat  is  tender ;  this  will  take 
from  about  three  hours  and  a  half,  to  four  and  a  half. 

Take  three  carrots,  peel  and  cut  them  into  small  squares ; 
peel  and  cut  ready  in  small  squares  a  couple  of  turnips,  with 
a  couple  of  dozen  of  small  young  round  silver  button  onions ; 
boil  them,  till  tender ;  the  turnips  and  onions  will  be  enough 
in  about  fifteen  minutes ;  the  carrots  will  require  about  twice 
as  long :  drain  them  dry. 

When  the  beef  is  quite  tender,  take  it  out  carefully  with  a 
slice,  and  put  it  on  a  dish  while  you  thicken  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  the  gravy :  to  do  this,  mix  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour 
with  a  tea-cupful  of  the  beef  liquor ;  to  make  soup  of  the  rest 
of  it,  see  No.  238 ;  stir  this  thoroughly  together  till  it  boils, 
skim  off  the  fat,  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  put  your  vege- 
tables in  to  warm ;  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  wine-glass 
of  mushroom  catchup  (No.  439),  or  port  wine,  or  both,  and 
pour  it  over  the  beef. 

Send  up  Wow-wow  sauce  (No.  328)  in  a  boat. 

N.B.  Or,  instead  of  sending  up  the  beef  whole,  cut  the 
meat  into  handsome  pieces  fit  to  help  at  table,  and  lay  it  in 
the  middle  of  the  dish,  with  the  vegetables  and  sauce  (which, 
if  you  flavour  with  No.  455,  you  may  call  "  beef  curry") 

*  The  proverb  says,  "  Of  all  the  fowls  of  the  air,  commend  me  to  the  shin  of  beef, 
for  there 's  marrovv  for  the  master,  meat  for  the  mistress,  gristles  for  the  servants, 
and  bones  for  the  dogs." 


MADE   DISHES,    &.C.  300 

round  it.  A  leg  of  mutton  is  excellent  dressed  in  the  same 
way ;  equal  to  "  le  gigot  de  sept  heures"  so  famous  in  the 
French  kitchen. 

Obs. — This  stew  has  every  claim  to  the  attention  of  the- 
rational  epicure,  being  one  of  those  in  which  "  frugality," 
•'  nourishment,"  and  "  palatableness,"  are  most  happily  com- 
bined; and  you  get  half  a  gallon  of  excellent  broth  into  the 
bargain. 

We  advise  the  mistress  of  the  table  to  call  it  "ragotit 
beef:"  this  will  ensure  its  being  eaten  with  unanimous 
applause ;  the  homely  appellation  of  "  shin  of  beef  stewed," 
is  enough  to  give  your  genteel  eater  the  locked  jaw. 

"  Remember,  when  the  judgment's  weak,  the  prejudice  is  strong." 

Our  modern  epicures  resemble  the  ancient,*  who  thought 
the  dearest  dish  must  be  the  most  delicious : 

"  And  think  all  wisdom  lies 

In  being  impertinently  nice." 

Thus,  they  reckon  turtle  and  punch  to  be  "  sheventy-foive 
per  shent"  more  inviting  than  mock  turtle  and  good  malt 
liquor :  however  bad  the  former  may  be,  and  however  good 
the  latter,  we  wish  these  folks  could  be  made  to  understand, 
that  the  soup  for  each,  and  all  the  accompaniments,  are  pre- 
cisely the  same :  there  is  this  only  difference,  the  former  is 
commonly  made  with  a  "  starved  turtle"  (see  Notes  at  the 
ix»ot  of  page  266),  the  latter  with  a  "  fatted  calf."  See  Nos. 
247,  343,  and  343*. 

The  scarcity  of  tolerably  good  cooks  ceases  to  be  sur- 
prising, when  we  reflect  how  much  more  astonishing  is  the 
ignorance  of  most  of  those  who  assume  the  character  of 
scientific  gourmands,!  so  extremely  ignorant  of  "  the  affairs 
of  the  mouth,"  they  seem  hardly  to  "  know  a  sheep's  head 
from  a  carrot;"  and  their  real  pretensions  to  be  profound 
palaticians,  are  as  moderate  as  the  wine-merchant's  cus- 

*  The  remotest  parts  of  the  world  were  visited,  and  earth,  air,  and  ocean  ran- 
sacked, to  furnish  the  complicated  delicacies  of  a  Roman  supper. 

"  Suidas  tells  us,  that  Pityllus,  who  had  a  hot  tongue  and  a  cold  stomach,  in  order 
•to  gratify  the  latter  without  offending  the  former,  made  a  sheath  for  his  tongue,  so 
:hat  he  could  swallow  his  pottage  scalding  hot ;  yea,  I  myself  have  known  a  Shrop- 
shire gentleman  of  the  like  quality ! !" — See  Dr.  MOFFAT  on  Food,  4to.  1655. 

"  In  the  refined  extravagance  of  the  tables  of  the  great,  where  the  culinary  arts 
are  pushed  to  excess,  luxury  becomes  false  to  itself,  and  things  are  valued,  not  as 
they  are  nutritious,  or  agreeable  to  the  appetite,  but  in  proportion  as  they  are  rare, 
out  of  season,  or  costly." — CADOGAN  on  Gout,  8vo.  1771,  p.  48. 

t  "  Cookery  is  an  art,  appreciated  by  only  a  very  few  individuals,  and  which 
requires,  in  addition  to  a  most  studious  and  diligent  application,  no  small  share  of 
i  ntellect,  and  the  strictest  sobriety  and  punctuality."— Preface  to  UDE'SJ  Cookery,  p.  $ 


310  MADE    DISHES,    &C. 

tomer,  whose  sagacity  in  the  selection  of  liquors  was  only 
so  exquisite,  that  he  knew  that  Port  wine  was  black,  and 
that  if  he  drank  enough  of  it,  it  would  make  him  drunk. 

Brisket  of  Beef  sterved.—(No.  494.) 

This  is  prepared  in  exactly  the  same  way  as  *'  soup  and 
bouilli."  See  Nos.  5,  238,  or  493. 

Haricot  of  Beef— (No.  495.) 

A  stewed  brisket  cut  in  slices,  and  sent  up  with  the  same 
sauce  of  roots,  &c.,  as  we  have  directed  for  haricot  of  mut- 
ton (No.  489),  is  a  most  excellent  dish,  of  very  moderate 
expense. 

Savoury  Salt  Beef  baked.— (No.  496.) 

The  tongue  side  of  a  round  of  beef  is  the  best  bit  for  this 
purpose :  if  it  weighs  fifteen  pounds,  let  it  hang  two  or  three 
days;  then  take  three  ounces  of  saltpetre,  one  ounce  of 
coarse  sugar,  a  quarter,  of  an  ounce  of  black  pepper,  and  the 
same  of  allspice  (some  add  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  ginger, 
or  No.  457),  and  some  minced  sweet  and  savouiy  herbs  (No. 
459),  and  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  common  salt;  incor- 
porate these  ingredients  by  pounding  them  together  in  a 
mortar;  then  take  the  bone  out,  and  rub  the  meat  well  with 
the  above  mixture,  turning  it  and  rubbing  it  every  day  for  a 
fortnight. 

When  you  dress  it,  put  it  into  a  pan  with  a  quart  of  water; 
cover  the  meat,  with  about  three  pounds  of  mutton  suet* 
shredded  rather  thick,  and  an  onion  or  two  minced  small ; 
cover  the  whole  with  a  flour  crust  to  the  top  or  brim  of  the 
pan,  and  let  it  be  baked  in  a  moderate-heated  oven  for  about 
six  hours :  (or,  just  cover  it  with  water,  and  let  it  stew  very 
gently  for  about  five  hours,  and  when  you  send  it  to  table, 
cover  the  top  of  it  with  finely  chopped  parsley.)  If  the  beef 
weighs  more,  put  a  proportional  addition  of  all  the  ingre- 
dients. 

The  gravy  you  will  find  a  strong  consommt,  excellent  for 
sauce  or  soup ;  or  making  soy,  or  browning,  see  No.  322,  and 
being  impregnated  with  salt,  will  keep  several  days. 

This  joint  should  not  be  cut  till  it  is  cold :  and  then,  with  a 

*  This  suet  is  not  to  be  wasted :  when  it  comes  from  the  oven,  take  out  the  beef, 
and  strain  the  contents  of  the  pan  through  a  sieve ;  let  it  stand  till  it  is  cold ;  then 
x-!arify  the  fat  as  directed  in  No.  83,  and  it  will  do  for  frying,  &c. 


MADE    DISHES,    &C.  311 

sharp  knife,  to  prevent  waste,  and  keep  it  even  and  comely 
to  the  eye. 

Obs.— This  is  a  most  excellent  way  of  preparing  and  dress- 
ing  beef  (No.  503),  and  a  savoury  dish  for  sandwiches,  &c. 
In  moderate  weather  it  will  keep  good  for  a  fortnight  after  it 
is  dressed:  it  is  one  of  the  most  economical  and  elegant  arti- 
cles of  ready-dressed  keeping  provisions;  deserving  the  par- 
ticular attention  of  those  families  who  frequently  have  acci- 
dental customers  dropping  in  at  luncheon  or  supper. 

Curries.— (No.  497;  see  also  No.  249.) 

Cut  fowls  or  rabbits  into  joints,  and  wash  them  clean :  put 
two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stew-pan ;  when  it  is  melted,  put 
in  the  meat,  and  two  middling-sized  onions  sliced,  let  them 
be  over  a  smart  fire  till  they  are  of  a  light  brown,  then  put  in 
half  a  pint  of  broth;  let  it  simmer  twenty  minutes. 

Put  in  a  basin  one  or  two  table-spoonfuls  of  curry  powder 
(No.  455),  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ; 
mix  it  smooth  with  a  little  cold  water,  put  it  into  the  stew- 
pan,  and  shake  it  well  about  till  it  boils :  let  it  simmer  twenty 
minutes  longer ;  then  take  out  the  meat,  and  rub  the  sauce 
through  a  tamis  or  sieve :  add  to  it  two  table  spoonfuls  of 
r-ream  or  milk ;  give  it  a  boil  up ;  then  pour  it  into  a  dish,  lay 
the  meat  over  it :  send  up  the  rice  in  a  separate  dish. 

Obs. — Curry  is  made  also  with  sweetbreads,  breast  of  veal, 
veal  cutlets,  lamb,  mutton  or  pork  chops,  lobster,  turbot, 
*oles,  eels,  oysters,  &c. :  prepared  as  above,  or  enveloped  in 
No.  348. 

Obs. — This  is  a  very  savoury  and  economical  dish,  and  a 
valuable  variety  at  a  moderate  table.  See  Wow-wow  sauce 
(No.  328). 

Stewed  Rump-Steaks.— (No.  500.) 

The  steaks  must  be  a  little  thicker  than  for  broiling :  let 
them  be  all  the  same  thickness,  or  some  will  be  done  too 
1  ittle,  and  others  too  much. 

Put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stew-pan,  with  two  onions ; 
when  the  butter  is  melted,  lay  in  the  rump-steaks,  let  them 
stand  over  a  slow  fire  for  five  minutes,  then  turn  them  and 
let  the  other  side  of  them  fry  for  five  minutes  longer.  Have 
ready  boiled  a  pint  of  button  onions ;  they  will  take  from  half 
an  hour  to  an  hour;  put  the  liquor  they  were  boiled  in  to  the 
steaks ;  if  there  is  not  enough  of  it  to  cover  them,  add  broth 
or  boiling  water,  to  make  up  enough  for  that  purpose,  with  a 
dozen  corns  of  black  pepper,  and  a  little  salt,  and  let  them 


312  MADE    DISHES,   &C. 

simmer  very  gently  for  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  then 
strain  off  as  much  of  the  liquor  (about  a  pint  and  a  half)  as 
you  think  will  make  the  sauce. 

Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stew-pan;  when  it  is 
melted,  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  will  make  it  into  a  stiff  paste ; 
some  add  thereto  a  table-spoonful  of  claret,  or  Port  wine,  the 
same  of  mushroom  catchup  (No.  439),  half  a  tea-spoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  ground  black  pepper : 
add  the  liquor  by  degrees ;  let  it  boil  up  for  fifteen  minutes ; 
skim  it,  and  strain  it;  serve  up  the  steaks  with  the  onions 
round  the  dish,  and  pour  the  gravy  over. 

Veal-cutlets  or  mutton-chops  may  be  done  the  same  way, 
or  as  veal-olives  (No.  518). 

This  is  generally  a  second-course  dish,  and  is  usually 
made  too  rich,  and  only  fit  to  re-excite  an  appetite  already 
satiated.  Our  endeavour  is  to  combine  agreeable  savouriness 
with  substantial  nourishment ;  those  who  wish  to  enrich  our 
receipt,  may  easily  add  mushrooms,  wine,  anchovy,  Cay- 
enne, bay-leaves,  &c. 

Obs.  Rump-steaks  are  in  best  condition  from  Michaelmas 
to  lady-day.  To  ensure  their  being  tender,  give  the  butcher 
three  or  four  days'  notice  of  your  wish  for  them. 

Broiled  Rump-Steak  with  Onion  Gravy. — (No.  501.) 
See  also  No.  299. 

Peel  and  slice  two  large  onions,  put  them  into  a  quart 
stew-pan,  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  water ;  cover  the  stew- 
pan  close,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire  till  the  water  has  boiled 
away,  and  the  onions  have  got  a  little  browned ;  then  add  half 
a  pint  of  good  broth,*  and  boil  the  onions  till  they  are  ten- 
der ;  strain  the  broth  from  them,  and  chop  them  very  fine, 
and  season  it  with  mushroom  catchup,  pepper,  and  salt :  put 
the  onion  into  it,  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  five  minutes ;  pour 
it  into  the  dish,  and  lay  over  it  a  broiled  rump-steak.  If  in- 
stead of  broth  you  use  good  beef  gravy,  it  will  be  super- 
lative. 

%*  Stewed  cucumber  (No.  135)  is  another  agreeable  ac- 
companiment to  rump-steaks. 

Alamode  Beef,  or  Veal.— (No.  502.) 
In  the  180  volumes  on  Cookery,  we  patiently  pioneered 

*  If  you  have  no  broth,  put  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  thicken  it  as  in  the  above 
receipt,  and  just  before  you  give  it  the  last  boil  up,  add  to  it  a  large  spoonful  of 
mushroom  catchup,  and,  if  you  like,  the  same  quantity  of  port  wine. 


MADE    DISHES,  &C.  313 

through,  before  we  encountered  the  tremendous  labour  and 
expense  of  proving  the  receipts  of  our  predecessors,  and  set 
about  recording  these  results  of  our  own  experiments,  we 
could  not  find  one  receipt  that  approximated  to  any  thing- 
like  an  accurate  description  of  the  way  in  which  this  excel- 
lent dish  is  actually  dressed  in  the  best  alamode  beef  shops ; 
from  whence,  of  course,  it  was  impossible  to  obtain  any  in- 
formation :  however,  after  all,  the  whole  of  the  secret  seems 
to  be  the  thickening  of  the  gravy  of  beef  that  has  been  very 
slowly*  stewed,  and  flavouring  it  with  bay-leaves  and  all- 
spice. 

Take  about  eleven  pounds  of  the  mouse  buttock,  or  clod 
of  beef,  or  a  blade-bone,  or  the  sticking-piece,  or  the  like 
weight  of  the  breast  of  veal ;  cut  it  into  pieces  of  three  or 
four  ounces  each;  put  three  or  four  ounces  of  beef  drip- 
pings, and  mince  a  couple  of  large  onions,  and  put  them  into 
a  large  deep  stew-pan ;  as  soon  as  it  is  quite  hot,  flour  the 
meat,  put  it  into  the  stew-pan,  keep  stirring  it  with  a  wooden 
spoon ;  when  it  has  been  on  about  ten  minutes,  dredge  it 
•with  flour,  and  keep  doing  so  till  you  have  stirred  in  as  much 
as  you  think  will  thicken  it ;  then  cover  it  with  boiling  water 
(it  will  take  about  a  gallon),  adding  it  by  degrees,  and  stirring 
it  together ;  skim  it  when  it  boils,  and  then  put  in  one  drachm 
of  ground  black  pepper,  two  of  allspice,  and  two  bay-leaves ; 
set  the  pan  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  or  at  a  distance  over  it, 
and  let  it  stew  very  slowly  for  about  three  hours ;  when  you 
find  the  meat  sufficiently  tender,  put  it  into  a  tureen,  and  it  is 
ready  for  table. 

It  is  customary  to  send  up  with  it  a  nice  salad;  set- 
No.  372. 

***  To  the  above  many  cooks  add  champignons ;  but  as 
these  are  almost  always  decayed,  and  often  of  deleterious 
quality,  they  are  better  left  out,  and  indeed  the  bay-leaves 
deserve  the  same  prohibition. 

Obs.  Here  is  a  savoury  and  substantial  meal,  almost  as 
('heap  as  the  egg-broth  of  the  miser,  who  fed  his  valet  with 
the  water  in  which  his  egg  was  boiled,  or  as  the  "  Potage  d 
la  Pierre,  d  la  Soldat,"^  mentioned  by  Giles  Rose,  in  the  4th 

*  "  It  must  be  allowed  to  muse  gently  for  several  hours,  inaccessible  to  the  am- 
bient air,  and  on  the  even  and  persevering  heat  of  charcoal  in  the  furnace  or  stove. 
After  having  lulled  itself  in  its  own  exudations,  and  the  dissolution  of  its  auxiliaries, 
i  t  may  appear  at  table  with  a  powerful  claim  to  approbation."—  Tabella  Cibarta,  p.  47. 

t  " '  (Test  la  soupej  says  one  of  the  best  of  proverbs,  '  qui  fait  le  soldat  „•'  '  It  is 
the  soup  that  makes  the  soldier.'  Excellent  as  our  troops  are  in  the  field,  there 
cannot  be  a  more  unquestionable  fact,  than  their  immense  inferiority  to  the  French 
in  the  business  of  cookery.  The  English  soldier  lays  his  piece  of  ration  beef  at 
once  on  the  coals,  by  which  means  the  one  and  the  better  half  is  lost,  and  the  other 
Dd 


314  MADE   DISHES,   &C. 

page  of  his  dedication  6f  the  "  perfect  school  of  instruction 
for  the  officers  of  the  mouth,"  18mo.  London,  1682.  "  Two 
soldiers  were  minded  to  have  a  soup;  the  first  of  them 
coming  into  a  house,  and  asking  for  all  things  necessary  for 
the  making  of  one,  was  as  soon  told  that  he  could  have  none 
of  those  things  there,  whereupon  he  went  away;  the  other, 
coming  in  with  a  stone  in  his  knapsack,  asked  only  for  a  pot 
to  boil  his  stone  in,  that  he  might  make  a  dish  of  broth  of  it 
for  his  supper,  which  was  quickly  granted  him ;  when  the 
stone  had  boiled  a  little  while,  he  asked  for  a  small  piece  of 
meat  or  bacon,  and  a  few  herbs  and  roots,  &c.  just  merely 
to  give  it  a  bit  of  a  flavour;  till,  by  little  and  little,  he  got  all 
things  requisite,  and  so  made  an  excellent  pottage  of  his 
stone."  See  Obs.  to  No.  493. 

s.    d. 

Onions,  pepper,  allspice,  and  bay-leaves 0    3 

11  pounds  of  beef 3    8 

Made  eight  quarts 3  11 

i.  e.  sixpence  per  quart. 

To  pot  Beef,  Veal,  Game,  or  Poultry,  #c.— (No.  503.) 

Take  three  pounds  of  lean  gravy  beef,  rub  it  well  with  an 
ounce  of  saltpetre,  and  then  a  handful  of  common  salt ;  let  it 
lie  in  salt  for  a  couple  of  days,  rubbing  it  well  each  day; 
then  put  it  into  an  earthen  pan  or  stone  jar  that  will  just 
hold  it ;  cover  it  with  the  skin  and  fat  that  you  cut  off,  and 
pour  in  half  a  pint  of  water ;  cover  it  close  with  paste,  and 
set  it  in  a  very  slow  oven  for  about  four  hours ;  or  prepare 
it  as  directed  in  No.  496. 

*'  When  it  comes  from  the  oven,  drain  the  gravy  from  it  into 
a  basin ;  pick  out  the  gristles  and  the  skins ;  mince  it  fine ; 
moisten  it  with  a  little  of  the  gravy  you  poured  from  the 
meat,  which  is  a  veiy  strong  consomme  (but  rather  salt),  and 
it  will  make  excellent  pease  soup,  or  browning  (see  No. 
322) ;  pound  the  meat  patiently  and  thoroughly  in  a  mortar 
with  some  fresh  butter,*  till  it  is  a  fine  paste  (to  make  potted 
meat  smooth  there  is  nothing  equal  to  plenty  of  elbow-grease) ; 
seasoning  it  (by  degrees,  as  you  are  beating  it,)  with  a  little 

burned  to  a  cinder.  Whereas,  six  French  troopers  fling  their  messes  into  the  same 
pot,  and  extract  a  delicious  soup,  ten  times  more  nutritious  than  the  simple  rdti 
could" ever  be." — BLACKWOOD'S  Edinburgh  Magazine,  vol.  vii.  p.  668. 

*  The  less  gravy  or  butter,  and  the  more  beating,  the  better  will  be  your  potted 
beef,  if  you  wish  it  to  keep :  if  for  immediate  eating,  you  may  put  in  a  larger  pro- 
portion of  gravy  or  butter,  as  the  meat  will  pound  easier  and  look  and  taste  more 
mellow 


MADE   DISHES,   &C,  315 

> 

black  pepper  and  allspice,  or  cloves  pounded,  or  mace,  or 
grated  nutmeg.  ) 

Put  it  in  pots,  press  it  down  as  close  as  possible,  and  cover 
it  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  with  clarified  butter ;  to  prepare 
which,  see  receipt  No.  259,  and  if  you  wish  to  preserve  it  a 
long-  time,  over  that  tie  a  bladder.  Keep  it  in  a  dry  place. 

Obs.  You  may  mince  a  little  ham  or  bacon,  or  an  anchovy, 
sweet  or  savoury  herbs,  or  an  eschalot,  and  a  little  tarragon, 
chervil,  or  burnet,  &c.,  and  pound  them  with  the  meat,  with 
a  glass  of  wine,  or  some  mustard,  or  forcemeat  (No.  376,  or 
Nos.  378  and  399*,  &c.) ;  if  you  wish  to  have  it  devilish 
savoury,  add  ragout  powder  (No.  457),  curry  powder  (No. 
455),  or  zest  (No.  255),  and  moisten  it  with  mushroom 
catchup  (No.  439),  or  essence  of  anchovy  (No.  433),  or 
tincture  of  allspice  (No.  413),  or  essence  of  turtle  (No.  343*), 
or,  (No.  503*). 

It  is  a  very  agreeable  and  economical  way  of  using  the 
remains  of  game  or  poultry,  or  a  large  joint  of  either  roasted 
or  boiled  beef,  veal,  ham,  or  tongue,  &c.  to  mince  it  with 
some  of  the  fat,  (or  moisten  it  with  a  little  butter,  or  No. 
439,  &c.)  and  beat  it  in  a  mortar  with  the  seasoning,  &c.,  as 
in  the  former  receipt.  j 

When  either  the  teeth  or  stomach  are  extremely  feeble, 
o special  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  meat  till  it  is  tender 
before  it  is  cooked ;  or  call  in  the  aid  of  those  excellent  helps 
to  bad  teeth,  the  pestle  and  mortar.  And  see  Nos.  10,  18, 
87,  89,  175,  178 ;  from  185  to  250,  502,  542,  and  especially 
503.  Or  dress  in  the  usual  way  whatever  is  best  liked,  mince 
it,  put  it  into  a  mortar,  and  pound  it  with  a  little  broth  or 
melted  butter,  vegetable,  herb,  spice,  zest  (No.  255),  &c.  ac- 
cording to  the  taste,  &c.  of  the  eater.  The  business  of  the 
stomach  is  thus  very  materially  facilitated. 

"  Flesh  in  small  quantities,  bruised  to  a  pulp,  may  be  very 
advantageously  used  in  fevers  attended  with  debility." — 
DARWIN'S  Zoonomia,  vol.  ii.  p.  400. 

"  Mincing  or  pounding  meat  saveth  the  grinding  of  the 
teeth;  and  therefore  (no  doubt)  is  more  nourishing,  espe- 
cially in  age,  or  to  them  that  have  weak  teeth ;  but  butter  is 
not  proper  for  weak  bodies,  and  therefore  moisten  it  in 
pounding  with  a  little  claret  wine,  and  a  very  little  cinna- 
mon or  nutmeg." — Lord  BACON;  Natural  History,  Cen- 
tury 1.  54. 

Obs. — Meat  that  has  been  boiled  down  for  gravies,  &c.  see 
Nos.  185*  and  252,  (which  has  heretofore  been  considered 
the  perquisite  of  the  cat)  and  is  completely  drained  of  all  its 
succulence,  beat  in  a  mortar  with  salt  and  a  little  ground 


316  MADE   DISHES,  &C. 

black  pepper  and  allspice,  as  directed  in  the  foregoing  re- 
ceipt, and  it  will  make  as  good  potted  beef  as  meat  that  has 
been  baked  till  its  moisture  is  entirely  extracted,  which  it 
must  be,  or  it  will  not  keep  two  days. 

MEM. — Meat  that  has  not  been  previously  salted,  will  not 
keeo  so  long  as  that  which  has. 

Sandwiches,— -(No.  504.) 

7  Properly  prepared,  are  an  elegant  and  convenient  luncheon 
or  supper,  but  have  got  out  of  fashion,  from  the  bad  manner 
in  which  they  are  commonly  made :  to  cut  the  bread  neatly 
with  a  sharp  knife  seems  to  be  considered  the  only  essen- 
tial, and  the  lining  is  composed  of  any  offal  odds  and  ends, 
that  cannot  be  sent  to  table  in  any  other  form. 

Whatever  is  used  must  be  carefully  trimmed  from  every 
bit  of  skin,  gristle,  &c.  and  nothing  introduced  but  what  you 
are  absolutely  certain  will  be  acceptable  to  the  mouth. 

MATERIALS   FOR   MAKING   SANDWICHES. 


Cold  meat,  or  poultry. 

Potted  ditto  (No.  503). 

Savoury  ditto  (No.  496). 

Potted  lobster   (No.  178),  or  shrimp 

(No.  175). 

Potted  cheese  (No.  542). 
Potted,  or  grated  ham  (No.  509). 
Ditto,  or  grated  tongue. 


German  sausage. 

Cold  pork  ditto  (No.  87). 

Hard  eggs,  pounded  with  a  little  butter 

and  cheese. 
Grated  ham,  or  beef. 
Various  forcemeats,  &.C.  (No.  373),  &c. 
Curry-powder,  zest,  mustard,  pepper, 

and  salt  are  added  occasionally. 


Anchovy  (Nos.  434  and  435). 

Meat  Cakes.— (No.  504*.) 

If  you  have  any  cold  meat,  game,  or  poultry  (if  under- 
done, all  the  better),  mince  it  fine,  with  a  little  fat  bacon  or 
ham,  or  an  anchovy ;  season  it  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt ; 
mix  well,  and  make  it  into  small  cakes  three  inches  long,  half 
as  wide,  and  half  an  inch  thick :  fry  these  a  light  brown, 
and  serve  them  with  good  gravy,  or  put  it  into  a  mould  and 
boil  or  bake  it. 

N.B.  Bread-crumbs,  hard  yelks  of  eggs,  onions,  sweet 
herbs,  savoury  spices,  zest,  or  curry-powder,  or  any  of  the 
forcemeats.  See  Nos.  373  to  382. 

Fish  cakes  for  maigre  days,  may  be  made  in  like  manner* 

Bubble  and  Squeak,  or  fried  Beef  or  Mutton  and  Cab* 
bage.—(No.  505.) 

"When  'midst  the  frying  pan,  in  accents  savage, 
The  beef,  so  surly,  quarrels  with  the  cabbage.' 


"  MADE   DISHES,   &C.  317 

For  this,  as  for  a  hash,  select  those  parts  of  the  joint  that 
have  been  least  done ;  it  is  generally  made  with  slices  of 
cold  boiled  salted  beef,  sprinkled  with  a  little  pepper,  and 
just  lightly  browned  with  a  bit  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan :  if 
it  is  fried  too  much  it  will  be  hard. 

Boil  a  cabbage,  squeeze  it  quite  dry,  and  chop  it  small ; 
take  the  beef  out  of  the  frying-pan,  and  lay  the  cabbage  in 
it ;  sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and  salt  over  it ;  keep  the  pan 
moving  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes ;  lay  the  cabbage  in 
the  middle  of  a  dish,  and  the  meat  round  it. 

For  sauce,  see  No.  356,  or  No.  328. 

Hashed  Beef,  and  roast  Beef  bones  boiled.— (No.  506.) 

To  hash  beef,  see  receipt,  Nos.  484,  5,  6,  and  Nos.  360, 
484,  and  486. 

The  best  part  to  hash  is  the  fillet  or  inside  of  the  sirloin, 
and  the  good  housewife  will  always  endeavour  to  preserve 
it  entire  for  this  purpose.  See  06s.  to  No.  19,  and  mock 
hare,  No.  67*. 

Roast  beef  bones  furnish  a  very  relishing  luncheon  or 
supper,  prepared  in  the  following  manner,  with  poached 
eggs  (No.  546),  or  fried  eggs  (No.  545),  or  mashed  potatoes 
(No.  106),  as  accompaniments. 

Divide  the  bones,  leaving  good  pickings  of  meat  on  each ; 
score  them  in  squares,  pour  a  little  melted  butter  on  them, 
and  sprinkle  them  with  pepper  and  salt :  put  them  in  a  dish ; 
set  them  in  a  Dutch  oven  for  half  or  three  quarters  of  an 
hour,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  meat ;  keep  turning 
them  till  they  are  quite  hot  and  brown ;  or  broil  them  on  the 
gridiron.  Brown  them,  but  don't  burn  them  black.  For 
sauce,  Nos.  355,  or  356. 

Ox-Cheek  stewed.— (No.  507.) 

Prepare  this  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  eaten ;  clean  it,  and 
put  it  into  soft  water  just  warm ;  let  it  lie  three  or  four  hours, 
then  put  it  into  cold  water,  and  let  it  soak  all  night ;  next  day 
wipe  it  clean,  put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  and  just  cover  it  with 
water ;  skim  it  well  when  it  is  coming  to  a  boil,  then  put  two 
whole  onions,  stick  two  or  three  cloves  into  each,  three  tur- 
nips quartered,  a  couple  of  carrots  sliced,  two  bay-leaves, 
and  twenty-four  corns  of  allspice,  a  head  of  celery,  and  a 
bundle  of  sweet  herbs,  pepper,  and  salt ;  to  these,  those  who 
are  for  a  "  haut  gotit"  may  add  Cayenne  and  garlic,  in  such 
proportions  as  the  palate  that  requires  them  may  desire. 
Dd2 


318  MADE   DISHES,   &C. 

Let  it  stew  gently  till  perfectly  tender,  i.  e.  about  three 
hours ;  then  take  out  the  cheek,  divide  it  into  handsome 
pieces,  fit  to  help  at  table ;  skim,  and  strain  the  gravy ;  melt 
an  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  in  a  stew-pan ;  stir  into  it  as 
much  flour  as  it  will  take  up ;  mix  with  it  by  degrees  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  the  gravy ;  add  to  it  a  table-spoonful  of  basil, 
tarragon,  or  elder  vinegar,  or  the  like  quantity  of  mushroom 
or  walnut  catchup,  or  cavice,  or  port  wine,  and  give  it  aboil. 

Serve  up  in  a  soup  or  ragout-dish;  or  make  it  into  barley 
broth,  No.  304. 

Obs. — This  is  a  very  economical,  nourishing,  and  savoury 
meal.  See  ox-cheek  soup,  No.  239,  and  calf's  head' hashed. 
No.  520. 

Ox-Tails  stewed.— (No.  508.) 

Divide  them  into  joints ;  wash  them ;  parboil  them ;  set 
them  on  to  stew  in  just  water  enough  to  cover  them, — and 
dress  them  in  the  same  manner  as  we  have  directed  in  No. 
531,  Stewed  Giblets,  for  which  they  are  an  excellent  substi- 
tute. 

N.B.— See  Ox-Tail  Soup,  No.  240. 

Potted  Ham,  or  Tongue.— (No.  509.) 

Cut  a  pound  of  the  lean  of  cold  boiled  Ham  or  Tongue^ 
and  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  the 
fat,  or  with  fresh  butter  (in  the  proportion  of  about  two 
ounces  to  a  pound),  till  it  is  a  fine  paste  (some  season  it  by 
degrees  with  a  little  pounded  mace  or  allspice) :  put  it  close 
down  in  pots  for  that  purpose,  and  cover  it  with  Clarified 
Butter,  No.  259,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick ;  let  it  stand  one 
night  in  a  cool  place.  Send  it  up  in  the  pot,  or  cut  out  in 
thin  slices.  See  Obs.  on  No.  503. 

Hashed  real— (No.  511.) 

Prepare  it  as  directed  in  No.  484 ;  and  to  make  sauce  to 
warm  Veal,  see  No.  361. 

Hashed  or  minced  Fea/.— (No.  511*.) 

To  make  a  hash*  cut  the  meat  into  slices ; — to  prepare 
minced  veal,  mince  it  as  fine  as  possible  (do  not  chop  it) ;  put 
it  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  veal  or  .mutton 
broth,  or  make  some  with  the  bones  and  trimmings,  as  or- 

*  See  receipt  to  hash  mutton,  Nos.  360  and  361,  and  No.  484. 


MADE   DISHES,  (fcc  319 

dered  for  veal  cutlets  (see  No.  80,  or  No.  361),  a  little  lemon- 
peel  minced  fine,  a  spoonful  of  milk  or  cream ;  thicken  with 
butter  and  flour,  and  season  it  with  salt,  a  table-spoonful  of 
lemon  pickle,  or  Basil  wine,  No.  397,  &c.,  or  a  pinch  of  curry 
powder. 

***  If  you  have  no  cream,  beat  up  the  yelks  of  a  couple 
of  eggs  with  a  little  milk :  line  the  dish  with  sippets  of  lightly 
toasted  bread. 

Obs. — Minced  veal  makes  a  very  pretty  dish  put  into  scollop 
shells,  and  bread  crumbed  over,  and  sprinkled  with  a  little 
butter,  and  browned  in  a  Dutch  oven,  or  a  cheese-toaster. 

To  mane  an  excellent  Ragout  of  Cold  Veal— (No.  512.) 

Either  a  neck,  loin,  or  fillet  of  veal,  will  furnish  this  ex- 
cellent ragout  with  a  very  little  expense  or  trouble. 

Cut  the  veal  into  handsome  cutlets ;  put  a  piece  of  butter 
or  clean  dripping  into  a  frying-pan  \  as  soon  as  it  is  hot,  flour 
and  fry  the  veal  of  a  light  brown :  take  it  out,  and  if  you 
have  no  gravy  ready,  make  some  as  directed  in  the  note  to 
No.  517;  or  put  a  pint  of  boiling  water  into  the  frying-pan, 
give  it  a  boil  up  for  a  minute,  and  strain  it  into  a  basin  while 
you  make  some  thickening  in  the  following  manner:  put 
about  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stew-pan ;  as  soon  as  it  melts, 
mix  with  it  as  much  flour  as  will  dry  it  up ;  stir  it  over  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes,  and  gradually  add  to  it  the  gravy  you 
made  in  the  frying-pan ;  let  them  simmer  together  for  ten 
minutes  (till  thoroughly  incorporated) ;  season  it  with  pepper, 
salt,  a  little  mace,  and  a  wine-glassful  of  mushroom  catchup 
or  wine ;  strain  it  through  a  tamls  to  the  meat,  and  stew  very 
gently  till  the  meat  is  thoroughly  warmed.  If  you  have  any 
ready-boiled  bacon,  cut  it  in  slices,  and  put  it  in  to  warm  with 
the  meat,  or  No.  526  or  527. 

Veal  cutlets,  see  No.  90,  £c. 

Breast  of  Veal  stewed.— (No.  515.) 

A  breast  of  veal  stewed  till  quite  tender,  and  smothered 
with  onion  sauce,  is  an  excellent  dish ;  or  in  the  gravy  or- 
dered in  the  note  to  No.  517. 

Breast  of  Veal  Ragout.— (No.  517.) 

Take  off  the  under  bone,  and  cut  the  breast  in  half  length- 
ways ;  divide  it  into  pieces,  about  four  inches  long,  by  two 


320  MADE   DISHES,  &C. 

inches  wide,  i  e.  in  handsome  pieces,  not  too  large  to  help 
at  once :  put  about  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan, 
and  fry  the  veal  till  it  is  a  light  brown,*  then  put  it  into  a 
stew-pan  with  veal  broth,  or  as  much  boiling  water  as  will 
cover  it,  a  bundle  of  sweet  marjoram,  common  or  lemon- 
thyme,  and  parsley,  with  four  cloves,  or  a  couple  of  blades 
of  pounded  mace,  three  young  onions,  or  one  old  one,  a  roll 
of  lemon-peel,  a  dozen  corns  of  allspice  bruised,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt ;  cover  it  close,  and  let  it  all  simmer  very 
gently  till  the  veal  is  tender,  i.  e.  for  about  an  hour  and  a 
half,  if  it  is  very  thick,  two  hours ;  then  strain  off  as  mucli 
(about  a  quart)  of  the  gravy,  as  you  think  you  will  want,  into 
a  basin ;  set  the  stew-pan,  with  the  meat,  &c.  in  it  by  the 
fire  to  keep  hot.  To  thicken  the  gravy  you  have  taken  out, 
put  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  into  a  clean  stew-pan; 
when  it  is  melted,  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  it  will  take ;  add 
the  gravy  by  degrees ;  season  it  with  salt ;  let  it  boil  ten 
minutes ;  skim  it  well,  and  season  it  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  white  wine,  one  of  mushroom  catchup,  and  same  of 
lemon-juice ;  give  it  a  boil  up,  and  it  is  ready :  now  put  the 
veal  into  a  ragotit  dish,  and  strain  the  gravy  through  a  fine 
sieve  to  it.  Or, 

By  keeping  the  meat  whole,  you  will  better  preserve  the 
succulence  of  it. 

Put  the  veal  into  a  stew-pan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter 
and  two  whole  onions  (such  as  weigh  about  two  ounces 
each) ;  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  fry  it  about  five  minutes ;  then 
cover  it  with  boiling  water ;  when  it  boils,  skim  it ;  then  put 
in  two  small  blades  of  mace,  a  dozen  blades  of  allspice,  the 
same  of  black  pepper;  cover  it  close,  and  let  it  simmer 
gently  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  then  strain  as  much  of  the 
gravy  as  you  think  you  will  want  into  a  basin ;  put  the  stew- 
pan  by  the  fire  to  keep  hot.  To  thicken  it,  put  an  ounce  and 
a  half  of  butter  into  a  clean  stew-pan :  when  it  is  melted, 
stir  in  as  much  flour  as  it  will  take ;  add  the  gravy  by  de- 
grees ;  season  it  with  salt,  and  when  it  boils  it  is  ready.  Put 
the  veal  on  a  dish,  and  strain  the  gravy  through  a  fine  sieve 
over  it. 

*  Some  cooks  make  the  gravy,  &c.  in  the  folloxying  manner: — Slice  a  larg« 
onion ;  fry  it  brown ;  drain  all  fat  from  it,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs,  a  couple  of  dozen  berries  of  allspice,  same  of  black  pepper,  three 
blades  of  mace,  and  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water ;  cover  down  close,  and  boil  gently, 
for  half  an  hour  ;  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve  over  the  veal,  and  let  it  simmer 
gently  for  about  three  hours :  about  half  an  hour  before  it  is  done,  mix  two  table- 
spoonfula  of  flour  in  a  tea-cupful  of  cold  water ;  mis  some  of  the  gravy  with 'it,  and 
then  put  it  into  the  stew-pan. 

N.B.  Three  pints  of  full-grown  green  pease  are  sometimes  added  when  the  veal 
is  put  in. 


MADE   DISHES,  &C.  321 

O6s.— - Forcemeat  balls,  see  No.  375,  &c. ;  truffles,  morefls, 
mushrooms,  and  curry  powder,  &c.  are  sometimes  added ; 
and  rashers  of  bacon  or  ham,  Nos.  526  and  527,  or  fried  pork 
sausages,  No.  83. 

N.B.  These  are  nice  dishes  in  the  pease  season. 

Scotch  Collops.—(No.  517*.) 

The  veal  must  be  cut  the  same  as  for  cutlets,  in  pieces 
about  as  big  as  a  crown-piece ;  flour  them  well,  and  fry  them 
of  a  light  brown  in  fresh  butter ;  lay  them  in  a  stew-pan ; 
dredge  them  over  with  flour,  and  then  put  in  as  much  boiling 
water  as  will  well  cover  the  veal ;  pour  this  in  by  degrees, 
shaking  the  stew-pan,  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  it  comes 
to  a  boil,  take  off  the  scum,  put  in  one  onion,  a  blade  of  mace, 
and  let  it  simmer  very  gently  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour ; 
lay  them  on  a  dish,  and  pour  the  gravy  through  a  sieve  over 
them. 

N.B.  Lemon-juice  and  peel,  wine,  catchup,  &c.,  are  some- 
times added ;  add  curry  powder,  No.  455,  and  you  have  curry 
collops. 

Veal  Olives.— (No.  518. 

Cut  half  a  dozen  slices  off  a  fillet  of  veal,  half  an  inch 
thick,  and  as  long  and  square  as  you  can ;  flat  them  with  a 
chopper,  and  rub  them  over  with  an  egg  that  has  been  beat 
on  a  plate ;  cut  some  fat  bacon  as  thin  as  possible,  the  same 
size  as  the  veal ;  lay  it  on  the  veal,  and  rub  it  with  a  little  of 
the  egg;  make  a  little  veal  forcemeat,  see  receipt,  No.  375,  and 
spread  it  very  thin  over  the  bacon ;  roll  up  the  olives  tight, 
rub  them  with  the  egg,  and  then  roll  them  in  fine  bread- 
crumbs ;  put  them  on  a  lark-spit,  and  roast  them  at  a  brisk 
fire :  they  will  take  three  quarters  of  an  hour. 

Rump-steaks  are  sometimes  dressed  this  way. 

Mushroom  sauce,  brown  (Nos.  305  or  306),  or  beef  gravy 
(No.  329).  Vide  chapter  on  sauces,  &c. 

Cold  Calfs  Head  hashed.— (No*  519.) 
See  Obs.  to  boiled  calf's  head,  No.  10. 

Calps  Head  hashed,  or  Ragout.— (No.  520.)    See  No*  247, 

Wash  a  calf's  head,  which,  to  make  this  dish  in  the  best 
style,  should  have  the  skin  on,  and  boil  it,  see  No.  10 ;  boil 
one  half  all  but  enough,  so  that  it  may  be  soon  quite  done 


MADE   DISHES,  &(% 

when  put  into  the  hash  to  warm,  the  other  quite  tender :  from 
this  half  take  out  the  bones :  score  it  superficially ;  beat  up 
an  egg ;  put  it  over  the  head  with  a  paste-brush,  and  strew 
over  it  a  little  grated  bread  and  lemon-peel,  and  thyme  and 
parsley,  chopped  very  fine,  or  in  powder,  then  bread-crumbs, 
and  put  it  in  the  Dutch  oven  to  brown. 

Cut  the  other  half-head  into  handsome  slices,  and  put  it 
into  a  stew-pan  with  a  quart  of  gravy  (No.  329),  or  turtle 
sauce  (No.  343),  with  forcemeat  balls  (Nos.  37G,  380),  egg- 
balls,  a  wine-glass  of  white  wine,  and  some  catchup,  &c. ; 
put  in  the  meat ;  let  it  warm  together,  and  skim  off  the  fat. 

Peel  the  tongue,  and  send  it  up  with  the  brains  round  it  as 
a  side  dish,  as  directed  in  No.  10 ;  or  beat  them  up  in  a  basin 
with  a  spoonful  of  flour,  two  eggs,  some  grated  lemon-peel, 
thyme,  parsley,  and  a  few  leaves  of  very  finely-minced  sage ; 
rub  them  well  together  in  a  mortar,  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a 
scrape  of  nutmeg;  fry  them  (in  little  cakes)  a  very  light 
brown ;  dish  up  the  hash  with  the  half-head  you  browned  in 
the  middle ;  and  garnish  with  crisp,  or  curled  rashers  of  bacon, 
fried  bread  sippets  (Nos.  319,  526,  and  527),  and  the  brain 
cakes. 

N.B.  It  is  by  far  thft  best  way  to  make  a  side  dish  of  the 
tongue  and  brains,  if  you  do  send  up  a  piece  of  bacon  as  a 
companion  for  it,  or  garnish  the  tongue  and  brains  with  the 
rashers  of  bacon  and  the  forcemeat  balls,  both  of  which  are 
much  better  kept  dry  than  when  immersed  in  the  gravy  of  the 
ragout. 

Obs.—ln  order  to  make  what  common  cooks,  who  merely 
cook  for  the  eye,  call  a  fine,  large,  handsome  dishful,  they 
put  in  not  only  the  eatable  parts,  but  all  the  knots  of  gristle, 
and  lumps  of  fat,  offal,  &c. ;  and  when  the  grand  gourmand 
fancies  he  is  helped  as  plentifully  as  he  could  wish,  he  often 
finds  one  solitary  morsel  of  meat  among  a  large  lot  of  lumps 
of  gristle,  fat,  &c. 

We  have  seen  a  very  elegant  dish  of  the  scalp  only,  sent  to 
table  rolled  up;  it  looks  like  a  sucking  pig. 

Veal  Cutlets  broiled  plain,  or  full-dressed.— (No.  521.) 

Divide  the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  veal  into  cutlets,  one  rib 
to  each ;  broil  them  plain,  or  make  some  fine  bread-crumbs : 
mince  a  little  parsley,  and  a  very  little  eschalot,  as  small  as- 
possible  ;  put  it  into  a  clean  stew-pan,  with  two  ounces  of 
butter,  and  fiy  it  for  a  minute ;  then  put  on  a  plate  the  yelks 
of  a  couple  of  eggs ;  mix  the  herbs,  &c.  with  it,  and  season 
it  with  pepper  and  salt :  dip  the  cutlets  into  this  mixture,  and 


MADE   DISHES,  &C.  323 

i 

then  into  the  bread ;  lay  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  slow 
fire,  till  they  are  nicely  browned  on  both  sides ;  they  will 
take  about  an  hour :  send  up  with  them  a  few  slices  of  ham 
or  bacon  fried,  or  done  in  the  Dutch  oven.  See  Nos.  526  and 
527,  and  half  a  pint  of  No.  343,  or  No.  356. 

Knuckle  of  Veal,  to  ragotit.—(No.  522.) 

Cut  a  knuckle  of  veal  into  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick ; 
pepper,  salt,  and  flour  them ;  fry  them  a  light  brown ;  put  the 
trimmings  into  a  stew-pan,  with  the  bone  broke  in  several 
places ;  an  onion  sliced,  a  head  of  celery,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  and  two  blades  of  bruised  mace :  pour  in  warm  water 
enough  to  cover  them  about  an  inch ;  cover  the  pot  close,  and 
let  it  stew  very  gently  for  a  couple  of  hours ;  strain  it,  and 
then  thicken  it  with  flour  and  butter ;  put  in  a  spoonful  of 
catchup,  a  glass  of  wine,  and  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  give  it 
a  boil  up,  and  strain  into  a  clean  stew-pan ;  put  in  the  meat, 
make  it  hot,  and  serve  up. 

Obs. — If  celery  is  not  to  be  had,  use  a  carrot  instead  or 
flavour  it  with  celery-seed,  or  No.  409. 

Knuckle  of  Veal  stewed  with  Rice.— (No.  523.) 

As  boiled  knuckle  of  veal  cold  is  not  a  very  favourite  relish 
With  the  generality,  cut  off  some  steaks  from  it,  which  you 
may  dress  as  in  the  foregoing  receipt,  or  No.  521,  and  leave 
the  knuckle  no  larger  than  will  be  eaten  the  day  it  is  dressed. 
Break  the  shank-bone,  wash  it  clean,  and  put  it  in  a  large 
stew-pan  with  two  quarts  of  water,  an  onion,  two  blades  of 
mace,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt :  set  it  on  a  quick  fire ;  when 
it  boils,  take  off  all  the  scum. 

Wash  and  pick  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice ;  put  it  into 
the  stew-pan  with  the  meat,  and  let  it  stew  very  gently  for 
about  two  hours :  put  the  meat,  &c.  in  a  deep  dish,  and  the 
rice  round  it. 

Send  up  bacon  with  it,  parsnips,  or  greens,  and  finely 
minced  parsley  and  butter,  No.  261. 

MR.  GAY'S  Receipt  to  stew  a  Knuckle  of  Veal— (No.  524.) 

Take  a  knuckle  of  veal ; 

You  may  buy  it  or  steal : 

In  a  few  pieces  cut  it,  ; . 

In  a  stewing-pan  put  it  ; 

Salt,  pepper,  and  mace, 

Must  season  this  knuckle , 
Th.en,  what 's  joined  to  a  place* 

With  other  herbs  muckle ; 

*  Vulgo,  salary, 


324  MADE    DISHES,  tfcc. 

That  which  kill'd  King  Will,* 

And  what  never  stands  still  •  j 

Some  sprigs  of  that  bed,t 

Where  children  are  bred. 

Which  much  you  will  mend,  it' 

Both  spinach  and  endive, 

And  lettuce  and  beet, 

With  marigold  meet. 

Put  no  water  at  all, 

For  it  maketh  things  small, 

Which  lest  it  should  happen, 

A  close  cover  clap  on ; 

Put  this  pot  of  Wood's  metal§ 

In  a  boiling  hot  kettle ; 

And  there  let  it  be, 

(Mark  the  doctrine  I  teach,) 
About,  let  me  see, 

Thrice  as  long  as  you  preach,  ij 
So  skimming  the  fat  off, 
Say  grace  with  your  hat  off, 
O !  then  with  what  rapture 
Wl«  it  fill  Dean  and  Chapter  ! 

Slices  of  Ham  or  Bacon.— (No.  526.) 

Ham,  or  bacon,  may  be  fried,  or  broiled  on  a  gridiron  over 
a  clear  fire,  or  toasted  with  a  fork:  take  care  to  slice  it  of  the 
same  thickness  in  every  part. 

If  you  wish  it  curled,  cut  it  in  slices  about  two  inches  long 
(if  longer,  the  outside  will  be  done  too  much  before  the  inside 
is  done  enough) ;  roll  it  up,  and  put  a  little  wooden  skewer 
through  it:  put  it  in  a  cheese-toaster,  or  Dutch  oven,  for 
eight  or  ten  minutes,  turning  it  as  it  gets  crisp. 

This  is  considered  the  handsomest  way  of  dressing  bacon ; 
but  we  like  it  best  uncurled,  because  it  is  crisper,  and  more 
equally  done. 

Obs. — Slices  of  ham  or  bacon  should  not  be  more  than  half 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  will  eat  much  more  mellow 
if  soaked  in  hot  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then 
dried  in  a  cloth  before  they  are  broiled,  &c. 

Relishing  Rashers  of  Bacon.— (No.  527.) 

If  you  have  any  cold  bacon,  you  may  make  a  very  nice 
dish  of  it  by  cutting  it  into  slices  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick;  grate  some  crust  of  bread,  as  directed  for  ham  (see 
No.  14),  and  powder  them  well  with  it  on  both  sides ;  lay  the 
rashers  in  a  cheese-toaster,  they  will  be  browned  on  one  side 
in  about  three  minutes,  turn  them  and  do  the  other. 

*  Supposed  sorrel. 

t  This  is  by  Dr.  BENTLEV  thought  to  be  time,  or  thyme. 

$  Parsley.    Vide  CHAMBERLAYNB. 

$  Of  this  composition,-  see  the  works  of  the  copper-farthing  dean-. 

0  Which  we  suppose  to  be  near  four  hours. 


MADE    DISHES,    &C. 

Obs. — These  are  a  delicious  accompaniment  to  poached 
oivfried  Eggs :  the  bacon  having  been  boiled*  first,  is  tender 
and  mellow.  They  are  an  excellent  garnish  round  veal 
cutlets,  or  sweet-breads,  or  calfs-head  hash,  or  green  pease, 
or  beans,  &c 

Hashed  Pennon.— (No.  528.) 

If  you  have  enough  of  its  own  gravy  left,  it  is  preferable 
to  any  to  warm  it  up  in :  if  not,  take  some  of  the  mutton 
gravy  (No.  347),  or  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  joint 
(after  you  have  cut  off  all  the  handsome  slices  you  can  to 
make  the  hash) ;  put  these  into  some  water,  and  stew  them 
gently  for  an  hour;  then  put  some  butter  into  a  stew-pan; 
when  melted,  put  to  it  as  much  flour  as  will  dry  up  the 
butter,  and  stir  it  well  together ;  add  to  it  by  degrees  the 
gravy  you  have  been  making  of  the  trimmings,  and  some  red 
currant  jelly ;  give  it  a  boil  up;  skim  it;  strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  and  it  is  ready  to  receive  the  venison :  put  it  in,  and 
let  it  just  get  warm :  if  you  let  it  boil,  it  will  make  the  meat 
hard. 

Hashed  Fare.— (No.  529.) 

Cut  up  the  hare  into  pieces  fit  to  help  at  table,  and  divide 
the  joints  of  the  legs  and  shoulders,  and  set  them  by  ready. 

Put  the  trimmings  and  gravy  you  have  left,  with  half  a 
pint  of  water  (there  should  be  a  pint  of  liquor),  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  currant  jelly,  into  a  clean  stew-pan,  and  let  it 
boil  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour :  then  strain  it  through  a 
sieve  into  a  basin,  and  pour  it  back  into  the  stew-pan ;  now 
flour  the  hare,  put  it  into  the  gravy,  and  let  it  simmer  very 
gently  till  the  hare  is  warm  (about  twenty  minutes) ;  cut  the 
stuffing  into  slices,  and  put  it  into  the  hash  to  get  warm,  about 
five  minutes  before  you  serve  it ;  divide  the  head,  and  lay  one 
half  on  each  side  the  dish. 

For  hare  soup,  see  No.  241,  mock  hare,  No.  66.* 

Jugged  Hare.— (No.  529*.) 

Wash  it  very  nicely;  cut  it  up  into  pieces  proper  to  help 
at  table,  and  put  them  into  a  jugging-pot,  or  into  a  stone  jar,f 

*  To  boil  bacon,  see  No.  13. 

t  Meat  dressed  by  the  heat  of  boiling  water,  without  being  immediately  exposed 
to  it,  is  a  mode  of  cookery  that  deserves  to  be  more  generally^employed :  it  becomes 
delicately  tender,  without  being  over-done,  and  the  whole  of  the  nourishment  and 
gravy  is  preserved.  This,  in  chemical  technicals,  is  called  balneum  mam,  a  water  - 

Ee 


326  MADE   DISHES,    &C. 

just  sufficiently  large  to  hold  it  well;  put  in  some  sweet 
herbs,  a  roll  or  two  of  rind  of  a  lemon,  or  a  Seville  orange, 
and  a  fine  large  onion  with  five  cloves  stuck  in  it, — and  if 
you  wish  to  preserve  the  flavour  of  the  hare,  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  water ;  if  you  are  for  a  ragout,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
claret,  or  port  wine,  and  the  juice  of  a  Seville  orange,  or 
lemon :  tie  the  jar  down  closely  with  a  bladder,  so  that  no 
steam  can  escape ;  put  a  little  hay  in  the  bottom  of  the  sauce- 
pan, in  which  place  the  jar,  and  pour  in  water  till  it  reaches 
within  four  inches  of  the  top  of  the  jar;  let  the  water  boil  for 
about  three  hours,  according  to  the  age  and  size  of  the  hare 
(take  care  it  is  not  over-done,  which  is  the  general  fault  in  all 
made  dishes,  especially  this),  keeping  it  boiling  all  the  time, 
and  fill  up  the  pot  as  it  boils  away.  When  quite  tender, 
strain  off  the  gravy  clear  from  fat ;  thicken  it  with  flour,  and 
give  it  a  boil  up :  lay  the  hare  in  a  soup-dish,  and  pour  the 
gravy  to  it. 

Ota.— You  may  make  a  pudding  the  same  as  for  roast  hare 
(see  No.  397),  and  boil  it  in  a  cloth ;  and  when  you  dish  up  your 
hare,  cut  it  in  slices,  or  make  forcemeat  balls  of  it,  for  garnish. 
,  For  sauce,  No.  346.  Or, 

1  A  much  easier  and  quicker,  and  more  certain  way  of  pro- 
ceeding, is  the  following : 

Prepare  the  hare  the  same  as  for  jugging;  put  it  into  a 
stew-pan  with  a  few  sweet  herbs,  half  a  dozen  cloves,  the 
same  of  allspice  and  black  pepper,  two  large  onions,  and  a 
roll  of  lemon-peel :  cover  it  with  water ;  when  it  boils,  skim 
it  clean,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  till  tender  (about  two  hours) ; 
then  take  it  up  with  a  slice,  and  set  it  by  the  fire  to  keep  hot 
while  you  thicken  the  gravy ;  take  three  ounces  of  butter, 
and  some  flour;  rub  together;  put  in  the  gravy;  stir  it  well, 
and  let  it  boil  about  ten  minutes ;  strain  it  through  a  sieve 
over  the  hare,  and  it  is  ready. 

Dressed  Ducks,  or  Geese  hashed.— (No.  530.) 

Cut  an  onion  into  small  dice;  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with 
a  bit  of  butter ;  fry  it,  but  do  not  let  it  get  any  colour ;  put 
as  much  boiling  water  into  the  stew-pan  as  will  make  sauce 
for  the  hash ;  thicken  it  with  a  little  flour ;  cut  up  the  duck, 
and  put  it  into  the  sauce  to  warm ;  do  not  let  it  boil ;  season 
it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  catchup. 

bath  ;  in  culinary,  bain-marie;  which  A.  CHAPPKLLE,  in  his  "  Modern  Cook,"8vo. 
page  25,  London,  1744,  translates  "  Mary's  bath."  See  note  to  No.  485. 

MARY  SMITH,  in  her  "  Complete  Housekeeper,"  1772,  Bvo.  pages  105  and  247, 
translates  "  Sauce  Robert,"  ROK-BOAT-SACCK  ;  an  "omelette"  alUMLXT ;  and  gives 
you  a  receipt  how  to  make  "  Soupe  d  la  RAIN  !" 


MADE    DISHES,   &C  327 

N.B.  The  legs  of  geese,  &c.  broiled,  and  laid  on  a  oed  of 
apple  sauce,  are  sent  up  for  luncheon  or  supper.  Or,] 

Divide  the  duck  into  joints ;  lay  it  by  ready ;  put  the  trim- 
mings and  stuffing  into  a  stew-pan,  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
broth  or  water;  let  it  boil  half  an  hour,  and  then  rub  it 
through  a  sieve ;  put  half  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan  ;  as  it  melts,  mix  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  with  it ;  stir  it 
over  the  fire  a  few  minutes,  then  mix  the  gravy  with  it  by 
degrees ;  as  soon  as  it  boils,  take  off  the  scum,  and  strain, 
through  a  sieve  into  a  stew-pan ;  put  in  the  duck,  and  let  it 
.stew  very  gently  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  if  the  duck  is 
rather  under-roasted :  if  there  is  any  fat,  skim  it  off:  line  the 
dish  you  serve  it  up  in  with  sippets  of  bread  either  fried  or 
toasted. 

Ragouts  of  Poultry,  Game,  Pigeons,  Rabbits,  4-c.— (No.  530*.) 

Half  roast  it,  then  stew  it  whole,  or  divide  it  into  joints 
and  pieces  proper  to  help  at  table,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan, 
with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  broth,  or  as  much  water,  with  any 
trimmings  or  parings  of  meat  you  have,  one  large  onion  with 
cloves  stuck  in  it,  twelve  berries  of  allspice,  the  same  of 
black  pepper,  and  a  roll  of  lemon-peel ;  when  it  boils,  skim 
it  very  clean ;  let  it  simmer  very  gently  for  about  an  hour 
and  a  quarter,  if  a  duck  or  fowl— longer  if  a  larger  bird ;  then 
strain  off  the  liquor,  and  leave  the  ducks  by  the  fire  to  keep 
hot ;  skim  the  fat  off;  put  into  a  clean  stew-pan  two  ounces 
of  butter;  when  it  is  hot  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  will  make 
it  of  a  stiff  paste  ;  add  the  liquor  by  degrees ;  let  it  boil  up ; 
put  in  a  glass  of  port  wine,  and  a  little  lemon-juice,  and 
simmer  it  ten  minutes ;  put  the  ducks,  &c.  into  the  dish,  and 
strain  the  sauce  through  a  fine  sieve  over  them. 

Garnish  with  sippets  of  toasted,  or  fried  bread,  No.  319. 

O65.— If  the  poultry  is  only  half  roasted,  and  stewed  only 
till  just  nicely  tender,  this  will  be  an  acceptable  bonne 
bouche  to  those  who  are  fond  of  made  dishes.  The  flavour 
may  be  varied  by  adding  catchup,  curry  powder,  or  any  of 
the  flavoured  vinegars. 

This  is  an  easily  prepared  side  dish,  especially  when  you 
have  a  large  dinner  to  dress ;  and  coming  to  table  ready 
carved  saves  a  deal  of  time  and  trouble ;  it  is  therefore  an 
excellent  way  of  serving  poultry,  &c.  for  a  large  party.  Or, 

Roast  or  boil  the  poultry  in  the  usual  way ;  then  cut  it  up, 
and  pour  over  it  a  sufficient  quantity  of  No.  305,  or  No.  339, 
or  No,  364,  or  No.  $. 


328  MADE    DISHES,    &C. 

Stewed  Giblets.— (No.  531.) 

Clean  two  sets  of  giblets  (see  receipt  for  giblet  soup,  No, 
-244) ;  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  just  cover  them  with  cold 
water,  and  set  them  on  the  fire ;  when  they  boil,  take  off  the 
scum,  and  put  in  an  onion,  three  cloves,  or  two  blades  of 
mace,  a  few  berries  of  black  pepper,  the  same  of  allspice,  and 
half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ;  cover  the  stew-pan  close,  and  let 
it  simmer  very  gently  till  the  giblets  are  quite  tender :  this 
will  take  from  one  hour  and  a  half  to  two  and  a  half,  ac- 
cording to  the  age  of  the  giblets ;  the  pinions  will  be  done 
first,  and  must  then  be  taken  out,  and  put  in  again  to  warm 
when  the  gizzards  are  done :  watch  them  that  they  do  not 
get  too  much  done :  take  them  out  and  thicken  the  sauce 
with  flour  and  butter ;  let  it  boil  half  an  hour,  or  till  there 
is  just  enough  to  eat  with  the  giblets,  and  then  strain  it 
through  a  tamis  into  a  clean  stew-pan;  cut  the  giblets  into 
mouthfuls ;  put  them  into  the  sauce  with  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup;  pour  the 
whole  into  a  soup-dish,  with  sippets  of  bread  at  the  bottom. 

Obs.— Ox-tails  prepared  in  the  same  way  are  excellent 
eating. 

Hashed  Poultry,  Game,  or  Rabbit.— (No.  533.) 

Cut  them  into  joints,  put  the  trimmings  into  a  stew-pan 
with  a  quart  of  the  broth  they  were  boiled  in,  and  a  large  onion 
cut  in  four ;  let  it  boil  half  an  hour ;  strain  it  through  a  sieve : 
then  put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  in  a  basin,  and  mix  it 
*  well  by  degrees  with  the  hot  broth ;  set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil 
up,  then  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve :  wash  out  the  stew- 
pan,  lay  the  poultry  in  it,  and  pour  the  gravy  on  it  (through  a 
sieve) ;  set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to  simmer  very  gently  (it 
must  not  boil)  for  fifteen  minutes ;  five  minutes  before  you 
serve  it  up,  cut  the  stuffing  in  slices,  and  put  it  in  to  warm, 
then  take  it  out,  and  lay  it  round  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and 
put  the  poultry  in  the  middle;  carefully  skim  the  fat  off  the 
gravy,  then  shake  it  round  well  in  the  stew-pan,  and  pour 
it  to  the  hash. 

N.B.  You  may  garnish  the  dish  with  bread  sippets  lightly 
toasted. 

Pulled  Turkey,  Fowl,  or  Ghicken.—(No.  534.) 

Skin  a  cold  chicken,  fowl,  or  turkey;  take  off  the  fillets 
from  the  breasts,  and  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  the  rest 


MADE    DISHES,    &C.  329 

of  the  white  meat  and  wings,  side-bones,  and  merry-thought, 
with  a  pint  of  broth,  a  large  blade  of  mace  pounded,  an 
eschalot  minced  fine,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  roll  of 
the  peel,  some  salt,  and  a  few  grains  of  Cayenne ;  thicken  it 
with  flour  and  butter,  and  let  it  simmer  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  till  the  meat  is  warm.  In  the  mean  time  score  the 
legs  and  rump,  powder  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  broil  them 
nicely  brown,  and  lay  them  on,  or  round  your  pulled  chicken. 
Obs. — Three  table-spoonfuls  of  good  cream,  or  the  yelks 
of  as  many  eggs,  will  be  a  great  improvement  to  it. 

To  dress  Dressed  Turkey,  Goose,  Fowl,  Duck,  Pigeon,  or 
Rabbit.— (No.  535.) 

Cut  them  in  quarters,  beat  up  an  egg  or  two  (according  to 
the  quantity  you  dress)  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and 
pepper  and  salt,  some  parsley  minced  fine,  and  a  few  crumbs 
of  bread ;  mix  these  well  together,  and  cover  the  fowl,  &c. 
with  this  batter ;  broil  them,  or  put  them  in  a  Dutch  oven,  ov 
have  ready  some  dripping  hot  in  a  pan,  in  which  fiy  them  a 
light  brown  colour;  thicken  a  little  gravy  with  some  flour,  put 
a  large  spoonful  of  catchup  to  it,  lay  the  fry  in  a  dish,  and 
pour  the  sauce  round  it.  You  may  garnish  with  slices  of 
lemon  and  toasted  bread.  See  No.  355. 

Devil— (No.  538.) 

The  gizzard  and  rump,  or  legs,  &c.  of  a  dressed  turkey, 
capon,  or  goose,  or  mutton  or  veal  kidney,  scored,  peppered, 
salted,  and  broiled,  sent  up  for  a  relish,  being  made  very  hot, 
has  obtained  the  name  of  a  "  devil." 

Obs. — This  is  sometimes  surrounded  with  No.  356,  or  a 
sauce  of  thick  melted  butter  or  gravy,  flavoured  with  catchup 
(No.  439),  essence  of  anchovy,  or  No.  434,  eschalot  wine 
(No.  402),  curry  stuff.  (No.  455,  &c.)  See  turtle  sauce  (No. 
343),  or  grill  sauce  (No.  355),  which,  as  the  palates  of  the 
present  day  are  adjusted,  will  perhaps  please  grands  gour- 
mands as  well  as  "'veritable  sauce  d'Enfer."—Vi&e  School  for 
the  Officers  of  the  Mouth,  p.  368,  18mo.  London,  1682. 

"  Every  man  must  have  experienced,  that  when  he  has  got  deep  into  his  third 
bottle,  his  palate  acquires  a  degree  of  torpidity,  and  his  stomach  is  seized  with  ;t 
certain  craving,  which  seem  to  demand  a  stimulant  to  the  powers  of  both.  The 
provocatives  used  on  such  occasions,  an  ungrateful  world  has  combined  to  term 

"  The  diables  au  feu  d'enfer,  or  dry  devils,  xre  usually  composed  of  the  broiled 
legs  and  gizzards  of  poultry,  fish-bones,  or  biscuits ;  and,  if  pungency  alone  can 
justify  their  appellation,  never  was  title  better  deserved,  for  they  are  usually  pre 
pared  without  any  other  intention  than  to  make  them  '  hot  as  their  native  element,' 
and  any  one  who  can  swallow  them  without  tears  in  his  eyes,  need  be  under  nu 

E  eS 


330  MADE    DISHES,    &C. 

apprehension  of  the  pains  of  futurity.  It  is  true,  they  answer  tne  purpose  of  exciting- 
thirst  ;  but  they  excoriate  the  palate,  vitiate  its  nicer  powers  of  discrimination,  and 
pall  the  relish  for  the  high  flavour  of  good  wine :  in  short,  no  man  should  venture 
upon  them  whose  throat  is  not  paved  with  mosaic,  unless  they  be  seasoned  by  a 
cook  who  can  poise  the  pepper-box  with  as  even  a  hand  as  a  judge  should  the  scales 
of  justice. 

"  It  would  be  an  insult  to  the  understanding  of  our  readers,  to  suppose  them  igno- 
rant of  the  usual  mode  of  treating  common  devils ;  but  we  shall  make  no  apology 
tor  giving  the  most  minute  instructions  for  the  preparation  of  a  gentler  stimulant, 
which,  besides,  possesses  this  advantage — that  it  may  be  all  done  at  the  table,  either 
by  yourself,  or  at  least  under  your  own  immediate  inspection. 

"  Mix  equal  parts  of  fine  salt,  Cayenne  pepper,  arid  curry  powder,  with  double 
the  quantity  of  powder  of  truffles:  dissect,  secundum  artem,  a  brace  of  woodcocks 
rather  under-roasted,  split  the  heads,  subdivide  the  wings,  &c.  &c.  and  powder  the 
whole  gently  over  with  the  mixture ;  crush  the  trail  and  brains  along  with  the  yelk 
of  a  hard-boiled  egg,  a  small  portion  of  pounded  mace,  the  grated  peel  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  half  a  spoonful  of  soy,  until  the  ingredients  be  brought  to  the  consistence 
of  a  fine  paste :  then  add  a  table-spoonful  of  catchup,  a  full  wine-glass  of  Madeira, 
and  the  juice  of  two  Seville  oranges :  throw  this  sauce,  along  with  the  birds,  into  a 
silver  stew-dish,  to  be  neated  with  spirits  of  wine :  cover  close  up,  light  the  lamp, 
and  keep  gently  simmering,  and  occasionally  stirring,  until  the  flesh  has  imbibed 
the  greater  part  of  the  liquid.  When  you  have  reason  to  suppose  it  is  completely 
saturated,  pour  in  a  small  quantity  of  salad  oil,  stir  all  once  more  well  together, 
'  put  out  the  light,  and  then !' — serve  it  round  instantly  ;  for  it  is  scarcely  necessary 
to  say,  that  a  devil  should  not  only  be  hot  in  itself,  but  eaten  hot. 

"  There  is,  however,  one  precaution  to  be  used  in  eating  it,  to  which  we  most 
earnestly  recommend  the  most  particular  attention  ;  and  for  want  of  Avhich,  more 
than  one  accident  has  occurred.  It  is  not,  as  some  people  might  suppose,  to  avoid 
Bating  too  much  of  it  (for  that  your  neighbours  will  take  good  care  to  prevent) ;  but 
it  is  this:  in  order  to  pick  the  bones,  you  must  necessarily  take  some  portion  of  it 
with  your  fingers ;  and,  as  they  thereby  become  impregnated  with  its  flavour,  if  you 
afterward  chance  to  let  them  touch  your  tongue,  you  will  infallibly  lick  them  to  the 
bone,  if  you  do  not  swallow  them  entire." — See  page  124,  &c.  of  the  entertaining 
"  Essays  on  Good  Living." 

Crusts  of  Bread  for  Cheese,  4>c.— (No.  538.) 

It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  both  in  private  families  and  at 
taverns  a  loaf  entirely  spoiled,  by  furious  epicures  paring  on' 
the  crust  to  eat  with  cheese  :  to  supply  this,  and  to  eat  with 
soups,  &c.  pull  lightly  into  small  pieces  the  crumb  of  a  new 
loaf;  put  them  on  a  tin  plate,  or  in  a  baking  dish;  set  it  in  a 
tolerably  brisk  oven  till  they  are  crisp,  and  nicely  browned, 
or  do  them  in  a  Dutch  oven. 

Toast  and  Cheese.— (No.  539.) 

"  Happy  the  man  that  has  each  fortune  tried, 
To  whom  she  much  has  giv'n,  and  much  denied  ; 
With  abstinence  all  delicates  he'  sees, 
And  can  regale  himself  on  toast  and  cheese." 

KING'S  Art  of  Cookery. 

Cut  a  slice  of  bread  about  half  an  inch  thick ;  pare  off  the 
crust,  and  toast  it  very  slightly  on  one  side  so  as  just  to  brown 
it,  without  making  it  hard  or  burning  it. 

Cut  a  slice  of  cheese  (good  fat  mellow  Cheshire  cheese,  or 
double  Gloster,  is  better  than  poor,  .thin,  single  Gloster)  a 


POUNDED   CHEESE.  331 

quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  not  so  big  as  the  bread  by  half  an 
inch  on  each  side :  pare  off  the  rind,  cut  out  all  the  specks 
and  rotten  parts,*  and  lay  it  on  the  toasted  bread  in  a  cheese- 
toaster  ;  carefully  watch  it  that  it  does  not  burn,  and  stir  it 
with  a  spoon  to  prevent  a  pellicle  forming  on  the  surface, 
Have  ready  good  mustard,  pepper  and  salt. 

If  you  observe  the  directions  here  given,  the  cheese  will 
eat  mellow,  and  will  be  uniformly  done,  and  the  bread  crisp 
and  soft,  and  will  well  deserve  its  ancient  appellation  of  a 
•'  rare  bit." 

Obs. — One  would  think  nothing  could  be  easier  than  to  pre- 
pare a  Welsh  rabbit ;  yet,  not  only  in  private  families,  but  at 
taverns,  it  is  very  seldom  sent  to  table  in  perfection.  We 
have  attempted  to  account  for  this  in  the  last  paragraph  of 
065.  to  No.  493. 

Toasted  Cheese,  No.  2.— (No.  540.) 

Wre  have  nothing  to  add  to  the  directions  given  for  toasting 
the  cheese  in  the  last  receipt,  except  that  in  sending  it  up,  it 
will  save  much  time  in  portioning  it  out  at  table,  if  you  have 
half  a  dozen  small  silver  or  tin  pans  to  fit  into  the  cheese- 
toaster,  and  do  the  cheese  in  these :  each  person  may  then 
be  helped  to  a  separate  pan,  and  it  will  keep  the  cheese  much 
hotter  than  the  usual  way  of  eating  it  on  a  cold  plate. 

MEM.  Send  up  with  it  as  many  cobblersf  as  you  have  pans 
of  cheese. 

O65. — Ceremony  seldom  triumphs  more  completely  over 
comfort  than  in  the  serving  out  of  this  dish ;  which,  to  be 
presented  to  the  palate  in  perfection,  it  is  imperatively  indis- 
pensable that  it  be  introduced  to  the  mouth  as  soon  as  it  ap- 
pears on  the  table. 

Buttered  Toast  and  Cheese.— (No.  541.) 

Prepare  a  round  of  toast;  butter  it;  grate  over  it  good 
Cheshire  cheese  about  half  the  thickness  of  the  toast,  and 
give  it  a  brown. 

Pounded  Cheese.— (No.  542.) 

Cut  a  pound  of  good  mellow  Chedder,  Cheshire,  or  North 
Wiltshire  cheese  into  thin  bits ;  add  to  it  two,  and  if  the 

*  Rotten  cheese  toasted  is  the  ne  plus  ultra  ofkaut  gout,  and  only  eatable  by  tue 
thorough-bred  gourmand  in  the  moat  inverted  state  of  his  jaded  appetite. ,' 
f  The  nursery  name  for  bread  toasted  on  one  side  only. 


MACARONI. 

cheese  is  dry,  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter ;  pound,  and  rub 
them  well  together  in  a  mortar  till  it  is  quite  smooth. 

Obs. — When  cheese  is  dry,  and  for  those  whose  digestion 
is  feeble,  this  is  the  best  way  of  eating  it ;  and  spread  on 
bread,  it  makes  an  excellent  luncheon  or  supper. 

N.B.  The  piquance  of  this  is  sometimes  increased  by 
pounding  with  it  curry  powder  (No.  455),  ground  spice,  black 
pepper,  cayenne,  and  a  little  made  mustard ;  and  some  moisten 
it  with  a  glass  of  sherry.  If  pressed  down  hard  in  a  jar, 
and  covered  with  clarified  butter,  it  will  keep  for  several  days 
in  cool  weather. 

Macaroni. — (No.  543.)    See  Macaroni  Pudding  for  the 
Boiling  of  it. 

The  usual  mode  of  dressing  it  in  this  country  is  by  adding 
a  white  sauce,  and  parmesan  or  Cheshire  cheese,  and 
burning  it ;  but  this  makes  a  dish  which  is  proverbially  un- 
wholesome :  its  bad  qualities  arise  from  the  oiled  and  burnt 
cheese,  and  the  half-dressed  flour  and  butter  put  into  the 
white  sauce. 

Macaroni  plain  boiled,  and  some  rich  stock  or  portable 
soup  added  to  it  quite  hot,  will  be  found  a  delicious  dish  and 
very  wholesome.  Or,  boil  macaroni  as  directed  in  the  re- 
ceipt for  the  pudding,  and  serve  it  quite  hot  in  a  deep  tureen, 
and  let  each  guest  add  grated  parmesan  and  cold  butter,  or 
oiled  butter  served  hot,  and  it  is  excellent ;  this  is  the  most 
common  Italian  mode  of  dressing  it.  Macaroni  with  cream, 
sugar,  and  cinnamon,  or  a  little  varicelli  added  to  the  cream, 
makes  a  very  nice  sweet  dish. 

English  way  of  dressing  Macaroni. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  riband  macaroni  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  or  broth,  or  water ;  let  it  boil 
gently  till  it  is  tender,  this  will  take  about  a  quarter  of  an 
iiour ;  then  put  in  an  ounce  of  grated  cheese,  and  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  salt ;  mix  it  well  together,  and  put  it  on  a  dish,  and 
stew  over  it  two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan  or  Cheshire 
cheese,  and  give  it  a  light  brown  in  a  Dutch  oven.  Or  put 
all  the  cheese  into  the  macaroni,  and  put  bread-crumbs  over 
.the  top. 

Macaroni  is  very  good  put  into  a  thick  sauce  with  some 
shreds  of  dressed  ham,  or  in  a  curry  sauce.  Riband  maca- 
roni is  best  for  these  dishes,  and  should  not  be  done  so 
much. 

c 


OMELETTES.  333 

Macaroni  Pudding. 

One  of  the  most  excellent  preparations  of  macaroni  is  the 
Timbale  de  Macaroni.  Simmer  half  a  pound  of  macaroni  in 
plenty  of  water,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  salt,  till  it  is  tender; 
but  take  care  not  to  have  it  too  soft ;  though  tender,  it  should 
be  firm,  and  the  form  entirely  preserved,  and  no  part  begin- 
ning to  melt  (this  caution  will  serve  for  the  preparation  of 
all  macaroni).  Strain  the  water  from  it ;  beat  up  five  yelks 
and  the  white  of  two  eggs;  take  half  a  pint  of  the  best 
cream,  and  the  breast  of  a  fowl,  and  some  thin  slices  of  ham. 
Mince  the  breast  of  the  fowl  with  the  ham ;  add  them  with 
from  two  to  three  table-spoonfuls  of  finely-grated  parmesan 
cheese,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Mix  all  these  with 
the  macaroni,  and  put  into  a  pudding-mould  well  buttered, 
and  then  let  it  steam  in  a  stew-pan  of  boiling  water  for  about 
an  hour,  and  serve  quite  hot,  with  rich  gravy  (as  in  Omelette). 
See  No.  543*. 

Obs. — This,  we  have  been  informed,  is  considered  by  a 
grand  gourmand  as  the  most  important  recipe  which  was 
added  to  the  collection  of  his  cook  during  a  gastronomic  tour 
through  Europe ;  it  is  not  an  uncommon  mode  of  preparing 
macaroni  on  the  -continent. 

Omelettes  and  various  ways  of  dressing  Eggs. — (No.  543*.) 

There  is  no  dish  which  in  this  country  may  be  considered 
as  coming  under  the  denomination  of  a  made  dish  of  the 
second  order,  which  is  so  generally  eaten,  if  good,  as  an 
omelette ;  and  no  one  is  so  often  badly  dressed :  it  is  a  very 
faithful  assistant  in  the  construction  of  a  dinner. 

When  you  are  taken  by  surprise,  and  wish  to  make  an 
appearance  beyond  what  is  provided  for  the  every-day  dinner, 
a  little  portable  soup  melted  down,  and  some  zest  (No.  255), 
and  a  few  vegetables,  will  make  a  good  broth ;  a  pot  of  the 
stewed  veal  of  Morrison's,  warmed  up ;  an  omelette ;  and 
some  apple  or  lemon  fritters,  can  all  be  got  ready  at  ten 
minutes*  notice,  and  with  the  original  foundation  of  a  leg  of 
mutton,  or  a  piece  of  beef,  will  make  up  a  very  good  dinner 
when  company  unexpectedly  arrives,  in  the  country. 

The  great  merit  of  an  omelette  is,  that  it  should  not  be 
greasy,  burnt,  nor  too  much  done :  if  too  much  of  the  white 
of  the  eggs  is  left  in,  no  art  can  prevent  its  being  hard,  if  it 
is  done :  to  dress  the  omelette,  the  fire  should  not  be  too  hot, 
as  it  is  an  object  to  have  the  whole  substance  heated,  without 
much  browning  the  outside. 


334  OMELETTES. 

One  of  the  great  errors  in  cooking  an  omelette  is,  that  it 
is  too  thin;  consequently,  instead  of  feeling  full  and  moist 
in  the  mouth,  the  substance  presented  is  little  better  than  a 
piece  of  fried  leather :  to  get  the  omelette  thick  is  one  of  the 
great  objects.  With  respect  to  the  flavours  to  be  introduced, 
these  are  infinite ;  that  which  is  most  common,  however,  is 
the  best,  viz.  finely  chopped  parsley,  and  chives  or  onions,  or 
eschalots :  however,  one  made  of  a  mixture  of  tarragon, 
chervil,  and  parsley,  is  a  very  delicate  variety,  omitting  or 
adding  the  onion  or  chives.  Of  the  meat  flavours,  the  veal 
kidney  is  the  most  delicate,  and  is  the  most  admired  by  our 
neighbours  the  French :  this  should  be  cut  in  dice,  and  should 
be  dressed  (boiled)  before  it  is  added ;  in  the  same  manner, 
ham  and  anchovies,  shred  small,  or  tongue,  will  make  a  very 
delicately  flavoured  dish. 

The  objection  to  an  omelette  is,  that  it  is  too  rich,  which 
makes  it  advisable  to  eat  but  a  small  quantity.  An  addition 
of  some  finely  mashed  potatoes,  about  two  table-spoonfuls, 
to  an  omelette  of  six  eggs,  will  much  lighten  it. 

Omelettes  are  often  served  with  rich  gravy;  but,  as  a  gene- 
ral principle,  no  substance  which  has  been  fried  should  be 
served  in  gravy,  but  accompanied  by  it .  or  what  ought  to 
eat  dry  and  crisp,  becomes  soddened  and  flat. 

In  the  compounding  the  gravy,  great  care  should  be  taken 
that  the  flavour  does  not  overcome  that  of  the  omelette,  a 
tiling  too  little  attended  to :  a  fine  gravy,  with  a  flavouring 
of  sweet  herbs  and  onions,  we  think  the  best ;  some  add  a  few 
drops  of  tarragon  vinegar ;  but  this  is  to  be  done  only  with 
great  care:  gravies  to  Omelettes  are  in  general  thickened: 
this  should  never  be  done  with  flour ;  potato  starch,  or  arrow 
root,  is  the  best. 

Omelettes  should  be  fried  in  a  small  frying-pan  made  for 
that  purpose,  with  a  small  quantity  of  butter.  The  omelette's 
great  merit  is  to  be  thick,  so  as  not  to  taste  of  the  outside; 
therefore  use  only  half  the  number  of  whites  that  you  do 
yelks  of  eggs :  every  care  must  be  taken  in  frying,  even  at 
the  risk  of  not  having  it  quite  set  in  the  middle :  an  omelette, 
which  has  so  much  vogue  abroad,  is  here,  in  general,  a  thin 
doubled-up  piece  of  leather,  and  harder  than  soft  leather 
sometimes.  The  fact  is,  that  as  much  care  must  be  bestowed 
on  the  frying,  as  should  be  taken  in  poaching  an  egg.  A 
salamander  is  necessary  to  those  who  will  have  the  top 
brown;  but  the  kitchen  shovel  may  be  substituted  for  it. 

The  following  receipt  is  the  basis  of  all  omelettes,  of 
which  you  may  make  an  endless  variety,  by  taking,  instead 
of  the  parsley  and  eschalot,  a  portion  of  sweet  herbs,  or  any 


OMELETTES.  335 

of  the  articles  enumerated  in  the  table  of  materials  used  for 
making  forcemeats,  see  No.  373 ;  or  any  of  the  forcemeats 
between  Nos.  373  and  386. 

Omelettes  are  called  by  the  name  of  what  is  added  to 
flavour  them:  a  ham  or  tongue  omelette;  an  anchovy,  or 
veal  kidney  omelette,  &c. :  these  are  prepared  exactly  in  the 
same  way  as  in  the  first  receipt,  leaving  out  the  parsley  and. 
eschalot,  and  mincing  the  ham  or  kidney  very  fine,  &c.,  and 
adding  that  in  the  place  of  them,  and  then  pour  over  them  all 
sorts  of  thickened  gravies,  sauces,  &c. 

Receipt  for  the  common  Omelette. 

Five  or  six  eggs  will  make  a  good-sized  omelette ;  break 
them  into  a  basin,  and  beat  them  well  with  a  fork ;  and  add 
a  salt-spoonful  of  salt ;  have  ready  chopped  two  drachms  of 
onion,  or  three  drachms  of  parsley,  a  good  clove  of  eschalot 
minced  very  fine ;  beat  it  well  up  with  the  eggs ;  then  take 
four  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  and  break  half  of  it  into  little 
bits,  and  put  it  into  the  omelette,  and  the  other  half  into  a  very 
clean  frying-pan ;  when  it  is  melted,  pour  in  the  omelette, 
and  stir  it  with  a  spoon  till  it  begins  to  set,  then  turn  it  up  all 
round  the  edges,  and  when  it  is  of  a  nice  brown  it  is  done : 
the  safest  way  to  take  it  out  is  to  put  a  plate  on  the  omelette, 
and  turn  the  pan  upside-down:  serve  it  on  a  hot  dish;  it 
should  never  be  done  till  just  wanted.  If  maigre,  grated 
cheese,  shrimps,  or  oysters.  If  oysters,  boil  them  four 
minutes,  and  take  away  the  beard  and  gristly  part ;  they  may 
either  be  put  in  whole,  or  cut  in  bits.  Or, 

Take  eggs  ready  boiled  hard,  and  either  fry  them  whole, 
or  cut  them  in  half;  when  they  are  boiled  (they  will  take  five 
minutes),  let  them  lie  in  cold  water  till  you  want  to  use  them ; 
then  roll  them  lightly  with  your  hand  on  a  table,  and  they 
will  peel  without  breaking ;  put  them  on  a  cloth  to  dry,  and 
dredge  them  lightly  with  flour ;  beat  two  eggs  in  a  basin,  dip 
the  eggs  in,  one  at  a  time,  and  then  roll  them  in  fine  bread- 
crumbs, or  in  duck  (No.  378)  or  veal  stuffing  (No.  374) ;  set 
them  away  ready  for  frying ;  fry  them  in  hot  oil  or  clarified 
butter,  serve  them  up  with  mushroom  sauce,  or  any  other 
thickened  sauce  you  please ;  crisp  parsley  is  a  pretty  gar- 
nish. Or, 

Do  not  boil  the  eggs  till  wanted ;  boil  them  ten  minutes, 
peel  them  as  above,  cut  them  in  half,  put  them  on  a  dish,  and 
have  ready  a  sauce  made  of  two  ounces  of  butter  and  flour 
well  rubbed  together  on  a  plate,  and  put  it  in  a  stew-pan  with 
three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  good  milk ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and 


330  EGOS. 

stir  it  till  it  boils ;  if  it  is  not  quite  smooth,  strain  it  through 
a  sieve,  chop  some  parsley  and  a  clove  of  eschalot  as  fine  as 
possible,  and  put  in  your  sauce :  season  it  with  salt  to  your 
taste :  a  little  mace  and  lemon-peel  boiled  with  the  sauce, 
will  improve  it :  if  you  like  it  still  richer,  you  may  add  a 
little  cream,  or  the  yelks  of  two  eggs,  beat  up  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  and  stir  it  in  the  last  thing :  do  not  let  it 
boil  after;  place  the  half  eggs  on  a  dish  with  the  yelks 
upward,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  them. 

N.B.  Any  cold  fish  cut  in  pieces  may  be  warmed  in  the 
above  sauce  for  a  sent  dinner.  Or, 

Slice  very  thin  two  onions  weighing  about  two  ounces 
each;  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  three  ounces  of  butter; 
keep  them  covered  till  they  are  just  done ;  stir  them  every 
now  and  then,  and  when  they  are  of  a  nice  brown,  stir  in  as 
much  flour  as  will  make  them  of  a  stiff  paste ;  then  by  de- 
grees add  as  much  water  or  milk  as  will  make  it  the  thick- 
ness of  good  cream ;  season  it  with,  pepper  and  salt  to  your 
taste ;  have  ready  boiled  hard  four  or  five  eggs — you  may 
either  shred  them,  or  cut  them  in  halves  or  quarters ;  then 
put  them  in  the  sauce :  when  they  are  hot  they  are  ready : 
garnish  them  with  sippets  of  bread. 

Or,  have  ready  a  plain  omelette,  cut  into  bits,  and  put  them 
into  the  sauce. 

Or,  cut  off  a  little  bit  of  one  end  of  the  eggs,  so  that  they 
may  stand  up ;  and  take  out  the  yelks  whole  of  some  of  them, 
and  cut  the  whites  in  half,  or  in  quarters. 

O&s.-— This  is  called  in  the  Parisian  kitchen, "  eggs  a  la  trip, 
with  a  roux." 

Marrow-Bones.— (No.  544.) 

Saw  the  bones  even,  so  that  they  will  stand  steady;  put  a 
piece  of  paste  into  the  ends :  set  them  upright  in  a  saucepan, 
and  boil  till  they  are  done  enough :  a  beef  marrow-bone  will 
require  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours ;  serve  fresh- 
toasted  bread  with  them. 

Eggs  fried  with  Bacon.— (No.  545.) 

Lay  some  slices  of  fine  streaked  bacon  (not  more  than  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick)  in  a  clean  dish,  and  toast  them 
before  the  fire  in  a  cheese-toaster,  turning  them  when  the 
upper  side  is  browned ;  fLst  ask  those  who  are  to  eat  the 
bacon,  if  they  wish  it  much  or  little  done,  i.  e.  curled  and 
crisped,  see  No.  526,  or  mellow  and  soft  (No.  527) :  if  the 
latter,  parboil  it  first. 


EGGS.  337 

Well-cleansed  (see  No.  83)  dripping,  or  lard,  or  fresh  but- 
ter, are  the  best  fats  for  frying  eggs. 

Be  sure  the  frying-pan  is  quite  clean ;  when  the  fat  is  hot* 
break  two  or  three  eggs  into  it ;  do  not  turn  them,  but,  while 
they  are  frying,  keep  pouring  some  of  the  fat  over  them  with 
a  spoon ;  when  the  yelk  just  begins  to  look  white,  which  it 
will  in  about  a  couple  of  minutes,  they  are  done  enough  j 
the  white  must  not  lose  its  transparency,  but  the  yelk  be 
seen  blushing  through  it :  if  they  are  done  nicely,  they  will 
look  as  white  and  delicate  as  if  they  had  been  poached ;  take 
them  up  with  a  tin  slice,  drain  the  fat  from  them,  trim  them 
neatly,  and  send  them  up  with  the  bacon  round  them. 

Ragout  of  Eggs  and  Bacon.— (No.  545*.) 

Boil  half  a  dozen  eggs  for  ten  minutes ;  throw  them  into 
<:old  water ;  peel  them  and  cut  them  into  halves ;  pound  the 
yelks  in  a  marble  mortar,  with  about  an  equal  quantity  of 
the  white  meat  of  dressed  fowl,  or  veal,  a  little  chopped  pars- 
ley, an  anchovy,  an  eschalot,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  butter, 
a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  catchup,  a  little  Cayenne,  some 
bread-crumbs,  and  a  very  little  beaten  mace,  or  allspice ; 
Incorporate  them  well  together,  and  fill  the  halves  of  the 
whites  with  this  mixture ;  do  them  over  with  the  yelk  of  an 
egg,  and  brown  them  in  a  Dutch  oven,  and  serve  them  on 
relishing  rashers  of  bacon  or  ham,  see  No.  527. 

For  sauce,  melted  butter,  flavoured  to  the  fancy  of  the 
caters,  with  mushroom  catchup,  anchovy,  curiy-powder  (No. 
455),  or  zest  (No.  255). 

To  poach  Eggs.— (No.  546.) 

The  cook  who  wishes  to  display  her  skill  in  poaching, 
must  endeavour  to  procure  eggs  that  have  been  laid  a  couple 
of  days — those  that  are  quite  new-laid  are  so  milky  that,  take 
all  the  care  you  can,  your  cooking  of  them  will  seldom  pro- 
t-ure  you  the  praise  of  being  a  prime  poacher;  you  must 
have  fresh  eggs,  or  it  is  equally  impossible. 

The  beauty  of  a  poached  egg  is  for  the  yelk  to  be  seen 
blushing  through  the  white,  which  should  only  be'  just  suffi* 
riently  hardened,  to  form  a  transparent  veil  for  the  egg. 

Have  some  boiling  water*  in  a  tea-kettle ;  pass  as  much 
of  it  through  a  clean  cloth  as  will  half  fill  a  stew-pan ;  break 
the  egg  into  a  cup,  and  when  the  water  boils,  remove  the 
stew-pan  from  the  stove,  and  gently  slip  the  egg  into  it ;  it 

*  Straining  the  water  is  an  indispensable  precaution,  unless  you  use  spring-  water- 
Ff 


338  EGGS. 

must  stand  till  the  white  is  set;  then  put  it  over  a  very 
moderate  fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  water  boils,  the  egg  is 
ready;  take  it  up  with  a  slice,  and  neatly  round  off  the  ragged 
edges  of  the  white ;  send  them  up  on  bread  toasted  on  one 
side  only,*  with  or  without  butter ;  or  without  a  toast,  gar- 
nished with  streaked  bacon  (Nos.  526  or  527),  nicely  fried, 
or  as  done  in  No.  545,  or  slices  of  broiled  beef  or  mutton 
(No.  487),  anchovies  (Nos.  434  and  435),  pork  sausages  (No. 
87),  or  spinage  (No.  122). 

Obs. — The  bread  should  be  a  little  larger  than  the  egg,  and 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick ;  only  just  give  it  a  yellow 
colour :  if  you  toast  it  brown,  it  will  get  a  bitter  flavour ;  or 
moisten  it  by  pouring  a  little  hot  water  upon  it :  some  sprinkle 
it  with  a  few  drops  of  vinegar,  or  of  essence  of  anchovy 
(No.  433). 

To  boil  Eggs  to  eat  in  the  Shell,  or  for  Salads.— (No.  547.) 

The  fresher  laid  the  better:  put  them  into  boiling  water; 
if  you  like  the  white  just  set,f  about  two  minutes  boiling  is 
enough ;  a  new-laid  egg  will  take  a  little  more ;  if  you  wish 
the  yelk  to  be  set,  it  will  take  three,  and  to  boil  it  hard  for  a 
salad,  ten  minutes.  See  No.  372. 

Obs. — A  new-laid  egg  will  require  boiling  longer  than  a 
stale  one,  by  half  a  minute. 

Tin  machines  for  boiling  eggs  on  the  breakfast  table  are 
sold  by  the  ironmongers,  which  perform  the  process  very 
regularly:  in  four  minutes  the  white  is  just  set. 

N.B.  "  Eggs  may  be  preserved  for  twelve  months,  in  a 
sweet  and  palatable  state  for  eating  in  the  shell,  or  using  for 
salads,  by  boiling  them  for  one  minute ;  and  when  wanted 
for  use  let  them  be  boiled  in  the  usual  manner :  the  white 
may  be  a  little  tougher  than  a  new-laid  egg,  but  the  yelk  will 
show  no  difference." — See  HUNTER'S  Culina,  page  257. 

Eggs  poached  with  Sauce  of  minted  Ham. — (No.  548.) 

Poach  the  eggs  as  before  directed,  and  take  two  or  three 
slices  of  boiled  hain ;  mince  it  fine  with  a  gherkin,  a  morsel 
of  onion,  a  little  parsley,  and  pepper  and  salt;  stew  all 
together  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  serve  up  your  sauce  about 

*  "A  couple  of  poached  eggs,  with  a  few  fine,  dry,  fried  collops  of  pure  bacon, 
are  not  bad  for  breakfast,  or  to  begin  a  meal,"  says  Sir  KKNELM  DIGBY,  M.D.  in  his 
Qloset  of  Cookery,  London,  1669,  page  167. 

t  "  The  lightest  mode  of  preparing  eggs  for  the  table,  is  to  boil  them  only  as  long 
as  is  necessary  to  coagulate  slightly  the  greater  part  of  the  white,  without  depriving 
the  yelk  of  its  fluidity."— Dr.  PEARSON'S  Mat.  Mm.  8vo.  1808,  p.  36. 


TEA.  33!) 

half  boiling ;  put  the  eggs  in  a  dish,  squeeze  over  the  juice 
of  half  a  Seville  orange,  or  lemon,  and  pour  the  sauce  over 
them. 

Fried  Eggs  and  minced  Ham  or  Bacon. — (No.  549.) 

Choose  some  very  fine  bacon  streaked  with  a  good  deal  of 
lean ;  cut  this  into  very  thin  slices,  and  afterward  into  small 
square  pieces ;  throw  them  into  a  stew-pan,  and  set  it  over  a 
gentle  fire,  that  they  may  lose  some  of  their  fat.  When  as 
much  as  will  freely  come  is  thus  melted  from  them,  lay  them 
on  a  warm  dish.  Put  into  a  stew-pan  a  ladle-full  of  melted 
bacon  or  lard ;  set  it  on  a  stove ;  put  in  about  a  dozen  of  the 
small  pieces  of  bacon,  then  stoop  the  stew-pan  and  break  in 
an  egg.  Manage  this  carefully,  and  the  egg  will  presently 
be  done :  it  will  be  very  round,  and  the  little  dice  of  bacon 
will  stick  to  it  all  over,  so  that  it  will  make  a  very  pretty 
appearance.  Take  care  the  yelks  do  not  harden ;  when  the 
egg  is  thus  done,  lay  it  carefully  in  a  warm  dish,  and  do  the 
others. 

V  They  reckon  685  ways  of  dressing  eggs  in  the  French 
kitchen:  we  hope  our  half  dozen  receipts  give  sufficient 
variety  for  the  English  kitchen. 

Tea,*— (No.  550.) 

"  The  Jesuit  that  came  from  China,  A.  D.  1664,  told  Mr. 
Waller,  that  to  a  drachm  of  tea  they  put  a  pint  of  water,  and 

*  VARIOUS  WAYS  OF  MAKING  TEA. 
1. 

"  The  Japanese  reduce  their  tea  to  a  fine  powder  by  pounding  it ;  they  put  certain 
portions  of  this  into  a  tea-cup,  pour  boiling  water  upon  it,  stir  it  up,  and  drink  it  as 
soon  as  it  is  cool  enough." 

2. 

"  DUBUISSON'S  MANNER  or  MAKING  TEA. 

"  Put  the  tea  into  a  kettle  with  cold  water ;  cover  it  close,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and 
make  it  all  but  boil ;  when  you  see  a  sort  of  white  scum  on  the  surface,  take  it  frora 
flie  fire ;  when  the  leaves  sink  it  is  ready." 

3. 

The  night  before  you  wish  to  have  tea  ready  for  drinking,  pour  on  it  as  much 
cold  water  as  you  wish  to  make  tea ;  next  morning  pour  off  the  clear  liquor,  and 
when  you  wish  to  drink  it,  make  it  warm." 

The  above  are  from  "L'Art  du  Limonadier"  de  DUBUISSON,  Paris,  p.  267* 
m  Or, 

4, 

"  A  great  saving  may  be  made  by  making  a  tincture  of  tea,  thus :  pour  boiling 
water  upon  it,  and  let  it  stand  twenty  minutes,  putting  into  each  cup  no  more  than 
is  necessary  to  fill  it  about  one-third  full :  fill  each  cup  up  with  hot  water  from  an 
urn  or  kettle  ;  thus  the  tea  will  be  always  hot  and  equally  strong  to  the  end,  and 
one  tea-spoonful  will  be  found  enough  for  three  cups  for  each  person :  according  to 


340  PUDDINGS. 

frequently  take  the  yelks  of  two  new-laid  eggs,  and  beat 
them  up  with  as  much  fine  sugar  as  is  sufficient  for  the  tea, 
and  stir  all  well  together.  He  also  informed  him,  that  we 
let  the  hot  water  remain  too  long  soaking  upon  the  tea,  which 
makes  it  extract  into  itself  the  earthy  parts  of  the  herb ;  the 
water  must  remain  upon  it  no  longer  than  while  you  can  say 
the  *  Miserere*  psalm  very  leisurely ;  you  have  then  only  the 
spiritual  part  of  the  tea,  the  proportion  of  which  to  the  water 
must  be  about  a  drachm  to  a  pint." — Sir  KENELM  DIGBY'S 
Cookery,  London,  1669,  page  176. 

06s. — The  addition  of  an  egg  makes  the  " Chinese  Soup" 
a  more  nutritious  and  substantial  meal  for  a  traveller. 

Coffee.* 

Coffee,  as  used  on  the  Continent,  serves  the  double  purpose 
of  an  agreeable  tonic,  and  an  exhilarating  beverage,  without 
the  unpleasant  effects  of  wine. 

Coffee,  as  drunk  in  England,  debilitates  the  stomach,  and 
produces  a  slight  nausea.  In  France  and  in  Italy  it  is  made 
strong  from  the  best  coffee,  and  is  poured  out  hot  and  trans- 
parent. 

In  England  it  is  usually  made  from  bad  coffee,  served  out 
tepid  and  muddy,  and  drowned  in  a  deluge  of  water,  and 
sometimes  deserves  the  title  given  it  in  "  the  Petition  against 
Coffee,"  4to.  1674,  page  4,  "  a  base,  black,  thick,  nasty,  bitter, 
stinking  puddle  water." 

To  make  Coffee  fit  for  use,  you  must  employ  the  German 
filter, — pay  at  least  4s.  the  pound  for  it, — and  take  at  least  an 
ounce  for  two  breakfast-cups. 

No  coffee  will  bear  drinking  with  what  is  called  milk  in 
London. 

London  people  should  either  take  their  coffee  pure,  or  put 
a  couple  of  tea-spoonfuls  of  cream  to  each  cup. 

N.B.  The  above  is  a  contribution  from  an  intelligent  tra- 
veller, who  has  passed  some  years  on  the  Continent. 

Suet  Pudding,  Wiggtfs  way.— (No.  551.) 
Suet,  a  quarter  of  a  pound ;  flour,  three  table-spoonfuls ; 

the  present  mode  of  making  it,  three  times  the  quantity  is  often  used." — See  Dr 
TRUSLER'S  Way  to  be  Rich  and  Respectable,  8vo.  1796,  page  27. 

[Tea  should  only  be  made  as  an  infusion,— that  is,  pouring  boiling  hot  water  upon 
it,  and  letting  it  stand  a  few  minutes  to  draw.  A.] 

*  See  Dr.  Houghton  on  Coffee,  in  vol.  xxi.  of  the  Phil.  Trans,  page  311. 

[The  best  of  coffee  is  imported  into  this  country,  and  can  be  had  cheap  and 
good.  A.] 


PUDDINGS.  341 

eggs,  two;  and  a  little  grated  ginger;  milk,  half  a  pint. 
Mince  the  suet  as  fine  as  possible,  roll  it  with  the  rolling-pin 
so  as  to  mix  it  well  with  the  flour ;  beat  up  the  eggs,  mix 
them  with  the  milk,  and  then  mix  all  together ;  wet  your 
cloth  well  in  boiling  water,  flour  it,  tie  it  loose,  put  it  into 
boiling  water,  and  boil  it  an  hour  and  a  quarter. 

Mrs.  Glasse  has  it,  "when  you  have  made  your  water 
boil,  then  put  your  pudding  into  your  pot." 

Yorkshire  Pudding  under  roast  Meat,  the  Gipsies1  way. 
(No.  552.) 

This  pudding  is  an  especially  excellent  accompaniment  to 
a  sir-loin  of  beef, — loin  of  veal, — or  any  fat  and  juicy  joint. 

Six  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  three  eggs,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  pint  of  milk,  so  as  to  make  a  middling  stiff  batter, 
a  little  stiffer  than  you  would  for  pancakes ;  beat  it  up  well, 
and  take  care  it  is  not  lumpy ;  put  a  dish  under  the  meat,  and 
let  the  drippings  drop  into  it  till  it  is  quite  hot  and  well 
greased ;  then  pour  in  the  batter ; — when  the  upper  surface 
is  brown  and  set,  turn  it,  that  both  sides  may  be  brown  alike : 
if  you  wish  it  to  cut  firm,  and  the  pudding  an  inch  thick,  it 
will  take  two  hours  at  a  good  fire. 

N.B.  The  true  Yorkshire  pudding  is  about  half  an  inch 
thick  when  done ;  but  it  is  the  fashion  in  London  to  make 
them  full  twice  that  thickness. 

Plum  Pudding'.— (No.  553.) 

Suet,  chopped  fine,  six  ounces ;  Malaga  raisins,  stoned, 
six  ounces ;  currants,  nicely  washed  and  picked,  eight  ounces; 
bread-crumbs,  three  ounces ;  flour,  three  ounces ;  eggs,  three ; 
sixth  of  a  nutmeg;  small  blade  of  mace ;  same  quantity  of  cin- 
namon, pounded  as  fine  as  possible ;  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt ; 
half  a  pint  of  milk,  or  rather  less ;  sugar,  four  ounces :  to  which 
may  be  added,  candied  lemon,  one  ounce ;  citron,  half  an  ounce. 
Beat  the  eggs  and  spice  well  together ;  mix  the  milk  with 
them  by  degrees,  then  the  rest  of  the  ingredients ;  dip  a  fine 
close  linen  cloth  into  boiling  water,  and  put  it  in  a  hair-sieve ; 
flour  it  a  little,  and  tie  it  up  close ;  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
containing  six  quarts  of  boiling  water:  keep  a  kettle  of 
boiling  water  along  side  of  it,  and  fill  up  your  pot  as  it  wastes ; 
be  sure  to  keep  it  boiling  six  hours  at  least. 

My  Pudding.— (No.  554.) 

Beat  up  the  yelks  and  whites  of  three  eggs ;  strain  them 
Ff2 


942  PUDDINGS. 

through  a  sieve  (to  keep  out  the  treddles),  and  gradually  add 
to  them  about  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  milk, — stir  these  well  to- 
gether; rub  together  in  a  mortar  two  ounces  of  moist  sugar, 
and  as  much  grated  nutmeg  as  will  lie  on  a  sixpence, — stir 
these  into  the  eggs  and  milk ;  then  put  in  four  ounces  of  flour, 
and  beat  it  into  a  smooth  batter ;  by  degrees  stir  into  it  seven 
ounces  of  suet  (minced  as  fine  as  possible),  and  three  ounces 
of  bread-crumbs ;  mix  all  thoroughly  together  at  least  half 
an  hour  before  you  put  the  pudding  into  the  pot;  put  it  into 
an  earthenware  pudding-mould  that  you  have  well  buttered ; 
tie  a  pudding-cloth  over  it  very  tight ;  put  it  into  boiling  water, 
and  boil  it  three  hours. 

Put  one  good  plum  into  it,  and  Moost-Aye  says,  you  may 
then  tell  the  economist  that  you  have  made  a  good  plum  pud- 
ding— without  plums:  this  would  be  what  schoolboys  call 
"mile-stone  pudding,"  i.  e.  " a  mile  between  one  plum  and 
another." 

N.B.  Half  a  pound  of  Muscatel  raisins  cut  in  half,  and 
added  to  the  above,  will  make  a  most  admirable  plum  pud- 
ding :  a  little  grated  lemon-peel  may  be  added. 

Obs. — If  the  water  ceases  to  boil,  the  pudding  will  become 
heavy,  and  be  spoiled;  if  properly  managed,  this  and  the 
following  will  be  as  fine  puddings  of  the  kind  as  art  can  pro- 
duce. 

Puddings  are  best  when  mixed  an  hour  or  two  before  they 
are  boiled ;  the  ingredients  by  that  means  amalgamate,  and 
the  whole  becomes  richer  and  fuller  of  flavour,  especially  if 
the  various  articles  be  thoroughly  well  stirred  together. 

A  table-spoonful  of  treacle  will  give  it  a  rich  brown  colour. 
See  pudding  sauce,  No.  269,  and  pudding  catchup,  No.  446. 

N.B.  This  pudding  may  be  baked  in  an  oven,  or  under 
meat,  the  same  as  Yorkshire  pudding  (No.  552) ;  make  it 
the  same,  only  add  half  a  pint  of  milk  more :  should  it  be 
above  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  thickness,  it  will  take  full  two 
hours :  it  requires  careful  watching,  for  if  the  top  gets  burned, 
an  empyreumatic  flavour  will  pervade  the  whole  of  the  pud- 
ding. Or,  butter  some  tin  mince-pie  patty-pans,  or  saucers, 
and  fill  them  with  pudding,  and  set  them  in  a  Dutch  oven ; 
they  will  take  about  an  hour. 

Maigre  Plum  Pudding. 

Simmer  half  a  pint  of  milk  with  two  blades  of  mace,  and 
a  roll  of  lemon-peel,  for  ten  minutes ;  then  strain  it  into  a. 
basin ;  set  it  away  to  get  cold :  in  the  mean  time  beat  three 
ejgs  in  a  basin  with  three  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  and  the  third 


PUDDINGS.  343 

of  a  nutmeg:  then  add  three  ounces  of  flour;  beat  it  well 
together,  and  add  the  milk  by  degrees:  then  put  in  three 
ounces  of  fresh  butter  broken  into  small  pieces,  and  three 
ounces  of  bread-crumbs ;  three  ounces  of  currants  washed 
and  picked  clean,  three  ounces  of  raisins  stoned  and  chopped : 
stir  it  all  well  together.  Butter  a  mould ;  put  it  in,  and  tie 
a  cloth  tight  over  it.  Boil  it  two  hours  and  a  half.  Serve 
it  up  with  melted  butter,  two  table- spoonfuls  of  brandy,  and 
a  little  loaf-sugar. 

A  Fat  Pudding. 

Break  five  eggs  in  a  basin ;  beat  them  up  with  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  sugar  and  a  table-spoonful  of  flour;  beat  it  quite 
smooth ;  then  put  to  it  a  pound  of  raisins,  and  a  pound  of 
suet ;  it  must  not  be  chopped  very  fine ;  butter  a  mould  well ; 
put  in  the  pudding ;  tie  a  cloth  over  it  tight,  and  boil  it  five 
hours. 

N.B.  This  is  very  rich,  and  is  commonly  called  a  marrow 
pudding. 

Pease  Pudding.— (No.  555.) 

Put  a  quart  of  split  pease  into  a  clean  cloth ;  do  not  tie 
them  up  too  close,  but  leave  a  little  room  for  them  to  swell ; 
put  them  on  in  cold  water,  to  boil  slowly  till  they  are  tender : 
if  they  are  good  pease  they  will  be  boiled  enough  in  about 
two  hours  and  a  half;  rub  them  through  a  sieve  into  a  deep 
dish,  adding*  to  them  an  egg  or  two,  an  ounce  of  butter,  and 
some  pepper  and  salt ;  beat  them  well  together  for  about  ten 
minutes,  when  these  ingredients  are  well  incorporated  to- 
gether ;  then  flour  the  cloth  well,  put  the  pudding  in,  and  tie 
it  up  as  tight  as  possible,  and  boil  it  an  hour  longer.  It  is 
as  good  with  boiled  beef  as  it  is  with  boiled  pork ;  and  why 
not  with  roasted  pork  ? 

Obs. — This  is  a  very  good  accompaniment  to  cold  pork  or 
cold  beef. 

N.B.  Stir  this  pudding  into  two  quarts  of  the  liquor  meat 
or  poultry  has  been  boiled  in ;  give  it  a  boil  up,  and  in  five 
minutes  it  will  make  excellent  extempore  pease  soup,  espe- 
cially if  the  pudding  has  been  boiled  in  the  same  pot  as  the 
meat  (see  No.  218,  &c.)  Season  it  with  pease  powder,  No. 
458. 

*  To  increase  the  bulk  and  diminish  the  expense  of  this  pudding,  the  economical 
housekeeper,  who  has  a  large  family  to  feed,  may  now  add  two  pounds  of  potatoes 
:hat  have  been  boiled  and  well  mashed.  To  many  this  mixture  is  more  agreeable 
than  pease  pudding  alone.  See  alao  No.  J07. 


344  PUDDINGS. 

< 

Plain  Bread  Pudding.— (No.  556.) 

Make  five  ounces  of  bread-crumbs ;  put  them  in  a  basin  j 
pour  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  over  them ;  put  a 
plate  over  the  top  to  keep  in  the  steam ;  let  it  stand  twenty 
minutes,  then  beat  it  up  quite  smooth  with  two  ounces  of 
sugar  and  a  salt-spoonful  of  nutmeg.  Break  four  eggs  on  a 
plate,  leaving  out  one  white ;  beat  them  well,  and  add  them 
to  the  pudding.  Stir  it  all  well  together,  and  put  it  in  a  mould 
that  has  been  well  buttered  and  floured ;  tie  a  cloth  over  it, 
and  boil  it  one  hour. 

Bread  and  butler  Pudding.— (No.  557.) 

You  must  have  a  dish  that  will  hold  a  quart :  wash  and 
pick  two  ounces  of  currants ;  strew  a  few  at  the  bottom  of 
the  dish ;  cut  about  four  layers  of  very  thin  bread  and  butter, 
and  between  each  layer  of  bread  and  butter  strew  some  cur- 
rants ;  then  break  four  eggs  in  a  basin,  leaving  out  one  white ; 
beat  them  well,  and  add  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  drachm 
of  nutmeg ;  stir  it  well  together  with  a  pint  of  new  milk ; 
pour  it  over  about  ten  minutes  before  you  put  it  in  the  oven ; 
it  will  take  three  quarters  of  an  hour  to  bake. 

Pancakes  and  Fritters.-— (No.  558.) 

Break  three  eggs  in  a  basin;  beat  them  up  with  a  little 
nutmeg  and  salt ;  then  put  to  them  four  ounces  and  a  half  of 
flour,  and  a  little  milk ;  beat  it  of  a  smooth  batter ;  then  add 
by  degrees  as  much  milk  as  will  make  it  of  the  thickness  of 
good  cream :  the  frying-pan  must  be  about  the  size  of  a  pud- 
ding plate,  and  very  clean,  or  they  will  stick ;  make  it  hot, 
and  to  each  pancake  put  in  a  bit  of  butter  about  as  big  as  a 
walnut :  when  it  is  melted,  pour  in  the  batter  to  cover  the 
bottom  of  the  pan ;  make  them  the  thickness  of  half  a  crown ; 
fry  them  of  a  light  brown  on  both  sides. 

The  above  will  do  for  apple  fritters,  by  adding  one  spoon- 
ful more  of  flour ;  peel  your  apples,  and  cut  them  in  thick 
slices ;  take  out  the  core,  dip  them  in  the  batter,  and  fry  them 
in  hot  lard ;  put  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain ;  dish  them  neatly, 
and  grate  some  loaf-sugar  over  them. 

Tansy  Pancakes. 

The  batter  for  the  preceding  may  be  made  into  tansy  pan- 
cakes by  cutting  fine  a  handful  of  young  green  tansy,  and 
beating  it  into  the  batter.  It  gives  the  cakes  a  pleasant  aro 
malic  flavour,  and  an  agreeable,  mild  bitter  taste.  A. 


PUDDINGS.  345 

No.  560. 

The  following  receipts  are  from  Mr.  Henry  Osborne,  cook 
to  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  the  late  president  of  the  Royal  Society : 

Soho  Square,  April  20,  1820. 

Sir, — I  send  you  herewith  the  last  part  of  the  Cook's  Ora- 
cle. I  have  attentively  looked  over  each  receipt,  and  hope 
they  are  now  correct,  and  easy  to  be  understood.  If  you 
think  any  need  further  explanation,  Sir  Joseph  has  desired 
me  to  wait  on  you  again.  I  also  send  the  receipts  for  my 
ten  puddings,  and  my  method  of  using  spring  fruit  and  gourds. 
I  am,  Sir, 

Your  humble  servant, 

HENRY  OSBORNE. 

Boston  Apple  Pudding. 

Peel  one  dozen  and  a  half  of  good  apples ;  take  out  the 
cores,  cut  them  small,  put  into  a  stew-pan  that  will  just  hold 
them,  with  a  little  water,  a  little  cinnamon,  two  cloves,  and 
the  peel  of  a  lemon ;  stew  over  a  slow  fire  till  quite  soft,  then 
sweeten  with  moist  sugar,  and  pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve ; 
add  to  it  the  yelks  of  four  eggs  and  one  white,  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  good  butter,  half  a  nutmeg,  the  peel  of  a  lemon 
grated,  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon :  beat  all  well  together ; 
line  the  inside  of  a  pie-dish  with  good  puff  paste ;  put  in  the 
pudding,  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

Spring  Fruit  Pudding. 

Peel,  and  well  wash  four  dozen  sticks  of  rhubarb :  put  into 
a  stew-pan  with  the  pudding  a  lemon,  a  little  cinnamon,  and 
as  much  moist  sugar  as  will  make  it  quite  sweet ;  set  it  over 
a  fire,  and  reduce  it  to  a  marmalade ;  pass  through  a  hair- 
sieve,  and  proceed  as  directed  for  the  Boston  pudding,  leaving 
out  the  lemon-juice,  as  the  rhubarb  will  be  found  sufficiently 
acid  of  itself. 

Nottingham  Pudding. 

Peel  six  good  apples ;  take  out  the  core  with  the  point  of  a 
small  knife,  or  an  apple  corer,  if  you  have  one ;  but  be  sure 
to  leave  the  apples  whole ;  fill  up  where  you  took  the  core 
from  with  sugar ;  place  them  in  a  pie-dish,  and  pour  over 
them  a  nice  light  batter,  prepared  as  for  batter  pudding,  and 
hake  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 


346  PUDDINGS. 

Batter  Pudding. 

Take  six  ounces  of  fine  flour,  a  little  salt,  and  three  eggs ; 
beat  up  well  with  a  little  milk,  added  by  degrees  till  the  bat- 
ter is  quite  smooth ;  make  it  the  thickness  of  cream ;  put 
into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  and  bake  three  quarters  of  an  hour ; 
or  into  a  buttered  and  floured  basin,  tied  over  tight  with  a 
cloth :  boil  one  and  a  half  hour,  or  two  hours. 

Newmarket  Pudding. 

Put  on  to  boil  a  pint  of  good  milk,  with  half  a  lemon-peel, 
a  little  cinnamon,  and  a  bay-leaf;  boil  gently  for  five  or  ten 
minutes ;  sweeten  with  loaf  sugar ;  break  the  yelks  of  five, 
and  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  into  a  basin ;  beat  them  well, 
and  add  the  milk :  beat  all  well  together,  and  strain  through 
a  fine  hair-sieve,  or  tamis  :  have  some  bread  and  butter  cut 
very  thin ;  lay  a  layer  of  it  in  a  pie-dish,  and  then  a  layer  of 
currants,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  is  nearly  full ;  then  pour  the 
custard  over  it,  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

Newcastle,  or  Cabinet  Pudding. 

Butter  a  half  melon  mould,  or  quart  basin,  and  stick  all 
round  with  dried  cherries,  or  fine  raisins,  and  fill  up  with 
bread  and  butter,  &c.  as  in  the  above ;  and  steam  it  an  hour 
and  a  half. 

Vermicelli  Pudding. 

Boil  a  pint  of  milk,  with  lemon-peel  and  cinnamon; 
sweeten  with  loaf-sugar ;  strain  through  a  sieve,  and  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  vermicelli ;  boil  ten  minutes ;  then  put 
in  the  yelks  of  five,  and  the  whites  of  three  eggs ;  mix  well 
together,  and  steam  it  one  hour  and  a  quarter :  the  same  may 
be  baked  half  an  hour. 

Bread  Pudding. 

Make  a  pint  of  bread-crumbs ;  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with 
as  much  milk  as  will  cover  them,  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  a  little 
nutmeg  grated,  and  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon ;  boil  about 
ten  minutes ;  sweeten  with  powdered  loaf-sugar ;  take  out 
the  cinnamon,  and  put  in  four  eggs ;  beat  all  well  together, 
and  bake  half  an  hour,  or  boil  rather  more  than  an  hour. 


MISCELLANEOUS.  347 

Custard  Pudding. 

Boil  a  pint  of  milk,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  good  cream ; 
thicken  with  flour  and  water  made  perfectly  smooth,  till  it  is 
stiff  enough  to  bear  an  egg  on  it ;  break  in  the  yelks  of  five 
eggs;  sweeten  with  powdered  loaf-sugar;  grate  in  a  little 
nutmeg  and  the  peel  of  a  lemon :  add  half  a  glass  of  good 
brandy ;  then  whip  the  whites  of  the  five  eggs  till  quite  stiff, 
and  mix  gently  all  together :  line  a  pie-dish  with  good  puff 
paste,  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

N.B.  Ground  rice,  potato  flour,  panada,  and  all  puddings 
made  from  powders,  are,  or  maybe,  prepared  in  the  same  way. 

Boiled  Custards. 

Put  a  quart  of  new  milk  into  a  stew-pan,  with  the  peel  of  a 
lemon  cut  very  thin,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  a  bay  or  laurel-leaf, 
and  a  small  stick  of  cinnamon ;  set  it  over  a  quick  fire,  but 
be  careful  it  does  not  boil  over :  when  it  boils,  set  it  beside 
the  fire,  and  simmer  ten  minutes ;  break  the  yelks  of  eight, 
and  the  whites  of  four  eggs  into  a  basin ;  beat  them  well ; 
then  pour  in  the  milk  a  little  at  a  time,  stirring  it  as  quick 
as  possible  to  prevent  the  eggs  curdling ;  set  it  on  the  fire 
again,  and  stir  it  well  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  let  it  have  just 
one  boil ;  pass  it  through  a  tamis,  or  fine  sieve  :  when  cold, 
add  a  little  brandy,  or  white  wine,  as  may  be  most  agreeable 
to  the  eater's  palate.  Serve  up  in  glasses,  or  cups. 

Custards  for  bakingare  prepared  as  above,  passed  through 
a  fine  sieve ;  put  them  into  cups ;  grate  a  little  nutmeg  over 
each:  bake  them  about  15  or  20  minutes. 

TO   DRESS    SPRING   FHUIT. 

Spring  Fruit  Soup. 

Peel  and  well  wash  four  dozen  sticks  of  rhubarb ;  blanch  it 
in  water  three  or  four  minutes ;  drain  it  on  a  sieve,  and  put 
it  into  a  stew-pan,  with  two  onions  sliced,  a  carrot,  an  ounce 
of  lean  ham,  and  a  good  bit  of  butter ;  let  it  stew  gently  over 
a  slow  fire  till  tender ;  then  put  in  two  quarts  of  good  con- 
sommt,  to  which  add  two  or  three  ounces  of  bread-crumbs ; 
boil  about  fifteen  minutes ;  skim  off  all  the  fat ;  season  with 
8 alt  and  Cayenne  pepper ;  pass  it  through  a  tamis,  and  serve 
up  with  fried  bread. 

Spring  Fruit  Pudding. 
Clean  as  above  three  or  four  dozen  sticks  of  rhubarb ;  put 


348  MISCELLANEOUS. 

it  in  a  stew-pan,  with  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  a  bit  of  cinnamon, 
two  cloves,  and  as  much  moist  sugar  as  will  sweeten  it ;  set 
it  over  a  fire,  and  reduce  it  to  a  marmalade ;  pass  it  through 
a  hair-sieve ;  then  add  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  and  half  a  nutmeg; 
grated,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  butter,  and  the  yelks  of 
four  eggs  and  one  white,  and  mix  all  well  together ;  line  a 
pie-dish,  that  will  just  contain  it,  with  good  puff  paste ;  pin 
the  mixture  in,  and  bake  it  half  an  hour. 

Spring  Fruit — A  Mock  Gooseberry  Sauce  for  Mackerel,  fyc. 

Make  a  marmalade  of  three  dozen  sticks  of  rhubarb,  sweet- 
ened with  moist  sugar;  pass  it  through  a  hair-sieve,  and 
serve  up  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Spring  Fruit  Tart. 

Prepare  rhubarb  as  above :  cut  it  into  small  pieces  into  a 
tart-dish ;  sweeten  with  loaf-sugar  pounded ;  cover  it  with  a 
good  short  crust  paste ;  sift  a  little  sugar  over  the  top,  and 
bake  half  an  hour  in  a  rather  hot  oven :  serve  up  cold. 

Spring  Cream,  or  mock  Gooseberry  Fool. 

Prepare  a  marmalade  as  directed  for  the  pudding :  to  which 
add  a  pint  of  good  thick  cream ;  serve  up  in  glasses,  or  in  a 
deep  dish.  If  wanted  in  a  shape,  dissolve  two  ounces  of 
isinglass  in  a  little  water;  strain  it  through  a  tamis,  and 
when  nearly  cold  put  it  to  the  cream;  pour  it  into  a  jelly 
mould,  and  when  set,  turn  out  into  a  dish,  and  serve  up  plain 

Spring  Fruit  Sherbet. 

Boil  six  or  eight  sticks  of  rhubarb  (quite  clean)  ten 
minutes  in  a  quart  of  water;  strain  the  liquor  through  a 
tamis  into  a  jug,  with  the  peel  of  a  lemon  cut  very  thin,  and 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  clarified  sugar ;  let  it  stand  five  or  six 
hours,  and  it  is  fit  to  drink. 

Gourds  (now  called  vegetable  Marrow)  stewed. 

Take  off  all  the  skin  of  six  or  eight  gourds,  put  them  into  a 
stew-pan,  with  water,  salt,  lemon-juice,  and  a  bit  of  butter, 
or  fat  bacon,  and  let  them  stew  gently  till  quite  tender,  and 
serve  up  with  a  rich  Dutch  sauce,  or  any  other  sauce  you 
please  that  is  piquante. 


MISCELLANEOUS.  349 

Gourd  Soup, 

Should  be  made  of  full-grown  gourds,  but  not  those  that 
have  hard  skins ;  slice  three  or  four,  and  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  two  or  three  onions,  and  a  good  bit  of  butter ;  set 
them  over  a  slow  fire  till  quite  tender  (be  careful  not  to  let 
them  burn) ;  then  add  two  ounces  of  crust  of  bread,  and  two 
quarts  of  good  consomm€;  season  with  salt  and  Cayenne 
pepper :  boil  ten  minutes,  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  skim  off  all 
the  fat,  and  pass  it  through  a  tamis ;  then  make  it  quite  hot, 
and  serve  up  with  fried  bread. 

Fried  Gourds. 

Cut  five  or  six  gourds  in  quarters ;  take  off  the  skin  and 
pulp ;  stew  them  in  the  same  manner  as  for  table :  when 
done,  drain  them  quite  dry;  beat  up  an  egg,  and  dip  the 
gourds  hi  it,  and  cover  them  well  over  with  bread-crumbs ; 
make  some  hog's-lard  hot,  and  fry  them  a  nice  light  colour ; 
throw  a  little  salt  and  pepper  over  them,  and  serve  up 
quite  dry. 

Another  Way. 

Take  six  or  eight  small  gourds,  as  near  of  a  size  as  pos- 
sible ;  slice  them  with  a  cucumber-slice ;  dry  them  in  a  cloth, 
and  then  fry  them  in  very  hot  lard ;  throw  over  a  little  pep- 
per and  salt,  and  serve  up  on  a  napkin.  Great  attention  is? 
requisite  to  do  these  well;  if  the  fat  is  quite  hot  they  are  done 
in  a  minute,  and  will  soon  spoil ;  if  not  hot  enough,  they  will 
eat  greasy  and  tough. 

To  make  Beef,  Mutton,  or  Veal  Tea.— -(No.  563.) 

Cut  a  pound  of  lean  gravy  meat  into  thin  slices ;  put  it  into 
a  quart  and  half  a  pint  of  cold  water ;  set  it  over  a  very  gentle 
fire,  where  it  will  become  gradually  warm ;  when  the  scum 
rises,  let  it  continue  simmering  gently  for  about  an  hour ; 
then  strain  it  through  a  fine  sieve  or  a  napkin ;  let  it  stand  ten 
minutes  to  settle,  and  then  pour  off  the  clear  tea. 

N.B.  An  onion,  and  a  few  grains  of  black  pepper,  are 
sometimes  added. 

If  the  meat  is  boiled  till  it  is  thoroughly  tender,  you  may 
mince  it  and  pound  it  as  directed  in  No.  503,  and  make  potted 
beef. 

To  make  half  a  pint  of  beef  tea  in  five  minutes  for  three 
halfpence,  see  No.  252. 

Gg" 


350  MISCELLANEOUS. 

Mutton  Broth  for  the  Sick.— (No.  564.) 

Have  a  pound  and  a  half  of  a  neck  or  loin  of  mutton ;  take 
off  the  skin  and  the  fat,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan ;  cover  it 
with  cold  water,  (it  will  take  about  a  quart  to  a  pound  of 
meat,)  let  it  simmer  very  gently,  and  skim  it  well ;  cover  it 
up,  and  set  it  over  a  moderate  fire,  where  it  may  stand  gently 
stewing  for  about  an  hour ;  then  strain  it  off.  It  should  be 
allowed  to  become  cold,  when  all  the  greasy  particles  will 
float  on  the  surface,  and  becoming  hard,  can  be  easily  taken 
off,  and  the  settlings  will  remain  at  the  bottom. 

See  also  Nos.  490  and  252. 

N.B.  We  direct  the  meat  to  be  done  no  more  than  just 
sufficiently  to  be  eaten ;  so  a  sick  man  may  have  plenty  of 
good  broth  for  nothing ;  as  by  this  manner  of  producing  it, 
the  meat  furnishes  also  a  good  family  meal. 

Obs. — This  is  an  inoffensive  nourishment  for  sick  persons, 
and  the  only  mutton  broth  that  should  be  given  to  convales- 
cents, whose  constitutions  require  replenishing  with  restora- 
tive aliment  of  easy  digestion.  The  common  way  of  making 
it  with  roots,  onions,  sweet  herbs,  &c.  &c.  is  too  strong  for 
weak  stomachs.  Plain  broth  will  agree  with  a  delicate  sto- 
mach, when  the  least  addition  of  other  ingredients  would 
immediately  offend  it. 

For  the  various  ways  of  flavouring  broth,  see  No.  527. 

Few  know  how  much  good  may  be  done  by  such  broth, 
taken  in  sufficient  quantity  at  the  beginning  and  decline  of 
bowel  complaints  and  fevers ;  half  a  pint  taken  at  a  time. 
See  the  last  two  pages  of  the  7th  chapter  of  the  Rudiments 
of  Cookery. 

Barley  Water.*— (No.  565.) 

Take  a  couple  of  ounces  of  pearl  barley,  wash  it  clean  with 
cold  water,  put  it  into  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
boil  for  five  minutes ;  pour  off  this  water,  and  add  to  it  two 
quarts  of  boiling  water :  boil  it  to  two  pints,  and  strain  it. 

The  above  is  simple  barley  water.  To  a  quart  of  this  it? 
frequently  added 

Two  ounces  of  figs,  sliced ; 

The  same  of  raisins,  stoned ; 

Half  an  ounce  of  liquorice,  sliced  and  bruised ; 

And  a  pint  of  water. 

Boil  it  till  it  is  reduced  to  a  quart,  and  strain. 

Obs. — These  drinks  are  intended  to  assuage  thirst  in  ardent 

*  Ground  barley,  or  barley-meal,  is  sold  in  this  city ;  with  which  barley-wate? 
gruel  or  a  panada  may  be  readily  made,  for  the  sick,  or  for  soups,  A. 


MISCELLANEOUS.  351 

fevers  and  inflammatory  disorders,  for  which  plenty  of  mild 
diluting1  liquor  is  one  of  the  principal  remedies :  and  if  not 
suggested  by  the  medical  attendant,  is  frequently  demanded 
by  honest  instinct,  in  terms  too  plain  to  be  misunderstood : 
the  stomach  sympathizes  with  every  fibre  of  the  human 
frame,  and  no  part  of  it  can  be  distressed  without  in  some 
degree  offending  the  stomach :  therefore  it  is  of  the  utmost 
importance  to  sooth  this  grand  organ,  by  rendering  every 
thing  we  offer  to  it  as  elegant  and  agreeable  as  the  nature 
of  the  case  will  admit  of:  the  barley  drink  prepared  accord- 
ing to  the  second  receipt,  will  be  received  with  pleasure  by 
the  most  delicate  palate. 

Whey.— (No.  566.) 

Make  a  pint  of  milk  boil ;  put  to  it  a  glass  or  two  of  white 
wine ;  put  it  on  the  fire  till  it  just  boils  again ;  then  set  it  on 
one  side  till  the  curd  has  settled ;  pour  off  the  clear  whey, 
and  sweeten  it  as  you  like. 

Cider  is  often  substituted  for  wine,  or  half  the  quantity  of 
vinegar  that  we  have  ordered  wine. 

Obs. — When  there  is  no  fire  in  the  sick  room,  this  may  be 
put  hot  into  a  bottle,  and  laid  between  the  bed  and  mattress ; 
it  will  keep  warm  several  hours. 

Toothache  and  anti-rheumatic  Etnbrocation.—(No.  567.) 

In  no  branch  of  the  practice  of  physic  is  there  more  dan- 
gerous quackery,  than  in  the  dental  department. 

To  all  people  the  toothache  is  an  intolerable  torment ;  not 
even  a  philosopher  can  endure  it  patiently ;  what  an  over- 
coming agony  then  must  it  be  to  a  grand  gourmand !  besides 
the  mortification  of  being  deprived  of  the  means  of  enjoying- 
that  consolation  which  he  looks  to  as  the  grand  solace  for  all 
sublunary  cares. 

When  this  affliction  befalls  him,  we  recommend  the  follow- 
ing specific  for  it ; — 

#  Sal  volatile,  three  parts. 
Laudanum,  one  part. 

Mix,  and  rub  the  part  affected  frequently,  or  if  the  tooth 
which  aches  be  hollow,  drop  some  of  this  on  a  bit  of  cotton, 
and  put  it  into  the  tooth.  For  a  general  faceache,  or  sore 
throat,  moisten  a  bit  of  flannel  with  it,  and  put  it  at  night  to 
the  part  affected.  ^ 

' 


352  MISCELLANEOUS. 

Stomachic  Tincture— (No.  569.)— is 

Peruvian  bark,  bruised,  one  ounce  and  a  half. 

Orange-peel,       do.       one  ounce. 

Brandy,  or  proof  spirit,  one  pint. 

Let  these  ingredients  steep  for  ten  days,  shaking  the  bottle 
every  day ;  let  it  remain  quiet  two  days,  and  then  decant  the 
clear  liquor. 

Dose— a  tea-spoonful  in  a  wineglass  of  water,  twice  a  day, 
when  you  feel  languid,  i.  e.  when  the  stomach  is  empty, 
about  an  hour  before  dinner,  and  in  the  evening. 

This  agreeable  aromatic  tonic  is  an  effective  help  to  con- 
coction ;  and  we  are  under  personal  obligations  to  it,  for  fre- 
quently restoring  our  stomach  to  good  temper,  and  procuring 
us  good  appetite  and  good  digestion. 

In  low  nervous  affections  arising  from  a  languid  circula- 
tion, and  when  the  stomach  is  in  a  state  of  debility  from 
age,  intemperance,  or  other  causes,  this  is  a  most  acceptable 
restorative. 

N.B.  Tea  made  with  dried  and  bruised  Seville  orange-peel, 
in  the  same  way  as  common  tea,  and  drank  with  milk  and 
sugar,  has  been  taken  by  nervous  and  dyspeptic  persons  with 
great  benefit. 

Sucking  a  bit  of  dried  orange-peel  about  an  hour  before- 
dinner,  when  the  stomach  is  empty,  is  very  grateful  and 
strengthening  to  it. 

Paregoric  Elixir. — (No.  570.) 

A  drachm  of  purified  opium,  same  of  flowers  of  benjamin, 
same  of  oil  of  aniseed,  camphor,  two  scruples ;  steep  all  in  a 
pint  of  brandy  or  proof  spirit ;  let  it  stand  ten  days,  occasion- 
ally shaking  it  up :  strain. 

A  tea-spoonful  in  half  a  pint  of  White  wine  whey  (No. 
562),  tewahdiddle  (No.  467),  or  gruel  (No.  572),  taken  the 
last  thing  at  night,  is  an  agreeable  and  effectual  medicine  for 
coughs  and  colds.  It  is  also  excellent  for  children  who  have 
the  hooping-cough,  in  doses  of  from  five  to  twenty  drops  in 
a  little  water,  or  on  a  little  bit  of  sugar. 

Dr.  Kitchiner's  Receipt  to  make  Gruel. — (No.  572.) 

Ask  those  who  are  to  eat  it,  if  they  like  it  thick  or  thin ;  if 
the  latter,  mix  well  together  by  degrees,  in  a  pint  basin,  one 
table-spoonful  of  oatmeal,  with  three  of  cold  water;  if  the 
former,  use  two  spoonfuls. 

Have  ready  in  a  stew-pan,  a  pint  of  boiling  water  or  milk; 


MISCELLANEOUS.  353 

pour  this  by  degrees  to  the  oatmeal  you  have  mixed ;  return 
it  into  the  stew-pan ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  for  five 
minutes ;  stirring  it  all  the  time  to  prevent  the  oatmeal  from 
burning  at  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan ;  skim  and  strain  it 
through  a  hair-sieve. 

2d.  To  convert  this  into  caudle,  add  a  little  ale,  wine,  or 
brandy,  with  sugar ;  and  if  the  bowels  are  disordered,  a  little 
nutmeg  or  ginger,  grated. 

Obs.  Gruel  may  be  made  with  broth  (No.  490,  or  No.  252, 
or  No.  564),  instead  of  water ;  (to  make  crowdie,  see  No. 
205*) ;  and  may  be  flavoured  with  sweet  herbs,  soup  roots, 
and  savoury  spices,  by  boiling  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  the 
water  you  are  going  to  make  the  gruel  with ;  or  zest  (No. 
255),  pease  powder  (No.  458),  or  dried  mint,  mushroom 
catchup  (No.  409) ;  or  a  few  grains  of  curry  powder  (No. 
155) ;  or  savoury  ragout  powder  (No.  457) ;  or  Cayenne  (No. 
404) ;  or  celery-seed  bruised,  or  soup  herb  powder  (No.  459) ; 
or  an  onion  minced  very  fine  and  bruised  in  with  the  oat- 
meal ;  or  a  little  eschalot  wine  (No.  402) ;  or  essence  of 
celery  (Nos.  409,  413.  417,  or  No.  420),  &c. 

Plain  gruel,  such  as  is  directed  in  the  first  part  of  this 
receipt,  is  one  of  the  best  breakfasts  and  suppers  that  we  can 
recommend  to  the  rational  epicure ;  is  the  most  comforting 
soother  of  an  irritable  stomach  that  we  know ;  and  particu- 
larly acceptable  to  it  after  a  hard  day's  work  of  intemperate 
feasting :  when  the  addition  of  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a 
tea-spoonful  of  Epsom  salt,  will  give  it  an  aperient  quality, 
which  will  assist  the  principal  viscera  to  get  rid  of  their 
burden. 

"  Water  gruel,"  says  Tryon  in  his  Obs.  on  Health,  16mo. 
1688,  p.  42,  is  "  the  king  of  spoon  meats,"  and  "the  queen  of 
soups,"  and  gratifies  nature  beyond  all  others.  i 

In  the  "Art  of  Thriving,"  1697,  p.  8,  are  directions  for  pre- 
paring fourscore  noble  and  wholesome  dishes,  upon  most  of 
which  a  man  may  live  excellently  well  for  two-pence  a  day ; 
the  author's  Obs.  on  water  gruel  is,  that  "  essence  of  oatmeal 
makes  a  noble  and  exhilarating  meal !" 

Dr.  Franklin's  favourite  breakfast  was  a  good  basin  of 
warm  gruel,  in  which  there  was  a  small  slice  of  butter,  with 
toasted  bread  and  nutmeg ;  the  expense  of  this  he  reckoned 
at  three  halfpence. 

Scotch  Burgoo.— (No.  572*.) 

"  This  humble  dish  of  our  northern  brethren  forms  no  con- 
temptible article  of  food.  It  possesses  the  grand  qualities  of 


354  MISCELLANEOUS. 

salubrity,  pleasantness,  and  cheapness.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  sort 
of  oatmeal  hasty  pudding  without  milk ;  much  used  by  those 
patterns  of  combined  industry,  frugality,  and  temperance,  the 
Scottish  peasantry;  and  this,  among-  other  examples  of  the 
economical  Scotch,  is  well  worthy  of  being  occasionally 
adopted  by  all  who  have  large  families  and  small  incomes." 

It  is  made  in  the  following  easy  and  expeditious  man- 
ner:— 

"  To  a  quart  of  oatmeal  add  gradually  two  quarts  of  water, 
so  that  the  whole  may  smoothly  mix :  then  stirring  it  con- 
tinually over  the  fire,  boil  it  together  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour; 
after  which,  take  it  up,  and  stir  in  a  little  salt  and  butter,  with 
or  without  pepper.  This  quantity  will  serve  a  family  of  five 
or  six  persons  for  a  moderate  meal."— Oddy's  Family  Re- 
ceipt Book,  p.  204. 

Anchovy  Toast.— (No.  573.) 

Bone  and  wash  the  anchovies,  pound  them  in  a  mortar 
with  a  little  fresh  butter;  rub  them  through  a  sieve,  and 
spread  them  on  a  toast,  see  Nos.  434  and  435,  and  No.  355. 

Obs.  You  may  add,  while  pounding  the  anchovies,  a  little 
made  mustard  and  curry  powder  (No.  455)  or  a  few  grains 
of  Cayenne,  or  a  little  mace  or  other  spice.  It  may  be  made 
still  more  savoury,  by  frying  the  toast  in  clarified  butter. 

Deviled  Biscuit,— (No.  574.) 

Is  the  above  composition  spread  on  a  biscuit  warmed 
before  the  fire  in  a  Dutch  oven,  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
salt  and  savoury  spice  (No.  457),  zest  (No.  255),  curry  pow- 
der (No.  455),  or  Cayenne  pepper  sprinkled  over  it. 

Obs.  This  nc  plus  ultra  of  high  spiced  relishes,  and  No. 
538,  frequently  make  their  appearance  at  tavern  dinners, 
when  the  votaries  of  Bacchus  are  determined  to  vie  with  each 
other  in  sacrificing  to  the  jolly  god. 


MARKETING  TABLES, 

Showing  the  seasons  when  MEAT,  POULTRY,  and  VEGETABLES, 
are  BEST  and  CHEAPEST. 


MEAT. 


3§ 
^s 

~ll 

l> 

Vs* 

*£i 
•r^ 

R 

BEEF. 

THE  HIND  aUARTER. 

lb.  01. 
13  0 

20  0 
11  0 
13  12 

11  0 
14  4 

8  4 
9  0 

lb.  oz. 
1  8 

4  0 
1  4 
1  8 

1  8 
1  12 

0      10 
2       4 

perlb. 

Roasted  (No.  19). 
J  Steak  to  Broil  (No.  94),  to 
\     Stew  (Nos.  500  and  501). 
Boiled  (No.  8). 
5  Ditto  (No.  7),  or  Savoury 
i     Salted  Beef  (No.  496). 
For  Alaraode  Beef  (No.  502). 
Generally  Baked  or  Salted. 
Salted 

2.  Rump*  •••.......0    9 

3   Edge-Bone  0    6 

4.  Buttock,  or  Round  0    7 
5   Mouse  ditto    •       06 

7   Thick  Flank          0    6 

8  Thin  ditto              0    6A 

Ditto 

9  Lee  ...             ,  .  .  0    2A 

J  Soup  of  (No.  193),  Stewed 
\      (No.  493) 

QUARTER. 

J  Roasted    (No.  20),  Boned 
i  and  Rolled  (No.  21). 
Ditto. 
For  making  Gravy. 

For  Steaks  or  Soup. 

(  For  Stewing  (No.  494),  or 
<     Haricot    (No.  495),—  or 
f     Salted. 
(  Principally  used  for  Beef 
(     Sausages. 

Ditto,  or  making  Soup. 
C  Excellent   Scotch    Barley 
<     Broth    (No.  204),    and 
f     Stewed  (No.  493). 
5  Soup  of  (No.  239),  Stewed, 
>      (No.  507);  and 
Do.  (No.  240),  do.  (No.  508.) 
I  Boiled  (No.  18*),  Jelly  of 
t   (No.  198\  Soup  (No  240*). 

THE  FORE 

perlb. 
10.  Fore  Rib,  6  Ribs.  .  0    9 

11.  Middle  do.,  3  do...  0    7 
12.  Chuck  do.,  3  do...  0    5 
13.  Shoulder,  or  Leg  \n    R 
of  Mutton  Piece  J  u 

14.  Brisket  0    6 

16.  Neck,  or  Sticking  )  n    «, 
Piece      .        .  1        - 

17  shin  0    2| 

The  Tail  

The  Heels 

The  Nos.  refer  to  the  receipts  for  dressing, 


356 


MARKETING   TABLES, 


MEAT. 


I'l 

*** 

III 

fit**"* 

I 

II, 

P 

MUT 

rib. 

TON. 

t  Boiled  (No.  1),  or  Roasted 
)      (No.  24). 
)  Do.  (No.  1,)  Roasted  (No. 
f     28),  Chops. 
SDo.  (No.  2,)  Roasted  (No. 
29),  Irish  Stew  (No.  488), 
Haricot  (No.  489),  Stew- 
ed (No.  490). 
To  make  Broth  (No.  194). 
Roasted  (No.  27). 
Grilled  (Obs.  to  No.  38). 
Broth. 

i  Roasted  (No.  31),  Venisoni- 
\     fled  (No.  32). 

AX. 

Roasted  (No.  35). 
Do           do. 

i  Roasted  (No.  34),  to  make 
<   Veal  Olives  (No.  518), 
(   Scotch  Collops  (No.  517*). 
(  To  Ragout  (No.  522),  to 
<   Stew  (No.  523),  Soup  of 
(    (No.  193). 
Roasted  (No.  37). 
Do.          do. 

Roasted. 
i  Stewed  (No.  515)  ;  to  Ra- 
<   gout  (No.  517),  to  Curry 
I    (No.  497). 
I  Stewed  (No.  515)  ;  to  Ra- 
}    gout  (No.  5  17). 
Same  as  Hind  Knuckle. 
5  Boiled,  plain  (No.  JO),  to 
)    Hash  (Nos.  10  and  520). 

J  Fried  (No.  90),  Broiled. 

\    (No.  521). 

lb.  02. 
8  0 

6  0 
8  4 

9  0 
5  0 

lb.  oz. 
0  13 

0  8 
1  0 

1  0 

0  10 

8 
4.  Neck,  best  end  0    7 

6  Shoulder                    0    7 

7   Breast  0    5 

Head  

The  Chine,  or  the  1 
Saddle,  two  Loins, 
The  Haunch  is  a  ^  0    8 
Leg,  and  part  of  [ 
the  Loin  j 

VE 

perlb. 
1.  Loin,  best  end  0  11 
2.  Do.,  chump  end.  .  .  0  11 

3.  Fillet  1    1 

4.  Knuckle,  Hind...      0    7 
The  whole  Leg..      0  10£ 

5.  Neck,  best  end...      Oil 
6.  Do.,  scrag  end...      0    8 
The  whole  Neck      0    9£ 
7  Blade  Bone  0  10 

8.  Breast,  best  end...  0  11 

9.  Do.,  brisket  end..  .  0  10 

0.  Knuckle,  Fore  0    7 
The  head,  with  the  skin 

MARKETING    TABLES. 


357 


In  the  foregoing  table,  we  have  given  the  proportions  of  bone  to  meat,— the  former 
not  being  weighed  till  cooked,  by  which,  of  course,  its  weight  was  considerably 
diminished. 

These  proportions  differ  in  almost  every  animal,— and  from  the  different  manner 
in  which  they  are  cut 

Those  who  pay  the  highest,  do  not  always  pay  the  dearest  price.  In  fact,  the 
best  meat  is  the  cheapest;  and  those  who  treat  a  tradesman  liberally,  have  a  much 
better  chance  of  being  well  served,  than  those  who  are  for  ever  bargaining  for  the 
market  penny.  In  dividing  the  joints,  there  is  always  an  opportunity  of  apportion- 
ing the  bones,  fat,  flaps,  &c.,  so  as  to  make  up  a  variation  of  much  more  than  a 


penny  per  pound  in  most  pieces ;  and  a  butcher  will  be  happy  to  give  the  turn  of  bis 
knife  in  favour  of  that  customer  who  cheerfully  pays  the  fair  price  of  the  article  he 
purchases : — have  those  who  are  unwilling  to  do  so  any  reason  to  complain  ? — have 
i  hey  not  invited  such  conduct  1 

The  quality  of  butcher's  meat,  varies  quite  as  much  as  the  price  of  it,  according 
to  its  age,  how  it  has  been  fed,  and  especially  how  it  has  been  treated  the  week 
before  it  has  been  killed. 

The  following  statements  were  sent  to  us  by  a  very  respectable  tradesman  :— 

Beef  is  best  and  cheapest  from  Michaelmas  to  Midsummer.  The  price,  per  pound, 
now  varies  from  4<f.  to  Is. 

Veal  is  best  from  March  to  July.  The  price  varies  according  to  the  season  and 
the  supply ;  and  the  quality  differs  so  much,  that  the  same  joints  now  sell  from  5ei. 
to  lid.  per  pound. 

Mutton  is  btst.  from  Christmas  to  Midsummer ;  the  difference  in  price  between  the 
worst  and  the  best,  is  now  from  5d.  to  9rf.  per  pound. 

Grass  lamb  is  bent  from  Easter  to  June;  house  lamb  from  Christmas  to  June. 


POULTRY. 


Poultry. 

Come  into  Season. 

Continue. 

Cheapest. 

Chickens  

<  Spring  chickens... 

To  be  had  all  the  ) 

Poulards,  with  eggs 

\     April  
March  

year  J 
Till  June  

Fowls  

<  Dearest  in  April, 
\     May,  and  June. 

Largest  at  Christmas 

To  be  had  all  the  > 
year  ( 

Ditto  .  . 

November. 
)  October  and 

Green  Geese  
Geese  

March  
September  

Till  September  
February  

\  November, 
do. 
do 

Turkey  poults  
Turkeys  
Ducklings  
Ducks  

Wild  ducks 

April  
September  
March  
June  

September  

June  
March  
May  
February  

Till  ditto 

do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
(  December  ; 
1  but  the  flights 

Widgeons  

)  are  uncer- 
(tain. 

Teal              .      .  . 

Plovers  
Larks  

Till  March 

Ditto. 

Wheatears  

Wild  pigeons.. 

JUly  

March  

And  during  August.. 
Till  September  

August. 

Tame     do  

358 


MARKETING   TABLES. 


Poultry. 

Come  into  Season. 

Continue. 

Cheapest. 

Tame  rabbits  

All  the  year. 

\Viid      do  

,          

e  

All  the  year  

Leverets  
Hares  

March  

Till  September.../. 

Partridges  •  •     «  «  .  • 

J)O                     

Pheasants  ......  . 

AUgU 

Till  March   

Wooodcock  snipes- 

Cocks'  combs,  fat  livers,  eggs,  &c.  are  dearest  in  April  and  May,  and  cheapest  in 

Fowls'  heads  may  be  had  three  for  a  penny;  a  dozen  will  make  a  very  good  pis 
Or  soup,  like  No.  244. 

Turkey  heads,  about  a  penny  each. 

Duck  giblets,  about  three  half-pence  a  set;  four  sets  will  make  a  tureen  of  good 
soup  for  sixpence.  See  No.  244. 

Obs.— Poultry  is  in  greatest  perfection  when  in  greatest  plenty. 

The  price  of  it  varies  as  much  as  the  size  and  quality  of  it,  and  the  supply  at 
market,  and  the  demand  for  it. 

It  is  generally  dearest  from  March  to  July,  when  the  town  is  fullest ;  and  cheapest 
about  September,  when  the  game  season  commences,  and  the  weather  being  colder, 
allows  of  its  being  brought  from  more  distant  parts,  and  the  town  becoming  thin, 
ihere  is  less  demand  for  it. 

The  above  information  will,  we  trust,  be  very  acceptable  to  economical  families, 
who,  from  hearing  the  very  high  price  poultry  sometimes  costs,  are  deterred  from 
ever  inquiring  about  it.  In  the  cheap  seasons,  we  have  noted,  it  is  sometimes  as 
cheap  as  butcher's  meat. 


VEGETABLES. 


The  public  are  frequently,  from  want  of  regular  information  when  the  proper 
seasons  arrive  for  vegetables,  put  to  much  inconvenience  in  attending  the  markets, 
making  unnecessary  inquiries,  &c. 

The  following  list,  it  is  presumed,  will  afford  much  useful  information  to  the 
reader : — 


Names  of  Vegetables. 

Earliest  lime 
for  forced. 

Earliest 
natural  growth. 

When 
cheapest. 

September. 

Ditto  Jerusalem  (No.  117).  . 

Nov.  Dec.  & 

Angelica  stalks,  for  pre-  J 

j 

Middle  of  May,  and? 

foil,  months. 
June. 

Asparagus  (No.  123)  

Beans,  French,  or  Kidneys. 
Scarlet  ditto  

\  Begin,  of 
t      Jan  
J  Early  in 
1      Feb  

Mid.  of  April,  May,] 
June,  and  July...  \ 
End  of  June,  or  be-  ) 
ginning  of  July..  $ 
July  

June  and 
July. 

August. 
September. 

MARKETING  TABLES. 


359 


Names  of  Vegetables. 

Earliest  time 
forforced. 

Earliest 
natural  growth. 

When 
cheapest. 

Windsor  beans,  long  pods  ) 

July  &  Aug. 
Dec.  &  Jan. 

Dec.  &  Jan. 

Feb.  &  Mar 
July. 
August. 
October. 

December. 

August. 
July  &  Aug. 
November. 
June. 

May. 
Aug.  &  Sep. 
Sep.  &  Oct. 
Sep.  &  two 
fol.  months. 
Novem.  am 
December. 
June,    July, 
and  Aug. 
October  and 
November. 
February  & 
March. 

July. 

August,  and 
fol.  month 
June, 
May  &  June. 

June. 
June. 

September. 

May  &  June. 
August. 

May! 
November. 
June  &  July. 
June  &  July. 

November. 

June  &  July. 

April  and 
May. 
June  and 

July. 

Beet  red  (No  127)  

July  

Borcole,  or  Scotch  Gale,  ) 

November  

Broccoli  (No  126)  

Cabbage  (No  118) 

July  and  August.  .  .  . 
October  

..I 

Nov.  and  three  fol- 
lowing months  — 
May  

1 

Cauliflowers  (No  125) 

Beginning  of  June... 
Ditto  September  
April  

Celery  (No.  289)  
Chervil  



May  

Chervil  (No.  264)  

J 

March,  and  through 

Cucumbers  (No  135)  

March  .... 

Beginning  of  July.  .  . 
June,    and    through 

Endive  

Bschalots,  for  keeping     ) 
(No  40°)                         i 

| 

the  year  
August,  and  through 

Leeks  

,..] 

September,   and   six 

( 

April  

Onions,  for  keeping  

.1 

Aug.  Sep.  and   fol- 
lowing months  
Feb.  and  through  the 

Parsley  (No.  261)  

1 

Parsnips  (No.  128)  
Pease  (No.  134)  

( 

Beg.  or  mid.  > 
of  May.  .  \ 

March  j 

Begin,    of  ) 
March...  .  $ 

October,  and  conti- 
nue until  May  
June,  July,  and  fol- 
lowing months  
May,  and  through  the 

Potatoes  (No.  102,  &c.)  .... 
Radishes     

End  of  March,  and 
following  months.  . 
Ditto  

Ditto,    turnip,    red    and  > 

white  5 

•••! 

August,  and  follow- 

( 

Salsify  

July,  August  

Dec.  &  Jan.. 

September,  and  fol- 
lowing months  
All  the  year  
March,  April,  and  fol- 
lowing months  
Oct.  Nov.  and  follow- 

\ 

\ 


( 

May,  June,  and  fol- 
lowing months  
March,    April,    and 

' 

May  
April  and  May  
February  

Ditto'  Welch  

APPENDIX; 

COMPRISING 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING 

PASTRY,   PRESERVES,   BREAD,    PUDDINGS, 
PICKLES,  &c.  &c. 


P^  Paste.— (No.  1.) 

To  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  sifted  flour  rub  gently  in  with 
the  hand  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter;  mix  up  with  half  a  pint 
of  spring  water ;  knead  it  well,  and  set  it  by  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour;  then  roll  it  out  thin,  lay  on  it,  in  small  pieces,  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  more  of  butter,  throw  on  it  a  little  flour, 
double  it  up  in  folds,  and  roll  it  out  thin  three  times,  and  set 
it  by  for  an  hour  in  a  cold*place. 

Paste  for  Meat  or  Savoury  Pies,— (No.  2.) 

Sift  two  pounds  of  fine  flour  to  one  and  a  half  of  good  salt 
butter,  break  it  into  small  pieces,  and  wash  it  well  in  cold 
water;  rub  gently  together  the  butter  and  flour,  and  mix  it  up 
with  the  yelk  of  three  eggs,  beat  together  with  a  spoon;  and 
nearly  a  pint  of  spring-water ;  roll  it  out,  and  double  it  in 
folds  three  times,  and  it  is  ready. 

Tart  Paste  for  Family  Pies.— (No.  3.) 

Rub  in  with  the  hand  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  one  pound 
and  a  quarter  of  flour,  mix  it  with  half  a  pint  of  water,  and 
knead  it  well. 

Sweet,  or  short  and  crisped  Tart  Paste. — (No.  4.) 

To  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  fine  flour  add  ten  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  the  yelks  of  two  eggs  beat,  and  three  ounces  of 
sifted  loaf  sugar ;  mix  up  together  with  half  a  pint  of  new 
milk,  and  knead  it  well.  See  No.  3p. 

N.B.  This  crust  is  frequently  iced. 


PASTRY,  &C.  36) 

Raised  Pies.— (No.  5.) 

Put  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  flour  on  the  pasteboard ;  and 
put  on  the  fire,  in  a  saucepan,  three  quarters  of  a  pint  oi 
water,  and  half  a  pound  of  good  lard ;  when  the  water  boils, 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  flour,  pour  in  the  water  and 
lard  by  degrees,  gently  mixing  the  flour  with  it  with  a  spoon ; 
and  when  it  is  well  mixed,  then  knead  it  with  your  hands  till 
it  becomes  stiff:  dredge  a  little  flour  to  prevent  its  sticking  to 
the  board,  or  you  cannot  make  it  look  smooth :  do  not  roll  it 
with  the  rolling-pin,  but  roll  it  with  your  hands,  about  the 
thickness  of  a  quart  pot ;  cut  it  into  six  pieces,  leaving  a  little 
for  the  covers;  put  one  hand  in  the  middle,  and  keep  the 
other  close  on  the  outside  till  you  have  worked  it  either  in  an 
oval  or  a  round  shape :  have  your  meat  ready  cut,  and  sea- 
soned with  pepper  and  salt :  if  pork,  cut  in  small  slices ;  the 
griskin  is  the  best  for  pasties :  if  you  use  mutton,  cut  it  in 
very  neat  cutlets,  and  put  them  in  the  pies  as  you  make  them ; 
roll  out  the  covers  with  the  rolling-pin  just  the  size  of  the  pie, 
wet  it  round  the  edge,  put  it  on  the  pie,  and  press  it  together 
with  your  thumb  and  finger,  and  then  cut  it  all  round  with  a 
pair  of  scissors  quite  even,  and  pinch  them  inside  and  out, 
and  bake  them  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Paste  for  boiled  Puddings.— (No.  6.) 

Pick  and  chop  very  fine  half  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  add  to  it 
one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour,  and  a  little  salt :  mix  it  with 
half  a  pint  of  milk  or  water,  and  beat  it  well  with  the  rolling- 
pin,  to  incorporate  the  suet  with  the  flour. 

Paste  for  stringing  Tartlets,  £c.— (No.  7.) 

Mix  with  your  hands  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  an 
ounce  of  fresh  butter,  and  a  little  cold  water;  rub  it  well 
between  the  board  and  your  hand  till  it  begins  to  string ;  cut 
it  into  small  pieces,  roll  it  out,  and  draw  it  into  fine  strings, 
lay  them  across  your  tartlets  in  any  device  you  please,  and 
bake  them  immediately. 

Paste  for  Croquants  or  Cut  Pastry— (No.  8.) 

To  half  a  pound  of  fine  flour  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
sifted  loaf  sugar;  mix  it  well  together  with  yelks  of  eggs  till 
of  a  good  stiffness. 

I  i 


362  PASTRY,  &C. 

Venison  Pasty.— (No.  9.) 

Take  a  neck,  shoulder,  or  breast  of  venison,  that  has  not 
hung  too  long;  bone  them,  trim  off  all  the  skin,  and  cut  it  into 
pieces  two  inches  square,  and  put  them  into  a  stew-pan,  with 
three  gills  of  Port  wine,  two  onions,  or  a  few  eschalots 
sliced;  some  pepper,  salt,  three  blades  of  mace,  about  a 
dozen  allspice,  and  enough  veal  broth  to  cover  it ;  put  it  over 
a  slow  fire,  and  let  it  stew  till  three  parts  done ;  put  the  trim- 
mings into  another  saucepan,  cover  it  with  water,  and  set  it 
on  a  fire.  Take  out  the  pieces  you  intend  for  the  pasty,  and 
put  them  into  a  deep  dish  with  a  little  of  their  liquor,  and  set 
it  by  to  cool ;  then  add  the  remainder  of  the  liquor  to  the 
bones  and  trimmings,  and  boil  it  till  the  pasty  is  ready;  then 
cover  the  pasty  with  paste  made  like  No.  5 ;  ornament  the 
top,  and  bake  it  for  two  hours  in  a  slow  oven ;  and  before  it 
is  sent  to  table,  pour  in  a  sauce  made  with  the  gravy  the 
venison  was  stewed  in,  strained  and  skimmed  free  from  fat ; 
some  pepper,  salt,  half  a  gill  of  Port,  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  a  little  flour  and  butter  to  thicken  it. 

Mutton  or  Veal  Pie.— (No.  10.) 

Cut  into  chops,  and  trim  neatly,  and  cut  away  the  greatest 
part  of  the  fat  of  a  loin,  or  best  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton  (the 
former  the  best),  season  them,  and  lay  them  in  a  pie  dish, 
with  a  little  water  and  half  a  gill  of  mushroom  catchup 
(chopped  onion  and  potatoes,  if  approved);  cover  it  with 
paste  (No.  2),  bake  it  two  hours ;  when  done,  lift  up  the  crust 
from  the  dish  with  a  knife,  pour  out  all  the  gravy,  let  it  stand, 
and  skim  it  clean;  add,  if  wanted,  some  more  seasoning; 
make  it  boil,  and  pour  it  into  the  pie. 

Veal  pie  may  be  made  of  the  brisket  part  of  the  breast ;  but 
must  be  parboiled  first. 

Hare  Pie.— (No.  11.) 

Take  the  hare  skinned  and  washed,  cut  it  into  pieces,  and 
parboil  it  for  two  minutes  to  cleanse  it ;  wash  it  well,  and  put 
it  in  a  stew-pot  with  six  eschalots  chopped,  a  gill  of  Port 
wine,  a  small  quantity  of  thyme,  savoury,  sweet  marjoram, 
and  parsley,  tied  in  a  bunch,  four  cloves,  and  half  a  dozen 
allspice ;  cover  it  with  veal  broth,  and  stew  it  till  half  done ; 
pick  out  the  prime  pieces,  such  as  the  back,  legs,  &c.  (leaving 
the  remainder  to  stew  till  the  goodness  is  quite  extracted) ; 
take  the  parts  preserved,  and  fill  them  into  a  dish  with  some 
water,  and  cover  it  with  paste  as  No.  2 ;  bake  it  an  hour ; 


PASTRY,  &C.  363 

strain  the  gravy  from  the  trimmings,  thicken  it  a  little,  and 
throw  in  half  a  gill  of  Port,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and 
pour  it  into  the  pie  boiling  hot ;  line  the  bottom  of  the  dish 
with  Hare  stuffing  (No.  379),  or  make  it  into  forcemeat 
balls. 

Pies  of  game  and  wild  fowl  are  made  in  like  manner ;  and 
as  the  following  receipt  for  Pigeon  pie. 

Savoury  Pies,  Pasties,  and  Patties. — (No.  12.) 

The  piquance  of  pies  may  be  regulated  ad  libitum,  by 
sprinkling  the  articles  with  zest  (No.  255),  curry  powder  No. 
455,  and  see  Nos.  457  and  459),  or  by  covering  the  bottom  of 
the  dish  with  any  of  the  forcemeats  enumerated  in  Nos.  373 
to  385,  and  making  it  into  balls ;  lay  one  ring  of  these,  and 
another  of  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  halves,  round  the  top  of 
the  pie ;  and  instead  of  putting  in  water,  put  strong  gravy. 
After  the  pies  are  baked,  pour  in  through  a  funnel  any  of  the 
various  gravies,  sauces,  &c. :  truffles,  mushrooms,  wine, 
spices,  pickles,  &c.  are  also  added.  See  also  Nos.  396 
to  402. 

MEM.  These  are  dishes  contrived  rather  to  excite  appetite 
than  to  satisfy  it.  Putting  meat  or  poultry  into  a  pie  is  cer- 
tainly the  very  worst  way  of  cooking  it ;  it  is  often  baked  to 
rags;  and  very  rarely  indeed  does  a  savoury  pie  come  to 
table  that  deserves  to  be  introduced  to  the  stomach. 

Pigeon  or  Lark  Pie. — (No.  13.) 

Truss  half  a  dozen  fine  large  pigeons  as  for  stewing,  sea- 
son them  with  pepper  and  salt ;  lay  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish 
u  rump-steak  of  about  a  pound  weight,  cut  into  pieces  and 
trimmed  neatly,  seasoned,  and  beat  out  with  a  chopper :  on 
it  lay  the  pigeons,  the  yelks  of  three  eggs  boiled  hard,  and  a 
gill  of  broth  or  water,  and  over  these  a  layer  of  steaks ;  wet 
the  edge  of  the  dish,  and  cover  it  over  with  puff  paste  (No.  f), 
or  the  paste  as  directed  for  seasoned  pies  (No.  2) ;  wash  it 
over  with  yelk  of  egg,  and  ornament  it  with  leaves  of  paste 
and  the  feet  of  the  pigeons ;  bake  it  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a 
moderate-heated  oven:  before  it  is  sent  to  table  make  an 
aperture  in  the  top,  and  pour  in  some  good  gravy  quite  hot. 

Giblet  Pie.— (No.  14.) 

Clean  well,  and  half  stew  two  or  three  sets  of  goose  gib- 
lets :  cut  the  legs  in  two,  the  wing  and  neck  into  three,  and 
the  gizzard  into  four  pieces ;  preserve  the  liquor,  and  set  the 


364  PASTRY,  &C. 

giblets  by  till  cold,  otherwise  the  heat  of  the  giblets  will  spoil 
the  paste  you  cover  the  pie  with :  then  season  the  whole  with 
black  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  them  into  a  deep  dish ;  cover 
it  with  paste  as  directed  in  No.  2,  rub  it  over  with  yelk  of 
egg,  ornament  and  bake  it  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  moderate 
oven:  in  the  meantime  take  the  liquor  the  giblets  were 
stewed  in,  skim  it  free  from  fat,  put  it  over  a  fire  in  a  clean 
stew-pan,  thicken  it  a  little  with  flour  and  butter,  or  flour  and 
water,  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon ;  add  a  few  drops  of  browning,  strain  it  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  when  you  take  the  pie  from  the  oven,  pour  some 
of  this  into  it  through  a  funnel.  Some  lay  in  the  bottom  of 
the  dish  a  moderately  thick  rump-steak :  if  you  have  any  cold 
game  or  poultry,  cut  it  in  pieces,  and  add  it  to  the  above. 

Rump-Steak  Pie.— (No.  15.) 

Cut  three  pounds  of  rump-steak  (that  has  been  kept  till 
tender)  into  pieces  half  as  big  as  your  hand,  trim  off  all  the 
skin,  sinews,  and  every  part  which  has  not  indisputable  pre- 
tensions to  be  eaten,  and  beat  them  with  a  chopper :  chop 
very  fine  half  a  dozen  eschalots,  and  add  them  to  half  an 
ounce  of  pepper  and  salt  mixed ;  strew  some  of  the  mixture 
at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  then  a  layer  of  steak,  then  some 
more  of  the  mixture,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  is  full ;  add  half 
a  gill  of  mushroom  catchup,  and  the  same  quantity  of  gravy  9 
or  red  wine ;  cover  it  as  in  the  preceding  receipt,  and  bake 
it  two  hours. 

N.B.  Large  oysters,  parboiled,  bearded,  and  laid  alter- 
nately with  the  steaks,  their  liquor  reduced  and  substituted 
instead  of  the  catchup  and  wine,  will  be  a  variety, 

Chicken  Pie.— (No.  16.) 

Parboil,  and  then  cut  up  neatly  two  young  chickens ;  dry 
them ;  set  them  over  a  slow  fire  for  a  few  minutes ;  have 
ready  some  veal  stuffing  or  forcemeat  (No.  374  or  No.  375), 
lay  it  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  place  in  the  chickens 
upon  it,  and  with  it  some  pieces  of  dressed  ham ;  cover  it 
with  paste  (No.  1).  Bake  it  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two 
hours;  when  sent  to  table,  add  some  good  gravy,  well 
seasoned,  and  not  too  thick. 

Duck  pie  is  made  in  like  manner,  only  substituting  the 
duck,  stuffing  (No.  378),  instead  of  the  veal. 

N.B.  The  above  may  be  put  into  a  raised  French  crust 
(see  No.  18)  and  baked;  when  done,  take  off  the  top,  and 
put  a  ragotit  of  sweetbread  to  the  chickem 


PASTRY,    &C.  365 

Rabbit  Pie.— (No.  17.) 

Made  in  the  same  way ;  but  make  a  forcemeat  to  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  dish,  by  pounding  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  boiled  bacon  with  the  livers  of  the  rabbits ;  some  pepper 
and  salt,  some  pounded  mace,  some  chopped  parsley,  and  an 
eschalot,  thoroughly  beaten  together ;  and  you  may  lay  some 
thin  slices  of  ready-dressed  ham  or  bacon  on  the  top  of  your 
rabbits.  "  This  pie  will  ask  two  hours  baking,"  says  Mrs, 
Mary  Tillinghast,  in  page  29  of  her  12mo.  vol.  of  rare  re- 
ceipts, 1678. 

Raised  French  Pie.— (No.  18.) 

Make  about  two  pounds  of  flour  into  a  paste,  as  directed 
(No.  5) ;  knead  it  well,  and  into  the  shape  of  a  ball ;  press 
your  thumb  into  the  centre,  and  work  it  by  degrees  into  any 
shape  (oval  or  round  is  the  most  general),  till  about  five 
inches  high ;  put  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper,  and  fill  it  with  coarse 
flour  or  bran ;  roll  out  a  covering  for  it  about  the  same  thick- 
ness as  the  sides ;  cement  its  sides  with  the  yelk  of  egg ; 
cut  the  edges  quite  even,  and  pinch  it  round  with  the  finger 
and  thumb,  yelk  of  egg  it  over  with  a  paste-brush,  and  orna- 
ment it  in  any  way  fancy  may  direct,  with  the  same  kind  of 
paste.  Bake  it  of  a  fine  brown  colour,  in  a  slow  oven ;  and 
when  done,  cut  out  the  top,  remove  the  flour  or  bran,  brush 
it  quite  clean,  and  fill  it  up  with  a  fricassee  of  chicken,  rab- 
bit, or  any  other  entree  most  convenient.  Send  it  to  table 
with  a  napkin  under. 

Raised  Hani  Pie.— (No.  19:) 

Soak  a  small  ham  four  or  five  hours ;  wash  and  scrape  it 
well ;  cut  off  the  knuckle,  and  boil  it  for  half  an  hour ;  then 
take  it  up  and  trim  it  very  neatly;  take  off  the  rind  and  put 
it  into  an  oval  stew-pan,  with  a  pint  of  Madeira  or  sherry, 
and  enough  veal  stock  to  cover  it.  Let  it  stew  for  two  hours, 
or  till  three  parts  done ;  take  it  out  and  set  it  in  a  cold  place  ; 
then  raise  a  crust  as  in  the  foregoing  receipt,  large  enough 
to  receive  it ;  put  in  the  ham,  and  round  it  the  veal  force- 
meat ;  cover  and  ornament ;  it  will  take  about  an  hour  and 
a  half  to  bake  in  a  slow  oven :  when  done,  take  off  the 
cover,  glaze  the  top,  and  pour  round  the  following  sauce, 
viz.  take  the  liquor  the  ham  was  stewed  in ;  skim  it  free  from 
fat ;  thicken  with  a  little  flour  and  butter  mixed  together ;  a 
few  drops  of  browning,  and  some  Cayenne  pepper, 
HhS 


366  PASTRiT,    &C. 

P.S.  The  above  is,  I  think,  a  good  way  of  dressing  a  small 
ham,  and  has  a  good  effect  cold  for  a  supper. 

Feal  and  Ham  Pie.— (No.  20.) 

Take  two  pounds  of  veal  cutlet,  cut  them  in  middling- 
sized  pieces,  season  with  pepper  and  a  very  little  salt ;  like- 
wise one  of  raw  or  dressed  ham  cut  in  slices,  lay  it  alter- 
nately in  the  dish,  and  put  some  forced  or  sausage  meat  (No. 
374,  or  No.  375)  at  the  top,  with  some  stewed  button  mush- 
rooms, and  the  yelks  of  three  eggs  boiled  hard,  and  a  gill  of 
water ;  then  proceed  as  with  rump-steak  pie. 

N.B.  The  best  end  of  a  neck  is  the  fine  part  for  a  pie,  cut 
into  chops,  and  the  chine  bone  taken  away. 

Raised  Pork  Pie.— (No.  21.) 

Make  a  raised  crust,  of  a  good  size,  with  paste  (as  di- 
rected in  No.  5),  about  four  inches  high ;  take  the  rind  and 
chine  bone  from  a  loin  of  pork,  cut  it  into  chops,  beat  them 
with  a  chopper,  season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fill 
your  pie ;  put  on  the  top  and  close  it,  and  pinch  it  round  the 
edge ;  rub  it  over  with  yelk  of  egg,  and  bake  it  two  hours  with 
a  paper  over  it,  to  prevent  the  crust  from  burning.  When 
done,  pour  in  some  good  gravy,  with  a  little  ready-mixed 
mustard  (if  approved). 

N.B.  As  the  above  is  generally  eaten  cold,  it  is  an  ex- 
cellent repast  for  a  journey,  and  will  keep  for  several  days. 

Eel  Pie.— (No.  22.) 

Take  eels  about  half  a  pound  each ;  skin,  wash,  and  trim 
off  the  fin  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  cut  them  into  pieces  three 
inches  long,  season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fill  your 
dish,  leaving  out  the  heads  and  tails.  Add  a  gill  of  water  or 
veal  broth,  cover  it  with  paste  (No.  2),  rub  it  over  with  a 
paste-brush  dipped  in  yelk  of  egg,  ornament  it  with  some  of 
the  same  paste,  bake  it  an  hour ;  and  when  done,  make  a 
hole  in  the  centre,  and  pour  in  the  following  sauce  through 
a  funnel:  the  trimmings  boiled  in  half  a  pint  of  veal  stock, 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  and  thickened  with  flour  and  water,  strained  through 
a  fine  sieve :  add  it  boiling  hot. 

Raised  Lamb  Pies.—(No.  23.) 
Bone  a  loin  of  lamb,  cut  into  cutlets,  trim  them  very 


PASTRY,  &-C.  367 

nicely,  and  lay  them  in  the  bottom  of  a  stew  or  frying-pan, 
with  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  tea-spoonful  of  lemon-juice,  and 
some  pepper  and  salt :  put  them  over  a  fire,  and  turn  them 
and  put  them  to  cool ;  then  raise  four  or  five  small  pies  with 
paste  (as  No.  6),  about  the  size  of  a  tea-cup ;  put  some  veal 
forcemeat  at  the  bottom,  and  the  cutlets  upon  it ;  roll  out  the 
top  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  close  and  pinch  the  edges, 
bake  them  half  an  hour,  and  when  done  take  off  the  top,  and 
pour  in  some  good  brown  sauce. 

Beef-Steak  Pudding.— (No.  24.) 

Get  rump-steaks,  not  too  thick,  beat  them  with  a  chopper, 
cut  them  into  pieces  about  half  the  size  of  your  hand,  and 
trim  off  all  the  skin,  sinews,  &c. ;  have  ready  an  onion  peeled 
and  chopped  fine,  likewise  some  potatoes  peeled  and  cut  into 
slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick ;  rub  the  inside  of  a  basin  or 
an  oval  plain  mould  with  butter,  sheet  it  with  paste  as  di- 
rected for  boiled  puddings  (No.  7) ;  season  the  steaks  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg ;  put  in  a  layer  of 
steak,  then  another  of  potatoes,  and  so  on  till  it  is  full,  occa- 
sionally throwing  in  part  of  the  chopped  onion ;  add  to  it  half 
a  gill  of  mushroom  catchup,  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon- 
pickle,  and  half  a  gill  of  water  or  veal  broth ;  roll  out  a  top, 
and  close  it  well  to  prevent  the  water  getting  in ;  rinse  a 
clean  cloth  in  hot  water,  sprinkle  a  little  flour  over  it,  and 
tie  up  the  pudding ;  have  ready  a  large  pot  of  water  boiling, 
put  it  in,  and  boil  it  two  hours  and  a  half;  take  it  up,  re^ 
move  the  cloth,  turn  it  downwards  in  a  deep  dish,  and  when 
wanted  take  away  the  basin  or  mould. 

Vol  au  rent.— (No.  25.) 

Roll  off  tart  paste  (No.  3)  till  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick :  then,  with  a  tin  cutter  made  for  that  purpose  (about 
the  size  of  the  bottom  of  the  dish  you  intend  sending  to 
table),  cut  out  the  shape,  and  lay  it  on  a  baking-plate,  with 
paper ;  rub  it  over  with  yelk  of  egg ;  roll  out  good  puff  paste 
£NO.  1)  an  inch  thick,  stamp  it  with  the  same  cutter,  and  lay 
it  on  the  tart  paste ;  then  take  a  cutter  two  sizes  smaller,  and 
press  it  in  the  centre  nearly  through  the  puff  paste ;  rub  the 
top  with  yelk  of  egg,  and  bake  it  in  a  quick  oven  about  twenty 
minutes,  of  a  light  brown  colour :  when  done,  take  out  the 
paste  inside  the  centre  mark,  preserving  the  top,  put  it  on  a 
dish  in  a  warm  place,  and  when  wanted,  fill  it  with  a  white 
fricassee  of  chicken,  rabbit,  ragout  of  sweetbread,  or  any 
other  entree  you  wish. 


368  TASTED,  &c. 

Oyster  Patties.— (No.  26.) 

Roll  out  puff  paste  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  it  into 
squares  with  a  knife,  sheet  eight  or  ten  patty  pans,  put  upon 
each  a  bit  of  bread  the  size  of  half  a  walnut;  roll  out 
another  layer  of  paste  of  the  same  thickness,  cut  it  as  above, 
wet  the  edge  of  the  bottom  paste,  and  put  on  the  top,  pare 
them  round  to  the  pan,  and  notch  them  about  a  dozen  times 
with  the  back  of  the  knife,  nib  them  lightly  with  yelk  of 
egg-,  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour : 
when  done,  take  a  thin  slice  off  the  top,  then,  with  a  small 
knife  or  spoon,  take  out  the  bread  and  the  inside  paste, 
leaving  the  outside  quite  entire ;  then  parboil  two  dozen  of 
large  oysters,  strain  them  from  their  liquor,  wash,  beard,  and 
cut  them  into  four,  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  an  ounce 
of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  half  a  gill  of  good  cream,  a  little 
grated  lemon-peel,  the  oyster  liquor,  free  from  sediment, 
reduced  by  boiling  to  one  half,  some  Cayenne  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  tea-spoonful  of  lemon-juice;  stir  it  over  a  fire  five 
minutes,  and  fill  the  patties. 

Lobster  Patties.— (No.  27.) 

Prepare  the  patties  as  in  the  last  receipt.  Take  a  hen 
lobster  already  boiled;  pick  the  meat  from  the  tail  and 
claws,  and  chop  it  fine ;  put  it  into  a  stew-pan,  with  a  little 
of  the  inside  spawn  pounded  in  a  mortar  till  quite  smooth, 
an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  half  a  gill  of  cream,  and  half  a 
gill  of  veal  consomme,  Cayenne  pepper,  and  salt,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  the  same  of  lemon-juice, 
and  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  and  water:  stew  it  five  minutes. 

Veal  and  Ham  Patties.— (No.  28.) 

Chop  about  six  ounces  of  ready-dressed  lean  veal,  and 
three  ounces  of  ham  very  small ;  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with 
an  ounce  of  butter  rolled  into  flour,  half  a  gill  of  cream ; 
half  a  gill  of  veal  stock ;  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  lemon- 
peel,  some  Cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  a  spoonful  of  essence 
of  ham  and  lemon-juice,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  some  time, 
taking  care  it  does  not  burn. 

Chicken  and  Ham.  Patties.— (No.  29.) 

Use  the  white  meat  from  the  breast  of  chickens  or  fowls, 
and  proceed  as  in  the  last  receipt. 


PASTE  Y,  &C.  369 

Ripe  Fruit  Tarts.— (No.  30.) 

Gooseberries,  damsons,  morrello  cherries,  currants  mixed 
with  raspberries,  plums,  green  gages,  white  plums,  &c.  should 
be  quite  fresh  picked,  and  washed :  lay  them  in  the  dish 
with  the  centre  highest,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
moist  or  loaf  sugar  pounded  to  a  quart  of  fruit  (but  if  quite 
ripe  they  will  not  require  so  much) ;  add  a  little  water ;  rub 
the  edges  of  the  dish  with  yelk  of  egg ;  cover  it  with  tart 
paste  (No.  4),  about  half  an  inch  thick ;  press  your  thumb 
round  the  rim,  and  close  it  well ;  pare  it  round  with  a  knife  ; 
make  a  hole  in  the  sides  below  the  rim ;  bake  it  in  a  mode- 
rate-heated oven ;  and  ten  minutes  before  it  is  done,  take  it 
out  and  ice  it,  and  return  it  to  the  oven  to  dry. 

Icing  for  Fruit  Tarts,  Puffs,  or  Pastry.— (No.  31.) 

Beat  up  in  a  half-pint  mug  the  white  of  two  eggs  to  a 
solid  froth ;  lay  some  on  the  middle  of  the  pie  with  a  paste- 
brush  ;  sift  over  plenty  of  pounded  sugar,  and  press  it  down 
with  the  hand ;  wash  out  the  brush,  and  splash  by  degrees 
with  water  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  put  it  in  the  oven 
for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  it  up  cold. 

Apple  Pie.— (No.  32.) 

Take  eight  russetings,  or  lemon  pippin  apples ;  pare,  core*, 
and  cut  not  smaller  than  quarters  ;  place  them  as  close  as 
possible  together  into  a  pie-dish,  with  four  cloves ;  rub  toge- 
ther in  a  mortar  some  lemon-peel,  with  four  ounces  of  good 
moist  sugar,  and,  if  agreeable,  apd  some  quince  jam;  cover 
it  with  puff  paste ;  bake  it  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  (Generally 
eaten  warm.) 

Apple  Tart  creamed.— (No.  33.) 

Use  green  codlings,  in  preference  to  any  other  apple, 
and  proceed  as  in  the  last  receipt.  When  the  pie  is  done, 
cut  out  the  whole  of  the  centre,  leaving  the  edges ;  when 
cold,  pour  on  the  apple  some  rich  boiled  custard,  and  place 
round  it  some  small  leaves  of  puff  paste  of  a  light  colour. 
,/ 

Tartlets,  such  as  are  made  at  the  Pastry  Cooks.— (No.  34.) 

Roll  out  puff  paste  (No.  1,)  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
cut  it  into  pieces,  and  sheet  pans  about  the  size  of  a  crown 
piece,  pare  them  round  with  a  knife,  and  put  a  small  quantity 
of  apricot,  damson,  raspberry,  strawberry,  apple,  marmalade* 


370  PASTRY,  &e. 

or  any  other  kind  of  jam  (No.  92),  in  the  centre ;  take  paste 
(No.  7),  and  string  them  crossways ;  bake  them  from  six  to 
ten  minutes  in  a  quick  oven :  they  should  be  of  a  very  light 
brown  colour. 

French  Tart  of  preserved  Fruit.— (No.  35.) 

Cover  a  flat,  dish,  or  tourte  pan,  with  tart  paste  (No.  4), 
about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick;  roll  out  puff  paste  (No.  1), 
half  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  it  out  in  strips  an  inch  wide ;  wet 
the  tart  paste,  and  lay  it  neatly  round  the  pan  by  way  of  a  rim ; 
fill  the  centre  with  jam  or  marmalade  of  any  kind,  ornament 
it  with  small  leaves  of  puff  paste,  bake  it  half  an  hour,  and 
send  it  to  table  cold. 

N.B.  The  above  may  be  filled  before  the  puff  paste  is  laid 
on,  neatly  strung  with  paste,  as  No.  7,  and  the  rim  put  over 
after. 

Obs. — The  most  general  way  of  sending  tourtes  to  table, 
is  with  a  croquante  of  paste  (No.  86),  or  a  caramel  of  spun 
sugar  (No.  85),  put  over  after  it  is  baked. 

Small  Puffs  of  preserved  Fruit.— (No.  36.) 

Roll  out,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  good  puff  paste  (No. 
1),  and  cut  it  into  pieces  four  inches  square ;  lay  a  small 
quantity  of  any  kind  of  jam  on  each,  double  them  over,  and 
cut  them  into  square,  triangle,  or,  with  a  tin  cutter,  half 
moons;  lay  them  with  paper  on  a  baking-plate;  ice  them 
(as  at  No.  31),  bake  them  about  twenty  minutes,  taking  care 
not  to  colour  the  icing. 

Cranberry  Tart.— (No.  37.) 

Take  Swedish,  American,  or  Russian  cranberries,  pick 
and  wash  them  in  several  waters,  put  them  into  a  dish,  with 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  moist  or 
pounded  loaf  sugar,  to  a  quart  of  cranberries.  Cover  it 
with  puff  (No.  1)  or  tart  paste  (No.  4),  and  bake  it  three 
quarters  of  an  hour ;  if  tart  paste  is  used,  draw  it  from  the 
oven  five  minutes  before  it  is  done,  and  ice  it  as  No.  31, 
return  it  to  the  oven,  and  send  it  to  table  cold. 

Mince  Pies.— (No.  38.) 

Sheet  with  tart  paste  (No.  4),  half  a  dozen  of  tin  pans  of 
any  size  you  please ;  fill  them  with  mince  meat  (No.  39), 
and  cover  with  puff  paste,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  j  trim 


PASTRY,  &C  371 

round  the  edges  with  a  knife,  make  an  aperture  at  the  top 
with  a  fork,  bake  them  in  a  moderate-heated  oven,  and  send 
them  to  table  hot,  first  removing  the  tin. 
N.B.  Some  throw  a  little  sifted  loaf  sugar  over. 

Mince  Meat.— (No.  39.) 

Two  pounds  of  beef  suet,  picked  and  chopped  fine ;  two 
pounds  of  apple,  pared,  cored,  and  minced ;  three  pounds  of 
currants,  washed  and  picked ;  one  pound  of  raisins,  stoned 
and  chopped  fine ;  one  pound  of  good  moist  sugar ;  half 
a  pound  of  citron,  cut  into  thin  slices ;  one  pound  of  candied 
lemon  and  orange-peel,  cut  as  ditto ;  two  pounds  of  ready- 
dressed  roast  beef,  free  from  skin  and  gristle,  and  chopped 
fine ;  two  nutmegs,  grated ;  one  ounce  of  salt,  one  of  ground 
ginger,  half  an  ounce  of  coriander  seeds,  half  an  ounce  of 
allspice,  half  an  ounce  of  cloves,  all  ground  fine ;  the  juice 
of  six  lemons,  and  their  rinds  grated ;  half  a  pint  of  brandy, 
and  a  pint  of  sweet  wine.  Mix  the  suet,  apples,  currants, 
meat-plums,  and  sweetmeats,  well  together  in  a  large  pan, 
and  strew  in  the  spice  by  degrees ;  mix  the  sugar,  lemon- 
juice,  wine,  and  brandy,  and  pour  it  to  the  other  ingre- 
dients, and  stir  it  well  together ;  set  it  by  in  close-covered 
pans  in  a  cold  place:  when  wanted,  stir  it  up  from  the 
bottom,  and  add  half  a  glass  of  brandy  to  the  quantity  you 
require. 

N.B.  The  same  weight  of  tripe  is  frequently  substituted 
for  the  meat,  and  sometimes  the  yelks  of  eggs  boiled  hard. 

Obs. — The  lean  side  of  a  buttock,  thoroughly  roasted,  is 
generally  chosen  for  mince  meat. 

Cheesecakes.— (No.  40.) 

Put  two  quarts  of  new  milk  into  a  stew-pan,  set  it  near 
the  fire,  and  stir  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  rennet :  let  it 
stand  till  it  is  set  (this  will  take  about  an  hour) ;  break  it 
well  with  your  hand,  and  let  it  remain  half  an  hour  longer ; 
then  pour  off  the  whey,  and  put  the  curd  into  a  colander  to 
drain ;  when  quite  dry,  put  it  in  a  mortar,  and  pound  it  quite 
smooth ;  then  add  four  ounces  of  sugar,  pounded  and  sifted, 
and  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter ;  oil  it  first  by  putting  it  in 
a  little  potting-pot,  and  setting  it  near  the  fire ;  stir  it  all  well 
together :  beat  the  yelks  of  four  eggs  in  a  basin,  with  a  little 
nutmeg  grated,  lemon-peel,  and  a  glass  of  brandy ;  add  this 
to  the  curd,  with  two  ounces  of  currants,  washed  and  picked; 
stir  it  all  well  together ;  have  your  tins  ready  lined  with  puff 
paste  (No.  1),  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  notch  them 


372  PASTRY,  &C. 

all  round  the  edge,  and  fill  each  with  the  curd.    Bake  them 
twenty  minutes. 

When  you  have  company,  and  want  a  variety,  you  can 
make  a  mould  of  curd  and  cream,  by  putting  the  curd  in  a 
mould  full  of  holes,  instead  of  the  colander :  let  it  stand  for 
six  hours,  then  turn  it  out  very  carefully  on  a  dish,  and  pour 
over  it  half  a  pint  of  good  cream  sweetened  with  loaf  sugar, 
and  a  little  nutmeg.  What  there  is  left,  if  set  in  a  cool  place, 
will  make  excellent  cheesecakes  the  next  day. 

Lemon  Cheesecakes.— (No.  41.) 

Grate  the  rind  of  three,  and  take  the  juice  of  two  lemons, 
and  mix  them  with  three  sponge  biscuits,  six  ounces  of  fresh 
butter,  four  ounces  of  sifted  sugar,  a  little  grated  nutmeg 
and  pounded  cinnamon,  half  a  gill  of  cream,  and  three  eggs 
well  beaten ;  work  them  with  the  hand,  and  fill  the  pans, 
which  must  be  sheeted  as  in  the  last  receipt  with  puff  paste, 
and  lay  two  or  three  slices  of  candied  lemon-peel,  cut  thin, 
upon  the  top. 

Orange  Cheesecakes.— (No.  42.) 

To  be  made  in  the  same  way,  omitting  the  lemons,  and 
using  oranges  instead. 

Almond  Cheesecakes.— (No.  43.) 

Blanch  six  ounces  of  sweet,  and  half  an  ounce  of  bitter 
almonds ;  let  them  lie  half  an  hour  in  a  drying  stove,  or 
before  the  fire  ;  pound  them  very  fine  in  a  mortar,  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  rose  or  orange-flower  water,  to  prevent 
them  from  oiling ;  set  into  a  stew-pan  half  a  pound  of  fresh 
butter ;  set  it  in  a  warm  place,  and  cream  it  very  smooth  with 
the  hand,  and  add  it  to  the  almonds,  with  six  ounces  of  sifted 
loaf  sugar,  a  little  grated  lemon-peel,  some  good  cream,  and 
four  eggs ;  rub  all  well  together  with  the  pestle ;  cover  a  patty- 
pan with  puff  paste ;  fill  in  the  mixture ;  ornament  it  witli 
slices  of  candied  lemon-peel  and  almonds  split,  and  bake  it 
half  an  hour  in  a  brisk  oven. 

Mile  Fewilles,  or  a  Pyramid  of  Paste.— (No.  44.) 

Roll  out  puff  paste  (No.  1,)  half  an  inch  thick ;  cut  out 
with  a  cutter  made  for  the  purpose,  in  the  shape  of  an  oval, 
octagon,  square,  diamond,  or  any  other  form,  (and  to  be  got 
of  most  tinmen,)  observing  to  let  the  first  piece  be  as  large 


PASTRY,  &C.  373 

as  the  bottom  of  the  dish  you  intend  sending  it  to  table  on : 
the  second  piece  a  size  smaller,  and  so  on  in  proportion,  till 
the  last  is  about  the  size  of  a  shilling ;  lay  them  with  paper 
on  a  baking-plate,  yelk  of  egg  the  top,  and  bake  them  of  a 
light  brown  colour :  take  them  from  the  paper,  and  when 
cold  put  the  largest  size  in  the  dish,  then  a  layer  of  apricot 
jam ;  then  the  next  size,  a  layer  of  raspberry  jam,  and  so  on, 
varying  the  jam  between  each  layer  ,of  paste  to  the  top,  on 
which  place  a  bunch  of  dried  fruit,  and  spin  a  caramel  (No, 
85)  of  sugar  over  it. 

Brunswick  Tourte.—(No.  45.) 

Make  a  crust  as  for  vol  au  vent  (No.  25) ;  pare  and  core 
with  a  scoop  eight  or  ten  golden  pippins;  put  them  into 
a  stew-pan,  with  a  gill  of  sweet  wine,  and  four  ounces 
of  sifted  loaf  sugar,  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  a  small  stick  of 
cinnamon,  and  a  blade  of  mace;  stew  them  over  a  slow 
fire  till  the  apples  are  tender;  set  them  by:  when  cold, 
place  them  in  the  paste,  and  pour  round  them  some  good 
custard  (No.  53). 

Blancmange. — (No.  46.) 

Boil  for  a  few  minutes  a  pint  and  a  half  of  new  milk,  with 
an  ounce  of  picked  isinglass  (if  in  summer,  ane  ounce  and 
a  quarter),  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  peeled  very  thin,  a 
little  cinnamon,  and  a  blade  of  mace,  and  two  and  a  half 
ounces  of  lump  sugar :  blanch  and  pound  eight  or  ten  bitter, 
and  half  an  ounce  of  sweet  almonds  very  fine,  with  a 
spoonful  of  rose  water,  and  mix  them  with  the  milk; 
strain  it  through  a  lawn  sieve  or  napkin  into  a  basin,  with 
half  a  pint  of  good  cream.  Let  it  stand  half  an  hour; 
pour  it  into  another  basin,  leaving  the  sediment  at  the 
bottom,  and  when  nearly  cold  fill  it  into  moulds:  when 
wanted,  put  your  finger  round  the  mould ;  pull  out  the  blanc- 
mange ;  set  it  in  the  centre  of  a  dish,  and  garnish  with  slices 
of  orange. 

N.B.  About  half  a  gill  of  noyeau  may  be  substituted  for 
the  almonds. 

Orange  Jelly.— (No.  47 

Boil  in  a  pint  of  water  one  ounce  and  a  quarter  of  picked 
isinglass,  the  rind  of  an  orange  cut  thin,  a  stick  of  cin- 
namon, a  few  corianders,  and  three  ounces  of  loaf-sugar, 
till  the  isinglass  is  dissolved;  then  squeeze  two  Seville 


374  PASTRY,  &C. 

oranges  or  lemons,  and  enough  China  oranges  to  make 
a  pint  of  juice :  mix  all  together,  and  strain  it  through  a 
tamis  or  lawn  sieve  into  a  basin ;  set  it  in  a  cold  place  for  half 
an  hour ;  pour  it  into  another  basin  free  from  sediment ;  and 
when  it  begins  to  congeal,  fill  your  mould :  when  wanted, 
dip  the  mould  into  lukewarm  water;  turn  it  out  on  a  dish, 
and  garnish  with  orange  or  lemon  cut  in  slices,  and  placed 
round. 

N.B.  A  few  grains  of  saffron  put  in  the  water  will  add 
much  to  its  appearance. 

Italian  Cream.— (No.  48.) 

Rub  on  a  lump  of  sugar  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  scrape  it 
off  with  a  knife  into  a  deep  dish  or  china  bowl,  and  add  half 
a  gill  of  brandy,  two  ounces  and  a  half  of  sifted  sugar,  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  pint  of  double  cream,  and  beat  it  up 
well  with  a  clean  whisk ;  in  the  meantime,  boil  an  ounce  of 
isinglass  in  a  gill  of  water  till  quite  dissolved ;  strain  it  to 
the  other  ingredients ;  beat  it  some  time,  and  fill  your 
mould ;  and  when  cold  and  set  well,  dish  it  as  in  the  foregoing 
receipt. 

N.B.  The  above  may  be  flavoured  with  any  kind  of 
liqueur,  raspberry,  strawberry,  or  other  fruits,  coloured  with 
prepared  cochineal,  and  named  to  correspond  with  the 
flavour  given. 

Trifle.— (No.  49.) 

Mix  in  a  large  bowl  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted  sugar, 
the  juice  of  a  lemon,  some  of  the  peel  grated  fine,  half  a 
gill  of  brandy,  and  ditto  of  Lisbon  or  sweet  wine,  and  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  good  cream ;  whisk  the  whole  well,  and 
take  off  the  froth  as  it  rises  with  a  skimmer,  and  put  it  on  a 
sieve ;  continue  to  whisk  it  till  you  have  enough  of  the  whip ; 
set  it  in  a  cold  place  to  drain  three  or  four  hours ;  then  lay  in 
a  deep  dish  six  or  eight  sponge  biscuits,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  ratafia,  two  ounces  of  Jordan  almonds  blanched  and  split, 
some  grated  nutmeg  and  lemon-peel,  currant  jelly  and  rasp- 
berry jam,  half  a  pint  of  sweet  wine,  and  a  little  brandy ; 
when  the  cakes  have  absorbed  the  liquor,  pour  over  about  a 
pint  of  custard,  made  rather  thicker  than  for  apple  pie ;  and, 
when  wanted,  lay  on  lightly  plenty  of  the  whip,  and  throw 
over  a  few  nonpareil  comfits. 


PASTRY,  &C.  375 

Whip  Syllabub.— (No.  50.; 

Make  a  whip  as  in  the  last  receipt ;  mix  with  a  pint  of 
cream,  half  a  pint  of  sweet  wine,  a  glass  of  brandy,  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  grated  nutmeg,  six  ounces  of  sifted  loaf  sugar: 
nearly  fill  the  custard-glasses  with  the  mixture,  and  lay  on 
with  a  spoon  some  of  the  whip. 

Chantilly  Basket.— (No.  51.) 

Dip  into  sugar  boiled  to  a  caramel  (See  No.  85)  small 
ratafias,  stick  them  on  a  dish  in  what  form  you  please,  then 
take  ratafias  one  size  larger,  and  having  dipped  them  into 
the  sugar,  build  them  together  till  about  four  or  five  inches 
high ;  make  a  rim  of  York  drops  or  drageas  of  gum  paste, 
likewise  a  handful  of  sugar  or  ratafia,  and  set  it  over  the 
basket ;  line  the  inside  with  wafer-paper,  and  a  short  time 
before  it  is  wanted,  fill  it  with  a  mixture  the  same  as  for  trifle, 
and  upon  that  plenty  of  good  whip. 

Baked  Custard.— (No.  52.) 

Boil  in  a  pint  of  milk,  a  few  coriander  seeds,  a  little  cinna- 
mon and  lemon-peel ;  sweeten  with  four  ounces  of  loaf  sugar, 
and  mix  with  it  a  pint  of  cold  milk ;  beat  well  eight  eggs  for 
ten  minutes,  and  add  the  other  ingredients ;  pour  it  from  one 
pan  into  another  six  or  eight  times,  strain  it  through  a  sieve, 
and  let  it  stand  some  time ;  skim  off  the  froth  from  the  top,  fill 
it  in  earthen  cups,  and  bake  them  immediately  in  a  hot  oven, 
give  them  a  good  colour ;  about  ten  minutes  will  do  them. 

Boiled  Custard.— (No.  53.) 

Boil  in  a  pint  of  milk,  five  minutes,  lemon-peel,  corianders, 
and  cinnamon,  a  small  quantity  of  each,  half  a  dozen  of  bitter 
almonds,  blanched  and  pounded,  and  four  ounces  of  loaf 
sugar :  mix  it  with  a  pint  of  cream,  the  yelks  of  ten  eggs, 
and  the  whites  of  six,  well  beaten ;  pass  it  through  a  hair- 
sieve,  stir  it  with  a  whisk  over  a  slow  fire  till  it  begins  to 
thicken,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  continue  to  stir  it  till 
nearly  cold ;  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy,  fill  the  cups 
or  glasses,  and  grate  nutmeg  over. 

Almond  Custards.— (No.  54.) 

Blanch  and  pound  fine,  with  half  a  gill  of  rose  water,  six 
ounces  of  sweet,  and  half  an  ounce  of  bitter  almonds ;  boil  a 
pint  of  milk  as  No.  52 ;  sweeten  it  with  two  ounces  and  a 


376  PASTRY,  &C. 

half  of  sugar ;  rub  the  almonds  through  a  fine  sieve,  with  a 
pint  of  cream ;  strain  the  milk  to  the  yelks  of  eight  eggs,  and 
the  whites  of  three  well-beaten ;  stir  it  over  a  fire  till  it  is  of 
a  good  thickness ;  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  stir  it  till  nearh 
cold,  to  prevent  its  curdling. 

N.B.  The  above  may  be  baked  in  cups,  or  in  a  dish,  with 
a  rim  of  puff  paste  put  round. 

Twelfth  Ozfce.— (No.  55.) 

Two  pounds  of  sifted  flour,  two  pounds  of  sifted  loaf  sugar, 
two  pounds  of  butter,  eighteen  eggs,  four  pounds  of  currants, 
one  half  pound  of  almonds  blanched  and  chopped,  one  half 
pound  of  citron,  one  pound  of  candied  orange  and  lemon- 
peel  cut  into  thin  slices,  a  large  nutmeg  grated,  half  an  ounce 
of  ground  allspice;  ground  cinnamon,  mace,  ginger,  and 
eorianders,  a  quarter  of  anounce  of  each,  and  a  gill  of  brandy. 

Put  the  butter  into  a  stew-pan,  in  a  warm  place,  and  work 
it  into  a  smooth  cream  with  the  hand,  and  mix  it  with  the 
sugar  and  spice  in  a  pan  (or  on  your  paste  board)  for  some 
time ;  then  break  in  the  eggs  by  degrees,  and  beat  it  at  least 
twenty  minutes ;  stir  in  the  brandy,  and  then  the  flour,  and 
work  it  a  little ;  add  the  fruit,  sweetmeats,  and  almonds,  and 
mix  all  together  lightly ;  have  ready  a  hoop  cased  with  paper, 
on  a  baking-plate ;  put  in  the  mixture,  smooth  it  on  the  top 
with  your  hand,  dipped  in  milk ;  put  the  plate  on  another, 
with  sawdust  between,  to  prevent  the  bottom  from  colouring 
loo  much :  bake  it  in  a  slow  oven*  four  hours  or  more,  and 
when  nearly  cold,  ice  it  with  No.  84. 

This  mixture  would  make  a  handsome  cake,  full  twelve  or 
fourteen  inches  over. 

*  The  goodness  of  a  cake  or  biscuit  depends  much  on  its  being  well  baked  ;  great 
attention  should  be  paid  to  the  different  degrees  of  heat  of  the  oven :  be  sure  to  have 
it  of  a  good  sound  heat  at  first,  when,  after  its  being  well  cleaned  out,  may  be  baked 
such  articles  as  require  a  hot  oven,  after  which  such  as  are  directed  to  be  baked  in 
a  well-heated  or  moderate  oven ;  and.  lastly,  those  in  a  slow  soaking  or  cool  one. 
With  a  little  care  the  above  degrees  may  soon  be  known. 

In  making  butter  cakes,  such  as  Nos.  55, 57,  or  61,  too  much  attention  cannot  be 
paid  to  have  the  butter  well  creamed  ;  for  should  it  be  made  too  warm,  it  would 
cause  the  mixture  to  be  the  same,  and  when  put  to  bake,  the  fruit,  sweetmeats,  &c. 
would,  in  that  event,  fall  to  the  bottom. 

Yest  cakes  should  be  well  proved  before  put  into  the  oven,  as  they  will  prove 
but  little  afterward. 

In  making  biscuits  and  cakes  where  butter  is  not  used,  the  different  utensils  should, 
be  kept  free  from  all  kinds  of  grease,  or  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  have  good  ones. 

In  buttering  the  insides  of  cake-moulds,  the  butter  should  be  nicely  clarified,  and 
when  nearly  cold,  laid  on  quite  smooth,  with  a  small  brush  kept  for  that  purpose. 

Sugar  and  flour  should  be  quite  dry,  and  a  drum  sieve  is  recommended  for  the 
sugar.  The  old  way  of  beating  the  yelks  and  whites  of  eggs  separate  (except  in 
very  few  cases),  is  not  only  useless,  but  a  waste  of  time.  They  should  be  well 
incorporated  with  the  other  ingredients,  and,  in  some  instances,  they  cannot  be  beaten 
too  much. 


PASTRY,  &C.  377 

Obs. — If  made  in  cold  weather,  the  eggs  should  be  broken 
into  a  pan,  and  set  into  another  filled  with  hot  water ;  like- 
wise the  fruit,  sweetmeats,  and  almonds,  laid  in  a  warm  place, 
otherwise  it  may  chill  the  butter,  and  cause  the  cake  to  be 
heavy. 

Bride,  or  Wedding  Cake.— (No.  56.) 

The  only  difference  usually  made  in  these  cakes  is,  the 
addition  of  one  pound  of  raisins,  stoned  and  mixed  with  the 
other  fruit. 

Plain  Pound  Cake.— (No.  57.) 

Cream,  as  in  No.  55,  one  pound  of  butter,  and  work  it  well 
together  with  one  pound  of  sifted  sugar  till  quite  smooth; 
beat  up  nine  eggs,  and  put  them  by  degrees  to  the  butter,  and 
beat  them  for  twenty  minutes ;  mix  in  lightly  one  pound  of 
flour;  put  the  whole  into  a  hoop,  cased  with  paper,  on  a  baking- 
plate,  and  bake  it  about  one  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

An  ounce  of  caraway-seeds  added  to  the  above,  will  make 
what  is  termed  a  rich  seed  cake. 

Plum  Pound  Cake.— (No.  58.) 

Make  a  cake  as  No.  57,  and  when  you  have  beaten  it,  mix  in 
lightly  half  a  pound  of  currants,  two  ounces  of  orange,  and 
two  ounces  of  candied  lemon-peel  cut  small,  and  half  a  nut- 
meg grated. 

Common  Seed  Cake.— (No.  59.) 

Sift  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  flour,  with  half  a  pound  of 
good  Lisbon  or  loaf  sugar,  pounded  into  a  pan  or  bowl ;  make 
a^cavity  in  the  centre,  and  pour  in  half  a  pint  of  lukewarm 
milk,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  thick  yest ;  mix  the  milk  and 
yest  with  enough  flour  to  make  it  as  thick  as  cream  (this  is 
called  setting  a  sponge) ;  set  it  by  in  a  warm  place  for  one- 
hour  ;  in  the  meantime,  melt  to  an  oil  half  a  pound  of  fresh 
butter,  and  add  it  to  the  other  ingredients,  with  one  ounce 
of  caraway-seeds,  and  enough  of  milk  to  make  it  of  a  mid- 
dling stiffness ;  line  a  hoop  with  paper,  well  rubbed  over  with 
butter ;  put  in  the  mixture ;  set  it  some  time  to  prove  in  a 
stove,  or  before  the  fire,  and  bake  it  on  a  plate  about  an  hour, 
in  rather  a  hot  oven ;  when  done,  rub  the  top  over  with  a 
paste-brush  dipped  in  milk. 


\ 
378  PASTRY,  &C. 

Rich  Yest  Cake.— (No.  60.) 

Set  a  sponge  as  in  the  foregoing  receipt,  with  the  same 
proportions  of  flour,  sugar,  milk,  and  yest :  when  it  has  lain 
some  time,  mix  it  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter 
oiled,  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  currants,  half  a  pound  of 
candied  lemon  and  orange-peel  cut  fine,  grated  nutmeg, 
ground  allspice  and  cinnamon,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
each:  case  a  hoop  as  stated  No.  59,  bake  it  in  a  good-heated 
oven  one  hour  and  a  half. 

N.B.  It  may  be  iced  with  No.  84,  and  ornamented  as  a 
twelfth  cake. 

Queen,  or  Heart  Cakes.— (No.  61.) 

One  pound  of  sifted  sugar,  one  pound  of  butter,  eight 
eggs,  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour,  two  ounces  of  cur- 
rants, and  half  a  nutmeg  grated. 

Cream  the  butter  as  at  No.  55,  and  mix  it  well  with  the 

sugar  and  spice,  then  put  in  half  the  eggs  and  beat  it  ten 

minutes,  add  the  remainder  of  the  eggs,  and  work  it  ten 

minutes  longer,  stir  in  the  flour  lightly,  and  the  currants 

afterward,  then  take  small  tin  pans  of  any  shape  (hearts 

he  most  usual),  rub  the  inside  of  each  with  butter,  fill  and 

>ake  them  a  few  minutes  in  a  hot  oven,  on   a  sheet  of 

matted  wire,  or  on  a  baking-plate ;  when  done,  remove  them 

as  early  as  possible  from  the  pans. 

Queen's  Drops.— (No.  62.) 

Leave  out  four  ounces  of  flour  from  the  last  receipt,  and 
add  two  ounces  more  of  currants,  and  two  ounces  of  candied 
peel  cut  small ;  work  it  the  same  as  in  the  last  receip^  and 
when  ready  put  the  measure  into  a  biscuit-funnel,*  and  lay 
them  out  in  drops  about  the  size  of  half  a  crown,  on  white 
paper ;  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven,  and,  when  nearly  cold,  take 
them  from  the  paper. 

Shrewsbury  Cakes.— (No.  63.) 

Rub  well  together  one  pound  of  pounded  sugar,  one  pound 
of  fresh  butter,  and  one  pound  and  a  half  of  sifted  flour,  mix 

*  Take  fine  brown  Holland,  and  make  a  bag  in  the  form  of  a  cone,  about  five 
inches  over  at  the  top.  Cut  a  small  hole  at  the  bottom,  and  tie  in  a  small  pipe  of  a 
tapering  form,  about  two  inches  long ;  and  the  bore  must  be  large  or  small,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  biscuits  or  cakes  to  be  made.  When  the  various  mixtures  ar* 
pul  in,,  lay  the  pipe  close  to  the  paper,  and  press  it  out  in  rows. 

Some  use  a  bullock's  bladder  for  tke  purpose. 


PASTRY,    &C.  379 

it  into  a  paste,  with  half  a  gill  of  milk  or  cream,  and  one 
egg,  let  it  lie  half  an  hour,  roll  it  out  thin,  cut  it  out  into 
small  cakes  with  a  tin  cutter,  about  three  inches  over,  and 
bake  them  on  a  clean  baking-plate  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Banbury  Cakes.— (No.  64.) 

Set  a  sponge  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  thick  yest,  a 
gill  of  warm  milk,  and  a  pound  of  flour ;  when  it  has  worked 
a  little,  mix  with  it  half  a  pound  of  currants,  washed  and 
picked,  half  a  pound  of  candied  orange  and  lemon  peel  cut 
small,  one  ounce  of  spice,  such  as  ground  cinnamon,  allspice, 
ginger,  and  grated  nutmeg:  mix  the  whole  together  with 
half  a  pound  of  honey ;  roll  out  puff  paste  (No.  1,)  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  cut  it  into  rounds  with  a  cutter,  about  four 
inches  over,  lay  on  each  with  a  spoon  a  small  quantity  of  the 
mixture ;  close  it  round  with  the  fingers  in  the  form  of  an 
oval ;  place  the  join  underneath ;  press  it  flat  with  the  hand ; 
sift  sugar  over  it,  and  bake  them  on  a  plate  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  of  a  light  colour. 

Bath  Buns.— (No.  65.) 

Rub  together  with  the  hand  one  pound  of  fine  flour,  and 
half  a  pound  of  butter ;  beat  six  eggs,  and  add  them  to  the 
flour,  &c.  with  a  table-spoonful  of  good  yest ;  mix  them  all 
together,  with  about  half  a  tea-cupful  of  milk ;  set  it  in  a 
warm  place  for  an  hour,  then  mix  in  six  ounces  of  sifted 
sugar,  and  a  few  caraway  seeds ;  mould  them  into  buns  with 
a  table-spoon,  on  a  clean  baking-plate ;  throw  six  or  eight 
caraway  comfits  on  each,  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven 
about  ten  minutes.  This  quantity  should  make  about 
eighteen. 

Sponge  Biscuits.— (No.  66.) 

Break  into  a  round-bottomed  preserving-pan*  nine  good- 
sized  eggs,  with  one  pound  of  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  some 
grated  lemon-peel ;  set  the  pan  over  a  very  slow  fire,  and 
whisk  it  till  quite  warm  (but  not  too  hot  to  set  the  eggs) ; 
remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  whisk  it  till  cold,  which 
maybe  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  stir  in  the  flour  lightly  with 
a  spattle ;  previous  to  which,  prepare  the  sponge  frame  as 
follows : — Wipe  them  well  out  with  a  clean  cloth,  rub  the 
insides  with  a  brush  dipped  in  butter,  which  has  been  cla- 

*  A  wide-mouthed  earthen  pan,  made  quite  hot  in  the  oven,  or  on  a  fire,  will 
be  a  good  substitute. 


380  PASTRY,   &C. 

rifled,  and  sift  loaf  sugar  over ;  fill  the  frames  with  the  mix- 
ture ;  throw  pounded  sugar  over ;  bake  them  five  minutes  in. 
a  brisk  oven :  when  done,  take  them  from  the  frames,  and  lay 
them  on  a  sieve. 

Savoy  Cake,  or  Sponge  Cake  in  a  Mould, — (No.  67.) 

Take  nine  eggs,  their  weight  of  sugar,  and  six  of  flour, 
some  grated  lemon,  or  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  and 
half  a  gill  of  orange-flower  water,  work  them  as  in  the  last 
receipt;  put  in  the  orange-flower  water  when  you  take  it 
from  the  fire ;  be  very  careful  the  mould  is  quite  dry ;  rub  it 
all  over  the  inside  with  butter ;  put  some  pounded  sugar 
round  the  mould  upon  the  butter,  and  shake  it  well  to  get  it 
out  of  the  crevices :  tie  a  slip  of  paper  round  the  mould ;  fill 
it  three  parts  full  with  the  mixture,  and  bake  it  one  hour  in  a 
slack  oven ;  when  done,  let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
take  it  from  the  mould,  which  may  be  done  by  shaking  it 
a  little. 

Biscuit  Drops.— (No.  68.) 

Beat  well  together  in  a  pan  one  pound  of  sifted  sugar  with 
eight  eggs  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  caraway  seeds,  and  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
flour:  lay  wafer-paper  on  a  baking-plate,  put  the  mixture 
into  a  biscuit-funnel,  and  drop  it  out  on  the  paper  about  the 
size  of  half  a  crown ;  sift  sugar  over,  and  bake  them  in  a 
hot  oven. 

Savoy  Biscuits. — (No.  69. 

To  be  made  as  drop  biscuits,  omitting  the  caraways,  and 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour:  put  it  into  the  biscuit-funnel, 
and  lay  it  out  about  the  length  and  size  of  your  finger,  on 
common  shop  paper ;  strew  sugar  over,  and  bake  them  in  a 
hot  oven;  when  cold,  wet  the  backs  of  the  paper  with  a 
paste-brush  and  water :  when  they  have  lain  some  time,  take 
them  carefully  off,  and  place  them  back  to  back. 

Italian  Macaroons. — (No.  70.) 

Take  one  pound  of  Valentia  or  Jordan  almonds,  blanched, 
pound  them  quite  fine  with  the  whites  of  four  eggs ;  add  two 
pounds  and  a  half  of  sifted  loaf  sugar,  and  rub  them  well 
together  with  the  pestle ;  put  in  by  degrees  about  ten  or 
eleven  more  whites,  working  them  well  as  you  put  them  in ; 


JPASTRT,   &.C.  38 1 

but  the  best  criterion  to  go  by  in  trying  their  lightness  is  to 
bake  one  or  two,  and  if  you  find  them  heavy,  put  one  or  two 
more  whites ;  put  the  mixture  into  a  biscuit-funnel,  and  lay 
them  out  on  wafer-paper,  in  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  small 
walnut,  having  ready  about  two  ounces  of  blanched  and  dry 
almonds  cut  into  slips,  put  three  or  four  pieces  on  each,  and 
bake  them  on  wires,  or  a  baking-plate,  in  a  slow  oven. 

Obs. — Almonds  should  be  blanched  and  dried  gradually  two 
or  three  days  before  they  are  used,  by  which  means  they  will 
work  much  better,  and  where  large  quantities  are  used,  it  is 
advised  to  grind  them  in  a  mill  provided  for  that  purpose. 

Ratafia  Cakes.— (No.  71.) 

To  half  a  pound  of  blanched  bitter,  and  half  a  pound  of 
sweet,  almonds,  put  the  whites  of  four  eggs ;  beat  them  quite 
fine  in  a  mortar,  and  stir  in  two  pounds  and  a  quarter  of  loaf 
sugar,  pounded  and  sifted";  rub  them  well  together  with  the 
whites  (by  degrees)  of  nine  eggs  (try  their  lightness  as  in 
the  last  receipt) ;  lay  them  out  from  the  biscuit-funnel  on 
cartridge-paper,  in  drops  about  the  size  of  a  shilling,  and 
bake  them  in  a  middling-heated  oven,  of  a  light  brown 
colour,  and  take  them  from  the  papers  as  soon  as  cold. 

N.B.  A  smaller  pipe  must  be  used  in  the  funnel  than  for 
other  articles. 

Almond  Sponge  Cake.— (No.  72.) 

Pound  in  a  mortar  one  pound  of  blanched  almonds  quite 
fine,  with  the  whites  of  three  eggs ;  then  put  in  one  pound  of 
sifted  loaf  sugar,  some  grated  lemon-peel,  and  the  yelks  of 
fifteen  eggs — work  them  well  together :  beat  up  to  a  solid 
froth  the  whites  of  twelve  eggs,  and  stir  them  into  the  other 
ingredients  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted  dry  flour  : 
prepare  a  mould  as  at  No.  67 ;  put  in  the  mixture,  and  bake 
it  an  hour  in  a  slow  oven :  take  it  carefully  from  the  mould, 
and  set  it  on  a  sieve. 

Ratafia  Cake.— (No.  73.) 

To  be  made  as  above,  omitting  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
sweet,  and  substituting  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bitter  almonds. 

Diet  Bread  CM*.— (No.  74.) 

Boil,  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  one  pound  and  a  half  of  lump 
sugar ;  have  ready  one  pint  of  eggs,  three  parts  yelks,  in  a 


382  PASTRY,    &C. 

pan;  pour  in  the  sugar,  and  whisk  it  quick  till  cold,  or  about 
a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then  stir  in  two  pounds  of  sifted  flour ; 
case  the  inside  of  square  tins  with  white  paper ;  fill  them 
three  parts  full ;  sift  a  little  sugar  over,  and  bake  it  in  a  warm 
oven,  and  while  hot  remove  them  from  the  moulds. 

Orange  Gingerbread. — (No.  75.) 

Sift  two  pounds  and  a  quarter  of  fine  flour,  and  add  to  it  a 
pound  and  three  quarters  of  treacle,  six  ounces  of  candied 
orange-peel  cut  small,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  moist 
sugar,  one  ounce  of  ground  ginger,  and  one  ounce  of  allspice : 
melt  to  an  oil  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter ;  mix  the 
whole  well  together,  and  lay  it  by  for  twelve  hours ;  roll  it 
out  with  as  little  flour  as  possible,  about  half  an  inch  thick ; 
cut  it  into  pieces  three  inches  long  and  two  wide ;  mark  them 
in  the  form  of  checkers  with  the  back  of  a  knife;  put  them 
on  a  baking-plate  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  apart ;  rub  them 
over  with  a  brush  dipped  into  the  yelk  of  an  egg  beat  up 
with  a  tea-cupful  of  milk ;  bake  it  in  a  cool  oven  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour :  when  done,  wash  them  slightly  over 
again,  divide  the  pieces  with  a  knife  (as  in  baking  they  will 
run  together). 

Gingerbread  Nuts.—\No.  76.) 

To  two  pounds  of  sifted  flour,  put  two  pounds  of  treacle, 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  moist  sugar,  half  a  pound  of 
candied  orange-peel  cut  small,  one  ounce  and  a  half  of 
ground  ginger,  one  ounce  of  ground  caraways,  and  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  oiled :  mix  all  well  together, 
and  set  it  by  some  time ;  then  roll  it  out  in  pieces  about  the 
size  of  a  small  walnut ;  lay  them  in  rows  on  a  baking-plate  ; 
dress  them  flat  with  the  hand,  and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven 
about  ten  minutes. 

Plain  Buns.— (No.  77.) 

To  four  pounds  of  sifted  flour  put  one  pound  of  good  moist 
sugar;  make  a  cavity  in  the  centre,  and  stir  in  a  gill  of  good 
yest,  a  pint  of  lukewarm  milk,  with  enough  of  the  flour  to 
make  it  the  thickness  of  cream ;  cover  it  over,  and  let  it  lie 
two  hours ;  then  melt  to  an  oil  (but  not  hot)  one  pound  of 
butter,  stir  it  into  the  other  ingredients,  with  enough  warm 
milk  to  make  it  a  soft  paste ;  throw  a  little  flour  over,  and  let 
them  lie  an  hour ;  have  ready  a  baking-platter  rubbed  over 
with  butter ;  mould  with  the  hand  the  dough  into  buns,  about 


PASTRY,    &C.  383 

the  size  "of  a  large  egg ;  lay  them  in  rows  full  three  inches 
apart ;  set  them  in  a  warm  place  for  half  an  hour,  or  till  they 
have  risen  to  double  their  size ;  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  of  a 
good  colour,  and  wash  them  over  with  a  brush  dipped  into 
milk  when  drawn  from  the  oven. 

Cross  Buns.— (No.  78.) 

To  the  above  mixture  put  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  ground 
allspice,  cinnamon,  and  mace,  mixed ;  and  when  half  proved, 
press  the  form  of  a  cross  with  a  tin  mould  (made  for  the  pur- 
pose) in  the  centre,  and  proceed  as  above. 

Seed  Buns.— (No.  79.) 

Take  two  pounds  of  plain  bun  dough  (No.  77),  and  mix  in 
one  ounce  of  caraway  seeds;  butter  the  insides  of  small 
tart-pans ;  mould  the  dough  into  buns,  and  put  one  in  each 
pan ;  set  them  to  rise  in  a  warm  place ;  and  when  sufficiently 
proved,  ice  them  with  the  white  of  an  egg  beat  to  a  froth,  and 
laid  on  with  a  paste-brush ;  some  pounded  sugar  upon  that, 
and  dissolve  it  with  water  splashed  from  the  brush:  bake 
them  in  a  warm  oven  about  ten  minutes. 

Plum  Buns.— (No.  80.) 

To  two  pounds  of  No.  77  mixture,  put  half  a  pound  of  cur- 
rants, a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  candied  orange-peel  cut  into 
small  pieces,  half  a  nutmeg  grated,  half  an  ounce  of  mixed 
spice,  such  as  allspice,  cinnamon,  &c. :  mould  them  into 
buns  ;  jag  them  round  the  edge  with  a  knife,  and  proceed  as 
with  plain  buns,  No.  77. 

Orgeat.— (No.  81.) 

Pound  very  fine  one  pound  of  Jordan,  and  one  ounce  of 
bitter,  almonds,  in  a  marble  mortar,  with  half  a  gill  of  orange- 
flower  water  to  keep  them  from  oiling ;  then  mix  with  them 
one  pint  of  rose  and  one  pint  of  spring-water ;  rub  it  through 
a  tamis  cloth  or  lawn  sieve,  till  the  almonds  are  fluite  dry, 
which  will  reduce  the  quantity  to  about  a  quart :  have  ready 
three  pints  of  clarified  sugar  or  water,  and  boil  it  to  a  crack 
(which  may  be  known  by  dipping  your  fingers  into  the  sugar, 
and  then  into  cold  water ;  and  if  you  find  the  sugar  to  crack 
in  moving  your  finger,  it  has  boiled  enough);  put  in  the 
almonds ;  boil  it  one  minute,  and  when  cold  put  it  into  small 
bottles  close  corked ;  a  table-spoonful  of  which  will  be  suffi- 
cient for  a  tumbler  of  water :  shake  the  bottle  before  using. 


384  PASTRY,    &C. 

Obs. — If  the  orgeat  is  for  present  use,  the  almonds  may  be 
pounded  as  above,  and  mixed  with  one  quart  of  water,  one 
quart  of  milk,  a  pint  of  capillaire  or  clarified  sugar,  rubbed 
through  a  tamis  or  fine  sieve,  and  put  into  decanters  for  use. 

Baked  Pears.— (No.  82.) 

Take  twelve  large  baking  pears ;  pare  and  cut  them  into 
halves,  leaving  the  stem  about  half  an  inch  long ;  take  out 
the  core  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  and  place  them  close  toge- 
ther in  a  block-tin  saucepan,  the  inside  of  which  is  quite 
bright,  with  the  cover  to  fit  quite  close ;  put  to  them  the  rind 
of  a  lemon  cut  thin,  with  half  its  juice,  a  small  stick  of  cin- 
namon, and  twenty  grains  of  allspice;  cover  them  with 
spring-water,  and  allow  one  pound  of  loaf-sugar  to  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  water:  cover  them  up  close,  and  bake  them  for 
six  hours  in  a  very  slow  oven :  they  will  be  quite  tender,  and 
of  a  bright  colour. 

Obs. — Prepared  cochineal  is  generally  used  for  colouring 
the  pears ;  but  if  the  above  is  strictly  attended  to,  it  will  be 
found  to  answer  best. 

To  dry  Apples.— (No.  83.) 

Take  biffins,  or  orange  or  lemon-pippins;  the  former 
are  the  best;  choose  the  clearest  rinds,  and  without  any 
blemishes ;  lay  them  on  clean  straw  on  a  baking-wire ;  cover 
them  well  with  more  straw;  set  them  into  a  slow  oven;  let 
them  remain  for  four  or  five  hours ;  draw  them  out  and  rub 
them  in  your  hands,  and  press  them  very  gently,  otherwise 
you  will  burst  the  skins  ;  return  them  into  the  oven  for  about 
an  hour ;  press  them  again ;  when  cold,  if  they  look  dry,  rub 
them  over  with  a  little  clarified  sugar. 

Obs. — By  being  put  into  the  oven  four  or  five  times,  press- 
ing them  between  each  time,  they  may  be  brought  as  flat, 
and  eat  as  well,  as  the  dried  biffins  from  Norfolk. 

king,  for  Twelfth  or  Bride  Cake.— (No.  84.) 

Take  one  pound  of  double-refined  sugar,  pounded  and 
sifted  through  a  lawn  sieve ;  put  into  a  pan  quite  free  from 
grease ;  break  in  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  and  as  much  powder 
blue  as  will  lie  on  a  sixpence ;  beat  it  well  with  a  spattle  for 
ten  minutes ;  then  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  beat 
it  till  it  becomes  thick  and  transparent.  Set  the  cake  you 
intend  to  ice  in  an  oven  or  warm  place  five  minutes ;  then 
spread  over  the  top  and  sides  with  the  mixture  as  smooth  as 


PASTKY,  &C.  385 

possible.  If  for  a  wedding  cake  only,  plain  ice  it ;  if  for  a 
twelfth  cake,  ornament  it  with  gum  paste,  or  fancy  articles 
of  any  description. 

Obs. — A  good  twelfth  cake,  not  baked  too  much,  and  kept 
in  a  cool  dry  place,  will  retain  its  moisture  and  eat  well,  if 
twelve  months  old. 

To  boil  Sugar  to  Caramel.— (No.  85.) 

Break  into  a  small  copper  or  brass  pan  one  pound  of  refined 
sugar ;  put  in  a  gill  of  spring-water ;  set  it  on  a  fire ;  when  it 
boils  skim  it  quite  clean,  and  let  it  boil  quick,  till  it  comes  to  the 
degree  called  crack ;  which  may  be  known  by  dipping  a  tea- 
spoon or  skewer  into  the  sugar,  and  letting  it  drop  to  the  bottom 
of  a  pan  of  cold  water ;  and  if  it  remains  hard,  it  has  attained 
that  degree :  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  let  it 
remain  one  minute  longer  on  the  fire ;  then  set  the  pan  into 
another  of  cold  water :  have  ready  moulds  of  any  shape ;  rub 
them  over  with  sweet  oil ;  dip  a  spoon  or  fork  into  the  sugar, 
and  throw  it  over  the  mould  in  fine  threads,  till  it  is  quite 
covered :  make  a  small  handle  of  caramel,  or  stick  on  two  or 
three  small  gum  paste  rings,  by  way  of  ornament,  and  place 
it  over  small  pastry  of  any  description. 

Jl  Croquante  of  Paste.— (No.  86.) 

Roll  out  paste,  as  No.  8,  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  thick ; 
rub  over  a  plain  mould  with  a  little  fresh  butter ;  lay  on  the 
paste  very  even,  and  equally  thin  on  both  sides ;  pare  it  round 
the  rim ;  then  with  a  small  penknife  cut  out  small  pieces,  as 
fancy  may  direct,  such  as  diamonds,  stars,  circles,  sprigs, 
&c. ;  or  use  a  small  tin  cutter  of  any  shape :  let  it  lie  to  diy 
some  time,  and  bake  it  a  few  minutes  in  a  slack  oven,  of  a 
light  colour :  remove  it  from  the  mould,  and  place  it  over  a 
tart,  or  any  other  dish  of  small  pastry. 

Derby  or  Short  Cakes.— (No.  87.)     ~& 

Rub  in  with  the  hand  one  pound  of  butter  into  two  pounds 
of  sifted  flour;  put  one  pound  of  currants,  one  pound jof  good 
moist  sugar,  and  one  egg ;  mix  all  together  with  half  a  pint 
of  milk :  roll  it  out  thin,  and  cut  them  into  round  cakes  with 
a  cutter ;  lay  them  on  a  clean  baking-plate,  and  put  them  into 
a  middling-heated  oven  for  about  five  minutes. 
Kk 


PASTRY,-&C. 

£gg  and  Ham  Parties.— (No.  88.) 

Cut  a  slice  of  bread  two  inches  thick,  from  the  most  solid 
of  a  stale  quartern  loaf:  have  ready  a  tin  round  cutter, 
two  inches  diameter  j  cut  out  four  or  five  pieces,  then  take  a 
cutter  two  sizes  smaller,  ptiess  it  nearly  through  the  larger 
pieces,  then  remove  with  a  small  knife  the  bread  from  the 
inner  circle  :  have  ready  a  large  stew-pan  full  of  boiling  lard ; 
fry  them  of  a  light-brown  colour,  drain  them  dry  with  a  clean 
cloth,  and  set  them  by  till  wanted ;  then  take  half  a  pound 
of  lean  ham,  mince  it  small ;  add  to  it  a  gill  of  good  brown 
sauce ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  a  few  minutes,  and  put  a  small' 
quantity  of  Cayenne  pepper  and  lemon-juice :  fill  the  shapes 
with  the  mixture,  and  lay  a  poached  egg  (No.  546)  upon  each. 

Damson,  or  other  Plum  Cheese. — (No.  89.) 

Take  damsons  that  have  been  preserved  without  sugar ; 
pass  them  through  a  sieve,  to  take  out  the  skins  and  stones. 
To  every  pound  of  pulp  of  fruit  put  half  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar, 
broke  small ;  boil  them  together  till  it  becomes  quite  stiff; 
pour  it  into  four  common-sized  dinner  plates,  rubbed  with  a 
little  sweet  oil ;  put  it  into  a  warm  place  to  dry,  and'  when, 
quite  firm,  take  it  from  the  plate,  and  cut  it  into  any  shape 
you  choose. 

N.B.  Damson  cheese  is  generally  used  in  desserts. 

Barley  Sugar. — (No.  90.) 

Clarify,  as  No.  475,  three  pounds  of  refined  sugar ;  boil  it 
to  the  degree  of  cracked  (which  may  be  ascertained  by  dip- 
ping a  spoon  into  the  sugar,  and  then  instantly  into  cold 
water,  and  if  it  appears  brittle,  it  is  boiled  enough) ;  squeeze 
in  a  small  tea-spoonful  of  the  juice,  and  four  drops  of  essence 
of  lemon,  and  let  it  boil  up  once  or  twice,  and  set  it  by  a  few 
minutes  :  have  ready  a  marble  slab,  or  smooth  stone,  rubbed 
over  with  sweet  oil ;  pour  over  the  sugar ;  cut  it  into  long 
stripes  with  a  large  pair  of  scissors ;  twist  it  a  little,  and 
when  cold,  keep  it  from  the  air  m  tin  boxes  or  canisters. 

N.B.  A-  few  drops  of  essence  of  ginger,  instead  of  lemon, 
will  mak«  what  is  called  ginger  barley  sugar. 

Barley  Sugar  £>rops.—(No.  91.) 

To  be  made  as  the  last  receipt.  Have  ready,  by  the  time 
the  sugar  is  boiled  sufficiently,  a  large  sheet  of  paper,  with  a 
smooth  layer  of  sifted  loaf  sugar  on  it ;  put  the  boiled  "sugar 


PASTRY,    &C.  387 

ihto  a  ladle  that  has  a  fine  lip;  pour  it  out,  in  drops  not  larger 
than  a  shilling,  on  to  the  sifted  sugar ;  when  cold,  fold  them 
tip  separately  in  white  paper. 

N.B.  Some  use  an  oiled  marble  slab  instead  of  the  sifted 
sugar. 

Raspberry  Jam.— (No.  92.) 

Rub  fresh-gathered  raspberries,  taken  on  a  dry  day,  thf  ough 
a  wicker  sieve ;  to  one  pint  of  the  pulp  put  one  pound  of 
loaf  sugar,  broke  small;  put  it  into  a  preserving-pan  over  it, 
brisk  fire ;  when  it  begins  to  boil,  skim  it  well,  and  stir  it 
twenty  minutes ;  put  into  small  pots  ;  cut  white  paper  to  the 
size  of  the  top  of  the  pot ;  dip  them  in  brandy,  and  put  them 
Over  the  jam  when  cold,  with  a  double  paper  tied  over  the  pot. 

Strawberry  jam  is  made  the  same  way,  and  the  scarlets 
are  most  proper  for  that  purpose* 

Apricot,  or  any  Plum  Jam. — (No.  93.) 

After  taking  away  the  stones  from  the  apricots,  and  cut- 
ting out  any  blemishes  they  may  have  ;  put  them  over  a  slow 
fire,  in  a  clean  stew-pan,  with  half  a  pint  of  water ;  when 
scalded,  rub  them  through  a  hair-sieve :  to  every  pound  of 
pulp  put  one  pound  of  sifted  loaf-sugar ;  put  it  into  a  pre- 
serving-pan over  a  brisk  fire,  and  when  it  boils  skim  it  well, 
and  throw  in  the  kernels  of  the  apricots,  and  half  an  ounce 
of  bitter  almonds,  blanched ;  boil  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour  fast, 
and  stirring  it  all  the  time ;  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  fill 
it  into  pots,  and  cover  them  as  at  No.  92. 

N.B.  Green  gages  or  plums  may  be  done  in  the  same  way, 
omitting  the  kernels  or  almonds. 

Lemon  Chips. — (No.  94.) 

Take  large  smooth-rinded  Malaga  lemons ;  race  or  cut  off 
their  peel  into  chips  with  a  small  knife  (this  will  require 
some  practice  to  do  it  properly) ;  throw  them  into  salt  and 
water  till  next  day ;  have  ready  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  throw 
theiri  in  and  boil  them  tender.  Drain  them  well ;  after  having 
lain  some  time  in  water  to  cool,  put  them  in  an  earthen  pan* 
pour1  over  enough  boiling  clarified  sugar  to  cover  them,  and 
then  let  them  lie  two  days;  then  strain  the  syrup,. put  mor% 
sugar,  and  reduce  it  by  boiling  till  the  syrup  is  quite  thick  j 
put  in  the  chips*  and  simmer  them  a  few  minutes,  and  set: 
them  by  for  two  days :  repeat  it  once  moire }  lei  them  be  two 
flays  longer,  and  they  will  be  fit  to  tttndy,  which  must  fee 


388  PASTRY,   &C. 

done  as  follows :  take  four  pints  of  clarified  sugar,  which  will 
be  sufficient  for  six  pounds  of  chips,  boil  it  to  the  degree  of 
blown  (which  may  be  known  by  dipping  the  skimmer  into  the 
sugar,  and  blowing  strongly  through  the  holes  of  it ;  if  little 
bladders  appear,  it  has  attained  that  degree) ;  and  when  the 
chips  are  thoroughly  drained  and  wiped  on  a  clean  cloth,  put 
them  into  the  syrup,  stirring  them  about  with  the  skimmer 
till  you  see  the  sugar  become  white ;  then  take  them  out  with 
two  forks ;  shake  them  lightly  into  a  wire  sieve,  and  set  them 
into  a  stove,  or  in  a  warm  place  to  dry. 
N.B.  Orange  chips  are  done  in  the  same  way. 

Dried  Cherries.— (No.  95.) 

Take  large  Kentish  cherries,  not  too  ripe ;  pick  off  the 
stalks,  and  take  out  the  stones  with  a  quill,  cut  nearly  as  for 
a  pen :  to  three  pounds  of  which  take  three  pounds  or  pints 
of  clarified  sugar — (see  No.  475,)  boil  it  to  the  degree  of 
blown  (for  which  see  last  receipt) ;  put  in  the  cherries,  give 
them  a  boil,  and  set  them  by  in  an  earthen  pan  till  the  next 
day ;  then  strain  the  syrup,  add  more  sugar,  and  boil  it  of  a 
good  consistence;  put  the  cherries  in,  and  boil  them  five 
minutes,  and  set  them  by  another  day :  repeat  the  boiling 
two  more  days,  and  when  wanted,  drain  them  some  time, 
and  lay  them  on  wire  sieves  to  dry  in  a  stove,  or  nearly  cold 
oven. 

Green  Gages  preserved  in  Syrup. — (No.  96.) 

Take  the  gages  when  nearly  ripe ;  cut  the  stalks  about 
half  an  inch  from  the  fruit ;  put  them  into  cold  water,  with  a 
lump  of  alum  about  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  and  set  them  on  a  slow 
fire  till  they  come  to  a  simmer :  take  them  from  the  fire,  and 
put  them  into  cold  water ;  drain,  and  pack  them  close  into  a 
preserving-pan ;  pour  over  them  enough  clarified  sugar  to 
cover  them ;  simmer  them  two  or  three  minutes ;  set  them 
by  in  an  earthen  pan  till  next  day,  when  drain  the  gages,  and 
boil  the  syrup  with  more  sugar,  till  quite  thick ;  put  in  the 
gages,  and  simmer  them  three  minutes  more,  and  repeat  it, 
for  two  days ;  then  boil  clarified  sugar  to  a  blow,  as  at  No. 
94,  place  the  gages  into  glasses,  and  pour  the  syrup  over, 
and,  when  cold,  tie  over  a  bladder,  and  upon  that  a  leather ; 
and  should  you  want  any  for  drying,  drain  and  dry  them  on  a 
wire  sieve  in  a  stove  or  slow  oven. 

Apricots  or  egg  plums  may  be  done  in  the  same  way. 


PASTRY,  &,C.  389 

To  preserve  Ginger. — (No.  97.) 

Take  green  ginger,  pare  it  neatly  with  a  sharp  knife; 
throw  it  into  a  pan  of  cold  water  as  it  is  pared,  to  keep  it 
white ;  when  you  have  sufficient,  boil  it  till  tender,  changing 
the  water  three  times ;  each  time  put  it  into  cold  water  to 
take  out  the  heat  or  spirit  of  the  ginger ;  when  tender,  throw 
it  into  cold  water :  for  seven  pounds  of  ginger,  clarify  eight 
pounds  of  refined  sugar,  see  No.  475 ;  when  cold,  drain  the 
ginger,  and  put  it  in  an  earthen  pan,  with  enough  of  the 
sugar,  cold,  to  cover  it,  and  let  it  stand  two  days ;  then  pour 
the  syrup  from  the  ginger  to  the  remainder  of  the  sugar ; 
boil  it  some  time,  and  when  cold,  pour  it  on  the  ginger  again, 
and  set  it  by  three  days  at  least.  Then  take  the  syrup  from 
the  ginger ;  boil  it,  and  put  it  hot  over  the  ginger ;  proceed  in 
this  way  till  you  find  the  sugar  has  entered  the  ginger,  boiling 
the  syrup,  and  skimming  off  the  scum  that  rises  each  time, 
until  the  syrup  becomes  rich  as  well  as  the  ginger. 

Obs. — If  you  put  the  syrup  on  hot  at  first,  or  if  too  rich,  the 
ginger  will  shrink,  and  not  take  the  sugar. 

N.B.  When  green  ginger  is  not  to  be  procured,  take  large 
races  of  Jamaica  ginger  boiled  several  times  in  water  till 
tender,  pare  neatly,  and  proceed  as  above. 

To  preserve  Cucumbers.— (No.  98.) 

Take  large  and  fresh-gathered  cucumbers ;  split  them  down 
and  take  out  all  the  seeds ;  lay  them  in  salt  and  water  that 
will  bear  an  egg,  three  days ;  set  them  on  a  fire  with  cold 
water,  and  a  small  lump  of  alum,  and  boil  them  a  few 
minutes,  or  till  tender ;  drain  them,  and  pour  on  them  a  thin 
syrup ;  let  them  lie  two  days ;  boil  the  syrup  again,  and  put 
it  over  the  cucumbers ;  repeat  it  twice  more ;  then  have  ready 
some  fresh  clarified  sugar,  boiled  to  a  blow  (see  No.  94) ; 
put  in  the  cucumbers,  and  simmer  it  five  minutes ;  set  it  by 
till  next  day ;  boil  the  syrup  and  cucumbers  again,  and  set 
them  in  glasses  for  use. 

Preserved  Fruit,  without  Sugar.— (No.  99.) 

Take  damsons  when  not  too  ripe ;  pick  off  the  stalks,  and 
put  them  into  wide-mouthed  glass  bottles,  taking  care  not  to 
put  in  any  but  what  are  whole,  and  without  blemish ;  shake 
them  well  down  (otherwise  the  bottles  will  not  be  half  ful) 
when  done) ;  stop  the  bottles  with  new  soft  corks,  not  too 
tight ;  set  them  into  a  very  slow  oven  (nearly  cold)  four  or 
five  hours:  the  slower  they  are  done  the  better;  when  thev 


390  BREAD. 

begin  to  shrink  in  the  bottles,  it  is  a  sure  sign  that  the  fruii 
is  thoroughly  warm :  take  them  out,  and  before  they  are  cold, 
drive  in  the  corks  quite  tight ;  set  them  in  a  bottle-rack  or 
basket,  with  the  mouth  downwards,  and  they  will  keep  good 
several  years. 

Green  gooseberries,  morello  cherries,  currants,  green 
gages,  or  bullace,  may  be  done  the  same  way. 

Obs.—lf  the  corks  are  good,  and  fit  well,  there  will  be  no 
occasion  for  cementing  them ;  but  should  bungs  be  used,  it 
will  be  necessary. 

Bread.— (No.  100.) 

Put  a  quartern  of  flour  into  a  large  basin,  with  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  salt ;  make  a  hole  in  the  middle ;  then  put  in  a 
basin  four  table-spoonfuls  of  good  yest;  stir  in  a  pint  of 
milk,  lukewarm;  put  it  in  the  hole  of  the  flour;  stir  it  just 
to  make  it  of  a  thin  batter ;  then  strew  a  little  flour  over  the 
top ;  then  set  it  on  one  side  of  the  fire,  and  cover  it  over : 
let  it  stand  till  the  next  morning;  then  make  it  into  dough; 
add  half  a  pint  more  of  warm  milk ;  knead  it  for  ten  minutes, 
and  then  set  it  in  a  warm  place  by  the  fire  for  one  hour  and 
a  half;  then  knead  it  again,  and  it  is  ready  either  for  loaves 
or  bricks :  bake  them  from  one  hour  and  a  half  to  t\vo  hours, 
according  to  the  size. 

French  Bread  and  Rolls.— (No.  100*.) 

Take  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk ;  make  it  quite  warm ;  half 
a  pint  of  small-beer  yest ;  add  sufficient  flour  to  make  it  as 
thick  as  batter ;  put  it  into  a  pan ;  cover  it  over,  and  keep  it 
warm :  when  it  has  risen  as  high  as  it  will,  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  warm  water,  and  half  an  ounce  of  salt, — mix  them  well 
together ; — rub  into  a  little  flour  two  ounces  of  butter ;  then 
make  your  dough,  not  quite  so  stiff  as  for  your  bread ;  let  it 
stand  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  and  it  will  be  ready  to 
make  into  rolls,  &c. :  let  them  stand  till  they  have  risen,  and 
bake  them  in  a  quick  oven. 

SALLY  LUNN.—- Tea  Cakes.— (No.  101.) 

Take  one  pint  of  milk  quite  warm,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
thick  small-beer  yest ;  put  them  into  a  pan  with  flour  suffi- 
cient to  make  it  as  thick  as  batter,— cover  it  over,  and  let  it 
stand  till  it  has  risen  as  high  as  it  will,  i.  e.  about  two  hours  • 
add  two  ounces  of  lump  sugar,  dissolved  in  a  quarter  of  a 


BREAD.  391 

of  warm  milk,*  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  rubbed 
jnto  your  flour  very  fine ;  then  make  your  dough  the  same 
,as  for  French  rolls,  &c. ;  and  let  it  stand  half  an  hour ;  thea 
make  up  your  cakes,  and  put  them  on  tins :  when  they  have 
stood  to  rise,  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven. 

Care  should  be  taken  never  to  put  your  yest  to  water  or 
milk  too  hot,  or  too  cold,  as  either  extreme  will  destroy  the 
fermentation.  In  summer  it  should  be  lukewarm,  in  winter 
a  little  warmer,  and  in  very  cold  weather,  warmer  still. 

When  it  has  first  risen,  if  you  are  uot  prepared,  it  will  Jiot 
hurt  to  stand  an  hour. 

Muffins.— (No.  102.) 

Take  one  pint  of  milk  quite  warm,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  thick  small-beer  yest;  strain  them  into  a  pan,  and  add 
sufficient  flour  to  make  it  like  a  batter ;  cover  it  over,  and 
let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  it  has  risen ;  then  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  warm  milk,  and  one  ounce  of  butter 
rubbed  in  some  flour  quite  fine;  mix  them  well  together: 
then  add  sufficient  flour  to  make  it  into  dcragh,  cover  it  over, 
and  let  it  stand  half  an  hour ;  then  work  it  up  again,  and 
break  it  into  small  pieces :  rail  them  up  quite  round,  an<J 
cover  them  over  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  then  bake  them. 

Crumpets.— (No.  103.) 

The  same :  instead  of  making  the  mixture  into  dough,  add 
only  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  thick  batter,  and  when  it  has 
.stood  a  quarter  of  an  hour  it  will  be  ready  to  bake. 

Muffins  and  crumpets  bake  best  on  a  stove  with  an  iron 
plate  fixed  on  the  top ;  but  they  will  also  bake  in  a  frying- 
pan,  taking  -care  the  fire  is  not  too  fierce,  and  turning  them 
when  lightly  browned, 

Yorkshire  Cakes.— (No.  104.) 

Take  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk  quite  warm,  and  a  quarter  of 
a  pint  of  thick  small-beer  yest ;  mix  them  well  together  in  a 
pan  with  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  thick  batter ;  let  it  stand 
in  a  warm  place  covered  over  until  it  has  risen  as  high  as  it 
will ;  rub  six  ounces  of  butter  into  some  flour  till  it  is  quite 
fine ;  then  break  three  eggs  into  your  pan  with  the  flour  and 
butter ;  mix  them  well  together ;  then  add  sufficient  flour  to 
make  it  into  a  dough,  and  let  it  stand  a  quarter  of  an  hour; 

*  If  you  do  not  mind  the  expense,  the  cake  will  be  much  lighter  if,  instead  of  tbt 
Xiilk.  you  put  four  eggg. 


392  PUDDINGS   A^'D   PIES. 

then  work  it  up  again,  and  break  it  into  pieces  about  the  size 
of  an  egg,  or  larger,  as  you  may  fancy ;  roll  them  round  and 
smooth  with  your  hand,  and  put  them  on  tins,  and  let  them 
stand  covered  over  with  a  light  piece  of  flannel. 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  PUDDINGS  AND  PIES. 

THE  quality  of  the  various  articles  employed  in  the  com- 
position of  puddings  and  pies  varies  so  much,  that  two  pud- 
dings, made  exactly  according  to  the  same  receipt,  will  be 
so  different*  one  would  hardly  suppose  they  were  made  by 
the  same  person,  and  certainly  not  with  precisely  the  same 
quantities  of  the  (apparently)  same  ingredients.  Flour  fresh 
ground,  pure  new  milk,  fresh  laid  eggs,  fresh  butter,  fresh 
suet,  &c.  will  make  a  very  different  composition,  than  when 
kept  till  each  article  is  half  spoiled. 

Plum  puddings,  when  boiled,  if  hung  up  in  a  cool  place  in 
the  cloth  they  are  boiled  in,  will  keep  good  some  months ; 
when  wanted,  take  them  out  of  the  cloth,  and  put  them  into 
a  clean  cloth,  and  as  soon  as  warmed  through,  they  are  ready. 

MEM. — In  composing  these  receipts,  the  quantities  of  eggs, 
butter,  &c.  are  considerably  less  than  are  ordered  in  other 
cookery  books ;  but  quite  sufficient  for  the  purpose  of  making 
the  puddings  light  and  wholesome ; — we  have  diminished  the 
expense,  without  impoverishing  the  preparations;  and  the 
rational  epicure  will  be  as  well  pleased  with  them  as  the 
rational  economist. 

Milk,  in  its  genuine  state,  varies  considerably  in  the  quan- 
tity of  cream  it  will  throw  up,  depending  on  the  material 
with  which  the  cow  is  fed.  The  cow  that  gives  the  most 
milk  does  not  always  produce  the  most  cream,  which  varies 
fifteen  or  twenty  per  cent. 

Eggs  vary  considerably  in  size ;  in  the  following  receipts 
we  mean  the  full-sized  hen's  egg ;  if  you  have  only  pullet's 
eggs,  use  two  for  one.  Break  eggs  one  by  one  into  a  basin, 
and  not  all  into  the  bowl  together ;  because  then,  if  you  meet 
with  a  bad  one,  that  will  spoil  all  the  rest:  strain  them 
through  a  sieve  to  take  out  the  treddles. 

*  An  old  gentlewoman,  who  lived  almost  entirely  on  puddings,  told  us,  it  was  a 
long  time  before  she  could  get  them  made  uniformly  good,  till  she  made  the  following 
rule :— "  If  the  pudding  was  good,  she  let  the  cook  have  the  remainder  of  it ;  if  it  was 
not,  she  gave  it  to  her  lapdog ;"  but  as  soon  as  this  resolution  was  Known,  poor 
iittle  Bow-wow  seldom  got  the  sweet  treat  after. 


PUDDINGS  AND   PIES.  393 

N.B.  To  preserve  eggs  for  twelve  mouths,  see  N.B.  to 
No.  547.  Snow,  and  small  beer,  have  been  recommended 
by  some  economists  as  admirable  substitutes  for  eggs ;  they 
will  no  more  answer  this  purpose  than  as  substitutes  for 
sugar  or  brandy. 

Flour,  according  to  that  champion  against  adulteration, 
Mr.  Accum,  varies  in  quality  as  much  as  any  thing. 

Butter  also  varies  much  in  quality.  Salt  butter  may  be 
washed  from  the  salt,  and  then  it  will  make  very  good  pastry. 

Lard  varies  extremely  from  the  time  it  is  kept,  &c.  When 
you  purchase  it,  have  the  bladder  cut,  and  ascertain  that  it 
be  sweet  and  good. 

Suet.  Beef  is  the  best,  then  mutton  and  veal;  when  this 
is  used  in  very  hot  weather,  while  you  chop  it,  dredge  it 
lightly  with  a  little  flour. 

Beef-marrow  is  excellent  for  most  of  the  purposes  for 
which  suet  is  employed. 

Drippings,  especially  from  beef,  when  very  clean  and  nice, 
are  frequently  used  for  kitchen  crusts  and  pies,  and  for  such 
purposes  are  a  satisfactory  substitute  for  butter,  lard,  &c. 
To  clean  and  preserve  drippings,  see  No.  83. 

Currants,  previous  to  putting  them  into  the  pudding,  should 
be  plumped :  this  is  done  by  pouring  some  boiling  water  upon 
them :  wash  them  well,  and  then  lay  them  on  a  sieve  or  cloth 
before  the  fire,  pick  them  clean  from  the  stones ; — this  not 
only  makes  them  look  better,  but  cleanses  them  from  all  dirt. 

Raisins,  figs,  dried  cherries,  candied  orange  and  lemon- 
peel,  citron,  and  preserves  of  all  kinds,  fresh  fruits,  goose- 
berries, currants,  plums,  damsons,  &c.  are  added  to  batter 
and  suet  puddings,  or  enclosed  in  the  crust  ordered  for  apple 
dumplings,  and  make  all  the  various  puddings  called  by  those 
names. 

Batter  puddings  must  be  quite  smooth  and  free  from  lumps ; 
to  ensure  this,  first  mix  the  flour  with  a  little  milk,  add  the 
remainder  by  degrees,  and  then  the  other  ingredients. 

If  it  is  a  plain  pudding,  put  it  through  a  hair-sieve ;  this 
will  take  out  all  lumps  effectually. 

Batter  puddings  should  be  tied  up  tight:  if  boiled  in  a 
mould,  butter  it  first ;  if  baked,  also  butter  the  pan. 

Be  sure  the  water  boils  before  you  put  in  the  pudding;  set 
your  stew-pan  on  a  trivet  over  the  fire,  and  keep  it  steadily 
boiling  all  the  time ;— if  set  upon  the  fire,  the  pudding  often 
burns. 

Be  scrupulously  careful  that  your  pudding-cloth  is  perfectly 
sweet  and  clean;  wash  it  without  any  soap,  unless  very 
greasy ;  then  rinse  it  thoroughly  in  clean  water  after,  Im- 


394  PUDDINGS   AND    PIES. 

mediately  before  you  use  it,  dip  it  in  boiling-  water ;  squeeze 
it  dry,  and  dredge  it  with  flour. 

If  your  fire  is  very  fierce,  mind  and  stir  the  puddings  every 
now  and  then  to  keep  them  from  sticking  to  the  bottom  of 
the  saucepan ;  if  in  a  mould,  this  care  is  not  so  much  re- 
quired, but  keep  plenty  of  water  in  the  saucepan. 

When  puddings  are  boiled  in  a  cloth,  it  should  be  just  dip- 
ped in  a  basin  of  cold  water,  before  you  untie  the  pudding- 
cloth,  as  that  will  prevent  it  from  sticking ;  but  when  boiled 
in  a  mould,  if  it  is  well  buttered,  they  will  turn  out  without. 
Custard  or  bread  puddings  require  to  stand  five  minutes  before 
they  are  turned  out.  .They  should  always  be  boiled  in  a 
mould  or  cups. 

Keep  your  pasteboard,  rolling-pin,  cutters,  and  tins  very 
clean:  the  least  dust  on  the  tins  and  cutters,  or  the  least 
hard  paste  on  the  rolling-pin,  will  spoil  the  whole  of  your 
labour. 

Things  used  for  pastry  or  cakes  should  not  be  used  for  an> 
other  purpose ;  be  very  careful  that  your  flour  is  dried  at  the 
fire  before  you  use  it,  for  puff  paste  or  cakes ;  if  damp  it  will 
make  them  heavy. 

In  using  butter  for  puff  paste,  you  should  take  the  greatest 
care  to  previously  work  it  well  on  the  paste-board  or  slab, 
to  get  out  all  the  water  and  buttermilk,  which  very  often 
remains  in;  when  you  have  worked  it  well  with  a  clean 
knife,  dab  it  over  with  a  soft  cloth,  and  it  is  then  ready  to  lay 
on  your  paste ;  do  not  make  your  paste  over  stiff  before  you 
put  in  your  butter. 

For  those  who  do  not  understand  making  puff  paste,  it  is 
by  far  the  best  way  to  work  the  butter  in  at  two  separate 
times,  divide  it  in  half,  and  break  the  half  in  little  bits,  and 
cover  your  paste  all  over :  dredge  it  lightly  with  flour,  then 
fold  it  over  each  side  and  ends,  roll  it  out  quite  thin,  and  then 
put  in  the  rest  of  the  butter,  fold  it,  and  roll  it  again. 
Remember  always  to  roll  puff  paste  from  you.  The  best 
made  paste,  if  not  properly  baked,  will  not  do  the  cook  any 
credit. 

Those  who  use  iron  ovens  do  not  always  succeed  in  baking- 
puff  paste,  fruit  pies,  &c.  Puff  paste  is  often  spoiled  by 
baking  it  after  fruit  pies,  in  an  iron  oven.  This  may  be 
easily  avoided,  by  putting  two  or  three  bricks  that  are  quite 
even  into  the  oven  before  it  is  first  set  to  get  hot.  This  will 
not  only  prevent  the  syrup  from  boiling  put  of  the  pies,  but 
also  prevent  a  very  disagreeable  smell  in  the  kitchen  and 
house,  and  almost  answers  the  same  purpose  as  a  brick 
oven. 


PUDDINGS   AND    PIES. 

College  Puddings.— (No.  105.) 

Beat  four  eggs,  yelks  and  whites  together,  in  a  quart  basin, 
with  two  ounces  of  flour,  half  a  nutmeg,  a  little  ginger,  and 
three  ounces  of  sugar;  pounded  loaf  sugar  is  best.  Beat 
it  into  a  smooth  batter ;  then  add  six  ounces  of  suet,  chopped 
fine,  six  of  currants,  well  washed  and  picked ;  mix  it  all  well 
together ;  a  glass  of  brandy  or  white  wine  win  improve  it. 
These  puddings  are  generally  fried  in  butter  or  lard;  but  they 
are  much  nicer  baked  in  an  oven  in  patty-pans?  twenty 
minutes  will  bake  them  :  if  fried,  fry  them  till  they  are  of  a 
nice  light  brown,  and  when  fried,  roll  them  in  a  little  flour. 
You  may  add  one  ounce  of  orange  or  citron,  minced  very 
fine  ;  when  you  bake  them,  add  one  more  egg,  or  two  spoon- 
fuls of  milk.  Serve  them  up  with  white  wine  sauce* 

Rice  Puddings  baked,  or  boiled.— (No.  106.) 

Wash  in  cold  water  and  pick  very  clean  six  ounces  of  rice, 
put  it  in  a  quart  stew-pan  three  parts  filled  with  cold  water, 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  five  minutes ;  pour  away  the 
water,  and  put  in  one  quart  of  milk,  a  roll  of  lemon  peel,  and  a 
bit  of  cinnamon ;  let  it  boil  gently  till  the  rice  is  quite  tender ; 
it  will  take  at  least  one  hour  and  a  quarter;  be  careful  to  stir 
it  every  five  minutes ;  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  stir  in  an  ounce 
and  a  half  of  fresh  butter,  and  beat  up  three  eggs  on  a  plate, 
a  salt-spoonful  of  nutmeg,  two  ounces  of  sugar ;  put  it  into 
the  pudding,  and  stir  it  till  it  is  quite  smooth ;  line  a  pie-dish 
big  enough  to  hold  it  with  puff  paste,  notch  it  round  the  edge, 
put  in  your  pudding,  and  bake  it  three  quarters  of  an  hour : 
this  will  be  a  nice  firm  pudding. 

If  you  like  it  to  eat  more  like  custard,  add  one  more  egg, 
and  half  a  pint  more  milk ;  it  will  be  better  a  little  thinner 
when  boiled ;  one  hour  will  boil  it.  If  you  like  it  in  little 
puddings,  butter  small  tea-cups,  and  either  bake  or  boil  them, 
half  an  hour  will  do  either :  you  may  vary  the  pudding  by 
putting  in  candied  lemon  or  orange-rpeel,  minced  very  fine, 
or  dried  cherries,  or  three  ounces  of  currants,  or  raisins,  or 
apples  minced  fine. 

If  the  puddings  are  baked  or  boiled,  serve  them  with  white- 
wine  sauce,  or  butter  and  sugar. 

Ground  Rice  Pudding.— (No*  1©7.) 

Put  four  ounces  of  ground  rice  into  a  stew-pan,  and  by 
degrees  stir  in  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk;  set  it  on  tlie  fire^ 
with  a  roll  of  lemon  and  a  bit  of  cinnamon ;  keep  . 


396  PUDDINGS  AND    PIES. 

it  till  it  boils ;  beat  it  to  a  smooth  batter ;  then  set  it  on  the 
trivet,  where  it  will  simmer  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ; 
then  beat  three  eggs  on  a  plate,  stir  them  into  the  pudding 
with  two  ounces  of  sugar  and  two  drachms  of  nutmeg,  take 
out  the  lemon-peel  and  cinnamon,  stir  it  all  well  together, 
line  a  pie-dish  with  thin  puff  paste  (No.  1  of  receipts  for 
pastry),  big  enough  to  hold  it,  or  butter  the  dish  well,  and 
bake  it  half  an  hour ;  if  boiled,  it  will  take  one  hour  in  a 
mould  well  buttered ;  three  ounces  of  currants  may  be  added. 

Rice  Snow  Balls.— (No.  108.) 

Wash  and  pick  half  a  pound  of  rice  very  clean,  put  it  on 
in  a  saucepan  with  plenty  of  water ;  when  it  boils  let  it  boil 
ten  minutes,  drain  it  on  a  sieve  till  it  is  quite  dry,  and  then 
pare  six  apples,  weighing  two  ounces  and  a  half  each.  Divide 
the  rice  into  six  parcels,  in  separate  cloths,  put  one  apple  in 
each,  tie  it  loose,  and  boil  it  one  hour ;  serve  it  with  sugar 
and  butter,  or  wine  sauce. 

Rice  Blancmange.— (No.  109.) 

Put  a  tea-cupful  of  whole  rice  into  the  least  water  possi- 
ble, till  it  almost  bursts ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  good  milk 
or  thin  cream,  and  boil  it  till  it  is  quite  a  mash,  stirring  it  the 
whole  time  it  is  on  the  fire,  that  it  may  not  burn ;  dip  a  shape 
in  cold  water,  and  do  not  dry  it ;  put  in  the  rice,  and  let  it 
stand  until  quite  cold,  when  it  will  come  easily  out  of  the 
shape.  This  dish  is  much  approved  of;  it  is  eaten  with 
cream  or  custard,  and  preserved  fruits ;  raspberries  are  best. 
It  should  be  made  the  day  before  it  is  wanted,  that  it  may 
get  firm. 

This  blancmange  will  eat  much  nicer,  flavoured  with 
spices,  lemon-peel,  &c.,  and  sweetened  with  a  little  loaf 
sugar,  add  it  with  the  milk,  and  take  out  the  lemon-peel 
before  you  put  in  the  mould. 

Save-all  Pudding.— (No.  110.) 

Put  any  scraps  of  bread  into  a  clean  saucepan ;  to  about 
a  pound,  put  a  pint  of  milk ;  set  it  on  the  trivet  till  it  boils ; 
beat  it  up  quite  smooth ;  then  break  in  three  eggs,  three  ounces 
of  sugar,  with  a  little  nutmeg,  ginger,  or  allspice,  and  stir  it 
all  well  together.  Butter  a  dish  big  enough  to  hold  it,  put  in 
t)ie  pudding,  and  have  ready  two  ounces  of  suet  chopped 
very  fine,  strew  it  over  the  top  of  the  pudding,  and  bake  it 


PUDDINGS   AND   PIES.  397 

three  quarters  ot  an  hour;  four  ounces  of  currants  will 
make  it  much  better. 

Batter  Pudding,  baked  or  boiled.— (No.  111.) 

Break  three  eggs  in  a  basin  with  as  much  salt  as  will  lie 
On  a  sixpence ;  beat  them  well  together,  and  then  add  four 
ounces  of  flour ;  beat  it  into  a  smooth  batter,  and  by  degrees 
add  half  a  pint  of  milk :  have  your  saucepan  ready  boiling, 
and  butter  an  earthen  mould  well,  put  the  pudding  in,  and 
lie  it  tight  over  with  a  pudding-cloth,  and  boil  it  one  hour 
and  a  quarter.  Or,  put  it  in  a  dish  that  you  have  well  but- 
tered, and  bake  it  three  quarters  of  an  hour. 

Currants  washed  and  picked  clean,  or  raisins  stoned,  are 
good  in  this  pudding,  and  it  is  then  called  a  black  cap :  or, 
add  loaf  sugar,  and  a  little  nutmeg  and  ginger  without  the 
fruit, — it  is  very  good  that  way ;  serve  it  with  wine  sauce. 

Apple  Pudding  boiled.— (No.  112.) 

Chop  four  ounces  of  beef  suet  very  fine,  or  two  ounces  of 
butter,  lard,  or  dripping;  but  the  suet  makes  the  best  and 
lightest  crust ;  put  it  on  the  paste-board,  with  eight  ounces 
of  flour,  and  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  mix  it  well  together  with 
your  hands,  and  then  put  it  all  of  a  heap,  and  make  a  hole  in 
the  middle ;  break  one  egg  in  it,  stir  it  well  together  with 
your  finger,  and  by  degrees  infuse  as  much  water  as  will 
make  it  of  a  stiff  paste :  roll  it  out  two  or  three  times,  with 
the  rolling-pin,  and  then  roll  it  large  enough  to  receive  thir- 
teen ounces  of  apples.  It  will  look  neater  if  boiled  in  a 
basin,  well  buttered,  than  when  boiled  in  a  pudding-cloth, 
well  floured ;  boil  it  an  hour  and  three  quarters :  but  the 
surest  way  is  to  stew  the  apples  first  in  a  stew-pan,  with  a 
wine-glassful  of  water,  and  then  one  hour  will  boil  it.  Some 
people  like  it  flavoured  with  cloves  and  lemon-peel,  and 
sweeten  it  with  two  ounces  of  sugar. 

Gooseberries,  currants,  raspberries,  and  cherries,  damsons, 
and  various  plums  and  fruits,  are  made  into  puddings  with 
the  same  crust  directed  for  apple  puddings. 

Apple  Dumplings.— (No.  113.) 

Make  paste  the  same  as  for  apple  pudding,  divide  it  into 
as  many  pieces  as  you  want  dumplings,  peel  the  apples  and 
core  them,  then  roll  out  your  paste  large  enough,  and  put  in 
the  apples ;  close  it  all  round,  and  tie  them  in  pudding-cloths 
very  tight ;  one  hour  will  boil  them :  and  when  you  take  them 


398  M€KLES. 

up,  just  dip  them  in  cold  water,  and  put  them  in  a  cup  the 
size  of  the  dumpling  while  you  untie  them,  and  they  will  turn 
out  without  breaking. 

Suet  Pudding  or  Dumplings. — (Xo.  114.) 

Chop  six  ounces  of  suet  very  fine :  put  it  in  a  basin  with 
*>ix  ounces  of  flour,  two  ounces  of  bread-crumbs,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt ;  stir  it  all  well  together:  beat  two  eggs  on  a 
plate,  add  to  them  six  table-spoonfuls  of  milk,  put  it  by 
degrees  into  the  basin,  and  stir  it  all  well  together ;  divide 
it  into  six  dumplings,  and  tie  them  separate,  previously 
dredging  the  cloth  lightly  with  flour.  Boil  them  one  hour. 

This  is  very  good  the  next  day  fried  in  a  little  butter.  The 
above  will  make  a  good  pudding,  boiled  in  an  earthenware 
mould,  with  the  addition  of  one  more  egg,  a  little  more  milk, 
and  two  ounces  of  suet.  Boil  it  two  hours. 

N.B.  The  most  economical  way  of  making  suet  dump- 
lings, is  to  boil  them  without  a  cloth  in  a  pot  with  beef  or 
mutton;  no  eggs  are  then  wanted,  and  the  dumplings  are 
finite  as  light  without :  roll  them  in  flour  before  you  put  them 
mto  the  pot;  add  six  ounces  of  currants,  washed  and  picked, 
mid  you  have  currant  pudding :  or  divided  into  six  parts,  cur- 
rant dumplings ;  a  little  sugar  will  improve  them. 

Cottage  Potato  Pudding  or  Cake.— (No.  115.) 

Peel,  boil,  and  mash,  a  couple  of  pounds  of  potatoes :  beat 
them  up  into  a  smooth  batter,  with  about  three  quarters  of  a 
pint  of  milk,  two  ounces  of  moist  sugar,  and  two  or  three 
beaten  eggs.  Bake  it  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour. 
Three  ounces  of  currants  or  raisins  may  be  added.  Leave 
out  the  milk,  and  add  three  ounces  of  butter, — it  will  make  a 
very  nice  cake. 


OBSERVATIONS   ON  PICKLES. 

We  are  not  fond  of  pickles :  these  sponges  of  vinegar  are 
often  very  indigestible,  especially  in  the  crisp  state  in  which 
they  are  most  admired.  The  Indian  fashion  of  pounding 
pickles  is  an  excellent  one :  we  recommend  those  who  havf 
any  regard  for  their  stomach,  yet  still  wish  to  indulge  their 
tongue,  instead  of  eating  pickles,  which  are  really  merely 


PICKLES.  399 

vehicles  for  taking  a  certain  portion  of  vinegar  and  spice, 
&c.  to  use  the  flavoured  vinegars ;  such  as  burnet  (No.  399), 
horseradish  (No.  399*),  tarragon  (No.  396),  mint  (No.  397), 
cress  (Nos.  397*,  401,  403,  405*,  453,  457),  &c.;  by  combina- 
tions of  these,  a  relish  may  easily  be  composed,  exactly  in 
harmony  with  the  palate  of  the  eater. 

The  pickle  made  to  preserve  cucumbers,  &c.  is  generally 
so  strongly  impregnated  with  garlic,  mustard,  and  spice,  &c. 
that  the  original  flavour  of  the  vegetables  is  quite  over- 
powered; and  if  the  eater  shuts  his  eyes,  his  lingual  nerves 
will  be  puzzled  to  inform  him  whether  he  is  munching  an 
onion  or  a  cucumber,  &c.,  and  nothing  can  be  more  absurd, 
than  to  pickle  plums,  peaches,  apricots,  currants,  grapes,  &c. 

The  strongest  vinegar  must  be  used  for  pickling:  it  must 
not  be  boiled  or  the  strength  of  the  vinegar  and  spices  will  be 
evaporated.  By  parboiling  the  pickles  in  brine,  they  will  be 
ready  in  much  less  time  than  they  are  when  done  in  the  usual 
manner,  of  soaking  them  in  cold  salt  and  water  for  six  or 
eight  days.  When  taken  out  of  the  hot  brine,  let  them  get 
cold  and  quite  dry  before  you  put  them  into  the  pickle. 

To  assist  the  preservation  of  pickles,  a  portion  of  salt  is 
added;  and  for  the  same  purpose,  and  to  give  flavour,  long- 
pepper,  black  pepper,  allspice,  ginger,  cloves,  mace,  garlic, 
eschalots,  mustard,  horseradish,  and  capsicum. 

The  following  is  the  best  method  of  preparing  the  pickle, 
as  cheap  as  any,  and  requires  less  care  than  any  other  way. 

Bruise  in  a  mortar  four  ounces  of  the  above  spices ;  put 
them  into  a  stone  jar  with  a  quart  of  the  strongest  vinegar, 
stop  the  jar  closely  with  a  bung,  cover  that  with  a  bladder 
soaked  with  pickle,  set  it  on  a  trivet  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for 
three  days,  well  shaking  it  up  at  least  three  times  in  the  day; 
the  pickle  should  be  at  least  three  inches  above  the  pickles- 
The  jar  being  well  closed,  and  the  infusion  being  made  with 
a  mild  heat,  there  is  no  loss  by  evaporation. 

To  enable  the  articles  pickled  more  easily  and  speedily  to 
imbibe  the  flavour  of  the  pickle  they  are  immersed  in,  pre- 
viously to  pouring  it  on  them,  run  a  larding-pin  through  them 
in  several  places. 

The  spices,  &c.  commonly  used,  are  those  mentioned  in 
the  receipt  for  pickling  walnuts ;  which  is  also  an  excellent 
savoury  sauce  for  cold  meats. 

The  flavour  may  be  varied  ad  infinitum  by  adding  celery, 
cress-seed,  or  curry  powder  (No.  455),  or  by  taking  for  the 
liquor  any  of  the  flavoured  vinegars,  &c.  we  have  enumerated 
above,  and  see  the  receipts  between  Nos.  395  and  421. 

Pickles  should  be  kept  in  a  dry  place,  in  unglazed  earthen- 


400  PICKLES. 

ware,  or  glass  jars,  which  are  preferable,  as  you  can,  without 
opening  them,  observe  whether  they  want  filling  up:  they 
must  be  very  carefully  stopped  with  well-fitted  bungs,  and 
tied  over  as  closely  as  possible  with  a  bladder  wetted  with 
the  pickle ;  and  if  to  be  preserved  a  long  time,  after  that  is 
dry,  it  must  be  dipped  in  bottle-cement;  see  page  127. 

When  the  pickles  are  all  used,  boil  up  the  liquor  with  a 
little  fresh  spice. 

To  walnut  liquor  may  be  added  a  few  anchovies  and 
eschalots :  let  it  stand  till  it  is  quite  clear,  and  bottle  it :  thus 
you  may  furnish  your  table  with  an  excellent  savoury  keeping 
sauce  for  hashes,  made  dishes,  fish,  &c.  at  very  small  cost ; 
see  No.  439. 

Jars  should  not  be  more  than  three  parts  filled  with  the 
articles  pickled,  which  should  be  covered  with  pickle  at  least 
two  inches  above  their  surface ;  the  liquor  wastes,  and  all  of 
the  articles  pickled,  that  are  not  covered,  are  soon  spoiled. 

When  they  have  been  done  about  a  week,  open  the  jars, 
and  fill  them  up  with  pickle. 

Tie  a  wooden  spoon,  full  of  holes,  round  each  jar  to  take 
them  out  with. 

If  you  wish  to  have  gherkins,  &c.  very  green,  this  may 
be  easily  accomplished  by  keeping  them  in  vinegar,  suffi- 
ciently hot,  till  they  become  so. 

If  you  wish  cauliflowers,  onions,  &c.  to  be  white,  use  dis- 
tilled vinegar  for  them. 

To  entirely  prevent  the  mischief  arising  from  the  action 
of  the  acid  upon  the  metallic  utensils  usually  employed  to 
prepare  pickles,  the  whole  of  the  process  is  directed  to  be 
performed  in  unglazed  stone  jars. 

N.B.  The  maxim  of  "  open  your  mouth,  and  shut  your 
eyes,"  cannot  be  better  applied  than  to  pickles ;  and  the  only 
direction  we  have  to  record  for  the  improvement  of  their 
complexion,  is  the  joke  of  Dr.  Goldsmith,  "If  their  colour 
does  not  please  you,  send  'em  to  Hammersmith,  that's  the 
way  to  Turnham  Green." 

Commencing  the  list  with  walnuts,  I  must  take  this  oppor- 
tunity of  impressing  the  necessity  of  being  strictly  particular 
in  watching  the  due  season ;  for  of  all  the  variety  of  articles 
in  this  department  to  furnish  the  well-regulated  store-room, 
nothing  is  so  precarious,  for  frequently  after  the  first  week 
that  walnuts  come  in  season,  they  become  hard  and  shelled, 
particularly  if  the  season  is  a  very  hot  one ;  therefore  let  the 
prudent  housekeeper  consider  it  indispensably  necessary 
they  should  be  purchased  as  soon  as  they  first  appear  at 
market. ;  should  they  cost  a  trifle  more,  that  is  nothing  com- 


PICKLES.  401 

pared  to  the  disappointment  of  finding,  six  months  hence, 
when  you  go  to  your  pickle-jar,  expecting  a  fine  relish  for 
your  chops,  &c.  to  find  the  nuts  incased  in  a  shell,  which 
defies  both  teeth  and  steel. 

Nasturtiums  are  to  be  had  by  the  middle  of  July. 

Garlic,  from  Midsummer  to  Michaelmas. 

Eschalots,  ditto. 

Onions,  the  various  kinds  for  pickling,  are  to  be  had,  by  the 
middle  of  July,  and  for  a  month  after. 

Gherkins  are  to  be  had  by  the  middle  of  July,  and  for  a 
month  after. 

Cucumbers  are  to  be  had  by  the  middle  of  July,  and  for  a 
month  after. 

Melons  and  mangoes  are  to  be  had  by  the  middle  of  July, 
and  for  a  month  after. 

Capsicums,  green,  red,  and  yellow,  the  end  of  July,  and  fol- 
lowing month. 

Chilies,  the  end  of  July,  and  following  month.  See  Nos. 
404  and  405*,  and  No.  406. 

Love  apples,  or  tomatas,  end  of  July,  and  throughout 
August.  See  No.  443. 

Cauliflower,  for  pickling,  July  and  August. 

Artichokes,  for  pickling,  July  and  August. 

Jerusalem  artichokes,  for  pickling,  July  and  August,  and 
for  three  months  after. 

Radish  pods,  for  pickling,  July. 

French  beans,  for  pickling,  July. 

Mushrooms,  for  pickling  and  catchup,  September.  See 
No.  439. 

Red  cabbage,  August. 

White  cabbage,  September  and  October, 

Samphire,  August. 

Horseradish,  November  and  December. 

Walnuts.— (No.  116.) 

Make  a  brine  of  salt  and  water,  in  the  proportion  of  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  to  a  quart  of  water ;  put  the  walnuts 
into  this  to  soak  for  a  week ;  or  if  you  wish  to  soften  them  so 
that  they  may  be  soon  ready  for  eating,  run  a  larding-pin 
through  them  in  half  a  dozen  places — this  will  allow  the  pickle 
to  penetrate,  and  they  will  be  much  softer,  and  of  better 
flavour,  and  ready  much  sooner  than  if  not  perforated :  put 
them  into  a  stew-pan  with  such  brine,  and  give  them  a  gentle 
simmer ;  put  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain ;  then  lay  them  on  a  fish 
plate,  and  let  them  stand  in  the  air  till  they  turn  black— this 
L12 


PICKLES, 

may  take  a  couple  of  days;  put  them  into  glass,  or  unglazed 
stone  jars;  fill  these  about  three  parts  with  the  walnuts,  and 
fill  them  up  with  the  following  pickle. 

To  each  quart  of  the  strongest  vinegar  put  two  ounces  of 
black  pepper.,  one  of  ginger,  same  of  eschalots,  same  of 
salt,  half  an  ounce  of  allspice,  and  half  a  drachm  of  Cayenne. 
Put  these  into  a  stone  jar;  cover  it  with  a  bladder,  wetted 
with  pickle,  tie  over  that  some  leather,  and  set  the  jar  on  a 
trivet  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  three  days,  shaking  it  up 
three  times  a  day,  and  then  pour  it  while  hot  to  the  walnuts, 
and  cover  them  down  with  bladder  wetted  with  the  pickle, 
leather,  &c, 

Gherkins.— (No.  117.) 

Get  tnose  of  about  four  inches  long,  and  an  inch  in 
diameter,  the  crude  half-grown  little  gherkins  usually  pickled 
are  good  for  nothing.  Put  them  into  (unglazed)  stone  pans ; 
cover  them  with  a  brine  of  salt  and  water,  made  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  to  a  quart  of  water ;  cover  them 
down ;  set  them  on  the  earth  before  the  fire  for  two  or  three 
days  till  they  begin  to  turn  yellow ;  then  put  away  the  water, 
and  cover  them  with  hot  vinegar ;  set  them  again  before  the 
fire ;  keep  them  hot  till  they  become  green  (this  will  take 
eight  or  ten  days);  then  pour  off  the  vinegar,  having  ready 
to  cover  them  a  pickle  of  fresh  vinegar,  &c.,  the  same  as 
directed  in  the  preceding  receipt  for  walnuts  (leaving  out  the 
eschalots) ;  cover  them  with  a  bung,  bladder,  and  leather. 
Read  the  observations  on  pickles,  p.  487. 

Obs. — The  vinegar  the  gherkins  were  greened  in  will  make 
excellent  salad  sauce,  or  for  cold  meats.  It  is,  in  fact,  super- 
lative cucumber  vinegar. 

French  Beans — Nasturtiums,  <$-c. — (No.  118.) 

When  young,  and  most  other  small  green  vegetables,  may 
be  pickled  the  .same  way  as  gherkins. 

Beet  Roots.— (No.  119.) 

Boil  gently  till  they  are  full  three  parts  done  (this  will  take 
from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  and  a  half) ;  then  take  them 
out,  and  when  a  little  cooled,  peel  them,  and  cut  them  in 
slices  about  half  an  inch  thick.  Have  ready  a  pickle  for  it, 
made  by  adding  to  each  a  quart  of  vinegar  an  ounce  of 
ground  black  pepper,  half  an  ounce  of  ginger  pounded,  same 
of  salt,  and  of  horseradish  cut  in  thin  slices ;  and  you  may 


PICKLES.  403 

warm  it,  if  you  like,  with  a  few  capsicums,  or  a  little  Cayenne ; 
put  these  ingredients  into  a  jar;  stop  it  close,  and  let  them 
steep  three  days  on  a  trivet  by  the  side  of  the  fire ;  then, 
when  cold,  pour  the  clear  liquor  on  the  beet-root,  which  have 
previously  arranged  in  ajar. 

Red  Cabbage.— (No.  120.) 

Get  a  fine  purple  cabbage,  take  off  the  outside  leaves, 
quarter  it,  take  out  the  stalk,  shred  the  leaves  into  a  colander, 
sprinkle  them  with  salt,  let  them  remain  till  the  morro\v, 
drain  them  dry,  put  them  into  a  jar,  and  cover  them  with  thc 
pickle  for  beet  roots. 

Onions— (No.  121.) 

The  small  round  silver  button  onions,  about  as  big  as  a 
nutmeg,  make  a  very  nice  pickle.  Take  off  their  top  coats, 
have  ready  a  stew-pan,  three  parts  filled  with  boiling  water, 
into  which  put  as  many  onions  as  will  cover  the  top :  as 
soon  as  they  look  clear,  immediately  take  them  up  with  a 
spoon  full  of  holes,  and  lay  them  on  a  cloth  three  times 
folded,  and  cover  them  \vith  another  till  you  have  ready  as 
many  as  you  wish  t  when  they  are  quite  dry,  put  them  into 
jars,  and  cover  them  with  hot  pickle,  made  by  infusing  an 
ounce  of  horseradish,  same  of  allspice,  and  same  of  black 
pepper,  and  same  of  salt,  in  a  quart  of  best  white-wine 
vinegar,  in  a  stone  jar,  on  a  trivet  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for 
three  days,  keeping  it  well  closed ;  when  cold,  bung  them 
down  tight,  and  cover  them  with  bladder  wetted  with  the 
pickle  and  leather. 

Cauliflowers  or  Broccoli.— (No.  122.) 

Choose  those  that  are  hard,  yet  sufficiently  ripe,  cut  away 
the  leaves  and  stalks. 

Set  on  a  stew-pan  half  full  of  water,  salted  in  proportion 
of  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  to  a  quart  of  water ;  throw  in 
the  cauliflower,  and  let  it  heat  gradually;  when  it  boils  take  it 
up  with  a  spoon  full  of  holes,  and  spread  them  on  a  cloth  to  dry 
before  the  fire,  for  twenty-four  hours  at  least ;  when  quite 
dry,  put  them,  piece  by  piece,  into  jars  or  glass  tie-overs,  and 
cover  them  with  the  pickle  we  have  directed  for  beet  roots, 
or  make  a  pickle  by  infusing  three  ounces  of  the  curry 
powder  (No.  455)  for  three  days  in  a  quart  of  vinegar  by  th§ 
side  of  the  fire. 

are  excellent  prepared  as  above^ 


404  tICKLES. 

Indian  or  mixed  Pickles — Mango  or  Piccalilli. — (No.  123.) 

The  flavouring  ingredients  of  Indian  pickles  are  a  com- 
pound of  curry  powder,  with  a  large  proportion  of  mustard 
and  garlic. 

The  following  will  be  found  something  like  the  real  mango 
pickle,  especially  if  the  garlic  be  used  plentifully.  To  each 
gallon  of  the  strongest  vinegar  put  four  ounces  of  curry 
powder  (No.  455),  same  of  flour  of  mustard  (some  rub  these 
together,  with  half  a  pint  of  salad  oil),  three  of  ginger  bruised, 
and  two  of  turmeric,  half  a  pound  (when  skinned)  of  escha- 
lots slightly  baked  in  a  Dutch  oven,  two  ounces  of  garlic  pre- 
pared in  like  manner,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt,  and  two 
drachms  of  Cayenne  pepper. 

Put  these  ingredients  into  a  stone  jar;  cover  it  with  a 
bladder  wetted  with  the  pickle,  and  set  it  on  a  trivet  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  during  three  days,  shaking  it  up  three  times 
a  day;  it  will  then  be  ready  to  receive  gherkins,  sliced 
cucumbers,  sliced  onions,  button  onions,  cauliflowers,  celery, 
broccoli,  French  beans,  nasturtiums,  capsicums,  and  small 
green  melons.  The  latter  must  be  slit  in  the  middle  suffi- 
ciently to  admit  a  marrow-spoon,  with  which  take  out  all  the 
.seeds ;  then  parboil  the  melons  in  a  brine  that  will  bear  an 
egg ;  dry  them,  and  fill  them  with  mustard-seed,  and  two 
< -loves  of  garlic,  and  bind  the  melon  round  with  packthread. 

Large  cucumbers  may  be  prepared  in  like  manner. 

Green  peaches  make  the  best  imitation  of  the  Indian 
mango. 

The  other  articles  are  to  be  separately  parboiled  (excepting 
the  capsicums)  in  a  brine  of  salt  and  water  strong  enough  to 
bear  an  egg ;  taken  out  and  drained,  and  spread  out,  and  tho- 
roughly dried  in  the  sun,  on  a  stove,  or  before  a  fire,  for  a 
.couple  of  days,  and  then  put  into  the  pickle. 

Any  thing  may  be  put  into  thje  pickle,  except  red  cabbage 
and  walnuts. 

It  will  keep  several  years. 

Obs. — To  the  Indian  mango  pickle  is  added  a  considerable 
quantity  of  mustard-seed  oil,  which  would  also  be  an  excel- 
lent warm  ingredient  in  our  salad  sauces. 


HOUSEKEEPERS'    MANUAL. 


VARIOUS  USEFUL  FAMILY  RECEIPTS. 

To  prevent  Beer  becoming  Flat  after  it  is  drawn. 

Put  a  piece  of  toasted  bread  into  it,  and  it  will  preserve 
the  spirit  for  twelve  hours  after,  in  a  very  considerable  degree. 

To  clean  Plate. 

First. — Take  care  that  your  plate  is  quite  free  from  grease. 

Second. — Take  some  whitening  mixed  with  water,  and  a 
sponge,  rub  it  well  on  the  plate,  which  will  take  the  tarnish 
off;  if  it  is  very  bad,  repeat  the  whitening  and  water  several 
times,  making  use  of  a  brush,  not  too  hard,  to  clean  the  intri- 
cate parts. 

Third. — Take  some  rouge-powder,  mix  it  with  water  to 
about  the  thickness  of  cream,  and  with  a  small  piece  of  leather 
(which  should  be  kept  for  that  purpose  only)  apply  the  rouge, 
which,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  "Elbow  Grease,"  will, 
in  a  short  time,  produce  a  most  beautiful  polish. 

N.B. — The  rouge-powder  may  be  had  at  all  the  silver- 
smiths and  jewellers. 

Obs. — The  above  is  the  actual  manner  in  which  silversmiths 
clean  their  plate,  and  was  given  to  me  by  a  respectable 
tradesman. 

The  common  Method  of  cleaning  Plate. 

First  wash  it  well  with  soap  and  warm  water ;  when  per- 
fectly dry,  mix  together  a  little  whitening  and  sweet  oil,  so  as 
to  make  a  soft  paste ;  then  take  a  piece  of  flannel,  rub  it  on 
the  plate  ;  then  with  a  leather,  and  plenty  of  dry  whitening, 
rub  it  clean  off  again ;  then,  with  a  clean  leather  and  a  brush, 
finish  it. 

Varnish  for  Oil  Paintings. 
According  to  the  number  of  your  pictures,  take  the  whites 


406  tSEFUL   FAMILY 

of  the  same  number  of  eggs,  and  an  equal  number  of  pieced 
of  sugar  candy,  the  size  of  a  hazel  nut,  dissolved,  and  mix 
it  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  brandy ;  beat  the  whites  of  your 
eggs  to  a  froth,  and  let  it  settle ;  take  the  clear,  put  it  to  your 
brandy  and  sugar,  mix  them  well  together,  and  varnish  over 
your  pictures  with  it. 

This  is  much  better  than  any  other  varnish,  as  it  is  easily 
washed  off  when  your  pictures  want  cleaning  again. 

Method  of  cleaning  Paper-Hangings 

Out  into  eight  half  quarters  a  quartern  loaf,  two  days  old ; 
it  must  neither  be  newer  nor  staler.  With  one  of  these  pieces, 
after  having  blown  off  all  the  dust  from  the  paper  to  be 
cleaned,  by  the  means  of  a  good  pair  of  bellows,  begin  at  the 
top  of  the  room,  holding  the  crust  in  the  hand,  and  wiping 
lightly  downward  with  the  crumb,  about  half  a  yard  at  each 
stroke*  till  the  upper  part  of  the  hangings  is  completely  cleaned 
all  round*  Then  go  round  again,  with  the  like  sweeping 
stroke  downwards^  always  commencing  each  successive 
course  a  little  higher  than  the  upper  stroke  had  extended,  till 
the  bottom  be  finished/  This  operation,  if  carefully  per- 
formed, will  frequently  make  very  old  paper  look  almost 
equal  to  new. 

Great  caution  must  be  Used  not.  by  any  means  to  rub  the 
paper  hardy  nor  to  attempt  cleaning  it  the  cross,  or  horizontal 
way.  The  dirty  part  of  the  bread,  too,  must  be  each  time  cut 
away,  and  the  pieces  renewed  as  soon  as  it  may  become 
necessary 

To  make  WOODED  Statfs  have  the  appearance  of  STONE* 

Paint  the;  stairs,  step  by  Step,  with  white  paint,  mixed  with 
strong  drying  oil*  Strew  it  thick  with  silver  sand. 

It  ought  to  be  thoroughly  dry  next  morning,  when  the  loose 
sand  is  td  be  swept  oft  The  painting  and  sanding  is  to  be 
repeated,  and  whert  dry,-  the  surface  is  to  be  done  over  with 
pipeclay,  whiting  arid  Wafer  <  which  may  be  boiled  in  an  old 
saucepan,  arid  laiA  oil  With  &  bit  of  flannel,  not  too  thick-? 
otherwise  it  will  be  apt  td  geate  off/ 

A  penny  cafee  of  pipeclay1,  which  mtist  be  set  aped,  is  the 
common  proportion  to  half  a  lump  of  whitingv 

The  pipe*day  &n<J  whiting  is  generally  applied  oftce*  £ 
Week,  biit  thai  ftiight  be  done  only  ss  Oe'e'a^ioii  fefflj|ft£j 


USEFUL  FAMILY  KEC£ii"r"sV  40? 

French  Polish. 

Take  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  gum  sandarac  and  a  quar- 
ter of  an  ounce  of  gum  mastife ;  pick  the  dirt  and  black  lumps 
out  very  carefully,  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  quite  fine ; 
put  them  into  a  bottle,  and  add  to  them  a  quartern  (old  mea- 
sure) of  strong  spirit  of  wine  ;  cork  it  down  and  put  it  in  a 
warm  place  ;  shake  it  frequently  till  the  gum  is  entirely  dis- 
solved, which  will  be  in  about  twenty-four  hours. 

Before  using  it,  be  careful  to  ascertain  that  no  grease  is  on 
the  furniture,  as  grease  would  prevent  Jts  receiving  the  polish. 
If  the  furniture  has  been  previously  cleaned  with  bees'-wax 
or  oil,  it  must  be  got  off  by  scraping,  which  is  the  best  way, 
but  difficult  to  those  who  do  not  perfectly  understand  it, 
because  if  you  are  not  very  careful,  you  may  scratch  the  sur- 
face, and  create  more  expense  than  a  workman  would  charge 
to  do  it  properly  at  first.  Or  it  may  be  done  by  scouring 
well  with  sand  and  water,  and  afterward  rubbed  quite  smooth 
with  fine  glass  paper,  being  careful  to  do  it  with  the  grain  of 
the  wood.  To  apply  the  polish,  you  must  have  a  piece  of 
list  or  cloth  twisted,  and  tied  round  quite  tight,  and  left  even 
at  one  end,  which  should  be  covered  with  a  piece  of  fine  linen 
cloth ;  then  pour  a  little  of  the  polish  on  the  furniture,  and 
nib  it  well  all  over  till  it  is  worked  into  the  grain  of  the  wood, 
and  begins  to  look  quite  smooth ;  then  take  a  soft  fine  cloth, 
or  what  is  better,  an  old  silk  handkerchief,  and  keep  rubbing 
lightly  until  the  polish  is  complete,  which  will  take  two  or 
three  hours.  It  will  greatly  help  the  polish  if  it  is  done  near 
a  fire. 

If  it  does  not  look  so  smooth  and  clear  as  it  should,  a  little 
sweet  oil  nibbed  lightly  over,  and  cleaned  off  directly,  will 
greatly  heighten  it.  If  any  part  of  the  furniture  has  carving 
about  it,  where  it  will  be  impossible  to  polish,  it  must  be  done 
with  mastic  varnish,  and  a  camel's  hair  brush,  after  the  rest 
is  finished. 

When  the  polish  begins  to  look  dull,  it  may  be  recovered, 
with  a  little  spirit  of  wine. 

Polish  for  Dining  Tables, 

Is  to  rub  them  with  cold-drawn  linseed  oil,  thus  :— put  a 
little  in  the  middle  of  a  table,  and  then  with  a  piece  of  linen 
(never  use  woollen)  cloth  rub  it  well  all  over  the  table ;  then 
take  another  piece  of  linen,  and  rub  it  for  ten  minutes, 
then  rub  it  till  quite  dry  with  another  cloth.  This  must  be 
done  every  day  for  several  months,  when  you  will  find  your 


408  USEFUL    FAMILY    RECEIPTS. 

mahogany  acquire  a  permanent  and  beautiful  lustre,  unat- 
tainable by  any  other  means,  and  equal  to  the  finest  French 
polish ;  and  if  the  table  is  covered  with  the  tablecloth  only, 
the  hottest  dishes  will  make  no  impression  upon  it :  and  when 
once  this  polish  is  produced,  it  will  only  require  dry  rubbing 
with  a  linen  cloth  for  about  ten  minutes  twice  in  a  week,  to 
preserve  it  in  the  highest  perfection;  which  never  fails  to 
please  your  employers ;  and  remember,  that  to  please  others 
is  always  the  surest  way  to  profit  yourself. 

If  the  appearance  must  be  more  immediately  produced,  take 
some  FURNITURE  PASTE. 

To  prevent  disagreeable  Smells  from  Sinks,  fyc. 

The  disgustful  effluvia  arising  from  cabbage-water,  and 
the  various  ungrateful  odours  which  arise  from  the  sink  of 
kitchens,  drains,  &c.,  are  not  only  an  unnecessary  nuisance 
to  the  good  folks  of  the  second  table,  but  we  believe  such 
miasm  is  not  an  uncommon  cause  of  putrid  fevers,  &c.  &c. 

It  cannot  be  too  generally  known,  that  a  cheap  and  simple 
apparatus  has  been  contrived  for  carrying  off  the  waste  water, 
&c.  from  sinks,  which  at  the  same  time  effectually  prevents 
any  air  returning  back  from  thence,  or  from  any  drain  con- 
nected therewith.  This  is  known  by  the  name  of  Stink  Trap, 
and  costs  about  five  shillings. 

No  kitchen  sink  should  be  without  it. 

To  prevent  Moths. 

In  the  month  of  April  beat  your  fur  garments  well  with  a 
small  cane  or  elastic  stick,  then  lap  them  up  in  linen  without 
pressing  the  fur  too  hard,  and  put  between  the  folds  some 
camphor  in  small  lumps ;  then  put  your  furs  in  this  state  in 
boxes  well  closed. 

When  the  furs  are  wanted  for  use,  beat  them  well  as  before, 
and  expose  them  for  twenty-four  hours  to  the  air,  which  will 
take  away  the  smell  of  the  camphor. 

If  the  fur  has  long  hair,  as  bear  or  fox,  add  to  the  camphor 
an  equal  quantity  of  black  pepper  in  powder. 

Paste. 

To  make  common  paste,  mix  one  table-spoonful  of  flour 
with  one  of  cold  water,  stir  it  well  together,  and  add  two 
more  table-spoonfuls  of  water;  set  it  over  the  fire  and  give 
it  a  boil,  stirring  it  all  the  time,  or  it  will  bum  at  the  bottom  of 
the  saucepan. 


(  409  ) 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  CARVING. 

>  ;  Have  you  learned  to  carve  ?'  for  it  is  ridiculous  not  to  carve  well. 

u  A  man  who  tells  you  gravely  that  he  cannot  carve,  may  aa  well  tell  you  that  lie 
cannot  feed  himself;  it  is  both  as  necessary  and  aa  easy." — Lord  CHESTERFIELD'S 
21Wi  Letter. 

NEXT  to  giving  a  good  dinner,  is  treating  our  friends  with, 
hospitality  and  attention,  and  this  attention  is  what  young 
people  have  to  learn.  Experience  will  teach  them  in  time, 
but  till  they  acquire  it,  they  will  appear  ungraceful  and 
awkward. 

Although  the  art  of  carving  is  one  of  the  most  necessary 
accomplishments  of  a  gentleman,  it  is  little  known  but  to 
those  who  have  long  been  accustomed  to  it ;  a  more  useful 
or  acceptable  present  cannot  be  offered  to  the  public  than  to 
lay  before  them  a  book  calculated  to  teach  the  rising  genera- 
tion how  to  acquit  themselves  amiably  in  this  material  part  oi' 
the  duties  of  the  table. 

Young  people  seldom  study  this  branch  of  the  philosophy 
of  the  banquet,  beyond  the  suggestion  of  their  own  whims 
and  caprices;  and  cut  up  things  not  only  carelessly,  but 
wastefully,  until  they  learn  the  pleasure  of  paying  butchers* 
and  poulterers'  bills  on  their  own  account. 

Young  housekeepers,  unaccustomed  to  carving,  will,  with 
the  help  of  the  following  instructions,  soon  be  enabled  to 
carve  with  ease  and  elegance ;  taking  care  also  to  observe, 
as  occasion  may  offer,  the  manner  in  which  a  skilful 
operator  sets  about  his  task,  when  a  joint  or  fowl  is  placed 
befqre  him. 

It  has  been  said,  that  you  may  judge  of  a  person's  charac- 
ter by  his  handwriting ;  you  may  judge  of  his  conscience  by 
his  carving. 

Fair  carving  is  much  more  estimable  evidence  of  good 
nature  than  fair  writing :  let  me  see  how  a  gentleman 
carves  at  another  person's  table,  especially  how  he  helps 
himself,  and  I  will  presently  tell  you  how  far  he  is  of  Pope's 
opinion,  that 

"True  self-love  and  social  are  the  same." 

The  selfish  appetites  never  exhibit  themselves  in  a  more 
unmasked  and  more  disgusting  manner  than  in  the  use  thev 
Mm 


410  CARVING. 

excite  a  man  to  make  of  his  knife  and  fork  in  carving  for 
himself,  especially  when  not  at  his  own  cost.  i 

Some  keen  observer  of  human  nature  has  said,  "  Would 
you  know  a  man's  real  disposition,  ask  him  to  dinner,  and 
give  him  plenty  to  drink." 

"  The  Oracle"  says,  "  invite  the  gentleman  to  dinner,  cer- 
tainly, and  set  him  to  carving."  The  gentleman  who  wishes 
to  ensure  a  hearty  welcome,  and  frequent  invitations  to  the 
board  of  hospitality,  may  calculate  with  Cockerial  correct- 
ness, that  "  the  easier  he  appears  to  be  pleased,  the  oftener 
he  will  be  invited."  Instead  of  unblushingly  demanding  of 
the  fair  hostess,  that  the  prime  "  tit-bit  of  every  dish  be  put 
on  his  plate,  he  must  receive,  (if  not  with  pleasure  or  even 
content,)  with  the  liveliest  expressions  of  thankfulness, 
whatever  is  presented  to  him;  and  let  him  not  forget  to 
praise  the  cook  (no  matter  whether  he  be  pleased  with  her 
performance  or  not),  and  the  saire  shall  be  reckoned  unto 
him  even  as  praise  to  the  mistress." 

"  If  he  does  not  like  his  fare,  he  may  console  himself  with 
the  reflection,  that  he  need  not  expose  his  mouth  to  the  like 
mortification  again.  Mercy  to  the  feelings  of  the  mistress 
of  the  mansion,  will  forbid  his  then  appearing  otherwise  than 
absolutely  delighted  with  it,  notwithstanding  it  may  be  his 
extreme  antipathy.  If  he  like  it  ever  so  little,  he  will  find 
occasion  to  congratulate  himself  on  the  advantage  his  diges- 
tive organs  will  derive  from  his  making  a  moderate  dinner ; 
and  consolation  from  contemplating  the  double  relish  he  is 
creating  for  the  following  meal,  and  anticipating  the  rare  and 
delicious  zest  of  (that  best  sauce)  good  appetite,  and  an  un- 
restrained indulgence  of  his  gourmandizing  fancies  at  the 
chop-house  he  frequents." 

The  following  extract  from  that  rare  book,  GILES  ROSE'S 
School  for  the  Officers  of  the  Mouth,  IGmo.  1684,  shows  «that 
the  art  of  carving  was  a  much  more  elaborate  affair  formerly 
than  it  is  at  present. 

LE  GRAND  ESCUYER  TRANCHANT,  or  the  Great  Master  Carver. 

"  The  exercise  of  a  master  carver  is  more  noble  and  com- 
mendable, it  may  be,  than  every  one  will  imagine  ;  for  sup- 
pose that  life  to  be  the  foundation  of  all  that  is  done  in  the 
world,  this  life  is  not  to  be  sustained  without  maintaining  oui 
natural  heat  by  eating  and  drinking." 

Never  trust  a  cook  teaser  with  the  important  office  of 
carver,  or  place  him  within  reach  of  any  principal  dish.  I 
shall  never  forget  the  following  exhibition  of  a  selfish  spoiled 
child :  the  first  dish  that  Master  Johnny  mangled,  was  three 
mackerel ;  he  cut  off  the  upper  side  of  each  fish :  next  came 


CARVIKG.  411 

a  couple  of  fowls;  in  taking  off  the  wings  of  which  the 
young  gentleman  so  hideously  hacked  and  miserably  mangled 
every  other  part,  that  when  they  were  brought  for  luncheon 
the  following  day,  they  appeared  as  if  just  removed  from  a 
conclave  of  dainty  cats,  rather  than  having  been  carved 
by  a  rational  creature.  When  the  master  of  the  family, 
who  was  extremely  near-sighted,  sat  down  to  his  nooning, 
in  expectation  of  enjoying  the  agreeable  amusement  of 
having  a 

"Nice  bit  of  chicken 
For  his  ovvo  private  picking, 

no  sooner  had  he  put  on  his  specs,  and  begun  to  focus  hie 
fowl,  than  he  suddenly  started  up,  rang  for  the  cook,  and 
after  having  vociferated  at  her  carelessness,  and  lectured  her 
for  being  so  extremely  perfunctory  and  disorderly  in  not 
keeping  the  cat  out  of  the  cupboard,  till  his  appetite  for 
scolding  was  pretty  well  satisfied,  he  paused  for  her  apology; 
the  guardian  genius  of  the  pantry,  to  his  extreme  astonish- 
ment, informed  him,  that  his  suspicions  concerning  the 
hideous  appearance  which  had  so  shocked  him,  was  erro- 
neous: such  unsightly  havoc  was  not  occasioned  by  the 
epicurism  of  a^owr-legged  brute,  and  that  the  fowls  were 
exactly  in  the  same  state  they  came  from  the  table,  and  that 
young  Master  Johnny  had  cut  them  up  himself. 

Those  in  the  parlour  should  recollect  the  importance  of 
setting  a  good  example  to  their  friends  at  the  second  table. 
If  they  cut  bread,  meat,  cheese,  &c.  fairly,  it  will  go  twice  as 
far  as  if  hacked  and  mangled  by  some  sensualists,  who  appear 
to  have  less  consideration  for  their  domestics  than  a  good 
sportsman  for  his  dogs. 

A  prudent  carver  will  distribute  the  dainties  he  is  serving 
out  in  equal  division,  and  regulate  his  helps  by  the  proportion 
his  dish  bears  to  the  number  it  is  to  be  divided  among,  and 
considering  the  quantum  of  appetite  the  several  guests  are 
presumed  to  possess. 

If  you  have  a  bird,  or  other  delicacy  at  table,  which  cannot 
be  apportioned  out  to  all  as  you  wish,  when  cut  up,  let  it  be 
handed  round  by  a  servant ;  modesty  will  then  prompt  the 
guests  to  take  but  a  small  portion,  and  such  as  perhaps  could 
not  be  offered  to  them  without  disrespect. 

Those  chop-house  cormorants  who 

"  Critique  your  wine,  and  analyze  your  meat, 
Yet  on  plain  pudding  deign  at  home  to  eat," 

are  generally  tremendously  officious  in  serving  out  the  loaves 


412  CARVING. 

and  fishes  of  other  people ;  for,  under  the  notion  of  appearing 
exquisitely  amiable,  and  killingly  agreeable  to  the  guests, 
they  are  ever  on  the  watch  to  distribute  themselves  the 
dainties*  which  it  is  the  peculiar  part  of  the  master  and  mis- 
tress to  serve  out,  and  is  to  them  the  most  pleasant  part  of 
the  business  of  the  banquet ;  the  pleasure  of  helping  their 
friends  is  the  gratification  which  is  their  reward  for  the  trouble 
they  have  had  in  preparing  the  feast :  such  gentry  are  the 
terror  of  all  good  housewives ;  to  obtain  their  favourite  cut 
they  will  so  unmercifully  mangle  your  joints,  that  a  lady's 
dainty  lapdog  would  hardly  get  a  meal  from  them  afterward ; 
but  which,  if  managed  by  the  considerative  hands  of  an  old 
housekeeper,  would  furnish  a  decent  dinner  for  a  large  family. 

The  man  of  manners  picks  not  the  best,  but  rather  takes 
the  worst  out  of  the  dish,  and  gets  of  every  thing  (unless  it 
be  forced  upon  him)  always  the  most  indifferent  fare  by  this 
civility,  the  best  remains  for  others  ;  which  being  a  compli- 
ment to  all  that  are  present,  every  body  will  be  pleased  with 
it ;  the  more  they  love  themselves,  the  more  they  are  forced 
to  approve  of  his  behaviour,  and  gratitude  stepping  in,  they 
are  obliged,  almost  whether  they  will  or  not,  to  think  favoura- 
bly of  him. 

After  this  manner  it  is  that  the  well-bred  man  insinuates 
himself  in  the  esteem  of  all  the  companies  he  comes  in ;  and 
if  he  gets  nothing  else  by  it,  the  pleasure  he  receives  in  re- 
flecting on  the  applause  which  he  knows  is  secretly  given  him, 
is  to  a  proud  man  more  than  equivalent  for  his  former  self- 
denial,  and  overpays  self-love,  with  interest,  the  loss  it  sus- 
tained in  his  complaisance  to  others. 

If  there  are  seven  or  eight  apples,  or  peaches,  among  peo- 
ple of  ceremony,  that  are  pretty  nearly  equal,  he  who  is  pre- 
vailed on  to  choose  first,  will  take  that  which,  if  there  be  any 
considerable  difference,  a  child  would  know  to  be  the  worst. 

This  he  does  to  insinuate,  that  he  looks  upon  those  he  is 
with  to  be  of  superior  merit ;  and  that  there  is  not  one  whom 
he  does  not  love  better  than  himself.  Custom  and  general 
practice  make  this  modish  deceit  familiar  to  us,  without  being 
shocked  at  the  absurdity  of  it. 

"  If  people  had  been  used  to  speak  from  the  sincerity  of 
their  hearts,  and  act  according  to  the  natural  sentiments  they 
felt  within,  till  they  were  three  or  four  and  forty,  it  would  be 
impossible  for  them  to  assist  at  this  comedy  of  manners 
without  either  loud  laughter  or  indigestion ;  and  yet  it  is  cer- 

*  He  who  greedily  grapples  for  ths  prime  parts,  exhibits  indubitable  evidence 
that  he  came  for  that  purpose.  < 


CARVING.  4J3 

lain,  that  such  a  behaviour  makes  us  more  tolerable  to  one 
another,  than  we  could  be  otherwise." 

The  master  or  mistress  of  the  table  should  appear  to  con- 
tinue eating  as  long  as  any  of  the  company ;  and  should,  ac- 
cordingly, help  themselves  in  a  way  that  will  enable  them  to 
give  this  specimen  of  good  manners  without  being  particu- 
larly observed. 

"  It  belongs  to  the  master  and  mistress,  and  to  no  one  else, 
to  desire  their  guests  to  eat,  and,  indeed,  carving  belongs  to 
nobody  but  the  master  and  mistress,  and  those  whom  they 
think  fit  to  desire,  who  are  to  deliver  what  they  cut  to  the  mas- 
ter or  mistress,  to  be  by  them  distributed  at  their  pleasure." 

A  seat  should  be  placed  for  the  carver  sufficiently  elevated 
to  give  him  a  command  of  the  table,  as  the  act  of  rising  to 
perform  this  duty  is  considered  ungraceful. 

The  carving-knife  should  be  light  and  sharp ;  and  it  should 
be  firmly  grasped;  although  in  using  it,  strength  is  not  as 
essential  as  skill,  particularly  if  the  butcher  has  properly 
divided  the  bones  of  such  joints  as  the  neck,  loin,  and  breast 
of  veal  or  of  mutton. 

The  dish  should  not  be  far  from  the  carver ;  for  when  it  is 
too  distant,  by  occasioning  the  arms  to  be  too  much  extended, 
it  gives  an  awkward  appearance  to  the  person,  and  renders 
the  task  more  difficult. 

In  carving  fish,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  break  the  flakes, 
and  this  is  best  avoided  by  the  use  of  a  fish  trowel,  which  not 
being  sharp,  divides  it  better  than  a  steel  knife.  Examine 
this  little  drawing,  and  you  will  see  how  a  cod's  head  and 
shoulders  should  be  carved.  The  head  and  shoulders  of  a  cod 
contain  the  richest  and  best  part  of  this  excellent  fish. 


Mm2 


414 


CARVING. 


Fig.  2. 


The  first  piece  may  be  taken  off  in  the  direction  of  a  I, 
by  putting  in  the  trowel  at  the  back  or  thick  part  of  the  fish, 
and  the  rest  in  successive  order.  A  small  part  of  the  sound 
should  be  given  with  each  slice,  and  will  be  found  close  to 
the  back-bone,  by  raising  the  thin  flap  d.  It  is  known  by 
being  darker  coloured  and  more  transparent  than  the  other 
parts  of  the  fish.  Almost  every  part  of  a  cod's  head  is  con- 
sidered good;  the  palate,  the  tongue,  the  jelly,  and  firm  parts, 
e  e,  upon  and  immediately  around  the  jaw  and  bones  of  the 
head,  are  considered  as  delicate  eating  by  many  persons. 
A  boiled  fowl  has  the  legs  bent  inward  (see  Jig.  2),  and 
fastened  to  the  sides  by  a 
skewer,  which  is  removed  be- 
fore the  fowl  is  sent  to  table. 
A  roasted  fowl  should  not  have 
any  part  of  the  legs  cut  off,  as 
in  the  boiled  fowl;  but  after 
they  have  been  properly 
scraped  and  washed,  they  are 
drawn  together  at  the  very 
extremity  of  the  breast.  A 
boiled  and  a  roasted  fowl  arc 
each  carved  in  the  same  man- 
ner. The  wings  are  taken  off  in 
the  direction  of  a  to  6  (fig.  2). 
Your  knife  must  divide  the  joint,  but  afterward  you  have 
only  to  take  firm  hold  of  the  pinion  with  your  fork,  draw 
the  wings  towards  the  legs,  and  you  will  find  that  the  muscles 
separate  better  than  if  you  cut  them  with  your  knife.  Slip 
your  knife  between  the  leg  and  the  body,  and  cut  to  the  bone, 
then  with  the  fork  turn  the  leg  back,  and,  if  the  fowl  be  not 
a  very  old  one,  the  joints  will  give  way. 
After  the  four  quarters  are  thus  removed,  enter  the  knife  at 
the  breast,  in  the  direction  c  d 
Fig.  3.  (Jig  3),  and  you  will  separate 

the  merrythought  from  the 
breast-bone;  and  by  'placing 
your  knife  under  it,  lift  it  up, 
pressing  it  backward  on  the 
dish,  and  you  will  easily  re- 
move that  bone.  The  collar- 
bones, e  e,  lie  on  each  side  the 
merrythought,  and  are  to  be 
lifted  up  at  the  broad  end,  by 
the  knife,  and  forced  towards  the  breast-bone,  till  the  part 
which  is  fastened  to  it  breaks  off.  The  breast  is  next  to  be 


Fig.  4. 


CARVING.  415 

separated  from  the  carcass,  by  cutting  through  the  ribs  on 
each  side,  from  one  end  of  the  fowl  to  the  other.  The  back 
is  then  laid  upward,  and  the  knife 
passed  firmly  across  it,  near  the  middle, 
while  the  fork  lifts  up  the  other  end.  The 
side  bone  are  lastly  to  be  separated ;  to 
do  which  turn  the  back  from  you,  and  on 
each  side  the  back-bone,  in  the  direction 
of  gg  (Jig>  4),  you  will  find  a  joint,  which 
you  must  separate,  and  the  cutting  up  of 
of  the  fowl  will  be  complete. 
Ducks  and  partridges  are  to  be  cut  up  in  the  same  manner ; 
in  the  latter,  however,  the  merrythought  is  seldom  separated 
from  the  breast,  unless  the  birds  are  very  large. 

Turkeys  and  geese  have  slices  cut  on  each  side  of  the 
breast-bone,  and  by  beginning  to  cut  from  the  wing  upwards 
to  the  breast-bone,  many  more  slices  may  be  obtained  than  if 
you  cut  from  the  breast-bone  to  the  wings,  although  I  do  not 
think  the  slices  are  quite  as  handsome  as  if  cut  in  the  latter 
method. 
Fig.  6. 


Pigeons  (see  fig.  6)  are  either  cut  from 
the  neck  to  o,  which  is  the  fairest  way,  or 
/rom  b  to  c,  which  is  now  the  most  fashiona- 
ble mode ;  and  the  lower  part  is  esteemed 
the  best. 


There  are  two  ways  of  carving  a  hare.    When  it  is  young-, 
the  knife  may  be  entered  near  the  shoulder  at  a  (seej^g-.  7), 
Fig.  7. 


416  CARVING. 

and  cut  down  to  b,  on  each  side  of  the  backbone ;  and  thus 
the  hare  will  be  divided  into  three  parts.  The  back  is  to  be 
again  divided  into  four  parts,  where  the  dotted  liner  _4-e  in 
the  cut :  these  and  the  legs  are  considered  the  best  parts, 
though  the  shoulders  are  preferred  by  some,  and  are  to  be 
taken  off  in  the  direction  of  c  d  e.  The  pieces  should  be  laid 
neatly  on  the  plates,  as  they  are  separated,  and  each  plate 
served  with  stuffing  and  gravy.  When  the  hare  is  old,  it  is 
better  not  to  attempt  the  division  down  the  back,  which 
would  require  much  strength ;  but  the  legs  should  be  sepa- 
rated from  the  body  at^  and  then  the  meat  cut  off  from  each 
side,  and  divided  into  moderate  sized  pieces.  If  the  brains 
and  ears  are  required,  cut  off  the  head,  and  put  your  knife 
between  the  upper  and  lower  jaw,  and  divide  them,  which 
will  enable  you  to  lay  the  upper  jaw  flat  on  the  dish:  then 
force  the  point  of  your  knife  into  the  centre,  and  having  cul 
the  head  into  two  parts,  distribute  the  brains  with  the  ears  to 
those  who  like  them. 

Rabbits  are  carved  in  the  same  manner  as  a  hare,  except 
that  the  back  is  divided  only  into  two  pieces,  which,  with 
the  legs,  are  considered  the  most  delicate  parts. 

A  ham  is  generally  cut  in  the  direction  of  a  to  6,  (/g-.  8) 


down  to  the  bone,  and  through  the  prime  part  of  tfye  ham. 
Another  way  is  to  cut  a  small  hole  at  c,  and  to  enlarge  it  by 
cutting  circular  pieces  out  of  it ;  this  method  brings  )^ou  to 
the  best  part  of  the  ham  directly,  and  has  an  advantage  over 
the  other  in  keeping  in  the  gravy. 

A  leg  of  mutton  is  more  easily  carved  than  any  other  joint, 
but  nevertheless  there  is  a  mode  of  doing  it  neatly,  which 
should  be  observed.  The  first  slice  should  be  taken  out  at 
,  9),  between  the  knugkle  b  and  the  thick  end ;  and  the 


417 


second  and  subsequent  slices  should  be  cut  in  this  direction, 
until  you  are  stopped  by  the  cramp-bone  at  c ;  then  turn  it 
up,  and  take  the  remaining  slices  from  the  back,  in  a  longi- 
tudinal direction.  When  the  leg  is  rather  lean,  help  some 
fat  from  the  broad  end  with  each  slice.  The  best  and  most 
juicy  slices  are  toward  the  broad  end:  but  some  persons 
prefer  the  knuckle :  and  where  economy  is  an  object,  the 
knuckle  should  always  be  eaten  when  the  joint  is  hot,  as  it 
becomes  veiy  dry  when  cold.  If  the  joint  is  to  be  brought 
again  to  table,  it  has  a  much  neater  and  more  respectable 
appearance  if  it  be  helped,  altogether,  from  the  knuckle  end, 
when  it  is  hot.  This  direction  may  appear  trifling ;  but  a 
good  economist  knows  the  importance  of  carving,  when  the 
circumstances  of  a  family  require  that  a  joint  be  brought  a 
second  time  to  table. 
A  haunch  of  venison  ( fig.  10)  should  be  cut  down  to  the 

Fig.  10. 


418  CARVING. 

bone  in  the  direction  of  the  line  a  b  e,  by  which  means  the 
gravy  is  allowed  to  flow  out :  then  the  carver,  turning  the 
broad  end  of  the  haunch  toward  him,  should  cut  in  deep 
from  b  to  d.  He  then  cuts  thin  slices  in  the  same  direction, 
taking  care  to  give  to  each  person  whom  he  helps  a  due  pro- 
portion of  fat,  which  is,  by  lovers  of  venison,  highly  prized : 
there  is  generally  more  of  this  delicacy  on  the  left  side  of 
b  d  than  on  the  other  side. 

A  haunch  of  mutton  is  carved  in  the  same  manner  a? 
venison. 

A  saddle  of  mutton  (Jig.  11)  is  cut  from  the  tail  to  tht 

Fig.  11. 


end  on  each  side  the  back-bone,  in  the  direction  of  the  line* 
a  b,  continuing  downward  to  the  edge  c,  until  it  become  too 
fat.  The  slices  should  be  cut  thin,  and  if  the  joint  be  a  large 
one,  they  may  be  divided  into  two  parts.  The  fat  will  be 
found  on  the  sides. 

A  sucking  pig  is  cut  iip  before  it  is  sent  to  table.  The 
nps  may  be  divided  into  two  parts  as  well  as  the  joints.  The 
ribs  are  considered  the  finest  part,  and  the  neck  end  undei* 
the  shoulder.  Part  of  the  kidneys  should  be  added  to  each 
helping. 

A  shoulder  of  mutton,  if  properly  roasted,  is  supposed  to 
yield  many  choice  pieces,  but  this  depends  very  much  upon 
the  carver.  The  first  cut  should  be  in  the  direction  c  b  (fig- 
X3) ;  and,  after  taking  a  few  slices  on  each  side  of  the  gap 


419 


which  follows  the  first  cut,  some  good  slices  may  be  obtained 
on  each  side  of  the  ridge  of  the  shoulder  blade,  in  the  direc- 
tion c  d.  When  the  party  is  numerous,  slices  may  be  taken 
from  the  under  side ;  and  it  is  on  this  side,  under  the  edge  c, 
that  the  fat  is  found.* 

Buttock  of  Beef 

Is  always  boiled,  and  requires  no  print  to  point  out  how  it 
should  be  carved.  A  thick  slice  should  be  cut  off  all  round 
the  buttock,  that  your  friends  may  be  helped  to  the  juicy  and 
prime  part  of  it.  The  outside  thus  cut  off,  thin  slices  may 
then  be  cut  from  the  top ;  but  as  it  is  a  dish  that  is  frequently 
brought  to  table  cold  a  second  day,  it  should  always  be  cut 
handsome  and  even.  When  a  slice  all  round  would  be  con- 
sidered too  much,  the  half,  or  a  third,  may  be  given  with  a 
thin  slice  of  fat.  On  one  side  there  is  a  part  whiter  than 
ordinary,  by  some  called  the  white  muscle.  In  some  places, 
a  buttock  is  generally  divided,  and  this  white  part  sold  sepa- 
rate, as  a  delicacy  ^  but  it  is  by  no  means  so,  the  meat  being 
coarse  and  dry;  whereas  the  darker-coloured  parts,  though 
apparently  of  a  coarser  grain,  are  of  a  looser  texture,  more 
tender,  fuller  of  gravy,  and  better  flavoured ;  and  men  of 
distinguishing  palates  ever  prefer  them. 

»  Another  way  of  carving  a  shoulder  of  mutton,  and  one  which  many  persons 
prefer,  is  in  slices  from  the  knuckle  to  the  broad  end  of  the  shoulder  beginning  on 
the  outside.  See  the  lines  /  and  g. 


INDEX. 


Tlie  Figures  in  the  body  of  the  Index  refer  to  the  Number  of  the  Receipts ;  those  in 
the  column,  under  the  word  Page,  to  where  the  Receipts  are  to  be  found ;  and 
those  preceded  by  Ap.,  to  the  Receipts  in  the  Appendix. 


ACID  of  lemon,  artificial,  407*  ...... 

Accum  on  Adulterations,  quoted, 

note  to  433  ...................... 

An  alderman  in  chains,  57  .......... 

A-la-mode  beef,  or  veal,  or  English 

turtle,  502  ....................... 

Allspice,  essence  of,  412  ............ 

-  tincture  of,  413  ........... 

--  Sir  H.  Sloane  on,  note  ---- 

Almond  custards  (Ap.  54.)  ......... 

Anchovy  sauce,  270  ............... 

--  essence,  433  .............. 

---  toast,  573  ............  .... 


-  powder,  435  ..............    ib. 

--  to  keep  them  well,  Obs.  to 

270  .............................  233 

Apicius,  his  sauce  for  boiled  chicken    35 
Appetite,  good,  why  the  best  sauce    52 

-  to  refresh  ................    38 

Appert,  his  art  of  preserving  vegeta- 

bles, note  .......................  164 

Apple  pie  (  Ap.  32.)  ................  369 

-  pudding,  boiled  (Ap.112.)...  397 

-  dumplings,  ditto  (Ap.  113.)  .  .    ib. 
--  tart,  creamed  (Ap.  33.)  .....  369 

---  sauce,  304  ..................  242 

Apples,  to  dry  (Ap.  83.)  ............  384 

Apricot  jam  (  Ap.  03.)  ..............  387 

Artichokes,  136-  ..................  166 

---  Jerusalem,  117  ........  160 

Asparagus,  123  ..................  ..  161 

--  soup,  222  ...........  _____  206 

Arrack,  to  imitate,  480  ............  299 

Arbuthnot,  Dr.,  quoted,  Preface  ----  viii. 

Abernethy,  Mr.,  quoted,  note  .......    20 

J?acon,13  .........................  117 

-  slices  of,  526  ...............  324 

--  relishing  rashers  of,  527  .....    ib. 

--  sparerib,  to  roast  ...........  133 

Bain-Marie,  note  to  485  and  529*  304.  326 
Baking  ...........................    72 

Baked  custard  (Ap.  52.)  ...........  375 

-  pears  (Ap.  82.)...  ...........  384 


Barley  water,  563 35*) 

h     $204 199 

-  to  make  a  gallon  for  a 

groat 210 

sugar  (Ap.  90.) 386 

drops  (Ap.  91.) ib. 

Basil,  when  to  dry 291 

vinegar,  or  wine,  397 268 

sauce,  264 231 

Bauer  pudding  (Ap.  111.) 397 

Beans,  French,  133 164 

Beauly 51 

Bechamel,  364 257 

Beef  bouilli,  5. 238. 493 109. 212.  306 

how  nutritive  and  economical,  5  103 

to  salt,  6 Ill 

savoury,  496 3K> 

a  round  of,  salted,  to  boil,  7. . .  113 

what  the  outside  slices  are  good 

for,  N.B.to? ib 

H-Bone,8 ib 

ribs,  and  rolled,  9 114 

baron  of. 34 

sirloin,  roasted,  19 122 

proper  way  to  carve,  in  note 

to  19 123 

as  mock  hare,  66* 141 

ribs,  roasted,  20 123 

ditto,  boned  and  rolled,  21 124 

steaks,  to  fry,  85 148 

steak  pudding  (Ap.  24.) 367 

season  for,  see  note  to  94 151 

with  onions,  86 14S 

to  broil,  94 151 

the  superlative  steak ib, 

Macbeth's  receipt,  and  le  ve- 
ritable bif-teck  de   Beauvilliers, 

N.B.  to  94 152 

tostew,500 311 

with  onion  gravy,  501 312 

broth,  185 193 

broth   for    glaze,  or   portable 

soup  or  sauce,  252 223 

gravy,  186 19* 

strong  gravy,  188 ib. 

cull»9,18!>. 193 

n 


4£2 


IXDEX. 


Beef,  for  poultry,  &c.  329 

—  shin  of,  soup,  193 

tea,  563 

to  hash,  486 

shin,  stewed,  493 

brisket,  stewed,  494 

haricot,  495 

Hunter's  savoury,  baked  or 

stewed,  496 

• A-la-mode,or  English  turtle,  502 

to  pot,  503 

bubble  and  squeak,  505 

hashed,  and  bones  broiled,  506 

cold,  broiled,  &c.  487 

Beer,  to  recover  when  hard,  468 — 

to  bottle,  468 

cup,  464 

Beet  roots,  127 

— : to  pickle  (Ap.  119) 

Biscuit  drops  (Ap.  68.) 

Bishop,  essence  of,  412 

Birch,  bis  excellent  mock  turtle,  note 

under247 

Blackcock,  71 

Blancmange  (Ap.  46.) 

BOILING 

Boiled  custard  (Ap.53.) 

Bouillon  de  sante, 19ti 

Bonne  bouche  for  geese,  pork,  &c. 

341 

Brandy,  how  to  obtain  genuine  Cog- 
nac  

BREAD,  to  make  (Ap.  100.) 

sauce,  321 

sippets,  fried,  319 

crumbs,  do.  320 

pudding,  556 

Broccoli,  126 

pickled,  (Ap.  122.) : 

Bride,  or  wedding  cake  ( Ap.  56.) ... 

Brill,  143 

Brains  are  sadly  dependent  on  the 

bowels 

— — —  Dr.  Cadogan's  obs.  thereon, 

note 

Brain  bails 

BROILING,  see  the  4th  chapter  of 

Rudiments  of  Cookery 

Brose,  Scotch,  205.* 

Brunswick  tourte  (Ap.  45.) 

BROTH,  see  the  7th  chapter  of  the 

Rudiments  of  Cookery 

black 

• of  fragments 

beef,  185 

to  clarify,  252* 

mutton,  194 

mock  ditto,  195 

with  cutlets,  490 

Scotch  barley,  204 

for  sick,  564 

Browning,  to  colour  soup  and  sauce, 

&C.322. * 

Bill  of  fare  for  a  week 


Buns,  plain  (Ap.77.) 

cross  (Ap.  78.) 

seed  (Ap.79.) 

plum  (Ap.  80.) 

Bath  (Ap.  65.) 

Burnet  vinegar  has  the  same  taste 

as  cucumber,  399 

sauce,  264 


(b, 

ib. 

37!' 

27i  > 
231 


Burgoo,  Scotch,  572*. 

Butler's  directions  for  drying  herbs, 

461 

to  market  for  ve- 


getables 

Butler,  Obs.  on  the  business  of  a 

note 

BUTTER,  best  manner  of  melting.. . 

to  recover  when  oiled 

clarified,  259 

burnt,  260 

oiled,  260* , 


39 


230 
ib 

ib. 


CATHOLIC  FAMILIES,  cookery  for, 

158.224 178.207 

Cabbage,  118 160 

boiled  and  fried,  or  bubble 

and  squeak,  119. 505 160.  316 

Cakes,  common  seed  (Ap.  59.) 377 

rich,  yest(Ap.60.) 378 

queen,  or  heart  (Ap.  61.) ....    ib. 

Shrewsbury  ( Ap.  63.) ib. 

Banbury  ( Ap.  64.) 379 

Savoy,  or  sponge  (Ap.  67.)..  380 

Ratafia  (Ap. 71.) .. .  381 

almond  sponge  (Ap.  72.) ....    ib. 

diet  bread  (Ap.  74.) ib. 

Derby,  or  short  (Ap.  87.) ....  385 

Yorkshire  (Ap.  104.)........  391 

Calf,  a  fatted,  preferred  to  a  starved 

turtle,247 221 

's  head  to  boil,  10 114 

tohash,  10... 115 

ragout,520 321 

mock  turtle,  247 219 


feet  jelly,  481. 


Camp  vinegar,  403 271 

Carp,  stewed,  158 177 

Carrots,  129 163 

soup,  212 201 

Carving,  best  rule  for 43 

ancient  terms  of,  note. ...   ib. 

Catsup  of  mushrooms,  439 283 

double  ditto,  or  dog-sup 284 

of  walnuts,  438 * 282 

of  oysters.  441 285 

of  cockles,  442 ib. 

of  cucumbers,  399. 270 

pudding,  446 285 

Caper  sauce,  274 23r> 

mock,275 ib. 

Capon,  to  roast,  58 136 

Capillaire,  476 297 

Caramel,  to  boil  sugar  to,  (Ap.85.)  385 

Cauliflower,  125 162 

pickled  (App.  122.). . .  403 


INDEX. 


423 


Caudle,  572 

Cautions  to  carvers 

Cayenne,  how  to  make,  404 

essence  of,  405 

Celery  soup,  214 

sauce,  289, 290 

seed,  substitute   for  celery, 

note 


Chantilly  basket  (Ap.  51.)  .......... 

Cheap  soup,  229  ................... 

Cheese  and  toast,  538,*  539  ........ 

..     .«.  toasted,  540  ................ 

-  buttered  ditto,  541  ........... 

»  ••        pounded  or  potted,  542  ...... 

Cheesecakes  (Ap.  40.)  ............. 

-  lemon,  ditto  (Ap.41.) 

-  orange,  ditto  (Ap.  42.) 
--  almond,  ditto  (  Ap.  43.) 
Cherries,  dried  (  Ap.  95.)  ............ 

Chervil  sauce,  264  ................. 

Chili  vinegar,  405*  ............... 

-  wine,  408  .................... 

Chicken.    See  Fowl. 

--  pie(Ap.!6.)  .............. 

--  and  ham  patties  (Ap.  29.) 
ClJops,  mutton,  pork,  beef,  to  broil, 


to  fry,  85.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .   -  .  .  .  .  .  148 

-  tostew,490  ................  307 

--  relish  for,  423  ........  '  .......  278 

-  sauce  for,  356  ..............  255 

Cinnamon,  essence  of,  416  .........  276 

-  tincture  of,  416*  ........    ib. 

Claret,  best  wine  for  sauces,  &c  .  .  .  .    95 

Clarified  syrup,  475  ................  297 

Clarify  broth,  to,  252*  .............  227 

Clove  and  mace,  essence  of,  414  ----  276 

--  tincture  of,  415  ----    ib. 

Cockle  catchup,  442  ...............  285 

Cod,  boiled,  149  ......  ."  ............  172 

-  the  tail  filletted,  note  under  149    ib. 

-  —  slices  boiled,  151  ..............  174 

-  skull  stewed,  158  .............  177 

—  shaved,  and  sold  for  whitings, 

Obs.  to  153  ......................  175 

Cold  meat,  to  broil  with  poached 
eggs,  487  ........................  304 

-  —  ditto,  to  warm,  the  best  way.  .  .    54 

-  fish.!  ........  .  ...............    53 

..  sauce  for,  453.  359,  and  307 

287.  255.  243 

-  veal,  an  excellent  dish  of,  512.  .  319 

-  fowl,  ditto,  533  ...............  328 

Colouring  for  soup  and  sauce,  322.  .  246 

-  -  a  frequent  cause  of  adul- 

teration, 322  ....................  247 

Committee  of  taste  ................    17 

Consomme,  252  ...................  223 

Coffee,  to  make  ...................  340 

Cooks,  friendly  advice  to  ...........    46 

--  hintsto  ....................    53 

--  ditto,  when  they  have  a  very 

large  dinner  .....................    62 


Page 
Cooks,  cause  of  the  scarcity  of  good 

ones 310 

deserve  good  wages 23 

a   manor  given  to  one  by 

William  the  Conqueror 22 

Obs.  concerning  their  health, 

note 26 

Cook-teaser,  where  not  to  put  him    44 
Cooking  animals,  dine  only  once  a 

month,  note 17 

Cookery,  Descartes's  observations 

on 10 

SO 
ib. 
21 
vii. 
19 
vk'i. 
ib. 
x. 
20 
ib. 

ib. 
33 

22 
195 

94 
188 
211 


Dr.  Johnson's  ditto 

theory  of,  note..... 

importance  of. 

Dr.  Stark 

the  analeptic  part  of  physic 

Dr.  Mandeville 

Arbuthnot .' 

Parmentier 

Sylvester's  Obs.  on,  note. . 

best  books  on,  note 

theory  of  the  processes  of, 

from  the  Encyclopedia  Brit,  note 

opinion  of  a  cook  on  books 

of. 

Coquus  Magnus,  or  Master  Kitch- 
ener  

Coullis,  or  thickened  gravy,  189 — 

Coup  d'apris 

Crab,  to  boil,  177 

Crawfish  soup,  235 

ditto,  pounded  alive,  re- 


commended by  Mons.  Clermont, 
235 

Cream,  clouted,  388 

Cranberry  tart  ( Ap.  37.) 

Croquante  of  paste  (Ap.  86.) 

Cottage  potato  pudding  (Ap.  115.). .. 

Crisp  parsley,  318 

Currant  jelly,  479* 

Curry  powder,  455 

soup,  249 

sauce, 348 

balls,  382 

to  dress,  497 

Curagoa,  how  to  make,  474. , .  ... 

Custard  pudding , 

Cider  cup,  465 , 

Culinary  curiosities , 

Crane 

Curlews 

Catingely 

Corks 

Cement  for  sealing  bottle* 

Caw-caw  bones,  N.B.I. 

Cow  heel,  to  dress,  18*. 


vinegar,  397* 

Cucumber,  stewed,  135 

viuegar,399 

to  preserve  (Ap.  98.)  — 


Carp,  to  stew,  158.. 
Charity,  the  greatest. 


ib. 
267 
370 
385 
398 
24f> 
298 
287 
222 
254 
266 
311 
296 
347 
294 
32 
34 
ib. 
ib. 
100 
ib 
108 
122 
231 
269 
165 
270 
389 
IT, 
24 


424 

Crumpets  (Ap.  103.)- 


IXDEX. 


.31 


Devil,  538 

— —his  venison 

sauce  for 

biscuit,  574.. 

Damson  cheese  ( Ap.  89.) 

Digestion,  how  important 

Dripping  pan 

Dripping,  to  clarify,  83 

-  Mrs.  Blelroe  and  Dr.  Stark's 


Obs.  on,  83. . 
soup.  • 


Edge  bone  of  beef,  see  H-bone,  8. . .  113 

ways  of  spelling 114 

Education  of  a  cook's  tongue 52 

Eels,  stewed,  Wiggy's  way,  164 181 

pickled,  161 180 

fried,  165 182 

pie(Ap.22.) 366 

spitchocked,  166 182 

soup,  225 207 

Bags,  to  preserve  for  twelve  months, 

see  N. B.  to  547 338 

sauce,267 232 

fried  with  bacon,  545 336 

- — ragout,  545* 3H7 

with  minced  bacon,  549 339 

poached,  546 337 

ditto,  with  minced  ham,  548.. .  338 

boiled  in  the  shell,  517 ib. 

< ditto,  for  &  salad,  372 260 

various  ways  of  dressing  egg 

and  ham  patties  (Ap.  88.) 386 

Epictetus,  a  relish  for,  27 125 

Eschalot  sauce  294 239 

vinegar,  401 271 

wine,  402 ib. 

Essence  of  turtle,  343  . . ; 252 


Duck,  to  roast,  61 

bonne  bouche  for,  341 

to  hash,  530 

cold,  to  warm,  535 

wild,  to  roast,  74 

Dutch  salad,  Obs.  to  372 

Dinner,  seven  chances  against  its 
being  properly  dressed,  note 

hints  for  preparing  a  large,  p. 

62,  63 ;  a  good  one  for  5d.,  204.. .. 

invitation  to 

Importance  of  punctuality,  the 

only  act  which  cannot  be  post- 
poned  

arrangements  of  guests  at 

rules  for  behaviour  at,  from 

the  Accomplished  Lady's  Delight, 
note. 

— -  hints  for  providing 

Obs.  on  second  courses,  &c.. . 

punishment  for  not  being 

punctual  at 

Boileau's  Obs.  on 

Hints  to  those  who  dine  out. . 


Essence  of  Jiam,  351 2$4 

where  to  buy  it,  351 ib. 

of  mushrooms,  440 28.ri 

1 —  of  oysters,  441 ilv 

of  anchovy,  433 280 

of  Cayenne,  405 273 

lemon  peel,  407 ib. 

ditto,  408 274 

of  celery,  409 275 

• ginger,411 ib. 

allspice,  412 ib. 

clove,  414 2v6 

mace,4!4 ib. 

cinnamon,  416 . .    ib. 

marjoram,  417 277 

sweet  herbs,  417* ib. 

soup  herbs,  420 ib. 

eschalot,  402 271 

soup   herbs    and    savourv 

spice,  422. ".  277 

Epicure,  the  editor's  definition  of,. 

note .'    it 

the   temperate  man   the 

greatest 19 

Economy,  the  first  rule  of  comfort- 
able, note 61 

Fawn,  65 140 

Fennel  and  butter  for  mackerel,  265  231 
Fish,  see   the  6th  chapter  of  the 
Rudimetfts  of  Cookery 86 

—  cold,  to  redress 53 

—  fecundity  of,  note 86 

—  how  to  market  for 358 

—  to  stew,  158 177 

soups,  225 207 

forcemeat,  383 266 

sauce,  425 278 

to  pickle,  161 180 

Forcemeat,  to  make,  373 262 

materials  used  for 263 

for  veal,375 264 


for  turkey,  377. 

for  goose,  378 ilx 

for  hare,  379 ib. 

balls,  for  mock  turtle  and 

made  dishes,  380 ib; 

eggditto,38i 266 

curry  ditto,  382 ib. 

— : zest,  fee.  386 ib 

of  fish  for  maigre  dishes. 

383 ib. 

to  mix  orange  and  lemon 

peel.  387 ib. 

Flip,  466 294 

""founders,  155 175 

howls,  to. boil  one  half  and  roast  the 

other  at  the  same  time 33 

to  boil,  16 119 

——to  roast, 58 136 

—  to  broil,  97 154 

—  hashed,  533 328 

—  pulled,  534 ib, 

—  to  dress  cold,  535 32S- 


INDEX, 


425 


Fowls,  Apicius's  sauce  for 35 

French  beans,  133 164 

pickled  (Ap.  118.) ....  402 

tart  of  preserved  fruit  (Ap. 

35.) 370 

bread  and  rolls  (Ap.  100*).. .  390 

Froth  roast  meat,  to 78 

Frogges,  fried 34 

Fare,  bill  of,  for  a  week 56 

Frying 80 

Flavour,  agents  employed  to  soups 

and  sauces,  note  under 104 

Flounders,  fried  or  boiled,  155 175 

Fritters,  558 344 

Fruit,  to  preserve,  without  sugar 

(Ap.99.) 390 

Game,  to  render  immediately  ripe 

for  roasting 58 

soup,  242 216 

Garlic  vinegar,  400 270 

sauce,272 233 

gravy,311 244 

Giblets,  slewed,  531 328 

soup,  244 216 

pie(Ap.  14.) 363 

Gherkins  (Ap  117.) 402 

Gigot  de  Sept  Heur  s  N.  B.  to  1.. . .  108 

Ginger,  essence  of,  411 275 

preserved  (A p. 97.) 389 

Gingerbread  nuts  ( Ap. 76.) -3GZ 

Goose,  Dr.  Stark  says  is  the  most 

nutritive  food 138 

to  roast,  59 137 

ditto,alive 33 

to  persuade  one  to  roast  him- 
self!!     ib. 

how  the  liver  is  fattened  for 

the  Strasburg  pies.    In  note  to  59  137 

to  hash,  530 326 

green,60 138 

mock,51 131 

bonne  bouche  for,  341 251 

relish  for,  341 ib. 

Gourds,  various  ways  of  dressing. .  348 

GOURMAND  defined,  note 17 

Gourmandize,   to    guard    against, 

note 24 

Gooseberry  sauce,  263 231 

GRAVY,  read  the  8th  chapter  of  the 

Rudiments  of  Cookery  100 

for   poultry,   ragouts,  &c., 

329 ...?....: 249 

onion,  299 241 

garlic,311 244 

game,337 251 

for  wild  duck,  338 ib. 

roasted  meat,  326 248 

boiled,  327 249 

wow   wow   for   salted    or 

stewed  beef,  328 249 

for  grills  and  broils,  &c.,  355  254 

for  chops  and  steaks,  356. ..  255 

relish  for  chops  and  stea  ks,423  276 


DM* 

Gravy,  for  cold  meat  or  poultry,  &c., 
359  .............................  255 

-  hashes  of  mutton,  &c.,  360..  256 
--  ditto,  veal,  361  ..............  25? 

--  for  venison,  of  wine,  344....  253 

-  of  vinegar,  345  .............    ib. 

--  for  venison,  of  currant  jelly, 

346  .............  .  ..........  .....    ib, 

-  of  mutton,  347  ..............  ib. 

—  -  brown  colouring  for,  322  ----  246 

-  portable,  252  ............  ...  223 

-  soup,  200  ...................  198 

-  vegetable,  ditto,  224  .........  207 

Green  pease,  134  ..................  164 

--  soup,  216  ....................  203 

--  maigre,  ditto,  21  7  ............    ib. 

Green  gages,  preserved    in   syrup 

(Ap.  96.)  .......................  386 

Grill  sauce,  355  ...................  254 

Grouse,  73  ........................  144 

Gruel,  water,  various  ways  of 

making  and  flavouring,  572  .....  352 

Guinea  fowl,  69*  .................  143 

Glasse,  Mrs.,  her  Cookery  .........    20 

Gridiron  .........................  .  82 

Haddock,  157  .....................  176 

-  Findhorn,  ditto,  157*  .....    ib. 

Haggis,  a  good  Scotch,  488*.  .  ......  305 

Ham,  to  boil,  14  ...................  118. 


slices  of  broiled,  526  .........  324 

essence  of,  351..  ..........  ..  354 

where  to  buy,  ditto,  351  ......    ib. 

Hare,  roast.  66  ....................  140 

—  jugged,  529*  .................  325 

--  soup,  241  ....................  215 

--mock,  66*  ...................  14} 

—  hashed,  529  .................  325 

—  pie(Ap.ll.)  .................  362 

Haricot  of  mutton,  lamb,  veal,  or 

beef,  489  ...............  .........  306 

—  bfbeef,495  ..................  310 

Hashes,  mutton,  484  ...............  303 

—  towarmup,485  ............  304 

—  beef,486  ...................    ib. 

—  veal,  511  ...............  ;...  318 

—  venison,  528.  ...............  325 

—  cold  calfe  head,  519  ........  321 

—  ditto,  10  ...........  .........  114 

--  calf  s  head  or  ragout,  520.  ..  321 

—  hare,529  ...................  325 

—  duck  or  goose,  53ft.  .........  326 

—  poultry,  game,  or  rabbit,  533  328 

—  sauce  for,  360  .............  256 

Haunch  (see  H.)  bone  of  beef,  8.  ...  lp 

Herbs,  when,  and  how  to  dry,  461.  .  290 
Herrings,  pickled,  171  .............  185 

-  broiled,  171*  .............    ib. 

-  -  red  ditto,  172  .............  186 

Horseradish  powder,  458*  .........  289 

---  vinegar,  399*  ..........  270 

Housekeeping,  plan  of.  ............    27 

--  book  ......  ..  .......    ib. 


426 


INDEX. 


Horse  powdered 34 

Hill,  Dr.,  author  of  Mrs.  Glasse'a 

Cookery 20 

Hanger,  Col.,  quoted,  his  hints  for 

guarding  against  "la  Gourman- 

dize,"  note 23 

Hudson,  the  dwarf,  served  up  in  a 

pie 34 

Icing  for  fruit  tarts,  &c.  (Ap. 31.). ..  369 

for  twelfth  cake  ( Ap.  84.) 384 

Indigestion 38 

lozenges  for,  note ib. 

remedyfor 39 

Invitations,  how  to  send 41 

toanswer ib. 

Indian  or  mixed  pickle  (Ap.  123.). .  404 

Independence,  the  road  to 64 

Italian  salad,  see  Obs.  to  372 260 

cream  (Ap.  48.) . .. . . 374 

macaroons  ( Ap.  70.) »  380 

Irish  stew,  Mrs.  Phillips's,  488 305 

ditto,  Mr.  Morrison's,  488 ib, 

Jack,  to  dress,  158. 177 

Jacks,  Obs.on 74 

Jelly,  ox  heel,  198 197 

calf  s  feet,  481 299 

of  currants  and  other  fruits, 

479* 298 

Jerusalem  artiohokce,  117 100 

Jockey,  how  to  waste 190 

JOHNSON'S  brandy  and  liqueurs,  471  29tt 
JOHNSON,  Dr.,  quoted 20 

KAY,  Mr.,  of  Albion  House,  wines, 

&c.,  Obs.  to  94 243 

KELLY'S  sauce  for  calf  head  or  cow 

heel,311* 244 

..  ditto,  for  sauce  piguante. 

311* ib. 

Kid,  to  roast,  65* 140 

Kidneys,  to  broil,  95 153 

Kitchen  maid,  business  of  a 25 

Kitchen  fire  place,  best  ornaments 

for 64 

chimney  should  be  swept 

often 54 

utensils 89 

Kitchiner,  Dr.,  quoted,  note,  572. ..  30 

LIFE,  THE   ART   OF    INVIGORATING 

AND  PROLONGING Vii. 

Laeedsemon ,  black  broth  of 35 

dittosauce ib. 

Lamb,  to  broil,  3 109 

~ toroast,40 129 

sham  lamb,  ditto,  40 ib. 

——— hind  quarter,  41 ib. 

'     '       fore  quarter,  42 130 

leg,  43 ib. 

shoulder,44 ib. 

— —  to  goosify,  ditto,  note  to  51. .  131 
-ribs,  45.... 130 


Lamb,  loin, 46 <..., 

neck, 47 

breast,  48 

chops,  93 

shoulder,  grilled,  491. 

lamb's  fry,  492 

Larders,  proper,  note 

Larks,  80.. 


Lemon  chips  (Ap.  94.) 

syrup,  391 

sauce,  273 

juice,  artificial,  407* 

Lemon  and  liver  sauce,  287 

peel  essence,  407 

quintessence  ditto,  408; 

tincture  ditto,  408* 

Lemonade  in  a  minute,  477 

Liquamen  of  the  Romans 

Liqueurs,  471 

Lister,  Mrs.,  leg  of  beef  soup.    See 

shin  of  beef  soup. 
Liver  of  a  goose.    See  note  under  59 

and  parsley  sauce,  287 

ditto  for  fish,  28S 

Lobster,  to  roast,  82 

to  boil,  176 

sauce,  284 

sauce  for  lobster,  285 

soup,  237 

potted,178 

patties  (Ap.  ST/.l 

salad,  372 

spawn,  to  preserve,  N.B. 


ib. 

ib. 
150 
307 

308 
57 
146 
387 
267 
233 
274 
237 
273 
274 
ib. 
297 
35 
296 


237 

m 

14G 
18". 
236 
237 
211 
1S& 


to  284 
Lozenges 


Macaroni,  543.. 332 

soup,  see  Obs.  to  200 198 

Mackerel,  boiled,  167 183 

broiled,  169 184 

baked,  170 ib. 

pickled,  171 185 

roesauce,266 231 

Made  dishes,  Obs.  on.  See  9th 

chapter  of  Rudiments  of  Cookery  106 

economical  ditto,  483  300 

Magazine  of  Taste 292 

Maigre  forcemeat,  383 266 

plum  pudding,  554 342 

Mandeville,  Dr.,  quoted,  Preface. ..  viii. 
Manners,  the  importance  of  good. .  42 

Marjoram,  essence  of,  417 277 

Marrow  bones,  544 336 

Meat,  soup  from  any,  boiled 69 

Melroe,  Mrs.,  her  Econom.  Cookery, 

quoted,  note  to  83 147 

Melted  butter 228 

Minced  collops 306 

Mince  pies  (Ap.38.) 371 

meat(Ap.39.) 372 

Mint  sauce,  303. 242 

-  vinegar,  398 270 

Mock  turtle  soup,  247 219 

—  ditto,  do.  by  E.  Lister,  245. ...  218 


INDEX. 


427 


Millfcfeumes  ( Ap.  44.) 37$ 

Mofrgame.72 144 

Morels,  Obs.  on " 

Mulled  wine,  aromatic,  essence  for, 

412 275 

Mustard,  to  make,  370 259 

to  make  in  a  minute,  369. .    ib. 

• ditto,  to  keep,  427 278 

seed  oil 404 

Manners,  barbarous,  of  the  sixteenth 

century 

good  effects  of  good 42 

bad  effects  of  bad 43 

Measures,  glass  ones 31 

Meat,  how  long  it  must  hang  to  be 

tender 57 

-, —  if  frozen , ib. 

killing  it  by  electricity  makes  it 

tender  hnmediately 58 

Marketing 61 

bestrulefor ib. 

— ditto 56 

MARKETING  TABLES,  for  meat 355 

poultry 357 

vegetables. . .  359 

Meatskreen 77 

Meat  cakes,  504* 316 

Mutton,  to  boil  a  leg.  1 108 

neck,  2 109 

Mutton,  23 124 

roast,  a  leg,  24 125 

ditto,  saddle,  26 ib. 

shoulder,  27 ib. 

loin,  28 ib. 

neck,  29 126 

breast,  30 ib. 

haunch,  31 ib. 

ditto,  venison  fashion,  32 ....    ib. 

or  veal  pie  (Ap.  10.) 362 

chops,92 150 

ditto,  stewed,  490 307 

broth,  194. 564 196.350 

mock,  195 197 

to  hash,  484 303 

haricot,  489 306 

mullaga-tawny  soup,  249..  •  •  222 

Mushroom  sauce,  305 242 

ditto,  brown,  306 243 

extempore,  307 ib. 

catchup,  439 283 

quintessence  of,  440 285 


Marrow  bones,  544. 

vegetable. 

Muffins  (Ap.  102.).. 


348 


Nutmeg,  tincture  of,  413* 276 

grater,  the  best 65 

Omelettes,  643* 333 

Onion,  Obs.  on,  note 92 

pickled  (Ap.  121) 403 

stewed,  137..... 166 

young,  sauce,  296 240 

• sauce,397 ib. 


Onion  sauce,  white,  298 240 

brown,  299 241 

sageand,300 ib. 

Orange  jelly  (Ap.  47.) 373 

gingerbread  ( Ap.  75.) 382 

Orgeat  (Ap.  81.) 383 

Ox  cheek,  stewed,  507 317 

portable  soup  of,  252 224 

Ox  tails,  stewed,  508 318 

Ox  head  soup,  239 213 

Ox  tail  soup,  240 214 

Ox  heel  jelly ,  198 197 

soup,  240* 214 

Oysters,  how  to  feed  and  preserve 
their  lives,  and  how  to  tickle  them 

to  death,  181 189 

certainly  not  so  nutritive 

as  supposed,  N.B.  to  181 190 

native,  those  that  are  born 


and  bred  in  the  Burnham  rivers, 

note  to  181.... 189 

essenceof,441 285 

scalloped,  182 191 

stewed,  182* 192 

fried,183 ib. 

sauce,278 234 

preserved  in  powder,  280..  234 

patties  (Ap.  26.) 368 

Osborne,  H.  Cook  to  Sir  J.  Banks    xi.  52 
ditto,  bis  receipts  for  pud- 
dings, &c.,  560 345 

Oatmeal,   a    substitute  for  bread 
crumbs,  note S3 

Pancakes,  558 344 

Paregoric  elixir,  570 352 

Pharmacopoeia,  Appendix  to x, 

Parmentier,  quoted,  Preface ib. 

Parsley  and  butter,  261 230 

to  preserve,  N.B.  to  261 331 

fried,  317 245 

crisp,  318 246 

Partridges,  70 143 

soup,  241 215 


Paste  for  croquants,  or  cut  pastry 

(Ap.a).... ! ......361 

for  meat  or  savoury  pies  (A  p.  2.)  360 

for  boiled  puddings  (Ap.  6.). . .  361 

for  stringing  tartlets,  &c.(  Ap.  7.)   ib. 

Pease,  to  boil,  134 164 

pudding,  555 343 

how  to  make  for  half 

the  usual  expense,  note  to  555 ....    ib. 

—  soups,  218.  220 203.205 

—  ditto,  in  five  minutes,  Obs.  to 
555 343 

—  curry  pease  soup,  note  to  218  205 

—  celery  ditto,  ditto,  218 204 

—  plain  pease  soup,  221 206 

?arsnips,128 163 

Peristaltic  persuaders 39 

Peptic  Precepts,  quoted ib. 

Pease  powder,  458 289 

Perch,  fried,  159 179 


428 


INDEX, 


Perch,  boiled,  160... 
stewed,  158. 


mock  ditto,  69 

criterion  of  its  being  "  assez 

mort(JUe,"  Obs.  on  68 

PICKLES,  Obs.  on 

— — pounded 

wholesome  substitute  for, 

398, 

Pigeons,  roast,  78. 

to  broil,  98 

or  lark  pie  (Ap.  13.) 

Pig,  sucking,  56 

Pettitoes  or  sucking  pig's  feet,  12. . . 

Piquante  vinegar,  453 

Plaice,  fried,  155 

Plain  pound  cake  ( Ap.  57.) 

Plum  pudding,  553 

Plum  pudding  sauce,  269. . . . 

Plum  pound  cake  (Ap.  58.) 

Poached  eggs,  546 

Poor  man's  sauce,  310 

Poor,  soup  for,  229 

Papin,  Dr.,  his  Digester,  note 

Pork,  the  season  for  it,  and  the  ac- 
companiments, &c.,  49 

—  to  roast  a  leg,  50 

to  boil  ditto,  11 

to  roast  without  me  skin  on.  51 

mock  goose,  51 

— —  to  lambify  the  leg  of  a  porkling, 

see  note  to  51 

griskin,52 

—  sparerib,  53 

loin,  54 

chine,  55 

to  Halt,  6 • 

to  boil,  pickled,  11 

how  to  score  after  you  have 

boiled  it,  11 

chops,  to  fry,  93 

sausages,  87 

Poivrade  sauce,  365 

Portable  soup,  252. 

Pot  top,  best  fat  for  frying,  Obs.  to  83 

liquor 

to  convert  into  pease  soup  in 

five  minutes,  N.B.  to  555 

Potatoes,  16  ways  of  dressing,  102. . 

to  redress  cold,  102* 

boiled  and  broiled,  103 — 

fried  in  slices,  104 

fried  whole,  105 

mashed,  106 

ditto,  with  onion,  107 

escalloped,  108 

• roasted,  109 

under  meat,  110 

balls,  111 

savoury,  112 

snow,  114 

gipsy  pie,  115 

»~ — —  new,  116 > 


Potatoes,  mucilage  or  starch,  443. . . 

flour ..... 

colcannon,  108* 


Potted  beef,  veal,  game,  &c.,  503.  • . 

•  veal,  game,  &c.,  why  in 

season  at  the  same  time  as  mock 
tunle,  note  under  247 

Potted  ham,  &c.,  509 

Prawns,  175 

Poultry,  to  render  immediately  ripe 
for  roasting 

marketing  tables  for 

Pudding,  my,  554 

plum,  553 

ditto,  do.  sauce  for,  269 — 

suet,  551 

Yorkshire,  552 

pease,  555 

macaroni,  543 

batter 

bread  and  butter,  boiled  and 


ib. 
15V 
314 


baked, 557 

Boston  apple. 
fruit 


spring  frui 

Notiinehai 


—  Nottingham 

—  Newmarket 

—  Newcastle  or  cabinet 

—  Vermicelli 

—  bread 

—  custard 

—  boiled  ditto 

—  college  i  Ap.  105.) 

—  rice,  bfeked  or  boiled 

—  ground ». 

aive-all  (Ap.  110.) 


219 
31* 

187 

58 
357 
341 

ib. 
2;{i.> 
340 
341 
343 
332 
346 

344 
345 

ib. 

ib. 
346 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 
34? 

ib. 
395 

ib. 

ib. 
396 


Puddings  and  pies,  Obs.  on 

Pudding  catchup,  446 

Puff  paste  f  Ap.  1.) 

Pulled  turkey,  chicken,  &c.,  534.. . . 

Punch,  directly,  478 

essence  of,  to  make,  479 

Purser  s<  invent  les  Cuisiniers  (de  la 

necessity 

Pig's  pettitoes,  12 

Politeness,  ancient  rules  for,  note.. . 

Porpus 

Pie,  Jeffery  Hudson  served  up  in  one 

Provisions,  how  to  procure  the  best, 

61. 

Pepper,  Obs.  on 

double  headed  boxes 


Queen's  drops  ( Ap.  62.) 378 

Quin's  sauce,  425 278 

ditto,  Obs.  on  Ann  Chovy's 

marriage, in  note  to 433 281 

Rabbit,  roast,  67 142 

boiled,  17 121 

broiled,97 154 

soup,241 215 

pie(Ap.!7.) 365 

aWelch,539 330 

Ragout  beef,  see  Obs.  to  493 3CK> 


ib, 

26 
11T 

2* 

m 
M 

357 

or; 


420 


Ragoflt  sauce,  329 

savoury  powder,  457 

quintessence  of  ditto,  460. . . 

of  poultry,  to  dress,  530* 

breast  of  veal,  517 

, raised  pies  ( Ap.  5.) 

French  pies  ( Ap.  18.) 

ham  pie  (Ap.19.) 

pork  pie  (Ap.  21.) 

lamb  pie  (Ap.  23.) 

Raspberry  vinegar,  390 

wine  or  brandy,  469 

•jam(Ap.92.). 


Red  cabbage,  pickled  (Ap.  120.)  .... 

Rhubarb,  various  ways  of  dressing 
Rice  blancmange  (A  p.  109.)  ........ 

-  pudding  (Ap.  106.) 


ground  pudding  (  Ap.  107.)  ..... 
sauce,  321*  ................  ... 

-  snowballs  (Ap.  108.)  .......... 

Ripe  fruit  tarts  (Ap.  30.)  ........... 

ROASTING,  see  trie  2d  chapter  of 

Rudiments  of  Cookery  .......... 

Robert  sauce  for  pork  and  geese, 

342  .............  ..  ........  ...... 

Roe  boat  ditto,  see  Obs.  to  342  ...... 

Rouge,  see  note  to  433  ............. 

Roux,  see  Obs.  to  257  .............. 

Rump  steak,  broiled,  94  ............ 

-  stewed,  500  .......... 

---  do.  with  onion  gravy, 

501  ............................. 

-  :  --  pie(Ap.  15.)  ......... 

Romans  ate  five  meals  a  day  ....... 

-  their  favourite  dishes  ...... 

--  liquamen  and  garum  ...... 


Sack  posset,  Sir  F.  Shepherd's,  467*  295 
Sage  and  onion  sauce,  300  .........  241 

Sally  Lunn  tea  cakes  (  Ap.  101.)  ----  390 

Salt,  to  prepare  for  table,  371  ......  260 

Salt  fish,  150  ......................  173 

Salting  meat,  6  ....................  Ill 

-  to  make  it  red,  6  ............    ib. 

-  to  make  it  savoury,  6  .......  112 

-  to  pickle  meat  ..............    ib. 

Sandwiches,  504  ..................  316 

Save-all  pudding  (  Ap.  110.)  ........  396 

SCOTCH  haggis,  488*  ...............  305 

-  collops,  517  ...............  321 

--  ditto,minced  ..............  306 

-  gravy,  see  Obs.  to  326  ......  248 

.  -  brose,205*  ................  201 

-  barley  broth,  204  ..........  199 

--  beef,  note  .................  123 

---  soups,  205  .................  200 

-  winter  hotch  potch,  205.  ...    ib. 
---  leek  soup,  or  cocky  leeky, 

205  ...........  ..  ........  ..  ......  201 

---  lamb  stew,  205  ............    ib. 

Salads,  Evelyn's  directions  about, 

138and372  .................  166.260 

---  Dutch,  French,  Italian,  &c., 

Obe.  to  372  .....................  261 


Salad  sauce,  372  and  453 360. 287 

Salmon,  pickled,  161 180 

boiled,162 ib. 

broiled,  163 181 

SAUCE,  before  you  make,  read  the 
8th  chapter  of  the  Rudiments  of 

Cookery , 100 

anchovy,  270 • 232 

apple,  304 242 

basil  vinegar  or  wine,  397. .  269 

balls  for  mock  turtle,  380. ...  265 

bechamel,  364 257 

bottled  oyster,  278 234 

beef    gravy,     for    poultry. 


341. 


bonne  bouche  for  a  goose, 


bread,  321 

browning,  322 

butter,  melted,  256. . . . 

burnt,  ditto,  260 

clarified,  ditto,  259.. .. 

oiled,  ditto,  260* 

to  recover,  N.B.  to  256 — 1: 

catchup  of  mushrooms, 

of  walnuts,  438." 

of  cockles,  &c.,  442 

for  puddings,  446 

camp  vinegar,  403 

caper,  274 

celery,  289 

ditto,  brown,  290 

chervil,  364 

Chili  vinegar,  405 

crisp  parsley,  318 

cucumber,  135 

curry,  348 

egg,  267 

essence  of  turtle,  343* 

of  ham,  351. 

of  mushrooms,  440. . 

of  oysters,  441. 

of  Cayenne,  405 

of  anchovy,  433 

of  lemon  peel,  407. . . 

quintessence  of  ditto,  408. . 

of    celery, 


251 
246 
ib. 


ib, 
ib, 


•  of  ginger,  411 

of  allspice,  412 

- of  clove,  >414 

of  mace,  \ 

of  cinnamon,  416.. . . 

— —  of  soup  herbs,  420.. . 

of  soup  herb  and  sa- 
voury spice,  422 

of  eschalot,  402 

of  punch,  479 


eschalot,  294 

ditto,  vinegar,  40f 

fennel  and  butter  for  macke- 
rel, &c.,265 

fiah,425 

forcemeat,  to  make,  373 


ib. 
271 


ib. 
231 
273 
345 
165 
254 


254 
285 

ib. 
273 
280 
274 

ib. 

275 
ib. 
ib. 

276 

ib. 

277 

ib. 
271 


271 

233 
27S 


430 


INDEX. 


Sauce,  forcemeat  balls  for  mock  tur- 
tle, 380 

egg  balls,  381 

-— —  curry  ditto,  382 

..I.      fish  forcemeat,  383 

. zest  ditto,  386 

for  veal,  375 

. to  mix  orange  or  lemon  peel, 

387 

- gravy  for  poultry,  ragouts, 

&c.,  329 

ditto  for  game,  337 

ditto  for  wild  duck,  338 

ditto  of  onion,  299 

ditto  of  garlic,  311 

ditto  for  roasted  meat,  326.. . 

ditto  for  boiled  ditto,  327  — 

— wow  wow,  for  boiled  beef, 

328 

-•••••  '     wine,  see  venison,  344 

• vinegar  for  venison,  345 

— - —  mutton 

for  grills,  355 

for  chops  and  steaks,  356.  ... 

>•         for  cold  meat  or  poultry,  359 

for  hashes  of  mutton,  &c., 

360 

for  ditto  of  veal,  361 

relish  for  chops,  423 

— —  gooseberry,  263 

. garlic,  272 

ditto  gravy,  311 

—         ditto  vinegar,  400 

• M.  Kelly's,  for  calPs  head  or 

cow  heel,  311* 

ditto,  ditto,  piquante,  311*. . 

lemon,  syrup  of,  391 

lemonade  in  a  minute,  477. . 

— lemon,  273 

ditto,  and  liver,  or  parsley 

and  liver  sauce,  287 

liver,  for  fish,  288 

lobster,  284 

for  lobster,  285 

mackerel  roe,  266 

——green  mint,  303 

vinegar,  398 

'  mushroom,  305 

ditto,  brown,  306 

ditto,  in  five  minutes,  307. . . 

mustard,  to  make,  370 

ditto,  in  a  minute,  369 

ditto,  to  keep,  427 

oyster,  278 

bottled,  ditto,  280 

onion,  297 

ditto,  white,  for  rabbits,  &c. 

•  young  onion,  296 

fried,  or  brown  onion,  299. . 

sage  and  onion,  300 

ox  heel  jelly,  198 

parsley  and  butter,  261 

„_  ditto,  fried,  317 


Page 

265 

266 
ib. 
ib. 
ib. 

264 

266 

249 
251 
ib. 
241 

244 

248 
249 

ib. 
253 

ib. 

ib. 
254 
255 

ib. 

256 
257 
278 
231 
233 
244 
270 

244 
ib. 
267 
.297 
233 


Sauce,  ditto,  crisp,  313 « . , .  245 

pease  powder,  458 289 

pickles,  462 292 

piquante  vinegar,  453 287 

plum  pudding,  269 232 

poivrade,365 259 

poor  man's,  310 24» 

potato  mucilage,  448 28G 

ragout  sauce,  329 249 

ragout  powder,  457 28? 

quintessence  of  ragout  pow- 
der, 460 290 

rice,321* 246 

salad  mixture,  372 260 

salad,453 287 

superlative,  429 278 

box,  462 59.  292 


Savoy  biscuits  ( Ap.  69.) 380 

Savoys,  120 160 

Savoury  salt  beef,  496 310 

Savoury  pies,  pasties,  &c.  (Ap.  12.).  363 
Soup  herb  powder,  or  vegetable  re- 
lish, 459 289 

Shrimps,  potted,  175 187 

Shrimp  sauce,  283 235 

Shrub,  479 298 

Small  puffs  of  preserved  fruit,  (Ap. 

36.) 370 

Snipes,  77 144 

Soda  water,  Obs.  on,  note 38 

Sorrel  sauce,  291 238 

Sponge  biscuits,  (Ap.  66.) 379 

Sprouts,  121 160 

Sparerib  of  bacon,  to  roast,  53 132 

Spices,  Obs.  on,  429 279 

Soup  herb  and  savoury  powder,  460  290 

spirit,  420, 421, 422 277 

Spinnage,  122 160 

Stock,  first,  note  to  185 193 

second,  note  to  185 194 

Stuffing,  373 262 

forhare,379 265 

— : for  goose,  378 ib 

for  turkey,  377 ib 

forveal,374 264 

Suet  pudding,  551 340 

Syrup,  clarified,  475 297 

of  lemon  peel,  393 268 

of  lemon,  391 267 

of  orange,  392 268 


Stomach,  an  Englishman's  cooking 
kettle,  Dr.  Hunter's  Obs.  on ;  Wa- 

terhouse's  ditto,  note 15 

the  machinery  of  life 10 

Dr.  Cheyne's  Obs.  on ;  Aber- 

nethy's  ditto 20 

Stomachic  tincture,  569 352 

Spectacles  for  Gourmands,  note 23 

Spring  fruit,various  ways  of  dressing  347 

Sprats,  to  broil,  170* 185 

to  pickle,  171 185 

to  stew,  170** ib. 

to  fry,  173 187 

Servants.  Rev.  Wai.  Watkins'  excel 


INDEX. 


431 


Page 

lent  institution  for  the  encourage- 
ment of. • 25 

Servants,  friendly  advice  to 46 

«! maxims  for 49 

Swan 33 

Seals 34 

Skate,  148 172 

Soups,  under  the  name  of  the  article 
they  are  made  of. 

Soup,  Obs.  on 89 

cheap 91 

and  bouilli,238 212 

Steaks,  85,94 148.  151 

Stew  pan 89 

Suet,  to  clarify  for  frying,  &c.  84. . .  147 

puddings 393 

Sausages,  to  fry,  87 148 

,'Sweetbread,  to  fry,  88 149 

do.  plain,89 .-   ib. 

Sweet,  or  short  and  crisp  tart  paste 

(Ap.  4.) 360 

Seakale,124 162 

Soles,  to  boil,  144 169 

tofry,145 ib. 

to    stew,     146,     158,     164 

171. 177.  181 

filleted,  147 171 

Skate,  fried,  154 175 

Sturgeon,  152 174 

Tartpaste(Ap  3.) 360 

Tartlets  (Ap.34.) 370 

Taste,  the  Committee  of,  Preface. . .    xi. 

the  Magazine  of,  462. . .  .63.  292 

varieties  of 51 

Tastes,  six  simple,  note 53 

Tamis,  note  to,  189 195 

Tankard,  cool,  464 294 

Tarragon  sauce,  264 232 

vinegar,  396 268 

Tea,  to  make,  550 339 

Tender,  to  make  meat 58 

Tewahdiddle,  467 294 

Thickening,  or  roux,  257 229 

ditto 98 

Toast  and  water,  463 293 

and  cheese,  539 330 

Toasted  cheese,  540 331 

Tomato  sauce,  292 239 

mock  ditto,  293 ib. 

Tongue  to  boil,  15 119 

what  the  roots  are  good  for, 

Obs.tol5 ib. 

Toothache,  cure  for,  567 351 

Tripe,  18 121 

Trifle  (Ap.  49.) 374 

Truffles,  Obs.  on 95 

Turbot,  to  boil,  140 167 

Turkey,  to  boil,  16 119 

to  fatten  and  whiten,  16 ib. 

roast,  57 134 

hash,  &c.  533 328 

pulled,534 ib. 

Turnips,  130 163 

to  mash,  131 164 


Turnip-tops,  132 -..,.... 

soup,  213 

Turtle,  to  dress, 250 

mock  ditto,  247,  &c 

Birch  s  ditto,  excellent  note  to 


247. 


•  mock  mock,  ditto, "245 

•English,  248 

sauce,  343 

essence,  343* 

hints  to  turtle  eaters,  Obs.  to 


319 


ib. 

218 


ib. 


2500  pounds  of,  eaten  at  one 

dinner,  note  to  250 223 

Twelfth  cake  (Ap.  55.) 376 

Vauxhall  nectar,  to  imitate,  480 —  299 

Veal,  to  boil,  4 109 

to  roast,  33 127 


-loin,  35 128 

-  shoulder,  36 ib 

neck,  best  end,  37 ib. 

breast,38 ib. 

eweetbread,39 ib. 

cutlet,  90 149 

ditto,  sauce  for,  90 ib. 

ditto,  full  dressed,  521 322 

broth,  191 195 

-  gravy,  192 ib. 

knuckle  soup,  193 196 

stuffing,  Roger  Fowler's,  374. .  264 

-  forcemeat,  375 ib. 

breast,  stewed,  515 319 

minced,  511* 318 

hashed,  511 ib. 

sauce  for,  361 257 

excellent  hot  ragout  of  cold 

veal,  512 319 

potted,  503 314 

-  breast  ragout,  517 319 

ditto,  with  pease,  note  to  517. .  320 

-  olives,  518 321 

cutlets,  broiled,  521 322 

knuckle,  to  ragout,  522 323 

withrice,523 ib. 

-  Gay's  receipt,  ditto,  524 ib. 

and  ham  patties  ( Ap.  28.) 368 

pie(Ap.20.) 366 

Vegetables,  Obs.  on.  See  the  5th 
chapter  of  the  Rudiments  of 
Cookery 83 

Vegetable  essences,  to  extract,  417.*  277 

marrow 348 

marketing  tables  for 359 

Venison,  to  roast  a  haunch,  63 139 

neck  or  shoulder,  64 140 

tohash,528 325 

to  vensonify  mutton,  32. ..  126 

the  Devil's 33 

wine  sauce  for,  344 253 

sharp  ditto  for,  345 ib. 

sweet  ditto,  346 ib. 

mutton  gravy,  347 ib. 


432 


INDEX. 


Venison,  pasty  (Ap. ».)••  •  <• 362 

Vinegar  sauce  for  venison,  345 253 

burnet  or  cucumber,  399. .  270 

basil,397 269 

cress,  397* ib. 

garlic,  400 270 

horseradish,  399* ib. 

eschalot,  401 271 

camp,403 ib. 

piquante,453 287 

for  salads,  395 268 

tarragon,396 ib. 

raspberry,390 267 

sweet  and  savoury  herbs, 

spices,  &c.,  Obs.  to  396 269 

••  green  mint,  398 270 

pyroligneous,  Obs.  on  397*  269 

Vol  au  vent  (Ap.25.) 367 

Walnuts,  to  pickle  ( Ap.  1 16.) 401 

Walnut  catchup,  438 282 

Water  gruel,  immediately,  572 352 

various  relishes  for,  572 i  b. 

Water  souchy,  156 , .  175 


Watkins,  the  Rev.  G^  his  hints  to 
heads  of  families  ................ 

Welsh  rabbit,  539  ................. 

Wheatears,  81  .................... 

White  sauce,  364,  365  ............. 

-  wine  whey,  566  ............ 

Whitings,  fried,  153  ................ 

Whip  syllabub  (  Ap.  50.)  ........... 

Widgeons  and  teal,  75  ............. 

Wildducks,74  .................... 

Wine  sauce  for  venison,  &c.,  344.  .. 
--  eschalot,  402-  ............... 

Woodcock,  76  .................... 

-  has  the  same   honours 
paid  to  it  as  the  Grand  Lama, 
note  to  76  ....................... 

Wow  wow  sauce  for  boiled  beef, 
328  ............................. 

Weights  artd  measures  for  cookery, 
table  of.  .  .  ...................... 

Weight,  the  diminution  that  takes 
place  in  cooking  ................ 


Yorkshire  pudding,  552  ............  341 


258 
351 
174 
375 
144 
ib. 
253 
271 
144 


ib. 

249 

64 

70 


JTHE  END 


YB   15171 


